Coloured Gems

Sapphire
Contributed by John Clyma Thursday, 26 April 2007

Most people relate Sapphire to the color Blue. Sapphire is a form of Corundum (ko-RUN-dum), readily available in an array of other colors: Pink, Golden, Green, peachy Orange, Purple and Colorless.

SAPPHIRE

THE BIRTHSTONE for SEPTEMBER (Blue)

ALTERNATE BIRTHSTONE for APRIL (White)

ALTERNATE BIRTHSTONE for OCTOBER (Pink)

ALTERNATE BIRTHSTONE for NOVEMBER (Yellow)

The 5th and 45th ANNIVERSARY STONE

The 70th ANNIVERSARY JUBILEE STONE

MOH's scale of hardness : 9

Toughness : Excellent
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Refractive Index : 1.762-1.770 (+.009,-.005)

Specific Gravity : 4.00 (+.10,-.05)

Sapphire and Ruby comprise more than half of all Gemstones sold worldwide. Sapphire's popularity is not based on color alone. Its hardness of 9 places it next to Diamond (10), making it an excellent choice for jewelry worn daily. It is frequently featured in engagement rings. Most people relate Sapphire to the color Blue. Sapphire is a form of Corundum (ko-RUN-dum), readily available in an array of other colors: Pink, Golden, Green, peachy Orange, Purple and Colorless. These alternate colors are called 'Fancy Sapphire', or simply variations of the standard hues. Color change Sapphires are those which have two colors which are distinct when the light source is changed from fluorescent to incandescent. Generally, the more clear and vivid the color, the more valuable the fancy sapphire. If the color is in the pastel range, the clarity should be good: because in lighter tones any inclusions are more noticeable. The trade usually recognizes gemstones with fewer visible inclusions to be more valuable than gems with visible inclusions. In a lighter colored gemstone, the cut is also more important: it should reflect light back evenly across the face of the stone, making it lively and brilliant. With darker more intense colors, the cut isn't as critical because the color creates its own impact. Sapphire is not usually heat sensitive, but a jeweler's torch could alter the color, it may be prudent to ask a Jeweler to remove the stone before applying his torch. There are not very many chemicals that could attack this gem, but if boiled in a diamond cleaning kit the stone can lose it's polish, also Jewelers pickling solutions containing borax will etch the surface. Ceylon (Sri Lanka) positively produces the finest all-round Sapphires in the world today. The very name commands a premium, and Ceylon Gems have constantly increased in price. We have always been on top of the Gem market in Ceylon and stay up with current prices and new discoveries. It is a very difficult market due to political unrest. It IS dangerous to go there, and it's more dangerous to go outside the capital city into the countryside where the stones are hand dug from the pits. We constantly buy fine Ceylon Sapphires when the price is "right." To be "right" we have the connections to know who needs quick and ready cash. Every stone is negotiated differently, thereby affecting the price per carat. We work hard to bring these highly valued Gemstones to you at very very affordable prices. Sapphire of lesser quality comes out of Australia, Thailand, Colombia, Kampuchea (Cambodia), Kenya and Tanzania (Africa), and Montana (USA), and we do not usually offer these stones.

TREATMENTS - Almost all (99%) Sapphire on the market is routinely treated with 'heat' to enhance and stabilize the color. The typical heat treatment process is a permanent process and it does not normally adversely affect the performance, and durability of the gem, but in recent years demand for natural non-heated non-treated top quality Sapphire has caused these gems to command a somewhat higher premium, depending on the gem. When we disclose a gem as enhanced with 'heat', we are typically referring to
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the heat enhancement procedure performed in Sri Lanka right near the mines, using the lower temperature wood heat method. This 'blow' heat method typically is used on very very good quality Ceylon gems, only to slightly enhance the color and/or to stabilize the color from fading in sunlight. There's no need to worry when you see this enhancement disclosed. Almost all Ceylon Padparadscha Sapphire and virtually all Ceylon Orange Sapphire on the market was subjected to 'blow' heat. This 'blow' heating method has been an accepted trade practice for many many generations. There are other types of heat enhancement procedures, however, one of which is a high temperature furnace fired method. This 'furnace' process is typically performed on Sapphire of a much lesser quality. The goal is to seriously enhance or alter the color and/or clarity of the stone. Most of these gemstones are 'cooked' over and over until the gem dealers feel it is a more desirable color and will fetch a better price in the market. We normally do not offer gemstones of this type. CAVEAT EMPTOR - A new type heat enhancement was introduced recently, called 'bulk diffusion', which means the gem is subjected to the high temperature furnace fired method above 1900o C, and also under high pressure, then a coloring agent is added to the mix to alter and/or change the color of the gemstone. AGTA and GIA gem labs, after examination of this 'bulk diffused' heat treatment process reveals that the color does not go all the way through the gem, but is only in the outer layer, so if the stone is ever scratched or recut the outside color layer would be removed and the original color would then be visible under the outer layer of the gem. These 'bulk diffusion' factories are usually at locations in Thailand, and since Asian gem suppliers (and there are many online now) are not subject to the same disclosure laws as we are here in the US, these enhancement processes are rarely disclosed to the buyer, so buyers please beware. For example, you may see a premium Ceylon Sapphire advertised on one of those websites for what appears to be pennies on the dollar. You can rest assured this is most likely a diffused stone altered by one of the Asian factories. Some of these gem suppliers even go to great lengths to try to convince the public that there is no difference in the value of their diffused gems, and the value of a natural non-treated gem, but any experienced jeweler will verify that a statement like that is totally untrue. We specialize in obtaining top quality Ceylon Sapphires that are natural "non-treated" gems, not heated or chemically treated in any way (the exception is Padparadscha, Golden, Orange, and some of the darker shades of Blue Sapphire, which as stated in treatments above are typically 'blow' heat enhanced to stabilize the color. CARE - It is usually safe to clean Sapphire in an Ultrasonic Cleaner, and generally safe to use a steamer, but we strongly recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the most trustworthy way to clean Sapphire jewelry.

Kashmir Sapphire - Ceylon Blue Sapphire

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THE BIRTHSTONE for SEPTEMBER (Blue)

MOH's scale of hardness : 9

Toughness : Excellent

Refractive Index : 1.762-1.770 (+.009,-.005)

Specific Gravity : 4.00 (+.10,-.05)

Although everyone has heard of the fabled Burmese Kashmir Sapphire, few have ever seen one. We constantly see appraisals that refer to Kashmir Sapphire (or Cashmere Sapphire), but it is usually referring to a Top Gem Ceylon Sapphire from Sri Lanka. The term Kashmir is widely regarded to mean the finest quality Blue Sapphire with a velvety, slightly violetish blue, highly saturated in medium to medium dark tone, with sleepy transparency. Once in a great while we are able to acquire one from Burma, but since the mine has been depleted and these highly prized stones are old stones that are simply brought back onto the market, they don't last long. Authentic Kashmir Sapphires and the Kashmir color Sapphires carry a particularly high cost per carat and are very highly valued Collectors Gemstones. There are an array of color grades, and prices, and sometimes it's difficult to know what quality of color to expect in stones at various prices. The Blue Sapphire color next on the popularity scale is Cornflower Blue. The Cornflower Blue or Medium Blue color shades vary but all usually allow more light into the stone for a brighter appearance, so these stones are usually cut in the Cushion or Oval shape to make it as brilliant as possible. Price per carat reflects the size, evenness of the color, the clarity and the brightness of the stone. We prefer to use the GIA Colored Stone Grading System, this is an exceptionally good method for noting the quality of color stones. In commercial grade Blue Sapphire you can
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expect to see the hue range from violet (V) to a very strongly greenish blue (vstgB), and tones will range between 2 and through 8, but less of a saturation range. Saturation in the commercial grade is usually from 1 to 3. Gem Quality Blue Sapphire usually narrow in the range of hues. The hues usually range from violet (V) to a very slightly greenish blue (vslgB), and their ranges of tone can be somewhere between 3 and 7, but optimum choice is between 4 to 6. Saturation in the Gem Quality grade can be from 3 through 5, but again the optimum is 4 to 5. In Top Gem Quality Blue Sapphire the hues can range from a bluish-violet, or violetish-blue, or pure blue (bV, vB, or B). Tone should be between 5 and 7, and saturation should be 5 or 6. The examples in the diagram are bV 5/5 to 7/5, vB 5/5 to 7/5, and B 5/5 to 7/5, and B 6/6. CARE - It is usually safe to clean Sapphire in an Ultrasonic Cleaner, and generally safe to use a steamer, but we strongly recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the most trustworthy way to clean Sapphire jewelry.

Color Change Sapphire

MOH's scale of hardness : 9

Toughness : Excellent

Refractive Index : 1.762-1.770 (+.009,-.005)

Specific Gravity : 4.00 (+.10,-.05)

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A color change Gemstone is one that changes from one color to another due to a change in the light source. The color change can be a subtle change in hue, to a dramatic blue to purple color change. The color change comes about in a Gemstone due to the atomic structure of the stone. The ultraviolet rays in sunlight or fluorescent light excite the atoms in a color change Gem, but artificial (incandescent) light does not. Sapphire is one of the few Gemstones that can have a color change. The more dramatic the color change, the rarer and more expensive the stone. All of our Color Change Sapphires are are very highly valued Collectors Gemstones. CARE - It is usually safe to clean Sapphire in an Ultrasonic Cleaner, and generally safe to use a steamer, but we strongly recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the most trustworthy way to clean Sapphire jewelry.

Green Sapphire

MOH's scale of hardness : 9

Toughness : Excellent

Refractive Index : 1.762-1.770 (+.009,-.005)

Specific Gravity : 4.00 (+.10,-.05)

These Sapphires are

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generally a strong, bright green color, sometimes from green to bluish green or yellowish green pleochroism. They are not the same tone of Green as the Chrome Tourmaline, Tsavorite Garnet, or Emerald, but can at first glance look very similar. The mixed Oval and Cushion cut are the most common, but you can sometimes find square or rectangular step cuts. Green Sapphires are not very popular for mounting in jewelry but make nice additions to any Collection. CARE - It is usually safe to clean Sapphire in an Ultrasonic Cleaner, and generally safe to use a steamer, but we strongly recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the most trustworthy way to clean Sapphire jewelry.

Pink Sapphire

ALTERNATE BIRTHSTONE for OCTOBER (Pink)

MOH's scale of hardness : 9

Toughness : Excellent

Refractive Index : 1.762-1.770 (+.009,-.005)

Specific Gravity : 4.00 (+.10,-.05)

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Pink Sapphires are one of the HOTTEST of the fancy color Sapphires. The 4 photos above reflect the variance in color, from Light Pink similar to the Fancy Pink Diamond color, to very Hot Pinks similar to the Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond color. Light Pinks are very very hard to find, customarily the medium pinks are the most commonly found. Light pinks have become extremely popular, since they are so close to the color of a Fancy Pink Diamond, and a few Hollywood celebrities have been seen wearing them. The Top Quality Hot Pinks are getting very rare, and as a result they have seen the largest increase in value over the past 5 years of any of the Sapphires. Pink Sapphire carries a premium price nearing and oftentimes surpassing the price for fine Ceylon (kashmir and royal) Blue Sapphire. Pink Sapphire is a treasured Gemstones in any Collection. Price per carat reflects the size, evenness of the color, the clarity and the brightness of the stone. CARE - It is usually safe to clean Sapphire in an Ultrasonic Cleaner, and generally safe to use a steamer, but we strongly recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the most trustworthy way to clean Sapphire jewelry.

Padparadscha Sapphire

MOH's scale of hardness : 9

Toughness : Excellent

Refractive Index : 1.762-1.770 (+.009,-.005)

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Specific Gravity : 4.00 (+.10,-.05)

Padparadscha is the Sinhalese word meaning "lotus blossom". Padparadscha is Corundum in the pastel shades of delicate Orange-Yellow-Pink. Padparadscha can run from a more predominant Pink with nice Yellow-Orange mixed in, to the intense pastel tones of predominantly Hot Pink with Yellow-Orange mixed in, this means the Pink would be the more predominant color in the stone but the others are present and visible. At the other end of the color spectrum Padparadscha can run from a more predominant pastel Orange with nice Pink-Yellow mixed in, to the darker tones of Orange with Pink-Yellow mixed in. One color can be more predominant than the others, but never without the others. The 4 photos above reflect the variance in color. The AGTA Lab recently took a variety of stones that dealers suggested met the criteria of Padparadscha and scientifically defined the color range using an imaging spectrophotometer. Unfortunately, the results of that attempt almost entirely excluded the stones produced from Tanzania?s Umba Valley. Most dealers and gemologists feel that the Umba stones do not qualify because of their overly dark tones and strong brown (?garnet like?) component. The spectacular ?aurora? red-orange stones from Vietnam and Madagascar, even though there are no brown components in those stones, are also excluded by the AGTA definition because of their oranges of high saturation and/or dark tones, this is mainly because Sri Lanka has traditionally never produced such colors. In other words, when it comes to getting a gem report on Padparadscha, if it isn't from Sri Lanka and in a pastel shade, it probably isn't a true Padparadscha. Most Padparadscha tends to have slight inclusions, especially in the rich intense tones, so if you see one that is a well cut and eye clean (or better) stone, with rich pastel blended color having all three colors evenly balanced and saturated throughout the stone, you are looking at one of the most expensive and sought after top quality Padparadscha gems available from the mines in Sri Lanka (Ceylon). We only carry the finest natural Ceylon Padparadscha Sapphire which carries a premium price nearing and oftentimes surpasses the price for fine Ceylon (kashmir and royal) Blue Sapphire. Padparadscha Sapphire is rarer than fine Ruby with a great investment potential! CARE - It is usually safe to clean Sapphire in an Ultrasonic Cleaner, and generally safe to use a steamer, but we strongly recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the most trustworthy way to clean Sapphire jewelry.

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White Sapphire

THE ALTERNATE BIRTHSTONE for APRIL (White)

MOH's scale of hardness : 9

Toughness : Excellent

Refractive Index : 1.762-1.770 (+.009,-.005)

Specific Gravity : 4.00 (+.10,-.05)

White or "Colorless" Sapphires have a great deal of brilliance, are attractive, durable and well priced. Gem quality Colorless Sapphires are not common. In fact they are very difficult to obtain, so prices should continue to move upward in the market. Some Colorless Sapphires have a very light tint of Blue, Yellow, or Pink but are still considered colorless. Colorless (white) Sapphire has been used as a substitute for Diamond for years. We often suggest Colorless (white) Sapphire as the accent stones
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in jewelry pieces, and the larger gems make excellent main stones in pendants and rings, but we do not recommend it if you expect it to be as brilliant as a diamond. White Sapphire is a natural precious gem, and as such, stands on it's own merit as a beautiful precious gemstone. Brilliant and Clean Colorless (white) Sapphires are gaining popularity as a highly valued Collectors Gemstone. FAQ - What is the difference between White Sapphire and Diamond? First let me start by saying natural White Sapphire is a beautiful gem on it's own, but there is only one gem that looks like a Diamond, and that is a Diamond. There are several clear colorless gems that resemble a Diamond, but close examination by a trained gemologist will easily distinguish the difference. Diamond has a very high refractive index (2.417-2.419) and strong dispersion (0.044) to give it great brilliance and fire. The refractive index for Colorless (white) Sapphire is a bit lower (1.766-1.774) and it has less dispersion (0.018) which means it cannot perform exactly like a Diamond. A gem quality Colorless (white) Sapphire that is well cut is a very brilliant gemstone, but for the reasons I mentioned above it does not have the same fire as a Diamond. By fire, I mean when you look at a Diamond, you see the colors of the rainbow in the faceting in natural daylight, you can even reflect the sunlight hitting a diamond and the colors of the rainbow will appear on the surfaces around you. Whereas, with the White Sapphire, you see white light reflected in the faceting. The gem closest to a Diamond in brilliance and fire is the Colorless Zircon, this gem has a very high refractive index (1.777-1.987) and strong dispersion (0.039). Gem quality Colorless Zircon is around the same price as gem quality White Sapphire. There is a drawback with Zircon, however, that is it's hardness. Diamond is very hard (10) and can cut or scratch most all other gems and glass. Sapphire is next on the hardness scale (9) and can scratch most other gems, except Diamond. Zircon has about the same hardness as Tanzanite (7) and can only scratch a few other gems, but it cannot scratch Sapphire or Diamond. Zircon therefore is not recommended for a Man's Ring since it is sensitive to knocks, and Men are usually hard on their jewelry. Jewelers do use Zircon occasionally in a Ladies Ring but generally take extra precautions to protect the gem from knocks. This brings us back to the White Sapphire. Looking at the fact it is a very brilliant and beautiful natural gem, as well as very hard and durable for jewelry, and it is colorless, makes the White Sapphire a very suitable choice if the budget does not allow for a Diamond and yet you still want a natural gemstone. CARE - It is usually safe to clean Sapphire in an Ultrasonic Cleaner, and generally safe to use a steamer, but we strongly recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the most trustworthy way to clean Sapphire jewelry.

Yellow Sapphire

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ALTERNATE BIRTHSTONE for NOVEMBER (Yellow)

MOH's scale of hardness : 9

Toughness : Excellent

Refractive Index : 1.762-1.770 (+.009,-.005)

Specific Gravity : 4.00 (+.10,-.05)

Yellow Sapphires are bright gemstones that range in color from a "Light Buttery Yellow" (light fancy yellow), a "Medium Buttery Yellow" or "Light Canary Yellow" (fancy yellow), a "Rich Buttery Yellow" or "Canary Yellow" (fancy intense yellow), to a "Rich Canary Yellow" (vivid yellow). The 3 photos above reflect the variance in color, from Light Yellow similar to the Fancy Yellow Diamond color, to very Rich Canary Yellow similar to the Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond color. Yellow Sapphire has become extremely popular, since they so closely resemble the color of a Yellow Diamond. These faceted Gems are exceptional in jewelry, since their hardness is second only to Diamond. We carry only Top Gem quality Natural Yellow Sapphires, almost all of which are not treated. CARE - It is usually safe to clean Sapphire in an Ultrasonic Cleaner, and generally safe to use a steamer, but we strongly recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the most trustworthy way to clean Sapphire jewelry.

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STAR SAPPHIRE

ALTERNATE BIRTHSTONE for AUGUST

MOH's scale of hardness : 9

Toughness : Excellent

Refractive Index : 1.762-1.770 (+.009,-.005)

Specific Gravity : 4.00 (+.10,-.05)

Sapphire sometimes displays a three-ray, six-point star. These star sapphires are cut in a smooth domed cabochon cut to display the effect. The star is best visible when illuminated with a single light source: it moves across the stone as the light moves. This effect, called asterism, is caused by light reflecting off tiny needle like rutile (called "silk")
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arranged in three sets of parallel needles that intersect one another at 60o angles. Star Sapphire is usually found in Blue colors, but there are also various shades of brown and green that are called Black Star Sapphire. Orange and Yellow Star Sapphires are almost unknown, and very rare. The value of star sapphires are influenced by at least these two things: 1) the intensity and attractiveness of the body color, and 2) the strength and sharpness of the star. Of course all six legs should be fairly straight and equally prominent. Star sapphires rarely have the combination of a fine translucent or transparent color and a sharp prominent star, but when offered, these gems are highly valued and the most expensive. There are not very many chemicals that could attack this gem, but if boiled in a diamond cleaning kit the stone can lose it's polish, also Jewelers pickling solutions containing boron will etch the surface. Our source for fine Star Sapphire is Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon), known for producing the finest variety of Sapphire available. Star Sapphires are highly valued Collectors Gemstones.

TREATMENTS - Star Sapphire is normally not heat treated, since the heat treatment process can dissolve the rutile needles that causes the asterism to form a star. CARE - It is risky to clean Star Sapphire in an Ultrasonic Cleaner, and risky to use a steamer. We strongly recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Star Sapphire jewelry. NOTE - Most commonly you will see that synthetics jump out as way too perfect looking, ie: a perfect star, a super clean stone, and great color. If you own one and aren't sure if it's genuine... Here's a few quick ways you might be able to tell the difference... First thing to look at is the bottom, if there is an "L" stamped in the stone, it's a Lindy Star and synthetic... if it does not have an "L" it passes that test, now look for imperfections within the stone, and/or unevenness on the bottom, and/or stripes or lines of color that shows through the top... most naturals have one or more of these natural imperfections... then look at the star itself, using a flashlight... most natural stars do not have a "perfect" star, whereas the natural will most likely have 1 or more of the 6 legs not exactly the same length, or maybe not all 6 are perfectly straight... now move the flashlight around in a circle, the star should travel around and follow the light source... if the star stays stationary it is definitely synthetic. If it passes these tests, you can take it to a jeweler that has a thermal conductivity gem tester (this tester has a needle gauge, not just the diamond tester that just makes a beep), the dial should jump to the mark just before a diamond to tell you it's corundum. If it passes this test you may have a genuine Star, but don't get super excited yet, these are just simple things you can do to rule out the majority of synthetics, the only way to be sure is to send the stone to a reputable Gem Laboratory and ask for a Gem Identification Report.

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