Water quality management in freshwater Aquariums

for culture and breeding of aquarium fish

Dr. Subhendu Datta

Senior Scientist

Tap water is supplied for one

purpose - human consumption. It is
carefully screened, cleaned,
treated with prophylactic chemicals
and pumped into our homes for our
use. It does not, however, carry a
guarantee that it is suitable for
fishkeeping. (Courtesy, The
Encyclopedia of Tropical Aquarium
Fish; Dick Mills and Dr. Gwynne
Vevers; Tetra Press; page 24).

Water Chemistry: The Basics

Learning about water chemistry is often avoided by most aquarium

owners, but by knowing just the basics of water chemistry, you can
greatly improve your success in rearing healthy fish.
Most aquarium owners are aware that the quality of water
has a direct impact on the health of their fish. But many aquarium owners do not understand
the basic internal chemistry of their fish's water, nor do they understand how to correctly or
safely adjust it. Until the basics of water chemistry are mastered and some common water
maintenance techniques are learned, it will be difficult to maintain a healthy and safe
environment for the fish in your tank.
The water quality is by far the single most important factor in the health of your fish,
and the more you know, the better job you will do. This article provides a brief overview that
is just the bare minimum that aquarium owners should know and understand.

pH

Every aquarium owner has heard of pH, but many do not understand the importance of
controlling it. pH is the measure of acidity or alkalinity in the water. The
pH scale is from 1 to 14. A pH of 7 is neutral, which basically means the
water is not acid or alkaline. As the scale goes down, for example 6, the
water becomes more acidic. As the pH goes up, for example 8, the water
gets more alkaline. One very important part of the pH scale that most
people do not understand is that it is a logarithmic scale. What this means
1
is that the pH changes at a tenfold level between each number. For example, a pH of 5 is 10
times more acidic than a pH of 6, and a pH of 4 is 100 times more acidic than a ph of 6. So if
your fish are supposed to be at a pH of 7, and the water level is 8, they are in water that is 10
times more alkaline than what they should be. If the pH is 9, then they are in water that is 100
times more alkaline than what they need. So it is easy to see why even a small change in
required pH is stressful and potentially fatal to fish.
These examples really emphasize the importance in matching your fish closely to the
expected pH level of your water and then closely monitoring the pH. Putting a fish that
requires a pH of 8 with a fish that requires a pH of 6 is just not a good idea because one or
both will be at a very unacceptable level of pH and will be under a great deal of stress.
There are several different ways to influence your water's pH. There are chemical
additives that can be added directly to the water that will either raise or lower the pH. More
natural agents can be used to alter water pH as well. Peat in the tank or filter will acidify the
water. Mineral salts like calcium that are found in limestone or in some shells will cause an
increase in alkalinity and pH. There is one important consideration in altering the pH of water
and that relates to the mineral content (hardness) of the water. See the section below for a
complete description. Remember that fish are very sensitive to changes in pH, and rapid
changes in pH can cause extreme stress and death. Fish should not be exposed to a change in
pH greater than 0.3 in a 24-hour period.
Tap water is usually alkaline. Always test tap water pH prior to making freshwater
aquarium water changes, and adjust as required. Marine aquaria should be maintained at a
level of 8.2 to 8.4.

Temperature

While not considered chemistry, water temperature needs to be mentioned. Fish are cold
blooded, which means they cannot raise or lower their body temperature and their body
temperature will be the same as the water around them. If a fish is kept outside of their normal
temperature range they will become stressed and become diseased or die. The majority of fish
are tropical, which means they come from tropical climates with water temperatures around
75ºF. Even cold water species such as goldfish cannot handle very cold water or sudden
changes in temperature. Know your species of fish and their temperature requirements.

Water hardness

Water hardness is often confusing and therefore overlooked by many aquarium owners. Water
hardness is important because it is closely related to pH and, just like pH, fish have certain
levels of water hardness that they thrive in, and if the hardness is too far off, it can cause
stress and death. Water hardness can be most simply described as the level of mineral in the
water. Hard water has a lot of dissolved mineral, and soft water has very little dissolved
mineral in the water. The most common mineral in water is calcium, however, other minerals
can also be present. Most people's tap water is either slightly hard or soft depending on where
it comes from. Well water from areas that have a lot of limestone (calcium) is often hard.
Water that comes from lakes (rainwater) is often devoid of mineral and is soft. It is important
that you know the hardness of the water that you use in your fish tank. Some species of fish
require hard water and others require soft water.
The other reason that hardness is important is that it affects pH. Hard water (high
mineral content) is usually high in pH. Soft water (low mineral) is usually low in pH. The
2
mineral in hard water will act as a buffer which will reduce the amount of acid in the water.
The resulting water will be more alkaline and higher in pH. The problem arises when we try
to lower the pH in hard water. If we add a commercial pH decreaser to an aquarium that is
filled with hard water, the mineral in the hard water will buffer the water and make it difficult
to successfully lower the pH. We would first have to remove the mineral from the water
before we could effectively lower the pH. The same is true for trying to raise the pH in acidic
water that is soft and does not contain much mineral. Until we add mineral to the water, it will
be difficult to successfully alter and maintain a high pH level. So what do we do? Well, it is
not too hard to add mineral in the form of calcium based rock, so making soft water hard and
more alkaline (higher in pH) should not be too difficult. To soften hard water, you need to
take the mineral out with a water softener, reverse osmosis or a specialized chemical that
irreversibly binds up the mineral. Another option is to find a source of demineralized water
for your fish tank (rain water is soft in nature).
Of course the alternative to all of this may be to tailor your fish and plant species
around your existing water source. For beginning aquarist this may be the best solution. There
are a wide variety of tropical fish available and it is not difficult to find at least a dozen
different species for every different type of water. Any decent book on aquariums and tropical
fish will list the individual pH and hardness requirements of the different fish species.
If the water is too hard for your specific application (such as breeding certain species),
simply mix it with deionized water until the required hardness is obtained. Most hobbyists
don’t feel the need to measure this particular water quality.

Ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates

Ammonia, nitrites and nitrates are all part of the breakdown of waste in an aquarium. A
significant amount of fish and plant waste can accumulate in any aquarium. Uneaten food,
algae, and bacteria can also contribute to the waste load in an aquarium. As in all
environments, this waste needs to be broken down and either eliminated or turned into
something that can be utilized by another organism. In an aquarium there is a population of
bacteria that is responsible for this process. The breakdown of waste is a four-part process.

1. First, the waste from fish, plants, and food breaks down and releases ammonia.
2. This ammonia is very toxic to fish and must be converted by bacteria to nitrite.
3. The nitrite is also toxic to fish and must then be converted to nitrate.
4. The nitrate is not nearly as toxic and is taken up by plants or algae and used to help
them grow.

Ammonia is the most toxic product formed in water. Sources of ammonia in aquarium
water are fish respiration and digestion and decaying foods. Freshwater fish begin to be
stressed at levels of 0.50 ppm (parts per million). Marine aquaria levels
should be less than 0.05 ppm.
Nitrate, nitrite, and ammonia are also removed through the
weekly water changes. Because high levels of ammonia and nitrite are
lethal for fish, it is critical that these products be efficiently removed or
converted to nitrate.
Maintaining a population of bacteria that can convert ammonia
and nitrite is an important part of the water chemistry, and the process
is known as biological filtration. Biological filtration will occur
3
naturally in most tanks that have been up and running for a couple of months. The better
filters often contain a special area or wheel that is made specifically for providing an optimal
habitat for growing these bacteria. While the bacteria will live in a traditional filter and on
rocks etc. in the aquarium, the new filters harbor a much higher number and can therefore do
a better job of removing ammonia and nitrites.
If a fish tank is over crowded, or the waste level gets too high through overfeeding or
dead fish etc., even a properly functioning biological filter can be overwhelmed and toxic
conditions can result. Periodically checking the ammonia and nitrite levels in your tank with a
test kit will ensure that your biological filter is working correctly. Tanks that have a healthy
plant population will also aid in the removal of nitrates. Because it takes weeks to months for
a tank to grow a healthy population of bacteria, it is important that a tank be allowed to age
before fish are added. After the tank ages several weeks with only a few hardy fish, more fish
can be slowly added over a couple of months to make sure the biological filter is not
overloaded.

Nitrate

High levels of nitrate can be present in the water of wells contaminated from fertilizer,
agricultural run off, or sewage. These nitrates are dangerous to humans as well as livestock.
Nitrates can be removed by reverse osmosis or specialized nitrate removing chemicals.

Fig. Biofilter cycling over time

Chlorine

Chlorine is commonly added to water supplies to disinfect the water (to kill bacteria) and can
be harmful to fish. It is lethal to fish at 0.2 - 0.3 ppm. It can be removed with chemical
chlorine eliminators or by aerating the water in a bucket over night.

Phosphates

Phosphate is a salt, commonly found in tap water, which serves as an algae nutrient.
Maximum phosphate levels are 2 - 3 ppm with less than 0.05 ppm being ideal.

4
Reef tanks should be maintained at less than 0.05 ppm.

Importance of Water quality management in aquarium

Nothing is more important in aquarium keeping than water quality management. There are
many excellent products available out there to assist in water quality management, but there is
still no replacement for water changes, good filtration, and good feeding habits.

Water Changes: Changing water in more frequent, smaller amounts is preferable to larger
less frequent changes. Make sure the water going in has the right chemistry (pH, etc.) and
temperature. Weekly water changes are probably the most important part of maintaining good
water quality. Weekly water changes of around 15%-20% of the total water volume will
correct many potential problems in water quality. The water changes will bring fresh mineral
rich water into the tank. The fish, plants and bacteria use up the trace minerals in the water
and by adding new water weekly you replace these minerals. By removing water you reduce
the amount of nitrate and ammonia that builds up in the water as well. Weekly water changes
also help remove other toxins or pollutants that can build up in the tank. If a siphon with a
gravel cleaner is used the gravel can be cleaned and uneaten food and fish and plant waste can
also be removed. This keeps the ammonia levels down and the water cleaner. (If you have an
under gravel filter or a filter system that does not have a biological filter you may not want to
disrupt the good bacteria by over cleaning the gravel).

Remember that most tropical fish live in environments where currents or rainfall regularly
bring fresh water and remove waste. By providing weekly water changes we help to simulate
this natural and much needed requirement. An important note about water changes is to make
sure the total does not exceed a third of the water volume. It is also important that the water
that is added is free of chlorine. Otherwise use a declorinator (sodium thiosulfate), if chlorine
or chloramines are present. (Wonder shells remove chlorine,
stabilize KH, and add electrolytes). Water changes are important for
Nitrate removal and buildup of toxic organic and inorganic material.

Filtration: Good filtration consists of biological, chemical,

mechanical, and germicidal.

Biological: Biological filtration is the action of bacteria in the tank

breaking down dangerous ammonia to nitrites and then the nitrites to
the less toxic nitrates. Today most good new filters provide a
separate area or wheel for the specific task of growing these
necessary bacteria. These good nitrifying bacteria will grow in other
places in the tank and on other filter media but not with as great a
numbers. It is hard to argue with the success of these new filters and their ease and success in
providing high quality filtration. Regardless of which system you use to provide biological
filtration, it is a very important part of maintaining the water quality. Remember that it takes
weeks to properly grow the bacteria in a biological filter, so if you are setting up a new tank,
wait several weeks before adding fish. At the same time be careful not to damage your
existing biological filter with antibiotics, chemicals or over cleaning.

5
Sponge filters are excellent bio-filters (generally used in smaller aquariums, but there are
larger ones now available, as well a sponge pre-filters for intakes of other filters), wet/dry on
a larger scale, fluidized bed, and under gravel filters (Your canister filter, power filter, etc also
can be biological filters- just make sure not to change all media during cleanings. You want to
wash some of the media out in used aquarium water. Ceramic bio rings are excellent in
canister filters for bio filtration). Live rock in marine aquariums also acts as bio filters.
Chemical Filters - Chemical filtration is achieved by carbon and zeolite (freshwater only for
zeolite).

Mechanical filtration is the removal of debris from the aquarium via filter floss, cartridges,
ECT. Canister filters excel at mechanical filtration.

Germicidal filtration is the use of UV radiation or ozone to kill disease pathogens in the water.

Good feeding habits simply means feeding what the fish will consume in 2-3 minutes (very
general rule), twice per day. Also using a quality food that is highly digestible is very
important for less waste (Spirulina 20 flake is excellent). Most fish foods available have too
high of a cereal content and not enough fats and fish proteins.

Some more tips for Water Changes and Cleaning a Freshwater Aquarium

Regular changes are one of the most important aspects of maintaining good water quality. For
live plant tanks, weekly changes are best to replace trace elements lost. In an unplanted
freshwater aquarium, water parameters should be checked weekly with test kits, and water
changes performed accordingly. Aquariums with a good filtration system, should have a
monthly water change at the minimum, regardless of test results, generally to reduce the
amount of nitrates in the water.

Here are 10 easy steps to efficiently clean your freshwater tank and perform a water change
while reducing the stress on your fish.

1. Unplug the heater.

2. Remove any artificial plants and decorations, and clean all sides of the aquarium with
an algae sponge.
3. Turn off the pump. Disconnect the filter and take it, along with
the artificial plants and decorations, to a tub or sink.
4. Clean the filter, artificial plants, and decorations. During this
time, any debris that was stirred up will settle in the tank.
5. Connect a gravel cleaner. This may be a siphon which attaches
to a faucet, or a manual siphon used with a bucket to collect the
water. Start the siphon and push the gravel cleaner into the
gravel all the way to the bottom, and leave it there as debris
rises into the siphon. Continue until the water starts to clear,
then either pinch the tubing or partially close the valve to let the
gravel fall back down. Lift the gravel-cleaning tube out of the gravel and push it back
down right next to the last section you just cleaned.

6
 6. It's time to stop when you have removed 25-30% of the water (the water level drops to
3/4 to 2/3 of what it was before you started). If you did not get through cleaning all of
the gravel, you can start where you left off with the next water change.
7. Take the temperature reading in the tank, then go to the sink and adjust the water
temperature to match. This is a very important (but often overlooked) step. Adding
water of a different temperature can unnecessarily stress the fish, making them more
susceptible to diseases such as Itch.
8. Flip the faucet pump to run water into the aquarium, or fill a bucket and pour the water
back into the tank to original levels. If using a faucet pump, while the tank is filling,
add some de-chlorinator if you have chlorine in your water source. If you are using a
bucket, add the de-chlorinator to the water before pouring it into the aquarium.
9. Replace your artificial plants and decorations and reconnect the filter.
10. Plug in the heater and restart the pump.

Ideal Water Parameters

Making sure your tank has all of the appropriate water parameters and environmental
requirements a particular species needs is one way to assure your tank is healthy.

Parameters Ideal for breeding

SL. Name of the fish Water Temperature pH Water hardness

No. (oC) (mg/L CaCO3)
Egg layers
1. Gold fish (winter 18 - 20 7-7.5 90-200
breeder)
2. Koi carp (winter 20 - 22 7- 7.5 70 - 200
breeder)
3. Angel (summer breeder) 22 – 32 (breeding) 6.3 – 8.5 70 - 200
28 – 30 (larval rearing)
4. Gourami (summer 24 - 30 6.0 – 7.0 60 - 100
breeder)
Live bearers
5. Sowrd tail (-do-) 28-30 6.5 – 7.5 80 - 250
6. Platy (-do-) 28-30 6.5 – 7.5 80 - 250
7. Guppy (-do-) 28-30 6.5 – 7.5 80 - 250
8. Molly (-do-) 28-30 6.5 – 7.5 80 - 250

For culture in Pond

Parameters Range Nitrate < 50 ppm

Temperature 18 - 37°C Alkalinity

(Carbonate 70 - 150 ppm
pH 6.5 - 7.5 Hardness)
Ammonia 0.0 General
70 - 200 ppm
Hardness
Nitrite 0.0

7
 Other aspect of maintaining the water quality

Setting up the tank correctly

Many problems with water quality start before we even add water
to the fish tank. Most new tanks are well made and do not contain
toxic materials in the caulk or general construction. The problems
usually arise from the substrate and decorations that are added to
the water. If you use gravel, rocks and wood from your yard or
garden shop, be aware that you can be bringing contaminants into
your tank. A common problem is when people put rocks or gravel
of unknown origin into their tanks and the rocks contain limestone. The limestone will make
the water more alkaline and the aquarium owner will constantly struggle with maintaining the
proper pH in their tank. Setting up the tank with clean appropriate substrate, wood and rock is
the first step in maintaining water quality.

Live plants

Whether or not to have live plants in an aquarium is often a personal choice and many
aquariums do very well without ever having a live plant in them. However, live plants in a
tank offer many advantages. While some live plants can be difficult to grow and may initially
require a little more maintenance, the benefits to water quality and fish health are well worth
it. Plants are great at absorbing carbon dioxide and nitrates and provide shelter and security
for the fish. Because they compete with algae for nutrients they can also help reduce algae
growth. Live plants also enhance the appearance and provide a much more natural
environment for the fish. By improving water quality and reducing stress, live plants are a
great way to improve your fish's health. Adding live plants does not reduce the need for
weekly waters changes. When selecting live plants make sure to choose species that are truly
submersible and that are suitable for your specific water type and fish species.

-CAUTION-

Adjustment and/or corrections to existing water chemistry MUST

be made gradually.

Stability is as important as water quality.

A Canister filter is a large, powerful aquarium filter used for mechanical, biological
and optionally, chemical filtration. Canister filters sit below the tank, usually inside of
the aquarium stand. They are closed cylinders that stand about 15" (38 cm) high, with
locking lids. The lids have intake and outtake valves that connect to tubing, which feeds
up into the tank. The intake tube draws water into the filter where it follows a circuitous
path through various filter mediums before being expelled at the outtake valve to return
to the tank. Canister filters are extremely robust. Unlike hang on tank filters, canister
filters can normally go several months without maintenance of any kind. The Carbon in
canister filter absorbs dissolved organics, fish odors, toxic metals and growth inhibiting
enzymes and provides biological reduction of ammonia to nitrate.

8
b

Kordon Amquel - Removes ammonia, chloramines, chlorine, and many other organic toxins.
Completely non-toxic, contains no formaldehyde, and will not affect dissolved oxygen levels.
One teaspoon treats ten gallons.

Wonder Shells come two ways; regular and medicated:

The Regular Wonder Shells are great for ph, KH, water
clarification, chlorine removal and more. It helps keep aquarium
clear. Maintains stable pH. Adds necessary minerals
(electrolytes). Removes chlorine. Great for Goldfish, livebearers,
cichlids, and more. It contains Calcium carbonate; sodium
thiosulfate; major, minor, and trace elements including
magnesium sulfate. Magnesium and calcium been proven to help
fish (and humans) during stress and to help prevent disease due to
acid buildup in the body.

Sources of water testing Kit:

Water analysis kit: E-Merck, India, Qualigens,

Aquarium & Aquarium Supplies in Kolkata

A G Aquariums
56/6, Kantapukur, 3rd Bye Lane, Kadamtala, Howrah-711101
(91-33)-26774736

Chakraborty Aquarium

188/1, New Alipore, Block-J, Kolkata

09830119329

Aquarist Centre

2f Marquis Street, Park Street

Kolkata
033 22522700
09830089707 – Mobile

Das Aquarium

17, 17 S N Roy Road, Sahapur,

Calcutta - 700038
Phone : 24574505

9
Dolphin Aquarium Centre

530a, 530a Jodhpur Park, Jodhpur Park,

Calcutta - 700068
Phone : 9831137503

Ghosh’s Aquarium

178, R B Avenue, Sarat Bose Road,

Calcutta - 700029
Phone : 24631018

T S Traders

17, S N Roy Road, Sahapur,

Calcutta - 700038
Phone : 24465777

Aqua Tech Enterprises, Kolkata, Kidderpore ...

Bengal Aquaculture
54 Ichhapur Road, Kadamtala, Howrah
Ph. – 9433627089, 9831592050

Others:

HOLLYWOOD AQUATIC PRODUCT

AQUARIUM & AQUARIUM ACCESSORIES Aquarium & Acquaculture, NO. 1, BHARATHI
NAGAR, BALAJI NAGAR MAIN ROAD, KOLATHOOR, CHENNAI-600099, TAMILNADU. T.N.
KUMAR Phone : 044-25379659 Fax : 044-25500800

SOUTHERN INDIA AQUARISTS

AQUA CULTURE ITEMS, FISH MEDICATIONS, PRAWN FEEDS, ETC. Aquarium &
Acquaculture. 8, GIRI ROAD, T. NAGAR, CHENNAI-600017, CHENNAI. MRS. KUMAR
(DIRECTOR - MARKETING) Phone : 044-28255825 /28252752 Fax : 044-28259524
siac@eth.net , http://www.archanaexports.com

Living World
Shop No. 18 Crawford Market Fort Mumbai-400001, Maharashtra, Phone : 022-23422496

Fish-N-Fun
Shinde Wadi Dr Ambedkar Road Dadar Mumbai-400014, Maharashtra, Phone : 022-
24147893

Water Pets
Deals in aquariums, fish & accessories, 46/7 Urban Estate, Gurgaon-0, Phone : 0124-
2300312.

Aqua Scape, Mumbai, Napean Sea Road. Aqua Scenes Aquarium Centre, Udupi, Badagubettu.
Vikas Fish Aquarium and Dogs Kennel (Aquarium and Aquarium Supplies – Delhi.

10
 List of Ornamental Fish Exporters

M/s Angelo M/s Sachetan

8 A, Radhanath Mullick lane, L/45, Sitaram Building, Palton Road,
Calcutta,700 012 Mumbai - 400 001
Tel: # +91 33 2415478 Tel. # 0091 22 3448795
Fax : +91 33 2415478 /4748172 Fax: 0091 22 5221617
Contact Person : Mr.Sumit Dutta Contact Person : Mr. S R Sane
E-mail : links@satyam.net.in
M/s Southern India Aquarists
M/s Aqua Decor No. 8, Giri Road, T Nagar,
77, Netaji Subash Road, first Floor, Chennai - 600 017
Suite No 111 Tel. # 0091 44 8255825
Calcutta- 700 001 Fax: 0091 44 8259524
Phone : +91 33 243 1191/2105635 e-mail: archana@xlweb.com
Fax : +91 33 210 5359 /440 6389 Contact Person : Mr. Kumar.
E-mail : aquadeco@giascl01.vsnl.net.in
Contact person : Mr. K.L.Tekriwal M/s Trident International
10, Kennaway House
M/s Aquatic World 63-A, Proctor Road
Rahat Basar Manzil, 1 st Floor Mumbai - 400 004
1D Fort Road, Mahim Tel. # 0091 22 3872398
Mumbai-400 016 Fax: 0091 22 3872398
Phone : +91 22 4457749 Contact Person : Mr. Vispi Mitri
Fax : +91 22 4457749
Contact Person : Mr. Mehamood Syed M/s Travancore Aquapets
IV, 342 A, Kollayil House
M/s Aquatic Exortica Kumbalam, Cochin - 682 506
5/B, Viswagith Bldg Tel. # 0091 484 313227
Vakola Bridge, Santacruz (E) Fax: 0091 484 312485
Mumbai- 400 055 e-mail: krpushpangadhan@hotmail.com
Phone : +91 22 6140340 Contact Person : Mr. K R Pushpangadhan
Fax : +91 22 6174942
Contact Person : Mr. Kalpesh U KIni M/s Amalgam Aquaculture
Bristow Road, Willington Island
M/s Asian Exports Cochin - 682 003
2, Ganesh Chandra Avenue Tel: # 0091 484 668680
7 th floor, Calcutta-700 013 Fax: 0091 484 668130/668133
Phone : +91 33 277852 Contact Person : Mr. A J Tharakan.
Fax : +91 33 2250269
E-mail- deepak@gias101.vsnl.net.in M/s Umang Exports
Contact Person : Mr.Deepak 77, Netaji Subash Road
1st Floor, Suit No III
M/s Floating Beauty Calcutta-700 001
73, Nandakumar Sadan Phone -+91 33 2431191
Road No 5, Sreekrishnan Nagar, Borivali (E), fax - +91 33 2105359
Mumbai - 400 066, Contact person :- Mr. K.L. Tekriwal
Tel. # 0091 22 8952314,
Fax: 0091 22 8952314. M/s Sur Aquapet Enterprises
21 A, Badridas Temple road,
M/s Howrah fancy Fish calcutta- 700 004
91/1, Netaji Subash Road Phone-+91 33 3505768
Howrah- 711 101 Fax - +91 33 2486871
Phone :033 6501341 Contact Person : Mr. Subhashis Sur

11
 contact person: Mr. Pradip Kr.paul M/s Chandrlok International traders
17/6 Raja Rajkission street,
M/s Kundu's Fancy Fish Supplies Calcutta-700006
Sanpur Sibtala,Dassnagar, Phone-+91 33 555 8598
Howrah-711105 +91 33 339432
Phone -+91 3 692 848 Contact person- Mr. Atish Chandra Sinha
Contact Person-Mr.prasantha Kumar Kundu
M/s Karson(India)
M/s Howrah aquarium 5,Dharmatala Street,
100, Netaji Subash road, Howrah- 711 101 Calcutta-700 013
Phone- +91 650 7106 Phone-+91 33 284579
Contact Person- Mr. Naba Sarkar Fax-+91 33 281081
Contact Person: Mr.Narinder Pal singh
M/s A M Enterprises
Flat No 11, 1st Floor M/s S.S. Pet Fish farm
55, Gariahat Road 21 a, Badridas Temple Street,
Calcutta-700 019 Calcutta -700 006
Phone-91 33 4749652 Phone-91 33 2356541
Fax-+91 33 4748490

M/s Pescina Indica

21/1, jodpur Colony,
P O Lake gardens
Calcutta
Phone +91 33 4634370

Want to read more on this topic? Just go ahead....

MANAGEMENT OF WATER QUALITY IN AQUARIUM

Introduction:
Fish obtain their basic necessities from the water in which they live. The most
characteristic feature of any aquarium system is therefore the quality of the water it contains.
This water must be obtained from some source, pre-treated to make it suitable for the fish,
delivered to the fish in sufficient quantities and maintained in good condition. Finally, it must
be disposed of.
The water supplied to an aquarium is not pure, but contains dissolved and particulate
materials, some are necessary for the well-being of the fish and others are harmful.
Contamination may occur not only at source or form the animals, but often takes place
within the aquarium form the materials used in its construction. The volume of water supplied

12
to an aquarium may at first sight, seem to restrict the number of fish that can be maintained
within it. However, it is rarely the quantity of water per unit which limits the carrying
capacity. The capacity is usually set by the consumption of dissolved oxygen and the
accumulation of toxic metabolic products.

Nitrogenous waste products:

Perhaps the most pronounced and damaging changes to water quality originate with
the aquarium inhabitants themselves. In particular, water quality is impaired by the end
products of nitrogen metabolism. These include ammonia (either as the gas NH3 or
ammonium ion, NH4), urea, uric acid and other nitrogenous substances including proteins and
amino acids. Ammonia, especially, is one of the most harmful substances. Higher percent of
un-ionized NH3 prevails at higher pH and higher temperature. In ammonia poisoning, Gill
becomes red, fish become darker in colour and grasping at the surface layer. Acute toxicity
levels = 0.4 ppm NH3. Chronic toxicity levels = 0.05 ppm. This is common in new aquarium
when immediately stoked to full capacity. Ammonia can damage the gills at a level as small
as 0.25 mg/lt. For immediate removal of ammonia, use ammonia detoxifier such as Kordon's
Amquel. However, it is best left alone until the bacterial load is sufficient. Note that the
bacterial phases will not take place unless the tank is initially stocked with feeder fish which
can be removed after treatment. Test the water until the ammonia drops to nearly zero. At this
time, we should notice an increase in the nitrite level. When the nitrites are gone, it will be
safe to add fish.
The conversion of the more toxic nitrogenous compounds to less toxic compounds is
achieved through organisms residing in water treatment units such as filters. In some aquaria,
algae are also used in nitrogen recycling. The process of combating the effects of nitrogenous
waste products is facilitated by low stock density, a high water turn over, aeration or
oxygenation of the water, frequent cleaning, removal of faeces and waste food and by the
provision of special water treatment facilities.

Dissolved oxygen:
The majority of aquatic organisms need oxygen and must obtain it from the
surrounding water. The oxygenation or aeration of the water is therefore, of fundamental

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importance in any aquarium, especially as the oxygen supply is one of the factors which may
ultimately limit the capacity of a particular volume of water for carrying fish.
The oxygen dissolved in water comes from two main sources: the atmosphere and
green plants. The actual content is a function of temperature, salinity and atmospheric
pressure. Low temperature, low salinity and higher atmospheric pressure favours more gas
content (thereby more oxygen) in the solution (water medium).
Aeration: Continuous aeration is very good husbandry since it mixes the water, supplies the
oxygen for the fish, removes carbon dioxide and maintains a constant temperature throughout
the tank. Many cheap air pumps are available in the hobby trade, though they are often noisy,
are of limited power and many frequently fail. If only one or two tanks are required, such
vibratory diaphragm pumps are acceptable, but a spare pump and several replacement
diaphragms should be stocked. The pump should be mounted above the tank level or the air-
line fitted with non-return valve to prevent back-siphoning when the pump is stopped or fails.
A loop in the air-line 8 cm (3 inch) vertically above the tank’s water level will also prevent
back-siphoning by absorbing the oscillations when the airflows stops. The air tubes from the
pump are connected to air stones for providing minute air bubbles that diffuses the oxygen in
water. Besides that it is also connected to various types of toys and also for airlift pumping
under for under gravel filtration. For diffusion of more oxygen in water a micro pore air stone
gets priority during selection of air stones.

Water Temperature:
Temperature is perhaps the most potent of all the environmental factors controlling
and governing the metabolism of animals. Water has a high thermal capacity compared to air;
that is, it can absorb a large amount of heat energy for a small rise in temperature. It,
therefore, provides a thermally stable environment.
In aquarium, fish are largely denied the use of any behavioural regulation, and the
aquarium design and management must compensate for this loss. Sudden change of
temperature in the aquarium should be avoided. Such as thermal shocks are most likely to
occur when fish are transferred from tank to tank or when they first arrive in the aquarium
complex. A simple rule is to float transfer containers plus fish in their new tanks until the
temperature has equilibrated or alternatively to slowly mix the water in the container with that
in the tank over half an hour or more. Increases in temperatures have the most distressing

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effect since respiration rate and excitability increase while the oxygen-carrying capacity of the
water decreases. Such temperature increase in established tanks may result from refrigeration
breakdown or thermostat malfunction. The damage cause by faulty thermostat in a heated
system can be minimized by employing the minimum wattage heaters required for the
temperature control or by including a high temperature cutout in the circuit. This could simply
be a second thermostat in series with the first, but set to a slightly higher temperature so that it
is on all the time during normal operations. Such a thermostat should, however, be serviced
regularly to ensure it does not stick on.
During winter months necessary heating arrangements may be made for tropical
aquarium fish. A water heater of 5-6 watts capacity is required per gallon of water. Heating
equipment of the aquarium is basically an electric heating coil complete with thermostat to
control it both contained in glass tube. This submerged in the aquarium, connected to the
electricity supply and the built-in neon indicator. A thermometer is always kept in side the
aquarium to monitor the temperature. It is placed at the front where it can be easily seen. It is
best arranged heater and thermostat at opposite corners of the tank to get correct temperature
readings of the aquarium water.

Sound and Vibration:

It is often forgotten that many fishes are acutely sensitive to sound and other
mechanical disturbances of the water. Though the hearing of most species is restricted to low
frequencies (below 3 kHz for nearly all fish, and below 1 kHz for most), at these low
frequency and amplitude many species produce sounds especially during courtship.
The aquarium is often a very noisy place, with underwater noise levels in aquarium
tanks often very much higher than those in the sea or in freshwater. Much of the noise comes
from the machinery; pumps and compressors associated with the aquarium, and
characteristically contain strong single frequencies in its spectrum. Human footfalls, doors
opening and closing etc. can also be troublesome, and their strongly impulsive nature may
evoke startling response from the aquarium inhabitants. Vibration is transmitted to the water
mainly through the floor and tank supports but also through the water pipes. Therefore,
machinery; pumps and compressors, which are producing unnatural sound, must be replaced
at the earliest.

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Routine cleaning:
Routine partial changes of the water are most important. The changes are necessary to
dilute the build-up of soluble materials (due to accumulation of fecal and unfed materials).
The ideal is to replace 20% of the tank volume weekly. Evaporation losses should be replaced
by suitable water (artificially prepared or natural). The cleaning can be done by hand; the
hands should be washed with shop, after the job and not before because of the danger of
introducing soap into the water. Use scraper for algae on glasses. The toys, air stones and
other equipments, which have the algae and other sediment attachment, should also be
cleaned. Plants should be trimmed and decaying leaves should be removed regularly at the
time of water exchange.

Some important aspects of water quality:

Aquarium should be filled with clear portable water. The quality requirement of water
in the aquarium depends on the types of the fishes being kept there. The tap water is probably
the safest source of aquarium water for majority of tropical fish and plants (see below the
requirement for breeding). But it contains chlorine, which is toxic to fish even at low
concentration. To remove the chlorine naturally, it is better to allow maturing the water for
few days or aerating overnight before its addition. During emergency conditions
dechlorination can be done with the commercially available chemical (sodium thiosulphate)
purchased from the pet shop.
The degrees of hardness have several biological effects upon aquatic life. Bicarbonates
tend to prevent a solution from changing in acidity. Soft water, lacking this protection, may
become particularly acidic when much carbon dioxide is present; such a change creates stress
for organisms. For soft water species excessive hardness causes an organism problem in
absorbing substances through its delicate membranes. This is most true of the sensitive naked
cells of eggs and milt, so that soft water has been found to play a vital role in the successful
reproduction of many species of freshwater fishes. Thus, at least for the purposes such as fish
breeding, a soft solution is desirable. Water hardness typically follows the following
guideline:

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 Hardness scale Water hardness level Hardness level
(as CaCO3)
0-4 dH 0-70 ppm Very soft
4-8dH 70-140 ppm Soft
8-12 dH 140-210 ppm Medium hard
12-18 dH 210-320 ppm Fairly hard
18-30 dH 320-530 ppm Hard
60-100 ppm Desirable hardness

To maintain soft water, all sources of calcium carbonate such as calcareous rocks, gravels,
coral, broken shell and algae must be kept out of the aquarium system whilst using only soft
water initially and during exchange. Conversely, presence of such sources will preserve the
water hardness. Some of the important water quality parameters and their optimum ranges for
aquarium fish are presented in the table below:
Temperature 24-280C
pH 7.0-8.5
CO2 < 5 ppm
Alkalinity 75-120 ppm as Ca CO3
Hardness 60-100 ppm as Ca CO3
Dissolved oxygen 6.0-8.0 ppm
Free ammonia <0.05 ppm
Ionised ammonia <0.1-0.4 ppm

Sources of Informations:

1. http://www.diveintofish.com
2. http://hbhnet.com/PetCare
3. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu
4. http://ezinearticles.com
5. http://www.mypets.net.au
6. http://www.peteducation.com
7. http://www.aquaticcritter.com/Freshwater/aquariummaintenance
8. http://hbhnet.com/PetCare
9 http://www.goldfishvet.com
10. https://www.blogger.com
11. Russ Case (Ed). Freshwater and Marine Aquarium, BowTie Magazines, 150p.
12. Glenn S. Axelrod (Ed.) Tropical Fish Hobbyist, TFH Publications Inc., 200p.

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