bearing the common generic or'South lndian'.

nameiMadrasi' A closgrstudy revealssubtle dif' ferances that exist in the four southern states not always distinguishable by the Political but .more closelYall' boundaries led to the climatic conditions and the geographiclocation. Kar' nataka state has a combination of several types of cuisine. The coastal area, from the northern border with Maharashtradorn to Mangalorg has a stYle not very different from the cuirine of the west coast. The central areas of the state have a stYle that ls marked by rimplicity and tradi' tion whlle In the coffee growIng districtt of the Coorg dis' trlct there are culinary delights as vibrant and distinct ae the people themselves. The best known fare is undoubtedly the Udipl style of cookingwhlch has now becomg famous all over the country thankg to the severaleaterier of thls type that have sprungup in every part of India. ln the coastal belt of KarnaUka, faggery and coconut Play a major role in the cooking, both, in the preparationof the main neals as well as In snacks and saVourles. Rice continuesto be the staple grain though wheat rs gradually gainlng acceptancein homts speclallyfor the evenlng meal and when there are dietary restrictlons. Women who have }ealisedthe dietary superioilty of wheat have started tryint out even the traditlonal dishes like Blsl Bele Hull Anna with wheat rave Instead of rice. (mudira, kulit) Ihe horsegra,m lr a delicacy In lhe Udipi areas md the stock obtained after long hourc of bolling, is used to prepare a rasam slig[rtly thicker than the one found In Tamilnadu. Rasamis also prepared fiom the tuvar dal. In many of the interlor areas vegetables luch as cauliflower, cabbage,carrok, green peas etc., are seldom found and it is the local produce like ash gourds, pumkins, yams, mairows, Ireen bananar, that are cooked daily. In the caehervgrowlng a?eas the milky green kernels of the tender cashewnut are prlsed open and cooked gently wlth green

Dy fr ,, .orronry berreved lmany that cooking south rof Nagpur all the same, is

vegotablesinto preparationsthat would turn even a french chef green with envy. Ai in several other parts of lndia specialfood is preDared on testrvalsand during days of fasting. The Ekadasi fast is broken on Dwadasiwith a cooling kanji usually served on lts own with 'the addition of ghee and ,ust prckles. When a young girl is expecting her.first child, the Seemantham ceremony is celebrated with chakulisand hori which the guests pile on to the plate of the expectantmother.. Hori is powdered, puffed rlce mlxed with finely grated coconut, sugar and cardamom. In the mountainousregion of Uoorg, non-vegetarianfare rules at both the daily table and on festive occasions. Pork is the speclalityand is cooked with a mrxture of spices that can be truly enjoyed ln the cool salu. brlous climateof the district.The Coorgi style js individualistic and different from the rest ot the state. Meat and fish prepara-

iuu;rffffiipt";* rerd %ifrJa;ur;

rprttytc
tlll it is impossibleto take arv more. No guest beglns to eat until the cry of 'Govlnda, Go. vinda' heralds the signal for everyoReto start; and no guest, RECIPES FROM not even an infant rlses until the last guest |ras had his or her KARNATAKA fill and is ready to rise. ln the ,monthof Dhanu (Dec- BENDKAI(BHENDII ember-January) hugi is prepared PULIYA in the homes almost dally and distributedin some templesspe- 250 grtt. bhcndl (o&nl cially In the Udipi area as the fp. turmcrlc Neiwaidiain. Hugl, a kichdi made I FORTHESEISONING: from rice and green gram dal, is seasonedwith cloves, mace, 2 tbrp, oll |rp" murhrd nutmeg,salt, turmeric and fresh- I trp. udrd drl ly grated coconut. This slmple I rcd chllllcr, but nutritiousdish ls eatcn wlth , a chutney rnade from tamarlnd, A rpdg curry lcrvrr ROAST AND POWDER: green chillies and jaggery. rbp. chmne del Dalry products are available ln t bp. rmloolldr plenty ln certain pockets speclal- I ly around Bangalore and the bor- 2 trp. corlendrr der area of Belgaum. In Bel- 2 rcd chllllcr tp. oll gaum a caramelised sweet ls I (o!-rl from milk, Which, though A rnell brll hnrrlnd ltrade not wldely known outslde the Prepare the vegetrbcr. HcO o{ place ls different fiom the usual and add the reasonlngp. ilor delicaciesmade frcm mllk. Thls add the cut vegetrblcr to ftL sweet called kunda rnd the Dhanrvarpedas are made both Roart the glven masrle [1Din the home but more often dients separetcly In e ryoodul bought hot and fresh from sweet of oil. Pound thlr' rnd rdd to the vetetables when donc. lf tr' shops in the place. There are very few arld sPots marlnd ls being urcd, rrlr.ct in the state and as one Passee the fulce and rdd to thc Ylgr. through fertlle fields and among tables, boll and remove. laden trees one realisesthat nature has truly endolved the place MAGGIGEHULI with the be3t. On an ordlnary daf if one were to visi! a mar- Thls is made on festiw ocket in a town lile Tumkur one casionslike Guddi Padn would see vegetables,frults and Deepavaliand also for marflowers, fresh and tender barely an hour or two awayfrom ,where riages. lltrr.frrrh' curdr they have been,plucked or cut I 1 cup chrnm drl to be sold. I |rp'cttrrnln A traveller In Karnataka can coconul place on the way I stop at any I grrcn chllllc and'hope to get putl-puliyaand I trp. trnncrlc a cup of hot coffee made from S.lt to trltc freshly ground peaberryseedt to refresh himself. The trlmmings FOR THE SEASONING; of a {ive-star restautantmay be 2 6rp. oll lrp. rnurtrrd absentbut lt will be amply com-, I pensated with wholesomenss Sonc cuny lcevct and simpliclty, the two features GonilnuGd prjr ?f on thet seemto characterlse fare. the

;THffi

sffi'#F

A tnveller ln Kamataka cirn stoD at any place on thb way and lope to get puilpullya and a cup of hot coffee. Thir trlmmlngs of a five-star rcshurant may be abcent but lt wlll be amply compensatd fol by whofesomerr$3 and dmplldty
trons trom the Mangalore area of the state also have a distinct touch about them. Thoughthere is no specialrice that is favouredthe chillies from Eedige are highly sought after. chilli, Quite akin to the Kashmirl thei Bedige chilli providesrichness of cqlour without too much pungency.When buying coriander, specially the Bangalore coriander, care is taken to see that the seedsare as small ab posslble as the smallest varlety possesses finest aroma. the Slmilarly, the Bangaloretamarlnd ls highly' prized and is dif.ferent from the other varletiesas it is less acidic and almost faintly 3weet. The marrlage feast servgd on the large bananaleaf is almost like an edible carpet.(Seecolour photograph on page 41). Eesides the items that are placed before the guests sit down, a never ending stream of serveri pres3 several ddicacles on the gu$t3

A TOUCH OF KUTCH
Contlnued from page 5l 2 onions, ffnety chopped I pod gerlic, gtound I tsp. garanr mesah I tsp. each red chlllis end dhania powder I tsp. lurmeric pouder 1 bunch coriander leavcr, chopped Selt to hsta Mix all the flours and other lngredients,add a little groundnut oil and water to make a soft dough. Take fistfuls of dough and arrange oval shapes In a metal sieve and steam. You could use a pressure cooker for steamlng. When cooked, temove and let it cool. Seasonin groundnut oil, mustdrd,red chillies and curry leaves. Garnlsh with coriander leaves.Serve hot.

2-3green chlllles Groundnut oil for frlng Srlt to taetc Add curdsto the flour and make a pliable dough. Keep this overnight. In the morningadd all the ingredientsand mix well. Shape the dough like meduvadas and deep fry. Serve hot with garlic chutney.

IASAN NI CHUTNEY
8-10red chllller I tsp. each cummln rcedr end corirnder powder 1 garlic, crushed I lrp. faggery Salt to terte

Add water and salt to the half kilo maida and make a soft dough. Keep aside. Mix ghee in the remainingmaida and knead well without water. Spreadthe maida dough thinly on a wooden board. Over this sprinkle evenlythe mixture of maida and ghee. Cut into three-inch strips and roll lightly. Cut the roll into three to four pieces and makeinto balls using a light pressure. Roll out into puris againwith a gentle pressure. Deep fry on both sides till golden brown. These could be made smaller in size as required. They resemble crisp 'khari' biscuits. Preparingpakwans needsa little skill but you will be able to make them with a little practice.

and remove from heat Mix delle and jaggery and'keepon a low flame stirring till the dalia is cooked. [et it simmer for abotrr 15 minutes. When done, rerrrova from heat. Add nutmeg and cerdamom powder, raisins and mir well.

GUIABPAK
I ke mava (ldrofrrl 750 gm. rugar 2S gm. cmheunutr, cut 16 pleces 5 em. cild.momr, pordcrud 25 gtn. dry or frulh rcrc pcfrb (dry petelr cln be hrd A eny ayurvedlc rhop) Add about a glass of water to sugar to make a two-string consistency syrup. Roast the mava for about five minutes. Add to , the syrup and stir well. When it bubbles, remove from heat. Keep on stirrlng for a few minutcs" To this add rose petals, cashwnuts and cardamomand mh well. Smeara thali with a little ghee and pour the mixture in it to about a one-inch thickncsr let it set and cool. Cut into rectangular pieces and garnish with rose Petalg. vegetablesif belng complete cooking. used end

KOD NA GAYADA
I tp q1th, metH (kod) Sour curdc I tsp. cech codander powder, red cfrillicr end geram mrnle l{ndr plece glnger, cruchcd

Soak the chillies in water over- rAPgf night. Mix all the ingredients and grind finely adding a little water. I kg. whert, corrsely ground Add one teaspoon hot ghee to (da[a) thc chutney. 4fXl gn laWety l, cups ghee 5-0 cardamomr, powdered PAKWAN About 25 nlslnc A plrch of nutmeg porvdct kg. malda to rneke e dough I 200 gm. malde for rprlnldll6 on Pour a little ghee in a kerahland pekwen roast the dalia till brown. Keep 100 gm. ghec aside. Boil the iaggery in four Selt to trrtc cups of water for a few irinutes

Soak the green nuts in hot wa- MUTTON BAFAT ter and then Cut open to remove Contlnued from prge 39 This is a difi made by the the kernels. Soak the channa dal for two in Slice the tlndlis lnto strips Christians the Manfalore hours and grlnd to a paste wlth lengthwise. Heat oil and add area and shows the simithe coconut, green chil|ies and larity in the food styles of cummin. Mix the above ground mustard, udad dal and red chil- the people living along the lies. Next add the curry leaves, paste well with the curd, add turmeric, the tindlis, green chil- Westoast. turmeric and salt and bring to a lies and the cashewkernels.Add boil. When the dal has cooked X& nutlon a few teaspoonsof water for the I and the hull has thickened, retindlis to cook. When done, add 7 cloves move froin the fire and season I lrrye piece cinnrmon with mdstardand curry leaves, the salt, coarselyground coco- 3 oniono, st'ced nut and jaggery. fried in two tablespoons oil. of 5 grccn chllllee, dlced Ambdai bhajias made fiom 2 ggds garllc, rliced rcaked channa dal, ground with MULTUSOUTAKAI I ltch piece ginger, rliccd red chillies. curry leaves and I tDrp. vinegrr (KAKDT) ginger are deep fried and added GRIND,TO A PASTE: tc the maggige huli sometimes. DOSAI I rctl chillles i;t cummin rccdr I gn (GREEN 250 ber) tender kakdls,(cuqrm. I trp. rnuotard GERUBEEJA I tsp. corlander GASHEWKERNEL) 2 cupr rice I tsp.''fuEnerlc VEGETABl"E I coconut l0 peppelro?nt 3 grcen chilllee kg. potrloee or I (llndli) 100 snL gftc*lnr f -walnut-sizcd bell feggcry cabbege(opt) 2lXl tm. cerherr kcmch Salt to taste 2 tbsp. oll Cut the mtition and wash. Place I lsp. uded del Soak the rice in water for four the mutton in a vessetwith all 2 ted chilllcr to five hours then drain and the ground masala and the cloves tsp. nudrrd grind with the coconut, green and cinnamon, I Add salt and vine2 green drllllcl chilfies, iaggery, salt and lastly gar and cook adding just suffitsp. tunnldc * the cucumbers. Form lnto a thln cient water to allorrrr the meat to Some cuny lcevcr batter and make dosas on a hot cook. When the nFat ls almost coconut coerely ground tava using a little oil to grease ready add the sliced ginger, chilI Selt lo l,rr3e the base. Eat with fresh butter. lies, onions and garlit Add the

GOV|NDA, cOVtNDAt

A lltlle laggery

COORGI PORKCURRY
I kg polk 5 green chillicr I to 10 clwcr gerllc a blg onlonr t-lnch piece ginger I tsp. tunnenc 3 tb3p. vinegrr or Cooryl l> chanpull Salt to liltc I trp. chltli powder ROAST AND POWDER FINEIY:
I

2 2

ttcp. corlendcr rdr trp. murtrrd rcedr bp. cunmin reedt trp. peppercornr

Cut the pork into medium-slzed pieces.Wash and smearwith turmeric,chilli powder and ralt Grind the green chillies,onlons, ginger and garlic coarsely. Put the cut meat in a dekchi with the ground masala and a cup of hot water. let it cook well. When almoit cooked, add the powdered masalas, When well cooked add the vinegar or kachampuli and remove from the fire. There should be a thick grarryfor the

curry.