Twirly Skirt

The twirly skirt is all about inspiration. It will inspire people who have never knitted before, to knit. It will inspire people who have knitted their fair share of scarves and blankets, to move out of their comfort zone. And it will especially inspire little girls to twirl while wearing the skirt. The twirly skirt is so easy and rewarding to make and even more fun to wear. Our daughters love the twirliness and cant stop spinning when they wear it (they get dizzy!). The skirt can also double as a poncho. Knit it in a bigger size and the lucky recipient can use it as a poncho for two years, then as a skirt for another two years. Talk about getting your wear out of it!!! The shirts are just darling. They take so little time to make and the results are priceless. All the appliqus are made out of I-cords (see instructions below) and hand sewn on to plain white t-shirts.

materials

1 ball Brown Sheep Cotton Fleece in Pink-a-Boo (A) 1 ball Brown Sheep Cotton Fleece in Tea Rose (B) 1 ball Brown Sheep Cotton Fleece in Provincial Rose (C) 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) ball(s) Brown Sheep Cotton Fleece in Candy Apple (D) Pair of size US 6 14 knitting needles (see notes below)

gauge size

20 sts and 28 rows = 4 square measured over st st using US 6 needles US 6 double-pointed needles for I-cord 2 (4, 6, 8, 10) - child sizes

finished measurements
Waist: 16 (20, 23, 26, 29 ) Length: 10 (12, 14, 16, 18)

a barefootknit pattern go to www.barefootknits.com for more information on barefootknits

front & back

Cast on 42 (50, 58, 66, 74) sts with A. Beginning with a k row, continue in st st for four rows ending with a p row. K two rows (this creates the upper fold over edge). Next row (rs): k. Next row (ws): p. Next row (rs): For front piece (drawstring hole row): k 17 (21, 25, 29, 33), ssk, yo, k4, yo, k2tog, k to end. For back piece: k. Both sides continue: Beginning with a p row, continue in st st for 2 (3, 3 , 4, 4 ) from the upper fold over edge ending with a p row. Next row (hole row): join in B, k2, yo repeat to last 2 sts, k2. There will now be 62 (74, 86, 98, 110) sts. Beginning with a p row, continue in st st for 2 (3, 3 , 4, 4 ) from the hole row, ending with a p row. Next row (hole row): join in C, k2, yo repeat to last 2 sts, k2. There will now be 92 (110, 128, 146, 164) sts. Beginning with a p row, continue in st st for 2 (3, 3 , 4, 4 ) from the hole row, ending with a p row. Next row (hole row): join in D, k2, yo repeat to last 2 sts, k2. There will now be 137 (164, 191, 218, 245) sts. Beginning with a p row, continue in st st for 2 (3, 3 , 4, 4 ) from the hole row, ending with a p row. Next two rows: k (this creates the lower hem edge). Beginning with a k row, continue in st st for four rows ending with a p row. Cast off.

I-cord

Using US 6 double-pointed needles, cast on 4 stitches. Knit all stitches. Switch needles so that the needle with the stitches is in your left hand. Slide stitches to other end of needle and knit this row. Continue switching needles, sliding yarn and knitting stitches until the desired length is reached (to fit around waist with enough length to tie a knot). I have a confession to make all my I-cords are made using Embellish Knits! (a hand-crank mechanical I-cord maker). I do this for two reasons the machine makes perfect I-cords and I can make a lot of I-cords in a little amount of time. Embellish Knits! can be found at many fabric and craft stores.

finishing notes

Join side seams. Fold over upper edge and sew in place to form casing. Thread I-cord through casing to form drawstring. Fold over lower hem edge and sew in place.

This pattern starts off with a smaller amount of stitches and gradually increases to a much larger amount. Working with a large number of stitches on straight needles can be uncomfortable to work with. If you find this to be the case, I suggest using circular needles, especially for the larger sizes.

a barefootknit pattern go to www.barefootknits.com for more information on barefootknits