The Bear

A Complete Chess System

Walter Thomas Downs

Copyright2011 by Walter T. Downs

The author grants the reader of this book, permission to distribute this book freely, provided none of the contents of the book is changed.

Table of Contents
Introduction........................................................4 Chapter 1: Perfect Chess......................................................5 Chapter 2: The Bear: A Complete Chess Repertoire for White and Black.........................6 Chapter 3: Positional Play...................................................9 Chapter 4: Tactical Play.....................................................11 Chapter 5: Piece Imbalances and Valuation......................13 Chapter 6: Technical End-Games......................................15 Chapter 7: Mind and Body................................................25 Chapter 8: Study................................................................32 About the Author.............................................33 Donations.........................................................34

Introduction
For various reasons, I have recently become interested in the idea of playing perfect, or near perfect chess. What is perfect chess? It is a style and approach to the game that affords us the greatest probability of victory while minimizing, or ideally, eliminating our probability of defeat. In the first chapter, I will go in to this subject in some detail, and set forth some guidelines to follow in the creation of a chess repertoire (openings and modes of play for both White and Black). In the second chapter, I will cover a proposed repertoire based on the guidelines from Chapter 1, and will hit the high-points of what advantages the suggested repertoire brings. The Chapters that follow will deal with all of the things you need to know to be a relatively complete chess player. To my mind, this means being able to sit down at a tournament chess game, and give players up to Grandmaster strength a run for their money. Included along with this book, is a file containing applicable games of the suggested repertoire, in PGN file format that can be viewed in any chess program capable of reading this popular format. Also included is a supplement of 700 chess problems designed specifically to increase your tactical acuity. If you study the structures of the games given, 4 you learn the rest of the book so that you have it down cold, and you follow all of the books recommendations, you are going to be one tough sucker to beat over the chessboard in either over-the-board, or Internet/online play. I sincerely hope that this book and its supplements add to your enjoyment of the game. Walter T. Downs February, 2011

Chapter 1: Perfect Chess

In an analysis of chess players, I have found that very few positional players are aggressive, and inversely, I have found that very few aggressive or tactical players care much for the positional points of the game. Interestingly, most openings seem to follow the suit of the players, as most positional openings are not very aggressive, and most aggressive openings do not offer many positional trumps, and in point of fact, may even be anti-positional in nature. Therefore, the first guideline I adopted was to try to find openings that were aggressive, but also offered the benefit of a strong positional basis as well. It stands to reason that such a guideline will afford those who use it with a decided advantage over those whose play is more onedimensional in nature. The next guideline I adopted was that the openings be somewhat universal in nature. I.e., the same moves, initially, and often, for many moves in to the game, wouldnt vary much regardless of what or how our opponent played. This guideline affords us a uniform method of play, and, in general, means that there is often very little theory, or long strings of strictly predetermined moves that are the bread and butter of so many opening books. Thus we will be lot less concerned with specific moves, and a lot more aware of the important themes 5 and structures of the openings we play. By playing this way, you will find that you will rarely be at a loss for a good move or a good plan, no matter what move your opponent plays, and in whatever order he plays it. The third guideline I adopted, was to develop a repertoire that would have tremendous psychological impact on our opponent. We want our opponent to be out of his comfort zone. The effect of this guideline will prove quite advantageous to you in your games. To paraphrase Sun Tzu, an ancient Chinese general renowned for his martial theories, if you can know and control the mind of your opponent, you will never lose in a thousand battles. The approach used in assembling the games you will be studying utilized two methods of generation. In the case of White, we have assembled a complete database of games of the Danish GM that originated the theory and who plays it best. In the case of Black, we culled our 4 million game database for only the best Black responses to all reasonable methods of play at Whites disposal, and are confident that the themes and structures shown in the games, affords Black very powerful positions. The rest of the book is a compilation of all the fundamentals you will need to play perfect chess according to our definitions, and make you a total chess killing machine.

Chapter 2: The Bear: A Complete Chess Repertoire for White and Black
Play as White As White, I have chosen for your consideration, a dangerous system created by Danish GM Henrik Danielsen, which he dubbed the Polar Bear. When I first saw this opening, which begins with the move 1.f4, I thought to myself, Well, this is just the Bird opening. Whats different about that? The difference lies in Danielsens new and aggressive treatment of the lines generated. Danielsen, an expert in the Dutch defense for Black, develops Whites opening scheme based on many Dutch motifs, which are directly transferable. Danielsens games in this line show a rare blend of positional power and dynamic tactics. Many of his games center around the Dutch Leningrad Reversed, where White Plays g3 and places the kings bishop on g2. Many theoreticians have claimed that in these lines, Whites extra move actually hurts him. However, Danielsen has shown repeatedly that White can often use his extra move to force through the freeing move e4. Analogously, it is well known that in the Dutch Defense, if Black can get in the move e5, he is almost always at least equal, and often, is much better. Danielsens reasoning is that you will often be much better in the Polar Bear, as this move is often readily attainable. A complete collection of Henrik Danielsens games with the Polar Bear are presented along with this book, in PGN format (As of the date of this publication.) Play through these games, paying particular attention to tactical and positional themes and motifs, as well as the structures that are involved. Move orders are quite flexible. Danielsen has amassed a tremendous plus score with the Polar Bear. The only losses he experienced seemed to be produced more by Danielsen just having an off day, than by any deficiencies of the Polar Bear. The Polar Bear meets all the requirements of the guidelines we set forth in the chapter on Perfect Play.

Play as Black As Black, I am now going to introduce you to a very powerful Black repertoire of my own invention, which I have dubbed the Black Bear. The Black Bear is not a single, regimented opening scheme, but a broader constellation of openings that are closely related to each other. Against the opening moves 1.e4, 1,d4 or 1.c4, Black responds with 1...a6! Against the opening move 1.Nf3, Black responds with 1...h6! We wont consider 1.f4, since as a Polar Bear player, you will know the Black set-ups that give this opening move the most problems. At this point, you are probably going to assume that I am mad, but you will find that the logic is very sound, and very effective. As an example, play against 1.d4 goes: 1.d4 a6! White is faced with his first dilemma. Now, the move 2.c4 is not good, as Black simply responds with 2...b5, and is already threatening to develop a good game. Many players of the white pieces will thus respond with 2.e4, as most 1.d4 players are quite happy to play against the St. George Defense (2...b5?!) As this is considered a dubious opening. Black now plays 2...c5!, which is commonly referred to as the Baker Defense of the St. George. However, we will be using this move 7

not to play the St. George, but to transpose to favorable variations of the Sicilian, French, Benoni or the dangerous Kurajica Defense. This is the second psychological shock that White has received in the first two moves of the game. Now he can respond by attempting to get to a Benoni, although the move order precludes many of Whites most effective plans against this defense, and Black is also able to throw a further monkey-wrench in to the works by adopting a set-up which is NOT a Benoni. White might also now admit to defeat of his d4 opening plan, and try to transpose to a simple Sicilian, however, as will be evidenced in the games you will be studying, Black doesnt have to acquiesce to this either, and can transpose in to highly original lines of play, or switch to a French defense or Kurajica Defense. This is the third shock White has received in the opening, and as you will see when you play over the games, many players simply cant recover from the this psychological beating, and often play quite poorly. Adopting this plan as Black, you will find that you will be able to gain favorable variations of the Sicilian, French, Kurajica, Super Benoni or original play that is quite favorable to you, almost at will. White players who play 1.e4 will invariably respond to 1...a6 with 2.d4, when once again, Black responds with 2...c5, and Whites problems are born again. 1.c4 will have the same problems.

This leaves us with 1.Nf3, when the logic of 1...h6! Proves quite powerful. In his book, The Killer Grob, Michael Basman makes the comments that h6 and g5 put 1.c4 openings out of business. However, the problem with the Grob, is that lines beginning with 1.c4 h6?! 2.d4 g5, can be met strongly with 3.h4!!, and in this scenario, the Grob is not a good opening. But things change with the move 1.Nf3. Invariably players who make this move are going to be aiming for some set-up where the move c4 is an integral part. Either they are aiming for a delayed queens pawn opening, or they are looking to play the English. Now, 1...h6! Is good, as the Grob set-up against the c4 openings is known to be good for Black, and an early attempt by White to break things up with the move h4, are met strongly by g4, when Black strikes at the knight with a gain of tempo. Further, with moves such as c4 and h4, where is White to castle? Often, from the positions that arise, Black winds up with either a super-accelerated Grunfeld, Kings Indian, Modern or Robatsch Defense, where the hyper-moves of h6 and g5, coupled with moves such as Bg7 and c5 or d5, leave White with no place to castle safely, and a shaky center which is already under attack within the first few moves. Along with this book, you are given an extensive group of games in PGN format, that will allow you to study the move nuances, themes, motifs and structures of the dangerous Black Bear repertoire.

Study these well, and White wont have a chance!

Chapter 3: Positional Play

Positional play is the Bogey-man of many chess players, who feel that it is beyond their understanding. However, this subject isnt really hard to grasp if you break it down. Positional play revolves around 3 key factors: 1. Pawn Structure 2. Squares 3. Piece Relationships Pawn Structure Much has been written on such things as doubled, backward or isolated pawns. Unfortunately, people have become so obsessed with never creating a pawn weakness, that, as GM Nigel Short says, they have forgotten that it is checkmate that ends the game. These types of damage to your pawn structure are only valid as disadvantages if 4 key factors are present: 1. The weaknesses can be readily attacked by your opponent. 2. You have attained no active counter-play to compensate for the weakness. 3. The pawns are not mobile, and cannot be easily dissolved. 4. The pawns do not defend key squares in your position from their vantage point. These factors are the guiding light to pawn play. If you can damage your opponents pawn structure, and all 4 factors are present, then you can consider this a true positional advantage. Without them, things may not be as clear as you think. Squares This concept of positional play is the most neglected and least understood, although it shouldnt be. Simply, any time you can control a group of squares it is good. The group might consist of a series of inter-connected diagonal squares (often controlled by bishops and/or queens), inter-connected squares on a rank or file (often controlled by queens and/or rooks), or squares in a color complex, such as controlling all of the white squares or all of the black squares in a position. Any time you control several groups of squares, you will often have a positional advantage.

Piece Relationships There are 3 types of piece relationships to consider: 1. How your pieces relate to the position. 2. How the opponents pieces relate to the position. 3. How your pieces relate to your opponents pieces. The guiding rule in relationship # 1, is that every single one of your pieces should either be attacking something in the opponents position, defending something in your own position, or both. No piece should ever be totally inactive, and ideally, no piece should ever be left on a square where it is not defended by some other piece. There is an old chess axiom that if even one piece in your position is bad (not performing one of the functions mentioned, or inactive or undefended), your whole position might be bad. Relationship #2 is analogous to relationship #1. Your opponent labors under the same guidelines as you do. Once several opening moves have been made, and opposing pieces begin to interact, the guiding rule of relationship #3 is domination. Your pieces dominate those of your opponents, when your pieces control more key squares (such as central squares, or those squares mentioned in the Squares section, or those squares that are important in the defense of your opponents position) in the position, or severely limit the scope of your opponents pieces (often by controlling the squares those pieces can move to). 10

When your pieces are dominant, you have a positional advantage. All these factors and relationships are the cornerstone of positional play. If you study them and adhere to them, you will be a strong positional player.

Chapter 4: Tactical Play

The most popular approach to tactical play, according to just about everyone who has ever written a book on tactics, is to study and learn tactical patterns. At last count, these theorists were espousing a minimum of at least 15 patterns you had to learn and be familiar with. This is all well and good, but I believe there is a simpler and more effective method. I call this method the Theory of Interaction. The Theory of Interaction ( TOI ) After your opponent moves, ask yourself, What is the threat? Threats must be calculated to see if the threat is real and must be met, or is not real and can be ignored. If no threats are present then proceed with the following: The TOI states that most tactical combinations are missed because the pattern is unfamiliar to the player, or in most cases, the player simply doesnt consider the move at all! The cure for this is to simply calculate every move that interacts with the opposing forces. I.e., any move that captures a piece or attacks a piece in the enemy camp. The hierarchy of calculation is implemented in the following order. 1. Moves that give check. 2. Moves that capture an opposing piece. 3. Moves that attack an opposing piece. You will find, in calculating the points of interaction, that you can often dispense with most moves with a calculation depth of 2 or 3 moves, and that you will rarely have to consider any move sequence past a depth of 5 moves. All calculation can end, if you find a combination that gives mate, or wins material without giving any compensation to the opponent (Dont just win material if it is going to give your opponent an active position or strong attacking chances.). Overall Mode of Play 70% of all tournament games are decided by tactics (Checkmate or the winning of material), therefore, tactics are king. Moves of a positional nature are considered only after the tactics of the position have been calculated. Tactics is knowing what to do when there is something to do. Strategy is knowing what to do when there is nothing to do. Tartakower

11

You will find that, with practice, you will be able to calculate all points of interaction in well under 2 minutes, which is the average length of time you are given per move in a tournament game (40 moves in 2 hours, 20 moves in 1 hour....etc). The Theory of Interaction is actually somewhat similar to the modes of calculation suggested by Kotov, in his classic, Think Like a Grandmaster, in which he espouses the calculation of all important variations to the point of a complete solution. However, the Theory of Interaction is more precise, and less ambiguous than Kotov, in specifying exactly, the moves to be calculated, and to what depth you should be calculating them. By utilizing the Theory of Interaction, you will rarely miss a tactical shot.

12

Chapter 5: Piece Imbalances and Valuation

Valuation of Imbalances1 Bishop vs. Knight An unpaired bishop and knight are of equal value. Positional considerations will decide which piece is better. Knights are better with 12 or more pawns on the board. Bishops are better with 8 pawns or less on the board. The bishop is a bit better than the knight when fighting against a rook or against multiple pawns in an end-game. The Bishop Pair The bishop pair has an value of an additional half a pawn (more when the opponent has no minor pieces to exchange for one of the bishops). It is worth losing a tempo to save the bishop pair, but it is reasonable to give up the bishop pair if you can gain two tempi by doing so. If you have the bishop pair, and your opponent's bishop is hemmed in by his own pawns, you already have compensation for a pawn. If most of your opponent's pawns are fixed on one color and you both still have both bishops, it is worth losing a pawn to trade a knight for his "good" bishop. When the side down the exchange has the bishop pair, the exchange is worth 1.15 pawns. The value of winning the exchange is influenced by two factors. First of all, the presence of more major pieces on the board favors the minor piece. In general, with no major pieces traded, the exchange value drops to 1 pawns, and if the minor side has the bishop pair just one pawn makes things even. But with queens and a pair of rooks gone, the exchange is worth slightly more than its nominal value of two pawns, or about 1 when opposed by the bishop pair. Also important is the number of pawns on the board, especially when the minor piece is the knight. With most of the pawns on the board the exchange is worth less; each pawn trade helps the rook. Rooks need open files! Bishop or Knight Versus 3 Pawns As long as there are other pieces on the board (so minimum mating material is not a major issue), the minor piece is worth about 3 pawns. Winning the Exchange Now let's move on to discuss the exchange of a rook for knight or unpaired bishop. Research puts its average value squarely at 1 pawns for the side that is up the exchange.

As analyzed by GM Larry Kaufman, in his article Piece Imbalances, published in many places on the Internet. 13

If you have a rook for a knight and two pawns, even though you are nominally a quarter pawn behind in material, you should try very hard to exchange major pieces.

Piece Relationships to Pawns Rooks gain in value with every pawn exchange because rooks need open files to be effective. Knights lose relative value with each pawn exchange, as their value diminishes in open positions. Average Piece Valuation: Pawn = 1 Bishop pair = + pawn Rook = 5 Bishop = 3 Knight = 3 Queen = 9

Two Minor Pieces Versus Rook and Pawns All of the above applies with even more force to the case of two minor pieces vs. rook and pawns; the side with the rook should trade major pieces, even if he is a bit behind in material. Rook + 2 pawns vs. a bishop pair is equal. Rook + 1 pawn vs. other minor piece pairs is + 1 pawns. The Queen When not opposed by the bishop pair, the queen is worth rook, minor piece, and 1 pawns. The side without the queen wants to keep the extra rooks if possible. Queen Versus Two Rooks With two or more minor pieces each, the queen needs no pawns to equal two rooks. Queen Versus 3 Minor Pieces 3 minor pieces versus a queen are worth a half-pawn more than the queen, unless the 3 minors does not include the bishop pair, in which case, things are even.

14

Chapter 6: Technical End-Games

Piece Characteristics Pawns Queen Doubled, backward or isolated pawns are almost always an inferior aspect in end-games. Bishops and Knights Fixed or immobile pawns are bad for a bishop, and good for a knight. Pawns on only one wing favors knights. Pawns on both wings favors bishops. Four pawns or less favors bishops. Six pawns or more favors knights. A bishop pair is even stronger if no rooks are on the board. Rooks If pawns are on one wing only, this favors knights and diminishes the power of rooks. If there are pawns on both wings this favors rooks and bishops. If you have rooks + pieces versus Queen + rook, keep your rooks and exchange the pieces. Rook + bishop is better than rook + knight. A queen versus a rook and piece requires a target rich environment for the queen to be better. Lots of targets like weak pawns...etc. King In the end-game, the King is often an attacking piece, generally considered worth 4 pawns. Hierarchy of End-Game Mobilization In general, mobilize forces in the following order: queens, rooks, kings, bishops and knights, pawns. Hierarchy of Piece Combinations Rook + bishop > rook + knight Queen + knight > queen + bishop. Less than five pawns: Two bishops > two knights or bishop and knight. More than five pawns: two knights > two bishops.

15

End-Game Praxis What follows is a compilation of end-game praxis that is considered to be sufficient to play an entire game of chess. Get to know it by heart. Knowledge of the praxis given, should give you the end-game knowledge equivalent of a strong International Master.

King and Pawn End-Games Basic Opposition

sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds sdsdsdsd dsdsisds sdsdPdsd dsdsIsds sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds

Can White win? 1...Ke6 2.Kf4 Kf6 3.e5+ Ke6 4.Ke4 Ke7 5.Kf5 Kf7 6.e6+ Ke7 7.Ke5 Ke8 8.Kd6 Kd8 9.e7+ Ke8 10.Ke6....stalemate. Black was able to draw because he had the opposition. I.e., Black was able to place his king on squares that prevented White from making progress. Distant Opposition If kings are on the same file, rank or diagonal, the player on the move can gain distant opposition by moving towards the opposing king so that there are an odd number of squares between them. For kings that are on different files, ranks or diagonals, the player with the move gains distant opposition by moving towards the opposing king and on to the square color that is the same as the color square on which the opposing king resides.

sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds ssdsdkdsds dsdsdsds sdsdsdsd dsdsIsds sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds

In this position, the side to move gains the opposition by either 1.Ke4, or 1...Ke5. You can see that the other side cannot move forward, and must give ground, allowing his opponent to advance.

16

Sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds sdsdsdsd dsdsisds sdsdsdsd dsdsIsds sdsdPdsd dsdsdsds

In games of this sort, the salient factors are if the player with the pawn can get his king in front of his pawn, and who has the opposition. With White to move, 1.Kf3 Kf5 2.Ke3 Ke5 3.Kd3 Kd5 draw...With Black to move, 1...Kf5 2.Kd4 Ke6 3.Ke4 Kf6 4.Kd5 Ke7 5.Ke5 Kd7 6.Kf6 Ke8 7.Ke6 Kf8 8.e4 Ke8 9.e5 Kf8 10.Kd7 Kf7 11.e6+ and White wins If the side with the pawn can ever get his king two squares in front of the pawn, it is always a win.

Fox in the Chicken Coup

sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds sdkdsdpd dsdsds)p sIPdsds) dsdsdsds sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds

In the diagram from the previous page, Black must eventually take Whites c pawn, leaving the White king free to scoop up the other Black pawns: 1.c5 Kc7 2.Kb5 Kb7 3.c6+ Kc7 4.Kc5 Kc8 5.Kd6 Kd8 6.Ke6 Kc7 7.Kf6 Kxc6 8.Kxg6 Kd7 9.Kxh5 and wins... Pawn Freeze

Sdsdkdsd dsdsdsds sdsdKdsd dsdsdsds sdsdPdsd

White will gain the opposition and win

sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds sisds0sd 0sdsdsds Kdsdsdsd dsdsdP)s sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds

The correct move here is 1.g4 with a draw. However, 1.f4?? f5!! freezes Whites pawns, and 2.Ka3 Kc5 3.Ka4 Kd4 4.Kxa5 Ke4!! 5.Kd4 Kf3 6.Kc3 Kxg3 7.Kd3 Kxf4 wins for Black. 17

Trebuchet

dpI k)s
Whoever has the move, must leave the defense of his pawn, and the pawn is lost.

Triangulation is a maneuver designed to give your opponent the move, and as a result, you the opposition. 1.Kg2 f3+ 2.Kf2 Kf5 3.Kxf3 and wins. Outflanking Maneuver Outflanking is a maneuver where the stronger sides king moves to the side, placing a file between the kings. This allows the outflanking king to march forward towards the target, without allowing the opponents king to step in front and take direct opposition. From the position, White reaches a8, b8 or c8 by force:

Sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds sdsdsdpd dsdpdsIs sds)sdsd iPdsdsds sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds

1.Kxg6 Kxb3 2.Kf5 Kc3 3.Ke5 Kc4, and Black wins Triangulation

Sdsdsdsi dsdsdsds sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds sdsdsdsd dsdsdsdK

1.Kh2 Kg8 2.Kg2 Kf8 3.Kf2 Ke8 4.Ke2 Kd8 5.Kd2 Kc8 6.Kc2 Kb8 7.Kb2 Ka8 8.Kc3 Kb7 9.Kb3 Kc7 10.Ka4 Kb6 11.Kb4 Ka6 12.Kc5 Kb7 13.Kb5 Kc7 14.Ka6 Kb8 15.Kb6 Kc8 16.Ka7 and a8 next move. This exercise teaches triangulation, opposition and outflanking.

sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds sdsdkdpd dsdpds)p sds)s0s) ds)sdsds sdsdsIsd dsdsdsds

18

Minor Piece End-Games Bishop + Rook Pawn vs. Lone King If the bishop is on the same color as the queening square of the rook pawn, the game is a win. If the bishop in on the opposite color of the rook pawn queening square, the game is drawn, as the opponents king can not be driven from the queening square. Knight + Rook Pawn vs. Lone King This end game is usually a win, with the following exception: Bishop of Opposite Color vs. Bishop + 2 Pawns If the pawns are one file apart, the game is drawn:

sdsisdnd dsdsdsds sdsdsdK0 dsdsdsds

This position is drawn, as Black can not force the White king from h1 or g2. Two Bishops vs. Lone King Place the bishops on adjacent diagonals. This traps the opponents king in one sector of the board. Continually shrink the diagonal box. Chase the defending king in to a corner, and then deliver mate.

sdsdsdsd dsdsisds sdsdPdsd dsdsdsIs sdBdsdPd dsgsdsds sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds

1.Kh6 Bb2 2.g5 Bc3 3.g6 Kf8 4.Kg5 Bb2 5.Kf5 Bc3 6.Ke4 Bb2 7.Kd5 Ke7, White makes no headway: Draw.

In general, if the pawns are more than one file apart, it is a win. However, the defending side can still draw if his bishop can freeze both pawns:

19

sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds sds)sdkd dsdsdsds sdsGKdsd dsdsds)b sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds

Both pawns are advancing to white squares, so the White bishop can not help in their advance. The Black bishop covers both squares the pawns can advance to, simultaneously, and Blacks king simply follows the White king back and forth, stopping and progress. It can also be a drawn game, if one of the pawns is a rook pawn and has a queening square of the same color as the defending bishop.

1.Kg5 Kd6 2.Kh6 Kc6 3.Kh7 Kb7 4.g7 Ka8 5.g8 = Q Bxg8 6.Kxg8....draw. If the pawns are connected, the defending side can draw by attacking the pawns and driving them forward, and always tying the attacking king to the defense of a pawn.

sdsdsdsd dsdsds0s sdsds0sd dsdsdsdk sGbdsdsd dsdsdsIs sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds

1...Kg5 2.Bf8 g6 3.Be7 Kf5 4.Bd8 Ke6 5.Kf4, and Black must advance his pawns, which leads to positions like the diagram on the next page.

Sdsdsdsd dsdkdsds sdsdsdPd )sdbdsds sdsdsdKd dsGsdsds sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds

sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds sdsdsdsd dsdkdsds sds0pdbd dsdsdsds sdsIsGsd dsdsdsds

20

This position is dead drawn. Any time Black tries something fancy with his king, White just attacks a pawn, forcing the king back. Bishop of the Same Color vs. Bishop + Pawn A bishop, rook, or knight pawn is a win. A queen or king pawn is a draw, if the defending king is nearby. In the diagram, Black draws because his king and bishop cover the d7 square. Whites king must defend the pawn and Black will never run out of tempi, since he can shuffle his bishop back and forth.

Rook End-Games The Lucena Position

SdsIsdsd dsds)sds sdsisdsd dBdsdsdb sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds

sdsdKdsd dsds)sis sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds sdsds$sd dsdrdsds

1.Rg2+ Kh7 2.Rg4!(This is referred to as building the bridge.) Rd2 3.Kf7 Rf2+ 4.Ke6 Re2+ 5.Kf6 Rf2+ 6.Ke5 Re2+ 7.Re4 and wins. The Lucena works for center, knight and bishop pawns. For rook pawns, the defending king must be at least four files away.

21

The Philidor Position

Rook vs. Rook + Two Connected Pawns 1. Advance your pawns together. They will defend each other and can also provide shelter for the king. Keep your king and pawns in close contact. Make sure your pawns can shield the king from checks. Push the enemy king back, making sure the first 3 considerations are met. With the defending king on the back rank, move your rook (Which should be on the 7th rank.) A couple of files to the side of your pawns. Place both pawns on the 6th rank. Move your king to the 7th rank.

sdsds$sd dsdkds4s sdsdsdsd dsIPdsds sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds

1...Rg6! 2.Rf7+ Kd8 3.Ra7 Rf6 4.d6 Rf1! Draws. White can not avoid the checks. The key with the Philidor is to not let the king advance, force the pawn to advance, and there is no shelter for the attacking king from perpetual check. Another Rook End-Game to Remember

2.

3.

4.

5.

6. 7.

sisdsds4 dsdsdsds s)sdsdsd dKdsdsds sdsdsdRd dsdsdsds sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds

This Black position against a rook or knight pawn is always drawn. Black just shuffles his king or rook back and forth, and there is no way White can break through. 22

8.

Give check with your rook, on the 8th rank, which forces an exchange of rooks, and now your pawns will win.

The Golden Rules of Rook End-Games: 1. Keep your rooks active!! 2. Rooks belong behind passed pawns, whether your own, or your adversarys.

Queen End-Games Queen vs. Pawn on the 7th Rank A queen against the c,f,a or h pawns is a draw, due to the stalemate possibilities, unless the attackers king just happens to be very advantageously placed.

Sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds sdsdsdsd dsdsds!s sdsds0sd dsdsdsis

1...Kh1!! Draws, as Qxf2 is stalemate.

sdsdsdsd IQdsdsds sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds pdsdsdsd isdsdsds

A possible exception to the rule. White wins with 1.Kb6 Kb2 2.Kc5+ Kc2 3.Qg2+ Kb1 4.Kb4 a1 = Q 5.Kc3, and White wins due to Qf2 mate, or loss of the queen. A queen against the b, g,d or e pawns on the 7th rank, is a win for the side with the queen. The opponents king is forced in front of the pawn, and the attacker can now move his king over and win the pawn.

23

Fortresses When you hold a weaker position in game, or are down material, always be aware of the possibility of building a fortress. A fortress is a position that your opponent can not penetrate:

sdsdsdsd dsdbisds sdsdsdsd dsdsdrds s)s!s)sd dsdsIsds sdsdsdsd dsdsdsds

In this position, Black has created an impregnable fortress. The rook and bishop prevent the pawns from advancing, and the attacking king can not penetrate. It is a draw.

24

Chapter 7: Mind and Body

Of course, our games are not played by computers, but by us. We as humans can tend to be a bit fragile physically and/or psychologically, and thus, our game may suffer. The Body Connection First, we will consider the physical body, as basic physical well-being is required to play chess optimally. Daily Exercise Quota Always get at least 8 hours of sleep per night. A 20 minute brisk walk, or if youre not capable, a 40 minute, more leisurely walk, is recommended. Daily Diet 1 cup of Ginko/Green Tea decaffeinated tea taken any time during the day, or with meals if stomach sensitive. (I recommend the Triple Leaf brand, which can be gotten at http://www.vitacost.com/ A 6 month supply will cost you about $40.00) Drink eight, 8 ounce glasses of water per day, or as much as you can possibly stand. Eat three moderate meals per day. Lots of brightly colored steamed vegetables, especially any green vegetable. a baked potato (with non-fat, cholesterol free-margarine and imitation fat-free bacon bits if you must). OR Brown non-processed rice. If you feel this is too stringent, once every week, take one day and eat what-ever you want. Night-time Snacks Plain popcorn (with non-fat, cholesterol-free margarine if you must). Lunch and Dinner 3 ounces of broiled skinless chicken, fish or lean beef. Breakfast 1 cup of fruit. 1 slice whole-wheat plain toast or 1 cup granola or other sugar-free, high fiber cereal, with fat-free milk or apple-juice.

25

Indulgences You can have one bar of sugar-free milk or dark chocolate. (with raisins, is ok, but no nuts.)

Check with your doctor before taking 5-Hour Energy if

You are currently taking any prescription medicines. You have been advised by your physician to avoid stimulants or caffeine.

Intake on Game Days Avoid any heavy or large meals before a game. Eat a light sensible meal. (Consider the above breakfast menu or the Lunch and Dinner menu in proportions.) NO SUGAR!!! Game Time
http://www.5hourenergy.com/ You have a medical condition that makes you concerned about taking it. You are concerned about taking it for any reason.

For further information:

Five minutes before game time, imbibe one 5hour ENERGY drink (regular). This is a 3 ounce liquid shot, that is zero sugar, zero herbal stimulants, 4 calories B-vitamins and amino acids and as much caffeine as a cup of the leading premium coffee, so it doesnt break any of the laws of intake before a tournament chess game (Still, imbibe it outside the tournament hall to avoid any possible hassles.) The key ingredients in 5hour ENERGY are also available in every day foods like broccoli, avocados, bananas and apples or already in you. This drink can be obtained at almost all grocery stores or pharmacies. Who should not take 5-Hour Energy? Women who are pregnant or nursing. Children under 12 years of age. People diagnosed with phenylketonuria (PKU).

If you have any reservations, about 5 hour Energy, then instead, eat a bar of sugar-free dark chocolate before the game, and take an extra to nibble on during the game. Always take a bottle of water to your games. It is important to remain well-hydrated during play.

26

The Mind Connection

FOR EXAMPLE: Now we come to the more tricky subject of your mental processes and game psychology. The major complaint of most chess-players is an inability to concentrate and to calculate and/or remember variations. Memory and Calculation Memory and calculation can be handled simply. Study and solve puzzles from the Study Supplement you received with this book, or from the sources mentioned in the Supplemental Training section. A minimum of two hours a week is suggested, and more, if you have the time. Never let more than six days go by without a study session. (By the way, by employing the Algorithm of Play, and calculating every possible move in the Primary Chains, you will notice that you can solve any chess puzzle usually in under 2 minutes, and any combination from actual games in under 1 minute.) Concentration To concentrate fully during a game, it is first necessary to train the ability. Practice the following as often as you can: BE HERE NOW This deceptively simple strategy is probably the most effective. When you notice your thoughts wandering astray, say to yourself "Be here now" and gently bring your attention back to where you want it. On a piece of paper, draw a small, yet visible, dot, and start staring and concentrating on the dot for 60 seconds. Start taking deep breaths while staring and for a short time after you have finished staring at the dot.. You should now find an increase in your concentration power. You're performing a mental activity (studying a chess position), and your mind begins to wander. Say mentally to yourself, "Be here now" you focus back on the position and maintain your attention there as long as possible. When it wanders again, repeat "Be here now" You might do this hundreds of times a week, if you're normal. But, you'll find that the period of time between your straying thoughts gets a little longer every few days. So be patient and keep at it. You'll see improvement! SPECIFIC TIME Humans tend to do what they tell themselves to do. Therefore, its easier to concentrate if you set a specific length of time to study and consciously tell yourself that I will concentrate for that length of time.

THE DOT TRICK

27

THE COUNT METHOD Count backwards from 100 in various types of segments(2, 4, 6...etc). At the end, reverse the process and count from 1 up to 100 in various segments. CUPPING You can actually cup your hands around your own eyes. This may serve as a trigger to tell your mind to focus on a particular responsibility. For example, you are in a room and you need to study but there are many things preventing you from concentrating. Cupping your hands around your eyes may help your brain switch to focus mode and keep it on its track. KNEE TO ELBOW You can stimulate your left and right cerebral hemispheres by touching your right elbow to your left-knee and then doing the same for the left-elbow/right-knee. Do this three times. FOCUS Before you begin studying (or beginning play in a game of chess), take a few minutes to summarize a few objectives (opening and plan of play), gather what you will need, and think of a general strategy of accomplishment FIGURE EIGHTS On a large piece of paper taped to the wall, draw large sideways figure 8s (the infinity symbol) over and over with the right hand, the left hand, and both hands. If you don't have paper, do the drawing motion in the air (Dont do this at the chessboard. People will think you are nuts. Draw the 8's on your knee under 28

the table.) Start drawing really large sideways figure 8s and continue making the figure smaller and smaller until you are drawing really tiny Figures. You are then ready to begin mental activity, or any task that requires concentration. Anytime you feel you are losing concentration, stop the work and do figure 8 exercise again. This exercise can also be done with closed eyes by imagining drawing figure 8's. This exercise helps to activate both the right and left visual fields and hence makes the brain more focused. FIRST AND LAST TIME Do something as if for first or last time: We take a lot of everyday things for granted and do not observe as intently as we should. In order to develop focus and observation, try to look at tasks which you do everyday as if you are doing or seeing them for the first or the last time. This will encourage you to observe details which you may have missed before, thus improving your observation, concentration and also in gaining new insights. UNNECESSARY MOVEMENT Avoid unnecessary movements: Stop all useless gestures and movements of the body. These mean that you have not proper control over your body. After you have acquired this control, notice how "ill-at-ease" people are that have not gained this control.

Watch people and see how many of them make unnecessary movements and lack poise. Get rid of any habit you have of twitching or jerking any part of your body. You will find you make many involuntary movement. You can quickly stop any of these by merely centering your attention on the thought, "I will not." The purpose of the above exercises is to gain control over the involuntary muscular movement, making your actions entirely voluntary. POISE Watch yourself during the day and see that your muscles do not become tense or strained. See how easy and relaxed you can keep yourself. See how poised you can be at all times. Cultivate a self-poised manner, instead of a nervous, strained appearance. This mental feeling will improve your carriage and demeanor. HOLD A THOUGHT Select some thought (chess position) and see how long you can hold your mind on it. It is nice to have a clock at first and keep track of the time. Make it a daily habit of concentrating on this thought for, maybe ten minutes. Practice doing this until you can hold it to the exclusion of everything else. You might have to do this exercise regularly for 10 days or more in order to sharpen your concentration skills. The time you can hold concentration will begin to lengthen.

EXPRESS A MOTIF No one can think without first concentrating his thoughts on the subject on hand. Every man and woman should train himself to think clearly. An excellent exercise is to read an article in a newspaper, (or look at a chess position) and see in how few words you can express it. Reading an article (studying a position) to get only the essentials requires the closest concentration. If you are unable to write out (or express succinctly) what you read, you will know you are weak in concentration. Instead of writing it out you can express it orally if you wish. You will find exercises like this of the greatest value in developing concentration and learning to think. Study parts of this book (any section) for twenty minutes and then write down, in your own words, what you have read. The chances are that at first you will not remember very many details, but with a little practice you will be able to write a very good account of what you have read. The closer the concentration the more accurate the account will be. If time is limited to read only one axiom in the classical and modern chess theory, or Knowledge Base section. Write it down word for word. When you are able to do this, read two axioms/precepts and treat similarly. The practice will produce very good results if you keep it up until the habit is fixed.

29

BEAT THE CLOCK It can be obtained at: Sit in a chair and place a clock with a second hand on the table. Follow the second hand with your eyes as it goes around. Keep this up for five minutes, thinking of nothing else but the second hand, This is a very good exercise when you only have a few minutes to spare, if you are able to keep every other thought in the stream of consciousness subordinate to it. As there is little that is particularly interesting about the second hand, it is hard to do this, but in the extra effort of will power required to make it successful lies its value. Always try to keep as still as possible during these exercises. http://www.musicmefree.com/page_single_d ownloads.php EXTREME FOCUS $5.00 25 Minutes MP3 During the game, on your MP3 player, play the following music to create and maintain concentration. Coming Into Focus 5:25 192 kbps $0.09 03 Powers Of Concentration 4:51 $0.09 04 In The Zone 5:41 192 kbps $0.09 05 Think 5:04 192 kbps $0.09 06 Total Lucidity 5:23 192 kbps $0.09 07 Balance 5:25 192 kbps $0.09 08 The Settled Mind These can be obtained for the price listed, at: http://www.legalsounds.com/download-mp3 /david-bradstreet-%26-john-herberman/musi c-to-enhance-concentration/album_87139 Legalsounds asks for a $25.00 deposit against future purchases. OR if you dont think you will ever purchase any additional music, and dont want to spend $25.00, go to: http://www.amazon.com/Music-To-Enhance -Concentration/dp/B002HH5W9S/ref=sr_1_ 3?ie=UTF8&qid=1295245203&sr=8-3 You can buy the whole Concentration album which includes two or three additional tracks to the ones mentioned, for $9.00

TAKE IT TO THE MAX Do a thing wholeheartedly. If you approach something half-heartedly, it can show in the quality of your thought processes. In order to do things better, do them with interest. Whatever you are doing, try to find some aspect of it that interests you. If you can find something interesting in each thing you do, you can enjoy even the most mundane and boring tasks. (This is why I mention some alternatives of play if you ever get bored of just playing the straight Tiger or Dragon (See Games Analysis Section)). GAME DAY 45 minutes before the game, on an MP3 player listen to EXTREME FOCUS. This is a 25 minute segment of music. This session stimulates SAR in the right brain hemisphere and Beta in the left. It is ideal to help focus the mind before a mentally strenuous task. It is based on the ADD research from psychologist Michael Joyce and David Sever. 30

Game Notation
It is recommended that you obtain either a MonRoi electronic notation device, or a PDA with the E-Notate electronic notation software, that can be obtained from the North American Chess Association. http://www.monroi.com/ or http://www.nachess.org/ WHEN YOU SIT DOWN TO PLAY A GAME OF CHESS, DONT FORGET TO BRING YOUR GAME!! Any time you sit down to play a game of chess, you should have in mind the following psychology: 1. Play with confidence. If you have practiced everything I preach in this book, you are by now an awesome chess powerhouse. 2. Play to win. Worry about draws when your opponent offers you one. 3. Have the attitude of, I will do what I want, no matter what you do. 4. Be the Puppet-Master, not the puppet! 5. Meet every move by your opponent with scepticism (or scorn if you want). Challenge all his ideas. Responding to a fake threat is like stopping an opponent from losing the game. 6. If an obvious plan conforms to the position, follow it. 9. Before playing a move, ask, What wonderful thing does this move do for my position?. If you cant answer this question, you are playing the wrong move. 10. In all cases of logic versus fear, you must follow logic. 11. Material gain or loss is just another type of imbalance. The total play of the position is what matters. 12. Material inequalities cause psychological paralysis. You will probably see quite a few with the Tiger and Dragon. Embrace them. Let your opponent cower in fear. 13. Fear no aspect of the game. (With this book, you will never have to.) 14. If your opponent is in time pressure, do not speed up your moves. Take your time and find the best move. The best move is always the move that sets the most problems for your opponent to solve. 15. If you are lost, put yourself in your opponents shoes, and play the move that you would least like to see if you were him. Fight to the bitter death, and never give up! 7. Concentrate fully on the game. On your move, build Chains and calculate tactics in the Primary Chains. On his time, study the overall aspects of the position, and consider various strategies. 8. Always expect your opponent to make the strongest move possible to him, and play accordingly.

31

Chapter 8: Study
Study the games that are given in PGN format, along with this book. The games of Henrik Danielsen comprise the Polar Bear and represent our repertoire as White. The games in the Black Bear file represent our repertoire as Black, and you will find yourself playing either a Sicilian, French, Kurajica, Super-Benoni, Super-Grunfeld, SuperModern, Super-Robatsch or unique opening. Study these games intensely. It is not necessary to remember moves past move 3 or 4, but it is vitally important that you have a deep understanding of the themes, motifs and structures that can occur in these games. There is also a supplement of 700 chess puzzles supplied with this book so that you can practice your tactics. Make sure to utilize the Theory of Interaction in your calculations. This book was selected because it also has a large number of Self-mates; positions where you force the opponent to mate you in the least number of moves. This type of puzzle is important to study, because it allows you to be able to de-construct combinations, and move the move-orders back and forth. This is an important attribute to have when considering combinations.

32

About the Author

Walter T. Downs holds advanced degrees in mathematics and complex systems. He is an independent systems analyst who has worked primarily in the aerospace industry and financial markets. He is a also a member of the International High I.Q. Society. He can be contacted at: walt123@verizon.net

33

Donations Gladly Accepted

If you liked this book, please consider making a donation. I know it will take a few minutes of your time, but even a dollar or two would be very helpful. Your money will be used to fund future projects like this one. You can make a donation to my PayPal account (e-mail) at: walt123@verizon.net Specify the donation as the transfer of money to friend.... Thank-you for your support.

34