December

12

/ 2 0 11

TM

w w w.e n -v i e -f a s h i o n.c o m

Luxurious Leather
Ca ly p s o I p h o n e Ca s e s

rorschach
C h r I s to p h e G u I l l a r m new sprInG/summer ColleCtIon

maLdives & shady Pendant

J I r o K a m ata' s aC C e s s o r I e s

astroscence & aLcyone

by K at e w I l l I a m s

plus the l atest fashIon news, shows and st yles

28 08 20 46 14

Contents
06 07 08 14 18 20 24 28 32 35
f RO n t C OV E R + f O l lOW i n g Photography / S A lVA DO R P OzO w w w.salvadorpozo.com A sst. Photography / P E t E R V E R S n E l Model / D i E K E @ w w w.freshmm.nl M u A / H i l DA J O n K M A n fashion S t ylist / C E M i l E VA n DA l E n A sst. S t ylist / S H A n DO R t E n H OV E n B AC K C OV E R Photography / DAV i D YO u n g -WO l f f Model, Make up & S t yling / A l l i J i A n g A ssist ant / PA M YO u n g -WO l f f

Editor in Chief gERD KRAMER A r t Director & illustration A n n A JA S i n S K i Editor C H R i S ROA f H E n DR i K f u t t E R l i E B Sub Editors M A RY S iMC OX B R A n DOn l i n DE R E DWA R D H At f i E l D Japanese Editors tOMOKO f u J i i S HOKO n A M B A A ssistant A D W E S l E Y WA ng C onsultants DA R i A M i u R A Yuqi nAK AMuRA Web & PR Managers A n DR E A B E l l E z z A B A R R E t t R iC K E Y S t ylists tOMO KO f u J i i E WA f i u tA K J u S t Y n A KO R u S i E W iCz A ssistant n AOKO H ig A S H i YA M A

fashIon GuIde The Colours of December news International Fashion News future style "Astroescence" fashIon show Creative Statements "Rorschach" stylInG "Sorted" by Jonah Gilmore fashIon show Elie Saab W 2011 / 2012 refleCtIon Critical Level aCCessorIes Maldives & Shady Pendant luXury bIKe helmets by Andrea Cardone boots Hunter's Luxury Rainboots aCCessory CalypsoCase for the iPhone lInGerIe Dress best, dress less fashIon photoGraphy Can't beat a classic esmod Japon events photoGraphy 60s Inspirations horosCope & blood type 0 and AB

36 38 40 44 46 50

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En Vie

06

the Colours of deCember

illustration & C oncept A n n A BO u R S w w w.dollhouse-online.com

News

07

deCember 2011

versace limited edition h&m not-so-limited, also Kind of bitchy With the release of Versaces collaboration with US chain H&M, people lost their collective minds; Donatella Versace herself may have been one of them. Not only is the Limited Edition Collection being followed by a Spring 2012 collaboration (which has been leaked online), but when the New York Daily News decided to run a piece showcasing the garments on recent college graduates, they were told by H&Ms publicist that Donatella will likely not approve shooting the collection on real women."

1 2

fIGhts breaK out over versaCe for h&m Versace launched a new line of clothes for H&M in Europe and Asia on Thursday, November 17. In response to the high level of anticipation, some Chinese shoppers hired men to wait in line at the H&M in Shanghais Huai Hai Lu shopping district in their place. The men were instructed to buy as many items as possible, likely in order to be sold online at a mark-up. Reportedly, before the store opened, a fight broke out among a group of the hired men. H&Ms website also suffered a crash during the release of the new Versace line due to the overwhelming number of online shoppers. H&M released an apology later on their of ficial Twitter page saying, H&Ms really sorry for any inconvenience during today's launch of #versaceforhm. Well look into how we can improve in the future. h &m seeKs CollaboratIon wIth tom ford Af ter the highly anticipated release of Versace for H&M, the Swedish retailer is already looking ahead to their next collaboration. Margareta van den Bosch, H&Ms creative adviser, has expressed an interest in working with American designer Tom Ford. Ford originally established himself in the fashion industry as the creative director for Gucci and YSL. After making a name for himself, he launched his own Tom Ford brand as well as the Tom Ford Beauty boutique at New York depar tment store Bergdor f Goodman. Ford has not yet been approached with the project, but a high street line of clothes from the American designer would be unique to say the least. rent a vIntaGe Chanel baG Rent the Runway, the online designer clothing and accessory rental service, is now offering vintage Chanel bags. This release marks a partnership with American vintage shop What Goes Around Comes Around. The new selection includes bags, necklaces, earrings, and bracelets, all vintage Chanel. Chanel bags are classic and universally coveted by fashion-conscious women the world over. This new service offers a chance to carry a classic vintage bag from one of the worlds most influential designers. Bag rental prices range from 250 to 350 USD for a four to eight day period. Chanel bag

purchases average around 6,000 USD and prices for vintage items increase exponentially. Check out Rent the Runways website for more information. theft of marC JaCobss sprInG ColleCtIon Marc Jacobss entire 2012 spring/summer collection was stolen f ro m a tra in in tra ns i t f ro m Pa r is to Lo n d o n. T h e th ef t fo rc e d the brand to cancel its European press day where photographers and fashion editors would normally get their first look at the new collection. As the line has yet to go into production, the garments are essentially va lu e l e s s, w h i c h h a s l e d au th o r i ti e s to s u s p e c t c o u nte r fe i te r s a re responsible for the train heist. The brand has asked for any information regarding the stolen collection on its of ficial Twit ter page, promising a rewa rd fo r p i c tu re p ro of. T h e b ra n d h a s a s s u re d c o ns u m e r s th at th e collection originals are safe and that only a selection of 46 duplicates wa s sto l e n. C o u nte r fe i ti n g re m a i ns th e b i g g e st c o n c e r n, b u t Jac o bs tweets, life goes on. rIhanna to Create armanI Capsule ColleCtIon B a r bad os b o r n R& B s in g e r R ih a n n a is wo r k in g w i th A r m a n i to design a new capsule collection comprised of lingerie and denim. T h e p o p u l a r a r tist is a lre ad y th e fac e of Em p o r i o A r m a n i U n d e r we a r a n d A r m a n i J e a ns, sta r r in g in s ex y c a m pa i g n ad s fo r b oth lin e s. Its b e e n re p o r te d th at th e A r m a n i J e a ns c a ps u l e c o ll e c ti o n w ill i n c lu d e t wo t ypes of jeans (boy friend f it and skinny), t wo t-shir ts featuring the c o mb in e d lo g os of th e A r ma ni e agl e a nd R ih a n n as R l a b e l, a c a nva s bag, and a black leather biker jacket. The Emporio Armani Under wear line will feature lace bra and pant y sets in t wo colors, cobalt blue and pearl grey, as well as thongs, briefs, and camisoles to match. The new collection is scheduled to hit stores in December. the valentIno GaravanI vIrtual museum Va l e ntin o G a rava n i m ay h ave retire d, b u t h es ke e p in g h im s e l f busy with the creation of a new digital fashion museum. Created with business par tner Giancarlo Giamet ti, the Internet and app based museum will feature more than 300 dresses spanning a 50 year period of the Valentino fashion houses histor y. Utilizing a 3D environment, the application gives users a real museum experience. Museum visitors c a n b rows e th ro u g h o u t f i ts i n c lu d i n g 3 - d im e ns i o n a l m o d e ls, o r i g i n a l s ketc h e s, re d c a r p et p h otos, a n e c d ote s, a n d c a m pa i g n ad s. Im ag e s of a n d info r m ati o n a b ou t th e m a n h im s e l f a ls o a p p e a r th rou g h ou t th e mu s e u m. T h e c o nte nt of th e v ir tu a l mu s e u m is m a s s i ve; i t wou ld encompass more than 107,500 square feet if it were a real world space. Va l e ntin o is re p o r te d l y ve r y p rou d of th e mu s e u m, w h i c h of f ic i a ll y launches on December 5. In the meantime, you can see a preview of the site on You Tube.

3 4

de la sole, edInburGh D e L a S o l e i s R o s e S tre ets q u i r k i e s t tr a i n e r b o u ti q u e w h i c h of fe r s retro s t y l e tr a i n e r s i n a v i nt a g e s et ti n g g i v i n g c u s to m e r s a n ew a n d p e r s o n a l ex p e r i e n c e i n tr a i n e r s h o p p i n g. T h e ow n e r, K at y B e l l h a s h a n d p i c ke d s eve n i n d e p e n d e nt b r a n d s to l a u n c h th e i r c o l l e c ti o n s i n to th e u p p e r l eve l of th e b o u ti q u e. S h e a l s o wa nts th e u p p e r l eve l of th e b o u ti q u e to b e d i ve r s e a n d a p p e a l to a w i d e r a n g e of c u s to m e r s s o h a s c h o s e n s eve n ve r y d i f fe re nt b r a n d s to f i l l th e a re a. T h e re i s a c o o l m i x of M e n swe a r, C h i l d re n's we a r, Ac c e s s o r i e s a n d Wo m e n swe a r i n c l u d i n g Wo m e n swe a r b r a n d s n i c c i.n. a n d C.Wats o n a n d C h i l d re n swe a r b r a n d B ad I d e a. T h e h a n d-p i c ke d i n d e p e n d e nt b r a n d s w i l l l a u n c h th e i r c o l l e c ti o n s i n to th e s to re w i th a L a u n c h a n d Prev i ew N i g ht o n Fr i d ay 18 th N ove m b e r. T h e eve nt w i l l s t a r t at 7p m-10 p m a n d w i l l t a ke p l a c e at D e L a S o l e, 13 6 R o s e S tre et, Ed i n b u rg h, EH2 3 J D

News

+1

En Vie

08

future style

astroesCenCe & alCyone

by kate williams
A ll garments / K At E W i l l i A M S Photography / A n DR E A C A R t E R-BOW M A n Model / A M Y g f ROM S E l EC t (silver out fits) & A n A S tA S S i A C @ f M ( printed out fits) Make up A r tist / JA M i E E

M E t EOR C A R Dig A n beige/white (cot ton and metal ) DR E S S (titaniumcoated nylon-jersey)

l u n A DR ES S in silver (nylon and metal ) OR B i tA l H At ( persepx and wire)

both: S i l K J E R S E Y, l E At H E R ('A lcyone' collection)

A S t E ROi D tO P grey ( (titaniumcoated nylon-jersey) S O l A R S K i R t silver (metal and nylon) A S t R A l A R M B A n D ( perspex, bronze leather and wire

S K Y HOOK DR E S S ( bronze leather)

En Vie

14

fashion show

rorsChaCh
tex t / E DWA R D H At f i E l D Photography / n iC Ol A g l E iC H A u f, f R A n K B A RY l KO ( p.16)

Creative statements

hristophe

Guillarms

new

T here are a few splashes of brighter colors in the colle ction, including a strik ing multicolored but te r f ly print gown and an ele gant sof t coralcolored raw silk dress with a beaded waistband. In keeping with the theme of unpredictabilit y, the bright colors are rounded out by a dress and gown made of an intricate blue silk chif fon t ye-dye that undulate s gracefully creating an optical illusion like the ink blots in the te st for which the collection is named. T he t wo really standout fe ature s in the collection are the ex traordinar y embroider y and the intricate use of beads and sequins. mini gandoura, which A pe r fe ct fe ature s example is a camel silk ge orget te beautiful embroide r y with sequins that f lourishe s naturally ove r the garment in organic designs. T he laser-cut petals e mbroide red in several of the garme nts bring the clothes to life in a flurr y of movement. The petals themselves are exquisitely shaped garments. and their arrangement give s an almost avian qualit y to the T he clothe s in the Rorschach

spring / summer collection

entitled rorsChaCh presents a truly unique approach to fashion from one of the sharpest creative minds in the industry. In his own press release, Guillarm describes the collection as a desire to query the creation process and discover the origin of inspiration. however, the rorschach collection

goes far deeper. Named for the famed Rorschach test in which subjects are asked to interpret inkblots, the clothes in this collection also incorporate an element of interpretation. Guillarm combines various shapes and materials to create unique and sometimes ambiguous figures, challenging us to see more. Many of the garments are intentionally lef t with an unfinished feeling, incorporating beaded mesh to fill in the gaps while revealing a tasteful amount of skin that hints at sexuality. In probing the origin of inspiration, Guillarm retur ns to an e ssential color palet te, incorporating lustrous whites, matte blacks, silver, gold, and a variet y of e ar th and f le sh tone s.

colle ction are as unpredictable as they are dive rse, from casual to formal, play ful to inte nse, classic to edgy. In spite of the variet y of clothing, all of the garme nts fe el like they belong in the colle ction togethe r, conne cted by the me s such as unpredictabilit y, simplicit y, and illusion. Guillarm proposed a truly lof t y approach to de sign with Rorschach and, like many ar tists discove r, he found that tak ing ar t to its logical conclusion le ave s us with only philosophy. However, Guillarm returned from that conclusion to give us a collection that is both intensely artistic and accessible.

C hristophe guillarm Spring / Summer 2012 "RORSCH ACH"

En Vie

sorted

18

styling

Photography / JO n A H g i l MO R E; ROC K E t SC i E n C E S t u DiO S / w w w.studiorocketscience.com Model / DOW n E Y Hair S t ylists / Di A n n A lOPE z & J E n n i f E R H E R n A n D E z Make up A r tist / S H E i l A n O R t HC u t t

En Vie

20

fashion show

elie saab haute Couture

fall/winter ColleCtion
tex t / ROWA n K i R BY-B ROW n / rowankirby-brown.blogspot.com Pictures / E l i E S A A B via smar tologie.blogspot.com

a
how elie

Cinderella come I saab's to would

stor y life is

In this collection the Lebanese c o n c e n t r a te d designer on the

describe collection.

grace and subtlety of a w o m a n. H e u s e d a l o t of tr a n s p a r e n c y i n th e f a b r i c s e s p e c i a l l y i n s k i r ts. T h e inspiration for the e mbroide r y c a me f rom str ipe s w hich h e d e s c r ib e d a s th e rays of li g ht o n th e fa b r i c. H e a ls o used the red carpet motive as a muse for this collection. T h e d e s i g n e r s ays th at li fe of a wo m a n i s a re d c a r p et. W h e n s h e l e av e s t h e h o u s e, a w o m a n s h o u l d f e e l b o l d, d a r i n g a n d b e a u t i f u l, t h e r e f o r e h e c r e a te s h i s m a g n i f i c e n t g a r m e n t s i n a way t h a t r e l e a s e s t h e i n n e r c o n f i d e n c e i n s i d e of e ve r y wo m a n. T h a t i s w h a t h a u te c o u tu re d o e s, i t a l l ows yo u to s h ow yo u r b e a u t y to th e world and feel 10 0% confident at all times! T h e r o m a n t i c a u r a t h a t to u c h e s t h i s c o l l e c t i o n m a d e th e g ow n s s h i n e w i th e n i g m ati c s e n s ati o n s a n d s u btl e elegance. The wedding gown was undoubtedly the best p a r t o f t h e c o l l e c t i o n. A h u g e a r r ay o f f a b r i c c ov e r e d w i t h c r y s t a l s a n d w r a p p e d i n g l i t te r l e f t t h e a u d i e n c e beda z zled. O nc e aga in Elie Sa a b has c a pture d the at te ntion of the fa s h i o n wo r l d w i th h i s u n i q u e c re ati o n s a n d m a r ve l o u s designs. He has presented the collection that proclaims creativit y and embodies fashion at its best. Captivating, g l a m o r o u s , a l l u r i n g a n d e n c h a n t i n g ! We l l d o n e E l i e Saab! A round of applause to you!

beautiful, enchanting and brilliant with lots of glitter. elie saab has continuously enlightened the fashion world with his remarkable eye for exceptional designs, and this collection is no exception. once again he has created a masterpiece collection, that is beautiful both to the eye and its beholder. Elie Saab `s recent collections have been a huge success in the world of fashion. Red carpet perfections, Parisian Chic and now his new Fall/Winter 2012 collection are all heating up the runway with a new romance in fashion. For many years Elie Saab has not failed to impress and this collection was far beyond our expectations. His beautifully created garments, each with its unique individual quality, were inspired by the glimmer and shimmer of the sk y scrapers. The theme was reflected in the aquamarine, bronze, white, blue, ivory and grey palette of this collection as well as in the abundance of crystals, sequins, glitter, beads and beautiful flowery embroidery on these gorgeous gowns. The collection was a bit of 1920s crossed with a bit of 1970s clashing at times with some modernistic silhouettes. Quite a few garments had low backs that resembled the everlasting inspiration of Coco Chanel's 1920s evening collections. Some gowns had a mermaid contour giving an impression they were made of wet leather and dusted with diamonds .

En Vie

24

reflection

CritiCal level
the role of fashion CritiCs in a Pr aise-dominated Cult ure
tex t / ROWA n M A H On E Y / illustration / WA R R E n S t ROng

he only thing larger than lady Gagas tatehana heels could quite possibly be her ego. Fresh off the success of

CONFLICT OF INTERESTS Yet th i s n oti o n of p rete n c e a n d s i n g u l a r o p i n i o n i s a n i nte re s ti n g o n e, a s i nte r wove n a n d p e r h a p s eve n a s hy p o c r i ti c a l a c o n c e pt a s f a s h i o n c r i ti q u i n g i ts e l f. T h e fashion industr y has re lie d on se lling aspirations for high e n d l i fe s t y l e a n d i n c o m e s i n c e ti m e i m m e m o r i a l, b u t w h o are they re ally selling to? According to Newspace.com.au, l e s s th a n h a l f of th e tota l re ad e r s of Vo g u e Au stra li a h ave f u l l ti m e e m p l oy m e nt, w i th a f a i r l y eve n s p l i t b et we e n a l l f i ve q u i nti l e s o n th e s o c i o e c o n o m i c s c a l e. W h at th at means is that only roughly 20% of readers can realistically af ford the prices of the garments adver tised (a Rick Owens j a c ket re l e a s e d a ro u n d Au g u s t of th i s ye a r, fo r ex a m p l e, retailed at Bergdor f s in the US for $46,0 0 0. You read that right.) For a rgume nts s a ke, th e n, let us s ay that most of us w ho b u y th e s e m a g a z i n e s h ave n o i nte nti o n of p u rc h a s i n g th e a b s u rd l y p r i c e d i te m s fe atu re d w i th i n, b u t i n s te a d a re look ing for inspiration to f ilte r through our own taste s a nd budgets what about the critic then? Their role then, at least in theor y, becomes heightened; they a re th e m e d i u m b et we e n th e d i s s e m i n ati o n of n ew fo u n d cre ati ve ide a ls a nd the e age r public. T hey unde r sta nd the te c h n i c a l s k i l l, th e fo re s i g ht a n d th e i m ag i n ati o n re q u i re d to produce a truly beautiful collection and can synthesize it a ll into a c olumn to b e und e r sto od, e njoye d a nd e mulate d by th e m a s s e s. B u t i f eve r y d e s i g n e r w i th e n o u g h c l o u t or corporate backing can secure a rave review nay, the reviewers themselves who is left to ensure quality control?

her admittedly bright and witty appearance at the CFDA Awards (held in New York City this year), one journalist a Ms. Cathy Horyn had the misfortune of decrying her choice of wardrobe as making the singer look embalmed a fairly innocuous comment considering the standard of fashion bitchery, to be sure. Yet this unremarkable slight was not forgotten by Gaga, who used her monthly article in V Magazine to denounce Those Who Would Dare To Question Her: in the age of the internet, when collections are and so performances

accessible to the public and anyone can post a review on Facebook or twitter, shouldnt columnists and reviewers, such as cathy horyn, employ a more modern and forward approach to criticism, one that separates them from the average individual at home on their laptop? ... to be fair, ms. horyn, the more critical question to ask is: when did the pretense [sic] of fashion become more important than its influence on a generation? Why have we decided that one persons opinion matters more than anyone elses? The fact that Ms. Hor yn is the Fashion Editor and leading critic for the New York Times, with a masters in journalism and more than 25 years of experience behind her, doesnt even seem to factor into Gagas reaction to said critique; in Communist Gaga, it seems, clothes review YOU.

Lynn Yaeger, lead critic for New York Magazine, puts it best when she asks, How do you prevent your personal feelings about designers from infecting your coverage? How do you review their Fashion Week shows and pass judgment on their work when you know them socially? You do the best you can, but its not easy. Yaeger, like Cathy Horyn, has been barred from previous shows for her tellitlikeitREALLYis approach to critiquing. But some designers have gone further. Tom Ford, a darling of the fashion press and rescuer of no less than two fashion houses in the 80s and 90s, has discouraged reportage from his most recent shows whilst outright banning photography completely. What really intrigues the observer in this situation is that a) the reviews for said shows were, to put it lightly, less than positive and b) his most recent (and most violently critiqued) show was Ready ToWear. This isnt a reluctance to showcase the fantastical flights of his Haute Couture imagination were talking about this is London Spring 2012, where even if it was couture, someone will probably end up wearing it on the streets (Daphne Guinness, Im looking at you). But in order to consume and thereby (not coincidentally) promote, customers might have to, you know, see the clothes first. So is it the prerogative of the guarded artist to snub the fans and press if he smells a whiff of sedition on the air? Or should his show receive the same amount of coverage regardless of its success, feelings be damned? More importantly, what does it say about the fashion industry when only a handful of critics dare to legitimately analyse a collection, and the ones that do risk raising the ire of the designers or gasp! being barred from next seasons attendance completely?

Diane Von Furstenburg chief among them), it will also secure for Vogue a salesbased commission. Style.com will follow suit in November by selling directly to their readers; both are owned by media conglomerate Cond Nast International. While its true that corporate pressure has always dictated a lot of what you eventually see in the pages of your favourite magazines, it might seem as though recently their readers are fast becoming mere browsers of catalogues, paid for by corporate multinationals which aim more to showcase their financiers wares than to inspire genuine debate. Even those at the very top of the fashion foodchain can sprain under the pressure. The notsosecret rumour that dominated the blogosphere in the wake of Carine Roitfelds departure from Vogue Paris was that her recent resignation was actually a firing, curated by advertiser LMVH. The company that owns some of the biggest houses in fashion (Louis Vuitton, Givenchy and Fendi just to name a few) was apparently none too pleased about one of Ms. Roitfelds more recent photo shoots, which featured girls under the age of 12 in heavy makeup and comically adult sized clothing. Their postures werent provocative nor the styling choices lurid even the backless dresses had singlets underneath and it was clear from the title, byline and content of the accompanying article that the images were a satire on the ideal of feminine beauty and the sexualised manifestations thereof. Controversial? Of course. In bad taste? Sure, maybe a little. But compared to previous spreads, some of which have included models in blackface and pregnant women smoking, this is practically Disney. In fact, during her 10 year reign as editor, Ms. Roitfelds deliberate courting of controversy managed to not only restore Vogue Paris credibility amongst the fashion set, it also

probably just a coincidence. Roitfeld herself has spoken candidly about her take on the state and future of fashion, delivering this quip to Der Spiegel magazine in July of this year: "...Toward the end, it unfortunately got less and less fun. You used to be able to be more playful, but now it's all about money, results and big business. The prt porter shows have become terribly serious. The atmosphere isn't as electric as it once was, and they now have about as much charm as a medical conference.

thought that, well, obviously: Ms. Horyn has a widely read newspaper column whose opinions have been proven to be influential, unlike the bevy of web commentators. But then, wouldnt that just prove the point? Because the ultimate Catch22 of online discussion is that even if those unnamed opinions are the most underqualified, you simply cant attack what you cannot see. Yet not all of the responsibility should lie squarely with industry

Whats most ironic about this whole debacle is that the objectivity of Roitfeld as an editor has previously been called into very public question; her payforplay scandal resulted in her being publicly banned from a 2010 Balenciaga show, when it was discovered that she not only took on private consulting jobs for her favourite fashion houses, but that on one occasion an entire Balenciaga precollection had been sent for duplication to one of her clients, Max Mara.

insiders; the motives and meaning of fashion might be a little more obtuse than music or film, but as readers, an increased appreciation for the delicacy of a designers work can only initiate positive change. Consider that what is displayed to us in publication is consumerism in the guise of dreams, as much a triumph of marketing as of artistry; in an age where most of us are aware of this, we happily trade acknowledgement for aesthetic stimulation, and thats okay. But what happens when a designer actually has something to say, something of merit? Because not all of us can devote our lives to fashion even if we

FORM AND FUNCTION If even the scarce few who continue to champion innovation in modern creativity can be caught up in the conga line of back scratching, what does that say about its current value? Has the industry become so networked, so selfreferential that impartiality is actually frowned upon now? In an age where anyone with an internet connection has a forum of potentially millions, what separates opinion from tempered assessment is fast becoming vaguer. The emergence of blanket anonymity as a byproduct of our technological age has allowed countless hordes the opportunity to critique without any of the realworld consequences; thus, when a person with a face, name and reputation does the same, the indignation they experience can sometimes acquire a cumulative effect. Walking the tightrope between fullyfledged interaction with and subsequent analysis of the art and artist is their career, after all they cant just turn off the screen and walk away. Lady Gagas reaction to Cathy Horyns dismay might seem grandiose from our perspective but it is far from abnormal, and what is most telling is how Horyn was subjected to the Wrath of Bad Romance, yet the concurring voices of the disembodied mob were left to their chatter. One might be tempted to counter such a statement with the

continue to feel passionately about it, who can deconstruct its more esoteric flights of fancy to let us know if its worth our time? Because that really seems to be the crux of the matter any designer, by virtue of simply existing and continually producing work, is a genius. But if there are bad musicians, there are bad designers, and wouldnt you want to know before you slip on a new pair of Rebecca Blacks? Its up to us to applaud intelligent review when we see it and not only if its positive. Its up to us to recognise the difference between attitude and wisdom and reward those who display the latter with our attention. As Gaga opined in her column for V: the public operates with the assumption that critics are experts in their respective fields. but are they? does ever y critic have the soul to really receive a work in the transcendental sense? the out ofbody experience of art? a valid question and certainly one that deserves debate. but to really continue this discussion, one cannot ask that question without also asking the following: does ever y artist have the strength to create one? and what could ultimately become the most important question of all: does every publisher, backer and financier in control of modern fashion wish the public to recognise it?

PAY FOR PLAY This apparent inability to take a bad review on the chin might actually be hinting at a larger shift occurring within the fashion press. More and more, magazines are supplementing their revenue by branching out into retail operations; yes, they will now be selling you the clothes that they review. U.S. Vogue has recently partnered up with New Yorkbased Moda Operandi, an ecommerce site that will not only allow Vogues readers to preorder the runway looks of some of their favourite designers online (Derek Lam, Marc Jacobs and

reaped major financial rewards for the magazines investors. Jonathan Newhouse, CEO of Cond Nast, confirms as much in a statement released last year: It is impossible to overstate Carine's powerful contribution to Vogue and to the fields of fashion and magazine publishing... Under her direction, Vogue Paris received record levels of circulation and advertising and editorial success and has established itself as one of the most iconic magazines in the world." The fact that his company reported unhappiness with the amount of space devoted to their ads, hence threatening to withdraw their backing completely, is

En Vie

28

accessories

Jiro k amata's ContemPorary Jewelry

tex t / l E i Photography / J i RO K A M AtA

maldives & shady Pendant

b l u e - g r e e n I n d i a n o c ea n , s m a l l islands shaped like the shell of a s ea t u r t l e, s e e m i ng l y sw i m m i ng towa r d s m e w i t h i t s h u n d r e d s of yea r s of p a t i e nc e a n d g r ac e. years later, i t i s Ji r o Ka m a t a's l e n s es t h a t r e p r es e nt sc e n e, look i ng window. the u n fo r g et t a b l e ag a i n tou c h i ng plane o nc e

000

m ete r s

b e low

is on

the the

J i ro K a m at a i s n ot a p h oto g r a p h e r, b u t a Ja p a n e s e -b o r n, G e r m a nyb a s e d j ewe l r y d e s i g n e r. H oweve r, his enthusiasm about lenses is by no me a ns le s s tha n a ny photo gra phe r. Not because he only uses old lenses to c re ate his wor ks bu t b e c ause he unleashes the potential values of old l e n s e s to s p a r k v i ewe r s o r j ewe l r y we a re r s i m a g i n ati o n s. I n h i s m i n d, the camera lens is not merely a cold o b s e r ve r b u t a m e m o r y c o l l e c to r, w h i c h ke e p s th e g a m u t of fe e l i n g s w r i t te n o n th e h u m a n f a c e, th e

b e a u t y of th e e a r th a n d s k i e s th at m a n h a s i n h e r i te d, a n d th e we a l th and confusion that man has created. T hose old le nse s, Kamata be lieve s, a l l to l d o w n t h e i r p a r t i c u l a r s to r y. Old lenses used in my jewelr y p r o b a b l y h av e b e e n w i t h s o m e p e o p l e f o r m a n y y e a r s, w i t n e s s e d how their family c h a n g e d, or w e r e p e r h a p s u s e d to c a tc h g r e a t h isto r i c a l m o m e nts like th e re u n i o n of East and West Germany, Kamata explained.

m a l d i ves .

res t i ng

m e ju s t l ike t h e mo m e nt I wa s t h r ou g h the

 B e h i n d l e n s e s, yo u n eve r k n ow what has ever happened, and that`s what I think makes a piece of jewelr y truly valuable. W h e n K a m at a fo u n d th e o l d l e n s e s to h ave a u n i q u e va l u e, s u c h a s c l a s s i c a l g r a m o p h o n e re c o rd s. A s his admirer, I might find another way to e n j oy h i s wo r ks, th at i s, th ro u g h his lenses. I saw a dif ferent world. At

f i r s t s i g ht of h i s c o l l e c ti o n, S h ad y Pe n d a nt , i t re m i n d e d m e of a n a m a z i n g s e a v i ew of th e M a l d i ve s, only more expressive and romantic. H oweve r, a s th e n a m e s u g g e s te d, those tur tle shell-like islands turned o u t to b e f l i c ke r i n g s h ad ows of trees. It i s q u i te i nte re sti n g to re a l i ze th at the wor ld c ould b e re ad in so ma ny

ways if we just change the place we s t a n d o r p ay f u l l at te nti o n to w h at we see, be it illusions or reflections. A s l o n g a s we a re tr u l y l o o k i n g, w h eth e r w i th eye s, a m o n o c l e o n th e n o s e, th e l e n s of a c a m e r a i n yo u r h a n d s, o r th e i m a g e s K a m at a h a s c re ate d, we m ay se e th e w h o l e wo r l d i n eve n a ti ny g r a i n of s a n d, j u s t a s J i ro K a m at a fo u n d s to r i e s through his lenses.

En Vie

32

bike accessory

marilyn 219

luXury bike helmets

tex t / ROWA n M A H O n E Y

w
by andre a Cardone

hen Italian leather accessories company andrea Cardone decided to modernize their company

uses their 50 years of experience to craf t luxurious leather h e l m ets w i th b o l d a n d d et a i l e d g r a p h i c d e s i g n s, s u c h a s a p o p -a r t l a d e n h o m a g e to M a r i l y n M o n ro e o r th e s l e e k d e li c acy of th e ir S wa rovs k i e d i ti o n. Reta ilin g fo r 219 a nd 259 re s p e cti ve l y, they a re the p e r fe ct life long addition to the woman-about-towns wardrobe. All helmets are sold on tendanceinsolente.com

via a younger market and worldwide distribution, the anticipation was palpable. Needless to say, the hype was justified and since 2004 their strate g y has re sulte d in a b e au tif ul line of qua lit y he lmets. C a u s i n g q u i te a b u z z at i n d u s tr y s h owc a s e s, C a rd o n e

En Vie

35

boots

the hunt for Quality

hunter's luXury rainboots
tex t / ROWA n M A HOn E Y

swarovski 259

ts not every day that the new It shoe designers have a 155-year legacy and

a seal of approval from the Queen of england. S c ot ti s h b r a n d H u nte r i s d o m i n ati n g th e w i nte r fo ot we a r tre n d w i th th e i r l ate s t d e s i g n, th e C a r n a by B o a S n a ke. Ad d th e i r u s e of a n e m b o s s e d, s n a ke -s k i n p at te r n f i n i s h to th e i r q u i c k d r y l i n i n g, a n or thopedic fit and the spongy bounce that youve come to expect of a Wellington and th i s b o ot- l i ke c re ati o n b e c o m e s p e r fe c t for those who believe comfor t need not be sacrificed in the name of fashion. Retailing for 169 or from w w w.hunter-boot.com

En Vie

36

iphone accessory

CalyPso handmade iPhone Case

tex t / DR Ag iC A C H A S H i A n D C H R i S ROA f images / C our tesy of Calypsocr ystal.com

carelessly in your pocket and the nex t time you take it out , and have an ugly scratch on the screen? have you had your joy at owning a brand new toy, only to have it ruined like this? A nyone who has had this problem can rest easily. T he re is a fashionable and be autiful solution. Ele gant and st ylish, Calypso Cr ystal's range of iPhone case s are made from pre mium Italian le athe r. T he re is a suppor ted light titanium frame to keep your device completely free from nicks and scrapes. Handcrafting each case takes several days and the team at Calypso Crystal do not compromise

s there any thing more frustrating when you have a brand new gadget , than to put it

the safet y of your phone. Ever y case is rigorously assembled to not only give you piece of mind, but also a piece of ar t. If you want a cover as gorgeous as the gizmo inside look no further. Per fectly designed to slip comfor tably over your iPhone, Blackberr y or Samsung Gala x y. However Calypso don't only make cases, they also have a beautiful line of traditionally hand milled glass docks. Only the purest crystal glass is made into four unique designs, which can be used to charge your devices or sync them with a desk top computer. Now you will be able to read your copy of En Vie on a perfect pristine screen. Everyone who has ever suffered the sadness of a scratch, your solution is at hand.

En Vie

38

sex y lingerie

dress best, dress less

Photography / R i K S A n C H E z / rikosaka.blogspot.com Models / S A S A l iM Ei & MOE:t lingerie / M A l i A R DO BY M i M i / w w w.maliard.com location / Bar & lounge l A u R A n t / w w w.opefac.com / laurant translation / A M A n DA RO l l i n S

maliardo by mimi.

ove

Casino of

is

the

new from

gloss silk and come in two main colors, black and red. The collection includes bras, panties, tangas, gar ters, and corset-style blouses. The designs in this collection are reminiscent of Las Vegas in the 60s, classic and not over-revealing. These pieces manage to strike a balance between being sexy without becoming lewd and being playful without becoming ironic. Though a little too spelled-out, the playful spirit of the clothes is expressed in accessories shaped like gaming objects, dice and playing cards. The

corset-style blouses and bra and panty sets incorporate a tuxedo motif that bolsters the collections classic casino theme. Maliardos new collection is fun and seductive. Lingerie is the first layer that touches a womans body and usually the last layer that anyone else sees, but there is confidence in concealing the nature of ones sexuality under an outer shell. Maliardos Love Casino gives women an opportunity to express that sexuality boldly.

collection

lingerie

the osaka-

based brand was established by miwako shimada in 2 010 and is produced exclusively in Japan. maliardo is Italian for charming, a fit ting name for a brand whose concept is to help women find their own charm. The Love Casino line is, as the name suggests, based on a casino theme. The garments are made of fine high-

En Vie

40

fashion photography

Cant beat a ClassiC

Photography & tex t / tA i K A n A r tistic Direrector / M. W ROB l E W S K A S t ylist / JAC q u E l i n E A n YA n W u Make-up and Hair / M u t S u M i S H i B A R A Model / Magdalena @ Just

collaboration M.

bet we en

visionar y and

ar tistic light

between life, love and dreams, and the beauty of what the future may hold. T he enigmatic combination of individualit y, fashion, st yle and at titude is what make s a classic. Whether it's a model, st yling, music or ae sthetics, the classic is a constant that represents an unchanging ideal.

director

Wroblewska

natural

specialist Taikan, this editorial follows the fre e flowing, yet quirk y and imposing essence that is the heart of English Rock n Roll. Shot against the backdrop of Kensington, this stor y traverse s and encapsulate s a journey

En Vie

44

esmod news

esmod JaPon news

dec. 1st (thu) 14:00 - 16:00 speach seminar by the principal of esmod paris Christine Walter Bonini, the principal of Esmod Paris, is coming to Esmod Osaka for a seminar. The main theme will be "Necessary of mode". It's admission free, please feel free to join this event.

Christine walter bonini After graduating EFAP in Paris, Christine Walter Bonini worked for CERRUTI. She was in charge of public relations for SEHM men's wear international exhibition for 15 years and established a new salon for young creators. In 1998 she established the CASABO international young creators salon. She was in charge of academic, art and public relations since 2005. After 2 years, she became the principal of Esmod Paris.

Contact us for application and more details: www.esmodjapon.co.jp tel : 06-6539-5555 mail : osaka@esmodjapon.co.jp

En Vie

46

sixties style

tex t & Make up A r tist / S H E R i V Eg A S / owner of Miss Vegas makeup bar Model / K E E lY t H u R EC H t @ vivens models Photography / ROBY n f R A z E R S t ylist / K At H Y t H u R EC H t Hair S t ylist / K E E l A n MC g i l l

60

s insPirations
simplicity of the images and the model. The team that we pulled together was ideal for this and they all understood what we were trying to achieve. T he inspiration for the shoot came from old school Holly wood 60s-style glamour. Where the hair reaches the heavens and the lashes are full and thick with the jet-black liner that adorned the vixens of the screen back then.

had been dreaming of this concept and it had been developing in my sub-conscious for some time. I

finally found the team who could make it happen and it was exhilarating to see the end result. I was looking to develop a dif ferent look to what Id done before and wanted to carr y the look through all the details in the shoot: makeup, hair, clothe s, the black and white

I wanted these black and white images to seem like stills taken from a classic Audrey Hepburn movie set in Rome or some far of f destination, with elements of a Scarlett Johannson-esque contemporary feel. I love the tone and fe el of the image s, and I think both the strength and fe mininit y from the womens movement of the 1960s elicits an emotional response from the audience which can be felt for todays modern woman; strength, be aut y, elegance and a simple femininity. I wanted to tell a stor y through the image s. I star ted the developme nt with simple eye s and had the model convey a true 19 60 s fe el. To add complexit y as we moved through the shoot, we added definition and strength to the eyes and changed the hair st yling to reflect dif ferent moods. To show dif ferent aspects of fashion and life, each outfit change was designed to almost move through my favourite images when I think of the six ties. However, there is also a modern element in each photo which blends in a contemporar y touch with the classic 60's style.

blood

type

horosCope
BY IzUMI
illustration A n n A JA S i n S K i w w w.annajasinski.com

vIrGo 8/23-9/22

Blood type O Virgoans work hard and have great wisdom, preferring to think

AB

Blood

type

AB

Sagittarians

have

better

temperament and they would love to spend time just

thinking, however their impatience means that they are apt to proceed blindly without thinking things through. They only show their true feelings and passion to their close friends and lovers.

and plan well before making any decisions. Because of this they may seem rather cool on first impression but, in fact, they have a warm side. Whether man or woman they

CaprICorn 12/22-1/19

arIes 3/21 4/19

The most active and aggressive Aries are those with Blood type O. They are straight

talking and direct. Most of them have a strong sense of justice and like to help people. They are efficient and dislike hesitation. They have a better chance of being a good leader than the other Aries blood types.

AB

B l o o d Ty p e A B A r i e s i s n ot l i ke a t y p i c a l A r i e s a s th ey a re c a ref u l a n d th o u g ht f u l, b u t

s o m eti m e s th ey b e c o m e ve r y p a s s i o n ate. B l o o d t y p e A B t a ke s g re at p r i d e i n l e ad e r s h i p a n d th ey p refe r to issue orders rather than be commanded by others.

ZodiaC & blood tyPes

this month we Present you the bloodtyPes 0 and ab (for a and b see last issue)
CanCer 6/22-7/22

AB

are pure and romantic. Blood type AB Virgoans have big difference in their outer appearance to what lies inside. Their

Ca pricorn's stubbornness combined with the temper of blood type O means you

will it difficult to persuade them to change any decision they have made. They have the never give up spirit however hopeless the situation. There is a heart full of passion and humor under their cold and somewhat serious faces. Blood type AB Capricorn is forward-looking and they are often engaged in some special or unique type

emotions can be erratic which makes them sometimes do surprising things. But most of the time they are good obser vers who are able to keep watch of the details and analyse the situation.

lIbra 9/23-10/23

AB
Blood type O Librans have a lot of passion and consideration, which

of work. In which they are they work hard and have a strong resilience. If they have a clear aim they will never lose confidence.

makes them the perfect lady or gentleman. They have enough courage to be themselves completely. They can be divided into two types: those that are indecisive and those that can distinguish right from wrong. Blood type AB Libra is gentle and always smiling. They are thoughtful, careful and have an ability to aQuarIus 1/20-2/18

B l o o d Ty p e O Aq u a r i a n s h ave a g re at c o nf i d e n c e a n d b r i g ht m i n d.

AB

Ef f i c i e nt, d i l i g e nt a n d i nte l l i g e nt, th ey n eve r s ti c k to e s t a b l i s h e d p r a c ti c e s. Fr i e n d s h i p i s ve r y i m p o r t a nt of th e m. T h ey w i l l t a ke c a re of th e i r f r i e n d s i n many small ways. B l ood t ype AB Aquarius is an iceberg as there is almost nothing that can ef fect their

judge calmly. A born natural for social activities, they have excellent dress sense and impeccable manners.

taurus 4/20-5/20

B l o o d t y p e O Ta u re a n s h ave a s te ad y te m p e r but because of

th e i r te n d e n cy to h e s i t ate th ey a re a pt to m i s s m a ny o p p o r tu n i ti e s. Pati e n c e i s th e i r u n i q u e ad va nt a g e s b e c a u s e a l th o u g h th ey a re n ot a c ti ve a s A r i e s they avoid making mistakes.

Blood type O Cancerians only pay attention to the things they care about.

sCorpIo 10/24-11/22

Their personality is straight and honest and they have a very good memory and a strong conscience, making them ver y protective family and friends. They often try new things and bring much colour in to their lives.

AB
is a

Blood

t ype

Scorpio

emotions, but beware; they can change suddenly and completely. Freedom flows in their blood and respect the freedom of others treating all people and animals alike.

combination of self-love and self-

confidence. This makes it very difficult for them to show exuberance and jubilation. They are trustwor thy and loyal in love and no matter how dif ficult they do what they promised. But this is a Doubleedged sword for it is never certain whether they are truly committed or just stubborn.

AB

Blood type AB Taureans have strong emotions, but despite that their ability to communicate is

their strong point. They will often take a stand and show much empathy and understanding. On the ar tistic side they are more sensitive than other Taureans.

AB

pIsCes 2/19-3/20

There is only one word that can describe Blood t y p e A B C a n c e re a n s: my s te r i o u s. T h ey l i ke to

give a good impression but also keep their distance from p e o p l e. T h ey l i ke to s t a n d a l o n e b u t at th e s a m e ti m e expected others to understand them.

There is nobody nicer in the world than blood type O Pisces. Their hearts are

full of romance, fantasy and compassion. Most of them love animals and nature and will be the first one to stand up against anything they consider to be unfair. Type O gives courage to Pisceans, enabling them to get over any hard times they may have in their lives.

AB

Blood type AB Scorpians are a complex character. Whenever they can they will sit alone

GemInI 5/21-6/21

leo 7/23-8/22 W h e n b l o o d t y p e O G e m i n is a re under a lot of pressure they are able

in a corner, keeping silent and being mysterious. In doing so they can see the truth in the complexity of things and see how it all fits together.

to stick to their guns and keep focused o n th e i r g o a l. T h ey a re s e n s i ti ve to fads and fashions and new ideas. T heir c h a rac te r is a s p li t p e r s o n a li t y of qui et and active at the same time.

B l o o d Ty p e O Le o i s ve r y s i m i l a r to O t y p e A r i e s: f u l l of v i t a l i t y a n d

e n e rg y. T h e i r f l ex i b i l i t y i n wo r k m e a n s th at th ey b r i n g a b r i g ht p e r s o n a l i t y a n d h ave a p os i ti ve ef fe c t o n th e oth e r te a m m e m b e r s. T h ey e a s i l y fo rg i ve th e m i s t a ke s of oth e r s a n d h ave g o o d leadership qualities. saGIttarIus 11/23-12/21

AB

Blood type AB Pisces are very changeable; their moods are easily affected by their environment. Many

of them are talented in the arts and they are good designers. They are more sensitive than other type of Pisces. But because their characters are erratic they easily contradict themselves.

Blood type O in Sagittarius really exaggerates their characteristics.

AB

They like to help those in the fight against injustice and never make a compromise when the demands are unreasonable. Blood type O type brings a proactive mind and what Sagittarius dislikes most is constraint in their world. They need to release their minds and let their dreams fly freely in the sky.

B l o o d t y p e A B G e m i n i s h a v e a s t r o n g abilit y for studying and understanding.

T h ey c a n a b s o r b k n ow l e d g e q u i c ke r a n d m o re e a s i l y than other people. When they do a job they enjoy

AB

B l o o d t y p e A B Le o s h ave m o re p r i d e th a n oth e r Le o s b u t th ey n eve r s h ow th e i r a n g e r.

luCky numbers of the ZodiaC

aries: 9 cancer: 2 Libra: 6 caPricorn: 8 taurus: 6 Lion: 1 scorPion: 9 aquarius: 4 Gemini: 5 virGo: 5 saGittarius: 3 Pisces: 7

They like to be the focus of praise. If they wanted, they could be on the stage, as their star qualit y gives them the ability to make a success of their lives.

they can be full of inspiration and new ideas. Lack of p ati e n c e i s th e i r we a k n e s s.