ZALAKDOZI

kashmiri embroidery on woolen shawl

example of kashimiri embroidery

kashimiri embroidery on a kurta or a top

Kashmiri crewel embroidery on cushion covers

KASHMIR is a beautiful state in northern India. Known for its natural beauty, it also has a distinct embroidery of its own. Kashmir embroidery and shawls are well known for the beauty of colour, texture and design. The wool emroidery of Kashmir is universally famous. It is essentially a commercial craft. Colours are:- white - sufed, green - zingari, purple- uda, blue- ferozi, yellow- zard, blackmushki, crimson- gulmor, scarlet- kirmiz. (the kashmiri names of the colors are given next to the name of the color in english) Motifs :- are mostly taken from nature. Animal and human figures are usually not seen due to Muslim influence. The bird motifs used are parrot, canary, magpie, woodpecker and kingfisher. Floral motifs used are iris, lotus, lily, tulip and saffron flower. Other designs are grapes, plums, apple blossoms, almonds and cherries. The Chinar leaf is an important motif. Butterfly designs are also found. Fabrics :- used are silk, wool, cotton, and threads used are wool, silk and art silk. Stitches used are : satin stitch, chain stitch, long and short. Occasionally herringbone, darning stitch is also used. Other stitches used are known as 1) vata chickan- button hole 2) doria- open work 3) talaibar- gold work, 4) zalakdozi- chain stitch and 5) rafooqani or darning stitch

KASHIDA

Kashmiri embroidery is well known for the beauty of its colour, texture, design and technique. Probably, the best-known Indian embroidery is the 'Kashida of Kashmir'. This embroidery is revealed in shawls and in cottage industry done by the members of families in Srinagar. Kashmiri embroidery is practiced by men and it is essentially a commercial craft.

The motifs were mainly taken from nature; animal and human figures were not seen in this embroidery. Bird motifs were seen on the shawls (like parrot, woodpeckers and kingfishers). Floral motifs like lily, lotus, iris, saffron flower and tulips were mostly seen on the shawls. Other designs like grapes, cherries, almonds and apples were their favourites. The chinar leaf is considered as an important motif. The stitches used were simple, the chief being satin stitch, stem stitch and chain stitch. Occasionally, the darning and herringbone are used. Crewel embroidery is done with the use of hook. Kashida is general term for Kashmir embroidery, which includes other stitches as Zalakdo (chain stitch), Vatachik (Buttonhole stitch), Talibar (Gold work). One outstanding feature of the embroidery is the fact that it is made with a single thread giving a flat, formalized appearance to the design. The satin stitch has been adopted to cover larger surface without pulling the cloth. It has become the variation of long and short stitch. Chain is used only in inferior places and never on expensive piece of work. The Indian customer sets a great store by embroidery which displays the same fineness on both sides so as to make the wrong side distinguishable from right and Kashmiri workman has made himself adapt at this art. This embroidery is done on silk, cotton and wool fabrics. Colourful fabrics like white (sufed), green (zingari), purple (uder), blue (ferozi), yellow (zard) and black (mushki). The threads used were wool, cotton and silk. Thus, this embroidery enhanced the beauty of Kashmiri shawls, silk sarees, dress materials, cushion covers, bed covers, purses, veils and articles of personal and daily use. There is no way one can compare the Kashmiri embroidery with any thing else.

KASHIDA EMBROIDERY

Introduction
Kashmir means Rock throughin regional language, where KAS is water channel and MIR I smountain.Kashmir is considered as a paradise of earth. Kashmir is famous for various arts, specifically, for its beautifully embroidered and woven shawls.

Places

Kashmir, Amritsar

Colors
Mostly used were crimson red, scarlet red, blue, yellow, green, purple,black, brown and white.

Threads
Fine quality woollen yarn, rich lustrous silk and cotton thread also, was used in bright colors.

Stitches
The stitches employed are simple. The dominant stitches are satin, stem, chain, long and short stitches, with the darning, button-hole and herring-bone stitches occasionally used.

Fabrics
Various types of un-dyed wool, Silk, cotton and linen were used. Usually, it was a cream background but according to the demand, mill made dyed fabric in dark colors like black, navy blue, brown maroon and bottle green were also used.