Professional Documents
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jean-georges vongerichten
with Genevieve Ko
Clarkson Potter/Publishers
New York
welcome
On my first drive up to Waccabuc, a rural town
in upstate New York, I told my wife, Marja, that I
probably wouldnt like the place. We had decided
to buy a weekend home to spend unhurried
time with our young daughter, Chloe; my older
children, Cedric and Louise; and our extended
family. I had assumed we would find a house
in the Hamptons. I love the beach and looked
forward to cooking the fresh seafood caught off
the coast.
But as we wound through the grassy hills
some fifty miles north of Manhattan, I began
warming to the idea of being secluded. We pulled
up a gravel drive and caught sight of two neat,
white Cape Cod houses. As we walked through the
airy main house, looking out the double-height
windows at the lake below and the woods beyond,
we realized we had found the perfect home away
from home.
The walls of windows resembled our
fishbowl city apartment in a modern glass tower,
but here, the only gawkers were wide-eyed deer.
From room to room, the color scheme of soft
whites and elephant grays closely matched those of
my flagship restaurant, where I spend more time
than anywhere else. A fireplace at one end of the
expansive kitchen reminded me of my childhood
welcome
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welcome
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On my fiftieth birthday, I decided to give myself
a gift that most people take for granted: two-day
weekends. Since I was sixteen, I had only taken
Sundays off; thats just enough time to sleep in
a little and run a few errands. Now, for the first
time in my adult life, I get to relax. Even though
my country home is just an hour or so drive
from Manhattan, its completely secluded, with
no cell phone towers for miles. I cant get a signal
up there, and I dont plan to try. Instead, I play
with Chloe and my new grandson, Olivier, catch
up with Cedric and Louise, and spend time with
Marja. And I cook. For the first time in thirty-five
years, I am cooking at home. My mind is spinning
with ideas.
The dishes I cook in the country are
decidedly simple and unfussyeven boneless
chicken breasts!and yet they are some of my
favorites. As soon as I clear the breakfast dishes,
I think about what to have for lunch. Usually, its
a delicious salad composed of whatever I happen
to find at the farmers market. In the spring, I pile
radishes on butter lettuce and in the summer, I
toss tomatoes and wax beans with a goat cheese
dressing.
While I love nothing more than a simple
lunch, dinner is another affair. Although I dont
do anything too elaborate, I do like to prepare full
meals, including dessert, especially for company.
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welcome
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This simple
about any simply cooked vegetable, but it tastes best with green beans. Instead of
simply blanching the beans, I char them until they develop a smoky richness.
Kosher salt
8 ounces green and/or wax
beans, trimmed
cup blanched whole
almonds, coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons extra-virgin
olive oil, plus more as
needed
1 large shallot, minced
1 tablespoon fresh flat-leaf
parsley leaves, thinly sliced
1 lemon
Freshly ground black pepper
side dishes
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This is t he
dessert, with the crme anglaise and caramel, but one well worth having in the morning.
To achieve the perfect balance between crisp outside and custard center,
you must completely soak the bread.
brunch
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