DYEING METHODS

DEEPALI CHOUDHARY NIFT-G

Dyeing- a general introduction

Dyeing is the process of adding color to textile products like fibers, yarns, and fabrics. Dyeing is normally done in a special solution containing dyes and particular chemical material. After dyeing, dye molecules have uncut Chemical bond with fiber molecules.

Dyes are obtained from flowers, nuts, berries and other forms of vegetables and plants as well as from animal and mineral sources. These are known as natural dyes. The other class of dyes is known as synthetic dyes that are artificially prepared. .

Dyeing methods
Textile materials can be dyed using batch, continuous or semi-continuous processes. The type of process used dependson several things including type of material (fiber, yarn, fabric, fabric construction, garment), generic type of fiber, sizeofdye lots and quality requirements in thedyed fabric. Machinery for dyeing must be resistant to attack by acids, bases, other auxiliarychemicals and dyes. Stainless steel is normally used as the construction material for all parts of dyeing machines that will come in contact with dye formulations.

Batch dyeing processes

Batch processes are the most common method used to dye textile materials. Batch dyeing is sometimes called exhaust dyeing because the dye is gradually transferred from a relatively large volume dye bath to the material being dyed over a relatively long period of time. The

dye is said to exhaust -from the dye bath to thesubstrate. Textile substrates can be dyedin batch processes in almost any stage of their assembly into a textile product including fiber, yarn, fabric or garment. Generally, flexibility in color selection is better and cost of dyeing is lower the closer dye application is to the end of the manufacturing process for a textile product. Some batch dyeing machines operate at temperatures only up to 1 OOC. Enclosure of the dye machine so that it can be pressurized provides the capability to dye at temperatures higher than 1OOC. Cotton,rayon, nylon, wool and some otherfibers dye well at temperatures of 1 OOC orlower. Polyester and some other synthetic fibers dye more easily at temperatures higher than IOOC. The three general types of batch dyeing machines are those in which the fabric is circulated, those in which the dye bath is circulated while the material being dyed is stationary, and those in which both the bath and material are circulated. Fabrics and garments are commonly dyed in machines in which the fabric is circulated. The formulation is in turn agitated by movement of the material being dyed. Fiber, yarn and fabric can all be dyed in machines which hold the material stationary and circulate the dye bath. Jet dyeing is the best example of a machine that circulates both the fabric and the dye bath. Jet dyemachines are excellent for knit fabrics, but woven fabrics can also be dyed using jet machines. The following are examples of some batch dyeing machines.

Optimizing the Batch Dyeing Process

For any dyers the ultimate dream is to get the maximum out of the process of dyeing, at minimal cost. For a batch dyeing process the following techniques can prove to be effective for optimum utilization.

Use machinery that are fitted with latest state-of-the-art automatic controllers of fill volume, temperature and other dyeing cycle parameters, indirect system of cooling and heating, innovative hoods and doors that lessens vapour losses. Choosing the machinery that is exactly sized for the batch that needs to be processed. Also confirmation that it is operated exactly within the specified range of nominal liquor ratios for which it is designed. It has been seen that machines that are operated with a consistent liquor ratio while being loaded at 60 percent level of their nominal capacity gives optimum results. With yarn dyeing machines this level can stretch to even 30% of the nominal capacity. Opting new machineries that adheres to the following requirements: Liquor ratio that is low-or-ultra-low, Complete in process separation of bath from substrate, Mechanism that involves smooth internal separation of process liquor, Mechanical liquor extraction that brings the carry-over to minimum, and Reduced cycle duration. Replacement of conventional overflow-flood rinsing method with methods like drain and fill or other methods (for example smart rinsing for fabric). Proper re-use of rinsed water for the next dyeing session. Re-use of the dye bath if technical considerations allows.

2) Continuous dyeing processes

The working of a continuous dyeing process is described here. The textile substrates are feeded continuously into a dye range. The speeds can vary between 50 to 250 meters per minute. According to Industry estimates Continuous dyeing is a popular dyeing method and accounts for around 60% of total yardage of the products that are dyed. A Continuous dyeing process typically consists the following. Dye application, dye fixation with heat or chemicals and finally washing. Continuous dyeing has been found to be most suitable for woven fabrics. Mostly continuous dye ranges are designed for dyeing blends of polyester and cotton. The step of padding plays a key role in the operation of continuous dyeing. Sometimes Nylon carpets are also dyed in continuous processes, but the design ranges for them is unlike that for flat fabrics. Warps are also dyed in continuous process. Very good examples of such warp dyeing are long chain warp dyeing and slasher dyeing using indigo. A continuous dye range has been found useful and economically sustainable for dyeing long runs of a given shade. One important factor that separates continuous dyeing from batch dyeing is the tolerance factor for color variation. That is more for continuous dyeing as compared to batch dyeing. This is so because of two reasons a) the speed of the process. b) presence of a large number of process variables which affects dye application. The process that is illustrated below is designed for dyeing of blended fabric of polyester and cotton.

Some of the popular methods in continuous dyeing process are Pad-steam, Wet-steam, thermosol dyeing, TAK dyeing, space dyeing, and pad-steam dyeing long chain warp dyeing etc. Continuous dyeing is most suitable for woven fabrics. Most continuous dye ranges a r e designed for dyeing blends of polyester and cotton. Nylon carpets a r e sometimes dyed i n continuous porcesses but the design of the range for continuous dyeing of carpet is much different than t h a t for flat fabrics. Warps can also be dyed in continuous processes. Examples of warp dyeing a r e slasher dyeing and long chain warp dyeing using indigo.

Optimizing the Continuous dyeing Process

Continuous and to some extent semi-continuous dyeing processes both are less prone to water consumption than batch dyeing, but results in high concentration of residues. If some strict control measures are taken up it is possible to reduce this losses of concentrated liquor. The following steps may prove useful. Applying low add-on liquor application systems along with minimising of volume capacity of the dip through when pad dyeing techniques are in operation. Adoption of latest dispensing systems, where the chemicals get dispensed on-line as separate streams. They gets mixed only at the moment just before the delivery to the applicator. Using any of the following systems for dosing of the padding liquor. Important to know that it should be strictly according to the measurement of the pick up: A proper measurement of the dyeing liquor quantity consumption in comparison to the processed fabric. The resulting values thus obtained are processed automatically and applied in preparing the next comparable batch.

Application of the technique of rapid batch dyeing. Here the dyestuff solution is prepared just in time, with steps that are based on on-line measurement of the pick-up. This proves better than those dyestuffs that are kept prepared already for the whole batch before the commencement of the dyeing batch. To increase washing efficiency based on the proven principles like reduction of carry-over and counter-current washing

3) Semi continuous dyeing process

In the process of semi-continuous dyeing that consists of pad-batch, pad-jig, pad-roll the fabric is first impregnated with the dye-liquor in, what is called a padding machine. Then it is subjected to batch wise treatment in a jigger. It could also be stored with a slow rotation for many hours. In the pad-batch this treatment is done at room temperature while in pad-roll it is done at increased temperature by employing a heating chamber. This helps in fixation of the dyes on to the fiber. After this fixation process, the material in full width is thoroughly cleansed and rinsed in continuous washing machines. There is only one point of difference between Continuous and semi-continuous dyeing process is that in semi-continuous dyeing, the dye is applied continuously by a padding. The fixation and washing remaining discontinuous. Liquor Ratio in semi-continuous dyeing is not of much importance and is not taken as a parameter. One of the widely used techniques for semi-continuous dyeing process is the Pad Batch Dyeing a schematic diagram is given here for the semi-continuous dyeing process.

The following table shows some of the important machineries for semi-continuous and continuous dyeing processes.

Make up

Process Equipment Rope Continous Semi Continous Padding Machine for Piece in rope form Pad batch (or carp- Padding Machine+ Washing o-roll for carpet) Machine Pad batch (or carp- Padding Machine+ Washing

Woven and Knitted Fabric, tufted carpet Open width

o-roll for carpet) Pad -jig Pad stream Continous Pad Dry

Machine Padding Machine+ Jigger+ Washing Machine Padding Machine+ Steamer+ Washing Machine Padding Machine+ Stenter frame+ Washing Machine

Yarn Dyeing
When dyeing is done after the fiber has been spun into yarn, it is called Yarn dyeing. There are many forms of yarn dyeing- Skein (Hank) Dyeing, Package Dyeing, Warp-beam Dyeing,and Space Dyeing.

Skein (Hank) Dyeing

The yarns are loosely arranged in skeins or hanks. These are then hung over a rung and immersed in a dyebath in a large container. In this method, the colour penetration is the best and the yarns retain a softer, loftier feel.

Package Dyeing
The yarns are wound on spools, cones or similar units and these packages of yarn are stacked on perforated rods in a rack and then immersed in a tank. In the tank, the dye is forced outward from the rods under pressure through the spools and then back to the packages towards the center to penetrate the entire yarn as thoroughly as possible.

Warp-beam dyeing
It is similar to package dyeing but more economical. Here, yarn is wound on to a perforated warp beam, immersed in a tank and dyed under pressure.

Space Dyeing
In this method, the yarn is dyed at intervals along its length. For these two procedures- knit- deknit method and OPI Space-Dye Applicator- are adopted. In the first method, the yarn is knitted on either a circular or flatbed knitting machine and the knitted cloth is then dyed and subsequently it

is deknitted. Since the dye does not readily penetrate the areas of the yarn where it crosses itself, alternated dyed and undyed spaces appear. The OPI Space-Dye Applicator technique produces multi coloured space- dyed yarns. The yarns are dyed intermittently as they run at high speeds of upto 1000 yards (900 m) per minute through spaced dyebaths with continuous subjection to shock waves produced by compressed air assuming supersonic velocities.

Styles and techniques of dyeing

Resist dyeing
Resist-dyeing is a term for a number of traditional methods of dyeing textiles with patterns. Methods are used to "resist" or prevent the dye from reaching all the cloth, thereby creating a pattern and ground. The most common forms use wax, some type of paste, or a mechanical resist that manipulates the cloth such as tying or stitching. Another form of resist involves using a chemical agent in a specific type of dye that will repel another type of dye printed over the top. The most well-known varieties today include tie-dye and batik.

Basic methods Wax or paste: melted wax or some form of paste is applied to cloth before being dipped in dye. Wherever the wax has seeped through the fabric, the dye will not penetrate. Sometimes several colors are used, with a series of dyeing, drying and waxing steps. The wax may also be applied to another piece of cloth to make a stencil, which is then placed over the cloth, and dye applied to the assembly; this is known as resist printing.

Paper stencils may also be used; another type of resist printing. The same method is used in art in printmaking, in one form of screenprinting. Mechanical: the cloth is tied, stitched, or clamped using clothespegs or wooden blocks to shield areas of the fabric. Chemical: a modern textile printing method, commonly achieved using two different classes of fiber reactive dyes, one of which must be of the vinyl sulfone type. A chemical-resisting agent is combined with dye Type A, and printed using the screenprint method and allowed to dry. A second dye, Type B, is then printed overtop. The resist agent in Type A chemically prevents Type B from reacting with the fabric, resulting in a crisp pattern/ground relationship.

Tie-dye
Tie-dye is a process of resist dyeing textiles or clothing which is made from knit or woven fabric, usually cotton; typically using bright colors. It is a modern version of traditional dyeing methods used in many cultures throughout the world. "Tie-dye" can also describe the resulting pattern or an item which features this pattern. Tie-dyeing became fashionable in the West in the late 1960s and early 1970s as part of hippie style. Tie-dyeing is accomplished by folding the material into a pattern, and binding it with string or rubber bands. Dye is then applied to only parts of the material. The ties prevent the entire material from being dyed. Designs are formed by applying different colors of dyes to different sections of the wet fabric. A wet t-shirt is much easier to use rather than just dyeing on a dry t-shirt. Once complete, the material is rinsed, and the dye is set.

Mudmee tie-dye Mudmee tie-dye is mainly created in Thailand and neighboring part of Laos. It uses different shapes and colors than other types of tie-dye, and the colors are, in general, more subdued. Another difference is that the base color is black.

Fold and patterns Below is a list of common modern tie-dyeing folds and patterns. Spiral Spiral patterns are created by gathering a small section,usually with a clothes pin or a kitchen fork, in the middle of the fabric and slowly rotating the piece creating pleats of fabric arranged in swirls around a central point. It is then gathered into a flat round bundle and the different wedges of the circular bundle are usually dyed different colors to create a greater spiral effect. V The 'V' shape is achieved by folding a shirt in half vertically, then a line is drawn diagonally from the shoulder area down to the center fold of the shirt. The fabric is then accordingly folded along the line and bound into one or more areas to which the dye is applied. This will show in the shape of a 'V'. Random This category can hold several different patterns, the majority of which have nothing to do with each other; they can be combinations or they can be as chaotic as bundling the item to be dyed. Random circles This effect is made by tying knots with string or elastic bands in different places. The more fabric that is tied, the larger the circles.

Batik
Batik is a cloth that traditionally uses a manual wax-resist dyeingtechnique. Batik or fabrics with the traditional batik patterns are found in Indonesia, Japan, China, Azerbaijan, India, Sri Lanka, Egypt, Nigeria, Senegal, Malaysia and Singapore Javanese traditional batik, especially from Yogyakarta and Surakarta, has notable meanings rooted to the Javanese conceptualization of the universe. Traditional colours include indigo, dark brown, and white, which represent the three major Hindu Gods (Brahm, Visnu, and iva). This is related to the fact that natural dyes are most commonly available in indigo and brown. Certain patterns can only be worn by nobility; traditionally, wider stripes or wavy lines of greater width indicated higher rank. Consequently, during Javanese ceremonies, one could determine the royal lineage of a person by the cloth he or she was wearing.

Types and Variations of Batik Javanese Kraton Batik (Javanese court Batik)
Javanese kraton (court) Batik is the oldest batik tradition known in Java. This type of batik has earthy color tones such as black, brown, and dark yellow (sogan), sometimes against a white background. The motifs of traditional court batik have symbolic meanings. Some designs are restricted: larger motifs can only be worn by royalty; and certain motifs are not suitable for women, or for specific occasions (e.g., weddings).

The palace courts (keratonan) in two cities in central Java are known for preserving and fostering batik traditions:

Surakarta (Solo City) Batik. Traditional Surakarta court batik is preserved and fostered by the Susuhunan and Mangkunegaran courts. The main areas that produce Solo batik are

the Laweyan and Kauman districts of the city. Solo batik typically has sogan as the background color. PasarKlewer near the Susuhunan palace is a retail trade center.

Yogyakarta Batik. Traditional Yogya batik is preserved and fostered by the Yogyakarta Sultanate and the Pakualaman court. Usually Yogya Batik has white as the background color. Fine batik is produced at Kampung Taman district. Beringharjo market near Malioboro street is well known as a retail batik trade center in Yogyakarta.

Pesisir Batik (Coastal Batik)

Pesisir batik is created and produced by several areas on the northern coast of Java and on Madura. As a consequence of maritime trading, the Pesisir batik tradition was more open to foreign influences in textile design, coloring, and motifs, in contrast to inland batik, which was relatively independent of outside influences. For example, Pesisir batik utilizes vivid colors and Chinese motifs such as clouds, phoenix, dragon, qilin, lotus, peony, and floral patterns.

Pekalongan Batik. The most famous Pesisir Batik production area is the town of Pekalongan in Central Java province. Batik Pekalongan was influenced by both DutchEuropean and Chinese motifs, for example thebuketan motifs was influenced by European flower bouquet.

Cirebon Batik. Also known as Trusmi Batik because that is the primary production area. The most well known Cirebon batik motif is megamendung (rain cloud) that was used in the former Cirebon Kraton. This cloud motif shows Chinese influence.

Cirebon Batik depicting sea creatures

Lasem Batik. Lasem batik is characterized by a bright red color called abanggetihpithik (chicken blood red). Batik Lasem is heavily influenced by Chinese culture.

Tuban Batik. Batik gedog is the speciality of TubanBatik, the batik was created from handmade tenun (woven) fabrics. Madura Batik. Madurese Batik displays vibrant colors, such as yellow, red, and green. Madura unique motifs for example pucuktombak (spear tips), also various flora and fauna images.

Indonesian Batik from other areas

Java

Priangan Batik or Sundanese Batik is the term proposed to identify various batik cloths produced in the "Priangan" region, a cultural region in West Java and Northwest Java (Banten). Traditionally this type of batik is produced by Sundanese people in the several district of West Java such as Ciamis, Garut, anTasikmalaya; however it also encompasses Kuningan Batik which demonstrate Cirebon Batik influences, and also Banten Batik that developed quite independently and have its own unique motifs. The motifs of Priangan batik are visually naturalistic and strongly inspired by flora (flowers

and swirling plants) and fauna (birds especially peacock and butterfly). The variants and production centers of Priangan Batik are:

Ciamis Batik. Ciamis used to rival other leading batik industry centers in Java during early 20th century. Compared to other regions, Ciamis batik is stylistically less complex. The flora and fauna motifs known as ciamisan are drawn in black, white, and yellowish brown. Motifs are similar to coastal Cirebon Batik, but the thickness of coloring share the same styles as inland batik. The thick coloring of Ciamis batik is called sarian. Garut Batik. This type of batik is produced in the Garut district of West Java. Garutan batik can be identified by its distinctive colors, gumading (yellowish ivory), indigo, dark red, dark green, yellowish brown, and purple Tasikmalaya Batik. This type of batik is produced in the Tasikmalaya district, West Java. Tasikmalaya Batik has its own traditional motif such as umbrella. Center of Tasikmalaya Batik can be found in Ciroyom District about 2 km from city center of Tasikmalaya. Kuningan Batik. Banten Batik. This type of batik employs bright and soft pastel colors. It represents a revival of a lost art from the Sultanate of Banten, rediscovered through archaeological work during 2002-2004. Twelve motifs from locations such as Surosowan and several other places have been identified.

Java Hokokai Batik. This type is characterized by flowers in a garden surrounded by butterflies. The long fabrics usually is done in two pattern called pagi/sore (Indonesian: morning and afternoon) refer to two type of motifs in one sheet of fabric, as the solution of cotton fabrics scarcity during war time.

Bali

Balinese Batik. As Balinese Hindu culture does not restrict the depiction of images, the Balinese have traditionally focused more on sculpture and painting than on textiles. Balinese batik was influenced by neighbouring Javanese Batik and is relatively recent compared to the latter island, having been stimulated by the tourism industry and consequent rising demand for souvenirs (since the early 20th century). In addition to the

traditional wax-resist dye technique and industrial techniques such as the stamp (cap) and painting, Balinese batik sometimes utilizes ikat (tie dye). Balinese batik is characterized by bright and vibrant colors, which the tie dye technique blends into a smooth gradation of color with many shades. Sumatra

Jambi Batik. Trade relations between the Melayu Kingdom in Jambi and Javanese coastal cities have thrived since the 13th century. Therefore, the northern coastal areas of Java (Cirebon, Lasem, Tuban, and Madura) probably influenced Jambi in regard to batik. In 1875, Haji Mahibat from Central Java revived the declining batik industry in Jambi. The village of MudungLaut in Pelayangan district is known for producing Jambi batik. This Jambi batik, as well as Javanese batik, influenced the batik craft in the Malay peninsula. Minangkabau Batik. Minangkabau ethnic also have batik called as Batiak Tanah Liek (Clay Batik). They use clay as dye for batik. The fabric was immersed in clay for more than 1 day to make permanent color and after that they design the motif of animal and flora Aceh Batik. Palembang Batik. Riau Batik.

Shibori
Shiboriis a Japanese term for several methods of dyeing cloth with a pattern by binding, stitching, folding, twisting, compressing it, or capping. Some of these methods are known in the West as tie-dye. Techniques There is an infinite number of ways one can bind, stitch, fold, twist, or compress cloth for shibori, and each way results in very different patterns. Each method is used to achieve a certain result, but each method is also used to work in harmony with the type of cloth used. Therefore, the technique used in shibori depends not only on the desired pattern, but the characteristics of the cloth being dyed. Also, different techniques can be used in conjunction with one another to achieve even more elaborate results.

Ne-makishibori example

Kanokoshibori Kanokoshibori is what is commonly thought of in the West as tie-dye. It involves binding certain sections of the cloth to achieve the desired pattern. Traditional shibori requires the use of thread for binding. The pattern achieved depends on how tightly the cloth is bound and where the cloth is bound. If random sections of the cloth are bound, the result will be a pattern of random circles. If the cloth is first folded then bound, the resulting circles will be in a pattern depending on the fold used. Miura shibori Miura shibori is also known as looped binding. It involves taking a hooked needle and plucking sections of the cloth. Then a thread is looped around each section twice. The thread is not knotted; tension is the only thing that holds the sections in place. The resulting dyed cloth is a water-like design. Because no knot is used, miureashibori is very easy to bind and unbind. Therefore, this technique is very often used. Kumoshibori Kumoshibori is a pleated and bound resist. This technique involves pleating sections of the cloth very finely and evenly. Then the cloth is bound in very close sections. The result is a very specific spider-like design. This technique is very precise to produce this specific design. Nui shibori Nui shibori includes stitched shibori. A simple running stitch is used on the cloth then pulled tight to gather the cloth. The thread must be pulled very tight to work, and a wooden dowel must often be used to pull it tight enough. Each thread is secured by knotting before being dyed.

This technique allows for greater control of the pattern and greater variety of pattern, but it is much more time consuming. Arashishibori Arashishibori is also known as pole-wrapping shibori. The cloth is wrapped on a diagonal around a pole. Then the cloth is very tightly bound by wrapping thread up and down the pole. Next, the cloth is scrunched on the pole. The result is a pleated cloth with a design on a diagonal. "Arashi" is the Japanese word for storm. The patterns are always on a diagonal in arashishibori which suggest the driving rain of a heavy storm. Itajimeshibori Itajimeshibori is a shaped-resist technique. Traditionally, the cloth is sandwiched between two pieces of wood, which are held in place with string. More modern textile artists can be found using shapes cut from acrylic or plexiglass and holding the shapes with C-clamps. The shapes prevent the dye from penetrating the fabric they cover.

Ikkat
Ikat, or Ikkat, is a dyeing technique used to pattern textiles that employs a resist dyeing process similar to tie-dye on either the warp or weft fibres. Bindings, which resist dye penetration, are applied to the threads in the desired patterns and the threads are dyed. Alteration of the bindings and the dyeing of more than one color produce elaborate, multicolored patterns. When all of the dyeing is finished the bindings are removed and the threads are ready to be woven into cloth. The defining characteristic of ikat is the dyeing of patterns, by means of bindings, into the threads before cloth construction, the weaving of the fabric, takes place. Herein lies the difference between ikat and tie-dye. In tie-dye the fabric is woven first and the resist bindings are then applied to the fabric which is dyed. In warp ikat the patterns are clearly visible in the warp threads on the loom even before the plain colored weft is introduced to produce the fabric. In weft ikat it is the weaving or weft thread that carries the dyed patterns which only appear as the weaving proceeds. In weft ikat the weaving proceeds much slower than in warp ikat as the passes of the weft must be carefully adjusted to maintain the clarity of the patterns.

Double Ikat is where both warp and the weft are resist-dyed prior to stringing on the loom. Traditionally, and still commonly, a back-strap loom is used, though any variant or modern loom may be used. Warp ikat Ikat created by dyeing the warp are the more simple to make. First the material, be it cotton, silk, wool or other, is tied into bundles. The bundles may be covered with wax (as per batik), wrapped tightly with thread or some other dye-resistant material- to prevent unwanted dye permeation.

Weft ikat Weft ikat uses resist-dye for the weft alone. The variance in colour of the weft means precisely delineated patterns are more difficult to weave. As the weft is commonly a continuous strand aberrations or variation in colouration are cumulative. Weft ikat are commonly employed where pattern precision is of less aesthetic concern than the overall resultant fabric. Some patterns become transformed by the weaving process into irregular and erratic designs. Guatemalan ikat is well-noted for its beautiful "blurs" in colouration.

Oshima Oshimaikat is a uniquely Japanese ikat. In Oshima, the warp and weft threads are both used as warp to weave stiff fabric, upon which the thread for the ikat weaving is spot-dyed. Then the mats are unraveled and the dyed thread is woven into oshima cloth.

Other variants
Cambodian The Cambodian ikat is a weft ikat woven of silk on a multi-shaft loom with an uneven twill weave which results in the weft threads showing more prominently on the front of the fabric than the back Thai In Thailand, the local ikat type of woven cloth is known as Matmi (also spelt 'Mudmee' or 'Mudmi').] Traditional Mudmi cloth was woven for daily use among the nobility. Other uses included ceremonial costumes. Warp ikat in cotton is also produced by the Karen and Lawa tribal peoples in northern Thailand. South & Central American Ikat patterns are common among the Andes peoples, and native people of Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Guatemala, Mexico, Peru, and Venezuela. The famous Mapuche shawl or poncho of the "Huaso" cowboys of Chile are one of the most famous to the Westerner.

Dyeing machinery
Textile fibers such as cotton,wooletc are dyed in various forms such as loose cotton,sliver yarn and cloth,the largest amount dyed being in the cloth form since it is the most convenient and the cheapest of the processes.Inaddition,it requires less labour and less chemicals.The dyeing of different forms of cotton requires different forms of machinery,since the method of handling the material to be dyed varies from form to form.In the early dyes ,dyeing was carried out in simple ways and it is only during the last 60 to 70 years that a great development in the quantity and quality of dyeing has been achieved.In many of the cases batch processes of dyeing have been replaced by continous process,thereby increasing the production tremendously.This has been achieved to such an extent that it is not possible to operate this process economically unless the production is very large.Some of the dyeing machines developed earlier have become obsolete.

Dyeing of loose cotton

Dyeing of loose cotton becomes necessary when mixed yarns are needed ..Dyeing of loose cotton is rendered expensive since the fibers tend to get matted and subsequently get formed in the preparatory process before spinning.The staple length of the fibre is also decreased,incurring a loss; the waste linters cannot be used in any other cellulose industry as the waste linters are colored.Further, valuable dyes get wasted as dyed linters.The natural oils and fats present in cotton offer considerable resistant to the uniform dyeing of cotton.Theses oils and fats should not be removed from cotton as there presence is necessary during spinning. However, dyeing of loose cotton doesnot always need special appliances, the operation being frequently done in vats or boilers,in which the material is turned by poles or forks.Circulation of dye liquor through the pact fibers is finding more and more favour.The uneven dyeing caused by matting of fiber is not noticeable after carding and combing, so that as long as the depth of shade of the final yarn is the right one, uneven dyeing of the fibers would not be a great disadvantage. In short, the disadvantages of loose cotton dyeing are more than balanced by the advantages.One of the greatest advantages of loose cotton dyeing is the ease of penetration of the dye liquor into the individual fibers.The tight weave of the fabric and the twist of the yarn resistance to the even dyeing with good penetration n the case of individual fibres.This does not exist in loose cotton dyeing.Any unevenness of the shade is randomist during the various processes of spinning.

Principles of dyeing machine construction

Dyeing is mostly a physico-chemical process and in some cases the chemical processes as well and involves essentially a transport phenomenon, in which the dye molecule leaves one medium such as water, emulsion or solvent enters the fiber substance. The success of

practical dyeing depends on the uniform application of the dyes or mixtures of dyes, coupled with maximum dye utilization in a reasonable time so as to make it economically feasible.in order to achieve this four forms of energy are normally employed 1) Chemical, 2) thermal(high temp), 3)mechanical and 4) the fluid. The conventional dyeing machines re-constructed on the basic principle of either the movement of material to be dyed in an essentially stationary dye liquor as in jigger, padding mangle or winch,or the movement or circulation of dye liquor through stationary package of the material as in cheese dyeing or beam dyeing machines. In winch or jigger dyeing, the chemical ,thermal and mechanical energies can be used with advantage but the transport energy of the fabric is not large.The dye bath is stagnant except for the movement created by the traveling fabric and the liquor dropping from it .after jet-dyeing machines were introduced, substantial kinetic energy in the form of rapidly moving fluid, the fourh form of energy mentioned above is employed in addition to the mechanical energy in the form of fabric transport.As the result, the dyeing process is tremendously accelerated.The high rate of re-circulation of the dye liquor and the extreme penetration and the interchange of the dyestuff from the bath into the fabric ensure level dyeing.

Hand dyeing
The dyeing of loose cotton by hand can be carried out in the simplest possible appliances.This may be done in vats or circular tubes made of either wood or copper.The cotton being dyed may be stirred in the vat either with poles or with rakes fixed to a rotating shaft, care being taken to see that every part of the lot is turned over and over and that the mass of the fiber is adequately open to minimize matting.In the later machines, The dye vats and topa are largely replaced by machines in which the opening up of the fibers mass is done mechanically. Some of the earlier types of dyeing machines are described below :

1) Jagenburg machine
One of the earliest dyeing machine is one designed by jagenburg.This is the combination of dyeing by earlier methods and some form of mechanization. The machine consists essential of a metal rectangular or conical shape vat, fixed on supports and heated from beneath.A shift with paddles radiating from the centre and fixed at 90 degree to each other is provided in the vat and is rotated by hand.Due to mechanization of such machines high rate of production of dyed cotton may be achieved.

The advantage of this type of machine include the following : 1) the individual fibers are dyed, 2) the whole lot is uniformly dyed, 3) The frictional force exerted on the cotton fibers during working produce some luster in the fibers. 4) The cost of dyeing is low. 5) Special effects can be produced by blending dyed and undyed fibers before spinning. The disadvantages of this method of dyeing include the following : 1) cotton gets entangled and matted during dyeing and it is difficult to set it right,thereby causing some loss of fibers as well as dyes. 2) Only a limited number of dyes can be dyed.Example,only those dyes having very high solubility in water should be used. 3) During the dyeing process, the natural oils and waxes present in cotton fibers are removed, making the cotton brittle.Hence it is necessary to spray aqueous emulsions of oil o the dyed fibres prior to spinning. 4) The spinning waste cannot be used in other cellulose industries because of the presence of the dyes in the fibers.

2) Clauder-Weldon machine
This machine consists of a through with a sloping side at one side and contains the dye solution at the required temperature. A cylindrical perforated drum of copper is provided

in the trough.The flanges at the end of the drum carry a shaft.The drum is divided into four

compartments with perforated partitions and each f the compartment is provided with a manhole for filling and removing the material.Protruding fingers are provided on the shaft to prevent slippage of cotton and to keep the cotton fibers in the open state.The heated dye liquor rushes ito the drum.The movement of the material is carried out by the rotation of that drum, while the agitation of liquor also takes place.Thedum is rotated by spur gear.Soaping, wasinhg and other operations may be carried out in this machne. These machines are built in various sizes from 100lb to 1 ton. Motors are needed to run these machines.The floor space for 100lb capacity machine is 12X 11 and a total height of 8.

3) Simplex machine
This machine essentially consists of a suitably supported rectangular trough.Somewhere near the bottom of the trough a perforated plate is provided and two or more hooks are attached to the plate.A steam pipe is placed below the perforated plate.Loose cotton is packed in the trough above the false bottom and another perforated plate is on the top of he packed material to be dyed.The lower perforated pate can be given an up and down motion by means of ropes

and an eccentric pulley, thereby compressing and releasing the packed cotton alternately.This produces the required movement of the material in the dye liquor contained in the trough.The liquor is heated by steam.This machine is well suited for dyeing raw wool.

4) Rhodes machine
The machine consists of a rectangular trough,divided into three compartments by two plate.The lower portion of this late and the bottom of the middle compartment are also perforated.Steam pipes are provided at the bottom of the trough.Cotton is packed in the middle compartment and kept in position by another perforated plate at the top, where it

is the liquor falls on the top of the middle compartment, ensuring continous circulation of the dye liquors.The machine also is well suited for dyeing raw wool.Consumption of steam,water,chemical is very large in this machine, while simplicity of operation and the low cost f construction of the plant are its main advantages.This machine doesnot requires a pump for the circulation of the dye liqour through the packed fibers.However, there is a limit to the rate of circulation of the liquor.

5) Dreze machine
This machine consist of a cylindrical cage with a false bottom and provided with acentral puffer tube.A steam injector system is provided in the bottom.The material to be dyed is packed in the cage which is then lowered into the outer vessel.The circulation and the hating of the dye liquor are affected by injecting live seam, which throws the liquor

upward into the central puffer tube and later against metal sealed, hence it percolates through the packed material then through the false bottom and is again thrown by injector. This machine is also suited for dyeing wool.If cotton is packed in the machine, it offers considerableresistance to the circulation of the dye liquor.

6) Schmidts machine
This machine consists of two cylindrical vats one being mounted on the other.The outer vat holds the dye liquor and the inner,the material to be dyed.The inner vat is held in position and is opened at the top and has a false bottom which allows the dye liquor to pass through.Duringdyeing,the material packed in the inner vat is enclosed above and belw by copper wires to prevent it from being displaced by the movement of the outer vat. A steam coil is fixed at the bottom of outer vat.The liquor passes around the coil and the temperature of the liquor and that of the material being dyed are practically the same.

This is a definite advantage of this machine over others described so far.A paddle wheel is placed at the centre of the vats and is worked by an electric motors.The liquor is made to rise up by the rotation of the paddle and on reaching the top rim of the inner vat, it gets poored over the material contained in it. When the liquor is forced upward in the space between the two vats a partial vaccum is created at the bottom of the vats,so that the liquor pouring over the material being dyed forces its way through he bottom and the circulation repeats.

7) Hussong loose cotton dyeing machine

This machine is similar in principle Schmidts machine except that in this machine the paddle is placed in the side compartment instead at the centre.The solution rises in the side compartment and gets poured over the material, through which it percolates

down and collects at the bottom compartment from where it is sucked and again forced up the side compartment.

The main feature of the later dyeing machine are the compactness of packing of the material and the use of powerful pumps for the efficient circulation of the dye liquor through the package.The compactly packed marterials offers considerable resistance to the floor of the liquor through the material and as a result uniformity of dyeing suffers.Mechanical agitation of the liquor increase the temperature and the control of the dyeing condition is rendered difficult.

8) Obermaier machine
This machine consists of a cylindrical perforated carrier of stainless steel with asolid bottom and when packed with loose fibres to be dyed and lowered into an outer cylindrical dye vessel called container, fits into a seating of the later and then connected to acentrifugal pump by suitable piping.A solid lid fits on to the carrier and is provided with a hook.The carrier is also provided with a perforated central tube.The cotton is first packed in the carrier by compressing as uniformly as possible and is placed in the dye-vessel by an overhead crane. The dye liquor at the proper concentration and temperature is forced by the pump through the central perforated tube.

The solution comes out of the carrier by forcing its way through the packed columns of fibers and is taken out and fed back into the central tube. The capacity of such machines varies from 100lb to ton.By having a spare carrier this machine may be made semi-continuos by the loading the sphere carrier whileone lot is being dyed and inserting this carrier after the container. A severe criticism had been leveled against this machine of the dye liquor from inside out.The concentrated dye liquor emerging from the central perforated tubes comes into contact with a smaller amount of the fibers then when it leaves the carrier.

9) Long close loose cotton dyeing machine

This machine has the same features of the Obermeirmachine in that both contain a carrier and a container.However, the long close carrier is of a conical shape instead of the cylindrical one of the other.The conical carrier has a perforated base and aperforated cover.The carrier can be fitted in the outer container and when in position makes a leak proof joint with he conical seating provided for the purpose.Cotton is packed in the container and is placed in position the dye liquor circulated by the centrifugal pump.Thus concentrated dye liquor comes into contact.

Steam coils are provided it the outer container for heating the dye liquor.After dyeing the dye bath is drained and water is circulated towash the material and h carrier lifted by a crane and kept on a stand.It is then turned in a vertical lain to dump the cotton out of the carrier.As in the other machine, by having a sphere carrier the dyeing process can be made semicontinuous.

Machines used for batch dyeing

Becks Atmospheric becks can be used for dyeing at temperatures up to 1OO C. Pressurizedbecks are used for dyeing at temperatures higher than 1OO C.dye beck consists of a reservoir or trough which contains the dyebath and a reel to move the loop of fabric through the dye formulation. The liquor to goods ratio used in becks is typically 15:l or higher although becks using ratios as low as 4:l are available.The dye beck is sometimes called a winch because of the winch mechanism used to move the fabric. The ends of the fabric piece to be dyed are sewn together to make a continuous loop. The reel pulls the fabric out of the dye liquor in the trough and over an idler roll. After leaving the reel, the fabricslidesdown the back wall of the beck and gradually works its way from the back toward the front of the machine.Several loops of fabric of about the same length are dyed simultaneously. The individual loops are separated from one another by a dividing device called the peg rail extending the width of the machine.The peg rail contains smooth pegs spaced several centimeters apart to provide an opening through which the fabric rope can pass. Loops of fabric are typically 50 to 100 meters long depending on the weight of the fabric and other factors. The number of loops processed depends on the size of a particular machineandmayvary from only one loop in a laboratory or sample machine to 50 or more loops in a large production machine.The trough is slanted at its rear to allow the fabric layers to slide down into the dye liquor and move

gradually toward the front of the machine. A deep trough and steep sloping back works well for fabrics which do not crease easily while a shallower more gradual slope helps to prevent creasing. The idler roll presses some of the excess dye liquor from the fabric, improving exchange of the liquid in the fabric with formulation in the trough.Chemicals and dyes used in the dyeing are added to a compartment at the front of the beck. The divider separating the compartment from the trough is perforated, allowing the added chemicals to gradually become mixed with the liquor in the trough.Live steam is injected into the compartment to heat the liquor to the required temperature. The injection of steam vigorously agitates the compartment and aids in mixing the dyes and chemicals into the dye liquor. The steam injected into the beck condenses in the liquor so some dilution of the dye liquor must be tolerated.The greatest advantages of becks are simplicity, versatility and relatively low price. Becks subject fabrics to relatively low lengthwise tension and encourage the development of yarn crimp and fabric bulk. However, becks tend to use large amounts of water, chemicals and energy.Becks can cause abrasion, creasing and distortion of some fabrics.Acontinuous strand can bedyed instead of the usual multiple loops of fabric if the beck has this capability. In this system, a single long strand of fabric is gradually spiraled through the dye formulation from one side of the beck to the other. Thismethod decreases the requirements formaterial handling, reduces waste andeliminates the necessity for trimming andsewing of individual loops.

Jet Dyeing
Jet dyeing machines resemble becks in that a continuous loop of fabric is circulated through the machine. However, the cloth transport mechanism is dramatically different in these two types of machines. A high speed jet of dye liquid created by a venturi transports the fabric through the cloth guide tube of the jet machine. A jet machine has a cloth guide tube for each loop of fabric being processed.Apowerful pump circulates the liquor through a heat exchanger outside of the main vessel and back into the jet machine. The fabric travels at high velocity of 200-800 meters per minute while it is in the cloth guide tube. The fabric leaving the cloth guide tube enters a larger capacity cloth chamber and gradually advances back toward the cloth guide tube. Pressurizing a jet dyeing machine provides for high temperaturedyeingcapability.High temperature jet machines are especially suitable for delicate fabrics made of texturized polyester. Some atmospheric machines designed for dyeing temperatures up to lOOC also use the jet circulation principle. Jet dyeing machines provide the following advantages compared to atmospheric becks for dyeing fabrics made from texturized polyester. - Vigorous agitation of fabric and dye formulation in the cloth tube increases the dyeing rate and uniformity. - Rapid circulation of fabric through the machine minimizes creasing because the fabric is not held in any one configuration very long. - Lengthwise tension on the fabric is low so the fabric develops bulk and fullness of handle.

Dyeing at high temperature of about130C gives rapid dyeing, improved dyeutilization, improved fastness propertiesand makes possible the elimination ofcarriers required when dyeing at lowertemperatures.The lower liquor ratio used in jetdyeing allows shorter dye cycles and saveschemicals and energy.

Some disadvantages of jet dyeing machinescompared to becks are as follows: - Capital and maintenance costs arehigher. - Limited accessibility makes cleaningbetween dyeings and sampling for colorduring the dye cycle difficult. - The jet action tends to make formulationsfoam in partially flooded jet machines. - The jet action may damage the surfaceofcertain types of fabrics. Jet dyeing machinery evolved steadilyafter invention of the machine in 1961.The first machines were partially flooded.Fully flooded machines keep the fabriccompletely submerged during the dyecycle. This prevents the formation oflongitudinal creases which occur when thefabric is lifted from the bath in a partiallyflooded machine. Fully flooding the machine also prevents formation of foam. The so-called soft Row machines use the same principle of a transport tube as a jet machine where the fabric is transported in a stream of dye liquor. However, transportof the fabric in soft flow jet machines is assisted by a driven lifter reel. These machines either eliminate the high velocity jet or use a jet having lower velocity than that used on conventional jet dye machines. The soft flow machines are more gentle on the fabric than conventional.

Jigs A jig consists of a trough for the dye or chemical formulation.The fabric from a roll on one side of the machine is run through the formulation in the trough and wound on a roll on the opposite side of the jig. When the second roll is full, the drive is reversed, and the fabric is transfered through the formulation back to the first roll. Live steam injected into the bottom ofthe trough through a perforated pipe across the width of the jig heats the formulation. Closed coils containing high pressure steam can also be used to heat a jig. Live steam heats the formulation faster than closed coils but dilutes the formulation. Automatic devices control temperature and reverse the direction of the fabric when required on modern jigs.

A dye jig is normally used for dyeing at pressure of one atmosphere although pressurized, high temperature jigs have been made. Covering the top of a jig minimizes heat loss to the atmosphere, keeps the temperature uniform on all parts of the fabric and minimizes exposure of the formulation to air. Minimizing exposure to air is most important when using sulfur and vat dyes since these dyes can be oxidized by atmospheric oxygen.Maximum batch size on a jig may be up to several thousand meters of fabric. Jigs exert considerable lengthwise tension on the fabric and are, therefore, more suit able for woven than for knit fabrics. Since the fabric is handled in open width, a jig is very suitable for fabrics which crease if dyed in rope form. Package Dyeing The term package dyeing usually refers to dyeing of yarn which has been wound on perforated cores so that dye liquor can be forced through the package. Packages may be tubes, cheeses or cones. Cores for dye packages may be rigid stainless steel, plastic or paper. Plastic and papertypes are normally intended to be used only once while stainless steel cores can be reused indefinitely. Plastic and paper cores as well as stainless steel springs are used as compressible cores. These compressible cores allow more packages to be forced into the

dye vessel and increase the capacity of the machine. the yarn packages are placed on perforated spindles on a frame which fits into a pressure vessel where dyeing takes place. The dye vessel is cylindrical and has domed ends. The top cover, which must be removed for loading and unloading, is secured during dyeing by bolts or a sliding ring which can be quickly locked. Most package dyeing machines are capable of dyeing temperatures up to 135C. The number of packages may vary from as few as one in a laboratory machine to several hundred in a large production machine.

The dye formulation is pumped through the perforations in the spindles and package cores into the yarn. The flow of liquid can be either from inside-to-outside of the package or outside-in. Periodic reversal of the direction of flow improves uniformity of dyeing. A package dye machine has an expansion tank mounted alongside the dye vessel. The expansion tank accomodates theincreased volume of dyebath resulting from thermal expansion when the bath is heated. Chemical and dye adds are made to the vessel through the expansion tank. A heat exchanger using high pressure steam as the heat source heats the dye liquor in a package dye machine. The steam coils for heating the liquor are also used as cooling coils after the dye cycle is completed. Liquor ratio in a package dye machine is typically about 1O:l when the machine is fully loaded. Use of lower liquor ratio can save water, energy and chemicals. The liquor ratio can be lowered by only partially flooding the machine. If the liquor covers all of the packages but does not fill the top dome of the machine, the liquor ratio is only slightly lower than it is in a fully flooded machine. If only the base of the carrier is covered with dye solution, the liquor ratio may be as low as 4: 1. However, the direction of liquor flow can only be inside-out using this arrangement. High quality dyeings may be more difficult to achieve at very low liquor ratio in package dye machines.Raw stock, tow and other materials can be dyed using the same principles as package dyeing. A basket (cage) is nor-mally used to hold these materials during the dyeing.

Beam Dyeing The principles of beam dyeing are essentially identical to those of package dyeing. Either yarn or fabric can be beam dyed. The fabric or yarn is wound on a perforated beam. A beam machine can be designed to hold a single beam or multiple beams in a batch. Beam dyeing of warps is practical in producing patterned fabrics where the warp yarn will be one color and the filling will be another color. Paddle Machines And Rotary Drums Paddle machines and rotary drum machines can be used to dye textiles in many forms, but these two methods are used mostly to dye garments. Steam injection directly into the dyebath heats both of these types of machines.The paddle circulates the bath and garments around a perforated central island. Chemicals, water and steam for heat are added inside the perforated central island.

The overhead paddle machine is simply a vat with a paddle having blades the full widthof the machine. The blades dip a few centimcters into thevattostir the bath and push thegarments down, keeping them submerged in thedye liquor. A rotary drum machine is cylindrical vessel

slightly larger than its internal perforated drum which holds the material to be dyed. The perforated drum is divided into several chambers each having its own door through which it can be loaded and unloaded. Rotary drum machines are commonly used to dye hosiery. Tumblers Tumblers are very similar in principle to rotarydrum machines except that they are usually larger. They also resemble large commercial drycleaning machines. Tumblers have a perforated drum which rotates inside a larger vat which contains the dye or chemical formulation. The drumcan be divided into compartments to assist in agitating the garments,

or baffles around the periphery of the drum serve to the garments in the dye formulation. These machines extract some of the water by centrifugal action after completion of the dyeing. Tumblers are used for (prewashing) garments dyed with indigo. Modern machines of this type are usually equipped with automatic controls and some are designed to tilt forward to provide for easy loading and unloading of batchesof garments.

PARAMETER CONTROL IN BATCH DYEING

YARN DYEING Winding density should be even. Package density is checked before loading the package. First take circumference, then measure height and deduct the center portion of cone that is hollow. Then weigh it so you will get the density. For cotton the package density is taken as 0.3 gram/cc. Shape of the Cheese : Shape and size of the cheese should be same. Prior to process checking is done visually. Checking the angle of the winding: Angel should be 30-45 degree. As the angle increases the density decreases. Perforation of the spindles: Perforation of the spindles prior to mounting the spindle. It is visually assessed. Standard: No perforation mark. Necessary action : Wound butter paper or non woven textile. Polycarbide,and polyethylene spindles are only wound. Spring type are not wound.. MLR: MLR for conventional machine is 1:10. Fongs has reduced the MLR to 1:4. Standard: MLR varies from 1:6 to 1:12 and necessary action is adjusting the MLR as per therequirement. Pump pressure: Modern machine gives upto 6-7 Psi and old machines used to give 4psi. Take necessary action for smooth reversal flow of the liquor. Recipe Color and chemical: Prior to dyeing ensure confirmatory of standard recipe.

Color Dissolution: Prior to dyeing check color dissolution. Method of checking is spotting on filter paper. Standard: Complete dissolution of color, if partly color is getting dissolved then strain the solutionprior to dyeing. pH: Check with pH paper or pH meter. Standard: No standard it varies as per the dye class. Necessary action: By addition of acid or alkali. Temperature: Check with thermometer and adjust steam supply. Standard: No standard, it varies as per the class of dye. Time: During process, the method of checking is dyeing record. Entrap air: Entrapped air is checked prior to built up of the pressure. Method is by checking air vent valve. Standard: No entrap air and ensure complete air removal. Steam leakages: During process visual checking is done for no leakage in the pump and circulating valve. Necessary action: Trap or plug all leakages. Variation in Package density during process:

In case of cotton carry out pretreatment process with low alkali. In case of polyester texturised yarn dueto boiling treatment yarn shrinks, to avoid that either hold the batch at low temperature for longer timei.e 45-60min or adjusting density during winding i.e Wind at lower density so the density increases orbecome optimum after shrinking.

PARAMETER CONTROL IN BEAM DYEING MACHINES

Parameters for fabric preparation:
Uniform Whiteness, Degree of heat setting is checked by below method Method of testing: Iodine absorbency test. Oil free fabric is necessary. Necessary action: Uneven white fabric is taken for heat setting. Reheatset at higher temperature thenprevious.

Density of Fabric:
Particularly for Beam dyeing machine optimum density is 0.6gm/cc. (Density calculation as per packagedyeing ) Necessary action: To conform to uniform winding of fabric on a beam. Minimum 8 to 10 layer of wrapper cloth is the standard. If Polyester is more, than more layers ofwrapper cloth must be wound. Ensure proper length of wrapper cloth according to the width of thefabric to avoid perforation marks.

Overlap on beam:
During batching this precaution is to be taken that the Blend content or width of the selvedge should besame. Necessary action: Maintaining desired overlap. Air Entrap: Before taking the pressure in the beam, entrapped air is removed. Method of checking is overflow valve.

Necessary action: Circulating the liquor for 5-10 minutes in both the direction. Flow Reversal: Standard: During the flow reversal the pressure should not be less than (forward pressure of 4 Psi) Ifpressure is less then it then check the pump. Optimize the number of wrapper layers. Check amount ofwater in the beam machine, and ensure complete air removal. MLR: Beam dyeing MLR is 1:10 to 1:12.
NECESSARY ACTION:

Take optimum liquor ratio.

Vessel Pressure:During dyeing, pressure gauge reading on beam dyeing should be35-40psi.

JET DYEING MACHINE:

MLRs of Various Jet based Machines: Old Jet Rapid Jet Super Rapid Jet Soft flow 1:8 1:6 1:4-1:5 1:1-1:1.5

Over flow Air Flow Jet Pressure:

1:4-1:5 1:1

Jet pressure: 15-20 psi. Adjust jet pressure according to the quality.In case of soft flow dyeing machine pressure is very low from 3psi to 10psi. Because in this machinesfabric is moved mechanically and jets are used only to penetrate the dye liquor in fibres. Necessary action: Adjusting the jet pressure according to the quality. Recipe:

No standard for recipe it is as per the quality of fabric. pH: During dyeing it is checked by pH meter or pH paper, 4.5-5.5 is the standard. Necessary action: Adjust the concentration of acid buffer. Temperature: Standard: The standard is set during dyeing as per the requirement with the help of thermometer. Necessary action: Ensure uniform heating rate as per the dyeing program. Maintain uniform steampressure, and conform effective working of thermostat. Dyeing time: Dyeing time is kept as per the previous records in record book. Ensure desired holding time for thedyeing. Rapid jet takes 1 hour, old jet and beam take 2.5 hours, soft flow also takes 22.5 hours for completion of dyeing. Vessel Pressure: During dyeing, pressure gauge reading on jet should be 25psi, for soft flow it should be 20-25 psi. Soensure optimum pressure.

JIGGER DYEING MACHINE:

Fabric preparation:
Points to check: Absorbency, whiteness, ph of core fabric, creases of the fabric and the selvedges. Standard: Uniform whiteness, Ph must be neutral, and fabric should be crease free.

Necessary action: Give two acetic acid or formic acid wash. If the absorbency is not proper thenrescouring is to be done. If uniform whiteness is not there then segregate the fabric. If creases are therethen pass through the stenter to remove the creases.

Batching:
Standard : Knife cut batching (very even batching). If batching is not even, then segregate the fabric ordry the fabric on the stenter. During batching another precaution is that the expanders of the jigger mustwork properly.

Batch Size:
Indian machines are having batching capacity in kg but internationally, diameter of the batch is specified.

Measurement of the yardages of the fabric:

Standard: It is the maximum permissible limit. Maximum Limit: Do not permit to overload the fabric. Because the fabric may get overlapped. MLR: Jigger dyeing machine is 1:1 to 1:1.5. During colouration 1:1.5, during soaping 1:2, during soaping for overflow washing it is 1:5. Maintain constant water level for over flow washing. Prevent water and steamleakages.

Quality of the end cloth fabric:

Nonabsorbent like nylon, polyester, linen etc. Length and width of the end cloth needs to be checked.

Crease free fabric:

Creases are found near the selvedges. So it has to be removed immediately. Creases are formed inbetween the fabric due to the improper working of expanders.

Recipe:
Calculated according to the weight of the fabric and the quality of the fabric.

Colour Preparation:
Checked during the preparation of the colour. Check on the filter paper by spotting. Ensuring properdissolution of the colour. Strain the colour through bolting cloth prior to dyeing. This parameter is forconventional jigger machine. Use proper dissolution method in case of vat and sulphur, give sufficient time for dissolution.

Colour and Chemical Addition:

Importantly colour and chemically addition should be in even installments and not in odd installments. Use of splash board should be done during addition of any chemical to the jigger dyeing machine. Properstirring of the solution in the trough after every addition. All solid chemicals must be added by predissolving.

Concentration of Chemicals:
During dyeing optimum amount of chemicals should be used and there is no standard for it.

Temperature:
During dyeing with the help of the thermometer check the temperature and the standard oftemperature should be as per the class of the dye. Regulate the heat supply. Heat the solution during theend of the turn and not in between when an endis running.

pH:
Check pH during dyeing as per the class of the dye. Give optimum dose of alkali and acids in the trough.

Addition of colours for the correction of the shade:

Ensure that addition must be done in the jigger by draining half quantity of trough solution. The reasonis that the new dye requirement to set the shade right will be less as the dye

initially present hasreduced to half the quantity plus in addition there will be shift in equilibrium and hence dyeing will againstart and lead to shade correction.

After treatment:
In case of after treatment in sulphur dyeing i.e. after oxidation Sodium acetate and pine oil treatment isgiven to avoid bronziness and tendering. In case of Disperse dye Reduction Clearing is given. In case ofDirect dye dye-fixing treatment is given.

PARAMETERS CONTROL FOR SEMI-CONTINUOUS AND CONTINUOUS METHODS:

Fabric Preparation:
Check even absorbency and fabric should be crease free. For semi continuous the width of fabric is more important as it is rolled. Proper stitching of fabric is required. Heavy stitches should not be there. Fabric should be uniform and even in absorbency. Uneven width pieces must be segregated..

Nip Pressure:
In nip pressure, the padding roll and squeezing roll are to be checked. Method: Roller pressure is measured by taking % expression. Hardness of the roller is checked bydegree shore meter or by carbon expression test. Polishing of the soft roller is done to adjust thepressure. Proper working of hydraulic and pneumatic pressing device is checked for.

Threading of the fabrics:

Threading must be checked during drying, padding and soaping.

Expanders:
During dyeing, expanders are to be stretched. Proper working of ball bearing should be checked for proper and regular greasing and oiling should be done for proper working.

Guide Rollers:
During dyeing, ensure smooth working of guide rollers.

Colour Preparation:
Checked during the preparation of the colour. Check on the filter paper by spotting. Ensuring properdissolution of the colour. Strain the colour through bolting cloth prior to dyeing. This parameter is forconventional jigger machine. Use proper dissolution method in case of vat and sulphur, give sufficient time for dissolution.

pH:
Check pH during dyeing as per the class of the dye. Give optimum dose of alkali and acids in the trough.

Speed:
Speed is measured with dial speed meter. Maintain optimum speed for dyeing.

Dwell Time:
During dyeing, the dwell time is checked with the stop watch. Adjust the speed to get uniform dwelltime.

Temperature of drying chamber:

Ensure slow and uniform drying to avoid migration of the colour.

Flow of feeding liquor:

Flow of feeding liquor has to be adjusted with the flow meter. Adjust the flow such that the liquor shouldpass throughout the width and length of the fabric.

Batching for semicontineous Process:

Avoid over batching. Batch must be revolving to avoid the seepage. For continuous dyeing range thefabric must be cooled before batching.

Covering batching:

For pad batch and semi continuous method the fabric is to be isolated from the departmentalatmosphere. Necessary action: Wrap the batches with polyethylene sheets to avoid localized drying.