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BYNEILZEVNIK
have a confession to make: until recently, my love for all things organic was as much affectation as inclination. Hazy remnants of my hippie days dictated my relentless championing of anything and everything organic. Then, I decided to educate myself a bit, iust so I could be sure I was right. Man, my head is spinning. Talk about having your assumptions turned upside down. There are so many complex considerations, so many vastly differing viewpoints and 'Tacts," so many passionate people urging mutually exclusive choicesI hardly know where to begin to make some sense of it all. i irst off, I discovered that it's important to distinguish between "organic" the philosophy and "organic" the marketing label. Organic as a philosophy speaks to a worldview, a set of feelings about how humankind should relate to our immediate environment and the planet; organic as a marketing label has simply to do with a set of requirements and restrictions implemented by the government to provide a basis for consumer comparison and to prevent outright fraud.
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Let's try to get a simplified picture of the marketing term. The basic requirements for organic labeling are avoidance of synthetic chemicals, genetically modified organisms, irradiation, and the use of sewage sludge; farmland that has been free of chemicals for a prescribed number of years; detailed written records; and periodic on-site inspeaions.
"U.S. producers are turning to certified organic farming systems as a potential way to lower input costs, decrease reliance on nonrenewable resources, capture high-value markets and premium prices, and boost farm income." Big business indeed, with consequences for farmer and consumer alike.
of agreed opinion, and no solution to make our choices straightforward and clear. Consensus among the green and scientific communities is about as likely as a snowball's chance in the hot place. Most can agree that ingesting pesticides is not a great idea, but beyond that it's chaos. Are organic veggies more nutritious? Depends on whom you talk to. is organic asparagus flown in from Ixuador better for the environment than nonorganic trucked in from the next countyrPhat's iffy, if Wal-Mart is selling organic products, are we selling our "green" souls to big business? Some would argue yes, some would claim it spells salvation.
Peaches Apples Sweet Bell Peppers Leafy Greens Nectarines Strawberrie' Carr Kale Celery Grapes Pears
ORGANIC AS A PHILOSOPHY
But let's talk for a moment about "organic" as a philosophythis is where the discussion tends to get emotional and heated. It ties into the whole green movement, and suddenly becomes entwined with carbon footprints, sustain ability, pollution of all sorts, and the very way that people choose to live their daily lives. There is no unanimity of discourse, no chorus
SO WHAT TO DO?
There's just no way to reconcile all these conflicting opitiions and studies and passionate discourses to accommodate them alland yet one must eat, and eat healthfully and well. As a private chef, I have a responsibility to provide my clients with the best food and most current information I can, to better 45:
Bring home a treasure trove of organics from your local farmers' market and enjoy this simple but perfect salad.
2 5 6 2 bunches heirloom beets (red and gold) Tbs. organic olive oil. divided oz. wild arugula, rinsed and patted dry large red plums, pitted and chopped 4 oz. feta cheese, crumbled V cup walnuts, chopped 2 Tbs. organic balsamic vinegar
1. Preheat oven to 375*'KTrim beets, moisten with 2 Tbs. oil, cover with aluminum foil, and roast until cooked through, about 1 hour. Cool to room temperature; peel, and cut into thick slices. 2. Spread arugula in wide, shallow bowl. Arrange beets over arugula, then plums. Sprinkle feta and walnuts over all. Drizzle remaining oil and vinegar over salad. Season with salt and pepper to taste. PER SERVING: 200 CM; 5 C PROT; 15 G TOTAL FAT (4 G SAT FAT); 13 G GARB; 17 MG GHOL; 399 MG SOD; 2 G FIBER; II G SUGARS