Two Hour Car Care Seminar.

Safety First!!!
Use common sense! Stay clear
of moving parts. Never remove
the radiator cap or a hose when
the cooling system is hot.
Never get underneath a jacked
up vehicle unless it is properly
supported.
I. Warning Indicators and dipsticks -
Understanding Your Engine’s Basic Needs -
“Check Engine” and “Service Engine Soon” lights
will be covered at the end.
Fluids
a) Engine Oil – type and service
intervals
A large amount of heat is created during engine operation. The
heat created between some moving parts is so great that an
internal combustion engine cannot operate for long before
damage will occur. The lubrication system provides a steady
supply of pressurized oil to the moving parts of the engine.
Lubrication reduces friction heat and keeps parts from wearing
against each other. Oil also helps cool the engine, wash away
dirt and debris, and reduce noise.

The major components of the lubrication system include:

 Oil pan
 Oil strainer
 Oil pump
 Oil filter
 Oil seals
 Dipstick
 Oil pressure indicator
 Sealing materials

MOTOR OIL

Today's motor oils are made from naturally occurring crude oil
(petroleum) or from man-made chemical compounds
(synthetics). Some motor oils are made from both and are called
partial synthetics.

Motor oils are categorized according to SAE viscosity classes as

defined by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). Viscosity

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is an expression of the ability of a fluid to flow or move. A thick oil
at a given temperature does not flow as quickly as a thinner oil at
the same temperature, therefore the thicker oil will have a higher
viscosity number. Oils are graded according to their viscosity in
relation to ambient temperature. Viscosity is an indication of the
characteristics of an oil at a given temperature. The viscosity
information says nothing about the quality of the oil

Viscosity Grade

The familiar SAE designations for

grades of oil, such as 5W, 10W,
15W, 30, 40, and 50, simply refer
to the viscosity of oil at a specific
temperature.

There are single grade oils and multigrade oils in use today in
internal combustion engines. A single grade oil is an oil which
performs to its grade through the entire range of temperature. A
multigrade oil is an oil which performs differently cold than when
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it is hot. A multigrade oil can be made to act like a thin oil when
cold temperatures tend to thicken liquids and act like a thick oil
when hot temperatures tend to thin liquids. Multigrade oils are
also called multi-viscosity oils.

SAE numbers tell the temperature range that the oil will lubricate
best. An SAE 10 classified oil lubricates well at low temperatures
but becomes thin at high temperatures. An SAE 30 classified oil
lubricates well at mid-range temperatures but becomes thick at
low temperatures. Multigrade oils cover more than one SAE
viscosity number. Their designations include the two viscosity
numbers that the oil has met. For example, SAE 10W30 oil
meets the requirements of a 10 weight oil for cold start and cold
lubrication, and the requirements of a 30 weight oil for mid
temperature lubrication.

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Oil circulates through the engine as follows:

 The oil in the oil pan is drawn up through the oil strainer
by the oil pump. The strainer filters out large particles.
 Oil flows through the oil filter, which filters smaller
particles of dirt and debris.
 From the oil filter, the oil flows into the main oil passage
(or gallery) in the cylinder block.
 From the main gallery, oil flows through smaller
passages to the camshaft, pistons, crankshaft, and other
moving parts. Oil holes and jets direct the flow of oil to
critical parts, such as bearings and pistons.
 As the oil lubricates the surfaces of moving parts, it is
constantly pushed off by new oil. The oil drips from the
lubricated surfaces back into the oil pan. In many engines,
an oil cooler is used to cool the oil before the oil is drawn
back through the oil strainer to repeat the cycle.

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Oil drips off the moving parts into the oil pan. A pump draws the
oil from the pan, through a strainer, and forces it under pressure
through a filter. After filtering, the oil passes to the lubricating
points in the cylinder head and the cylinder block. A pressure
relief valve in the oil pump ensures that oil pressure does not
exceed engine oil pressure specifications.

Full pressure is used to pump oil through the main oil gallery. Oil
from the main gallery lubricates the crankshaft main bearings,
connecting rod bearings, camshaft, and hydraulic valve lifters (if
equipped). In other parts of the engine, the volume is reduced as
oil flows through smaller passages. Pushrod ends and rocker
arms receive reduced pressure lubrication.

The lubricating oil in the engine is subjected to great stresses

from temperature and contamination. The oil must retain its
lubricating ability at temperatures of up to 150° C (300º F). Oil
coolers are sometimes used to keep engine oil from getting too
hot. Oil coolers transfer heat from oil to the outside air or to
engine coolant. The oil is also subjected to chemical stresses
from combustion gases, dust, metal particles from wear, and
combustion residues. The high temperature and contaminants
reduce the ability of the oil to perform well and lead to the
formation of sludge.

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The engine oil dipstick is used to measure the level of oil in the
oil pan. One end of the dipstick dips into the top of the oil
reservoir, and the other end has a handle so it can be pulled out
easily. The end that dips into the oil pan has a gauge on it that
shows whether oil should be added to the engine.

Note: It‟s important to keep the oil level above the

"MIN" line at all times. The crankcase should never be
overfilled or allowed to drop too low. Too much oil
may permit the crankshaft to contact the oil and churn
it until it turns to foam. The oil pump cannot pump
foam, and foam will not lubricate. Low oil levels can
result in excessively high oil temperatures, which may
lead to bearing failure. An oil level that is too high or
too low can also increase oil consumption. Consult
the Owner's Manual for the correct oil capacity and
recommended oil.

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 Sometimes the holes pictured here aren‟t there,
and sometimes they don‟t reflect the full and empty
marks; learn the hash marks or the appropriate
words (i.e., „full‟ or „empty‟) on your particular
dipstick. Transmission dipstick is similar.

RELATED WARNING INDICATORS: The instrument

panel usually has some type of oil pressure
indicator that warns the driver when the lubrication
system cannot maintain the oil pressure needed by
the engine. This indicator may be a gauge or a
warning light.

Oil Change Intervals: Assuming 5 quarts of oil

in a particular engine will last 3,000 miles, then 4
quarts in that same engine will break down at
about 1,500 miles!

b) Automatic Transmission Fluid -

Service every 30,000 miles (or as owner‟s manual
specifies) and use prescribed fluid. Service more often if
vehicle has been towing heavy loads. Some of the newest
automatic transmissions don‟t have dipsticks, so you might

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not be able to check your own fluid level. (a 99 Cavalier
equipped with the 4T40E transaxle is one example) The
owner‟s manual will say so if there is no dipstick. In the
photo below, the red part is just a filler cap. There is an oil
level hole with a threaded plug in the side of the
transmission.

I
If the transmission has a dipstick (sometimes they‟re
hard to find, but they‟re usually somewhere at the back
of the engine in rear wheel drive cars or at the driver
side of the engine on front wheel drive vehicles), pull the
dipstick out and wipe it off before checking the oil. Next,
have a look at the stick. On some vehicles the type of
fluid and the necessary gear position (Park or Neutral)
required will be stamped on the dipstick.

Always check automatic transmission fluid with the

engine running and warm, but be very careful not to burn
yourself. If in doubt, let your technician check the fluid.
RELATED WARNING INDICATORS: Not all automatic
transmissions have warning indicators, but some
Electronic transmissions may flash the overdrive
(OD) light or a light that looks like a hollow gear with
an exclamation point inside. GM cars may have a
“Service Vehicle Soon” light (more later on that)
Have the vehicle checked by a service professional
if either is the case. Transmission shift quality may
be different when the transmission warning indicator
is flashing or illuminated.

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 c) Brake Fluid – Most cars use Dot 3 brake
fluid (as opposed to Dot 4 or Dot 5, which is silicone based
but prone to foam in ABS systems), and if your vehicle has
4 wheel antilock brakes, the fluid should actually be
replaced each time the pads are changed, but most
service outlets will balk if
you ask them to change
the brake fluid. If they
agree, make sure they
pump all the old fluid
through the system rather
than simply replacing
what‟s in the reservoir.
RELATED WARNING
INDICATORS: Every car has a
red brake warning light. The
red brake warning light is
supposed to illuminate when
the park brake is applied, but it can also mean that
the brake fluid level is low. If the red brake warning
light comes on and the park brake isn‟t applied,
check the fluid level, and pay particular attention to
the way the brake pedal feels: If the fluid level is
okay and the warning indicator is illuminated have
your technician check for brake problems. If your
ABS light (usually a yellow light) is illuminated, the
red brake light may also be illuminated; one can
easily be the cause of the other, since the red brake
light is also connected to the ABS system. When
the ABS light is illuminated, the ABS system will not
operate (you might skid in a panic stop), but the
service brakes will still work normally. Have the
vehicle checked if the ABS light comes on.

d) Power Steering – Use Power Steering

fluid when possible. Even if the owner‟s manual calls for
ATF, Power Steering Fluid is still a safe bet.
No warning indicators here. Some power steering
systems provide power brake assist, but that‟s generally
on older GM diesel cars and heavy duty pickup trucks.

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 e) Washer Fluid – Use washer fluid with
alcohol in the winter so the washer fluid wont‟ freeze and
burst the reservoir.
RELATED WARNING INDICATORS: No big deal; if
your washer fluid light comes on, just pick up a
gallon, make sure you‟re pouring it in the right place,
and fill „er up.

f) Anti-Freeze (coolant), belts and

hoses – Change every 30,000 regardless of owner‟s
manual recommendations; the orange coolant needs
changing just as regularly as the green. The coolant
protects the inside of the engine block and prevents rust
and corrosion. If the coolant in your engine is rusty
looking, it‟s time to have it changed. As for coolant hoses,
pay attention to any that seem to be deformed.

Belts should be replaced if the pulley side of the belt is

cracked or polished in appearance, and usually belt
routing schematics can be found under the hood on a
vehicle with serpentine (multigroove) belts, but don‟t try
changing a belt if you aren‟t wrench-smart. A belt that is
squealing usually needs replacing unless the component
it is driving is giving a problem.
Never open a hot cooling system. Check the
coolant with the engine cool and NOT running. Try
to squeeze the upper radiator hose to see if it has
pressure before removing the cap. If the hose is
pressurized don‟t remove the cap!
RELATED WARNING INDICATORS: Coolant level
lights may look like a little radiator, or they may say
something like “low coolant.” Temperature warning
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 indicators usually look like a thermometer or they
may say “Temp” (temperature). Some coolant level
senders are checking more than the coolant level;
late model GM cars have a $50 sensor in the radiator
that checks the percentage and quality of the
coolant, so if you‟ve added clear water to the cooling
system on your 2001 Buick, you might see a light.
A light that looks like a battery may come on if the
belt is slipping badly, off the pulleys, or broken.
Don‟t keep driving if that
light comes on because the
belt that pulls the generator
might also be the one that
drives the water pump.
g)

g) Manual Transmission Oil – Some

manual transmissions use Automatic Transmission
Fluid. Some use 50 weight oil and some use 90 weight
oil. The type of oil varies from car to car. Make sure the
right kind is used. No warning indicators apply. Watch for
leaks, though; running a manual transmission dry of fluid
can destroy gears and bearings in short order! No
warning indicators here.

h) Differential Oil – Axle oil (obviously

found only on rear wheel or four wheel drive vehicles)
almost never needs changing unless problems occur with
the gears or seals in the differential, but should be
checked regularly. No dipsticks, just an oil level hole in the
rear or side of the unit. No warning indicators apply but
once again, watch for leaks! Four wheel drive vehicles
have a differential in the front and in the rear. No warning
indicators here.

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II. Driveline necessities (Drive axles)
The purpose of a transmission is to modify the force of the
engine‟s rotational force, (called „torque,‟) and transfer it to
the vehicle‟s drive axle through a driveshaft with flexible
couplings called „U-joints‟ or „CV joints.‟ The transmission
also allows the vehicle to be operated in reverse. Automatic
transmissions have many design variations.

Front wheel drive vehicles have constant velocity (CV)

joints (see above photo) that are packed with grease and
protected with accordion style boots that can split and allow
grease to get out and dirt to get in. Most shops don‟t replace
just the boots any
more, though. The
entire axle usually
costs less than
$100 and comes
with new boots and
remanufactured CV
joints. It may be
hard for you as a
consumer to see
the boots, but make
sure your service
technician has a
look when he or she
is changing your oil.
Worn out Constant Velocity joint

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 a) What you can do to keep your
driveline healthy – Keep fluids checked, topped
and changed. Don‟t overfill. Don‟t make jackrabbit
starts or pull loads heavier than the vehicle is designed
to handle. If you do pull heavy loads, make sure to
have the transmission serviced more frequently, since
automatic transmission oil begins to get gummy and
burned if the transmission is worked harder.
Have all oil and/or fluid leaks fixed as soon as possible.
Have your CV joint boots checked every time the engine
oil is changed and have any necessary repairs made as
soon as possible. Report any popping or clicking noises
heard while turning; CV joints sound like that when
they‟re wearing out, but in most cases, if the boots
remain in good shape, the CV joints will last the life of
the vehicle.

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III. Tires, Wheels, and Alignment

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 Tread wear indicators – This tire is worn out
Pay close attention to your tires; the one in the picture
shows normal wear. Keep an air gauge handy; tire pressure
should be checked monthly and any tire that appears to be
low may have a slow leak. Check your spare tire regularly!
Cars that are stored in hot garages seem to need the tire
pressure adjusted more regularly than cars parked on an
open driveway. Low tire pressure (under inflation) will cause
tires to wear on the outside edges, while over inflated tires
will wear more toward the center of the tread. Since the
front tires work so hard to steer the vehicle, the tires should
be rotated every time the engine oil is changed for optimum
tread life. Radial tires will sometimes separate and cause
strange wobbly drive symptoms or rumparumparumpa

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noises. Abnormal tire wear generally means you need to
have the alignment checked.
Use your jack and lug wrench to practice changing a tire
on your own vehicle in your driveway (it needs to be level
concrete or level hard packed dirt) so you‟ll know you have
everything you need and where the stuff is found on the car.

WARNING INDICATORS: More and more late model

cars are equipped with tire pressure warning indicators.
Some tire pressure warning systems use remote
sensors attached to the inside of the wheel rim or inside
on the tire‟s valve stem. Other types compare the
rolling speed of separate tires to determine whether or
not all the tires are inflated properly.

IV. Brakes, Shocks, and Struts.

a) BRAKES: Brake linings wear out, usually more on the
front than on the rear, since a vehicle. Keep a close
check on the fluid level in the master cylinder and
immediately have the brakes checked if you hear
unusual noises when braking or if the pedal doesn‟t feel
right. Obviously, if the vehicle doesn‟t stop the way it
should, the brakes need to be checked. New brake pads
are semi-metallic (they have small pieces of metal mixed
with the lining material) varying amounts of squealing
noises may be normal, even on new brake pads.
b) SHOCK ABSORBERS. Springs support the weight of
the car. Shock absorbers keep the car from bouncing.
Struts combine the spring and the shock in an assembly
that both supports the car and dampens the bouncy
oscillations that occur when a vehicle drives over bumps.
Shocks and/or struts (some cars have struts on the front
and shocks on the back) are usually in need of
replacement at about 100,000 miles. A car that bounces
more than twice after it is jounced generally needs new
shock absorbers. In many, if not most cases, the vehicle
will need an alignment after struts are replaced.

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 c) ALIGNMENT. Obviously, if your car pulls or shimmys
and tire pressure is okay, have the alignment checked.
V. “What is it that’s leaking?”
Oil and coolant leaks tend to blow around under the
vehicle while it is being driven, painting the bottom
surfaces of the car with a greasy mess and making it
hard to determine where the leak or leaks may be
originating. Generally speaking, the wet spot on the
driveway will help pinpoint the general area of the leak.
Be aware that fluid can catch on parts and run to a
different area before dripping off the car. Placing a
piece of cardboard or a newspaper under the vehicle at
the leak point and showing it to the technician
sometimes helps when leaks are small or only show up
intermittently. When in doubt, about the fluid that is
leaking, check to see which fluid level is low.

Engine Oil is usually dark and thick, particularly if the engine

is cold, unless the oil has just been changed, in which case it
may be quite clear. An oil leak may come from anywhere
underneath the engine. While the engine and transmission
are bolted together, engine oil generally leaks from the
engine area, not the transmission area of the powertrain.
Automatic Transmission Fluid is red, can seem clear in
small quantities, but may be darker if the transmission needs
servicing, and isn‟t nearly as thick as engine oil. Will
generally leak from the rear of the powertrain but can leak
from the radiator or the transmission cooler hoses leading to
the radiator.
Power Steering Fluid may either be red (if ATF is used for
power steering fluid) or clear and can leak from just about
anywhere power steering lines run. It can also leak from the
power steering pump and/or the power steering gear or rack
and pinion.
Engine Coolant (Anti Freeze) can either be green, orange,
or amber, and different coolant types shouldn‟t be mixed.
When adding coolant, unless you‟re beside the road
somewhere, try to add a 50/50 mix of water and coolant. If
mixing the water and coolant for storage, always use distilled
water or the mix may sludge over time. Coolant can leak
from anywhere from under the front of the car, since water
hoses travel the length and breadth of the engine
compartment. On vans coolant may leak from the long
heater hoses going to the rear unit.
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Brake or Clutch Fluid (same fluid) is usually clear or amber
and will usually show up at one of the wheels, but can leak
from the Master Cylinder area, right in front of the driver, or
anywhere between the wheels where brake lines run.
Manual Transmission oil or rear axle grease can come
from the transmission or rear end area.
Gasoline evaporates rapidly but generates a hydrocarbon
(gas smell) odor.

VI. Language, terms, and logic:

Describing problems to a service
professional.
When taking your car in for service, be clear about what you
want done and what believe needs fixing. Service Advisors
may not always ask the right questions, either. Whenever
possible, try to get a service advisor or technician to ride with
you or allow you to personally show them what it is you want
fixed. I don‟t know how many times was misled by the work
order writeup and burned an hour or two working on a non-
essential concern, only to find that what I fixed wasn‟t the
problem he or she was concerned about.

Communication is the key to a good service experience.

Some people don‟t want to use the mental energy to
describe their problem and many have the idea that any
technician worth his salt will automatically use the “magic
machine” (HAH! There is no such machine anywhere) to
zero in on their concern, but it is important to provide as
much information as possible. The machines technicians
use can point to a problem area, but in the great majority of
cases, the technician has to be sharp enough to interpret the
data the machine produces and compare it to the information
YOU (the customer) provide in order to determine what the
cause of the concern may be.
The key to describing a problem the right way is rooted in
your own experience. Pay attention to what your car is (or
was) doing wrong (take notes if necessary), notice when the
problem happens, and how often it occurs. Be as accurate
as possible. Unless you want to confuse the technician, don‟t
say the problem happens “All the time” when it only

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 happens once or twice a week, or even once or twice a day!
Here are some guidelines:

Is the problem intermittent or chronic?

Does the problem happen when the car is cold or hot?

Is the car running when the problem occurs, or does it

happen after a “hot soak?” (a hot soak happens when the
car is at full operating temperature and is parked for a few
minutes while the driver goes in a store. With no air or
coolant circulating, the engine compartment actually gets
hotter for a few minutes before it begins to cool down.) If the
„hot soak‟ question answer is no, does the problem occur
after the car sits a few hours?

If the car is stalling, does it start right back up or do you

have to wait awhile? Does it stall while cruising, while
stopping, or after you stop?

Did the problem just begin to occur or has it been happening

for awhile?

Have you recently changed your grade of gasoline?

(Regardless of what fuel manufacturers would have us think,
premium fuels burn slower than lower octane fuel and can
actually cause carbon deposits and drivability problems in
engines that are designed and electronically tuned for 87
Octane fuel. More expensive isn’t necessarily better when it
comes to gasoline. If it calls for 87 Octane, use a good
brand of 87 Octane.)

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Short Glossary of descriptive terms (not
exhaustive):

Starting concerns
No Crank (Either clicks or does nothing when the key is turned
to the start position)

Hard start/Long Crank (Cranks but takes a longer than normal

time to start.)

No Start (Cranks normally but won‟t start)

Idle Concerns
Slow to return to idle (Idle speed remains higher than normal
longer than it should when coming to a stop)

Rolling Idle (Idle speed is uneven, surging up and down)

Fast Idle (Idle speed is higher and normal and stays there most
or all of the time)

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Performance While Driving
Stalls/Quits (Idle, Acceleration, Deceleration, or Cruise?) (The
vehicle stops running while driving; make sure you tell the
service advisor when the problem occurs and how often)

Runs Rough (Idle, Acceleration, or Cruise?) Engine doesn‟t

perform smoothly at any time.

Misses (Idle, Acceleration, or Cruise?) Similar to “Runs Rough,”

but happens intermittently with a noticeable loss of power.

Buck/Jerk (Acceleration, Deceleration, or Cruise?) Refers to a

sudden loss of power that returns after just a moment and tries
to jerk a crick in your neck.

Hesitation/stumble (Acceleration) Car “falls on its face” when

applying the throttle, either from a dead standstill or when
attempting to pick up speed suddenly on the highway.

Surge (Acceleration or Cruise?) Uneven power at a steady

throttle angle and speed or when attempting to accelerate
smoothly.

Backfires (Idle, Acceleration, or Deceleration?) Backfiring can

occur either in the exhaust or back through the intake system.
Once again, be clear about when the backfiring occurs.

Lack/Loss of Power (Acceleration or Cruise?) Poor performance

with less power than expected.

Spark Knock (Acceleration or Cruise?) pinging noise, usually

described as “valve rattle,” but has nothing to do with the
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valves. The combustion mix is exploding earlier than it should,
causing the pistons to make a rattling or pinging noise.

Brake System Concerns

Shudder or chatter Rough, abnormal brake operation that
occurs with machine-gun like feeling when brakes are applied.

Pulsation Similar to Shudder, but at a much lower frequency,

usually felt through the pedal.

Low/spongy Pedal Brake pedal travels farther than it should

when brakes are applied and/or feels soft instead of firm.

Hard Pedal Harder than normal pedal feel

Grabbing Wheels slide on mild application

Noise Scrubbing, squealing, popping, etc.

Brake Fade brakes lose their stopping power usually when

reducing vehicle speed rapidly right after high speed driving.

Warning indicators related to brakes ABS and red brake

warning lights. Red light can mean fluid is low or that part of
the brake system isn‟t functioning. This light “proves out” when
the key is turned to the start position on most cars.

Park Brake Concerns (self explanatory)

Inoperative

Low pedal

Won‟t release
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Warning indicator concerns

Steering/Handling
Free Play (steering wheel movement)

Pull (Self explanatory)

Wander (excessive steering correction required)

Oversteer

Understeer

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Shimmy a tooth-chattering vibration that jiggles the
steering wheel at certain speeds or after braking. Can be
extreme to the point of being dangerous.

Memory Steer a fault-based concern in which the vehicle

immediately tends to pull in the same direction as the last
turn.

Automatic Transmission Concerns

Upshift concerns Transmission shifts improperly when
accelerating to road speed, either rough, late, or not at all.

Downshift concerns Transmission downshifts improperly

when coming to a stop, either roughly, late, or not at all.

Engagement concerns Engages harshly or improperly

when placed into gear.

Leaks Self explanatory

Indicators „Overdrive‟ or other transmission warning light

flashing or illuminated when it shouldn‟t be.

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Manual Transmission Concerns
Shift lever or linkage concerns Shifter loose, tight, won‟t
go into all gears, etc.

Clutch Concerns Transmission goes into gear but won‟t

pull off. Transmission won‟t go into gear. Pedal is hard or
low.

Axle concerns
Noises and vibrations Whining or roaring, clunking, etc.
while driving from the rear axle (2WD) or front axle (if
4WD).

Computers, “Check Engine” lights and

stuff.

If your car is newer than a 1988

model, chances are you have a
light that says “Check Engine,”
“Service Engine Soon,” or “Power
Loss.” This light is referred to by
the EPA folks as a “Malfunction
Indicator Light,” (MIL) and in most
26
(not all) cases, the light is amber. On some vehicles the
MIL is red. Some GM cars have a “Service Vehicle Soon”
light, which is designed to alert the driver of non-emission
related powertrain problems (Among other things,
computerized transmission related concerns can cause the
Service Vehicle Soon light to illuminate).
The Check Engine/Service
Engine Soon light might only be
an ISO symbol for an engine like
the one shown at left, and some
folks think this light means they
need to check their oil and coolant
levels, which isn‟t a bad idea, but
the MIL doesn‟t really care about
those things.
The MIL generally means that the Powertrain Control
Module (PCM) has detected an emissions related concern
that may or may not be causing a problem the driver can
feel. This light is an Environmental Protection Agency
(EPA) requirement. On most cars built since 1994, the
PCM is carefully watching the operation of the catalytic
converter as well as the other emissions devices and the
fuel system components. The problem isn‟t always
something that needs immediate attention. For example,
an engine that runs too cold can cause the PCM to
illuminate the MIL, since emissions can increase on a cold
running engine. A loose fuel filler cap can cause an MIL
on newer vehicles, so check your gas cap if the light
comes on.
A flashing MIL means the PCM has detected a misfire
condition severe enough to damage the catalytic converter
with unburned fuel, and while the vehicle isn‟t likely to stall
and not start under those conditions, it should not be
driven any farther than absolutely necessary when the MIL
is flashing, especially if the vehicle is out of warranty.
Catalytic converter replacement can cost as much as
$1000 on some vehicles, so don‟t take unnecessary
chances when it comes to a flashing MIL light!

Richard McCuistian worked as a professional technician for 25 years, holds

9 ASE certifications and teaches Auto Mechanics at Lurleen B. Wallace
Community College.

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