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NORTHERN INDIA INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY LUDHIANA

INTERNSHIP REPORT

INTERNSHIP DONE AT MALWA INDUSTRIES LTD. LUDHIANA JUNE-JULY 2011

SUBMITTED BY: - ARBIND KUMAR LOVEJEET

FASHION DESIGN 2009-2012

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I would like to thank Mr.Vishav Bandhu, Centre incharge NIIFT Ludhiana for providing us with this opportunity. Ms. Deepti Sharma, course co-ordinator Fashion Design Department NIIFT Ludhiana for all the encouragement and support.

I would like to thank Mr. Tanveer [H.R] for allowing us to undergo this internship at MALWA INDUSTRIES LTD. (LUDHIANA). I would also like to thank Mr. Deepak [I.E.D] for his guidance and support throughout this internship project at MALWA INDUSTRIES LTD.

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PREFACE

My summer training started on 8th JUNE, 2011 in MALWA INDUSTRIES LIMITED, LUDHIANA. I was assigned all department team for brand Levis and Topshop to work with. During my Internship Project, I completed three phases of my project, which are: 1) First

Stage:

Department: Production Mentor: Mr. Tanveer Topic: Production divided into show many category likecutting, stitching, Washing, finishing, etc. 2) Second

Stage:

Department: Design Mentor: Pritha Sood Topic: Designer explores new design for Buyer.

3) Third

stage:

Department: Product Merchandising Mentor: Mr. Yatish Topic: Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed, executed and presented to the Buyer.

CONTENTS

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1 COMPANY PROFIL 2 FABRIC STORE 3 DESIGNE SECTION 4 SAMPLE DEPARTMENT 5 CUTTING DEPARTMENT 6 CAD DEPARTMENT 7 STITCHING DEPARTMENT 8 WASHING DEPARTMENT 9 FINISHING DEPARTMENT 10 QUALITY MANAGEMENT 11 HUMAN RESORCE DEPARTMENT (H.R.D) 12 MARCHANDISING DEPARMENT

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COMPANY PROFILE

Company Name Business Types Owner Product/Service : :

Malwa Industries Limited Manufacturer Mr. Rishi Oswal

Denim Fabric in All Range, Denim Jean 1997 Malwa Denim Above 1000 people 2.5million pieces annually

Year of Establishment : Brands :

Number of Employees : Production Capacity Annual Turnover Address : : :

Machhiwara, Ludhiana, Punjab http://www.malwagroup.com

Company Website URL:

ABOUT MALWA

HISTORY

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In 1997, Mr. Rishi Oswal, the scion of the Oswal family and the Managing Director of Malwa Industries Limited started the denim manufacturing facility in response to the increased market demand for Jeans in the 1990's. Commercial operations started in FY97-98 and since then the company has been growing at a fast pace. MANUFACTURE MIL achieves a current production capacity of 20 million meters of denim fabrics & 4.50 million pairs of Jeans annually. The facility brings to Malwa's fold, prized knowledge of emerging fashion trends in denim making MIL a trendsetter by virtue of this knowledge. This facility also adds 2.5million pieces annually in capacities to Malwa's denim stable.

DESIGN AND PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

Our core strength is being Product Development & Design inputs supported by in- house studio .our success products are exported to over 40countries worldwide where these are sold under some of the biggest denim brands & designer labels that come to mind. Malwa has today, become synonymous with superlative quality & product excellence. In recognition of its excellent track record in Exports, it has been honoured with Export Performance Awards by the Govt. of India in recent years. The Spring / Summer 2012 collection is a unique blend of sophisticated and raw looks created through an intriguing play of Colors, Weaves, Yarns & Fibers. With real time knowledge of the latest trends, finishes & looks in denimwear from its Italian operation, Malwa has crafted the most exquisite collection of fabrics & garments that promises to leave you spellbound).

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MALWA COTTON SPINNING MILLS LTD. (MCSM)

Malwa Cotton Spinning Mills Ltd or MCSM is among the top ten textile mills in the Indian sub-continent. The Mills are situated amidst the rich cotton growing belts of India namely Punjab and Himachal Pradesh in Northern India. The total spindleage of both the units is around 140000. The mills are equipped with hi-tech state-of-the-art machineries from worldrenowned textile machinery manufacturers like Rieter, Trutszler, Crossrol, Schlafhorst and Savio. All the above process machines are also equipped with latest on-line quality control equipments combined with computerized information system. World wide recognized & accepted high-reliability Uster quality control equipments form the core of our R&D and constant monitoring quality control department. Malwa yarn is well sought after by domestic & international markets. An evergrowing demand for our products in the global markets is evident from our expanding export base. Malwa yarn conforms to the most stringent International Quality standards in production. We procure the best quality acrylic fiber from world-renowned manufacturers and produce Acrylic cotton yarn & high bulk Acrylic yarn. Dye house facility at our Works enables us to produce dyed yarn of exact shades. We also produce polyester yarn, polyester cotton yarn, viscose yarn, dyed viscose yarn and viscose cotton yarn. Raw materials like polyester& viscose too are procured only from reputed manufacturers.

The Life Solutions Advantage:

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It is a Group of Professionals which ultimately saves Time and Cost of the Client. Eliminate fake candidatures/enriched database/authenticate resumes. Fully equipped to help organizations focus on their core areas of business, which demand their creative and management time. We are a team of experienced domain specialists providing clients with high quality solutions in Recruitments, training, management consultancy. We develop total HR solutions that deliver higher levels of business success at affordable costs where distance is of no relevance. To offer our Private and Institutional clients a structural multilevel and multitasking range of services that translate into a unique and visionary all-in-one product. We bring to your disposal all the expertise, experience, connections and information to facilitate this process for you.

FABRIC STORE

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The purpose of the fabric store is primarily to check the quality and quantity of the fabric upon its arrival, but also to store them, maintain stock levels and give issuance. Further a form is also attached which carries the information regarding the fabric i.e. roll#, the amount of quantity on each roll, and total amount of fabric in meters. Store supervisors verify and tally the information with their record and unload the fabric and store it in their fabric store. IGWP(inward gate pass) is attached with FRN(fabric receipt note). FRN which carries the information regarding the fabric is entered in ledger book. Depending whether the fabric is Denim or Twill it is entered accordingly in the respect ledgers. FRN is then sent to the Commercial department in which the commercial department enters the Dyeing contract number. FRN again comes back to fabric store where it is entered into the computer. Further a computerized FRN is issued to commercial department for record purpose, which carries the dyeing contract number. It should be noted here that records in fabric store are kept in registers as well as on computers. Quality control department then randomly selects the rolls from the received fabric and does quality check on it. Usually quality check is done on swatches/pieces of fabric with their respective rolls. Further after checking sampling or cutting department sends a request asking for rolls of fabric which have been checked by quality department.

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TYPES OF DEFECTS: Knots: - Cause by tying spools of yarn together.

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Miss pack: - Mixed yarn is a different fiber blend used on the warp frame, resulting in a streak in the fabric. Starting Mark: - When the loop is started, the yarn elongates under tension; the slack is woven into the fabric. Multiply Breakage:-caused by broken needle. Missing End: - yarn of a different fiber blend used on the warp frame, resulting in a streak in the fabric. Floats: - Yarn passes without interlacements of warp or weft. Cracks:-These are light streaks that usually in garment that do not follow warp yarn. Double End: - any extra yarn used by the weaving, during the warp direction. Snarls:-It form due to less tension in yarn or due to more twist. Thick warp: -less twisted in yarn then normal twist in the yarn. Double Pick: - due to problem in electrical sensor does not work problem. Slabs:-Usually caused by an extra piece of yarn that is woven into fabric. It can also be caused by thick places in the yarn. Often is caused by fly waste being spun in yarn in the spinning process.

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DESIGN SECTION:-

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In Design section Designer Explore New design for Buyer and communicate with new buyer. They make Sample according to the tech sheet given by the buyer.

COLLECTION:Collection made by designer for 2 sessions

1. Spring / Summer ' 2. Autumn / winter

DESIGNE PROSSES: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Theme Board Mood Board Inspiration Board Story Board Color Board Sketch Pattern FINAL Garment

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SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

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There are different phases of sampling the first phase covers the development of the initial concept or design idea through its approval by the buyer and full review/ risk analysis by the development and production terms. Person Involved in sampling: Development Team Designers/Sample developers Garment Technologists Packing & Dispatch Sourcing & Dispatch Costing & Finance Sales & Marketing Production Team, Planning Control & testing Quality Control

SAMPLING PROCESS: 1. Tech pack & spec sheet 2. Patteren devolved 3. Proto sample 4. Fit sample 5. Size set sample 6. Pre production 7. Pilot run

SAMPLE ROOM & QUALITY CHECK

1. Before wash garment stitching quality check

2. Before wash garment inspection report 3.After wash garment inspection report

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4.After wash garment measurement report 5. All sample quality and measurement assurance 6.Before dispatch put signature on all measurement format 7.Check quality and needle point in sampling 8.All sample devolved according tech pack 9.Discuss any technical quality issue with

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INPORTANCE AND NEED OF SAMPLING

Sampling is the best way to place an order through it is difficult and fine ending process it will help the exporter to get the order from the buyer.

The purpose of sampling is not only to get bulk order and also it gives some additional benefits to the exporters. By doing sampling the exporter can estimate the yarn consumption for developing the fabric a clear idea on costing and manufacturing difficulties. Besides, by doing sampling the exporter can optimized the processing parameters for mass, which helps to avoid all kinds of bottle necks. The samples, decide the ability of an exporter. The buyer will assess the exporter and this organization only by the samples.

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DEPARTMENT OF CUTTING

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Once the fabric sample is approved, the cutting department must ensure that proper cutting must be made according to the size requirements of the customer. Cutting basically means the cutting of the fabric into required sizes so that it can be stitched into the required size and shape. The cutting department starts it working after it has been provided with the cutting standard by the PPC. As told before in report before bulk production starts, a sample has to be approved, and sample approval is done before cutting. First of all a Zero base pattern is made. Further Details of Cutting Standard and Order Closing is sent to quality department, where the quality department gives it comprehensive fabric analysis report especially shrinkage values to the cutting department. Then marker making of single size is done, fabric sample is cut out and stitched. There-after before wash measurements are done on the sample and sent to washing. After the fabric sample arrives from the washing department it is again measured for any changes. After that the fabric sample graded (given positive or negative values according to the amount of shrinkage) and that is done by tallying the made sample with the approved sample. Grading helps to cut the bulk fabric, as it minimizes errors. Because according to how much fabric is shrinking the fabric would be cut accordingly. When the fabric sample is approved the sample goes to the cutting master, who grades all the sizes according to the approved sample. He feeds all the sizes into the computer system and Gerber plotter makes a maker for all sizes required in the cutting standard. Further shade wise fabric layering starts to take place, the fabric is relaxed and the marker is placed on top of the pile of fabrics and the fabrics are cut according to the marker. After cutting, folding is done; folding is basically the marking of the fabric according to the size, lot, amount of pieces and etc. After that shade matching is done because when the fabric is stitched it should have one shade, not that front panel is of some other tone and the back panel of other. After that the cut fabric is collected and fed to the stitching department by the feeding department.
Sequence in Cutting Room:

Marker Making

Fabric Spreading

Placing Marker Paper on to the Lay

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Fabric Cutting

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Numbering

100% checking & Parts Replacing if needed. Shorting & Bundling

Input to Sewing Room.

Only Expert Cutting Masters are allowed in Cutting Section of Garment to operate the whole cutting process of Garment Cloth. If any faults happen during cutting; the rest of the Garment manufacturing process would be badly hampered. Here is a list of cutting tools and accessories often used on cutting department in garment industry:

1. Straight Knife. 2. Band Knife 3. End Cutter. Working principle of Straight Knife as Cutting Accessories
The Working Principle of Straight Knife of Garment Manufacturing which is used on section is below 1. Firstly, switch on this cutting machine. 2. Then place the cutting machine at any corner of the table 3. Then switch on the blade. 4. Then the operator moves the machine by hand through the stationary fabric layers and cut along marker lines until finish the marker.

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Disadvantage of straight knife as cutting machine. 1. Blade deflection occurs so quality may be hamper. 2. Skill hand required.

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2. Band Knife Machine:

1. This machine worked as saw mill technique. 2. Not possible to cut fabric directly from lay. 3. Block pieces of fabric required in bundle form to cut by this machine. 4. Blade moving vertically through a flat working table. 5. Machine remains stationary and fabric is moveable. 6. Specially used to cut small parts more accurately.

Disadvantages of Band Knife Machine:

1. Fabric wastage is high. 2. Work load high. 3. Push cutting needles in better vision but is more dangerous.

3. End Cutter: -This is suitable for plies end cutting because every plies should be equal
dimension.

Spreading:It is the process of arraning fabrics on the spreading table as per length and width of the marker in stack form. Normally height of the lay/ fabric is limited up to maximum 2and 1/2 inches high. A spread or lay-up is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker.

Fabric cutting:On the fabric lay/ spread the marker paper is placed carefully and accurately and pinned with the fabric to avoid unwanted movement or displacement of the marker paper. Normally straight knife cutting machine is used to cut out the garment component as per exact dimension of each pattern in stack form care must be taken to avoid cutting defect.

Sticker:-After Lays cutting, workers sticks a sticker on each piece with serial number and
with cut, size number. After that arranged a serial number wise each & every pieces.

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Bundling:-

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After cutting is over, bundles are made as per their sizes, a particular code is given to particular panel to prevent the mixing. Numbering is also done after bundling For a particular panel of a particular layer to give a unique identification to it) so that each piece of same pattern / size is sewed together from the same lot of fabric to avoid alteration and rejections. Once the cutting is over, an indent is issued to the store for procurement of the exact number of trims / threads that are required for the particular lot. - Helpers will collect the materials and give it to the lines. After every thing has been organized, all the ready material is then fed onto the respective lines for production -

CUTTING DEPARTMENT
In charge Supervisor

1co-odinetor TABLE 1.
1 2 3

2Co-odinetor TABLE 2.
4 L.M 4 C.M 4 S.M 5 L.M 5 C.M 5 S.M

3Co-odinetor TABLE 4.
8 L.M 8 C.M 8 S.M 9 L.M 9 C.M 9 S.M

4Co-odinetor TABLE 5.
10 L.M 10 C.M 10 S.M

TABLE 3.
6 L.M 6 C.M 6 S.M 7 L.M 7 C.M 7 S.M

L.M L.M L.M 1 2 3

C.M C.M C.M 1 2 3

S.M S.M S.M

L.M:- Layer Man, C.M:- Cutter Man, S.M:- Sticker Man

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Total number of Manpower in Cutting Department.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. In charge- 1 Supervisor-1 Co-odinetor-3 + issue co- odinetor- 1 Layer man-10 Cutter man- 10 Sticker man- 15 Re cut man- 3 Total 44 Man power

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LAYOUT IN THE CUTTING DEPARTMENT

EFFICIENCY
15% 85%

15%

85%

More than 85%Fabric use by cutting department and less than 15% waist by them. Each jean consists of about 14 pieces of denim sewn together. Here you see a bundle of all the cut pieces necessary to complete a pair.

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MARKER MAKING Marker; It is a length of paper (same dimension L*B as that of the lays surface) on which
all pattern pieces of all sizes are drawn. This is spread over the lay and the pattern lines act as the guide line for cutting.

MARKER MAKING
Marker making is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specified style. Fabric and distribution of sizes. (Requires times, skill and concentration)

MARKER PLANNING
Marker planning is imported because when the cutting room cuts cloth. It spends around half of the company turnover. Therefore any reduction in the amount of cloth used per garment will lead to a increased profit.

AIM
The aim of marker planning is try a number of pattern placements.selectinig the one which gives the shortest marker

MANUALLY PRODUCED MAKER

It creating by arranging full pattern pieces on marker paper\or directly on the top ply of fabric in a spread. Pattern pieces are traced using a pencil or tailor calk manual Methods of marker making art time consuming and require a great deal of space.

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SEWING DEPARTMENT
It is the most important department/ sections of a garment manufacturing industry.sewing machine of different types are arranged as a vertical line to assemble the garments. Sequence of types of sewing machine arrangement depends on sequence of assembling operation. Number of sewing per line varies from 20 nos to 60 nos depending on the style of the garment to be produce. Production pr line pr hour also varies from 100 to 150 pieces depending on specific circumstance. Numbring of sewing machine arrangement per line may be upto 60 depending on design and output quantity of garment.

MACHINE BED TYPES1. 2. 3. 4. 1. FLAT BED CYLINDRICAL BED RAISED BED FEED OFF THE ARM FLAT BED: - Machine with flat bed is used where large and open part garment parts

are required to be stitched. Ex-Scoop pocket on a trouser front. 2. CYLINDRICAL BED: - Machine with cylinder bed is used where parts are to stitch

a small curved or awkward in shape.Ex-Buttoning, Bartuck, Trouser Heming. 3. RAISED BED: -Raised Bed used where an operation is required on a small Specific

portion of the garment .Ex-Over edge, Button holing, flat lock. 4. FEED OFF THE ARM: - Feed off the arm is used where a lapped seam has to be

used in such a way that the garment part forms a tube.Ex- Side seam, Inseam of jeans.

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TYPES OF SEWING MACHINE:1. Single needle lock stitch 2. Double needle lock stitch 3. Over lock 4. Feed off the Arm 5. Bar tack 6. Button hole/Key hole Single needle lock stitch: Use-1 bobbin use
Used-it is used for single stitch.

Double needle lock stitch: Use- 2 bobbins Used-It is used for double stitch. Over lock: Use- 2 needle 3 lopper is called 5 threads over lock 2 needle 1 lopper d seam, in seam o only over lock 1 Needle 1 lopper do Chain stitch Used: - it is used on side and Fly. Feed off the Arm: Use- 3 Needle, chain stitch done. Used: - Side seam sewing of the Garment.

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Button Hole: MALWA Programmed has to set for fix length of Button Hole. Ex-1/4, 1/2, 3/8 etc. Used: - It is used for button holing of any garment. Bar Tack: - Used:-Lopper stitch, Pocket, Crotch, Fly etc. Embroidery machine: Use- 2 lopper threads 2 bobbin Used: -It is use for back pocket embroidery stitch.

POERATION BREAK DOWN (TROUSER) BUYER: TOP SHOP STYLE: 510 SEASSION: S/S DATE: 20-06-2011

1. Back Pocket Hem Manual/ Coin Pocket Hem Manual 2. Back Yoke Attach 3. Back Yoke Run Stitch 4. Back Yoke Top Stitch 5. Back Pocket Decorative Stitch-1 6. Back Pocket Decorative Stitch-2 7. Back Pocket Mouth Serge

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8. Automatic Back Pocket Attached 9. Sew Back Rise 10.Back Panel Check 11. Facing Attached 12. Coin pocket Attached 13. Pocket Bag Close 14. Pocket Bag Top Stitch 15. Scoop Attached 16. Scoop Attached Top Stitch 17. Stay Pocket 18. Zip Attached 19. Zip Fly Attached 20. J Stitch 21. Double Fly Attached 22.Front panel Attached 23. Two Right Panel Top Stitch 24. Front Rise 25. Label Attached 26.Check Front Panel

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27. Inseam Attached 28. Side Seam Attached 29. Core Stitch 30. Bar Tuck 31. Loop Stitch 32. Waist Band Marking 33.Waist band Attached 34. Waist Band Finished 35. Band Patch Attached 36. Loop Marking 37. Loop Attached 38. Heming Bottom Hem 39.Key Hole 40. End Line Checking Final Garment Inspection: Each and every garment Sewing passes through the inspection table/ point, where the garments are thoroughly and carefully checked to defect/find any defect if present in the garment. The defects may be for example variation of measurement, sewing defect, fabric defects, sport etc.If the defect is possible to overcome, then the garment is sent to the respective person for correction .if the defect is not correction able, then the garment is separated as wastage.

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Denim Garments Standard Rules in Dry Processing
The process plan in special effect area will be done according to shade numbers. In every operation, bundles will be processed separately. Before one lot number finalized, another lot number never will be processed. Before the first washing load is approved, bulk production cannot be continue until the approval is got from quality department.

The distressed jeans that we see around everywhere undergo a wide variety of wet as well as dry treatments to get the desired effects. Here I shall try to explain some basic Denim Dry Processing techniques. In the creation of vintage denim jeans, dry processes play a very important role and hence important to understand.

Denim Dry Processing - Basic know how

Destroying denims is as much an art as it is a technique. Details are added using a fine abrasive paper on a scraping tool. And extra whiskering can be added with sand paper. Sometimes a bit of local tint staining is being done into the local areas to emphasize the lighter parts. The jeans then go for a washing with pumice stone to blend in the whiskering and tinting / over dyeing. Where the folds and wrinkles go is where the art part comes in, its often through observation of where wear patterns are typically found. Below is list of operations being carried out on denim garment to achieve VINTAGE (used/worn out) look

Hand Sand / Hand Scraping Whiskers Chevrons Knee Star / knee whiskers Hot Spot Tacking Grinding Damages / Destruction PP Spray Bleach spots Resin application Pigments & Local tint application etc..

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1.DENIM HAND SAND / SCRAPING

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Hand sand is step which is generally being done in rigid form of garments to get distress look. Locations can be front thigh & back seat or it can be overall / global application as per Standard. Emery paper is being used to scrape the garments in particular placement & design. Emery paper comes in different number generally start from 40 till 600 and above, higher the number finer the emery paper, lower the coarseness of the paper. In garment industry from 220, 320 & 400 number papers are most popular & widely used. Purpose of doing this process is make used worn out look to the garments. The most important factor is to select right number of paper according to the fabric strength & intensity need. Feathering / merging white sanded part to dark blue area in such way that it should look natural & not artificial. Scraping can be done on inflated rubber balloons for better effect (horizontal or vertical its up to operators convenience), even it can done plain wooden board of garment size & hand pressure should be uniform in order to get better results. Hand sanding must be started from intense part & feathering out on less intense part gradually. One garment must be done by one operator only to have balance intensity on both the legs.

2.WHISKERS/ MOUSTACHES, CHEVRON

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On Denim, whiskers / Mustaches, Chevrons are nothing but the worn out lines / impression generated by natural wearing on hip & thigh area. There are many designs & pattern available. This is being done manually with help of sharp edge Emery paper rolled on fine wood stick or pasted on plastic material. Before starting execution placements & pattern must be marked on garments, this will help operator to execute the pattern right to match the aesthetics of garment..

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All above operations are carried out in width direction hence its appears intense than hand sand with less strokes, because hand sand is carried out in length direction.

3.TACKING & GRINDING

Tacking: is a process which is being done by swift tag machine with the help of plastic or

nylon tag pins in rigid form of garment to get very heavy contrast ( rigid & washed ) on waistband, bottom hems, back pocket & front pocket corners etc.. After completing wash cycle, it must be removed from garment before making softening.
Grinding: is being done on pocket edges & bottom hems edges by running against abrasion

surface or stone to achieve worn out effect. Many different make of machines & pen grinding tools are available in the market which runs with pneumatic system.

4. DAMAGES/DESTRUCTION

One of the most popular distressing effects currently , Destruction is an art which make denim look unique & used. To make destruction pen type of stone tools being used in mid of

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wash process to apply on desired area. It can also be achieved by cutting it thru knife the warp yarns & keep the weft yarn as is to show white thread. Holes also can be made by cutting weft & warp yarns. These are all manual processes & every garment will look unique & different than others. 5. POTASSIUM PERMANGNATE SPRAY/RUB & BLEACH SPRAY

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PP Spray is being done on denim garments to achieve local abraded area to appear whiter

than back ground indigo color shade. This can be applied by spray gun or by towel dipped in to PP Solution & rubbed on desired area followed by neutralization in wet process. This process can be done in rigid after doing hand scrape or in the middle of the wash. Doing after enzyme or bleach cycle will give more natural & white effect that doing in rigid. There are many additives can be added in order to achieve desired intensity and look. The same way bleach solution also can be spray or rubbed on the garments on desired area. But this process is very complicated & needs highly skilled operators to execute it followed by immediate neutralization. There are many parameters needs to be taken into control for doing PP or Bleach spray. Spray gun pressure, width of spray, flow & way of spraying.

6.PIGMENTS & LOCAL TINT ( STAINING) APPLICATION

Need to choose right color of pigment or tint with binder or fixer to apply locally on denim to get vintage look. This process also needs an artist to execute it nicely to merge the tint with ground indigo color & should not look too artificial. Pigments & Local tint also can be applied through spray gun or rubbing on desired area of denim garment. After application its must be cured in order to have permanent effect on jean. As we can see from all the dry denim processes mentioned above, they are mainly manual processes. The quality of the worker can make or break the garment. Hence , great care has to be given to select the right personnel for these jobs.

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BASIC DENIM WASHING PRINCIPLES

Denim washing is aesthetic finish given to denim fabric to enhance the demand and to provide strength. Dry denim as opposed to washed denim is a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed during its production. Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the fact that with time fabric will fade in a manner similar to that which artificially distressed denim attempts to replicate .With dry denim however such fading is affected by the body of the person who wears jeans and the activities of their daily life. This creates what many fell to be more natural, unique look than pre distressed denim.

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The changes occur due to the following actions:

1. Mechanical / rubbing / abrasion between garments to garments. 2. Garments to machine; and 3. Chemical action.

Objects of garments washing: To develop softness in garments: Size materials applied during manufacturing
present in the fabric are removed which enhances soft hand feel. Additional softness may be attained by using softener.

To introduce fading effect: Dyes or pigments are present in the fabric, used during
coloration, are washed out locally or partially which result fading or worn out effects in the garments.

To create new fashion: Washing Process of garments bring different outlook (faded, color tinted etc) thus creating new fashion for the new generation especially for teenagers. To satisfy the consumer :As the contraction or extraction (shrinkage ) occur due to
washing , the wearer can use the garments after purchase satisfactory

Advantages of garments washing: The following advantages are obtained could be gained from the garments washing

Removal of starch or size materials make the fabric soft hands feel. Softness could be increased by the addition of softener just at the last stage of washing.

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Dirt, spots, impurities, gum etc, if accumulated in the garments during manufacturing could be removed. During washing shrinkage may takes place, therefore after washing there is no possibility to create such problem. Washed garments could be worn directly after purchase. Faded or worn out effect could introduced to the garments which creates new fashion Similar outlook can be obtained by different washing techniques. Comparatively lower capital is required to set up a washing plant. Lower land space and least manpower cost are required to run a washing plant.

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Rinse (water) wash: Speaks for itself mostly. Like in the good old days the jeans will be
washed at about 50 degrees Celsius. High risk of color bleeding, so ideal to use for brightening up your old faded jeans by washing them together. Make certain to wash separate from other garments the first few times. Some Jeans brands will even not use sanforized fabric, so that you can shrink them to fit in a hot bath. This was (again) very popular back in the 80's.

Stone wash: Still the most famous of all washings. The jeans are washed with oval or
round pumice stones which should all have roughly the same format. The pumice stones are very light with a rough surface. Sometimes, when the final quality inspectors at the jeans factory forget to clean the pockets, you may even find some residue of these stones in the pockets of your new jeans. During the washing process these stones will scrap off a thin layer of the denim does showing some of the white threads from the part of the cloth where the indigo dyeing stuff was not able to penetrate. It also creates and effect called brilliance. You may also encounter words like deep stone or super stonewash, which are an indication of how long the jeans have been stonewashed. Ergo: The longer the wash, the lighter the jeans.

Enzyme Wash: -It is environmentally friendly wash. It involves the application of organic
enzymes that eat away at the fabric, i.e. the cellulose. When the desired color is achieved, the enzyme can be stopped by changing the alkalinity of the bath or its temperature. Post treatment includes final ringing and softening cycle. The effects produced by cellulose enzyme are:1. Use of cellulose making the seams, hems, and pockets more noticeable; 2. Salt paper effect is color contrast effect. 3. Faded garment washed with acid cellulose enzyme provides less color contrast in proportion to garment washed neutral cellulose enzymes. Garment load size of the m/c is 35-40 jeans per m/c and it cannot be overloaded.

Acid Wash: - It is done by tumbling the garments with pumice stones presoaked in a
solution of sodium hypochlorite or potassium permanganate for localized bleaching resulting in a non uniform sharp blue/white contrast. In this wash the color contrast of the denim fabric can be enhanced by optical brightening. The advantage of this process is that it saves water as addition of water is not required. It consists of soaking pumice stones with chlorine and using their abrasive power to bleach jeans into sharp contrasts. Also known as moon, fog, marble, ice and fros.

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FINISHING DEPATMENT: After passing through the inspection table, each garment is normally ironed pressed to

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Remove unwanted crease and to improve the smoothness so that the garment looks nice To the customer, folding of per required dimension the garment is also done here for poly packing of the garment

Stages of finishing department: 1. Loop cutting 2. Wash care label Attach 3. Mid Checking 4. Rebid button attach 5. Form finished 6. Final checking (inseam, waist Band) 7. Heat set 8. Shadding 9. Over rider 10. Washing inspection 11. Duster (Remove thread)

PACKING
After to finishing department, garment send to packing department then first of all check the tag According to size label divide the garment according to size. 3 or 4 pieces of garment bundling according to Buyer and after that cartoon weight then packed the garment as buyer requirement.

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DESCRIPTION
1. 2. 3. 4. Pices of garment Order No Cartoon dimension Buyer nam

DESPATCH SECTION : Ready for Inspection & shipping Random Inspection Approval for shipment Repacking open cartoon Strapped & stacked Custom approval Dispatch

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DENIM QUALITY CONTROL

Quality control is responsible for assessing the quality of the fabric and determining whether the garments produced from the fabric will be able to meet customer requirements. A system for verifying and maintaining a desired level of quality in the fabric by careful planning, use of proper equipment, continued inspection, and corrective action as required. Usually quality check workings are based and according to the approved sample by the customer. Quality check is done in order to meet the requirements of the customer in the fabric. Quality control workings start as soon as the fabric is in-house and cutting department issues an allocation (a form carrying order#, quantity, wash and etc) to the quality control department. There are usually 4-5 quality checks done on the fabric. They are as follows: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Inspection Shading Shrinkage Width Weight

Inspection of the fabric is done before wash, whereas the shading and shrinkage is done after wash. Inspection: Inspection is usually 100%. Meaning that all the rolls of fabric required in making of the garment are checked. Inspection is done in other to see any visual defects on the fabric i.e. mispick, knots, lose ends/picks and etc. these defects usually occur during the weaving process of the fabric. The fabric is graded according to the American fault 4 point system. In which a defect ranging from 1-3 inches is given 1 point, 3-6 inches is given 2 points, 6-9 inches is given 3 points and above 9 inches it is given 4 points. Then these linear points are converted into 100 square meters of the fabric. It should be noted that these linear points are never added to grade the fabric; rather they are converted into 100sq. meter of the fabric. And according to the calculated answer the fabric is graded. The value of 15 or anything less then 15; means the fabric is of good quality with minimum defects and cleared. Shading: Shading is also done 100%. Shading depends on the original wash. Further after wash the rolls are classified according to the shade coming in them, because it is not necessary that after wash every roll will be of the same shade. So the rolls are classified according to the original shade required by the customer and the shade that is coming afterwash. Families are made and a packing list shade wise is made in which amount of rolls carrying particular shade is grouped. Shrinkage: Shrinkage is usually done on 10-15 rolls. That usually comes out to be 15% of the required rolls. Shrinkage procedure is that swatches of fabric sizes 25 by 25 centimeters are cut and sent to washing. After washing the swatches are again measured to see the length and width of them and the difference is noted. The difference is multiplied by 4 and recorded in wrap and weft direction.

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Width: Width checking is also done 100%. All rolls are quality checked for width measurement. Usually width checking is done during the inspection of the fabric. Commercial standard for width is 63 inches. Weight: Weight of the fabric is done by a standard GSM disc cutter. Further a comprehensive report regarding quality check is sent to departments such as marketing and commercial for the approval of fabric for cutting.

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H.R POLICY
1. Quality policy
2. Enviourment 3. Health or Safety 4. HR vision, mission and core values 5. HR philosophy 6. HR objective

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MANPOWER PLANING
1. Manpower planning 2. Requirement procedure 3. Employee induction 4. Employee record

PERSONAL AND LEVEL RULES

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Work Timing Holidays Leave rules Casual level Sick leave Earned level Compensatory level rules Maternity level

COMPENSATION BENEFITS
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Salary wages break up & disbursement Medical reimbursement Leave travel allowance Car policy for A.G.M above Communication policy

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SYSTEM MANUALS
1. Department manuals 2. H R Audit

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PERFORMANCE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Performance management system Employee reward Training, development and learning Academic growth of employee Superiors responsibility Summer training Fitment of trainees

INDUSTRY SECURITY AND SAFETY

1. 2. 3. 4. Security Health safety Visitors Information checks reference

BUSSINESS CODE CONDUCT

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Conflict of interest $ peer pressure Non abuse of official position Improvement through professionalism team work Confidentiality Whistle blower policy Sexual harassment policy Internet usage policy Prioritizing of task House keeping

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ROLES OF MERCHANDISER In preparing sample the merchandiser places an optical and pre active role. The merchandiser is a person who has to follow all the activities which filled up sight from the manufacturing unit merchandiser should understand the specification and requirement of the buyer and produce sample by considering 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Sampling/Sampling Co-ordination Costing Order finalization Arranging raw materials Getting approval from Buyer Co-ordination manufacturing (detail to production department)&then follow ups for correct quality In the time of shipments. 7. coordinating inspection 8. Co-ordination Shipment 9. Communication The merchandiser has to consider all the quality parameters related to the sample to be developed in case of non conformities in the sample developed revised sample may be sending for approval purpose it is duty of merchandiser to dispatch the developed sample on the time to the concerned buyers.

In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects. Senior merchandisers have responsibilities of product development and coordination with buyer, the garment style that meet buyers expectations in regard to delivery, quality and price point. Junior merchandisers have the responsibility of handling paperwork and follow up, detailing with buyers, overseas communication etc.

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TO THE MANAGING DIRECTOR MALWA INDUSTRY LTD. Sub: - Please allow me to take Sponsors ship from your company for my FASHION SHOW.

Sir, Most respectfully I have to say that I ARBIND MODI from NORTHERN INDIA INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (Govt. of Punjab) have joined this industry. From 08th June to 20 July 2011 for Industry internship I have understood and now I am ready to jump in the industry would but before joining the industry it is required give my final show in my college but due to some financial problem it is difficult to achieve my goal. So I there for request to sir that please grant me this permission for this I will be your libel whole life.

THANKS ARBIND MODI NIIFT (LDH) FD-2009-2012

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