MUIR HERITAGE LAND TRUST

Open Space news

S
P R I N G

2005

Fernandez Ranch: A Natural Legacy

By Sherida Bush
n a sailing ship bound for Brazil, he faces perilous seas and foreign lands. He is only 13, and his journey begins the story of Fernandez Ranch. Young Bernardo Fernandez joins the navy and leaves his native Portugal in 1843. His adventuresome spirit eventually brings him here, where his long life recounts the settling of West Contra Costa County.The story is one of adventure, mystery, romance and California history. As his ship sails from Brazil to ports around the world, Bernardo works his way up from sailor to master by the age of 20. Some years pass before he lands in New York, and for three years he captains ships working up and down the Atlantic seaboard. On the other side of the continent, Don Ignacio Martinez oversees his vast cattle ranch on land that now encompasses Pinole, Martinez, Crockett, Rodeo and the Franklin Ridge. Don Ignacio is the first European settler in the area, having been awarded a Spanish Land grant of more than 17,000 acres. His 3,000 head of cattle roam free on the hills and valleys of the Franklin Ridge, where today the Muir Heritage Land Trust works to preserve open space. A few years before Bernardo Fernandez finds his way to the western shore of North America, Don Ignacio dies.Yet the lives of the two men are

forever linked by the land. Fernandez comes to California around 1853, lured perhapsas so many wereby tales of California gold.The exact time and details of his arrival vary. One historian reports he sailed around Cape Horn on a clipper ship. Another has him nearly drowned when the slave ship he was on is dashed to pieces on Seal Rock south of San Francisco.The truth may always be a mystery. All accounts do agree that he soon met a fellow Portuguese, Francis Cruz, and joined his shipping business as a partner. Cruz had already been to the Gold Country and did not find the experience rewarding enough to stay. While searching for tanbark, which they shipped to factories in San Francisco and Monterey, the two partners sailed to the Pinole waterfront. Fernandez must have liked what he saw, because he settled there. Around 1854 he established his own shipping enterprise on the shoreline of what is today Pinole, the first business in the area. He purchased 43 acres and built wharves, storage barns, a small home and a general store. Farmers and cattlemen used his ships to transport their goods to market, and he supported Gold Rush traffic between San Francisco and Sutter Creek. His business flourished, heralding the beginnings of a new city.
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Inside
Executive Directors Report New Board Members Hike and Event Series Dutra Ranch Dedication Stewardship Update Planned Giving Grants MHLT products

STEPHEN JOSEPH

There is a love of wild nature in everyone.

JOHN
MUIR

Executive Directors Repor t

MHLT set to purchase Fernandez Ranch: Restoration and stewardship phase begins
Dear Land Trust Supporters, Once you read Sherida Bushs wonderful article on the Fernandez Ranch, youll know that were very close to accomplishing our greatest challenge, the completion of the Fernandez Ranch acquisition. Numerous agencies, private foundations, and individuals have helped with this important acquisition and we are truly grateful. We will print a full list of Fernandez Ranch donors in our fall newsletter. We are learning as our acquisitions get bigger and our land holdings increase, restoration and stewardship become more and more important.The Muir Heritage Land Trust must responsibly manage the properties we acquire. Funding these activities will become harder as the last remaining voter approved state park bond funds disappear. In order to qualify for existing state park bond funding, the Land Trust completed a resource inventory (Conceptual Area Protection Plan) of the entire 10,000 acre Franklin Ridge.The Department of Fish and Game supports our work to acquire the Fernandez Ranch and other properties in the Franklin Ridge because of the potential to protect a significant wildlife corridor for the federally listed endangered Alameda whipsnake and California red-legged frog. In addition, two miles of Rodeo Creek watershed drain through the Fernandez Ranch. The State Coastal Conservancy (SCC) committed $1,125,000 and the State Wildlife Conservation Board (WCB) committed $1,000,000. These funds will get final Board approval at WCBs February Board meeting and SCCs March Board meeting.The Gordon and Betty Moore Foundation contributed $1,000,000, and the State Environmental Enhancement and Mitigation Grant Program (EEMP) is contributing $152,000. MHLT will pay the balance of $48,000. The Moore Foundation funds came available unexpectedly, and made up for the lack of federal funding that we had anticipated. Congressman Miller had earmarked $1,000,000 from the proposed federal transportation bill for the Fernandez Ranch acquisition.The transportation bill never made it out of the House/Senate Conference Committee, and we had to find alternative funding. Other pending funds include $400,000 from the National Oceanic Atmospheric Agency (NOAA).These funds were also requested by Congressman Miller, and were granted to the State Coastal Conservancy. If we are able to get the NOAA funds, we will be able to redirect some of the Coastal Conservancys funding towards restoration of Rodeo Creek. As we move into the second phase of the project, MHLT is continuing to seek support from public agencies, private foundations, and all of you to ensure successful completion of the Fernandez Ranch Campaign.We have already begun work on new acquisitions in West Contra Costa County, Lamorinda, and the Franklin Ridge.With your support, anything is possible. Thank you!

MHLT Executive Director

M U I R H E R I T A G E L A N D T RU S T Open Space News

Fernandez Ranch: A Natural Legacy

continued from page 1

M U I R H E R I TAG E L A N D T RU S T
P.O. Box 2452 Martinez, CA 94553 925-228-5460 925-372-5460 fax info@muirheritagelandtrust.org www.muirheritagelandtrust.org

S TAFF
Tina Batt Executive Director Linus Eukel Development & Communications Director Mary Alice Stadum Executive Associate Beth Pardieck Stewardship Associate

OF

B OARD D IRECTORS

Mark Wilson Chair Ken Fischer Vice Chair Sheila Grilli Secretary Louis E. Stoddard Treasurer Dick Awenius Peter Colby Steve Pardieck June Rogers Marj Ross Donn Walklet Bill Weiner

E MERITUS B OARD M EMBERS

Hulet Hornbeck Hal Olson Jack Telfer Everett Turner

H ONORARY B OARD M EMBER

Jim Cutler

E DITOR
Linus Eukel

N EWSLETTER C ONTRIBUTORS
Sherida Bush Dana Richards Tina Batt Beth Pardieck Mary Alice Stadum Newsletter design/editing: Public Media Center

With his business prospering, Bernardo Fernandezs thoughts turned to domestic matters. He became acquainted with a family living in Marinthe Cuadra family, settlers recently arrived from Chile. Bernardo would sail across the Carquinez Strait to court the young daughter, Carlotta. Four years later, in 1859, they married. She was 17 or 19, he was 27 or 29 or 32, depending on which historian is correct.They settled in Pinole and raised six children. By this time, Don Ignacio Martinezs original Rancho El Pinole had been divided among his descendants. In the late 1800s, Fernandez bought 3,000 acres of the rancho from one of Martinezs daughters, Rafaela Martinez Tennent. He eventually owned a total of 9,000 acres and raised cattle on the property, as did his neighboring landowners. According to his great grandson, Bill Fernandez, Bernardo was generally a merchant not a cattlemanhe hired others to watch over his stock.The Fernandez descendants today own a smaller but still beautiful Fernandez Ranch. The ranch is now 702 acres of land, what remains of Bernardo Fernandezs original acreage. It lies at the western edge of the Franklin Ridge, south of Highway 4 near Franklin Canyon Golf Course.Visitors looking west from the top of Dutra Ranch, the Land Trusts most recent acquisition, enjoy a view of the oak-covered hills of Fernandez Ranch. The Muir Heritage Land Trust plans to purchase the property to preserve the land, the wildlife, and the trail corridor. This is for the community, said Executive Director Tina Batt. It will create what is virtually a new regional park. Fernandez Ranch will be the largest open space preserve in the area. A portion of the Bay Area Ridge Trail is proposed to traverse the ranch.The Land Trust plans to complete the acquisition in late spring (See the Executive Directors Report on facing page). Much of Fernandez Ranch is as it was when Don Ignacio owned the property. Little has ever been built on the ranch.The cattle have changed some of the landscape, as they have throughout our region, but most of the land is unspoiled. In winter and early spring, the

terrain is damp, earth scented, drenched in green. Rodeo Creek flows on the land, and it has a unique distinction: Its probably the only creek in Contra Costa County that has no obstructions, no barriers, said Batt. That allows fish to swim up it unimpeded. The watershed is protected as an important ecosystem for threatened species such as steelhead and California red-legged frogs. Once the property is acquired, the Land Trusts challenges will be restoration and stewardship. Rodeo Creek needs restoration, including stabilizing steep, eroding banks in some areas. A bridge over the creek is planned to allow public access and for fire protection. Other projects include removing illegally dumped debris on the property.

LARRY HANSON

A primary stewardship goal is to enhance the lands habitat for native and special status species.The importance of the habitat was discovered by the East Bay Municipal Utility District (EBMUD) on its adjacent property, which was once part of the ranch.That land supports more endangered and threatened species, including nesting golden eagles, than any of EBMUDs other properties.To preserve the ecosystem, EBMUD did not build a planned reservoir on the watershed. Understanding what we have and what we stand to lose are vital to the future of our dwindling open lands. Populations of many animals and plants are at risk today, and preserving their habitats is the first step in protecting them. Fernandez Ranch is a great stride forward in that goal. Today, few places in Contra Costa County resemble how they looked a century ago, but Fernandez Ranch does.
M U I R H E R I T A G E L A N D T RU S T Open Space News

Fernandez Ranch: A Natural Legacy

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In her 1979 Historical Sketches, historian Jessie Clark described what she would find in the local terrain of the early 1900s: In my imagination I see those early footsteps out over the back hills area of Pinole.I see Blue Lupin, Golden Poppies.I see clumps of dark green shrubbery, artistically patterned over the hillsides. I see a herd of cattle being driven down...I see it all in memory, and thats what history is. It is remembering. It is important. Native wildflowers such as lupine and California poppies still decorate the ranchs landscape in the warm months. Other native and non-native wildflowers adorn the grasslands. Shrubbery, artistically patterned comprises small areas of chaparral and scrub, generally made up of chamise, California sagebrush, coyote brush, sticky monkey-flower and California broom. They reside on the steeper, south-facing hillsides. Also on the higher elevations of the property, the cheerful yellow Mt. Diablo sunflower (Diablo helianthella) brightens nearby chaparral.The plant is a threatened species. Magnificent elderberry trees thought to be 200 years old live on a high meadow above natural springs. Cattle graze the non-native annual grassland areas, and woodlands are dominated by the coast live oak and the California bay.The ubiquitous poison oak thrives here, too. More unusual shrubbery that may be found includes redberry, hop tree, skunkbrush and Klamath plum. Local animals are generally harder to spot. Especially two high-profile species, federally listed as threatened, believed to live herethe California red-legged frog and the Alameda whipsnake.The frog is aquatic and most likely to be found near the Rodeo Creek corridor or near natural springs, seeps, or stock ponds. It feeds on insects, algae and other frogs. The Alameda whipsnake finds Western fence lizards (bluebellies) most tasty, and spends most of its time in scrub near rocky outcrops where the lizards live. Fernandez Ranch is part of the critical habitat designated for the snake in 2000 by the Fish and Game Department. The agency vacated the designation in 2003 due to legal challenges, but it may be re-proposed.
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M U I R H E R I T A G E L A N D T RU S T Open Space News

A skyward look may capture any number of raptors. More unusual ones are the striking white-tailed kite, Coopers hawk, and red-shouldered hawk. Other raptors you may seeforaging or resting are the red-tailed hawk, American kestrel, great horned owl and barn owl.The raptors feed on small rodents found in the grasslands, typically the California vole, deer mouse, and Bottas pocket gopher. Seed-eating birds to look for in or near grasslands are the California quail, mourning dove, and western meadowlark. Insect-eating birds that also forage in the grasslands include the western scrub jay, barn swallow and northern mockingbird. Black tail deer are common mammals, most likely to be spotted at dawn and dusk.Two kinds of foxthe native grey and non-native redcall the area home. Coyotes, bobcats, striped skunks and raccoons join a diverse ecosystem. The rich history of Fernandez Ranch lies in the land and its resources, not in monuments, mansions or missions. Local historian Edgar A.Vovsi wrote:The legacy of El Rancho Pinole is in its land, its rolling hills and valleys. (Establishment of the Rancho El Pinole). As part of that first rancho and California history, and as a part of Bernardo and Carlottas lively story, the Fernandez descendants recognize the importance of Fernandez Ranch.Their decision to preserve those hills and valleys not only allows a glimpse of history and life as it was before, it ensures the continuation of its beauty and natural resources. Great grandson Bill Fernandez simply states that land is a legacy. Preserving the historic family ranch, he says, is a prime opportunity to provide a legacy in honor of my great grandfather.
STEPHEN JOSEPH

Bernardo and Carlotta Fernandez

The author thanks Chris Thayer of Sycamore Associates and the Contra Costa County Historical Society for assistance with this article.

CONTRA COSTA COUNTY HISTORICAL SOCIETY

New Board Members

J U N E R O G E R S has been an active volunteer and
Outreach Committee member with the Land Trust for the last four years, working on several fundraising events including the Fresh Aire Affaire and property dedications. June moved from Colorado to California in the late 1950s and accepted a job with Martinez Furniture where she worked for more than 20 years.When the small furniture store closed, June held various positions and returned to school at DVC and Hayward State College, graduating with a degree in Human Development. After a short stint in banking, June accepted a position with IBEW (International Brotherhood of Electrical Workers) where she is the bookkeeper. Active in local affairs, June has worked on numerous political campaigns; serves on her homeowners Board; and is a member of Soroptimist International. June has a daughter,Terri, and resides in Pleasant Hill.

L O U I S E . S TO D DA R D, Board Treasurer and Finance Committee Chair, was born in New York and grew up in South Carolina. He graduated from the University of Georgia with a B.S. in Animal Science and received an M.B.A. from the Wharton School at the University of Pennsylvania. He spent 28 years working at Citibank in both International Banking and Private Banking. Lou has lived in Orinda since 1983 and has served on the Board of Directors of the Orindawoods Homeowners Association since 1999. He is currently (until March 2005) Treasurer and Chairman of the Budget Committee. Lou has also served on the boards

MHLT Board of Directors (left to right) Steve Pardieck, June Rogers, Sheila Grilli (Secretary), Bill Weiner, Mark Wilson (Chair), Dick Awenius, Peter Colby, Donn Walklet, Ken Fischer (Vice Chair), Louis E. Stoddard (Treasurer), Marj Ross (not pictured).

of Citicorp Trust of California, the Miramonte High School Parents Club and the Miramonte Boosters Club. He is a member of the Sierra Club, the Nature Conservancy and the Monterey Bay Aquarium. Lou is married to Marilyn and has four grown children. He competes in running, swimming and bike events and enjoys SCUBA diving and travel.

Dutra Ranch Dedication

New informational signs tell the story Executive Director Tina Batt presents a replica of the newly installed donor plaque

A beautiful display of high-level cirrus clouds above the Dutra Ranch trail
PHOTOS BY SCOTT HEIN

Members gather at Dutra Ranch to celebrate its dedication

M U I R H E R I T A G E L A N D T RU S T Open Space News

Stewardship Update
Alhambra Creek Restoration: Environmental Education Benefits Students
By Dana Richards
When the Leiberman Report, Closing the Achievement Gap: Environment as an Integrating Context, came out several years ago, those of us in the field of environmental education were bolstered. The report provides quantitative data to support the assertion that project-based learning with an environmental focus helps all types of students become not only more ecologically literate, but also more engaged and effective learners in all discipline areas. At-risk students, the report tells us, benefit most of all from using the environment as an educational context. The development of the Environmental Studies Academy (ESA), within the Briones Independent Studies High School located at the Martinez Adult Education site along Alhambra Creek, has been a living testimony to the accuracy of the Leiberman study. Students who were turned off to school, who were pessimistic about the relevance and value of learning, and who were learning in isolation are engaging in a bold educational experiment combining community-building, self-esteem training, and project-based ecological competencies in a kind of rite of passage for these young adults who are educationally and socially at-risk. ESA students meet for 12 hours a week as a group when they once only came to school for 1 hour per week in a one-on-one setting. These 12 hours are spent working on projects like willow gathering and planting, mural painting, and GPS mapping of Alhambra Creek. Each week, students participate in mini-lessons to gain conceptual knowledge of environmental topics. Each meeting of the school starts with a check-in to acknowledge the obstacles and opportunities affecting each community-members engagement with the projects and expectations of the school. While we are transforming the riparian corridor of Alhambra Creek, we are also creating educational habitat that will nourish students. As the ESA finishes its second year, we are now beginning the process of collaborating with the staff, administration and community partners at the John Swett Elementary School, also situated along Alhambra Creek. Look for more details on the John Swett project over the coming months. The ESA is a part of ACREEC (Alhambra Creek Restoration & Environmental Education Collaborative) whose partners include the Muir Heritage Land Trust, Friends of Alhambra Creek, Urban Creeks Council, City of Martinez, Martinez Unified School District, and the Contra Costa Resource Conservation District.

A LHAMBRA C REEK R ESTORATION

AND

E NVIRONMENTAL E DUCATION C OLLABORATIVE

Grants Received as of 2/05

State Coastal Conservancy City of Martinez Shell Oil Products US Contra Costa Fish & Wildlife Committee Department of Water Resources $70,000 $20,000 Rotary Club of Martinez $25,000 Friends of Alhambra Creek $8,500 Martinez Chapter of The Saints Motorcycle Club $197,000 $250 $1400 $500 National Fish and Wildlife Foundation Nature Restoration Trust $30,000

M U I R H E R I T A G E L A N D T RU S T Open Space News

DANA RICHARDS

F ERNANDEZ R ANCH
Grants Received as of 2/05
San Francisco Foundation East Bay Community Foundation J. M. Long Foundation Wildlife Conservation Board State Coastal Conservancy Gordon & Betty Moore Foundation S.D. Bechtel, Jr. Foundation $100,000 $10,000 $50,000 Firedoll Foundation $1,000,000 Strong Foundation $1,125,000 David B. Gold Foundation $1,000,000 The Morrison & Foerster Foundation $25,000 $5,000 $10,000 $7,300 $5,000 The Mechanics Bank Environmental Enhancement Mitigation Program $5,000 $152,000

Thank You Volunteers!

Scott Hein Event Photography Larry Hanson Hike Photography Todd Kiker Event Photography and Sound, Office Information Technology Marilyn Rigdon Office and Website Support Shell Oil Products US Office Furniture Donation Ed Roth, R-Computer In-kind Donation Jacob Miller & Boy Scout Troop #165 Gustin Ranch Bench Installation Development, Outreach, Stewardship, Finance, Land Acquisition Committees For All The Work They Do James and Robert Wilson, Steve Pardieck & Joe Stadum Office Move

Become a Volunteer
Volunteers provide a tremendous benefit to the Muir Heritage Land Trust.You can contribute to the preservation of our communitys natural heritage by lending a helping hand in one or more of the following areas: Outdoor & Stewardship Projects Indoor & Office Projects Communications & Development Projects Outreach Event Projects To learn more about how you can volunteer call us at 228-5460.

PLANNED GIVING
With your support, the Muir Heritage Land Trust has been fulfilling its promise to preserve our communitys natural heritage since 1988. One important way you can continue to help provide a solid foundation for our sustained conservation efforts is through the donation of a planned gift. Giving to the Muir Heritage Land Trust in any way and any amount has an enormously positive impact on the life of our community. As the Muir Heritage Land Trust continues to reach out to the future we hope you will consider the benefits of planned giving. For more information about planned giving options please contact our Development Director Linus Eukel at (925) 228-5460.

Office Needs/Wish list

Fax Machine/Scanner/Copier Recycling service volunteer someone to come by 2 or 3 times a month and take our recyclables LCD Projector Digital Camera

M U I R H E R I T A G E L A N D T RU S T Open Space News

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