My Usa August 09

USA
FREE
FEATURES
42 58 76
by Erik Biksa
CONTENTS august 2009
Strands of Gold: Growing Saffron

by Dr. Lynette Morgan
Is That the Best You Can Do? Nutrient Ratios for Modern Crops Plants and Sounds
by Evan Folds
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86 94 100 106 112
Around the World With Hydroponics: La Villette - An Indoor Plantation Paris, France
by Lee McCall
Come Clone With Us

by Kevin Dunlop
Lighting Basics
by Bob Taylor
Sun and Soil: Natural Greenhouse Growing Sunlight In the Garden

by Roland Evans
Composting 101: An Overview

by Jared Garrett
58 DEPARTMENTS
10 From the Editor 12 Letters to the Editor 14 MaximumYield.com 18 Ask Erik 20 MAX Facts 32 Product Spotlight 56 Growing for Health 74 Beginners Corner
116
Soil - Who Doesn't Love it?

by Luis Bartolo
84 Green Thumb Gardening 98 Tips and Tricks 119 Do You Know? 120 You Tell Us 130 Avant-Gardening 132 Max Mart 136 Distributors 146 Coming up in September
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009 9
76
FROM THE
editor
jessica raymond
Get ready for some great reading in this information packed August issue. From cloning and nutrient ratios, to lighting basics and discovering how plants respond to sound, there is something of interest for everyone here. Once you have read this issue, go directly to maximumyield.com to enter the second series of our Win Big! Grow Big! Online Contest. You could win the Under Current System from Current Culture, the Sun System Galaxy Electronic Ballast from Jessica Raymond, Editor Sunlight Supply, General editor@maximumyield.com Hydroponics Eurogrower or a bunch of Maximum Yield gear. While youre entering our online win big contest, check out the current and back issues of Maximum Yield globally - 10 + years of knowledge to keep you learning and growing!
Growing greener and living a sustainable life is becoming increasingly important throughout the USA and the world. Learning and sharing ways that we can grow healthy plants in a minimal space like what was experienced at the recent San Francisco Growing our World Green Indoor Gardening Expo is a clear indication of how this trend is progressing. We are proud to feature writers from around the globe sharing their knowledge and gardening experience with every issue of Maximum Yield.
contributors
Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort. Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. A partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants, Lynette is involved in remote and on-site consultancy services for new and existing commercial greenhouse growers worldwide as well as research trials and product development for manufacturers of hydroponic products. Lynette authors five hydroponic technical books. Visit www.suntec.co.nz/consultants.htm and www.suntec.co.nz/books.htm for more information. Erik Biksa, leading expert in hydroponic technologies, holds a diploma in Agriculture with majors in fertilizer sciences and crop production. Eriks earliest gardening experiences began when he started to walk, learning the secrets of time honored, old-world gardening practices from his grandfather. Erik has amassed over 18 years of indoor gardening experience and intensive research while pushing the boundaries of crop growth technologies. Since first appearing in Maximum Yield in 1999, the Ask Erik column and numerous articles have reached growers throughout the world. Evan Folds is president of Progressive Gardens, A Natural Approach
land care company and Progress Earth (www.progressearth.com), all located in Wilmington, NC. With a degree in biology and religion, Evans interests include making sense of food production and bringing awareness to the myriad injustices we collectively perpetrate upon ourselves as a society, including empty food, municipal water fluoridation and spiritual intolerance. Evan is also a board member on the Progressive Gardening Trade Association.
Bob Taylor is the chief chemist of Flairform (www.flairform.com) - an

Australian based manufacturing company. Up until 1992, Bob was the principal chemist of the water resources section at Western Australias State Government Chemistry Centre. Bob was an approved NATA signatory for a wide range of water analyses as well as an official registered analyst for the governments chemical analysis monitoring program of all fertilizers registered in Western Australia.
Roland Evans is lifelong gardener and CEO of Organic Bountea. As
a student and teacher of Holistic Systems, he actively promotes an ecological approach to cultivation using the Soil Food Web. Trained as a psychologist, Roland also writes on the interface between gardening and personal growth.
Jared Garrett is an accomplished writer with experience in educa-
tion, marketing and the financial sector. He has established Internet niches in gardening, personal finance, political commentary, and journalism. Jared has won or placed in multiple writing contests, for both fiction and journalistic endeavors. He has written two novels, and has publishing credits in several textbooks and workbooks, LDS Livings online magazine, Name.coms website, and various other sites. With over 1000 articles online, you can Google Jared Garrett and the first page of results is all him!
Lee McCall graduated from Johnson and Wales University with a concentration in Culinary Arts. Culinary school opened the door to research and work with hydroponics and organic production. Currently, Lee attends business school in Denver and focuses on continuing advancements with Maximum Yield and indoor gardening technology.
Jose Luis Pinheiro Bartolo is the President and Chief Executive
Officer of Biobizz Worldwide Inc., (www.biobizz.nl) a global leader in the production of organic fertilizers and soil mixtures in the hydroponic industry, which he launched in 2002. He is passionate about maintaining a business philosophy that identifies with the organic market and providing the highest service and perfectionism that comes direct from his heart and is projected to all aspects of his life.
Kevin Dunlop was born in Hampshire, England and has been
involved in horticultural and agricultural journalism for many years. Now retired, with a keen interest in hydroponics and its future, he is well placed to write articles for growers, creating interest and providing valuable knowledge.
10
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009
LETTERS TO
At a Loss
the editor
Natural Killers
by Erik Biksa
After reading Erik Biksas A Fresh Look at Insect and Disease Controls (May 09 USA), I wanted to try some salicylic acid on my plants. My local hydro dealer has no product that contains salicylic acid. I have called four dealers that run advertisements in Maximum Yield and none carry such a product. Can you help? A Fresh Look At Insect Thanks Jim Keul Whittier, CA., USA
52
How can I get rid of spidermites without chemicals in my indoor grow room? They gotta go! Please reply. You guys rock! Harry Campbell
"There has been some success with careful applications of kill level carbon dioxide levels during the plants dark cycle."
And dIseAse controLs: Send Them Running

Try and talk about preventative controls, and youll find yourself in an empty room, but address growers who have crop pests like spidermites and thrips and you will have their undivided attention. Human nature often dictates that we pay more attention to solving problems once they start versus taking a smaller degree of time, effort and expense to avoid them in the first place. Its also true that hindsight is typically 20/20, so growers who have felt the dent in their yields due to insects or diseases will often pay a little closer attention to preventing the sorts of problems that can significantly cut down their yield. In this article we are going to look at some ways of preventing many common problems that surface through the growing experience, with regards to insects and diseases that are most prevalent in indoor crops. We will also have a look at some effective, safe and practical solutions to treating crops that have insect and disease infestations, should your level of control and prevention get away from you.
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2009
What products are those that contain chitinase and salicylic acid, as mentioned in A Fresh Look at Insect and Disease Controls: Send Them Running by Erik Biksa (May 09 USA)? Bob Long
Typically, highly effective and bio-active nutrients and supplements are manufactured and developed by advanced crop technologies manufacturers. These plant beneficial biotechnologies are made available through garden suppliers who specialize in supplies for high yielding indoor and greenhouse crops. If there are no shops in your area, you can look at internet based hydroponics suppliers. Or, drop us a line with what store you prefer to shop at. We can contact them to see what products they may have available that supply salicylic acid or otherwise boost your crops natural immunity response system. That way, when you contact them again they will be up to date on which products they can recommend to you. As new technologies become available to growers, Maximum Yield is dedicated to informing both growers and vendors alike of all the possibilities that are available. Erik Biksa
Prevention is the best defense. Predator mites can be effective if spidermite populations havent gotten too out of hand, and the growing environment suits the predators. Sometimes the environment is too hot and dry or otherwise not optimal for the predators, making them less effective. Derivatives of neem, while not chemicals per say because they are natural, can reduce pest insect populations if applied properly. There has also been some success with careful applications of kill level carbon dioxide levels during the plants dark cycle. It wont harm the plants while suffocating other organisms such as spidermites without the use of chemicals. Careful consideration is required if applying kill-level CO2 for insect control. Good Luck. Erik Biksa
Search Solutions
I have just recently found your website and I am there everyday. Thank you for the superb information and pictures. Do you have a search feature available on your website? I read an article with an organic tea recipe a couple of days ago and now I cant find it. Thanks Shawn Moriarty
Friends and Fans

I cant seem to find Maximum Yield on Facebook? I wanted to learn more on LEDs and other related information. Thanks Branden Dais
To join us on Facebook, simply visit www.maximumyield.com and click on the Facebook button, or you can follow this link: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Maximum-YieldMagazine/35594384563 Currently, fans are heatedly conversing over LEDs in one of our discussion groups.You will also find a large library of articles on LEDs and other indoor lighting options on www. maximumyield.com in our article archive.
12 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009
We are currently working on adding a search feature to our website, www.maximumyield.com which will allow you to search through all of our articles and authors with key words. Also, all Online Extras, such as the one you are looking for, will be linked for easy access. We have two great compost tea recipes available in our Online Extras. Please follow these links to access them. http:// maximumyield.com/articles/extras/USA/MY_OE_10_08_compost_ tea.pdf from Application Parameters for Using Compost Tea by Dr. Carole Rollins (October 2008) http://maximumyield.com/articles/ extras/USA/MY_OE_05_09_DiseaseControl.pdf from A Fresh Look at Insect and Disease Controls by Erik Biksa (May 2009).
Maximum Yield reserves the right to edit for brevity.
We want to hear from you! Write us at: Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 or Email us at: editor@maximumyield.com
Coming up on the Web

Speed Read
1. For the past four months we have been giving away tons of sweet growing gear to Maximum Yield readers across the country in our Win Big! Grow Big! Contest. Enter now at www.maximum. com/winbig 2. Check out Sure to Grows chief grower, Matt Geschke as he demonstrates how these exciting products can help speed up your growing system preparations in this months featured video. 3. Did you know there is more than one way to compost? Jared Garrett examines your options.
I N D O O R
G A R D E N I N G
VOLUME 10 NUMBER 5 August 2009

Maximum Yield is published monthly by Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687 No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission from the publisher. If undeliverable please return to the address above. The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor. Publication Agreement Number 40739092
PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim Jesson GENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda Jesson SALES DIRECTOR - Lisa Lambersek EDITOR - Jessica Raymond jessica@maximumyield.com ADVERTISING SALES 250.729.2677 Linda Jesson - linda@maximumyield.com Lisa Lambersek - lisa@maximumyield.com Keri Hendry - keri@maximumyield.com Julie Madden - julie@maximumyield.com PRODUCTION & DESIGN ads@ads.maximumyield.com Pentti Tikkanen - pentti@maximumyield.com Alice Joe - alice@maximumyield.com Wes Cargill - wes@maximumyield.com ACCOUNTING - Lee Anne Veres leeanne@maximumyield.com USA DISTRIBUTION Aurora Innovations BWGS, BWGS West and BWGS East General Hydroponics Hydrofarm Hydro International National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply R&M Supply Tradewinds CANADIAN DISTRIBUTION Brite-Lite Group Biofloral Eddis Wholesale Greenstar Plant Products Inc. Hydrotek MegaWatt Quality Wholesale UK DISTRIBUTION Growth Technology Hydrogarden Northern Hydroponic Wholesale Nutriculture UK AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTION Futchatec Growth Technology Hydraspher
Similar plants will utilize nutrients differently when grown using different cultural practices.
-Erik Biksa-
upComing eventS
Two highly anticipated events for global growers: Orlando, Florida USA What:Greener Places, Sustainable Spaces When: November 7-8, 2009
Montreal, Quebec, Canada What: Return trip to this thriving Canadian city (theme to be announced) When: Spring 2010 (to be announced)
LateSt neWS
Organic plant waste an effective weed control Potted herb walls popping up in restaurants Tough recycling laws in San Francisco New advancements in research of cloned crops
Tell us what you think at editor@maximumyield.com. Wed love to hear from you.
ASK
erik
Do you have a question for Erik? Forward it to editor@maximumyield.com with the words Ask Erik in the subject line, and your answer will be printed in an upcoming edition.
My hydroponic tomato plants are up over five feet tall. How can I stop them from going higher? The norm is four feet outdoors and I cant move the light up any higher as the plants are not on the floor. Roy Thornton
The final vertical height of your crop will have a lot to do with genetics (genotype) of the crop. Some varieties are better suited to growing indoors under lights than others. As you have stated, using the same genetics indoors the plants have become taller versus the same variety you grew outdoors. What you are witnessing is the plants genetic make-up (genotype) being influenced by the physical environment to create a different physical expression of the same genes. This is often referred to as the phenotype; the physical expression of the genes as dictated by environment. Tomatoes are often classified as determinate or indeterminate varieties. Determinate means they will get to a certain height and mature, while indeterminate varieties will continue to grow upwards until they run out of room or as long as the climate allows for. Indoors, plants may not have to work as hard in some areas, like water and nutrient absorption, while they may have to worker harder in others, such as capturing solar energy from the lighting levels provided by artificial light sources. With this increased level of water and nutrient availability, but less sun, the plants are searching for light, fueled by abundant nutrients; ultimately creating more of a stretch in their growth pattern. If you are running out of room before the plants hit the lights, you can bend, train and even prune the branches and vines back. A trellis support system or six square inch grid screens can be suspended and secured at the top of the crop canopy.You may have some luck training the branches and vines to grow along more horizontally rather than vertically in the trellis netting, reducing the overall height of the crop. Once the grid is filled, and fruits or flowers have formed, you may choose to remove the main growing point of the tomato plants, so they can concentrate their energy into the fruits and flowers rather than growth. Most growers find that having more and stronger sources of blue light in their artificial light sources helps to keep internodal distances tighter. Lower humidity levels (40 to 50 per cent relative humidity) and more even light to dark cycle temperatures will also promote closer, squatter growth habits in your crop. An abundance of nitrogen or not in the correct ratio with potassium will encourage more elongated and softer growth in plants, often making them more susceptible to insects and diseases. 1) d 2) a, b, c, d 3) To keep aerobic conditions Plants produce naturally occurring growth hormones called in the rootzone by creating as much oxygen as cytokinins that help make them stockier and bushier. There possible with the airstone; preventing anaerobic activity that causes root rot 4) Because they dont are also naturally occurring soil bacteria that help to release these restrict air movement and air circulation in the hormones to plants. Some great 100 per cent organic bloom growing environment which is important in hot stimulants are available that will help to supplement these levels, weather with increased plant respiration 5) a 6) b resulting in tighter and bushier plants for growing under lights. You can also inoculate the growing medium and root Maximum Yield and Erik Biksa wish to thank you for your system with bacterial inoculants designed for use with faithful readership of "Check your Growing IQ" these past few hydroponics gardens. years. We will no longer be running this special feature in the
ANSWERS:
July 2009 quiz
Good luck and good growing. Cheers, Erik Biksa

MY
pages of Maximum Yield, however, the fun won't stop here. Stay tuned to future editions of Maximum Yield where we will feature fun hydroponic trivia for all levels of growers.
MAX
facts
hydroponic news, tips and trivia
Cloned Crops Closer to Being Realized

Cloning is a useful tool for farmers and gardeners who wish to replicate the best of their crops without the lottery of sexual reproduction. Clonal reproduction of crop species took a step closer to being realized with newly founded biology research. The authors of the research have made a form of asexual reproduction possible in a normally sexual species, turning meiosis into mitosis. Although this is not enough to reach clonal reproduction, it is a giant leap towards it. The work of the team, formed of researchers from France and Austria, could be very important commercially, because it makes the creation of stable new mutant crops much simpler. It is now much closer to being possible to produce perfect plants without the lottery of reassortment that each meiotic division and ensuing fertilization introduces.
(Source: Public Library of Science. Cloned Crops Closer To Being Realized. ScienceDaily 10 June 2009. 15 June 2009 <http://www.sciencedaily.com/ releases/2009/06/090608204055.htm>)
Hydro for Hunger Announces 2009 Sponsors and Products

Hydro for Hunger is pleased to announce the new participating vendors and products for the upcoming program year! Proceeds from the sale of the following items between July 1, 2009 and June 30, 2010 will benefit Hydro for Hunger and the global hunger relief efforts of the Institute of Simplified Hydroponics (ISH): Sunleaves: New 30 pound Indonesian Bat Guano, 25 pound Jamaican Bat Guano, 25 pound Peruvian Seabird Guano and nine pound Mexican Bat Guano Technaflora: Recipe for Success Starter Kits Hydrofarm: MegaGardens FoxFarm: Soluble Tri-Paks; Hydroponic and Soil Formula Nutrient Trios Grodan: 1.5 inch AOk Starter Plugs EastSide-Impex: Homebox Portable Grow Rooms
Vegas Restaurant Entices Customers with Potted Herb Wall

Food enthusiasts from all over the world are showing up at the Simon Restaurant and Lounge at the Palms Place condominium hotel in Las Vegas, eager to enjoy fresh herb-infused meals grown in-house. Grown under indoor LED lights, the potted herbs are enclosed behind a glass wall that serves two purposes: a beautiful and unique restaurant feature for guests to enjoy and a representation of the restaurants sustainability theme, which is also carried through in the bamboo flooring and the sustainable food menu options. This 6,000 square foot restaurant on the sixth floor of Palms Place is now one of the most sought-after eating destinations in Las Vegas.
(Source: www.solaroasis. com/showcase.html)
In addition, Maximum Yield Publications helps raise funds for Hydro for Hunger at their Indoor Gardening Expos. All proceeds from each Maximum Yield Indoor Gardening Expo assist Hydro for Hunger in their fight against world hunger. Hydro for Hunger is an initiative created by hydroponic industry leaders in 2002 to assist the Institute of Simplified Hydroponics (ISH) in its fight against world hunger. The Hydro for Hunger program raises awareness about global food shortages and directs in-kind contributions and financial donations to the ISH. The Institute of Simplified Hydroponics is a 501-C (3) not-for-profit that helps communities in developing countries become self-sufficient by teaching small-scale hydroponic food cultivation techniques. Please visit www.hydroforhunger.org to find out more about Hydro for Hunger. For more on the Institute of Simplified Hydroponics, please visit www.carbon.org
MAX
facts
Growing Power in an Urban Food Desert

Located on the northern outskirts of Milwaukee stands 14 greenhouses on two acres of land. Growing Power is the only land within the citys limits zoned as farmland. Founded by MacArthur Foundation innovator Will Allen in 1993, Growing Power is an active farm producing tons of food each year. It also serves as a food distribution hub and a training center. It is located in a portion of the city that is devoid of a full-service grocery store, but lined with fast-food joints, liquor and convenience stores that sell soda and sweets. This urban agriculture project grows vegetables and fruit in its greenhouses, as well as raising goats, ducks, bees and turkeys.
Perch
The project also has a section devoted to aquaponics where tilapia and Great Lakes Perch thrive. The water from the fish tanks flows into a gravel bed, where the waste breaks down to produce nitrogen in a form plants can use. The gravel bed supports a crop of watercress, which further filters the water. The nutrient-rich water is then pumped to overhead beds to feed crops of tomatoes and salad greens. In all there are 159 varieties of food being grown. Growing Power utilizes sustainable techniques and composts more than six million pounds of food waste every year. Growing Power provides hands-on education for school-aged children and teenagers, good paying jobs in an area of high unemployment, healthy food and a vital source of community.
(Source: www.yesmagazine.org/article.asp?ID=3328)
Watercress
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MAX
facts
Organic Plant Waste Effective Weed Control for Citrus Trees

With the recent interest in organic crop production, growers are facing new challenges, especially in the management and removal of invasive weeds. Synthetic mulches, manufactured from petroleumbased materials, have been used extensively for weed control, although they cause increased runoff. Natural and sustainable weed control alternatives that have shown to be of great help to Egyptian organic citrus fruit trees are sweeping the market. These natural options have been proven effective in weed suppression moisture conservation and improved water infiltration. A recent study found that the greatest control of weeds occurred with plastic mulch and three mulch layers of rice, straw or cattail. Their effectiveness in controlling weeds may increase their use in agriculture systems with a concomitant decrease in the need for synthetic herbicides. Further studies are being done to evaluate their side effects on beneficial organisms, diseases and insects.
(Source: American Society for Horticultural Science. Organic Plant Waste Proves Effective Weed Control For Citrus Trees. ScienceDaily 6 January 2009. 10 June 2009 <http://www.sciencedaily.com / releases/2008/12/081229104658.htm>) Peeled Satsuma mandarin
Vitamin Mix Helps Health of Farmed Fish

Agricultural Research Service fish nutritionists are making it easier for trout and other fish to get their daily dose of vitamins. Rainbow trout, farm and hatchery fish and endangered species are gobbling up a newly developed pre-blended vitamin mix that includes a dozen essential vitamins that maintains the health of these in-demand fish. This publicly available formula will replace decadesold formulas that werent adapted to todays fish-feed processing technology known as extrusion processing, which creates heat that can damage some vitamins. The formula, now manufactured by two major companies, has been added by feedmakers to more than 700,000 pounds of fish feeds.
(Source: www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/2009/090529.htm)
Farmed Trout
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MAX
facts
San Francisco Policy to Increase Citys Recycling Rate to 90%

In an aggressive push to cut greenhouse gas emissions, the city of San Francisco has voted in favor of the most comprehensive mandatory composting and recycling law in the country. Building on an already successful recycling campaign, the hope is by 2020, nothing that can be composted or recycled will be sent to the landfills. As of fall 2009, every residence and business will have three separate color-coded waste bins for recycling, composting and trash. Failure to properly sort refuse could result in a fine. Many notices will be given before an actual fine is handed out as the purpose of the project is to make recycling more convenient for everyone. If this proposal is followed effectively, approximately 23 of the 618,000 tons of waste the city sent to the landfill could be cut. Material like food scraps and plant clippings that go into landfills take up costly space and decompose to form methane, a greenhouse gas 20 times more potent than carbon dioxide. About 36 per cent of what San Francisco sends to the landfill is compostable, and another 31 per cent is recycled, according to a comprehensive study. The city currently diverts 72 per cent of its waste, which is the best in the nation. If recyclables and compostables going into landfills were diverted, the citys recycling rate would jump to 90 per cent.
(Source: www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/ a/2009/06/10/MN09183NV8.DTL&tsp=1)
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MAX
facts
Crowded Cities to Sprout Skyscraper Greenhouses

A Swedish company is in the process of developing vertical greenhouses that grow organic fruit and vegetables in the middle of crowded cities. As the amount of available land decreases and approximately 80 per cent of the global population expected to be living in cities in a few decades, the need to grow fruits and vegetables in an urban environment increases. The fresh organic produce grown daily would be sold directly to consumers in the city, saving 70 per cent in the cost to ship and store produce. Although the installation cost would be around 30 million dollars, much more than a regular greenhouse, the investment would rapidly turn a profit, according to developers. The greenhouse will utilize simple technology, and will represent the equivalent of 328,083 square feet of cultivated land. The finished project will resemble a large glass sphere with a pillar in the middle around which the seedlings rotate. Several other countries including Scandinavia and China have also expressed an interested in these vertical greenhouses.
(Source: www2.canada.com/topics/technology/ science/story.html?id=1674429)
MY
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PRODUCT
spotlight
ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.
Announcing Rootech Cloning Gel in a New Economic Size

Rootech Cloning Gel, the gel that gardeners have come to rely on, is now available in a 0.25 ounce size. Rootechs new size is ideal for the grower who leans towards small crop production. This compact jar with a resealable cap will propagate between 70 to 100 cuttings. For years, Rootech has provided its customers with the performance they have come to depend on. Easy to apply and among the strongest gels on the market, with a concentration of .55 per cent I.B.A, Rootech is ideal for propagation of the most hard-to-root plants. It can also be diluted with water for use on cuttings that will form roots more easily. To learn more about Rootech Cloning Gel visit your local hydroponics retailer.
Introducing the Flexitank

Flexitanks are food-grade water storage tanks. They fold up into a small package for easy transport, and then fill with up to 275 gallons of water. Will not rust, rot or corrode and ships for significantly less than traditional tanks. Made in the US with 22 ounces of extruded coated thermoplastic material, reinforced with polyester and nylon scrims. RF (radio frequency) welding in the fabrication process ensures fail-save welds and a contaminate-free seal. Excellent abrasion resistance along with great migration blocking characteristics. Grey color reduces UV light penetration. Fill and drain fittings included. The Flexitank is now available at an authorized retailer near you.
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PRODUCT
spotlight
Introducing the Thirsty Light

The Thirsty Light is a digital plant moisture sensor that blinks an LED to alert the user when it is time to water a potted plant. It is designed to be unobtrusive when left in the soil of a plant, where it continuously monitors conditions, testing the moisture level once per second. Thirsty Light can sense five different levels of dryness, causing the light to blink faster as the soil gets dryer, increasing the urgency of its call to action. When it reaches the fifth level, completely dry, the device goes into standby mode to conserve electricity, emitting a double blink every three seconds. There is a low-battery mode as well: a slow triple blink. The Thirsty Light comes with a comprehensive and informative user and watering guide, and is backed by a 30 day manufacturers warranty. The Thirsty Light is now available at an authorized retailer near you.
Earth Juice Hydro-Spice Grow and Bloom

Two proprietary dry-blends from the experts at HydroOrganics, Earth Juice Hydro-Spice Grow and Bloom were designed for hydroponics. The formulas contain an array of specifically selected natural plant food ingredients, including mycorrhizae and humic acid, that only need to be applied once during both the vegetative and flowering phases to supplement and aid in the correction and prevention of hydroponic nutrient deficiencies. May be used as a premix or applied as a topdressing. Do not add to hydroponic nutrient solutions (not water soluble). Available in grow and bloom formulations. May be used with a variety of hydroponic and liquid fertilizer solutions. For indoor/outdoor plants, soil and hydroponics. Growers are encouraged to visit their local hydroponics retailer to learn more.
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PRODUCT
spotlight
Trimpro Gasoline
For the fifth year in a row, Trimpro has been developing a new model of trimmer. We just put the final touch to our last model, the Trimpro Gasoline! The Trimpro Gasoline is equipped with a four stroke Honda motor. It is probably the quietest and most reliable gas motor available on the market. The speed of the motor can easily be adjusted by the user at all time. They can also use the machine either as a table top trimmer or install the Automatik top since both components are included with the machine. The Trimpro Gasoline is available at your local indoor gardening retail store.
Introducing the All-New Dirt God from Moonshine Park Farm

Moonshine Park Farm is excited to present Dirt God, a soil media mineral mix that provides long lasting biomass production for your plants. Dirt God is comprised of the microbe activated non-pathogenic ureaform nitrogen for enhancing large light-capturing leaf area and a bone meal growth accelerator, coarse dolomite lime and oystershell for long lasting soil media pH buffer. Minerals contained in each bag of Dirt God ensure that your soil media has ample nutrient carrying capacity throughout the growing season. Add a 2.6 pound bag of Dirt God to 1.5 to 2.0 cubic of soil media. Now mix in five gallons of pumice for aeration. Your plants are ready to receive the powerful growth and yield enhancement of Dirt God. Use Dirt God with our three part liquid concentrates, Phantasia, K Magic and Flourish, to fully engage your plants yield and quality potential. Visit your local indoor gardening retailer to learn more about Dirt God.
PRODUCT
spotlight
An All-Accessories Pass to the DarkRoom

Secret Jardins DarkRoom Accessories Kit contains everything you need to take your portable grow room from the empty box stage to the Look at those things grow stage! These all-in-one companion kits contain an array of handy tools that will keep return trips to the indoor gardening store to a minimum, like plant ties, pockets for environmental controllers, scissors, repair tape, cable ties, dry nets, individual plant reflectors and more! DarkRoom Accessories Kits are available in large and small sizes, with each kit offering tools and gear for a range of DarkRoom sizes. The DarkRoom Accessories Kit is now available at your local hydroponics retailer.
The New NightLight from C.A.P.

C.A.P is proud to present the NightLight. Lightweight . and durable, the NightLight attaches comfortably to your ear and shines wherever you grow! The light will not disrupt your plants environment during night time hours. Complete with an ultra bright green LED and a swivel head for versatility and easy adjusting. Three cell batteries are included. A great tool for all indoor gardeners. For more information on C.A.P products please contact your local . retail distributor.
Continued on page 124
38
STRANDS OF GOLD
growing Saffron
by Dr. Lynette Morgan
Saffron a delicate, exotic and expensive spice from far away lands? Not necessarily so. Saffron spice consists of the dark redgold, dried stigma of the saffron corm flower and has traditionally been grown outdoors on a commercial scale in countries such as Spain, India and Iran where the climate is warm and dry and labor cheap for the time consuming process of harvesting. However, saffron is not difficult to grow indoors and these days saffron bulbs are readily obtainable at the right time of year for those who want to grow some of their own exotic spice. While saffron bulbs may take up little space, their yield is somewhat low it takes around two pounds of fresh flowers to give 2.5 ounces of red stigmas, which when dried results in a yield of 0.4 ounces of usable spice. Each saffron corm usually produces between one and three flowers in a season so yields per square foot are perhaps one of the lowest of any hydroponic plant. On the other hand, most recipes only require a few strands of dried saffron, so production from a square foot of growing space is usually sufficient for most gourmets.
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The saffron plant

The saffron crocus (Crocus sativus L) grows from a small rounded corm (similar to a bulb). The corms are purchased while dormant, and planted out in late summer or early fall when they rapidly burst into life with the production of small crocus flowers. This exotic spice is made from the dried red-gold stigma which forms inside the blue/purple flower. Each flower produces on average three stigmas which gives three strands of saffron. After flowering, the plant resumes vegetative growth of thin, dark green strap like leaves and then multiplies itself with the production of many small daughter corms. Nowadays saffron corms are sold by various seed suppliers and nurseries in small quantities for home gardeners to purchase. However, bulbs are not usually available year round and are commonly advertised for sale in mid to late summer through until fall. When buying corms for the first time, it is important to realize that like many flowering bulbs, the corms come in size grades from very small (0.6 grams) which would be a non flowering type requiring an additional seasons growth, to very large (24 grams). The smaller corms are usually less expensive, but they may not produce flowers in the first season or produce a much lower yield of saffron and a lower number of daughter corms after flowering. The best planting grade for hydroponics is around 15 grams which is usually over an inch in diameter. The corms arrive dry in a dormant state ready for planting out.
Flowers and foliage bursting forth from a recently planted saffron corm.
What is saffron?
There are many imitations and cheap substitutes for saffron on the culinary market. Some of these consist of counterfeit strands while others are just color substitutes of cheaper spices such as turmeric. Saffron, although having a long shelf life, is best used within a year of drying and it is difficult to tell if product many years old is being sold as top quality spice. Nothing equals the intense color and subtle flavor of true saffron and some even claim that there are slight flavor variations between saffron grown in different regions of the world. Saffron is the worlds highest priced spice and is often sold by the gram or half gram of the best quality product. As with most crops, it is likely that the growing conditions, soil type, nutrition, temperatures, plant health and harvesting, handling and drying practices play a major role in the final quality and flavor of this spice. Hydroponic production where we have control over basic nutrition and supplements and indoors where temperature, light and the growing environment can be manipulated, give the potential for some extremely high quality saffron to be grown.
"Saffron is the worlds highest priced spice."

Each brilliant purple flower will produce two to three strands of saffron.
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Indoor Saffron
Indoors, there are two ways of running a saffron system the dormant corms can be purchased, planted, flowered, harvested and the corms discarded, all over a six week period. Or after the short flowering period, the bulbs can be grown on, producing vegetation and new daughter cormlets over a period of many months, until they become dormant in mid summer. The first system means the corms are planted at a high density since they wont be grown on and multiplied. This sort of bulb forcing could also be carried out in solution culture systems such as those used for tulips and other flowering bulbs where the corm is supported with its base in water. The second system needs more space for the plants to fully develop and many months of caring for the corms after they flower, although the reward is a supply of new corms which could be sold or given away to others and a higher yield of flowers in the next year. Tying up your hydroponic system with vegetative saffron for nine to 10 months however may not be attractive to those with limited space, although trays of saffron plants are cold hardly and can be put outside for winter and spring if necessary. Corms can be stored in a dry place and planted out when the hydroponic system is ready. The spacing should be approxi-
Saffron can be grown in the smallest of spaces and even just a pot of corms will give a good harvest.
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mately four to five inches apart and 1.5 to two inches deep, in a tray of free draining, sterile growing media such as coconut fiber with some perlite mixed in. The media needs to support the plants, but at the same time be friable enough for the young corms to form without deformities so any substrate used for baby root crops would be suitable. The flowers will have already been initiated in the corms during the summer dormancy period and flowering will occur when moisture is provided and temperatures start to drop in fall. Flowering is triggered by environmental conditions such as temperate and moisture which is easily manipulated in a hydroponic grow room. The ideal conditions during flowering are 16 hour day length with day temperatures of 62oF and night temperatures of 53oF. An indoor grow room or greenhouse situation means the flowers are protected from rain, moisture, wind and the lack of weeds makes harvesting of high quality flowers much easier.
The Grow Room

After flowering the foliage grows best at 60 to 65oF, with 12 to 14 hours of light to keep enough photosynthesis going to bulk up the developing cormlets. Saffron typically flowers in autumn over a short period, then produces a number of strap-like leaves which grow through winter, spring and into summer, providing
Saffron flowers may develop before, after or at the same time as foliage develops from the corm.
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food reserves for the corm and developing new cormlets. After flowering and harvest in autumn, foliage will develop quite rapidly and during this time, a standard vegetative nutrient should be given to the plants as required. Recommended EC levels are 1.2 1.4 during this stage. Leaf growth will continue until summer when the young corms start to rapidly develop around the mother corm. In their natural environment, the saffron plants foliage dies back in mid to late summer, after the young corms have
"The tray of saffron corms, once fully dried, can be harvested and stored away in a dry, dark place until they need to be planted out for flower production."
matured and as conditions become very warm and dry. The corms then go into a dormancy period which is essential for initiating the next seasons flowers which will bloom in the cooler, moist conditions of fall. In hydroponics we can
Long, thin strap like leaves are formed after the saffron corm has finished flowering.
easily replicate this by drying the media back after the cormlets have formed and the foliage has died down. Having a dig around one of the plants will soon reveal if the corms are ready for harvest and dormancy. The tray of saffron corms, once fully dried, can be harvested and stored away in a dry, dark place until they need to be planted out for flower production. This is a time consuming process as the saffron plant needs many months (nine to 10) after flowering, until harvest of the new corms with only one harvest of flowers per year obtained. However, each mother corm, after flowering will produce a number (four to 10 or more) young cormlets that can be used to produce more flowers and greater harvests of saffron spice in the following season.
Flowering and Harvesting

Flowering of the corms will typically occur quite quickly after planting; within a few weeks the first emerging flower buds should be seen. The flowers will fully open within three to five days and be ready for harvest. As each flower blooms, it should be plucked or snipped from the plant and taken away for processing. Inside the flower there will be two or three thinner dark red colored stigmas which form the saffron spice when dried; there will also be three,
"Saffron is very delicate and the strands should be placed on white paper and allowed to air dry and fully desiccate."
and then snip the red strands at the base. These will then need to be dried before storage. Saffron is very delicate and the strands should be placed on white paper and allowed to air dry and fully desiccate. Any slight breeze will blow the strands away and home dehydrators are not well suited to this. Being small and very light, the saffron will dry within a week in most cases and can then be stored in air tight glass jars. A small package of silicon desiccant can be used to make sure any additional moisture on the strands or in the air does not cause any storage problems. Insufficiently dried saffron can go moldy, so additional air drying time is recommended if humidity levels are high. While it has become possible for home gardeners to grow a container or pot with a few saffron bulbs outdoors, often just for the novelty of seeing the flowers, there has not been a great deal of research into hydroponic or aeroponic production of this spice. It is likely that the best system will be similar to the hydroponic production of forced tulips and other bulbs with the actual flowering phase being carried out indoors or under protection to give the highest possible blooms, while the plants are propagated and bulbs grown outdoors through until dormancy.
shorter, wider, golden colored anthers which usually have pollen on their surface these are not part of the spice and should be discarded. The easiest way of removing the saffron stigmas from the centre of the flower, is to pull back and remove all the petals
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References:
`The Growth of Saffron (Crocus sativus L.) in Aeroponics and Hydroponics Fredric V Souret and P J Weathers. Published in: Journal of Herbs, Spices and Medicinal Plants, Volume 7, Issue 3, 2000. ISBN 1049-6475 Supplies of saffron corms: http://www.nicholsgardennursery.com http://www.whiteflowerfarm.com http://www.richters.com
Harvested strands of saffron, ready for drying.
Outdoor producers are restricted to one crop of saffron per season, however with an indoor grow room, the environment can easily be manipulated to give the dry warmth of summer to initiate flowering followed by cooler, damper conditions to induce flowering whenever it is required. MY
A bevy of spicy saffron recipes are available at www.maximumyield.com
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GROWING
for health
Marjoram and Oregano

Oregano and marjoram are often confused or simply considered the same herb. They are not, however. Oregano has long been called wild marjoram, but scientists have discovered that the two herbs are actually distinct. This is hardly relevant, however, as throughout history the two herbs are used interchangeably.
Green Marjoram
Many cooks prefer to grow their own oregano. This is possible in pots or an herb garden if you live in a temperate zone. Oregano grown in cooler areas is often bitter, so be sure your garden is warm or consider growing the plant inside. An alternative method would be to grow oregano using a hydroponic system of gardening. These systems are technologically based and require no soil or direct sunlight, so they can be used anywhere - including your basement or shed.
The Variety of Oregano

Today there are a few popular kinds of oregano. The two most common are Mexican oregano, which developed after the Spanish introduced the plant to the New World, or Mediterranean oregano which has been grown wild and cultivated far longer. Mexican oregano is stronger in flavor than the Mediterranean variety, but all oregano plants can differ in intensity. Today, most Mediterranean oregano is grown in Italy and Greece, while Mexican oregano is grown in Mexico, California and New Mexico. MY Reprinted with permission by www.simply-hydroponics.com
History of Oregano
Oregano and marjoram have a history touched by the divine. It is said that Aphrodite, the Greek goddess, created the herb which accounts for its sweet smell and taste. The herb was her favorite, and it was well loved by the Greeks as well. Oregano grew wild on the hills of ancient Greece, and it was often used for grazing goats and sheep. The sweet herb was believed to make the meat of these animals more tender and delicious. In fact, the name of oregano is based on the Greek words, oros and ganos. Translated, the two words mean Joy of the Mountains, a very suitable name for a delicious wild herb. Oregano was first noticed in Greece, but was popular throughout Europe as it spread. It was introduced in the Americas by the Spanish as part of colonization, and has flourished in countries such as Mexico and the Southwestern United States.
Oregano sprig
Using Oregano
There are many uses for oregano, but the most popular are tomato based dishes. Oregano is used as a fresh sprig or dried for seasoning, and can be purchased at any grocery or cooking store. The overall flavor of the herb is warm and savory, but can be a bit bitter - especially with oregano grown in cooler climates.
? Is ThaT The BesT You CaN Do?

Nutrient Ratios for
??
Modern Crops
Who has determined what the N-P-K values and ratios are that you feed your prized crop through the vegetative and bloom phases of growth? What about other important macro elements such as calcium and magnesium, and the complex relationships that trace elements such as boron, iron, zinc and manganese have with the other nutrient ions that influence the health and development of plants? There are 13 elements that are considered vital to plant growth, with many others showing to be beneficial. This gives a lot of possibilities in terms of the potential ratios and concentrations that these elements may have in a crop feeding nutrient solution; for example think, of the possible number of combinations you could have rolling 13 dice all at once.
by Erik Biksa
loped been deve that have door "Products modern in r search on through re le to indoo ow availab growers n crops are h some logies rs, althoug growe ted techno use out-da rvests." continue to oderate ha achieve m to
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So, now back to the question: Who has determined the nutrient values and ratios in your crop feeding program? All right, well most folks are likely to say the manufacturer. Okay, so the manufacturer determined the nutrient ratios. That beckons the question of how they were able to determine what concentrations and ratios of plant nutrient elements to provide for your particular crop and at what times in the vegetative and bloom phases of growth. Well from there you can only guess, unless you have information that says otherwise. Chances are that the nutrient solution was formulated based on previous research that was performed on the nutrient requirements of various crops. Obviously, any reputable nutrient manufacturer will have also tested their formulation and will make adjustments, as required. There are hydroponic crop feeding solutions that were formulated in 1865, although Hoagland appears to have created the first complete nutrient solution in the 1930s. Since then, modern scientists and horticulturalists have learned much about plants and their nutrient requirements. One of the key points of knowledge is that different types of plants use nutrients in different quantities and ratios; creating preferred nutrient profiles for various types of plants. On top of that, the same type of plants will use nutrients differently when grown using different cultural practices or when grown in different climatic conditions. For example, outdoor field crops in natural settings that take six months to reach maturity versus indoor crops grown in artificial environments that will require only three months to reach maturity are hardly playing on the same ball field. What does this all mean, and where is this article going with it? Well, to put it bluntly, there are a surprising number of nutrient formulations that are simply wrong for modern indoor growing, and heres why: The formulation(s) has been based on un-applicable or less relevant research information. The data gathered growing field crops using conventional methods tells us something, however, it cannot be accurately used to create optimal nutrient ratios for the unique requirements of modern crops grown indoors. For optimal results, crop formulas need to be created specifically for the type of crop being grown and the types of conditions it is being grown under; whats optimal for one type of plant will not be optimal for another. One size does not fit all. However, nutrient components may be tailored by savvy growers to create the optimal profile for their particular plant type; provided that the grower knows what those ratios are. The optimal nutrient ratios change slightly through different crop developmental phases such as in the seedling/cutting phase versus the vegetative growth phase versus the bloom phase. Its important to know what these changes are and to have them reflected in the crop feeding schedule.
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Nutrient Ratios for Modern Crops

In the end, most growers are putting a lot of trust in the manufacturer of their chosen nutrients. This is all well and good, as your success as a grower will be their success as a manufacturer. However, have you really stopped to think and ask: what exactly do they know, and where have they gotten their information from? Sure, if the plant is supplied the 13 major essential elements it requires it will live and grow. If the ratios of these elements are supplied at the correct times and mirror the plants demand for those nutrients and in those ratios, the plants can grow at optimal levels. Its possible that many of us who have harvested very healthy and seemingly large yielding indoor crops were not in fact harvesting the optimal crop, leaving much more room for improvement than we may have realized. Just to back this point up a bit, consider 10 years ago that the majority of indoor growers were yielding of what they can yield today, in the same space, using the same amount of electricity.Yes, of course there are exceptions, although that does appear to be the rule of thumb. So, why the improvement? There are several reasons, including plant genetics. However, a large part of this increase can be attributed to nutrient formulations and grow gear that have started to evolve to specifically address artificial and intensive modern growing environments and the types of plants that people like to grow in them. This article is here to state that there is still much more to be done in the way of research and improvements in nutrient formulations that are intended for intensive artificial growing environments and the new breed of plants being grown in them. Products that have been developed through research on modern indoor crops are now available to indoor growers, while some growers continue to use out-dated technologies to achieve moderate harvests.
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Now thats a bold statement. Well, heres a little dose of proof: Ask an experienced grower what the most important crop element is in the bloom phase, and the vast majority of the time you will hear phosphorous, which is the P in N-P-K.Yes, phosphorous is important, now asking the grower a follow-up question along the lines of why is that the most important element? Chances are you will hear, because its used the most in the bloom phase. Wrong. Due to archaic field crop research crossed over into nutrient formulations intended for modern high producing indoor crops, there are some really huge misconceptions about what is optimal for nutrient ratios in the bloom phase for indoor crops grown in artificial environments. The simplest way to illustrate this fact is to look at one of
g re applyin wers we a r gro use the "As indoo rous beca h phospho r applications too muc ndations fo d on recomme been base ons have lati ctices." and formu culture pra r field agri outdoo
the most popular types of products in the hydroponics industry, and thats the bloom booster. The majority of bloom boosters contain very high levels of phosphorous and moderate to lower amounts of potassium. They may also contain other macro and micro elements including magnesium, sulfur and iron. Growers begin to apply these types of products through the early bloom phase and late into flowering prior to flushing the crop before harvest. There seems to be a general consensus that the modern indoor containerized (or systemized, if you prefer) plant in the bloom phase needs abundant amounts of phosphorous relative to other nutrients. Well the truth is that they do not, because:
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1. Phosphorous is highly available to containerized or systemized plants grown indoors relative to outdoor conditions where it is quickly leeched away from the root zone via mass flow. 2.When examining analytical reports charting the nutrient profile of a high yielding indoor crop at harvest (plant tissue analysis) it becomes clear that even in a variety of strains within the same plant type, that the plant requires nearly five times more each nitrogen and potassium relative to phosphorous. For example, if the plants elemental profile at harvest time was analyzed to reveal that healthy yields consisted primarily of nitrogen, potassium and calcium relative to phosphorous, why then are growers applying so much phosphorous (relative to other nutrient elements) in the bloom phase, and more importantly, what effect is this over abundance of phosphorous having on crops? To answer the first part of the question, as indoor growers we are applying too much phosphorous because the recommendations for applications and formulations have been based on outdoor field agriculture practices, which simply dont apply directly to indoor gardens. In nature the soil is very deep, and roots do not occupy the entire body of soil as they do in containers, beds or systems found with indoor gardens. Phosphorous leeches from the root zone in natural soils quickly, washing away from the contact zone with plant roots, as it drains with water further into the depths of the earth. To ensure a healthy supply of phosphorous, outdoor conventional field agricultural growers do a sort of over-application of phosphorous, because it has been determined that much of it will be quickly leeched away from the plant roots; what remains at any given time can be taken up by the crop. From this, we can learn that excessive P values in our N-P-Ks are not necessary for indoor growers, where phosphorous maintains a high level of contact within the root zone of plants grown in artificial soils and in containers, beds and systems commonly found with intensive indoor growing environments. Now what affects can excessive phosphorous levels have on crops? Firstly, excessive levels of phosphorous can create nutrient imbalances in the root zone, and consequently inside the plant.
heaviest "To build the biggest and boosters flowers and fruits, bloom just the should supply more than ratios." correct P:K
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This creates a form of stress in the plant which can diminish yield potential and increase the plants susceptibility to problems such as insects and diseases. Conversely, it can also be said that a slight stress induction from excess phosphorous may have some benefits in the late bloom/ripening phase as the plants reach maturity. However, creating this stress from early in the bloom phase and continuing it throughout will not create the correct nutrient profile for optimal harvest potential. This is not to say that growers should not supply phosphorous throughout the bloom phase, although it is to say that growers crops will yield larger harvests if phosphorus is supplied in the correct and balanced ratios with other nutrients, as determined through careful tissue analysis of indoor crops versus conventional field agricultural data. In simple terms, based on the macro and micro nutrient profile analysis of a healthy, high yielding indoor crop (plant tissue analysis) growers have some options with how best to address the nutritional requirements of their favorite crop to get bigger yields than they have ever been able to achieve before. Firstly, dont apply bloom boosters with high phosphorous to potassium ratios continually through the bloom phase. For the first week of flowering to help trigger the natural plant stresses that amplify the plants flowering process, its okay to give the crop a dose of bloom boosters that have higher P to K ratios in the NPK values stated on the label. Usually, these types of bloom boosters that are formulated for indoor crops at the onset of flowering will also have other components in the formulation that help to control vertical growth; stacking internodes and flowering sites tighter together for each foot of vertical growth to give maximum yields. After the first week of flowering where a trigger bloom booster maybe used to help ignite the bloom phase, you may begin to apply a balanced P:K bloom
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booster in conjunction with a balanced base nutrient program. If you have gleamed anything from this article, you will be wondering what the appropriate P:K ratio would be for indoor flowering crops, and current research has been demonstrating that a 1:2 ratio seems to work best, the polar opposite of some of the bloom boosters currently being used by indoor growers. To build the biggest and heaviest flowers and fruits, bloom boosters should supply more than just the correct P:K ratios. Additions of L-amino acids and other forms of reduced nitrogen will further amplify and enhance the plants natural reproductive response, leading to bigger and heavier harvests of higher quality. Magnesium and sulfur are also very important components in the bloom process of most indoor crops. In the late flowering phase, when the plant is ripening, and in some instances producing elevated levels of essential oils, a slight spike in phosphorous levels will induce a level of stress that can help to enhance crop quality. For example, this is when a 2:1 P:K ratio may be appropriate. Note that at this time, the plant is not developing structurally anymore. All crops should be sufficiently flushed of excess nutrients, beginning at least one week before the anticipated date of harvest. This is accomplished by applying a leeching agent to the growing medium or system and then running straight water possibly with digestive enzymes and/or humates for the final days before harvest. Three part base nutrient systems have been widely used and accepted through the indoor gardening community, and have been delivering great results for years. Based on modern research conducted on indoor grown high yielding crops, it was determined that using the three part nutrient system actually produced better results when being applied in a 1:1:1 ratio versus the common 3:2:1 ratio, especially when bloom boosters intended for indoor crops were used in conjunction with the three part nutrient system. 2:1 ratios of three part base nutrients were the least effective of all (where the grow component was omitted entirely through the bloom phase).
"Using the three pa rt nutrient system on indoor crops prod uces better results when being appl ied in a 1:1:1 ratio versus the comm on 3:2:1 ratio."

Upon analyzing the nutrient levels and ratios achieved in the nutrient solution for feeding indoor crops in the bloom phase, applying the base nutrients in a 1:1:1 ratio using popular three part nutrient components, the level and ratios much more closely resembled those of the internal nutrient levels and ratios of the plant being grown versus using the three part nutrient components in the common 3:2:1 method. After all is said and done, there is only really one way to find out what is going to give you the biggest and best quality harvests, and thats to experiment a little. If anything, its the hope of this article that you will begin to question where the nutrient values you are using having been derived from, and if they are in fact correct for your modern indoor crop. You just may find that by tinkering with the products you are already using or better yet, by adopting more modern formulations, that you are able to surpass even your largest yield expectations. So, if in the last decade we have been able to nearly double yields through research and experimentation on indoor crops, just imagine the types of harvest we may have in another 10 years. This advancement cannot continue, however, without growers who are willing to push the limits and boundaries of what is held as the common truth of the times, because more often than not, MY it wont remain the truth forever.
To access 10+ years of Erik Biksa's articles, visit www.maximumyield.com and click on author archive.
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BEGINNER'S
corner
LigHting:
Blue Spectrum
Hydroponics
VS Red-Orange Spectrum
by Jack Stone
Hydroponic lights play a major part in the success of your hydroponics project. Most hydroponic gardens are indoors and as such they need to have lighting of some kind. While you may be tempted to try using incandescent bulbs and lamps for light in your hydroponics system, they dont provide the right kind of light that your plants will need to thrive and grow. Hydroponics systems need full spectrum lighting that mimics the light from the sun. Specific types of hydroponics gardens will also need a specific type of lighting. Many of you that are looking to put together a hydroponics kit will find that there is a range of hydroponics lighting on the market. Hydroponic vegetables grow best in blue spectrum light, which is a cooler form of light. Metal Halide lights are the most popular form of blue spectrum lighting. Hydroponics flowering plants grow best in red-orange light. The best type of redorange light is the high pressure sodium light (HPS). Blue spectrum light is great for leafy plants, such as lettuce, radish or collard. It also helps to keep the plant nice and compact.
About the Author: Jack Stone writes articles on many topics including gardening. His website http://hydroponicslinks.com discusses various topics related to hydroponics systems, lighting, nutrients, etc. For further information on hydroponics visit his website or to read more about hydroponics lights go to http://hydroponicslinks. com/hydroponics/hydroponics-light-grow.html Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jack_Stone
Many find the plants in their hydroponics garden getting leggy as it strains for the light; blue light helps to combat this. This is the best type of hydroponics system light for a primary light source. The average metal halide light gives around 10,000 hours of good light. After that it will start to put out less and less light. The average metal halide light can put out a range of light from 175 watts to 1000 watts or more. The wattage output you choose depends on how big your hydroponics system is. Are you just putting together a small homemade hydroponics kit or are you setting up a larger hydroponics garden? High Pressure Sodium lights producing an orange-red spectrum last around 18,000 hours. Its best for flowering plants, such as paper whites and iris. The orange-red light stimulates plants hormones, which makes for more flowering in the plant. Be careful about placing a young plant under red-orange light. It may grow very quickly but you will see only vertical growth and it will become lanky and thin. This is because of the lack of blue spectrum light available to the new plant. The average wattage is about the same for red-orange lights, ranging from 175 to 1000 watts. Of course if youre looking to cover more area, then you can find professional grow lights in any spectrum with a higher wattage. The best way to light your hydroponics system seems to be with a combination of blue and red-orange light, to keep plants compact and flowering. Or you can simply purchase a full spectrum light; you can buy fluorescent lights for this. They are available in tubes or compact bulbs. Fluorescent lighting is mostly used to grow seedlings, but it will certainly grow a plant to maturity. This type of lighting can be an easy way to light your hydroponics system without the complication of hooking up both blue and red-orange lights or remembering which is which.
MY
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by Evan Folds
Most of us know somebody or have heard a story of someone who speaks to their plants. Even Prince Charles is well known for his fondness of conversing with plants, saying in a television interview in 1986 that it was very important to talk to plants and that they respond when spoken to. When giving talks on subjects of metaphysical gardening it is always interesting to hear the stories of success and confirmation offered by people who attend and feel compelled to share their experiences. Some profess to whispering sweet nothings or singing their favorite songs to their plants and others tell of how they notice that certain types of music have markedly different effects on plants in their homes or offices. Of course the people do not produce proof, yet they know it is true. This subjective certainty is born of practice and intuition and is quite lost from the modern approach to science, but is not to be ignored.
Plants and Sounds
Its easy to be confused when discussing the idea of frequencies. We measure light and sound in the same way (hertz), but how are they different? We have to rely on instruments to measure these frequencies and most of what we pay attention to is the numbers, not what the numbers actually mean. When we think of measurable frequencies in regards to growing plants, most of our attention is directed towards the visible portions of the electromagnetic spectrum (ROY G BIV). The electromagnetic spectrum is defined by light waves and, in addition to the visible portion, is comprised of radio waves, infrared, x-rays and gamma rays. However, the electromagnetic spectrum does not contain sound waves. Light, electricity and magnetism are all manifestations of electromagnetic radiation and do not need a medium to travel through, but sound waves are like ripples in a lake or a flag. They rely on the molecules in water and air to get from A to B, which is why light waves travel through space and sound does not. Considering this, when was the last time you paid attention to what it sounds like in your grow room? What if the question was not which light to purchase, but what album?
"Light, electricity and magnetism are all manifestations of electromagnetic radiation and do not need a medium to travel through, but sound waves are like ripples in a lake or a flag."
The sounds of nature are innumerable and clumsily consistent, resulting in a symphony of subtle sounds flowing together to create a living and vibrant concerto. Since time immemorial plants have been serenaded in these seasonal sounds and have come to rely on them in the same way they have other environmental factors for growth. Is this really such an unexpected thing? Of course, one should not expect to be able to replicate this natural phenomenon with any exactness, but with persistence and research we can tap into this symbiosis in order to enhance the growth of our plants, or more directly, attempt to replicate the natural environment from which they have been removed. Researchers have demonstrated that plants respond to acoustic energy in profound ways that not only influence their overall health, but also increase the rate of growth and size of the plant. Through years of research and a stroke of spiritual insight, Dan Carlson determined the combination of frequencies found between 3,000 to 5,000 kHz causes the stomata of plants to open and absorb nutrients more efficiently. Because the ability and desire of the plant to take up nutrition was altered due to its enhanced capability, it took 15 years to develop a corresponding foliar spray designed specifically for
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Plants and Sounds

Another pioneer in the realm of acoustic gardening is Joel Sternheimer. He studied elementary particle physics at Princeton and through his studies of scale resonance was inspired to investigate the vibrational frequencies of amino acids. The ribosome is the factory of the cell; it catalyzes the creation of proteins from a variety of 20 amino acids depending on the needs of the cell and the corresponding organism. During this process of translation in the ribosome, the amino acids are considerably slowed, allowing researchers to measure the specific frequency of each one as a note. When the sequence of a certain protein is recognized, each amino acid (note) can be transcribed into a sequence, or melody. When Sternheiner successfully replicated the correct melodies for the selected proteins he noticed that it encouraged the production of the corresponding protein and stimulated growth. After all, amino acids are critical to life. Sternheiner has filed for several patents based on his work and claims that tomatoes exposed to his melodies grew 2.5 times as large as those that were untreated. In the landmark book The Secret Life of Plants (1973) the research of Dorothy Retallack is investigated. In order to complete her music degree she chose to experiment with plants using different types of music as a laboratory experiment. Amazingly, through rigorous trial and error she determined that plants prefer classical music - such as Brahms, Beethoven and
"The sounds of nature are innumerable and clumsily consistent, resulting in a symphony of subtle sounds flowing together to create a living and vibrant concerto."
use with the sound frequencies Carlson called Sonic Bloom. His insight has been used by countless farmers and even resulted in growing the largest indoor plant on record according to the Guinness Book. Purple Passion plants normally grow about 18 inches and live 18 months. When treated with the Sonic Bloom process, Carlsons plant grew to 1,300 feet and was still alive 25 years later. Sonic Bloom has been chronicled in the book Secrets of the Soil and is now available for use from industry wholesalers, so let the experiments begin!
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Plants and Sounds
Schubert - over rock and roll, such as Zeppelin and Hendrix. Oddly, Jazz recordings from artists such as Duke Ellington and Louis Armstrong resulted in roughly half of the plants being experimented on leaning towards the speaker and half leaning away. Through more experimentation Retallack concluded that it was not the genre of music having the influence, but the range of instruments and resonance used. She determined that the percussion frequencies of music were harmful to plants, resulting in as little as 14 the root growth of control plants and in some cases death. It is research such as this that forces us to consider the subtle senses of plants. Specimens such as Mimosa pudica and the Venus Fly Trap are sensitive to touch, so is it not plausible that plants can also listen? In 2007 South Korean scientist Mi-Jeong Jeong claimed playing Beethovens Moonlight Sonata to rice plants encouraged quicker growth and blossoms to bloom earlier. The researchers claim they have identified plant genes that can hear, potentially allowing farmers to switch specific plant genes on and off with enormous repercussions. The results showed that sounds at specific frequencies 125 hertz and 250 hertz - made genes rbcS and Ald more active, whereas sound waves at 50 hertz made them less active. Because both are known to respond to light, they repeated the experiments in the dark and concluded definitively that the sound was causing the effect. The researchers speculated that the production of chemicals that lead to the genetic changes they observed could be harnessed to activate other specific genes that could trigger the enhanced flowering of crops. In a more recent development, the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS), Britains leading gardening charity dedicated to advancing horticulture, has initiated a serious study investigating the efficacy of talking to plants. Gardener Colin Crosby says, We know that sounds of between 125 hertz and 250 hertz can affect gene ex80 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009
pression in plants and help them grow, but this has only been tested using music. For the first time we will be able to advise people not only whether its worth talking to their plants but exactly how it should be done. We may even be able to standardize the practice by recording the perfect voice for those less confident in conversing with their plants. Toby Buckland, lead presenter on BBC Gardeners World, says, A lot of thinking behind this is that if a gardener is relaxed, it helps the plants grow better. Plants do pick up on your stress, thats something thats well known, and if youre not confident, its as if its a self-fulfilling prophecy for failure. http//news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/7973727.stm It can be a very profound and life-changing experience to become comfortable with how at ease others are in the realms of the supersensible and plant sensation. It can literally change your view of the world on a dime. Could it be that plants can truly pick up on our emotions, that they can sense our presence and react to our voices? This may be a new question for you, but how are we supposed to know unless we try? Rather than questioning whether plants are affected by sound, maybe we should be asking ourselves why they wouldnt. It turns out that sometimes plants create sounds themselves as well. On a business trip into the backwoods of Siberia in 1994 an entrepreneur named Vladimir Megre met two elderly gentlemen who told him about the amazing properties of the Siberian cedar. The men explained to Vladimir that the trees grow to be around 500 years old, but every 1000 years or so after 550 years of its life, one of the elderly trees begins to ring audibly. As the two men described, the Siberian cedar is a conduit of high amounts of beneficial energy and this is the trees way of communicating that it is ready to share. After Vladimirs return to the place where he met these elderly men he met their granddaughter Anastasia, who he lived with for a period of time in the taiga of Siberia. Anastasia taught Vladimir many things and showed him how she was attempting to help right the wrongs of the world from afar. From his experiences, and despite the fact that Vladimir is not a writer, he has written eight books about his experiences that have now been translated into over 20 different languages and been remarked upon by people ranging from the President of Russia Dmitriy Medvedev to the author of Chicken Soup for the Soul Mark Victor Hansen. The book series, as well as pendants, nut oils and other Siberian cedar related products, can be found under the name Ringing Cedars of Russia on a simple web search. We certainly didnt learn about any of this in school, but open your mind and you may be surprised what you might find. Next time someone tells you youre crazy for talking to your plants, you can tell them where to goto the local library. MY
A multitude of innovators have tested the theories of sounds effect on plants. Learn more about them at www.maximumyield.com
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GREEN THUMB
gardening
In Search of the Mythical Green Thumb

They say there are people so possessed in an extraordinary, inherent ability to make things grow that they simply have to look at a seed, touch a cutting, caress a branch or stroke a leaf and it will sprout, grow and prosper at the speed of light. If you believe this to be true then perhaps youd be interested in purchasing the slightly damp Dismal Swamp at a very good price of two dollars per acre and be done with it. You, however, are not that gullible.You should know, #1- the Dismal Swamp is currently not for sale at any price and #2the Mythical Green Thumb is exactly that, mythical. It does not exist, never has, never will. What does exist is folks who learn from plants and, therefore, are more apt to be able to have green things do their bidding. It truly isnt that difficult to make things grow. We all start at the beginning. Its just that some of us keep at it until it looks like we have a special touch or a green thumb if you will - mostly to those who have long since put up their hands in defeat.
by Glory Lennon
So, if this is the case, how is the brown thumbed among us to get green? To use the old Nike catch phase, Just do it. To earn the title of a person possessing a green thumb (yes, it needs to be earned) you must be willing to get not only your hands dirty but also your knees, shoes, clothes and even your nose. The true mark of an accomplished green thumber is a pollen-yellowed nose from too much flower smelling. If you didnt even know that much then we do have our work cut out for us so lets get started. Seeds As seeds are the beginning of life, any life, so shall we begin with them. The seed can be practically microscopic as in those of the Foxglove plant, Digitalis Purpureum, to the largest, the coconut. Thats right, the coconut is the seed of the coconut palm and if you were to plant a coconut it would, eventually, grow into a tree. Some seeds can be tricky while others are so eager to sprout they merely need to touch moist soil to germinate. It is these kinds of seeds the beginning gardener should try just to get the hang of things and build their confidence. Confidence is the one thing green thumbers have in abundance whether they deserve it or not. If you were to take Marigold, Sunflower, Daisy, Black-Eyed Susan or Liatris seeds and scatter them in a haphazard manner over nicely tilled, rich loam soil, gently pat them in place then water well you would be hard pressed not to build yourself some confidence when you see them all sprout up and leaf out. They are that easy to grow. Cuttings While a bit trickier the cutting can be the first attempt at hydroponic gardening in the simplest of forms. Golden Pathos, the ordinary house plant with the typical vining habit and variegated leaves, Philodendron, Coleus or even Willow or Forsythia branches can all be easily rooted in water and once they grow roots they can be planted in pots for indoor use or straight into the garden. Propagating in this manner is called vegetative but to make you remember it better just think cloning.Youve taken a piece of a mother plant and cloned it into an exact copy.Your thumbs looking greener already, isnt it?
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Transplants While green thumbers scoff at those who buy transplants from the garden center instead of growing their vegetables from seeds, the beginner need not feel he is a failure for doing so. There is plenty of time for getting into all aspects of the gardening experience. For now, the beginner should take things easy and just do something for the garden. Anything at all is good to start even if it is just grabbing a couple each of Roma Tomato, Jalepeno Pepper, Basil, Pumpkin, Zucchini or Cabbage plants. The trick is to start slow with only a few and see how it goes from there. Composting The one thing all gardeners can count on is weeds but what to do with them is what distinguishes a true green thumber from the others. Composting weeds, kitchen scrapes and other garden waste such as trimmings from hedges, lawn clippings and dead autumn leaves will not only give you a viable way to rid yourself of that seemingly useless stuff but it will also produce something more valuable than gold to a gardener bent on going organic. That stuff is rich, sweet-smelling compost which can be used to improve soil and provide nutrients to plants without having to buy anything.Yeah, this amazingly wonderful stuff is free. Imagine that! These are just a few suggestions for those plagued by what could be called brown thumbitis, a vicious, albeit imaginary, affliction which anyone can overcome with enough determination, enough fiddling in the soil and more tenacity than your average Dandelion. If the plants grow, and there really isnt any reason why they shouldnt if you tend them and water them regularly, then all is fine. If, however, they die, then try again. Whatever you do dont just give up. Rule # 1, green thumbers never quit. So, do your brown thumb a favor. Grab a bunch of seeds, a few cuttings, a handful of transplants, plant them and make yourself a compost heap and soon enough, if you never give up, you too will be known in the neighborhood as having the Mythical Green Thumb. Best of all is you need not tell them there is no such thing. Let them figure it on their own or you can direct them to this article so they too can try to earn the MY magical green thumb. Whichever you prefer.
World With
by Lee McCall
hydroponics
ost desirable r the crops mt varieties of "Suited fo the differen standards, nd sugar cane plantlets bananas a ated through precise l are cultiv engineering to revea tissue culturer genetic value." superio
La Villette An indoor plantation Paris, France

Approximately 20 hours of continuous lay-over and international travel time has passed since our initial departure in Denver, Colorado. As we finally touch down at Charles De Gaulle in Paris, France, the local time is 9:27 a.m. and the jet lag is imminent. A few years have passed since my last visit to Europe, and Im anxious to start exploring my new surroundings in this major metropolis. We enjoy international travel and the many historic, tourist attracting elements that any other average person might encounter en route across the globe; however, I do understand the significance of experiencing different culture and lifestyle beyond the day-tripper attraction. Before my actual arrival into Paris I had mixed feelings about things that I had heard from experienced visitors, and what to expect. First and foremost, I do not speak French so the language barrier on my account was expected. My fianc however, being fluent in three different languages, developed a strong basis of knowledge by studying incessantly for months prior to the trip, so we werent exactly hopeless in the reality of the situation. Anyways, this is the real reason why you, the avid reader and gardening junkie are spending the time to take interest in this feature article that seems to have nothing to do with indoor gardening or bettering your yield. Fact of the matter is, unlike my
previous articles that focus on real-time gardening conditions, this piece is engineered to inform people that global hydroponics and gardening is a universal practice that can benefit society. La Villette is a sector of the Paris metro housing the citys greatest museum of science, technology and industry. My initial instinct says Ive made a huge mistake as we leave the subway and are engulfed by swarms of everything ranging from two to 10 years old, screaming for random approval from their guardians as they stampede the childrens exhibits. Aside from that, the inside of the building is vast consisting of two levels with a variety of different displays focusing on themes of light, water, space and sound.
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Around the World With Hydroponics: La Villette

Although not highly publicized, the impressive indoor greenhouse on the second level is fully equipped featuring rows of indoor cultivated sugar cane and plots of banana trees. Quickly, I scramble through the crowds and make my way towards the exhibit. Multiple banks of both metal halide and high pressure sodium fixtures provide the proper photosynthetic qualities needed for precise production. The heat signatures are minimized through keeping the actual lighting apparatuses outside of the tempered glass roof, but due to desired environmental conditions it is still roughly 85F with 80 per cent humidity inside the mostly sealed grow room. State of the art ventilation and environmental controllers including automated humidification devices help maintain the specific climatic qualities. Custom emitters disperse fine droplets of water into the atmosphere and amongst the vegetation, yielding ideal humidity levels for optimum growth and production native
to the crops natural climate.Ventilation is controlled through the buildings central system that incorporates custom duct work to and from the area. It is capable of completely reversing the conditions of the room in minutes with its potential output and coverage.
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"Ventilation is controlled through the buildings central system that incorporates custom duct work to and from the area." The feeding process was very intriguing as well; operating on a commercial automated dosing system that nurtures the plants mechanically, even though cultivation takes place in an organic medium. A 14 gallon per minute water-powered, non-electric injector accurately mixes the nutrients into water lines using volumetric proportioning. Regardless of variations in the pressure and flow, the mixture rate remains consistent. When water enters the injector, it triggers a hydraulic motor which begins moving up and down inside the body of the injector. On the up stroke, the system draws fluid up from the concentrate tank in an action similar to a hypodermic syringe. On the down stroke the concentrate is displaced into a mixing chamber, where it is mixed with the water flowing through the unit. The water-and-chemical mixture is then discharged into the water lines. Coconut coir mats laid throughout each garden plot protect the top of the sugar cane containers from light and other hazards that could penetrate the root zone. Beneficial microbe and fungal activity is evident in the banana tree media that appears to be a specific mix heavy in bark that holds adequate amounts of moisture. Suited for the crops most desirable standards, the different varieties of bananas and sugar cane plantlets are cultivated through precise tissue culture engineering to reveal superior genetic value. There is a fully encased tissue culture system display in the room housing multiple jars of specimens that are thriving in different stages of growth occupying very little space. This method of advanced propagation provides incomparable turnover rates, and the capability of superior mass production with genetic control and manipulation. Insecticides
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are not required or applied for five years due to advanced techniques and methods achieved through genetic manipulation. I surprisingly didnt see one bug or any sign of crop damage in the rainforest like conditions maintained within the exhibit. Considering all of the people that are exposed to the area, the indoor grow room is one of the cleanest Ive ever witnessed, providing commercial plantation and a successful display. As the subway carries us back towards our hotel I am satisfied with what I have seen. The exhibit available to the public is an example I hope to see more of as we plan our next destination for travel somewhere else. Leaving Paris and now en route back home to Denver, but first a quick stop in New Orleans for a 10 p.m. to five a.m. over-night layover. This sounds tiresome, and normally is, but fortunately for us,
we have many friends in great cities like this who are willing to taxi us around upon arrival. A quick late-night tour that will result in greasy bar food and cold beverages courtesy of the famous Bull Dog Tavern, provides us the necessary fuel to arrive contently back home at such early hours. A cheeseburger cooked in a great neighborhood pub is an excellent, must needed change of pace from the previous week of various terrines, foie gras and wild greens, sausage (hot dogs) wrapped in French baguettes, poached eggs coated in parmesan cheese then fried, white-wine mustard sauces, escargot and red wine with far too many tannins for my taste. We are satisfied with the overall experience obtained, yet relieved to arrive back to our U.S. normality. The feeling of arriving home afterwards makes traveling much more enjoyable. Paris is a great city with much to offer. The public transportation system is easy to navigate after the first couple days of wandering the city so it is in best interest to purchase a two day to one week pass that allows access to all subways and public busses. The Bastille was our favorite part of Paris; a very live square lined with restaurants tapas, dessert bars, small clubs and various boutiques. After traveling 3000 miles to get here, I have yet again furthered my knowledge
base and hopefully yours for worldwide indoor cultivation. Aside from the hobby and studies of indoor gardening, researching it across the globe in relation with different cultures is truly fascinating to observe. The ability to see such a great art utilized across the planet shows the similarity and differences between how society operates, and gives us a greater understanding of different cultural practices and behavior. MY
References: http://www.cite-sciences.fr/francais/ ala_cite/expositions/banane-et-canne-asucre/partenaires.htm http://www.cite-sciences.fr/francais/ ala_cite/expositions/banane-et-canne-asucre/credits.htm http://www.cite-sciences.fr/francais/ ala_cite/expositions/banane-et-canne-asucre/index-flash.htm
Captivating images that further demonstrate La Villette's incredible indoor growing set-up are available at www.maximumyield.com
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Come Clone with Us sU htiw enolC emoC

The best way to make sure the genetic qualities of a mother plant are reproduced is to make clones. Cloning is usually done within a propagator to ensure a higher humidity. However, in a humid environment, fungus and bacteria grow easier and faster on the substrate. Because Im already in a high humidity area and my mother plant is in a room with an 18 hour lamp, I dont need extra equipment.
by Kevin Dunlop
Necessary Equipment quality nutrient solutions rooting gel it stops plants from wilting and has vitamin B1 in it pair of sterilized, sharp scissors cup of water at room temperature cutting board single edged razor blade or scalpel pick to widen hole for rooting gel (a toothpick works well) bacteria killer day-night (min/max) thermometer EC meter pH test meter growing media (I am using organic starter cubes, but you can also use organic plugs made from compressed peat for great results. Starter cubes and compressed plugs are ideal for soil growing, as theyre biodegradable. If growing in coir, try compressed plugs or starter cubes).
Other equipment to consider is a heated propagator, a propagation light and, if youre doing many clones, you may want to consider a grow tent cloning station, which is an all in one cutting table and propagation/mother plant tent. A friend of mine has got one of these inside his main growing tent and it keeps everything neat, tidy and sterile. Choose a mother plant that has proved itself to you, something that is sturdy and has vigorous growth. Preparations 1. Set up a table to work on. 2. Adjust the room temperature to 72 to 77F. 3. Mix up your plant start nutrient to the strength recommended on the bottle.Your water temperature should be between 68 to 72F. Adjust the pH to between 5.8 and 6.5.Your EC optimal range should be set to 0.7 to 1.0. (When your EC is too high, it will burn the clones causing disastrous results). 4. Soak the growing media cubes in the nutrient solution and place them on the table. 5. Make a good size hole to take the rooting gel. The hole should be enlarged so it is ready to take the gel. 6. Add the gel to the growing media making sure you have about a little fingernail amount in a hole so that it completely surrounds the stem. (Do not use a rooting hormone, as this will overload your clone). 7. Mark the date of cloning and the variety of plant on your tray. 8. Sterilize the scissors, the cutting block and the razor blade or scalpel thoroughly. Suggestion: Cut more clones than you need to ensure a good variety to choose from; its always better to have too many than too few!
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Come Clone With Us

How to Clone 1. Select a stem from your designated mother plant and cut it off at a 45 angle if at all possible. (figure 1 and figure 2) 2. Put the stem immediately into the cup of water. 3. Trim individual clones from the stem leaving at least three leaves on each clone and cut the stem into equal lengths (approximately four inches) using the cutting block. Make sure each cut is clean with no ragged bits; again try cutting the stem at a 45 angle if at all possible. (figure 3) 4. Now, place the clones in the gel filled holes in the organic starter cubes. 5. Fill your tray or cloning system with your selected clones. 6. Spray your clones with water or a weak foliar feed that is rich in calcium. 7. When using a strong light (400 to 600 watts) to root clones, hang the light as high as possible (five feet above your trays). Its preferable to use a softer light such as fluorescent tube lighting; if this is the case, place the light as close as possible to the clones. A cool white fluorescent lamp that is economical and gives off a low amount of heat will do the trick. 8. During the rooting phase, avoid direct air movement. (No direct ventilation on the clones).
Figure 1. Select a stem from your designated plant. Figure 2. Cut the stem off at a 45 angle.
Figure 3. Make sure each cut is clean with no ragged bits.
Maintenance Spray clones every day half way through the light cycle, so they are dry when the lights go out. If you live in a low humidity area you need to spray more often. Water the tray of cubes thoroughly every other day. Check day-night temperature; ideal rooting temperature is 68 to 77F. Continue to do this until roots appear; this should take approximately 10 to 14 days. Once this is accomplished you are able to transplant the exact replicas of your mother plant into larger growing blocks or whichever system you are using and take them on to full maturity safe in the knowledge that your produce will be of good quality. MY
Stay tuned to www.maximumyield.com for additional articles on cloning.
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TIPS &
tricks
What is pH? Part II

by Grodan
Monitoring pH in the slab Monitoring pH in the slab is an essential part of weekly nutritional monitoring and should be undertaken on a daily basis. Sampling should take place in a number of representative slabs in order for a meaningful and accurate assessment to be made. Sampling is easy; simply push a syringe into the slab and extract a small quantity of nutrient solution (three ounces). Record the value and plot this on a graph this will make it easier to identify trends. than positive ions. The influx of negative ions such as nitrate-nitrogen (N-NO3-) will result in the plant's roots giving off either the negatively charged bicarbonate ion (HCO3-) or hydroxyl ion (OH-). When this occurs, the pH of the root zone will increase. The influence of the plant on its own root zone environment is so strong that the grower may be inclined to continue to irrigate with progressively lower and lower pH feed solutions. However, there is a significant risk associated with this strategy. If the grower chooses to irrigate with a low pH feed solution in an attempt to bring the pH of the root zone down, then the risk of root damage and crop damage, leading to poor quality fruit is significantly increased. Also, as the pH of the feed decreases, the solubility of certain micronutrients is decreased. Under these conditions, zinc, manganese and phosphate uptake by the plant is reduced. Thirdly, if the grower continues to reduce the pH of the feed (drip) solution in response to an increase in the pH of the slab solution, then more and more of the bicarbonate, the pH stabilizing factor in the feed water, will be destroyed. The result will be loss of pH stability in both the feed and slab solutions. Consequently, the pH of the slab solution may fluctuate widely on a daily basis. During the strong vegetative growth phase of the crop, the plant will be influencing the pH of the labs in an upward direction. This is the reason why you experience pH going up in your
Early season vegetative growth pushes slab pH up. During the strong vegetative growth phase of the crop, the plant will be influencing the pH of the slabs in an upward direction. Measuring and tracking the pH in the slab will help you take the proper steps to control this important, yet often overlooked, factor During the strong vegetative growth phase of the crop, the plants will be taking in proportionately more negative ions
stock tank. The change of pH has nothing to do with the medium when you are using an inert medium such as rockwool. Ammonium (NH4+) The ammonium ion (NH4+) is readily absorbed by plant roots. This will cause the pH in the slab to decrease. The addition of this ion to the feed solution can be beneficial during periods of strong vegetative growth in order to keep the slab pH in balance. One question often asked by growers is: "Does the plant live mainly on the irrigation (feed) water from the drippers, or does the plant live off the water in the slab?" Both solutions are important to the plant - but at different times of the year. How does this question tie into the issue of pH in January? Under January and February light conditions, the grower will be irrigating with long irrigation sessions (large volumes) fairly infrequently. As a result, the plant will not be experiencing the feed solution very often and, therefore, will be relying on the slab solution for sustenance. However, in the summer, when the irrigation volumes are smaller but applied much more frequently, the plant will be able to rely on the feed solution coming into the block for sustenance. The optimum pH for absorption of nutrients by the plant is somewhere between 5.5 and 6.0. Therefore, the pH of the feed solution coming out of the drippers must be set so that the slab solution (the important solution in the winter) is adjusted to the optimum level. During strong vegetative growth, the pH of the feed (drip) solution may need to be as low as 5.3 to 5.5 in order to achieve the desired pH in the slab without destroying too much of the stabilizing bicarbonate ion. If the grower neglects to monitor the slab pH and only looks at the feed (drip) pH, a high pH condition may develop in the slab. As the pH in the slab rises above 6.5, the uptake of phosphate, iron, manganese and boron becomes less
and less. Furthermore, there may also be a deposition of calcium phosphate (gypsum) within the slab. MY
Effect of the slab pH of the health and productivity of the plant. pH 5.5 to 6.0 on average Optimum availability of nutrients for the plant pH Below 4.5 Root damage and as a result, crop damage leading to poor quality and yield. Often seen when the plant changes from a vegetative state to a generative state. pH on average 6.0 or higher This is usually the result of the plant being too vegetative. It has not been established if this will cost production but it may reduce fruit quality if it occurs at the wrong time of the year.
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Lighting Basics
by Bob Taylor : Chief Chemist of Flairform
Although artificial lighting produces an imperfect spectrum compared to the sun, it does allow control of variables such as duration and intensity.
Equipment Overview Artificial lighting requires the use of a ballast (used to ignite then regulate current to the lamp), a shade or reflector (directs light towards the plants and usually incorporates the lamp holder/socket), a timer (controls when the lights turn on and off) and the lamp itself (figure 8.1).
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Figure 10.2: Lamp selection (from left to right) 'High pressure sodium' (HPS), 'metal halide' (MH), 'strip fluorescents' (SL), 'compact fluerescent' (CFL).
Lamp Selection (Optimizing Color Spectrum) Photosynthesis occurs mainly within the visible light spectrum (wavelength range 400 to 700 nanometers). Within this range, 445 nanometers (blue) and 650 nanometers (red) are needed most. HID: High Intensity Discharge lamps (HID) are generally used for the vegetative and flowering/fruiting phases due to their high lumens per watt rating. (HIDs produce five times as many lumens per watt than incandescent lamps figure 10.2). The following types of HID are commonly used: Metal Halide (MH): Produces light predominantly blue in color. This is ideal for strong vegetative growth (e.g. larger leaves, thicker stems) and a shorter, dense plant (i.e. shorter internodal spacing), which will utilize light more efficiently. High Pressure Sodium (HPS): Produces more red light. This promotes flower onset and production and is, therefore, more suited to the flowering/fruiting phase. Unfortunately, MH and HPS lamps each require a different ballast and lamp holder. Therefore, it is common practice to use a HPS lamp for both vegetative and flowering especially if plants have a very short vegetative phase. However, using HPS throughout can promote tall and spindly growth in many species. Blended light lamps: To save needing a separate lamp kit (lamp, ballast and lamp holder) for both vegetative (MH) and flowering (HPS), blended light lamps are available. These produce a more balanced spectrum of red and blue light. Fluorescent: Fluorescent lamps produce less lumens per watt compared to HID lamps, hence their use is limited to plants needing low to medium light intensities, such as seedlings, clones, herbs, orchids and lettuce. They are simpler to use than HID lamps because they generate less heat. These are broadly categorized as either strip fluorescents (SL) or compact fluorescents (CFL) and are available in different wattages and color temperatures (figure 10.2). Those of high color temperature (known as cool white)
Copyright @2008 www.flairform.com
Lighting Basics
6.6ft (2.0m)
600W HPS 3.3ft (1.0m)
600W HPS
3.3ft (1.0m)
Figure 10.3: From Table 10.1, we can estimate that 2 x 600W HPS lamps would be suitable for lighting an area 3.3 x 6.6ft (2.0m x 1.0m).
are more blue in color and more suited to vegetative growth and development of seedlings/clones. Lower color temperatures (warm white), are redder in color and, therefore, better for flowering. CFLs are generally available in higher wattages than SLs and thus, are suitable for species needing higher light intensities. Optimizing Light Intensity Insufficient light will produce sparse foliage, spindly branches and poor flowering. This can occur because lamp size (and type) is inadequate; lighting duration is inadequate; foliage is too far away from the lamp; or foliage is being shaded by other plants.
Lamp size: A lamps size is measured in watts (W). The size of the growing area will partly determine the required wattage see table 10.1 and figure 10.3. Plant height: A plants height must be considered when determining lamp size because light intensity diminishes rapidly as distance from the lamp increases. (Table 10.1 shows the drop in intensity from one to three feet). For example, imagine your plants covered an area of three by three feet.You may be tempted to use a 400 watt lamp instead of a 600 watt HPS (i.e. power costs are 50 per cent less, and it generates less heat). However, if a significant proportion of the foliage is three feet from the lamp, the intensity is only 5,555 lumens per square foot. This intensity may be insufficient for the species being grown. By choosing a 600 watt HPS, the intensity would be roughly double (assuming equal gap between lamp and foliage).
HINT: It is also preferable to keep plants as short (and therefore wide) as possible. This can be achieved by removing the growing tip and also restraining upwards growth (and training sideways growth) by erecting netting at an appropriate height.
Plant density/shading: Shading becomes an issue when plants are positioned too close to one another. Hence, it is generally more productive to plant less than more. Lamp height: To best utilize lamp output, position the lamp as close as possible to the top of plants without causing photorespiration or burning of foliage (see table 10.1 for minimum gap guidelines). Air cooled shades should be used because they enable lamps to be positioned much closer to foliage particularly beneficial for 1,000 watt lamps (figure 10.4).
Figure 10.4: The heat generated by HD lamps is the biggest problem facing indoors growers, especially in summer. An effective way of removing this heat by directly ducting heat away through air cooled shades. These simplify ventilation requirements by minimizing hot spots and enable lights to be positioned closer to foliage.
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Lighting Basics
Figure 10.5: Lamp shades help maximize lamp reflection. They are either painted white or plated with a highly reflected material.
Effective working life: A lamps intensity will diminish with use, and may also use more power. Note that MH lamps have a shorter effective working life than HPS. Also note that the capacitor in magnetic ballasts will deteriorate with use and consequently the light intensity will diminish. Ask the manufacturer for the useful working life of these items. Lamp orientation: Lamp directions will specify whether a lamp can be orientated vertically, horizontally, etc. Failure to comply can cause poor lumen or color output, and shorten the lamps life span. Safety: Consider safety at the design stage: Keep power devices and junctions away and/or above any potential water spillages/ floods. Determine whether the electrical lines can handle the current draw. Where multiple lamps are being lit ensure to stagger start up times. HID lamps draw large amounts of electricity, therefore, safety must be a priority. As an overall safety measure, install a miniature circuit breaker (MCD) and residual current device (RCD). If there is a faulty circuit these will cut the power supply (figure 6.23). MY
Lamp shades: These help maximize the amount of light directed towards the plants (figure 10.5). Shades need to be hung so that their height can be easily adjusted as plants grow. For safety, ensure mounts are securely fastened to the ceiling. Light cycles: Plants generally require 18 hours of light per day during the seedling and vegetative phase. During flowering/ fruiting however, the duration can be reduced to 12 hours. Growth can suffer if lighting intervals are irregular. Therefore, employ a timer to help ensure consistency. Note also, vital processes occur during the night (lights off) period, therefore, avoid interrupting it by turning lights on. Reflective material: The use of reflective material on walls (etc.) helps ensure that light is not wasted through absorption. Hints for Set-up and Maintenance Light meter: Useful for determining whether light levels are adequate throughout the garden, and for routinely checking if lights are operating to specification (figure 10.6).
Copyright @2008 www.flairform.com Figure 10.6: Light meters are essential for verifying that all foliage is receiving sufficient light.
Figure 6.23: A miniature circuit breaker (MCD) and residual current device (RCD) are indispensable when water and electricity are in close proximity.
Calculating electricity costs: Cost of power per day = Cost of power per kilowatt* x Total kilowatts** x daily duration. e.g. If the cost of power is $0.10 per kW and there are two 600 watt lamps (1.2kW) alight for 12 hours per day, the daily cost of electricity is $1.44 (i.e. $0.10 x 1.2kW x 12hrs) *Refer to your last power bill. **1,000 watt = one kilowatt (kW)
Compatibility: Ensure the ballast and lamp suit one another. For example, lamps of different type (e.g. MH or HPS) or different sizes (wattages) may require a specific ballast. Also, if using an electronic ballast, ensure the lamp is compatible, otherwise premature lamp failure and blackening may occur. Handling HID lamps: Lamps can explode if they are cold when lit or have fingerprints on glass. Always wrap in clean paper or towel before handling. To clean the lamp glass use window cleaner (or rubbing alcohol) and allow to dry thoroughly before use. Lamps should not be restarted immediately after being switched off (MH lamps should generally be left off for at least 20 minutes; HPS for at least three minutes).
Additional articles by Bob Taylor are available in our author archive at www.maximumyield.com.
suNGrEENhousEsoIL: AND GroWING NATurAL

suNLIGhT IN ThE GArDEN
by Roland Evans of Organic Bountea
I love the sun, even in August. It brings brightness to the spirit and a glow to the garden. A major reason we moved to Colorado was the sunlight streaming from crystal blue skies. It provides a healing antidote to the years I lived under cloud cover in England and Ireland. Even now, I complain when the sun hides for more than a day or so. The sun is the giver of life; all living beings depend directly or indirectly on its energy. It is also a blazing heavenly fire that can shrivel and burn. In England, I could not grow fully ripe tomatoes the sun was too weak. My first Colorado harvest of juicy red fruit was truly exciting but it only came after the shock of seeing the leaves of my transplant turn crispy brown one bright afternoon. The sun is indiscriminate in the energy it bestows; both too little and too much are equally problematic to our plants. As gardeners, we may not understand the complex physics of light, but we have to learn to work with the sun. Our task is to know what each plant needs and adjust the light and heat accordingly.
"the sun is the giver of life; all living beings depend directly or indirectly on its energy."
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Max Yield Ad2-March 08:Layout 1
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PLANTs AND LIGhT Photosynthesis Plants need light; their lives depend on photosynthesis. This magical process - creation through light - uses sun energy to transform water and air into the plants blood and bones. Green plants use chlorophyll in leaves and stems to gather up photons, packets of light energy; this energy is used to break the chemical bonds in carbon dioxide and water. Out of these molecules, plant cells assemble carbohydrates - both flowing sugary sap and stringy structural cellulose. To put it in a simple equation: carbon dioxide + Water + light energy + carbohydrate + oxygen + Water This is a complex process that plants seem to achieve effortlessly.Yet plants are quite particular about the kind of light they consume. Leaves are green because plants prefer light wavelengths towards the ends of the spectrum in the red and blue spectrum. Chlorophyll rejects and reflects the middle spectrum light that we see as green or yellow. Infrared rays The far ends of the light spectrum invisible to our eyes - infrared and ultraviolet - are equally important. Plants need these rays in moderation to grow and stay healthy. Long infrared waves stimulate heat energy in objects they touch.
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Sun and Soil: Natural Greenhouse Growing - Sunlight in the Garden

Every seed needs just the right amount of heat to germinate and grow. This is at a premium during winter months with the sun low in the sky. Plants are starved for heat energy and either die from frost damage or become dormant. The dog days of summer bring the opposite problem too much heat. Leaves droop, as precious water is lost; and roots shrivel in the hot ground. Managing infrared energy is one of the most important tasks of the gardener looking for a bountiful harvest. ultraviolet rays The damaging effects of ultraviolet rays can be quite sudden. We often do not notice sunburn until it turns our skin a bright red. A similar damage to leaves, called sunscald, can take a gardener by surprise. Here in the Rocky Mountains, ultraviolet light acts like a blowtorch on any plant that is too tender. A plant that is not used to UV rays quickly dehydrates as leaves cook and turn brown. On the other hand, ultraviolet rays are not all bad. Moderate doses of UV activate and strengthen plants immune systems and help seedlings and young foliage grow appropriately. Just as we tan to protect our skin from excess UV, plants develop blocking pigmentation and greater leaf thickness. Once my own plants are adapted to the mountain sunlight, they grow lots of strong glossy leaves.
Day Length Plants have evolved to respond differently not only to heat and light but to the length of day and night. Many seasonal flowers bloom because the ratio of day to night has reached a certain proportion. Long-day plants such as peas bloom as nights grow shorter. Short-day plants, such as certain varieties of onion, ripen late in the season as nights begin to lengthen. Many greens and root vegetables prefer cool soil and the indirect light of early spring or fall. Every plant has its preference. A dedicated gardener seeks to discover exactly how much or how little light and heat that plant desires. soil Energy We may be aware of the impact light and heat has on plants but we tend to forget its importance for the soil. Just like plants, soil life is light and heat sensitive. Below 50F, soil life is comparatively dormant except for certain fungi and hardy archaea. At these lower temperatures, nutrients such as calcium are relatively unavailable. As winter shifts to spring, infrared rays penetrate deeper into the ground, melting ice and waking up the microbial life. When soil warms and reaches 75F, soil life becomes extremely active and moves into high gear, cycling nutrients and reproducing at a very fast rate. Some bacteria can double in population every hour. Most seeds germinate at a temperature in which soil life is active; this is when organic food is most readily available. As soil temperatures continue to rise and water evaporates, soil life desiccates and dies. Above 100F plant roots and microbes effectively shut down. High levels of ultraviolet light sterilize the top layers of the soil, driving the worms deeper underground. Eventually, as humus gets depleted all that is left is desert. Soil needs constant protection, just as plants do. Optimum fertility requires that growers are mindful of the energy level of their soil.
"Moderate doses of uV rays activate and strengthen plants immune systems and help seedlings and young foliage grow appropriately."
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Sun and Soil: Natural Greenhouse Growing - Sunlight in the Garden

Modulating Light and heat If plants are made of light energy, then gardeners are also cultivators of light. We work with the different energies of the seasons, capturing and storing heat when it is scarce and dissipating it when it is too prevalent. Light flows from the sun like water from a faucet. Sometimes we need to capture every drop other times we have to divert the flow before it floods. Greenhouse Covers I think of my greenhouses as a means to moderate light and heat. The transparent covers trap photons to create a beneficial microclimate of light and energy. I use a particular polyethylene film (IRAD) that allows infrared wavelengths through but then reflects some back towards the plants and soil. There are many different kinds of greenhouse coverings, many of which have special light and heat properties. Most of them block UV wavelengths so there is far less danger of sunscald or sterilized soil. Thermal Mass In the winter, the thermal mass of soil and water barrels in the greenhouses gather energy during the day and release it slowly during the night as heat when it is most needed. I am in the
process of incorporating a wall made of bottles and concrete into one of the greenhouses to provide more energy storage. This winter that greenhouse will be full of greens, roots and salad growing without extra heat. The thermal mass in my greenhouses also regulates heat during the summer. With plenty of leafy mulch the soil and plant roots stay at a comfortable temperature. shade When it gets very hot, I throw a 40 per cent shade cloth over the whole of the greenhouse, effectively reducing the temperature inside by 10F. Shade is the easiest way to keep light and heat under control. Knitted shade cloth draped over a frame provides protection from extreme overheating. Floating row covers can also serve - but take care these do not touch or surround the plants as this will cause overheating. Convection Every greenhouse needs air flow. This is essential during summer so that heat can be dissipated through convection. Hot air rises, so natural convection flows from the ground towards the peak of the greenhouse. I have high openings at each end and keep the doors open or occasionally roll up the sides to let air move naturally. Plants really appreciate it when you give them the right environment. In early spring, seedlings need the extra light of my propagator to grow green and strong. In the summer, if the greenhouse has been closed too long, the vegetables love some added airflow and a refreshing spritz of cool water. They quickly perk up and thank me for giving them just what they need. Plants do their best to tell us what light and heat they need; it is our job to look, listen and learn. MY
Gain access to past Sun and Soil columns at www.maximumyield.com under article archive.
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composting 101: an overvieW

Garbage dumps smell. So do landfills. This is probably the case because these places are full of the rotting waste and detritus of thousands of people. If youre looking for motivation to compost, you might try
by Jared Garrett
taking a walk around one of these blights taking over the landscape. It might also help to know that when most families start composting, the volume of garbage that they produce is reduced by about 30 per cent.
If youre just hoping to reduce your impact on the environment, composting is a great way to go. If youre also looking for a cost-effective, relatively easy and ultimately educational way to get great fertilizer for your plants, composting is the answer. Whether you live in a condo with no yard, a town home with less than 100 square feet of lawn space, a house with a nice sized backyard or anything in between, you can compost. In other words, no matter what your living situation, you can compost. When plants grow, they take in carbon dioxide from the air, and nutrients and water from the earth. Then, when they die, they naturally decompose and return those elements and materials back to the earth. So the truth is that when we compost, we are simply taking part in a natural process that has been going on for millions of years. Thus, in order for us to be able to compost and take advantage of the multitudinous benefits of doing so, we just need to imitate nature. There are plenty of methods and approaches to composting, but they can basically be summed up into two categories: closed container and piles. Closed Container Modern closed containers look essentially like barrels propped on their sides on a stand. These barrels have an opening through which organic materials, such as vegetable and garden leavings, are placed into the container. With that opening sealed closed, the barrel is rotated on its axis, combining old materials with the newer materials. These containers also have air vents.
"closed compo sting they obey the th containers work well becaus e ree principles of good compost ing: stirring, air an d shade."
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Composting 101: An Overview
Closed containers work well because they obey the three principles of good composting: stirring, air and shade. When you rotate the barrel, you stir the materials, thus eliminating noxious fumes that might build up under layers of inert plant material. Air is necessary because it helps the plant material break down. Shade keeps things from drying out, which is necessary because moisture also enables the process of decomposition. Barrel composters come in a variety of sizes. The urban composter who specializes in indoor or container
gardening can actually get a composter that they can put on their kitchen counter. Usually coming in an attractive shade of green, these small composters, if used correctly, will keep even the most sensitive of noses happy. You can also find container composters that vary in size from four feet to six feet tall. Some of these composters are designed to create a wonderful organic tea that is full of nutrients. This type of composter works in much the same way as other container composters, but they have an exit tray for the fluids that are produced through the process of decomposition to seep out. Some of these composters can hold up to four gallons of nutrient-filled liquid. Piles If youve got some space in your yard, making a compost pile can be the easiest and most straightforward way to get your compost going. To make a compost pile, you need to find a relatively shady area in your yard. If you can find a shady spot
Figure 1: A three tiered composting system.
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that also gets hit by your regular lawn watering, you will be in business. With your compost spot help chosen, all you need to do "Worms are your friends; they nic material now is collect your grass break down the orga your garden." and leaves, as well as your into delicious dirt for organic kitchen waste and then deposit all of this on your spot. You can even add egg shells and bread leavings to this pile. Wait two weeks before doing anything, making sure you are consistent with adding organic materials to the pile. Then keep it moist. After two weeks, use a pitchfork to turn the pile over.Your objective here is two-fold: get air into the pile and move the top layers to the middle of the pile. You should, after these first two weeks, have some nicely decomposing organic material that is black and moist-looking. If you have kept your compost pile wet, you should also see quite a few healthy worms in your pile as you turn it over. Worms are your friends; they help break down the organic material into delicious dirt for your garden. Your compost pile doesnt need to cover much ground, and this can be helped if you put a containing frame around it. This can be done using one by six inch boards as retaining walls. Of course, if you really want to make a fancy composter, and you have plenty of space, you can use the increasingly
popular three-tiered system. This system utilizes three different sections, numbered one, two and three. Number one is where you place your fresh organic waste. If you keep it wet, in two to three weeks you can turn the material in number one over into number two. A few weeks later you can move the fully decomposed material into number three, where it waits for you to put it to use. See Figure 1 to get an idea for what this system looks like. You might be intrigued by the threetiered system, and this is fine. But all you really need to remember if you want to start composting is that anyone can do it. Whether you use a low-cost container
composter in your home, a large barrel in your backyard or a compost pile, you will be able to reap the myriad benefits of MY making your own compost.
You will find a wide assortment of composting articles on www.maximumyield.com under article archive.
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by Luis Bartolo
Soil - Who
Doesn't
who doesnt love it? Its the basic element of mother earth, the holy grail of every organic garden and even if you are not an organic cultivator you must admit, we need it every day. Soil, once defined by J.S. Joffe in 1949, is a natural body consisting of layers (horizons) of mineral constituents of variable thicknesses. Each layer differs from the parent materials in their morphological, physical, chemical and mineralogical characteristics. So, what type of good, rich organic soil does one need? To answer this question we should first understand how a plant works. Lets start with the parts of the plant: leaves, flowers, stems and roots. Leaves are the plants kitchens; food making goes on in the leaves, during the on-going process of photosynthesis (where the energy from sun or artificial lighting is transformed into energy the plant can use). The flowers are the plants reproductive organs, helping the plant generate baby plants (or blossoms). The stems are the support structures of the plant. Stems hold up the plant, but also conduct food and water throughout. Last but not least, the roots are an integral part of the plants body. Root holds the plant in the ground. As well, they provide a food storage area and nutrient absorption for the plant. Now lets add a little bit of environment: plants are using sun for energy during photosynthesis; they are using special cells filled with green pigment called chlorophyll to convert dioxide and water into a sugar called glucose; and they are using the glucose (a form of carbohydrate) for energy. So knowing what different types of plants need is to know what type of rich organic soil you should use. So now you want to understand soil, correct? Well, I cant offer you a university degree in soil science but I can explain a few soil factors in basic terms.
Love it?
Soil -
116
"Each layer of soil differs from the parent materials in their morphological, physical, chemical and mineralogical characteristics." Bulk density: The weight of a given volume of soil, which includes the pore spaces. It can be easily measured by gently pressing a small cylinder into the soil, removing the core and weighing after drying to remove the water contained in the pore space. An average value would be 1.3 g per cm3. Water-holding capacity: The water-holding capacity of soil is a very important agronomic characteristic. Soils that hold generous amounts of water are less subject to leaching losses of nutrients or soil applied pesticides. Absorbency: The ability of soil to absorb and hold water and other liquids. Some materials such a peat are quite water repellent and should be moistened before planting and allowed to dry out completely. Friability: This has to do with the texture of the soil. It must be easy for the roots to move through the soil. One way to measure this is by sticking your finger into the soil. If this can be done easily, the roots can grow through the soil. Air filled pore space: 10 to 15 per cent of your soil mix should be air. These pore spaces are the ones through which water drains and air enters the root zone. Materials like perlite and shredded bark are chunky enough to create air space, letting the roots have oxygen, even when the soil is wet. That gives us an insight into the composition of soil. However, to take some soil from the earth and put it in a pot indoors or in a greenhouse will not work as the contents are just a small part of the greater whole. Nutrient can be made available to plant roots in natural soil from many meters away for instance. Confined in a pot this is not possible. Therefore, soil mixtures or composts were developed to contain the same structure and to emulate the natural environment as closely as possible. If you've shopped around for soil mixes, you've probably noticed several ingredients that are listed in their contents. We summoned up the most common ingredients: Sphagnum/Peat: Peat is organic soil that consists of rotted plants, organic minerals, water and air. It differs from muck (yes, muck is a technical term used by soil scientists) because in muck the organic material is decomposed beyond recognition. Sphagnum
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Soil - Who Doesn`t Love It?

"Materials like perlite and shredded bark are chunky enough to create air space, letting the roots have oxygen, even when the soil is wet." Vermiculite: Vermiculite is a silica rock, kind of like mica, that expands into little hollow kernels when heated quickly at a very high temperature. It's usually added to potting mixes because it's light, it absorbs several times its weight in water and it aids porosity. Perlite: Perlite is a volcanic ore that, when heated, pops open like popcorn. Perlite doesn't absorb water (it holds it on its surface) so it hurts your mix's total water retention. What it does do, however, is make more air-filled pores, so you can be sure roots are getting enough oxygen.
comes from bogs around the world nowadays and is often mined from environmentally renewable sources, and it's usually over 90 per cent organic. It is also extremely aerated. It's a bit lightweight, so usually bark or sand is added to avoid the "topple factor," the technical term for when your plant tips over. When it's wet, sphagnum absorbs water, but when it dries out, it can actually repel water, which is the kiss of death. Peat must always be mixed with wetting agents, and is usually mixed with some of the items listed below. Composted Bark: Put bark in a big pile and allow it to rot for four months. When it reaches 150F in the middle on the pile, it's done and you've got yourself some composted bark. Composted bark is actually much heavier than peat. If composted correctly, bark can resist disease. On the other hand, new bark and fine particles can cause problems. It helps to have properly sized chunks of bark, which will help to aid in porosity.
Coir: Coir is a waste product of the coconut processing industry. It is a shredded form of the outside of the coconut shell. It's often used as a substitute for peat in potting mixes for plants that need moist soil, because of its superior water holding ability. Coir is usually sold in a compressed brick form that expands with water. One drawback - it can be high in salts because of the processing methods used to make it. So it should be soaked in water and washed before being added to the mix. Knowing these things will ultimately make you a more educated consumer when deciding what soil mix is right for you and more important your plants. After all, knowledge is power. Also remember your soil mixtures, with care, can be infinitely reused. By removing the top surface of used soil and removing the roots, fresh ingredients can be added to replenish the soil health and away you go again. MY Isnt soil great! Till next time.
To review of all Luis Bartolo's articles visit www.maximumyield.com
118
DO YOU
know?
1 Metal Halide (MH), a common variety of HID lamps,

produces light predominantly blue in color. This is ideal for strong vegetative growth and a shorter, more dense plant.
Although the process of photosynthesis is achieved quite effortlessly, plants are quite particular about the kind of light they consume, preferring wavelengths towards the red and blue spectrum.
2 Contrary to popular belief, phosphorous is not the
most important element needed in the bloom phase. This idea sprang from field crop research, which crossed over into nutrient formulations intended for modern, high producing indoor crops.
La Villette, a relatively unheard of indoor plantation in Paris, France features impressive state-of-the-art ventilation and environmental controllers including automated humidification devices, which help maintain specific climatic qualities.
3 When cloning, it is a good idea to own a heated
propagator, a propagation light and a grow tent, if you are doing many clones.
8 9
Sphagnum, a common ingredient found in soil mixes, is a great absorber of water. However, when it dries out, it can actually repel water.
weight of a of 4 Thepore spaces,given volumethe soil, which includes the is known as bulk density. It can be easily measured by gently pressing a small cylinder into the soil, removing the core and weighing after drying.
Moderate doses of ultraviolet rays can activate and strengthen plants immune systems and help seedlings and young foliage grow appropriately.
5 Saffron, traditionally grown outdoors in warm and
15 years corresponding foliar 10 It tookdesigned to develop afor use with the sound spray specifically frequencies known as Sonic Bloom, a process that has shown to increase growth rates in plants with extraordinary results.
dry climates like Spain, India and Iran, has many imitations and cheap substitutes on the culinary market. These usually consist of counterfeit strands or color substitutes of cheaper spices like turmeric.
119
YOU TELL US
Maximum Yield talks with Jonathan Valdman, manager/owner of Forever Flowering Greenhouses, LLC about the documentary that changed his world and what makes their greenhouses so eco-friendly.
Jonathan Valdman, Owner of Forever Flowering Greenhouses
MY: What makes your greenhouses so eco-friendly? Jonathan: We have tried to incorporate as many conservational techniques into the greenhouse as possible. Our retractable houses have rain gutters that come standard so that the rainwater can be collected, stored and used to water your crop. I currently have 25,000 gallons of water storage on my 3000 square foot greenhouse. Experience has shown that the flexibility and control that our greenhouses operate with allows for more optimal growing conditions and, therefore, reduces the amount of water needed for irrigation. The retractable houses have the ability to operate huge amounts of square footage with low power consumption due to the effects of passive cooling created by the walls and roof, which retract, reducing electricity needed to power exhaust fans. Though these greenhouses are set up to accommodate the use of supplemental lighting, the focus is on reducing the amount of power that is needed to pull you through to harvest.The whole idea is to try and achieve the control of an indoor growing environment but using the free energy of the sun instead of high consuming grow lights. Lumen meters are included on all the greenhouses so as to maintain ultimate light levels for those wanting to supplement lighting during low light situations, passing clouds or a rainy day.You also have the ability to extend your growing day by adding a few hours of light on either end of the day, minimizing the amount of artificial light needed to achieve desired light schedules.When extending light hours, the blackout curtains allow the light to be contained within the greenhouse.
MY: What was your motivation behind the creation of Forever Flowering Greenhouses (FFG)? Jonathan: After coming out of Al Gores An Inconvenient Truth I asked myself what my part was in pollution and what I could do to be part of the solution. The agricultural community that surrounded me was based on organic living we ate organic food, drove with alternative fuels, wore sustainable, nature based clothing and overall tried to incorporate conscious consumerism into our lives. I saw one major place that the loop was not being completed. Everyone had tens of thousands of watts worth of HID lights providing sunlight for their indoor gardens. I asked myself, How can these people continue to harvest more than the one crop a year, while breaking their addiction to HID lighting? And so Forever Flowering Greenhouses (FFG) was born, giving people the ability to use the free power of the sun while continuously harvesting their indoor crops. Minimum effort. Maximum results. I wanted to create a system that allowed farmers to do more with their lives and still have superior results with their growing endeavors while lessening their environmental footprint.
MY: What exactly is light-dep? MY: What were some of the struggles in the beginning in order to create an ideal growing environment? Jonathan: The primary struggle was with the understanding of what would trigger photoperiod (flowering) for a plant. The agricultural industry standard of a blackout system allows there to be enough light to read a newspaper under. Some plants are more sensitive than others when it comes to blacking out so I basically had to create a new standard of this technology. There is a large difference between what a plant sees and what can be seen with the human eye. As long as the plant is getting zero lumens of light you can rest at ease as far as light deprivation goes. Each farm is different and there will always be fine tuning within what ever system you use. I played around with different fabrics that breathe so as to allow hot air and humidity to escape via the blackout roof. This allows the temperature/humidity to remain low when the blackout curtains are closed. Layering these fabrics still allows for this heat/humidity exchange to occur and yet provides an optimal light deprivation environment. MY: Describe to me fully automated seasonal enhancers. Jonathan: Our systems afford the farmer the ability to enhance the desired season anytime of the year. Need less light? Need more light? Shade systems can be implemented as well as heat. Whatever you want to achieve you can do so simply by setting your controller system appropriately. The greenhouse takes on a life of its own at that point and you can go on with yours. MY: What is the difference between a greenhouse set-up for a commercial grower versus a hobbyist grower? Jonathan: Our hobbyist line comes in two sizes. The mini is 10 by 10 and the maha is 20 by 20. They have rigid greenhouse poly carbonate, exhaust fans and intake louvers. The biggest difference is in the walls and the roof as they are stationary. The retractable series has rollup sidewalls and a retractable roof. These allow for passive cooling and creating an optimal growing condition for the plants using the least amount of power. We have sold greenhouses to people on solar and they have had very successful experiences. The hobbyist line takes more power than a retractable unit due to its exhaust fans but still can be plugged into a 20 to 30 amp 110 volt wall socket. All of our greenhouses come with an automated blackout system, light/fan rails that hang under the blackout for supplemental lighting and air circulation, and all of superior quality. Jonathan: Light-dep or deprivation is also known as blacking out and inducing photoperiod. To light-dep a plant is to shorten the duration of its light cycle, so as to encourage the plant to flower in a time of year that wouldnt naturally trigger flowering. For instance, by reducing the summer sun to only 12 hours of light, it would trigger the plant to recognize that the end of its life cycle is coming and therefore begin the flowering/seed production phase of its life. The same idea is used with indoor agriculture but artificial light is turned on and off as opposed to the sun being blocked out. Obviously this method of farming is only beneficial for plants whose flowering cycle is determined by the amount of hours of light it gets and the number of hours it gets to rest and process its food. This technique affords the farmer several benefits: In environments that have a short growing season due to early/late frosts, light deprivation encourages an outdoor crop to start flowering earlier than full season plants, allowing for an earlier harvest, and eliminating the detrimental effects of cold and frost to the crop. These days growing has a lot to do not only with quality and variety but the time of the season in which you can market your products. Nothing like having a bumper crop of tomatoes at the same time every other farmer just harvested their tomatoes. Instead, by using the control that light deprivation offers to the farmer you can have a high quality crop available when everyone else is looking at their flower sites just starting to develop and/or your second crop harvested when all the long season growers are just starting to get prepared for the harvest season. The idea is that although your lighting is now free from the sun you are still trying to create the ideal indoor growing environment. This affords the grower the best of both worlds the efficiency and quantity of outdoor growing and the control, consistency and quality of indoor growing. Irregardless of the size or level of automation, in todays market with everybody and their grandmother learning of the self sustaining and viable techniques of farming, it is most important for the educated and experienced farmer to look into the future of timing, control, quality and the ability to expand both their crop and their market. I feel that light deprivation, and the automation which creates a more abundant, less labor intensive growing situation is the wave of the future. Steer towards the light but come check out whats happening on the dark side. Minimum effort. Maximum results.
MY
Visit www.maximumyield.com to access all of our You Tell Us columns featuring industry leaders from around the globe.
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Continued from page 38
The Quantum T-5 Bad Boy from Nickel City Wholesale

Two units will cover a four by eight foot tray with more lumens than a 1000 watt HID light. This unit will give up to 100 per cent more lumens at six inches and one foot away from the plants. Several new improvements found on these fixtures will increase the lumen output even more, driving the lamps 28.6 per cent harder. We found that other T-5 units produced nice fruit, but were half the size. The color and light quality with the Bad Boy is much closer to regular daylight resulting in tighter internodal spacing, thicker stem-wall, heartier foliage and more production. It enhances the characteristics of each specific plant. Super high output, hyper-driven lamps and fixtures define optimum production from start to finish. These units are easy to carry and deliver, and take only minutes to assemble. The Quantum T-5 Bad Boy - where size, output, performance and production meet. Eliminate the heat with the Bad Boy. For more information please visit an indoor gardening retailer near you.
CubeCap Canadas DripCap

Not yet for commercial sale but already admired internationally is a new invention from CubeCap Canada. The new DripCap is designed to replace traditional drip-pegs, combining irrigation with the advantages of the CubeCap, which is mainly applied in ebb and flood systems. DripCap is manufactured for ease of application and removal; it wraps around the plant securely and can be locked into place at any stage of plant growth. The patented design allows water droplets to completely saturate the media without having to relocate the device, as is common with standard drip-pegs. Further benefits from the use of DripCap relate to the reflection of light, which helps creates a desirable micro-climate for new roots to form. The slower evaporation rate also allows for savings in the amount of water and nutrients required by the plants for optimum growth. DripCap almost completely eliminates persistent algae and fungus gnat problems present in grow facilities. The new DripCap will be unveiled at all major exhibitions, starting September 2009. Ask your local hydroponics retailer to carry the new DripCap.
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SucraShield Ends Insect Pest Problems the Sweet Way

Give plant-killing insect pests the sweet treat they deserve with SucraShield! This OMRI-Listed insecticide uses a base of natural sugar esters to destroy problem bugs like mites, aphids, caterpillars, thrips, leafhoppers, whiteflies and more, eliminating their eggs as well. Within minutes of applying SucraShield, youll begin seeing results from this uniquely-acting pest control agent. Best of all, its safe for bees and other beneficial insects! Now available at indoor gardening retailers everywhere.
Megawatt Introduces Green Gold HO T5s

Green Gold HO T5s are 6400 kelvin HO lamps that are lightweight and easy to install. They are UL listed, high output ballasts. Green Gold HO T5s are ideal for the gardening enthusiast providing 6400 kelvins of full spectrum lighting. Green Gold HO T5s contain the perfect lighting spectrum to start your seedlings; initiate faster rooting time on cuttings; assist in supplying long-term lighting for plants; and add valuable supplementary lighting in flowering plants. The fixture and bulb are now available in four foot lengths. The heavy duty cord allows you to interconnect eight T5s in a parallel circuit. The T5 has been fit with a bulb cover that allows you to get even closer to the plant without burning it and it is easily removable. 54 watts equals 5,000 lumens. Green Gold HO T5s are now available at indoor gardening retail stores.
Just Right Xtra All Organic Potting Mix

Nickel City Wholesale Garden Supply is proud to announce the release of Just Right Xtra All Organic Potting Mix. Just Right mix is a rich blend of OMRI listed organic materials, microbes and fungi. Just Right Xtra Potting Mix contains: GH Cocotek Coconut Coir, which creates a more diverse and less compact growing medium. GH Ancient Forest Humus - the ultimate natural compost. Large non-toxic, sterile and odorless perlite. Premium red earthworm castings. Miadenwell Diatomite Silica Stone, which increases plants resistance to disease. GH Rare Earth, derived from ancient seabed deposits of prophylactic clay. GH SubCulture M, a mycorrhizae root inoculant that contains a wide diversity of endo and ecto mycorrhizal fungi. GH SubCulture B, which helps increase the vitality and yield in all plants. Natural sulfate of potash. Bone Char containing more than 16 per cent available phosphate and 32 per cent total phosphate. We know you will enjoy your Bag of Biology and all the complex microscopic pores which provide the perfect condominium living environment for its countless microbial communities. Visit your local retailer for more information.
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PRODUCT
spotlight
Roots Organics Big Worm
Humboldt Nutrients Verde

Verde is a powerful and effective growth additive formulated to bring out the best characteristics in all your favorite plants. This 16-1-2 formula contains nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, manganese, iron and other trace elements, which ensure that rapid growth equals quality growth. Competing 16-0-0 products jumpstart growth without providing the nutrition essential for building strong stalks and healthy leaves. The vibrant greens and lush vegetation produced with this growth catalyst will astound any gardener and protect your crop from low yields and inferior fruits and flowers. Try Verde today and see what Humboldt Nutrients can do for your garden. Verde is now available at your local hydroponics retail store.
Roots Organics Big Worm is a distinctive natural soil amendment. Our worms are carefully tended and fed an unparalleled blend of organic compost, rock dust and kelp for exceptional quality castings. In addition to containing nitrogen, our castings also contain small amounts of phosphorus and potassium with naturally occurring micronutrients, minerals and beneficial bacteria. Worm castings contain auxins and cytokinins, which are growth hormones that promote bigger and more fibrous plant roots. No fillers, no chemicals and no tricks - just pure worm castings. (one cubic foot size). See what the best worm castings in the world can do for your garden. Big Worm is now available at your local indoor gardening retail store.
New Indoor Products from 3D Organics Hit the Market

3D Organic Solutions, LLC is now offering three new products formulated for outstanding indoor or hydroponic results! These products are organic based and can be used outdoors as well. OG Grow 4-0-1 is a one part indoor/ hydroponic grow formula that contains nitrogen, potassium, calcium, magnesium, manganese, zinc, copper, iron, boron, humic and fulvic acids, yucca, quillaja, sugars and more. OG Bloom .5-4-3 part A is the first in a two part indoor/hydroponic bloom formula that contains nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, manganese, zinc, copper, iron, boron, humic and fulvic acids, yucca, quillaja, sugars and more. OG Bloom 2-0-1 part B is the second in a two part indoor/hydroponic bloom formula that contains nitrogen, potassium, calcium, silicates, b-vitamins and more. Use 3D Indoor Products with 3D Powder Products for greater performance! For more information on these products, visit an indoor gardening retail store near you.
T5 Designer Light System

Hydrofarm's new Designer T5 System delivers performance, flexibility and high lumen output in any growing environment. These daisy-chainable systems allow you to choose multiple hanging configurations to meet your garden's design. They combine German specular aluminium with energy-efficient/high-output T5 bulbs and put out double the light energy of normal fluorescent systems. available in two and four foot units (two foot: two, four or eight bulbs), (four foot: four, six or eight bulbs) German made specular aluminium may be daisy-chained together powder coated, textured steel housing five year warranty low profile hangs three ways - overhead, vertical or horizontal 10 grounded power cord includes appropriate number of fluorescent 6400K, T5 tubes The T5 Designer Light System is now available at an authorized retailer near you.
Earth Juice Verde Fire Grow and Bloom

Earth Juice Verde Fire Grow and Bloom are natural solution grade dry-powder formulas that when mixed with water makes an excellent fertilizer for a variety of indoor and outdoor plants. They may also be used in dry form as a broadcast fertilizer or mixed directly into the media. For use with planting mixes, coco-coir and native soils. Verde Fire Grow is recommended for leafy plants and the vegetative stage of flowering and fruiting plants. Use Verde Fire Bloom to aid in the development of flowers, vegetables and fruit. Apply at the first sign of budding and through flowering and fruiting. Works with indoor/outdoor plants, hand-feeding, drip systems and sprayers. Growers are encouraged to visit their local hydroponics retailer to learn more.
Megawatt Introduces Green Gold CFLs

Green Gold CFLs are effective, energy-saving, reliable, low heat generating horticultural grow lamps, providing excellent results and lower operating costs for all indoor growers. There is no wasted light, unlike HID and HPS lamps where much of the light cannot be used by the plant. Green Gold CFLs have high PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation) light output and are used successfully for all propagation, vegetative and flowering stages. Green Gold CFLs can be positioned directly above plants, (approximately one to 1.5 inches), and will not burn your plants. There is no wasted light, which occurs when HID lamps are positioned high above plants. rated for 6,000 hours of life 11,000 lumen capability with 200 watts fits standard mogul base sockets ideal for use with 24 inch gull wing fixtures 6,400 kelvin for propagation and vegetative growing Green Gold CFLs are now available at indoor gardening stores everywhere.
PRODUCT
spotlight
XXXTreme Uptake Now Available from Green Planet Wholesale

XXXTreme Uptake is the premiere humic acid on the market. It is designed to be used as a soil conditioner in conjunction with your regular feeding program. For optimum results, use each time you water or fertilize at the recommended application rates. a must for dirt growers speeds up plant growth extremely concentrated with 14 per cent humic acid XXXTreme is available in one quart, one gallon, 2.2 gallons and five gallons. For more information on XXXTreme Uptake visit an indoor gardening retailer near you.
Introducing Triple 888 Uptake from Green Planet Wholesale

Triple 888 Uptake is the highest quality fulvic acid on the market and is compatible with any nutrient. Adding Triple 888 Uptake to any foliar spray or nutrient mixture will improve the speed and penetration into the plant. seven per cent fulvic acid highest concentration of fulvic acid on the market compared to competitors increases nutrient uptake helps increase speed of growth and essential oil production Triple 888 Uptake is available in one quart, one gallon, 2.2 gallons and five gallons. For more information on Triple 888 visit your local indoor gardening retailer.
Introducing Ocean Magic from Green Planet Wholesale

Ocean Magic is an organic extract from Atlantic sea kelp, harvested from the unpolluted waters of the northern Atlantic Ocean. Ocean Magic is cold processed to retain all of the vital minerals and nutrients. Ocean Magic contains a wealth of 100 per cent organic nutrients, amino acids, bio stimulants and enzymes. Ocean Magic can be used as a foliar spray, soil drench and is suitable for hydroponic systems. Available in 8.5 ounces, 17 ounces, one quart and one gallon jugs. For more information on Ocean Magic visit your local hydroponics store.
DNF Veg Fortifier

DNF Veg Fortifier 12-40-12 is designed specifically to stimulate plant growth. It contains water soluble organic compounds, which ensure robust and vigorous root growth. When used in combination with other DNF products during the grow stage after a successful transplant, DNF Veg Fortifier will create lush green foliage, bigger brighter leaves and increase branches and flower sites. Having the maximum yield starts with properly vegging plants to produce, set and hold massive flowers. DNF Veg fortifier is everything your plant needs to meet its maximum potential. For more information on DNF Veg Fortifier visit your local indoor gardening store.
Megawatt Introduces the Typhoon Inline Fan

Typhoon Fans are high performance duct fans, equal to the best inline duct blowers on the market today. They come in sizes from four to 12 inches. The highest power motors combined with an aerodynamically designed shape make Typhoon Inline Fans the leader in their category. These high performance inline blowers feature superior steel construction with powder coated white paint. They have a convenient tape flange that allows you to place the ducting on the blower and tape it in place easily! Balanced motors with permanently lubricated ball bearings ensure vibration-free operation. Typhoon Inline Fans offer high quality at a low price. The fans are engineered for long life, made with the highest quality components and include an attached power cord. Engineered for vibrationfree operation (the sound of silence). Mounting bracket included. The bottom line: Typhoon Inline Fans are all about performance, reliability and quality, all wrapped up in one package to ensure peace of mind for years. For more information on the Typhoon Inline Fan, visit your local indoor gardening retailer.
Hozelock KillaSpray
Hozelocks popular KillaSpray pressure sprayers make foliar applications (and anything else that requires spraying) simple! Available in 1.8 and 2.6 gallon sizes, both offer gardeners a well-made, see-through plastic reservoir with a wide opening for ease in refilling, a comfortable handle for timeintensive jobs and an adjustable nozzle attached to a long spray lance that conveniently clips to the side of the unit. Look for the Hozelock KillaSpray at your local indoor gardening store.
Earth Juice Hi-Brix Molasses for Plants

This rare and highly prized molasses is a natural source of carbohydrates (sugars) and plant nutrients that has been specially tailored into a liquid formulation for indoor and outdoor plants in soil and hydroponics. It can be used in conjunction with a variety of fertilizers and highly recommended for the brewing of plant teas. Growers are encouraged to visit their local indoor gardening store to learn more.
MY
You can find all of our products online at www.maximumyield.com. Each month your favorite new product profiles will be featured on our website. Get the latest information on what will make your garden grow. Do you want to be included in the product spotlight? Contact the editor at 1-250-279-2677 or email editor@maximumyield.com
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AVANT-GARDENING
Pollination The Basics for Indoor Vegetable Gardeners

by Clair Schwan Pollination of vegetable plants can be a problem for indoor gardeners because, well, your plants are indoors and not outside where natural pollination can take place. Its a common concern for beginners with a greenhouse. Lets take a general look at what pollination is and how we might handle such a task with our indoor gardens. What is Pollination? Pollination is part of the reproductive cycle of plants. It involves transferring pollen from male parts of flowers to female parts of flowers to fertilize the plant. Fertilization is essential so the plant can produce seed. Some plants are self-fertile so they dont need pollen from another plant. Their blossoms can fertilize themselves (within the same flower or from a flower on the same plant). Other plants require cross-pollination where pollen from another similar plant is used to fertilize the flower. Vegetables like carrots, beets and broccoli are productive in the absence of pollination, because their seed is produced after it provides its food source to us.Vegetables that bear fruit, like tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and squash, require pollination for the fruit to set, so its essential that pollination take place. How are Plants Pollinated? There are four basic ways that pollination takes place: animal contact, wind, self-pollination and human assisted pollination. Here are some examples of each type of pollinator at work. The overwhelming majority of plant pollination is performed by animals as they go about searching for food. Animal
pollinators include birds, flies, moths, butterflies, and most importantly, bees. The best pollinators out there are the humble and hard working bumble bee and honey bee. While these animals search for sweet nectar, they help pollinate your vegetable garden. In our greenhouses, bumble bees can become completely covered in pollen while visiting squash blossoms. Wind is another good pollinator. Corn is probably the best example to illustrate how wind pollination works. Pollen is blown by the wind from the tassels on top of the corn plant to the corn silk that hangs out of the end of each ear of corn. Thats why corn is best planted in multiple adjacent rows instead of single rows. Many types of plants are self-pollinating. Some plants pollinate themselves by having the male portion of the blossom grow into contact with the female portion. This can happen even when the blossom is closed. When growing plants indoors, the chance of pollination by animals and wind is reduced, so thats where we humans have to get involved to make certain our plants are pollinated. Sometimes it requires a small paint brush, and sometimes we just need to shake the plant a bit or create air circulation to promote pollination. Pollinating Indoor Vegetables There are several methods for making certain your indoor vegetables are well pollinated. The easiest approach to indoor pollination is to provide an opening for insects to enter. Bees will naturally find their way
into your greenhouse or other indoor growing area if you give them an opportunity. An open vent or an open door is all theyll need if theyre plentiful outdoors. Tomatoes are mostly self-fertile, yet some have blossoms that dont open, so they cant be pollinated by bees or other insects, and indoors the wind cant get to them. To ensure adequate pollination, just shake the plant lightly every few days after blossoms appear. This will help dislodge pollen inside the blossoms for fertilization that will help set fruit. Squash plants have both male and female flowers. The male flowers are the first to appear and each lasts only a couple of days. A week or so later youll see the female blossoms appear. They have a tiny fruit on the bottom of the blossom. As soon as the blossom opens, use a small water color paint brush and act as the pollinator in the absence of bees. Gently swirl it inside of a male flower to pick up pollen, and then brush it lightly inside the center of the female blossoms. An Alternative to Pollination Wouldnt it be great if you didnt have to be concerned about pollinating your indoor vegetables? Well, you dont have to if you grow cucumbers especially bred for use in a greenhouse. Theyre known as European greenhouse varieties. They produce nearly all female blossoms, require no pollination, and produce an abundance of seedless cucumbers. So, there you have it, the basics of pollination for fruit set and seed development. Even indoors nature can accomplish this task, but sometimes it needs a little help. To be on the safe side, I always help along my vegetable plants until I see that an abundance of bees have found their way into the greenhouse to pollinate the plants. MY
About the Author: Clair Schwan is an experienced vegetable gardener and builder of homemade greenhouses. He lives with his sweetheart Ellen and grows over 100 varieties of vegetables in three homemade greenhouses. With a little help from the sun, row covers and solar collection systems, he enjoys a year-round harvest of fresh vegetables grown with organic methods. For detailed discussion and pictures of his greenhouses and self-sufficiency exploits, visit www.frugal-living-freedom.com. See his advice and counsel on a range of vegetable gardening and greenhouse gardening topics at http://www.vegetable-gardening-and-greenhouses.com
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ALABAMA
Alabama Organics 3348 Bethel Road, Valley Head, AL 35989 256-635-0802
ALASKA
Browns Electrical Supply 365 Industrial Way, Anchorage, AK 99501 907-272-2259 Far North Garden Supply 300 Centaur Street, Wasilla, AK 99654 907-376-7586 Far North Garden Supply 2834 Boniface Parkway Anchorage, AK 99504 907-333-3141 Holmtown Nursery Inc. 1301 - 30th Avenue, Fairbanks, AK 99701 907-451-8733
ARIZONA
ACI Hydroponics 1325 South Park Lane, Tempe, AZ 85282 800-633-2137 Homegrown Hydroponics 601 East Broadway Road, Tempe, AZ 85282 480-377-9096 Homegrown Hydroponics 1702 East Prince Road, Tucson, AZ 85719 520-323-1212 Natural Pools & Gardens 2143 North Country Suite C, Tucson, AZ 85716 520-323-2627 Sea of Green Hydroponics 815 W. University Drive, Suite 110, Tempe, AZ 85281 800-266-4136 Sea of Green West 2340 W. Bell Road, Suite 116, Phoenix, AZ 85023 602-504-8842 Sea of Green Hydroponics 402 North 4th Avenue, Tucson, AZ 85705 520-622-6344
ARKANSAS
Fermentables 3915 Crutcher Street, N. Little Rock, AR 72118 501-758-6261 Mickeys Mercantile 1303 Highway 65 South, Clinton, AR 72031 501-412-0214 Old Soul Organics and More 1771 Crossover Road, Fayetteville, AR 72701 479-444-6955
CALIFORNIA
101 Hydroponics 2550 Vineyard Avenue, #200 Oxnard, CA 93030 805-988-6537 A+ Plant Technologies 1604 Babcock Street, Costa Mesa, CA 95521 949-642-7776
A Fertile World (Eureka) 65 th Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-444-0200 A Fertile World (Fortuna) 610 7th Street Fortuna, CA 95540 707-725-0700 Advanced Garden Supply 2660 Lake Tahoe Boulevard, Building C, Unit 9, S. Lake Tahoe, CA 96150 530-541-4769 Advanced Garden Supply 3113 Alhambra Drive, Unit F, Cameron Park, CA 95682, 530-676-2100 Advanced Hydroponics 17808 Sierra Highway, Canyon Country, CA 91351 661-299-1603 Advanced Indoor Agriculture 74991 Joni Drive, Suite 9, Palm Desert, CA 92260 AG Natural 111 East 12th Street, Marysville, CA 95901 Alameda County Hydroponics 20910 Redwood Road, Suite C, Castro Valley, CA 94546 All Seasons Hydroponics 17614 Chatsworth Street, Granada Hills, CA 91344 818-368-4388 Alternative Hydro 3870 East, Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena, CA 91107 888-50-HYDRO Always Sunny Hydroponics 708 W. Swain Road Stockton, CA 95207 209-473-9827 American Garden Supply 286 South G Street, Arcata, CA 95521 800-458-6543 Anthonys Garden & Lighting Supply 30 Ridge Road, Suites 8 & 9 Sutter Creek, CA 95685 209-267-5416 Anything Grows 10607 W. River Street, Building 3 Suite C, Truckee, CA 96161 530-582-0479 Atwater Hydroponics 3350 Glendale Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90039 323-663-8881 Auburn Organic 4035 Grass Valley Highway, Auburn, CA 95602 530-823-8900 B & S Gardening Supplies 590 Commerce Court, Manteca, CA 95336 209-239-8648 Bakersfield Hydroponics 2408 Brundage Lane, Suite B Bakersfield, CA 93304 661-323-7333 Bare Roots Hydroponics 1615 East Cypress, #5 Redding, CA 96002 530-244-2215
Beginning Hydroponics PO Box 1232, Corona, CA 92787 951-735-4446 Best Coast Growers 4417 Glacier Avenue Suite C, San Diego, CA 92120 800-827-1876 Best Yield Garden Supply 3503 Temple Avenue #A, Pomona, CA 91768 909-839-0505 Berkeley Indoor Garden 844 University Avenue Berkeley, CA 94710 510-549-2918 Berkeleys Secret Garden 921 University Avenue, Berkeley, CA 94710 510-486-0117 Better Grow Hydro Pasadena 1271 E. Colorado Boulevard, Pasedena, CA 91106 626 737 6612 Better Grow Hydro Los Angeles 5554 Bandini Boulevard, Bell, CA 91106 323-510-2700; 877 640 GROW BWGS West 2247 North Plaza Drive Visalia, CA 93291 888-316-1306 California Hydroponics 310 Coral Street, Suite C Santa Cruz, CA 95060 831-423-4769 Caliponics Inc. 2030 Viborg Road, Unit 110 Solvang, CA 93463 877-PONICS9 Central Coast Hydrogarden 1951 Santa Barbara Street, San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 805-544-GROW Citrus Heights Hydrogarden 8043 Greenback Lane Citrus Heights, CA 95610 916-728-4769 City Farmers Nursery 4832 Home Avenue, San Diego, CA 92105 619-284-6358 Clover Hydroponics & Garden Supply 2626 South Main Street, Lakeport, CA 95453 707-263-4000 CNG Garden Supplies 22 Ricknbacker Circle, Livermore, CA 94551 209-836-5550 Cocas Central Valley Hydroponics 116 West Orangeburg Avenue, Modesto, CA 95350 209-567-0590 Concord Indoor Garden 2771 Clayton Road, Concord, CA 94519 925-671-2520 Conejo Hydroponics 3481 Old Conejo Road #106 Newbury Park, CA 91320 805-480-9596
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Conrad Hydroponics Inc. 14915 Unit E, Olympic Drive, Clearlake, CA 95422 707-994 3264 Constantly Growing 6200 Enterprise Drive, Suite A Diamond Springs, CA 95619 530-642-9710 Constantly Growing 4343 Hazel Avenue, Fair Oaks, CA 95628 916-962-0043 Constantly Growing - Davis 123 D Street Davis, CA 95616 530-756-4774 D&S Garden Supplies 17-130 Doolittle Drive San Leandro, CA 94577 510-430-8589 Dazeys Supply 3082 Redwood Drive, Redway, CA 95560 707-923-3002 Direct Hydroponics Wholesale 14228 Alberts Way, Chino, CA 91710 909-606-5885 Dirt Cheap Hydroponics 17975 H Highway 1, Fort Bragg, CA 95437 707-964-4211 Discount Hydroponics 4745 Hiers Avenue, Riverside, CA 92505 877-476-9487 Eel River Hydroponics & Soil Supply 164 Dinsmore Drive, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-726-0395 Elite Horticulture Supply 22330 Sherman Way, C13, Canoga Park, CA 91303 818-347-5172 Emerald Garden 8249 Archibald Avenue, Ranch Cucamanga, CA 91730 909-466-3796 Emerald Garden 13325 South Highway 101, Hopland, CA 95482 707-744-8300 Emerald Garden 307 East Perkins Street, Ukiah, CA 95482 707-463-2510 Evergreen Hydroponics 923 N. Central Avenue, Suite B, Upland, CA 91786 909-946-7100 Everything Green Hydroponics 915 Texas Street, Fairfield, CA 94533 707-432-0774 Everything Green 448 Georgia Street, Vallejo, CA 94590 707-647-0774 Extreme Hydroponics 11479 San Fernando Road C, San Fernando, CA 91340 818-898-0915 EZ Green Hydroponics 7017 Reseda Boulevard, Reseda, CA 91335 818-776-9076
Farm Hydroponics, The 1950 Lake Tahoe Boulevard #3, S. Lake Tahoe, CA 96150 530-541-3276 Foothill Hydroponics 10705 Burbank Boulevard, N. Hollywood, CA 91601 818-760-0688 Foothills Hydrogarden 3133 Penryn Road, Penryn, CA 95663 916-270-2413 Four Seasons Garden Center 1737 Broadway, Oakland, CA 94612 510-832-2545 Full Sun Supply 3535 Industrial Drive, Unit B-3 Santa Rosa, CA 95403 877-FULL-SUN Funny Farms Hydroponics 963 Transport Way, #12 Petaluma, CA 94954 707-775-3111 G & G Organics and Hydroponics 901 W. Victoria Street Unit D, Compton, CA 90220 310-632-0122 Garden Connection, The 2145 Park Avenue, Unit 2 Chico, CA 95928 530-342-7762 Garden Depot, The 203 Commerce St., Suite 101 Lodi, CA 95240 209-339-9950 Garden Shed, The 1136 El Camino Real San Carlos, CA 650-508-8600 Garden Spout, The 44800 Highway 101, Laytonville, CA 95454 707-984-7260 Garden Highway Garden Supply 598 Garden Highway #22 Yuba City, CA 95991 530-755-2877 Garden Spout, The 630 S. Main Street, Willits, CA 95490 707-456-0196 Garden Warehouse 6355 Scarlet Court, #2, Dublin, CA 94568 925-556-3319 Go Big Hydroponics 4501 Van Nuys Boulevard, Sherman Oaks, CA 91403 818-789-3341 Golden Harvest Hydroponics & Garden Supply 8626 Lower Sacramento Road #48, Stockton, CA 95210 209-951-3550 Gottagrow Garden Supply 769 Wilson Street, Santa Rosa, CA 95404 707-544-7782 Grass Roots Hydroponics 31877 Corydon, Suite 150 Lake Elsinore, CA 92530 951-245-2390 Grass Valley Hydrogardens 12520 Ste. 4, Loma Rica Drive, Grass Valley, CA 93945 530-477-2996 Green Acres Hydroponics 1215 Striker Avenue, Suite 180, Sacramento, CA 95834 916-419-4394
Green Coast Hydroponics 3560 State Street, Santa Barbara, CA 93105 805-898-9922 Green Coast Hydroponics 2405 Mira Mar Avenue, Long Beach, CA 90815 562-627-5636 Green Coast Hydroponics 496 Meats Avenue Orange, CA 92865 714-974-4769 Green Coast Hydroponics 11510 Whittier Boulevard Whittier, CA 90601 562-699-4201 Greenfire Sacramento 3230 Auburn Boulevard, Sacramento, CA 95821 916-485-8023 Green Logic Garden Supply 860 Piner Road, #38, Santa Rosa, CA 95403 707-843-3156 Greenmile Hydroponic Garden Supply 1480 South E. Street, Suite D, San Bernardino, CA 92408 909-885-5919 Green Thumb Hydroponics 35 Quinta Court, Suite B, Sacramento, CA 95823 916-689-6464 Green Thumb Lighting & Garden 1647 W. Sepulveda Boulevard, Unit 5, Torrance, CA 90501 888-326-GROW Greentrees Hydroponics Inc. 2581 Pioneer Avenue, Unit D Vista, CA 92081 760-598-7551 GreenWay Hydroponics 11510 Whittier Boulevard, Whittier, CA 90601 562-699-4201 Grow A Lot Hydroponics, San Diego 1591 N. Cuyamaca Street, El Cajon, CA 92020 619-300-2138 Growers Choice Hydroponics 1100 Carver Road, Modesto, CA 95350 209-522-2727 Growers Choice Hydroponics 16754 East 14th Street, San Leandro, CA 94578 510-278-6200 Grow It Yourself Gardens 401 Sunset Drive, Suite L, Antioch, CA 94509 925-755-GROW Grow King Hydroponics 932 South San Pedro Street, Los Angeles, CA 90015 213-689-8982 Grow Light Express 5318 East Second Street suite 164, Long Beach, CA 90803 888-318-GROW Grow Your Own 3401 Traval Street, San Francisco, CA 94116 415-731-2115 Grunder Family Organics & Hydroponics 12321 Magnolia Avenue, Suite C, Riverside, CA 92503 877-468-7974
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MAXIMUM YIELD
distributors
H20 Gardening 355 West 7th Street, San Pedro, CA 90731 310-514-1416 Hahns Lighting 260 E. VA Suite 1, San Jose, CA 95112 408-295-1755 Harvest Hydroponics 6650 Merchandise Way Suite B, Diamond Springs, CA 95619 530-622-5190 High Desert Hydroponics 13631 Pawnee Road, #7 Apple Valley, CA 92308 760-247-2090 Hi-Tech Gardening 5327 Jacuzzi Street, #282, Richmond, CA 94804 510-524-4710 Hollywood Hydroponics and Organics 5109 1/2 Hollywood Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90027-6105 323-662-1908 Hooked Up Hydroponics 339 S. Golden State Boulevard, Turlock, CA 95380 209-668-1300 House of Hydro 224 Weller Street, #B, Petaluma, CA 94952 707-762-4769 Humboldt Hydroponics 1302 Union Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-443-4304 Humboldt Nutrients 65th Street, Eureka, CA 95501 888-420-7770 Hydro Depot 5665 Redwood Drive, #B, Rohnert Park, CA 94928 707-584-2384 Hydroasis 2643 S. Fairfax Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90232 888-355-4769 Hydrobrew 1319 South Coast Highway, Oceanside, CA 92054 760-966-1885; 877-966-GROW Hydrogarden Delight 13762 Doolittle Drive, San Leandro, CA 94577 510-903-1808 Hydrogarden Mendocino County 1240 North Main Street, Fort Bragg, CA 95437 707-962-9252 Hydro-Logic Purification Systems 2825 Mattison Lane, Suite 103, Santa Cruz, CA 95065 888 H2O LOGIC HydroPacific - Hydroponics & Garden Supplies 351 C Hastings Av., Ukiah, CA 95482 707-467-0400 Hydroponic Connection, The 316 Fillmore Street, San Francisco, CA 94117 415-864-9376 Hydroponic Connection Warehouse, The 1995 Evans Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94124 415-824-9376 Hydroponics 4 Less 41669 Winchester Avenue, Temecula, CA 92590 800-A1-HYDRO Hydroponics Plus 2250 Commerce Avenue, Suite C Concord, CA 94520 925-691-7615 Hydrostar Hydroponics & Organics 1307 W. Sixth Street, #211, Corona, CA 92882 951-479-8069 Inland Empire Hydrogarden 1301-C South State Street, San Jancinto, CA 92853 886-72-HYDRO Inland Empire Hydrogarden 28822 Old Town Front St. #206 Temecula, CA 92590 886-74-HYDRO Innovative Growing Solutions (IGS) 7922-B Miramar Road, San Diego, CA 92126 858-578-IGS7 Kaweah Grower Supply 1106 1/2 N. Ben Maddox Way, Visalia, CA 93293 559-652-4937 Lazy Gardeners Hydroponics N More 14626 East Whittier Boulevard, Whittier, CA 90605 562-945-0909 Let it Grow 1228 2nd Street, Crescent City, CA 95531 707-464-9086 Let it Grow 160 Westwood Center, Arcata, CA 95521 707-822-8733 Liquid Gardens 21752 Devonshire Street, Chatsworth, CA 91311 818-718-7624 Long Beach Hydroponics & Organics 1772 Clark Avenue, Long Beach, CA 90815 562-498-9525 Lumatek Digital Ballasts 33 Commercial Boulevard, Suite B Novato, CA 94949 415-233-4273 M&M Garden Supply 2509 West Lane, Suite B Stockton, CA 95205 209-939-0664 M&M Garden Supply 22540 D Foothill Boulevard, 2509 Westlane Suite B Stockton, CA 95205 Marin Hydroponics 1219 Grant Avenue, Novato, CA 94945 415-897-2197 Merced Hydroponics 1635 M Street, Merced, CA 95340 209-726-4769 Mendocino Garden Shop PO Box 1301, 44720 Maint Street (at Hwy. 1), Mendocino, CA 95460 707-937-3459 Mendocino Greenhouse & Garden Supply 900 East School Way, Redwood Valley, CA 95470 707-485-0668 M.G.S. 22540 D Foothill Boulevard, Hayward, CA 94541 510-582-0900 Monterey Bay Horticulture Supply 224B Reindollar Avenue, Marina, CA 93933 831-38-HYDRO Monterey Bay Hydroponics and Organics 81 Hangar Way, #1, Watsonville, CA 95076 831-761-9999 Myron L Company 2450 Impala Drive, Carlsband, CA 9210-7226 760-438-2021 Mystic Gardens 8484 Florin Road, #110, Sacramento, CA 95828 916-381-2464 National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply 1950 C South Grove Avenue, Ontario, CA 91761 888-888-3319 Natures Dance Garden Supply 6542 Front Street, Forestville, CA 95436 707-887-2280 Natures Secret Garden and Supply 41469 Albrae Street, Fremont, CA 94577 510-623-8393 NorCal Creations PO Box 28, Cedar Ridge, CA 95924 Nor Cal Hydroponics 4837 Geary Boulevard, San Francisco, CA 94118 415-933-8262 Northcoast Horticulture Supply 122 West 4th Street, Suite B Eureka, CA 95501 707-444-9999 Northcoast Horticulture Supply 1580 Nursery Way, Suite Q McKinleyville, CA 95519 707-839-9998 Northcoast Hydrogardens 3450 North State Street, Ukiah, CA 95482 707-462-7214 No Stress Hydroponics 7543 Santa Monica Boulevard, West Hollywood, CA 90046 323-845-9874 One Stop Hydroponics 12822 Victory Boulevard North Hollywood, CA 91606 818-980-5855 Oracle Garden Supply 5755 Oberlin Drive, Suite 100 San Diego, CA 92121 858-558-6006 Orange County Hydroponics 12687 Beach Boulevard, Unit H, Stanton, CA 90680 714-893-9493 Organic Bountea 1919 Dennis Lane, Santa Rosa, CA 95403 800-798-0765
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Orsa Organix 111 Willow Street, Redwood City, CA 94063 650-369-1269 Pacific Beach Hydroponics 1852 Garnet Avenue, San Diego, CA 92109 858-274-2559 Pacific Coast Hydroponics 4147 Sepulveda Boulevard, Culver City, CA 90230 310-313-1354 Pacific Garden Supply 128 H Carlos Drive, San Rafael, CA 94903 Palmdale Hydroponics 2728 East Palmdale Boulevard Suite 108, Palmdale, CA 93550 661-266-9908 Palm Springs Hydroponics 4651 Ramon Road, Palm Springs, CA 92264 760-327-ROOT Plant It Earth 2279 Market Street, San Francisco, CA 94114 415-626-5082 Plant Life 32 Race Street, San Jose, CA 95126 408-283-9191 Precision Hydroponics 132 Kennedy Avenue, Campbell, CA 95008 408-866-8176 Professional Gardening Systems 765 Petaluma Avenue, Sebastopol, CA 95472 707-829-7252 Pro Gardening Systems 3715 Santa Rosa Ave. Suite A2, Santa Rosa, CA 95407 707-585-8633 Redway Feed & Grain Supply 290 Briceland Road, Redway, CA 95560 707-923-2765 Roots Grow Supply 1330 North Hulbert, #101 Fresno, CA 93728 559-840-0122 Sac Hydroponics 9529 Folson Boulevard, Suite C Sacramento, CA 95827 916-369-7968 San Diego Hydroponics East County 11649 Riverside Drive, Suite 141, Lakeside, CA 92040 619-562-3276 San Diego Hydroponics Beach Cities 4122 Napier Street, San Diego, CA 92110 619-276-0657 San Diego Hydroponics North 802 N. Twin Oaks Valley Road #108 San Marcos, CA 92069 760-510-1444 San Francisco Hydro 123 Tenth Street, San Francisco, CA 94103 Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - West 815 Almar Avenue, Suite K, Santa Cruz, CA 95060 831-466-9000
Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - East 4000 Cordelia Lane #4, Soquel, CA 95073 831-475-9900 Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - North 6241 Graham Hill Road, Felton, CA 95018 831-335-9990 Santee Hydroponics 7973A Mission Gorge Road, Santee, CA 92071 619-270-8649 Seaside Hydrogarden 1070 Highway 101 North, Crescent City, CA 95531 707-465-3520 Skywide Import & Export Ltd. 5900 Lemon Hill Avenue, Sacramento, CA 95824 916-383-2369 Socal Hydroponics 1727-B Oceanside Boulevard, Oceanside, CA 92054 760-439-1084 South Bay Hydroponics and Organics 569 East Evelyn Avenue, Mountain View, CA 94041 650-968-4070 South Bay Hydroponics and Organics - San Jose 1185 South Bascom Avenue, San Jose, CA 95128 408-292-4040 South County Hydroponics 22511 Aspan Street, Suite E Lake Forest, CA 92630 949-837-8252 South Valley Hydroponics 320 Kishimura Drive, #3 Gilroy, CA 95020 1-866-848-GROW Sparetime Supply 208 E. San Francisco Avenue, Willits, CA 95490-4006 707-459-6791 Sun-In Hydroponics 1257A Cleveland Avenue, Santa Rosa, CA 95401 707-578-5747 Sunland Hydroponics 8300 Foothill Boulevard, Sunland, CA 91040 818-352-5300 Supersonic Hydroponic and Organic Garden Supply 850 Shasta Avenue, Suite B Morro Bay, CA 93442 805-772-5869 Supersonic Hydroponic and Organic Garden Supply 3850 Ramada Drive, Unit D2 Paso Robles, CA 93446 805-434-2333 Sweet Leaf Hydroponics 1611 Sebastobol Road, Santa Rosa, CA 95407 707-575-GROW (4237) Sylvandale Gardens 77 Avenue, Of The Giants, Phillipsville, CA 95559 707-923-3606 Tell 2 Friends Indoor Gardening 62 Sutherland Drive, Auburn, CA 95603 530-889-8171 Thrive Hydroponics 70 A West North Street, Healdsburg, CA 95446 707-433-4068
Thunders Hydroponic Center 1729 Yosemite Boulevard, Medesco, CA 95354 TNC Supply 9490 Main Street, P.O. Box 763 Upper Lake, CA 95485 707-275-9565 Tower Garden Supply 3 E Olive, Fresno, CA 93728 559-495-1140 Tulare County Growers Supply 435 W. Noble Avenue, Unit A, Farmerville, CA 93223 559-732-8247 Turbo Grow 1889 San Pablo Avenue, Pinole, CA 94564 510-724-1291 Under The Sun 12638 Foothill Boulevard, Clearlake Oaks, CA 95423 707-998-GROW (4769) Urban Gardens 22516 Ventura Boulevard, Woodland Hills, CA 91364 818-876-0222 Urban Gardens Unlimited 704 Filbert Street, San Francisco, CA 94133 415-421-4769 US Orchid & Hydroponic Supplies 1621 South Rose Avenue, Oxnard, CA 93033 805-247-0086 Valley Garden Solutions Inc. 15650 Nordhoff Avenue, Suite 104, North Hills, CA 91345 818-336-0041 Wai Kula Hydrogardens 5297 Linda Vista Road, San Diego, CA 92110 619-299-7299 Weather Top Nursery 44901 Harmon Drive, Laytonville, CA 95454 707-984-6385 We Grow Hydroponics 3350 East Los Angeles Avenue, Simi Valley, CA 93063 805-624-4566 West Coast Growers Hydroponics 13481 Colifax Highway, Grass Valley, CA 95945 888-924-4769 West Coast Hydroponics, Inc. 27665 Forbes Road, Unit 10 Laguna Niguel, CA 92677 949-348-2424 Western Auto 1156 Main Street, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-725-1189
COLORADO
Bath Nursery & Garden Center 2000 E. Prospect, Fort Collins, CO 80525 970-484-5022 Big Tomato, The 14440 E. 6th Avenue Aurora, CO 80011 303-364-4769 Big Tomato, The 3000 Main Avenue, Durango, CO 81301 970-375-1238
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FLORIDA
3D Hydroponics and Organics 7139 US Highway #19, New Port Richey, FL 34652 727-847-3491 Absolute Growing Solutions Inc. 7307 49th Street, Pinellas Park, FL 33781 727-541-3333 Advanced Hydro Gardens 4960 NW 165 Street, Suite B-4, Miami, FL 33014 866-97-HYDRO Atlantic Hydroponics 430 Count Street, Melbourne, FL 32901 321-821-1535 Blossoms Experience, The 7207 NW 54th Street, Miami, FL 33166 866-452-4769 Cultivating Eden Hydroponic Supplies 946 18th Avenue SW, Vero Beach, FL 32962 772-564-8880 East Coast Hydroponics & Organics 461 Forrest Avenue, Suite 105 Coca, FL 32922 321-243-6800 Eden Garden Supply 5044 N. Palafox Street, Pensacola, FL 32505 850-439-1299 Esposito Garden Center 2743 Capital Circle NE, Tallahassee, FL 32308 850-386-2114 Florida Garden Supplies 2692 W 79 Street, Hialeah, FL 33016 1-800-931-5215 Florida Garden Supplies 8020 Belvedere Road,Unit 4, West Palm Beach, FL 33411 561-333-1088 Future Farms Inc., The 14291 SW 120th Street, Suite 105 Miami, FL 33186 305-382-2757 Gardeners Edge Gainesville 5000 NW 34th Street, Suite 13, Gainesville, FL 32605 352-375-2769 Gardeners Edge Jacksonville 5325 Fairmont Street, Jacksonville, FL 32207 904-398-8012 Gardening Indoors of St. Pete 13920 88th Avenue North, Seminole, FL 33776 Gold Coast Hydroponics 1539 SW 21st Avenue, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33312 1-800-780-7371 Gold Coast Hydroponics 4241 SW 71st Avenue, Miami, FL 33155 1-800-780-6805 Graces Hydro-Organic Garden Center 8877 North 56th Street Tampa, FL 33617 813-514-9376 Green Thumb Hydroponics Supplies 13482 North Cleveland Avenue, Fort Meyers, FL 33903 239-997-4769 Boulder County Caregivers PO Box 7406, Golden, CO 80403 303-495-2195 Boulder Hydroponics 1630 N. 63rd Street, #5, Boulder, CO 80301 303-415-0045 Cultivate Hydroponics & Organics 7777 W. 38th Avenue, #A120A Wheat Ridge, CO 80033 303-954-9897 Denver Hydroponic & Organic Center 6810 North Broadway, Unit D Denver, CO 80221 303-650-0091 Desert Bloom Hydroponics 445 Pitkin Avenue, Grand Junction, CO 81501 970-245-6427 Garden Tech 737 Garden of the Gods Road, Colorado Springs, CO 80907 719-278-9777 Greenhouse Tech 917 East Fillmore, Colorado Springs, CO 80907 719-634-0637 Grow Store South, The 5050 S. Federal Boulevard, #37, Englewood, CO 80110 303-738-0202 Grow Store, The 8644 W. Colfax Avenue, Lakewood, CO 80215 888-510-0350 Head Start Hydroponics & Organic Gardening Emporium 34500 US Highway 6, Unit B-9, North Edwards, CO 81632 970-569-3139 Hydro Shack, The 220 Main Street, Suite E Frisco, CO 80443 970-668-0359 Indoor Paradise Hydroponics 309 S. Summit View, Unit 17, Fort Collins, CO 80524-1462 970-221-3751 Rocky Mountain Lighting and Hydroponics 7100 N. Broadway, Suite 3D Denver, CO 80221 303-428-5020 Way To Grow 3201 E. Mulberry Street, Fort Collins, CO 80524 970-484-4769 Way To Grow 6395 Gunpark Drive, Boulder, CO 80301 303-473-4769 GreenTouch Hydroponics Inc. 5011 S State Road 7, Suite 104 Davie, FL 33314 954-316-8815 Grower's Choice & Hydroponics 11855 North Main Street, Jackonsonville, FL 32218 904-683-4517 Growing Experience, The 7029-9 Commonwealth Avenue, Jacksonville, FL 32220 954-960-0822 Growing Garden Inc., The 12811 SW 42nd Street, Miami, FL 33175 305-559-0309 Harvest Time Hydroponics 14414 N. Florida Avenue, Tampa, FL 33613 813-264-7101 Healthy Gardens and Supply of Florida, Inc. 196 East Nine Mile Road, Suite F , Pensacola, FL 32534 850-912-4545 High Tech Garden Supply 2975 West New Haven Avenue, Melbourne, FL 32901 321-821-0853 Hydro For Less 9545 Southwest 72nd Street, Miami, FL 33173 305-598-4311 Hydroponics International Inc. 7029-10 Commonwealth Avenue, Jacksonville, FL 32220 904-693-6554 Hydroponics of Tampa 120 W. Bougain Villea, Tampa, FL 33612 813-333-6828 Hydro Terra Corp. 924 North Federal Highway, Hollywood, FL 33020 954-920-0889 Just Ripe Garden Supply 13444 SW 131 Street, Miami, FL 33186 305-969-2004 Palm Beach Hydroponics Supply, Inc. 968 N. Congress Avenue, West Palm Beach, FL 33409 561-296-6161 Simply Hydroponics & Organics 7949 Ulmerton Road, Largo, FL 33773 727-531-5355 Simply Hydroponics & Organics (North) 3642 South Suncoast Boulevard, Homosassa, FL 34448 352-628-2655 Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center 1420 East Altomonte Drive, Altamonte Spring, FL 32701 407-830-GROW Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center 5561 S. Orange Blossom Trail, Orlando, FL 32809 407-859-7728 Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center 6100 Hanging Moss Road, Suite 500, Orlando, FL 32807 888-833-GROW Worms Way Florida 4412 North 56th Street, Tampa, FL 33610 800-283-9676; 813-621-1792
CONNECTICUT
Harvest Moon Hydroponics 775 Silver Lane, East Hartford, CT 06118 860-568-4067 LiquidSun CT 10C South Main Street, East Windsor, CT 06088 860-254-5757 Organix Hydroponics 749 Saybrook Road, (Tradewinds Plaza) Middletown, CT 06457 860-343-1923
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GEORGIA Atlantis Hydroponics 1422 Woodmont Lane, #4, Atlanta, GA 30318 404-367-0052 Atlantis Hydroponics 2561 West Point Avenue, College Park, GA 30337 678-510-0032 Flora Hydroponics Inc. 2475 Jefferson Road, Suite 600 Athens, GA 30607 866-404-0551 Savannah Hydroponics & Organics 4107 Eighth Street, Suite C Garden City, GA 31408 912-349-4030 HAWAII Aqua Plant Hawaii / Kahala Hydroponics 4224 Wailae, Suite 1A, Honolulu, HI 96816 808-735-8665 Ohana Greenhouse & Garden Supply 300 Hukilike Street, #2M, Kahalui, HI 96732 808-871-6393 Pahoa Feed & Fertilizer 15-2754 Old Government Road, Pahoa, HI 96778 808-965-9955
Kreations Indoor Gardening Center 3427 Old Chatman Road, Springfield, IL 62704 217-341-0821 Let it Grow - Carbondale West Main Street, Carbondale, IL 62908 573-450-5401 Water Works Indoor Gardening 1900 South Dirksen Parkway, Springfield, IL 62703 217-553-6929
Urban Organics 2805 St. Claude Avenue, New Orleans, LA 70117 504-945-8845
MAINE
Green Thumb Indoor Gardening 19 Stage Road, St. Albans, ME 04971 207-938-5909 Urban Gardenstore, The 235 Lewiston Road, Topshan, ME 04086 207-373-0990
INDIANA
BWGS 7854 North State Road 37, Bloomington, IN 47404 800-316-1306 Five Point Gardens 56555 Oak Road, South Bend, IN 46619 574-287-9232 Frogs Lilly Pad, The 706 Citation Road, Carmel, IN 46032 317-846-4610 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 4200 S. East Street, Indianapolis, IN 46227 317-780-8070 Magic Bulb Garden Center 6229 Allisonville Road, Indianapolis, IN 46220 317-202-2852 Sunleaves Garden Products 7854 North State Road 37, Bloomington, IN 47404 888-464-9676 Worms Way Indiana 7850 North State Road 37, Bloomington, IN 47404 800-598-8158
MARYLAND
East Coast Organics 2800 Sisson Street, Baltimore, MD 21211 Healthy Gardens and Supply 5001-F Harford Road, Baltimore, MD 21214 443-708-5144 Maryland Hydroponics & Garden Supply 10-10051 North 2nd Street, Laurel, MD 20723 866-MD-HYDRO Meadowview Feed & Garden Center 1202 Meadowview Road, Pasadena, MD 21122 443-817-0018 Purple Mountain Organics 100-7010 Westmoreland Avenue, Takoma Park, MD 20912 877-538-9901
IDAHO
Boise Hydroponics 614 North Orchard Street, Boise, ID 83706 208-344-3053 Greenthumb Greenhouses 5895 Ensign Avenue, Boise, ID 83714
MASSACHUSETTS
Green Path Garden Supply 276 West Main Street, Northborough, MA 01532 508-393-4181 LiquidSun MA 8 Lynwood Avenue, Holyoke, MA 01040 413-539-6875 Worms Way Massachusetts 121 Worc-Providence Turnpike, Sutton, MA 01590 800-284-9676
ILLINOIS
Aerostar Global 824 South Kay Avenue, Addison, IL 60101 Alternative Garden Supply A-615 Industrial Drive, Gary, IL 60013 800-444-2837 Big Grow Hydroponics 9225 Trinity Drive, Lake In The Hills, IL 60156 Brew and Grow 1824 North Besly Court, Chicago, IL 60622 773-395-1500 Brew and Grow 3224 South Alpine Road, Rockford, IL 61109 815-874-5700 Brew and Grow 2379 Bode Road, Schaumburg, IL 60194 847-885-8282 Fertile Ground 463 West MacArthur Drive, Cottage Hills, IL 62018 618-259-5500 Green Fields 8137 N. Milwaukee, Niles, IL 60714 847-965-5056 Grow Big Hydroponics 7817 B North 2nd Street, Manchesney Park, IL 61115 815-637-4769 Hydrocork 20647 Renwick Road, Crest Hill, IL 60435 815-838-0100
KANSAS
Green Circle Hydroponics 6890 W. 105th Street, Overland Park, KS 66212 913-642-3888
KENTUCKY
Garden Grove Organics 29 East 7th Street, Covington, (Cincinnati Metro), KY 41011 859-360-1843 Grow Shop, The of Lexington 2320 Palumbo Drive, Suite 130, Lexington, KY 40509 859-268-0779 Louisville Hydroponics 3471 Taylor Boulevard, Louisville, KY 40215 502-366-4000 New Earth Garden Center 9810 Taylorsville Road, Louisville, KY 40299 800-462-5953 Worms Way Kentucky 1360 Donaldson Hwy. Suite A, Erlanger, KY 41018 800-669-2088
MICHIGAN
BIg Creek Hydroponics 555 Old Little Lake Road, Marquette, MI 49855 906-249-5297 Cultivation Station of Michigan Inc., The 23529 Little Mack Avenue, St Claires Shores, MI 48080 586-775-9485 Growco Garden Supply 1042 Michigan Street, NE, Grand Rapids, MI 49503 877-939-6900 Home Grown Hydroponics 8075 Gratiot Road, Unit C, Saginaw MI 48609 989-781-1930 Homelight Gardens 3471 S. Huron Road, Bay City, MI 48706 989-922-0088 Horizen Hydroponics 1614 Leonard Street, NW, Grand Rapids, MI 49504 866-791-7057
LOUISIANA
Laughing Buddha Nursery 4516 Clearview Parkway, Metairie, LA 70006 504-887-4336
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MISSOURI
Divine Hydroponics 301 North Bishop Avenue, Rolla, MO 65401 573-426-2348 Grow Your Own Hydroponics 3617 Saint John Avenue, Kansas City, MO 64123 816-241-2122 Green Circle Hydroponics 12 East Missouri, Kansas City, MO 64106 816-421-1840 Heartland Hydroponics 5695 E. Clark Lane, Suite L, Columbia, MO 65202 HYDROGARDENS 573-474-GROW (4769) Let It Grow - Springfield 2519 E. Kearney Street, Springfield, MO 65803 417-862-GROW Let It Grow - Girardeau 879 S. Kings Highway, Cape Girardeau, MO 63703 573-803-0628 U-Grow 1724 North, 13th Street, St. Louis, MO 63106 314-452-6368 Worms Way Missouri 1225 North Warson Road, St. Louis, MO 63132 800-285-9676 Hydroharrys.com 24500 Dequindre, Warren, MI 48091 800-461-8819 Hydrospot 34236 Michigan Avenue, Wayne, MI 48184 734-722-1285 J&L Growco 206 S. Michigan Avenue, Big Rapids, MI 49307 231-796-1528 Kalamazoo Indoor Garden 450 W. Maple, Kalamazoo, MI 49001 269-344-2550 Light Green Water 3661 Highland Road, Waterford, MI 48329 248-681-0001 SH Hydroponics Inc. 115 Holmes Road, Building 3 Suite A, Ypsilanti, MI 48198 734-879-4014 Sunshine Supply Co. 1807 South Mission, Mt. Pleasant, MI 48858 989-775-3700 Superior Growers Supply 19582 Middlebelt Road, Livonia, MI 48152 248-473-0450 Superior Growers Supply 4870 Dawn Avenue, East Lansing, MI 48823 517-332-2663 Van Hydro 7480 N State, Davison, MI 48423 810-653-8267 Wild Child 7740 M 72 East, Traverse City, MI 49690 866-711-GROW Still-H2O Inc. 14375 North 60th Street, Stillwater, MN 55082 651-351-2822 Lorraine Ink 290 Spear Court, Fernley, NV 89408 775-575-7757 Nevada Hydroponics 4700 B Maryland, Suite 1, Las Vegas, NV 89119 702-798-2852
NEW HAMPSHIRE
Hydro World 17 White Birch Lane, Lincoln, NH 03251 603-745-3030
NEW JERSEY
77HYDRO 37 Fairfield Place, West Caldwell, NJ 07006 877-774-9376 Claraqua 4 Redwood Court, West Windsor, NJ 08550 East Coast Horticultural Supply 1652 Hurffville Road, Swewell, NJ 08080 856-228-5290 Green Touch 2 Hydroponics Inc. 888 Route 33, Unit 1, Hamilton, NJ 08619 609-570-8829
greentouch2
HYDROP O N I C S I N C .
NEW MEXICO
AHL Garden Supply 1051 San Mateo Blvd. SE, Albuquerque, NM 87108 505-255-3677 Common Shaman 1319 San Mateo N.E., Albuquerque, NM 87110 505-255-6463
NEBRASKA
Advanced Hydro-Ponics 10711 Mockingbird Drive, Omaha, NE 68127 (108th and L-Q) 402-991-6630 Paradigm Gardens 8949 J Street, Suite 5, Omaha, NE 68127 402-339-4949 Patio-Ponics 3255 Cornhusker Highway, Suite 4 Lincoln, NE 68504 402-466-9218
NEW YORK
California Hydroponics 27 Corporate Circle, East Syracuse, NY 13057 315-432-9387 East Coast Hydroponics 14649 Horace Harding Exp, Flushing, NY 11367 718-762-8880 Environmental Gardens 8 John Walsh Boulevard, Suite 310 Peekskills, NY 10566 800-254-0507; 914-736-6676 FutureGarden Inc. 59 Central Avenue, Farmingdale, NY 11735 516-420-0884 Greentree Nursery 308 Elmira Road, Ithaca, NY 14850 607-272-3666 Grow Room, The 8 Bridge Street, Nyack, NY 10960 800-449-9630 Harvest Moon Hydroponics Henrietta Townline Plaza, 3047 West Henrietta Road, Rochester, NY 14623 716-865-7353 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 340 West at 59, Central Nyack, NY 10960 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 147 Fourth Street, Troy, NY 10960
MINNESOTA
American Garden Supply 601-6th Avenue, North, Princeton, MN 55371 763-631-0543 Brew and Grow 8179 University Avenue, Fridley, MN 55432 612-780-8191 EcoGarden Supply 1553 Como Avenue, Suite B St. Paul, MN 55108 Eden Indoor Organic Gardens 831 Highway 75 North Moorhead, MN 56560 218-477-EDEN (3336) Indoor Gardening 10 NE 3rd Street, Faribault, MN 55021 507-209-1546 Interior Gardens 115 -1620 Central Avenue NE, Minneapolis, MN 55413 800-498-4178; 612-870-9077 Midwest Hydroponics 3440 Belt Line Boulevard, Suite A, Minneapolis, MN 55416 888-449-2739
NEVADA
AAA Indoor Organic Garden SuperCenter 2101 S. Decatur Boulevard, #21, Las Vegas, NV 89102 702-450-4769 Advanced Gardens Hydroponics 3111 South Valley View, Suite V103 Las Vegas, NV 89102 702-257-4769 All American Hydroponics 2675 East Patrick Lane, Unit 8, Las Vegas, NV 89120 702-894-9888 Anything Grows 190 West Moana Lane, Reno, NV 89509 775-828-1460 Carson Valley Hydroponics 2520 Empire Ranch Road, Carson City, NV 89701 775-884-4769
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Hudson Valley Hydroponics 217 Route 32 North, New Paltz, NY 12561 845-255-3633 Hydro Garden Center 1069B Lyell Avenue, Rochester, NY 14606 1-800-277-1322 Hydroponics of Buffalo 1497 Hertel Avenue, Buffalo, NY 14216 716-838-3545 Hydroponics Shops of America 2606 Erie Boulevard, Syracuse, NY 13224 315-251-2516 Indoor Outdoor Gardener 8223 5th Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11209 718-836-2402 KG Garden Supply 1327 Floyd Avenue, Rome, NY 13440 1-877-KG-HYDRO Saratoga Organics & Hydroponic Supply 19 Front Street, Ballston Spa, NY 12020 518-885-2005; 800-850-4769 Sunlight Solutions Hydroponics 2045 Niagara Falls Boulevard, Suite 13, Niagara Falls, NY 14304 888-GROWBOX
OHIO
Advanced Hydrorganics Indoor Garden Center 5204 Darrow Road, Hudson, OH 44236 234-380-1287 Akron Garden Center 1749 South Main Street, Akron, OH 44319 330-724-2700 Blooming Gardens 1805 Elm Road, Warren, OH 44483 330-372-1039 Cleveland Garden Center Inc. 727 East 185th Street, Cleveland, OH 44119 216-481-7868 CropKing 134 West Drive, Lodi, OH 44254 330-302-4203 Carefree Garden Center 134 West Drive, Lodi, OH 44254 330-302-4203 Dayton Hydroponics 3856 Miamisburg-Centerville Road, West Carrolton, OH 45449 937-859-3999 Garden Indoors of Ohio 4720 Indianola Avenue, Columbus, OH 43214 800-833-6868 Harvest Moon 9215 Market Street, Youngstown (North Lima), OH 44452 800-776-8399 Garden Grove Organics 29 East 7th Street, Covington, (Cincinnati Metro), KY 41011 859-360-1843 Grow Wizard, The 5700 Denison Avenue, Cleveland, OH 44102 216-961-2500 Herb-N-Garden Center 14901 Puritas Avenue, Cleveland, OH 44135 216-252-2001 Indoor Garden Worx 906 Blue Avenue, Zanesville, OH 43701 866-900-9679 Indoor Gardens 1222 Hill Road, North, Pickerington, OH 43147 614-866-6065 Kissed by the Sun Hydroponic 10740 Reading Road, Cincinnati, OH 45241 513-769-0159 Magic Home Gardens 209 Cemetery Road, Canal Winchester, OH 43110 614-837-2440 Magic Home Garden 4538 Indianola Avenue, Columbus, OH 43214 614-263-2440 Summit Hydroponics 1030 Kenmore Boulevard Akron, OH 44314-2114 330-753-5222 Sweet Greens 5540 Brecksville Road Independence, OH 44131 800-421-7084
Super Harvest 5956 A Colerain Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45239 513-385-5999 Toledo Hydroponics Ltd. 855 S. Holland-Sylvania Road, Suite 2 Toledo, OH 43615 1-877-893-0716 Trinity Hydro Organics 435 Woodman Drive Riverside, OH 45431 937-252-GROW Worms Way - Greater Cincinatti / N. Kentucky 1360 Donaldson Road (Route 236), Suite A, Erlanger, KY 41018 800-669-2088
OKLAHOMA
AAAAHA! Hydroponics Unlimited P.O. Box 74, Oakhurst, OK 74050 Tulsa County Hydro-Organics 1928 W. Albany, Broken Arrow, OK 74012 918-259-HYDRO Urban Garden 3141 E. 15th Street, Tulsa, OK 74104 918-289-0018
OREGON
American Agriculture 9220 Southeast Stark Street, Portland, OR 97216 800-433-6805 Anthonys Garden & Light Supply 93779 B Troy Lane, Coos Bay, OR 97420 541-266-8822 Aqua Serene 2836 W. 11, Eugene, OR 97402 541-485-2171 Aqua Serene Hydro Gardens 1090 Benson Way, Ashland, OR 97520 541-482-7600 Basin Indoor Gardening 1221 Main Street, Klamath Falls, OR 97601 541-273-2023 B.I.G.S. 155 SW Century Drive, Suite 401, Bend, OR 97702 541-385-5222 BIGS Warehouse 2606 SW 4th Street, Unit B Redmond, OR 97756 541-504-8886 Cascade Horticulture 39570 Pioneer Boulevard, Sandy, OR 97055 503-668-8242 Corvallis Hydroponics & Organics 5490 Philomath Road, Corvallis, OR 97333 541-738-2820 Everybodys Garden Center 2701 SE 14th Avenue, Portland, OR 97202 503-231-1582 Garden Spout, The 4532 South East 63rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97206 503-788-4769 Gorge Garden Center 1203 12th Street Suite H, Hood River, OR 97031 541-386-GROW
NORTH CAROLINA
Asheville Agricultural Systems 45 Banks Avenue, Asheville, NC 28801 828-253-4112 Be Well Hydroponics & Urban Gardening 4732 Monroe Road, Charlotte, NC 28205 704-344-8010 BWGS East 4045 Perimeter West Drive, Suite 400 Charlotte, NC 28214 800 316 1306 Carolina Hydrogardens 4823 Meadow Drive, Durham, NC 27713 919-544-4300 Fifth Season Gardening Company 1616 D-3 Battleground Avenue, Greensboro, NC 27408 336-271-3373 Flow & Grow Hydroponics & Organic Garden Center 4521 Cumberland Road, Fayetteville, NC 28306 910-423-FLOW (3569) Garden Works, The 5619-A Hillsborough Street, Raleigh, NC 27606 919-852-4747 New Age Gardens 2236A US Highway 70, Swannanoa, NC 28778 828-299-9989 Progressive Gardens 6005 Oleander Drive, Wilmington, NC 28403 910-395-1156 Urban Organics and Hydroponics 4604 W. Market Street, Suite 106, Greensboro, NC 27407 336-316-0604 Waters Edge Hydro-Gardens & Organics 107 South White Street, Wake Forest, NC 27587 919-562-5343
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MAXIMUM YIELD
distributors
Gorilla Garden Supply 1810 Virginia Avenue, North Bend, OR 97459 Garden Supplies 541-756-5005 Green Thumb Hydrogarden and Organic Supply 2021 West Main Street, Medford, OR 97501 541-779-8600 Grodan Inc. Box 1836, Jacksonville, OR 97530 541-646-8245 Grow America Garden Supply LLC 11511 SW Pacific Highway, Tigard, OR 97223 503-841-6868 Growing Crazy (Hooked On Hydroponics) 817 W. 2nd Street, Medford, OR 97501 Herb N Jungle Hydroponics 930 SE Textron Drive, Bend, OR 97702 541-382-4010 Homegrown Garden Supply 7112 NE Gilsan Street, Portland, OR 97213 877-EZ2-GROW Indoor Garden Center 1697 SE 25th Street, Salem, OR 97302 503-566-7888 Indoor Garden Depot 15828 SE McLoughlin Boulevard, Milwaukie, OR 97267 503-786-2445 Island Flowers & Indoor Garden Center 909 N. Tomahawk Island Drive, Suite 103, Portland, OR 97217 503-546-3185 J-N-B Hydro 2 Go 155 West Central Avenue, Sutherlin, OR 97479 541-459-9211 Ladybug Indoor Gardens 3960 W. Main Street, Medford, OR 97501 541-618-4459 Lights Distributing 9843 SW 55th Avenue, Portland, OR 97219 Liquid Sun 1845 Southwest Highway 101, Lincoln City, OR 97367 541-994-7070 Northern Light and Garden Beaverton 9290 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway, Beaverton, OR 97005 503-297-7331 Northern Light and Garden Grants Pass 1203 Rogue River Highway, Grants Pass, OR 97527 541-474-1700 Northern Light and Garden Salem 1915 Lancester Drive, Salem, OR 97305 503-364-4769 Oregon Rainforest Co. 19949 E. Burnside Street, Gresham, OR 97233 503-465-9909 Paradise Supply Inc. 1409 N. Highway 99, Ashland, OR 97520 541-552-1037 Rain or Shine 13126 NE Airport Way, Portland, OR 97230 503-255-1981 Roots Garden Supply 5426 North Gay Avenue, Portland, OR 97217 503-285-4768 Roseburg Hydroponics 853 SE Stephens Street, Roseburg, OR 97470 541-229-1420 SunInside Gardening Co. 665 Conger, Unit F, Eugene, OR 97402 541-686-9966 Urban Flora 2865 South East, Portland, OR 97214 503-236-3344 Wizard's Garden, LLC 621 Spruce Street, Unit C, Myrtle Point, OR 97458 541-572-2333
TENNESSEE
Advanced Hydroponic Garden 783 French Mill Road, Dandridge, TN 37725 800-521-1643 Advanced Hydroponic Garden 6912 Clinton Highway, Knoxville, TN 37921 866-938-3318 All Seasons Gardening and Brewing Supply Co. 924 8th Avenue, South, Nashville, TN 37203 800-790-2188 Atlantis Hydroponics 1800 Rossville Avenue, #3, Chattanooga, TN 37408 423-752-5400 National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply 126 Belinda Parkway, Mt. Juliet, TN 37122 888-265-9005 Perpetual Harvest 75 Riverport Drive, Jackson, TN 38301 877-422-3391 Sun City Hydroponics 2235 Whitten Road, Suite 104, Memphis, TN 38133 901-372-8100 Worms Way Tennessee 707 Rivergate Parkway, Suite E Goodlettsville, TN 37072 800-397-4153 TEXAS Airline Hydroponics P.O. Box 980904, Traders Village #363, Houston, TX 77098 713-942-0484 Botani Hydroponics & Organics 7730 Highway 6 South Houston, TX 77083 281-575-1999 Brite Ideas Hydroponics & Organics 4360 S.Congress Avenue, #310, Austin, TX 78745 512-444-2100 Field of Dreams Indoor Growing Supplies 5302 Slide Road Unit B, Lubbock, TX 79414 806-793-2901 GroGreen Hydroponics 4015 Main Street, Dallas, TX 75226 214-370-9984 Houston Discount Hydroponics 9384 Richmond Avenue, Houston, TX 77063 713-464-9406 Hydro Mart 3841 Main Street, Rowlett, TX 75088 972-475-6114 Innergrow Hydroponics 24451 Interstate Highway 20, Wills Point, TX 75169 866-475-4769 Jolly Green Hydroponics (Greenhouse Horticultural Supplies) 13628 Neutron Road, Dallas, TX 75244 (866) WE-JOLLY; 469-341-5555
PENNSYLVANIA
Full Bloom Hydroponics 84 South 24th Street, Pittsburgh, PA 15203 888-872-3602 Garden Indoors of Pennsylvania 208 Route 13, Bristol, PA 19007 800-227-4567 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 1239 South Airport Road, Allentown, PA 18103 610-432-4949 Healthy Gardens and Supply 1012 Lincoln Avenue, Prospect Park, PA 19076 866-32-HYDRO High Tech Garden Supply 20232 Route 19, Unit 6, Cranberry Twp., PA 16066 724-473-1113 Home Hydroponics of Pittsburgh 2008 Smallman Street, Pittsburgh, PA 15222 412-232-7030 Home Hydroponics of Pittsburgh 830 Route 119, Greensburg, PA 15601 724-836-1118
RHODE ISLAND
LiquidSun RI 1179 Central Avenue, Pawtucket, MA 02861 401-722-2724
SOUTH CAROLINA
247 Garden Supply 535 D Clemson Road, Columbia, SC 29229 803-788-4445 All Good Hydroponics & Gardening 6729 Two Notch Road, Columbia, SC 29223 803-708-4819 GreenSpirit Hydrogarden 184 Meeting Street, Charleston, SC 29407 843-225-1GRO; Green Thumb Unique Gardening & More 1230 Rutherford Road, Greenville, SC 29609 864-271-8830
144
Lone Star Hydroponics and Organics 1302 Motor Circle, Dallas, TX 75207 214-634-9376 Sol Organics & Hydroponics 1634 Babcock Road, San Antonio, TX 78229 210-366-9082 Texas Growers Supply 5990 N. Sam Houston Pkwy. E. #602, Humble, TX 77396 281-441-3739 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Central Austin) 5126 Burnet Road, Austin, TX 78756 512-459-4769 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (South Austin) 2125-A Goodrich Avenue, Austin, TX 78704 512-440-4769 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Dallas) 3400 Elm Street, Dallas, TX 75226 214-744-4769 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Houston) 7730 A Park Place Boulevard, Houston, TX 77087 713-641-4769 Ultimate Hydroponic Garden Supply 6125 West Sam Houston Parkway, North Suite 206 Houston, TX 77041 713-856-8425
Inside-Out Garden Supply 6517 Backlick Road, Springfield, VA 22150 703-451-3259
WASHINGTON
Aqua Serene 3839 Stone Way North, Seattle, WA 98103 206-547-GROW Eco Enterprises 1240 NE 175th Street, #B Shoreline, WA 98155 800-426-6937 Garden Smart 500 Bond Drive, Castlerock, WA 98611 360-274-7960 Green Gardens Distributing 12738 Bel-Red Road, Bellevue, WA 98005 425-454-5731 Hydro-Tech 2121 Aurora Avenue, North, Seattle, WA 98103 206-547-2202 Indoor Garden Depo 6305 NE Highway 99, Vancouver, WA 98665 360-993-7779 Indoor Garden & Lighting 3839 6th Avenue, Tacoma, WA 98406 253-761-7478 Indoor Garden & Lighting 23303 Highway 99, Suite A, Edmonds, WA 98026 425-673-2755 Indoor Garden & Lighting 714 South Central Avenue, Kent, WA 98032 253-373-9060 Kent Garden Supplies Ltd. 18817 East Valley Highway, Kent, WA 98032 425-251-9299 Lindas Gardening & Hydroponics 11522 Canyon Road East, Puyallup, WA 98373 253-531-9641 Liquid Sunshine Hydroponics 5087 Lincoln Road, Blaine, WA 98230 M & R Lighting 17238 Memorial Drive, Mt. Vernon, WA 98273 360-848-1080 M & R Lighting Unit C 22914 Highway 410, Buckley, WA 98390 253-891-4190 National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply 5408 NE 88th Street, Building A, Vancouver, WA 98665 888-478-6544 Northern Light and Garden Vancouver 6305 NE Highway 99, Vancouver, WA 98665 360-993-7779 Northern Lights Gardening 4159 Hannegan Road, Bellingham, WA 98225 360-715-8585 Northwest Horticulture Supply 161 Hooker Road, #1, Sequim, WA 98057 360-582-0702
Renton Indoor Garden Center 207 Sunset Blvd. N, Building A, Renton, WA 98055 425-917-9000 River City Hydroponics 1514 East Francis Avenue, Spokane, WA 99208 509-464-0246 Solar Shop 306 West 4th Street, Tonasket, WA 98855 509-486-4508 Spokane Organic and Hydroponic Supply 4823 East Sprague Avenue E., Spokane Valley, WA 99212 509-534-4055 WISCONSIN Aric's Indoor Garden Supply 1104 West Wisconsin Avenue, Appleton, WI 54914 920-574-3258 Brew and Grow 285 N. Janacek Road, Brookfield, WI 53045 262-789-0555 Brew and Grow 3317 Agriculture Drive, Madison, WI 53716 608-226-8910 Grow BIG Hydroponics 954 S. Westland, Appleton, WI 54914 920-749-4769 Paradigm Gardens 4539 Helgesen Drive, Madison, WI 53718 608-241-3800 PUERTO RICO Tecno-Hydro Ave Campo Rico GJ17, Carolina, PR 00982 787-752-8252
UTAH
Salt Lake Plant & Hydro 60 West 3300 S. #6, South Salt Lake, UT 84115 801-488-3200
VERMONT
Green Thumb Gardening P.O. Box 235, Route 15, Underhill, VT 5489 800-564-9376 Greenthumb - Vermont 394 Route 15, Jericho, VT 05465 802-899-4323 LiquidSun VT 1 Bellows Falls Road, (Route 5 North) Putney, VT 05158 802-387-1100
MY
WE THANK ALL OF OUR DEDICATED RETAILERS FOR OFFERING MAXIMUM YIELD TO THEIR CUSTOMERS. ARE YOU CURRENTLY DISTRIBUTING MAXIMUM YIELD FROM YOUR RETAIL STORE? If so, pass along your contact information to us here at the magazine care of linda@ maximumyield.com and we will add your stores name, address and telephone number to our distributor listing in an upcoming issue. Add your company logo to the distributor listings! Call 250-729-2677 or Email keri@maximumyield.com
VIRGINIA
Blue Ridge Hydroponics & Home Brewing Co. 5524 Williamson Road, Suite 11 Roanoke VA 24012 540-265-2483 Clean & Green Technologies 196 Corning Drive, Christiansburg, VA 24073 866-694-1628 Hydroponics & Growlights 13400 Occoquan Road, Woodbridge, VA 22191 703-490-0700 I Love Hydroponics 612 N. Sheppard Street, Richmond, VA 23221 804-377-3020 I Love Hydroponics 368 Newtown Road, #105, Virginia Beach, VA 23462 757-490-5425
COMING UP IN
FEATURES
september
THE PLANT FACTORY Dr. Mike Nichols researches the history of greenhouses and how this unique plant environment has developed in countries around the world. FEED CIRCUITS Bob Taylor discusses how a tidy and uncomplicated feed circuit minimizes the risk of leaks and blockages in your hydroponic grow system. ARE YOU AFRAID OF THE DARK? Jonathan Valdman of Forever Flowering Greenhouses examines light deprivation or blacking out, and how this technique shortens the duration of the suns light cycle.
CLOTHE YOUR SOIL WITH COVER CROPS Roland Evans examines cover crops, or green manures, as a crucial element of sustainable organic cultivation.
DRYING AND PRESERVING HERBS The ancient process of drying and preserving herbs for culinary purposes is presented by Matt LeBannister.
KEEPING ROOTS IN TIP TOP CONDITION Dr. Lynette Morgan provides proven tips and tricks that preserve the health of your plants roots.
www.maximumyield.com
WIN BIG! GROW BIG! Dont miss out on your chance to win this months amazing prizes in our bi-monthly online reader contest.Visit www. maximumyield.com/winbig and enter your name for four chances to win. While youre there, why not sign up for our free monthly E-News featuring the latest news and tricks in our industry.
Visit indoorgardenexpo.com for all of the latest updates of the 2009 Indoor Gardening Expo tour. Plan to attend.
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My Usa August 09

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USA

CONTENTS august 2009

Strands of Gold: Growing Saffron

86 94 100 106 112

Come Clone With Us

Sun and Soil: Natural Greenhouse Growing Sunlight In the Garden

Composting 101: An Overview

Soil - Who Doesn't Love it?

Bob Taylor is the chief chemist of Flairform (www.flairform.com) - an

Roland Evans is lifelong gardener and CEO of Organic Bountea. As

Jared Garrett is an accomplished writer with experience in educa-

Jose Luis Pinheiro Bartolo is the President and Chief Executive

Kevin Dunlop was born in Hampshire, England and has been

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

And dIseAse controLs: Send Them Running

Friends and Fans

Coming up on the Web

VOLUME 10 NUMBER 5 August 2009

Good luck and good growing. Cheers, Erik Biksa

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Cloned Crops Closer to Being Realized

Hydro for Hunger Announces 2009 Sponsors and Products

Vegas Restaurant Entices Customers with Potted Herb Wall

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Growing Power in an Urban Food Desert

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Organic Plant Waste Effective Weed Control for Citrus Trees

Vitamin Mix Helps Health of Farmed Fish

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

San Francisco Policy to Increase Citys Recycling Rate to 90%

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Crowded Cities to Sprout Skyscraper Greenhouses

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

Announcing Rootech Cloning Gel in a New Economic Size

Introducing the Flexitank

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

Introducing the Thirsty Light

Earth Juice Hydro-Spice Grow and Bloom

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

Introducing the All-New Dirt God from Moonshine Park Farm

An All-Accessories Pass to the DarkRoom

The New NightLight from C.A.P.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

The saffron plant

"Saffron is the worlds highest priced spice."

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

Strands of Gold: Growing Saffron

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

Strands of Gold: Growing Saffron

The Grow Room

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

Strands of Gold: Growing Saffron

Flowering and Harvesting

Strands of Gold: Growing Saffron

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009

Strands of Gold: Growing Saffron

Harvested strands of saffron, ready for drying.

A bevy of spicy saffron recipes are available at www.maximumyield.com

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - August 2009