Amsterdam

N03 - 2.
95
amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
aMStERdaM
Winter 2011/2012
discover ajax
Amsterdams latest
must see experience
amsterdam-Noord
Take a free ferry across the
River IJ to another world
CONTENTS
3
CONTENTS
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Winter 2011/2012 amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Foreword 4
A few words from the editor
Arriving in Amsterdam 5
How to get to your hotel
Basics 6
Getting to grips with Amsterdam
History 8
The citys past on two pages
Culture & Events 10
Concerts, exhibitions and events
Where to stay 16
Beds for backpackers and business executives
Restaurants 20
The Dutch have much more to offer than cheese
Cafs 30
Classic cafs and high tea
Nightlife 32
Bars, pubs, clubs and cafs
Discover all that the North of Amsterdam has to offer on the
other side of the River IJ on p.66. Photo: Amsterdam-Noord
Contents
Gay Amsterdam 42
A guide to gay-friendly Amsterdam
High Times in Holland 44
How to smoke legally and responsibly
Sightseeing 48
Museums, churches and other sights
Getting around 56
Bikes, boats and trains
List of small features
Red Light streets 41
Drugs, tourists & Politicians 47
Wee bag 55
Amsterdam for kids 61
Football: Ajax matches 62
Rivalry and Christmas trees 65
Directory
Shopping 58
Sports & Leisure 62
Lifestyle directory 64
Maps & Index
Restaurant, coffeeshop and nightlife index 70
Old centre map 71
Amsterdam city centre map 72
Netherlands map 74
Old centre street register 75
The rich history of Amsterdams 111-year-old football
club is now brought to life in the recently opened Ajax
Experience on busy Rembrandt Square. Test your own
football skills, discover the history of the team, view
sacred club artefacts and peruse plenty of merchandise.
Read more on p.63. Photo courtesy of Ajax Images
4
FOREWORD
Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Editorial
Editorial team Martins Zaprauskis
(martins@inyourpocket.com) &
Theo Leerintveld (theo.leerintveld@
inyourpocket.com)
Contributors Peter van Lent, Pete Wu,
Rivkah Zeeman & Joep van Aert
Research Theo Leerintveld & Lies
Heessels
Layout & Design Martins Zaprauskis
Photos T.Leerintveld, M. Zaprauskis,
Rolien Beute and Lya Cattel. Others
courtesy of Amsterdam Toerisme &
Congres Bureau (ATCB) Ajax Images
and various concert organisers
Cover illustration Jurjen Bertens
Sales & Circulation
Advertising Rick Blom & Arnold
Gruppen: info@minicards.com, (+31)
207 71 41 86.
Circulation Minicards V.O.F.
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright In Your
Pocket Netherlands 2011 - 2012.
Maps copyright cartographer. All rights
reserved. No part of this publication
may be reproduced in any form, except
brief extracts for the purpose of review,
without written permission from the
publisher and copyright owner. The
brand name In Your Pocket is used under
license from UAB In Your Pocket: Vokieciu
10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania.
Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearl y marked as such. We welcome all
readers comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
the accuracy of the information at the
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In Your Pocket Netherlands
Weikesstraat 21
5335 LE
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tel. (+31) 653 79 91 46
amsterdam@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 2211-2480
In Your Pocket Netherlands
Printed by Microdot in the EU
Published four times per year
120,000 copies annuall y
Although we have a whole library of beau-
tiful photos, we decided to commission
something special for this winters edition
and Dutch artist Jurjen Bertens was hap-
py to help. He confided in us that he often
finds inspiration for his work in the streets
and canals of Dutch cities including his
native Utrecht. Find more of his work at
www.jurjen.org.
Cover story
Its hard to believe that six months have passed since we
printed our first issue of Amsterdam In Your Pocket back
in June. The old adage time flies when youre having fun
seems to hold true and although weve traded our sunny
canalside seats at summer terraces for glhwein (mulled
wine) and poffertjes (small Dutch pancakes) at holiday
markets and ice skating rinks, the Dutch capital is no less
alluring to us. Although the weather isnt to everyones
liking, including the Dutch, there are plenty of places to
escape the biting wind and the bone-chilling damp. We
always recommend a lazy day spent at an age-old brown
bar, but if youre a bit more ambitious than a slothful travel
writer who maybe enjoys his beer a little too much, then try
one of the ice skating rinks on Museumplein, Leidse-
plein or the Westergasfabriek for some winter sport and
Amsterdam atmosphere. If football is more your speed
then find the ideal bar to watch a match, visit the Arena for
an Ajax game or head over to the new Ajax Experience on
Rembrandt Square. Finally, if the touristy inner city doesnt
appeal to you then take a free ferry to Noord and experi-
ence a little-known district that will impress with both its
natural beauty and cutting-edge architecture.
It was a busy 2011 for In Your Pocket, with new
guides published in Bulgaria (Veliko Turnovo),
Netherlands (Amsterdam, Tilburg, Utrecht and
Sittard-Geleen), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia
(ibenik), in Switzerland (Zurich), Slovenia
(Posavje) and in Belarus (Minsk); 2012 promises
to deliver many more new Pockets.
The number of cities we cover has now climbed
past 70, and the number of In Your Pocket
guides published each year is approaching an
amazing five million. To keep up to date, like
In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/
inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/
inyourpocket). You can also now follow our tips on
Foursquare (foursquare.com/inyourpocket).
The World of In Your Pocket
Czech
Republic
Poland
Romania
Serbia
Bosnia
Kosovo
Albania
Greece
FYR Macedonia
Bulgaria
Montenegro
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Latvia
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Northern
Ireland
Ireland
Newsstand
I had a good browse of the Amsterdam guide - I know
the city well. Practical things, such as getting around, are
covered in great detail and look bang up to date. Reviews
of places to eat and drink are plentiful and knowledgeable,
and there are informative reads on subjects such as Ajax
football club and the latest situation on smoking cannabis
in the citys coffeeshops. I also liked the authors on-
location video introductions to many of the sections in the
online version of the guide.
The Daily Mail, August 24, 2011
FOREWORD
VVV Tourist information F-3, Central Station
(Platform 2b), tel. (+31) 90 04 00 40 40, www.
iamsterdam.com. The information centre in the train
station can get quite crowded, so you might want to
just cross the street and enter the white building to find
yet another official information centre. Take some bro-
chures, buy a guide or take a number if youd like to talk
to a staff member. They can give you ideas and advice
about excursions, set you up with a map and help with
plenty of other pressing questions. The office to the left
can explain the public transportation system and sell you
tickets for trams and buses. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Also at A-1,
Stationsplein 10; Schiphol Airport (Arrivals 2). JA
Tourist information
5
ARRIVING IN AMSTERDAM
Arriving in Amsterdam is simple and no matter what mode
of transportation you choose nearly all roads lead to the
Amsterdam Central Station right in the heart of the city.
From here its usually only a short walk or tram ride to your
hotel or hostel.
By plane
Amsterdam Airport Schiphol (AMS) is located less than 10km
southwest of the city centre. Its one of the busiest airports
in Europe receiving 48 million passengers each year, but
its easy to navigate and pleasantly efficient. Youll find your
luggage at one of 15 baggage belts and luggage trolleys are
abundant and free. If youre planning on taking the train to
Amsterdam, which is the easiest way to reach the city centre,
you might want to buy a ticket at one of the yellow and blue
machines next to the conveyor belts while youre waiting for
your suitcase. The machines are fairly self-explanatory and
available in English and you can pay for the short journey with
a credit or bankcard. Once you clear customs youll enter the
large arrivals hall, which is essentially part airport, part train
station, part shopping centre and part food court. Although
located under one roof, the building is divided, nominally at
least, into terminals 1 - 4. Just walk straight to the main hall
to find most services that you might need including trans-
portation to the city. An official tourist information centre
is available in terminal 2 (open 07:00 - 22:00). Luggage
storage and lockers are available downstairs between
terminals 1 and 2. Lockers cost 6/24hrs and you can pay
with a card or with coins. You can also leave your bags at
the storage office for the same price, but its only open from
06:15 - 22:45. A small bank of lockers is also available on the
ground floor between terminals 3 and 4. Banks, currency
exchanges and ATMs are plentiful so you wont have any
problems getting money.
Getting to town: If youd like a taxi, then head to the far
right of the arrivals hall after clearing customs and youll find a
Travel Taxi office where you can order a cab and watch some
TV until they call your name. Buses and hotel shuttles are
available outside the terminal. Just walk straight through the
arrivals hall and youll see the stops outside with the names
of the citys biggest hotels that operate their own shuttles.
Each chain has its own schedule, which is clearly marked at
the stop. You can also take the blue Connexxion Schiphol
Hotel (www.connexxion.nl) shuttle that stops at a number of
large hotels along a planned route. A very long list of hotels is
posted at the stand. A single ticket costs 15.50 and children
4 - 14 travel for half price. If your hotel isnt listed its possible
that it can be arranged. City bus Nr.197 departs regularly for
Leidseplein in the centre of Amsterdam as do other buses
to a variety of other destinations in Amsterdam.
If youre like most people you wont even leave the ter-
minal and youll head downstairs to catch a fast train that
will take you to Amsterdam Central Station in 15 minutes for
only 3.70. Just walk into the main hall to find a list of train
departures. If you havent already bought a ticket you can
purchase one from one of the many ticket machines with
a credit card. Just choose English as your language on the
touch-screen then choose the following steps: single, des-
tination A.Centraal, 2nd class, full fare, valid today and the
number of tickets. Choose your method of payment, insert
your credit card, enter your PIN, confirm the price and then
wait for your ticket to be printed. Once you reach the Central
Station see Arriving by train. You can also buy train tickets
at the Train Tickets & Services office but youll pay an extra
0.50. Q
Schiphol Amsterdam Airport Evert v/d Beekstraat
202, tel. (+31) 207 94 08 00/09 00 01 41, www.
schiphol.nl.
By train
Amsterdams Central Station is a monumental building that
was completed in 1889. Although an incredible achievement
in its own right, it was later criticised by urban planners for
having cut off the city of canals from its most essential
waterway, the River IJ. Prior to its construction many of the
citys historic cafs were afforded an impressive vista of
ships masts bobbing up and down in the distance. Today,
the massive edifice and its surroundings are a bit of a mess
as the station is being renovated and retrofitted to accom-
modate a controversial new metro line.
Youll arrive at one of 15 platforms and then walk down-
stairs into the central hall, which is full of newsstands, kiosks,
fast food restaurants and shops. A GWK Travelex (www.
gwktravelex.nl - open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00)
currency exchange and an ATM are available near the
south city centre side between platforms 1/2 and 4/5. For
toilets that cost 0.50 you have to go up to platform 2. At
the far end of the same platform are a Burger King, Ben &
Jerrys, an upmarket restaurant called 1e Klas (1st Class)
and a bar, Caf Balkon.
For tourist information we recommend you exit the
building on the city centre side and walk across the street
to the official VVV tourist information centre (see Tourist
information). Lockers for luggage storage are located on
the far east side of the station, but it might take a while to
find an empty locker and even more time to figure out how
to use one. You can only pay with a credit card. Place your
belongings in a locker and close the door. Find the nearest
keypad that corresponds with the numbered section of lock-
ers you have chosen. Confirm that the locker number listed is
the locker you have chosen and then swipe your credit card.
Just stick it in the slot and pull it out. A ticket good for 24
hours will be printed. When you want to remove your luggage
just place the ticket into the slot and the door of your locker
will automatically open.
Getting to town: You are in the very centre of town and
all of Amsterdam lays before you. Many of the citys best, and
worst, hotels are only a short walk from here, but if youre
staying in another section of town such as the Museum
District you can take one of the many trams outside. Buy
a ticket from the driver for 2.60. He will activate the card
for you, but you have to place it up against one of the ticket
readers upon exiting the tram. If you plan on using public
transport frequently in Amsterdam it might be worth buying
an extended ticket. Exit the train station and walk across the
street to the GVB office (open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00
- 18:00) to the left of tourist information to buy tickets. Free
ferries to Amsterdam-Noord are available on the north side
of the station on the River IJ. Q
6
BASICS
BASICS
Read on and find out why the Dutch allow people to smoke
joints, but not to operate a bicycle while intoxicated. Plenty of
other fun facts about the Netherlands are available here.
Alcohol
Amsterdam is famous for its cafs and restaurants so youre
never far from a tasty brew or a glass of wine. Heineken,
Amstel and Bavaria are the nations biggest brewers but
other large local brands include Grolsch and Hertog Jan. A
wide variety of excellent Belgian brews are also on offer at
most bars, but keep an eye out for cafs selling beer from
Amsterdams own microbreweries t IJ and De Prael. No trip
to Amsterdam would be complete without a visit to one of the
ancient bars at the beginning of the Zeedijk that specialise
in locally distilled liqueurs and Dutch gin known as jenever.
You must be at least 16 years old to drink beer or wine and
18 to imbibe spirits. If you look too young youll be carded, so
always bring identification. This holds true for supermarkets
and off-licences, too. If youre a little too tipsy youll probably
be asked (firmly, yet kindly) to leave the premises and if you
dont cooperate you could end up spending a night sobering
up in a drunk tank. Q
Climate
Its usually cold and wet in winter and often warm and dry
in summer, but, unfortunately, you never really know. On
the bright side every season has its charms. Whatever the
weather, the Dutch will always find a reason to complain
about it and if youre ever short on subjects to talk about
with a local then the rather trivial statement Lekker weer
(nice weather, dont you think?) is probably sufficient to get
him started on a long and wordy rant. Q
Cycling
Being one of the smaller nations in the world, which is basi-
cally as flat as a pancake, the Netherlands is an attractive
country for cyclists. Add to that an unbelievable selection of
cycling paths and youll see why the Dutch love their bikes so
much. Unfortunately, riding a bike in big cities like Amsterdam
can still be a nerve-racking experience. Cars, trucks, trams,
buses, scooters and even pedestrians can all serve as ter-
rifying obstacles that seem to pop up into your field of vision
from nowhere, but other cyclists can also be just as big of
a danger. Although parents are confident enough in bicycle
safety to attach carts to their bikes to transport their children
around town, loads of other cyclists ignore traffic rules and
basically ride wherever they like often causing mayhem on
the streets. Q
Drugs
It comes as no surprise that in many places in the Nether-
lands youre allowed to buy and smoke marijuana and other
soft drugs. And you may have also heard that dealing or
possessing hard drugs is forbidden. You can be arrested for
it and punishments are no laughing matter. Soft drugs are
sold exclusively at so-called coffeeshops so dont buy them
on the streets. These products are often not inspected and
may be adulterated with unknown rubbish. Again, dealing is
forbidden. Stay wise and limit yourself to the coffeeshops
and get high responsibly. Q
Facts & Figures
Population: 16.7 million (in 2010).
Longest rivers: Rijn (Rhine) and Maas (Meuse).
Highest point: Vaalserberg (323m).
Length of Dutch coastline: 451km.
Amsterdam: Capital of the Netherlands.
Amsterdam population: 750,677 (in 2011).
Habits
No, most Dutch people dont wear clogs to works and not
everybody cultivates tulips, makes cheese or works in a
windmill. That the Dutch are busybodies has been known
for centuries. In the Dutch Golden Age, the Dutch East
India Company spread its tentacles across the world and
this trading spirit is still a part of the local mentality. The
largest part of the population works in financial services
or the retail trade. Bargaining when you buy something in a
shop or at a market is not customary and you can expect
surprised expressions from shop staff if you do. The Dutch
are generally friendly, but they may strike you as reserved.
When people meet each other, they shake hands; friends kiss
each other three times on the cheek: left, right, left. Dutch
men are not too attentive, although they may remember to
hand you your coat and let ladies go first. Q
Heal th & Safety
Amsterdam is a relatively safe city for both residents and
tourists, but you should watch out for pickpockets and shady
people offering drugs. Obviously, dont leave your belongings
unattended and use common sense. There is a large police
presence on the streets, especially around the Red Light
District. It sounds silly, but people do occasionally fall into
canals, sometimes with their bikes. Bicycle theft is fairly
common which is why most rental companies offer insurance
and require security deposits. Q
Winter day in the Jordaan Amsterdam Toerisme
& Congres Bureau (ATCB)
McDonalds Big Mac 3.25 $4.34 2.77
Loaf of white bread 0.55 $0.73 0.47
Snickers bar 0.75 $1.00 0.64
0.7L of vodka 7.99 $10.66 6.81
0.5L bottle of local beer 0.54 $0.72 0.46
20 Marlboros 4.80 $6.41 4.09
Public transport ticket 2.60 $3.47 2.22
Cinema ticket 9.00 $12.01 7.67
1l of petrol 1.55 $2.07 1.32
Exchange rates (as of 10.12.2011)
US$1 - 0.75, 1 - 1.17, 100 - 0.96, AUD$1 - 0.76
Market values
BASICS
7
BASICS
For more practical information and
free downloads visit
Post
Look for the orange TNT signs around town to find post
offices. The most central and largest location is on the
Singel. See below.
TNT (Post Office) F-5, Singel 250, www.tntpost.nl. You
can buy stamps at most newsstands and drop off your post-
cards in the orange TNT boxes around town in the overige slot
or go straight to these centrally located post offices. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A
Prostitution
It may surprise you to know that the profession that has
helped to make Amsterdam a household word across the
globe, only became legal in 2000. For years, the Dutch did
what they always do when confronted with a sticky social
problem. The police simply turned a blind eye to the prac-
tice and tolerated it. The cops in the Red Light district only
rousted sex workers i f they became too aggressive with
passers-by showing off body parts or tapping on the glass.
Today, window shopping on the Oudezijds Achterburgwal is
a popular tourist attraction, but please bear in mind that
these ladies are their to make a living and are not part of
some open-air zoo. Be respectful and, whatever you do,
dont take any photographs up close. Use a zoom lens from
a distance if you want some photographic evidence of your
visit to Europes erotic pleasure capital. Q
Smoking
Until recently, smoking was very common in the Netherlands.
Since the introduction of the ban on smoking in public places
on 1 July 2008, smoking has become a lot less common.
This is partially because the government started a huge
campaign to make people aware of the effects of smoking
on their health. These days you can have a wild night out and
come home without your hair and clothes reeking of cigarette
smoke. For some this is an enormous benefit and others
(read: smokers) find it a pain and banish themselves to the
many smokers rooms in the country. Thanks to unclear rules
you may suddenly find yourself in a smoke-filled pub. This is
usually in bars with just a single staff member: the boss. Or
you may find yourself in a pub that flouts the ban on smoking.
This will not have any consequences for you. If you light a
cigarette in a pub and the manager tolerates this, then the
manager will receive a fine upon inspection. The Netherlands
is of course also known for its wafts of marijuana. For more
information see Drugs. Q
Tipping
Tipping, if deserved, is up to the diner and both 10% or a
rounding up of the bill is acceptable. Naturally, most wait
staff prefer cash. Q
Toilets
There are few public toilets in the Netherlands, but if youre
lucky enough to find one you can recognise if its for Ladies
(Dames) or Gents (Heren) by a symbol or a word on the door.
When you have to go badly, its not generally accepted to
simply barge into a caf or restaurant. If you do, staff will
appreciate if you ask in advance if you may use the toilet.
If you see a saucer by the toilets, then youre expected to
donate a small amount of money for toilet maintenance; 20
or 50 cents is fine. Theres an excellent privately owned toilet
on the citys main shopping street, the Kalverstraat, called
2theloo, which is well worth the 1 fee. Q
Language
Dutch is an Indo-European Germanic language that is mostly
spoken in the Netherlands, Flanders and Suriname (South
America). It is closely connected to the Low German dialects
which by now have largely been flooded by official German.
These dialects managed to keep a number of proto-Germa-
nic characteristics and for this reason Dutch as a language
is a living fossil. It represents a group of important dialects
that were spoken by the founders of the Frankish Empire
and the Saxons. The latter group were the founders of the
English language as it is spoken today, hence Anglo-Saxons.
Afrikaans, as it is spoken in South Africa, is descended from
the 17th-century version of modern Dutch. To the dismay
of language purists, many English words have been inte-
grated into Dutch. Moreover, many youth are responsible
for a shift in the language. This isnt something recent. in
the first half of the 19th century, students already started
thinking up their own words that have now been adopted
for decades. Most Dutch have a more than fairly healthy
command of the English language. Many will also be adept
at other European languages with German being the most
commonly spoken. Q
Mail & Phones
You can use your mobile phone if your provider has an inter-
national roaming agreement with one of four mobile phone
networks in the Netherlands. Normally, if youre abroad, you
have to pay roaming charges on all incoming and outgoing
calls, text messages, mms and internet. Depending on your
phone usage, its well worth considering buying a local SIM
card. A prepaid account starts from around 10. To purchase
one you need to show your passport.
Dialing All In Your Pocket guides list country codes before
all telephone numbers. The Dutch country code is (+31), but
of course, you only have to use this if youre dialling from
abroad. If youre already in the Netherlands and want to call
one of the numbers in this guide, just ignore the (+31) prefix,
dial 0 and then the nine-digit number. Q
Money
Since 2002, a large part of the European Union has adopted
the euro as its local currency and the Netherlands is no
exception. One euro contains 100 euro cents. There are
coins of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 euro cents, and also of 1 and
2 euro. Banknotes are available with the following values:
5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. Although a collection of
200 and 500 bills in your wallet might make you feel like
Bill Gates, bear in mind that theyre almost never accepted
in shops or restaurants. You can exchange and withdraw
money at most large banks; there are plenty in the centre
of Amsterdam. All Dutch banks accept Visa and MasterCard
at their cash dispensers, but bear in mind that ATMs are
ridiculously scarce in Amsterdam often leading to huge
queues near hot spots like Leidseplein. At the train station
you can find a GWK Travelex shop (Stationsplein, open Mon
- Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00). Many restaurants,
hotels and shops accept Visa and MasterCard, but to avoid
disappointment, be sure to carry some money with you as
some bars only accept cash and others require a minimum
purchase of 15 - 20 to use a card. Q
8
HISTORY
1000 - First Settlements
Looking for land, farmers from Utrecht make their way to
the marshy area known as Aemstelle. By digging drainage
canals, the swampy land is slowly reclaimed. The farmers
and fishermen, who make their homes on both banks of the
Amstel River, build their houses on mounds to stay above
the water.
1250 - Dam on the Amstel River
Around 1250, a dam was constructed on the Amstel,
from which Amsterdam derived its name. The dam, which
was financed by the Lords of Amstel, connected the two
banks of the Amstel River. On this dam, which was slowly
expanded over time, the centre of what would later become
Amsterdam arose.
1275 - Toll Privileges of Floris V
The Toll Privilege, which was written
in 1275 by Floris V in Leiden, is the
oldest document in which Amsterdam
is mentioned. The document was
written after Floris soldiers wreaked
havoc in the small village. By way of
compensation, the inhabitants were
granted the ri ght to move goods
within the county of Holland without
paying fees.
1452 - The Great Fire
Around 1400, Amsterdam had grown
into a city of about 3000 inhabitants.
Since all of the houses were made
of wood and built right next to one
another, there was a constant threat
of fire. In 1452 a great fire broke out
that destroyed two thirds of the city.
As a consequence, it was decided
that houses should be built of stone. However, these heavy
houses sank into the boggy soil. To prevent this, long wooden
piles were subsequently used as foundations.
1482 - City Walls
Amsterdam was late in getting its own city walls. Prior to
this the citys residents had to make do with the occasional
defensive moat or earthen wall. The municipality eventually
decided to build walls for fear of looters from Gelderland and
Utrecht. Apart from the extra security provided by the wall, it
also showed outsiders that Amsterdam was an independent
community with its own governance.
1578 - Amsterdam becomes Protestant
After the beginning of the Dutch
revolt, Amsterdam remained loyal to
the Spanish king. However, Protes-
tant rebels led by William of Orange
ruled the area surrounding Catholic
Amsterdam. On 26 May 1578, a shift
took place that forced the Catholic
city council and the Catholic clergy
to leave the city. Amsterdam joined
the revolt and grew into an economic
superpower partly due to the arrival
of merchants from the southern Netherlands. Catholics would
build clandestine churches throughout the city.
1602 - Founding of the VOC
The Verenigde Oost-Indische Com-
pagnie (VOC or United East Indian
Company) is founded. Amsterdam is
the main partner in this multinational
commercial enterprise. For a long
time the VOC controls the lucrative
trade between Asia and Europe. In
the 17th and 18th centuries it is the largest trading company
in the world. In Asia the VOC acts as a representative of the
State-General. This first multinational is empowered to cre-
ate local governments in its colonies, to administer justice,
mint coins and to negotiate treaties with foreign powers.
1612 - Canal Construction
The strong growth of both Amster-
dams economy and its mushroom-
ing population causes overcrowding
and poor sanitation. In 1612 the
municipality decides to initiate the
first major expansion of the city. A
series of canals were constructed
to supply badly needed housing, docks and warehouses.
The world famous canals like Herengracht, Prinsengracht,
and Keizersgracht are dug around the old medieval city in
semicircles. The band of canals has been on the UNESCO
list world heritage list since 2010.
1620 - Construction of the Westerkerk
Reformed Protestantism becomes the most important re-
ligion in the Dutch Republic during the 17th-century Golden
Age. Catholic churches were converted, but new ones were
needed for the growing numbers of Protestants. The most
prominent of these new houses of worship is the Westerkerk.
When it was completed in 1631 it was the largest reformed
church in the world and the tallest building in the city at
nearly 84m.
1648 - Construction of the City Hall
The old Gothic city hall had become
too small for the largest centre of
trade in the world. The city council
commissioned Jacob van Campen
to design a new city hall, which would
refl ect Amsterdams expanded
power and glory. In 1648 construc-
tion began. To guarantee a stable
foundation, no less than 13,659 piles were driven into the
ground. Many artists were involved in decorating the clas-
sicist building, which was completed in 1665.
1808 - King Louis Napoleon Bonaparte
With help from the French Revolution-
ary Army, the Batavian Republic was
proclaimed in 1795, but Napoleon
Bonaparte had his own ideas and
put an end to the fledgling republic
i n 1806 and named hi s brother
Louis Napoleon King of Holland. The
king, who initially resided in Utrecht,
makes Amsterdam the capital and
the centre of his new government.
Ki ng Loui s Napol eon cl ai ms the
grand city hall as his own personal
residence on the Dam.
9
HISTORY
1864 - Palace of the People
Even in slightly backward Amster-
dam, signs of modernity slowly
seeped in. The new symbol of
the spirit of the age a building
for everyone was erected on
Frederiksplein, in large part due
to the efforts of Jewish physician
Samuel Sarphati. However, the building, which was inspired
by the Crystal Palace in London, burnt down in 1929.
1928 - Ol ympics in Amsterdam
In 1928, Amsterdam secures the
honour of hosti ng the Ol ympi c
Games. For some time Amsterdam
becomes the centre of the interna-
tional world of sports. It was a huge
success in the Netherlands generat-
ing great interest from the general
public and great accomplishments
by local athletes. The refurbished
Olympic Stadium is still the proud
symbol of this golden era.
1934 - Revol t in the Jordaan
In the 1930s the economic crisis
caused unprecedented unemploy-
ment in Amsterdam. This, in com-
bi nati on wi th harsh government
austerity measures caused a tense
atmosphere in the city. Eventually,
this combustible cocktail was ignited and desperate labour-
ers took to the streets in protest, which quickly led to fights
with the police. The situation escalated and the army was
brought in to restore order. During the five-day revolt, five
people were killed.
1940 - Persecution of the Jews
Soon after Nazi Germany invaded
the Netherlands, Jews became the
victims of the occupiers. Many Jews
were arrested and disappeared into
concentrati on camps. A general
strike was organised in Amsterdam
on 25 February 1941 in protest.
The February Strike was put down
violentl y and despi te this outcry,
most Jews in Amsterdam including Anne Frank did not
survive the war.
1945 - Hunger Winter
In the harsh winter of 1945 the food
supply to Amsterdam was nearly
completely cut off for fear of air raids
or commandeering by the German
occupyi ng forces. By the end of
September, the
shop shelves were already empty and
prices on the black market skyrock-
eted. The lack of food, combined with
the intense cold and lack of fuel, led
to desperate attempts to get supplies
from the countryside so called hunger
journeys as well as mass mortality
among Amsterdams residents.
1964 - Johan Cruijff and Ajax
Johan Cruij ff makes his dbut on
the first team of Ajax. With his club
he wi ns the European Cup fi nal
against the Greek side Panathinai-
kos in 1971. After his transfer to
FC Barcelona Cruij ff still celebrates
major successes, and to the Catalan
people he is known as El Salvador.
In 1974 the footballer, number 14,
manages to reach the World Cup
final, together with the Dutch team.
After a career as a football player
and trainer skinny Jopie is named European Football Player
of the 20th century.
1965 - Het Lieverdje and the Provos
The Provos movement started in
1965. These young anarchi sts
protested in playful ways against
what they considered to be narrow-
minded bourgeois society. These
provocateurs focused on issues like
the environment, womens eman-
cipation, changes in the arts and
free love. They frequently gathered
around the statue of Het Lieverdje
(the Sweetheart). On 13 May 1967,
the movement claimed victory and
disbanded. Its goal had been achieved: the authorities were
in complete disarray.
1980 - Squatters Riots
In the weeks leading up to the crowning of Princess Beatrix, a
variety of conflicts erupted between squatters in Amsterdam
and the police and tensions kept rising. The situation ex-
ploded on the day of the coronation, which resulted in one of
the worst riots in Dutch history. Squatters protested against
a lack of housing, unemployment and the royal coronation
and got into fights with the police.
1996 - Gay Pride
Gay Pride is the highlight of the year
for homosexual s i n Amsterdam.
During the first weekend of August,
a party is held in the inner city, where
parti ci pants show pri de i n thei r
sexual orientation. The highlight of
the week-long festivities is the pa-
rade on the canals, also called Canal
Pride. There are also many street
parties. Photo by T. Pouw
2000 - Development of Zuidas
The Zuidas (South Axis) is Amster-
dams fi nanci al and educati onal
centre located in the south of the
city. Although the 670-acre area is
still being developed, 400 compa-
nies and institutions have already
settl ed here i ncl udi ng the head
offices of various multinationals and a university. Housing,
shops, schools, theatres and museums will also become
an integral part of Zuidas, which has placed an emphasis
on sustainability and accessibility for all.
10
CULTURE & EVENTS
CULTURE & EVENTS
Amsterdam has no shortage of concerts, festivals and
exhibitions. For a complete list of what's on in the Dutch
capital this summer see our 'Amsterdam calendar of
events' feature at www.amsterdam.inyourpocket.com.
Ballet & Opera
Het Muziektheater Amsterdam H-6, Waterlooplein
22, tel. (+31) 205 51 81 17, info@het-muziektheater.
nl, www.het-muziektheater.nl. This fairl y modern building
from 1986 is the home of the Dutch National Ballet and The
Netherlands Opera. The architectural highlight of the Amster-
dam Music Theatre is its curved front faade that faces the
Amstel River housing 14-metre-high open foyers.
Cinemas
Het Ketelhuis C-4, Pazzanistraat 4, tel. (+31) 206 84
00 90, info@ketelhuis.nl, www.ketelhuis.nl. One of the
first cinemas in Amsterdam to specificall y promote Dutch
films, Het Ketelhuis has graced the Westergasfabriek for over
a decade. Set in a rather spacious former warehouse, it offers
Dutch and foreign arthouse movies, Q&As, debates and even
dance events. The atmosphere is a bit frigid and dark due to
all the space, but once you grab a Belgian beer at the bar you'll
feel fine. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Wed, Fri 14:00 - 01:00, Sat
12:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:30 - 03:00. PTNXW
Pathe Arena Arenaboulevard 600,
tel. (+31) 900 14 58, www.pathe.
nl. One of three places in the Nether-
lands that has a giant IMAX screen.
The digital sound is also a big bonus.
QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:30
- 24:00. (5 - 13). TAL
The Movies D-4, Haarlemmerdijk
161 - 163, tel. (+31) 206 38 60 16,
info@themovies.nl, www.themov-
ies.nl. An insti tution in Amsterdam
since 1912, The Movies is a bi t old
fashioned, but that's also its biggest
attraction. Take in independent films or
hang out at its bar or restaurant.
Classical music
Het Concertgebouw F-9, Concertgebouwplein 10,
tel. (+31) 206 71 83 45, www.concertgebouw.nl. Since
1888 this beautifully designed architectural masterpiece has
been the leading classical concert hall in town.
Portuguese Synagoge H-5, Mr. Vissersplein 3, www.
portugesesynagoge.nl. One of the city's oldest synagogues
is currentl y being renovated but is still open to the public.
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat.
Clubs & Live music
Amsterdam Arena J-6, 's-Gravesandestraat 51, tel.
(+31) 208 50 24 00, info@hotelarena.nl, www.hotelar-
enana.nl. Not to be confused with the Ajax football arena,
this multifunctional place houses a hotel, restaurant and caf
and also opens a couple of nights a week as a club in the
former St. Elisabeth's Hospital.
Heineken Music Hall ArenA Boulevard 590, tel.
(+31) 900 68 74 24 2, www.heineken-music-hall.nl.
The Heineken Music Hall consists of two big stages, but the
larger one, nicknamed the Black Box, is known throughout
Europe for its great acoustic sound. It's the onl y venue in
the Netherlands that's designed especiall y for amplified pop
music and more than 600,000 music lovers attend a broad
range of concerts here every year.
Dec
Date Time Event Venue
21 19:30 Pop/Rock. Blf. One of Hollands
finest rock bands. 28.50
PA
24,
31
22:00 Club/Electro. Clubnight
WesterUnie. Known for its
formidable acoustics every
Saturday. 17.50
WG
28 19:00 Pop/Jazz. Gare du Nord -
Lil ywhite Soul Tour. 22
DM
29 20:30 Jazz/Gypsy. Jazz Orchestra
of the Concertgebouw &
Stochele Rosenberg led by Henk
Meutgeert. 25
BH
29 19:30 Jazz. New Cool Collective. 16 DM
31 23:00 House/Jazz. Wicked Jazz Sounds
NYE. Mixing the old with the new
in danceable jazz sounds, soul,
funk, hiphop and house. 40
DM
31 24:00 Electro. NYE Sil ver Disco.
Powered by Electronation. 35
NSF
Jan
16 19:00 Punk/Emo. Never Shout Never
by Carter Hulsey. 17
DM
21 20:30 New Wave. Echo and the
Bunnymen: Crocodiles and
Heaven Up Here. 26
PA
25 20:30 R&B. Boyz II Men. Twenty years
after signing with Motown their
jubilee tour will bring them to
Paradiso. 35
PA
26 20:00 Spoken Word. Henry Rollins.
Legendary Black Flag and Rollins
Band singer will share his life
story. 20
PA
28 20:30 Pop/Rock. Ks Choice. Little
Echoes Acoustic Tour. 32
DM
29 20:30 Reggae. UB40. Red Red Wine
and much more. 45
PA
Feb
2 20:00 Drum n Bass/Dubstep. Lamb.
The top of trip-hop scene at
work. 20
DM
10 21:00 Rock/Indie. Nada Surf. 16 DM
12 20:15 World music. Khayeli tsha
Uni tes Mambazo Choir.
Celebrating South Africa. 10
- 23
KK
15 20:30 Pop. The War on Drugs.
Psychedelic indie rock from their
second album Slave Ambient.
14
DM
20 20:30 Pop. Gotye. The new Belgian
sensation known for the hit
Somebody I Used to Know. 17
PA
23 20:00 Rock. Melissa Etheridge. 44
- 53
HMH
Mar
3 20:30 Rock. Letz Zep. One of the best
Led Zeppelin cover bands in the
world. 20
DM
13 20:00 Drums/percussion. KODO - One
Earth Tour 2012. The fabled
KODO drummers, masters of
traditional Japanese taiko drums.
19 - 48
TC
Rock, folk, jazz & More
Former Black Flag
frontman Henry
Rollins will perform
at the Paradiso on
January 26. Photo
courtesy of www.
henryrollins.com
CULTURE & EVENTS
11
CULTURE & EVENTS
14 20:00 R&B. Jason Derulo. 34 HMH
16 20:00 Pop. James Morrison. 42 HMH
17 19:30 Electro/Pop. Example. Try this for
Example! 14
DM
19,
20
20:15 Pop/Rock. Van Huis Uit by Tim
Knol. One of Hollands newest
and best talents. 9 - 19
KK
23 19:30 Pop. Case Mayfield. 10 PA
23 20:00 Crazy Pianos. Two pianos, a
saxophone and a drummer turn
the DeLaMar upside down with
requests, improvisation and
interaction with the audience.
19 - 31
LM
Rock, folk, jazz & More
Legendary reggae greats UB40 will perform at the Paradiso
on January 29. Photo Reflex Recordings & Music, Ltd.
Dec
23
- 30
12:00
16:00
20:00
Circus. World Christmas Circus.
Exclusive to Carr during the
holidays with three Golden Clown
winners and the all-new fl ying
trapeze. Its not a normal circus,
and hardl y a normal venue. 15
- 59
TC
23 20:00 Ballet. Ballet Vincent with
Maria Alexandrova & Gennady
Yannin from the Bolshoi Theatre
(Russia). 29 - 46
KK
23
- 25,
27,
29
- 31
20:15 Ballet. The Nutcracker &
Muizenkoning performed by the
National Ballet. 19 - 74
MA
Jan
1 19:00 Ballet. The Nutcracker by the
Tatar State Opera & Ballet. An
unrivaled story by Tchaikovsky.
25 - 39
LM
1 - 8 12:00
16:00
20:00
Circus. World Christmas Circus.
Exclusive to Carr during the
holidays with three Golden Clown
winners and the all-new fl ying
trapeze. Its not a normal circus,
and hardl y a normal venue. 15
- 59
TC
3 - 6 20:00 Musical. Daddy Cool. From Boney
M and Frank Farian, a modern-
day tale about love, nostalgia
and history. A tale of Dutch-
Surinamese life with Kim-Lian
van der Meij & Jetty Mathurin.
29 - 49
LM
14
- 16
20:00 Musical. Next to Normal:
the Broadway hi t musical in
Amsterdam. Hollands finest
Simone Kleinsma and Freek
Bartels tell the story of a woman
battling radical changes. A
powerful, yet funny tale. 26
- 38
LM
Feb
5 - 12 20:30 Musical. Next to Normal:
the Broadway hit musical in
Amsterdam. 26 - 38
LM
15,
18,
22,
25
20:15 Ballet. The National Ballet
presents Festival New Works.
15 - 48
MA
20 20:30 Dance. Dancegroup Amsterdam
- Generations
SB
Mar
2, 3 20:15 Ballet. The National Ballet
presents: Festival New Works.
15 - 48
MA
4 20:00 Dance. KARAS / Saburo
Teshigawara. Mirror and Music.
SB
5 20:30 Dance. Introdance - Hemels
(Heavenl y). 40 years of
Introdance. 21 - 29
LM
8, 11 20:15
14:00
Dance. F.A.R. by Wayne
McGregor|Random Dance. 15
- 46
MA
Ballet, dance & Theatre
Melkweg E-8, Lijnbaansgracht 234a, tel. (+31) 205 31
81 81, www.melkweg.nl. Since 1970 Melkweg has been
one of the best known cul tural centres in the Netherlands.
Five artistic disciplines are available under one roof: music,
dance/theatre, film, photography and media art. Concerts,
dance events, theatrical and dance performances, films,
festivals and photo exhibitions are staged in five halls and
several small rooms.
Paradiso F-8, Weteringschans 6 - 8, tel. (+31) 206 26
45 21, www.paradiso.nl. Up-and-coming bands play in the
small room while big names perform in the main hall of this
former church. Kings of Leon, The White Stripes and even
Lady Gaga have all played here.
Sugar Factory F-7, Lijnbaansgracht 238, www.
sugarfactory.nl. Sugar Factory calls itself 'a cutting-edge
mul ti-disciplinary night theatre', so find out for yoursel f if
they're exaggerating or telling the truth. Good for live bands
and hot international DJs.
Concert halls
Amsterdam Music Theatre (Muziektheater Am-
sterdam) H-6, Waterlooplein 22, tel. (+31) 205 51 81
17, www.muziektheater.nl. This is the home of both the
Netherlands Opera and National Ballet. Watch world-class
performances here or take a tour of the place on Saturdays at
noon. Q Guided tour admission (Sat 12:00): 6. AK
Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ H-3, Piet Heinkade 1, tel.
(+31) 207 88 20 00, www.muziekgebouw.nl. The
Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ specialises in current musical de-
velopments in the form of festi vals, mul timedia concerts
and exhibitions.
12
CULTURE & EVENTS
CULTURE & EVENTS
The World Christmas Circus will dazzle crowds several
times during the holiday season and in January. Photo
courtesy of Stardust Circus International BV
New Wave icons Echo & the Bunnymen will perform at
the Paradiso on January 21. Photo courtesy of the Echo
& the Bunnymen Facebook page
Dec
26
- 30
Tangomagia. The international
Argentine tango festival
featuring world famous Argentine
maestros, DJs and orcehstras.
Nightl y salons, workshops
and a dail y tango caf.
Perfomances will take place at
the Science Park, Kompaszaal,
Posthoornkerk, De Duif &
Hotel Arena. Admission and
workshops available from 29.
For a full programme visit www.
tangomagia.com
28,
29
20:00
16:00
Talent Show. The Voice of
Holland in Concert. The 12 best
talents from the TV hit The
Voice of Holland will perform in a
special concert at the Heineken
Music Hall. 38
HMH
31 7:00 House/Dance. Qountdown.
Q-Dance. Harder styles of house
music. Legendary for its mob-style
dress code and uncompromising
house music. 60
HMH
Jan
1 16:00
-
04:00
House/Techno/Minimal.
Awakenings Festival with
Karotte, Len Faki, Adam Beyer
and Ben Sims on the wheels
of steel. Beware. Its a 12-hour
party. 47.50
WG
12
- 15
Talent Show. SYTYCD 2012.
Hollands number one dance
talent show. So You Think
You Can Dance live at the
Amsterdam RAI
RAI
21 21:30
-
07:00
Hardstyle/House. X-Qlusive. The
X-Qlusive parties focus on one
or two top DJs. This time the
Noisecontrollers will be in charge
of the all-night rave
HMH
25
- 29
Fashion Show. AIFW: Winter
DOWNTOWN. Amsterdam
International Fashion Week
returns to the Westergasfabriek
WG
23 11:00 Chinese New Year Celebrations.
Fireworks anyone?
ZD
Festivals & Special events
Feb
1 - 2 10:00
-
18:00
IS Europe 2012. The largest
professional audio visual and
systems integration trade show
ever held in Europe with over
750 exhibitors from over 100
countries. Visitors will be able to
see, hear and touch thousands
of technological innovations. Visit
via www.iseurope.org
RAI
11
- 12
10:00
-
17:00
Trade fair. Bike and Hike 2012.
14
RAI
11
- 12
14:00
-
20:00;
10:00
-
18:00
Vintage fair. Design Icons
Amsterdam. Over 60 traders
will offer vintage interior and
household items At the De
Overkant former shipwharf
located in Amsterdam-Noord
DO
18
- 26
11:00
-
18:00
Trade fair. Huishoudbeurs 2012.
Hollands biggest household
items fair will also be filled with
enterntainment, bargains and
lots of creative cuisine. 14
RAI
19
- 26
Puppet Arts Festival. Showcasing
the latest developments in
international puppet and object
theatre at the Krakeling, Theater
Bellevue and the Ostadetheater
22
- 26
11:00
-
18:00
Fair. Negen Maanden Beurs.
(Nine Months Fair). Covers the
joys and struggles gained from
new offspring. 18
RAi
Mar
6 - 11 10:00
-
18:00
Fair. HISWA Amsterdam Boat
Show 2012. Everything you need
to know about boats, sailing
and watersports in general. The
biggest boat fair in the Benelux
nations. 12 - 16
RAI
7 - 11 5 Days Off. Amsterdam goes
electro as a wide selection of
artists bring you the latest in the
genre. Events will take place at
De Melkweg, Paradiso and the
Dutch Institute for Media Art.
See www.5daysoff.nl for more
information
CULTURE & EVENTS
13
CULTURE & EVENTS
Exhibition Venue
Death is Alive (De Dood Leeft). An exhibition
about the inevitable end for all us. On display
from 03.11. Open 10:00 - 17:00. 9
TM
Cobra Artprize Amstel veen. 2011 winner
Nathaniel Mellors and some of his clever
crossovers of visual arts, music, theatre and
l yrics. On display until 04.03. Open Tue - Sun
11:00 - 19:00. 9.50
CM
Etruscans. Respected Women - Men with Power.
The intriguing world of the Etruscans. The focus
in the Allard Pierson Museum will be on Etruscan
men. On display until 18.03. Open 10:00
- 17:00. 6.50
APM
Studio Toscane. Showcasing work from the
late Karel Appel and new work by painter and
sculptor Roberto Barni. On display until 15.01.
Open Tue - Sun 11:00 - 19:00. 9
CM
Venuez12. Hospitality and style magazine
Venuez showcases the latest in modern-day
storytelling and experiences. On display until
11.01. 40
RAI
Red Light District Pilot Projects. Amsterdams
most famous district is getting a makeover!
Discover Tsaiher Chengs vision of De Wallen.
On display 09.12 - 20.01. Open 13:00 - 17:00
AC
Exhibition of the Hester van Eeghen Leather
Design Prize. On display until 29.01. Open 10:00
- 17:00. 7
THM
Cinema/Expo. Nova Zembla. The first Dutch
3D movie about the legendary 16th-century
expedition to find the North passage to Asia
and the harsh winter the crew endured in 1596.
It includes unique artefacts from Barentsz and
Co. On display until 17.02. Open 09:00 - 18:00.
12
RM
Christmas in the Rijksmuseum. Medieval
sculpture and paintings inlcuding 10 refurbished
masterpieces. On display until 05.03. Open
09:00 - 18:00. 12
RM
Saul Lei ter - New York Reflections. Work by
American photographer and painter Saul
Lei ter. On display until 04.03. Open 09:00
- 17:00.
JH
Rubens, Van Dyck & Jordaens. Belgian painters
from the Hermitage. On display until 16.03.
Open 10:00 - 17:00. 15
HT
Edith Frank-Hollnder. Anne Franks mother
in a special exhibition about the hard life in
Nazi-occupied Amsterdam and the gruesome
confinement in Auschwitz. On display until mid-
March. Open Mon - Fri 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00
- 21:00. 9.50
AF
Bonnard, Vuillard and Denis. Prophets of the
avant-garde and their quest for unique painting
methods. On display 17.03. Open 10:00
- 19:00. 15
HT
Mooie Cadeaus. Exhibi tion of bags that
were donated to the museum for i ts 15th
anni versary. On display until 18.03. Open
10:00 - 17:00. 7
THM
Amsterdam through the lens of a clandestine
camera. Authentic pictures of the German
regime during WWII. On display until 01.04.
Open 10:00 - 17:00. 7
VM
400 Years of Collaboration between Turkey and
the Netherlands. On display until 09.04. Open
09:00 - 18:00. 12
RM
Exhibitions
NDSM-werf M-2, tt Neveritaweg 61, ndsm.nl. The
NDSM is one of Amsterdam's cul tural hot spots. This former
shipyard on the IJ in Amsterdam North is a unique location
that has been developed into a cul tural venue for innova-
tive performing arts, festivals, visual arts and new media.
Westergasfabriek N-1, Polonceaukade 27, tel. (+31)
205 86 07 10, www.westergasfabriek.nl. In 1992, the
19th-century abandoned buildings of the Imperial Continental
Gas were used temporaril y for creative and cul tural activities
and now the Westergasfabriek and the surrounding park are
an asset for the whole community.
Zeedijk B-1, Zeedijk, www.zeedijk.nl. The Zeedijk is
one of the ci ty's most historic streets and also home to
Amsterdam's Chinatown. Chinese New Year and Buddha Day
are some of the more popular festivals held here.
Theatre & Music
Carre I-7, Amstel 115, www.
theatercarre.nl. In 1993 a large
renovation transformed Carr from
a circus with a small capacity to a
large theatre. Ballet and musicals are
its main attractions today as well as
one man shows in Dutch. DeLaMar
Theater F-8, Marnixstraat 402,
tel. (+31) 900 33 52 62 7, dela-
mar.nl. The newest theatre in Am-
sterdam has two different halls and
host up to 1500 people. The flashy
building of the DeLaMar Theater by
Leidseplein attracts attention as well
as hoards of visitors and a flurry of
international and national theatre,
musi cal and dance companies of
the widest array.
Stadsschouwburg Amsterdam F-8, Leidseplein 26,
tel. (+31) 206 24 23 11, info@ssba.nl, www.ssba.nl.
Since 1894 culture lovers have enjoyed theatre performances
and concerts in the baroque Great Hall and more recentl y in
the Rabohall of Stadsschouwburg Amsterdam.
Theater Bellevue F-8, Leidsekade 90, tel. (+31) 205
30 53 01, www.theaterbellevue.nl. Formerl y known as
the place for famous Dutch politicians to give speeches, it's
now a theatre with a big and a small hall.
AC ARCAM AF Anne Frank Huis
AMT Amsterdams Marionetten Theater
AP Allard Pierson Museum
CG Concertgebouw CM Cobra Museum
DM De Melkweg DO De Overkant
HMH Heineken Music Hall
HT Hermitage KK Ketelhuis
KKH De Kleine Komedie LM De La Mar Theater
MA Het Muziektheater Amsterdam
MZ Muziekgebouw aan t IJ
PA Paradiso PS Portugese Synagoge
RAI Amsterdam RAI RM Rijksmuseum
SB Stadsschouwburg SK Studio K
TB Theater Bellevue
TC Koninklijk Theater Carr
THM Tassenmuseum Hendrikje Amsterdam
TK Thomaskerk VM Verzetsmuseum
WG Westergasfabriek ZD Zeedijk
Venues
Amsterdam
International Fashion
Week returns to the
Westergasfabriek
January 25 - 29
Photo by Peter Stigter
14
CULTURE & EVENTS
CULTURE & EVENTS
Dec
23 22:15 Classical. Eine Alpensinfonie by
Bernard Haitink. 30 - 125
CG
23 20:15 Classical. The Classical Treasure
Chamber: Golden Christmas
performed by the Sinfonia
Rotterdam. 27.50
CG
25 15:00 Classical. Hatink and Harteros: a
Christmas Matinee. 30 - 125
CG
26 14:15 Classical. Christmas Recital with
Regina Albrink. 31
CG
26,
27
20:15 Classical. 19th edition of the
Christmas Gala with master
pianist Wibi Soerjadi. 50 - 70
CG
26,
28
13:30
20:00
Opera. Orest. World premiere by
Manfred Trojahn
MA
30 19:30 Classical. Calefax Rietkwintet.
Part of PAN: the shortest festival
in Holland. 15
MZ
Jan
1 11:00 Classical. The Schubert
Ensemble. 22.50
CG
5 20:15 Classical. musikFabrik by
Jonathan Harvey. 26
MZ
6 20:15 Classical. The Metropole
Orchestra: Mr. West in the land of
the Bolsheviks. 26
MZ
7, 8 20:15 Classical. Tchaikovskys Triumph.
25 - 48
CG
8 16:45 Classical. Hommage to Debussy.
The Amsterdam Wind Quintet
celebrates the 150th birthday of
Claude Debussy. 10 - 15
MG
10,
17,
24,
31
12:30 Classical. Free lunch concert in
the lobby.
MA
12,
14,
16,
17,
19
- 22
20:00 Opera. The Nightingale and
other fairytales. Music by Igor
Stravinsky. 42 - 82
MA
15 16:45 Classical/Baroque. Sabine
Eichner & Ivan Sokolov. 10 - 15
MG
15,
16
14:15 Classical. De Nieuwe Wereld
(The New World). 25 - 48
CG
17 20:15 Classical. Englands best old-
music soprano. With Carol yn
Sampson & Julius Drake. 50
CG
18,
19,
20,
22
20:15 Classical. Kurt Masur conducts
Beethovens No.6. 22 - 80
CG
20 Classical. Christmas concert by
the Quatre Bouches
TK
20 20:15 Classical. Carte Blanche by
violist Liza Ferschtman. 43
CG
21 20:15 The Limburg Orchestra.
Winners of the Queen Elisabeth
Competition 2010. 15 - 29
CG
Classical & Opera
22 16:45 Guitar/classical. Compositions
by Bach, Paganini, Debussy and
others reinvigorated by guitar
hero Frans Brekelmans. 10 - 15
MG
22 20:30 Classical. The great classical
hits by the Dutch Philharmonic
Orchestra. 39 - 55
CG
23 20:15 Classical. 50 years of the VU-
Orchestra. 16 - 20
CG
23,
25
20:15 Classical. Eggner Trio: Musical
Brotherlove. 45
CG
25 20:15 Classical. Nederlands Blazers
Ensemble. My Funny Lady. 37
MZ
26 19:30 Classical. Wings Ensemble
Copperquintet. 13
PS
27 20:15 Classical. Nederlandse Bach
Vereniging (Dutch Bach
Association): Bach na Bach. 32
MZ
28 13:00 Opera: Jeths Dreamworld - The
Opera Hotel de Pkin. 48 - 56
CG
29 16:45 Classical. Larissa Groeneweg &
Gwyneth Wentink on cello and
harp. 10 - 15
MG
30 20:15 Classical/Baroque. Barock
Lounge with Elbipolis featuring
Brezel Gring. 20
MZ
Feb
1 20:15 Classical. Schubert 8 with
Myung-Whun Chung. 22 - 95
CG
3 20:15 Classical. Beethovens third
piano recital with Sunwook Kim.
22 - 90
CG
4 20:15 World music: Maria de Ftima:
Everything is Fado. 27
CG
5 15:00 Sexteto Mayor. Over 35 years
at the top. Exclusive in Carr.
18 - 49
TC
7, 14,
21,
28
the lobby
MA
8, 11,
14,
17,
20,
23,
26
18:30 Opera. The Legend of the
Invisible City Kitesj by Rimski-
Korsakov
MA
Classical & Opera
For a complete calendar
of events visit
Find your inner Travol ta and head over to Koninklijk Theater
Carr in December and the beginning of January for
Saturday Night Fever. Photo by Nick van Ormondt
CULTURE & EVENTS
15
CULTURE & EVENTS
8 20:15 Classical. Janine Jansen plays
Mendelssohn. 22 - 85
CG
8 20:15 Classical. Ian Bostridge featuring
Julius Drake (UK). 37
MZ
8 20:15 Classical. Prknyi Quartet &
Isabel Charisius. 48
CG
10 20:15 Classical. Prkny Quartet &
Isabel Charisius. 48
CG
11 14:15 Classical. A Class Apart:
Stravinsky, Larcher & Germanus.
31 - 36
CG
12 11:00 Classical. De Bolro and other
masterpieces. 19 - 22
CG
12 16:45 Classical. Sonja van Lier &
Vaughan Schlepp - soprano and
piano. 10 - 15
MG
13 20:15 Classical. The New Yorkers and
guest violinist Zimmermann.
51 - 118
CG
14 20:15 Classical. Gryphon Piano Trio.
43
CG
17 21:00 Classical. A world premiere by
Carolin Widmann. 32.50
CG
18 20:15 Classical. Dutch Chamber
Orchestra. 43
MZ
19 16:45 Classical. Kaoru I wamura &
Dario Macaluso. Piano and guitar.
10 - 15
MG
21 20:15 Classical. Beethovens
Pastorale with Haitink. 34 - 72
CG
23 19:30 Classical. Felicia van den End &
Gwyneth Wentink on flute and
harp. 13
PS
23 21:00 Classical/Other: Half Blood. The
music of Prince. 19
CG
24 20:15 Classical. The ul timate vision
of Beethoven by the Chamber
Orchestra of Europe. 34 - 101
CG
25,
27
20:15 Classical. Vienna performed
by the Dutch Philharmonic
Orchestra. 22 - 48
CG
26 14:15 Classical. Mozarts Requiem &
Krnungsmesse. 60 - 65
CG
26 16:45 Classical. Eveline Juten: Das
Leben ist ein Traum. 10 - 15
MG
26 20:15 Classical. Father and daughter
James and Joy Lisney. 30
CG
Classical & Opera
Mar
3 14:15 Classical. Chamber opera Jakob
Lenz. 31 - 36
CG
3 20:15 Classical. The Dutch Students
Chamber Orchestra presents
All 1. 25
CG
4 16:45 Classical. Piano recital by Shuann
Chai. 10 - 15
MG
5 20:15 Classical. Kristian Bezuidenhout
& Rosanne van Sandwijk. 50
CG
5 20:15 World music: Spanish Nights with
Rolando Saad & the Spanish
Symphony Orchestra. 45
CG
6 20:15 Classical. Dutch Baritone
Thomas Oliemans. 50
CG
6, 13,
20
the lobby
MA
7,8,9
& 11
20:15 Classical. Bruckner 6 with Mariss
Jansons. 22 - 95
CG
7 17:00 Classical. Prak Quartet: 40
years at the top. 26
MZ
9 20:15 Truls Mork meets Khatia
Buniathishvili. 45
CG
10 20:15 Classical. The Classical
Treasure Chamber: School of
Vienna. 27
CG
10 20:00 World music: Carlos do
Carmo. Portuguese icon is still
going strong at 70+ with his
unmistakable fado. 25 - 65
TC
11 16:45 Classical. Frhling Trio with
Vaughan Schlepp. 15
MG
13 20:15 Classical. Schweizer Piano Trio.
43
CG
15,
17
20:15 Classical. Casals Quartet: Big
Quartets. 50
CG
18 14:15 Classical. Hndel and Vivaldi with
Collegium Vocale and Musica
Amphion. 65 - 75
CG
18 20:15 Classical. Master pianists: Jorge
Luis Prats. 39 - 49
CG
20 20:15 Classical. Orchestra members up
close. Still Waters
22 19:30 Classical. Esnoga Organ Concert.
13
PS
22 20:15 Classical. Hayden & Mozart with
Trevor Pinnock. 22 - 75
CG
Classical & Opera
Don't miss the 19th Annual Christmas Gala featuring Wibi
Soerjadi at Concertgebouw. Photo by J.A.F. Doorhof
Tickets
Tickets for events such as musical concerts, sports, the
arts, theatre, family outings and festivals are best bought
at the venue itself or at TicketMaster (www.ticketmas-
ter.nl) outlets. You can buy tickets by phone or pick up
reserved tickets from selected VVV Outlets, TicketShops
(Amsterdam Concerto: Utrechtsestraat 52 - 60) and Free
Record Shops (Ferdinand Bolstr. 79; Kalverstraat 32).

Last Minute Ticket Shop F-9, Leidseplein 26, www.
lastminuteticketshop.nl. Theatre tickets for half the price?
The Last Minute Ticket Shop sells tickets for selected perfor-
mances with a 50% discount on the day of the performance.
Each day there's a new selection of theatre performances
and concerts. A surcharge of 2.25 is added to the price and
you can't reserve or order tickets online or by phone. QOpen
12:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Also at the Public
Library Ticket Shop, Oosterdokskade 143; VVV Amsterdam
Tourist Office Ticket Shop Desk, Stationsplein 10. JA
16
WHERE TO STAY
WHERE TO STAY
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
C Swimming pool H Conference facilities
F Fitness centre U Facilities for the disabled
6 Pets allowed L Guarded parking
K Restaurant D Sauna
W Free wireless internet
Symbol key
Due to its status as a tourist Mecca, the Dutch capital
is nearly booked to capacity at any time of the year,
especially in the summer, during major international
holidays and at the weekend when rates skyrocket above
their already expensive heights. You're best bet is to book
well in advance to get a decent rate. If this isn't an option
and you've arrived on the spur of the moment then during
the week we recommend you leave your baggage at the
station and take a look at some of the nearby three-stars,
which vary enormously in style and price. Prices listed here
are general rack rates and are meant to give you an idea
of what to expect. All include VAT and breakfast unless
otherwise noted.
Cream of the crop
Hotel Okura Amsterdam H-10, Ferdinand Bolstraat
333, tel. (+31) 206 78 71 11, www.okura.nl. If luxury is
a necessity, but accommodation in the heart of city centre
isn't, then this five-star 23-floor hotel in the vibrant De Pijp
district might just be the place for you. Its Japanese owners
have created a majestic setting in which to eat, sleep, shop
and relax employing some of the city's finest designers to
achieve this goal. All rooms are tastefull y decorated and
include every modern amenity you could possibl y imagine as
well as a few surprises like Nespresso machines. Recentl y
renovated rooms also boast so-called open bathrooms with
glass walls and rainforest showerheads. Four restaurants
are at your disposal, including two with Michelin stars, Q
301 rooms (301 Total rooms ). 301 rooms (85 standard
from 250, 80 superior from 280, 56 deluxe from 295, 59
executive from 445, 12 junior suites from 330, 9 suites
from 1050). PHAUFLKDCW
NH Barbizon Palace B-1, Prins Hendrikkade 59-72,
tel. (+31) 205 56 45 64, fwww.nh-hotels.com. One of
Amsterdam's premiere hotels, the Barbizon Palace began
its existence over 100 years ago when 19 historic buildings
were converted into elegant accommodation. In fact, walk-
ing through its maze of hall ways one can even see the brick
partitions indicating where one building ends and the next
begins. Due to its unique construction, some rooms make use
of their ancient timbers and floors, while others have a more
contemporary feel and the executive floor has been recentl y
renovated for guests that require a more modern, minimalist
dcor. Two restaurants, a fitness centre and a conference and
banquet hall in a converted 15th-century chapel are also avail-
able. Q274 rooms (7 singles 129 - 300, 249 doubles 129
- 300, 3 suites 429 - 729, 11 apartments 90 - 300, 4 junior
suites 329 - 500). PHARUFLGKDX
NH Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky A-2, Dam 9, tel. (+31)
205 54 91 11, www.nh-hotels.com. What began in the
19th century as a coffee house on the Warmoesstraat ex-
panded over time into the massive hotel you see now on the
Dam. Due to its age and historic significance, the Krasnapol-
sky hasn't conformed to the modern NH hotel group style and
many of its 468 rooms have retained some elements of their
old world elegance. That said, most of the accommodation
includes huge flat screen TVs and king size beds and the
rooms in the new wing have a more contemporary look. The
hotel also offers restaurants and bars, fitness and business
centres, ice machines on each floor and valet parking. Q
468 rooms (28 singles 159 - 319, 79 doubles 159 - 319,
21 triples 239 - 399, 6 suites 434 - 594, 35 apartments
, 97 standard king 159 - 319, 68 deluxe twin 204 - 364,
68 standard queen 159 - 319, 24 executive twin 214 - 374,
23 deluxe king 204 - 364, 17 deluxe queen 204 - 364). 468
rooms (426 deluxe and executive, 6 junior suites, 1 suite, 35
apartments). PJHA6FLKXW
Renaissance Amsterdam Hotel A-1, Kattengat
1, tel. (+31) 206 21 22 23, fax (+31) 206 27 52 45,
www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/amsrd-renaissance-
amsterdam-hotel. This luxurious fi ve-star hotel, which is
part of the Marriott group, offers over 400 modern, tastefull y
decorated rooms in the city centre onl y a five-minute walk
from the Central Station. Spread out over several buildings,
the hotel was completel y renovated in 2009 and its accom-
modation includes all of the amenities one would expect from
a five-star hotel including king size beds, wireless internet
access, climate control, large flat screen TVs and a few
extras like bathrobes, slippers and fresh fruit. A Mediterra-
nean restaurant, a traditional brown caf and a hip cocktail
bar are also at your disposal as well as a heal th club and a
conference centre located in a converted Lutheran church
across the street that dates back to 1668. Q 402 rooms
(402 Total rooms ). 402 rooms (deluxe from 269, club level
from 329, junior suites from 409, royal suites available).
PJHAUFLGKDW
Upmarket
Amsterdam Marriott Hotel F-8, Stadhouderskade
12, tel. (+31) 206 07 55 55, fax (+31) 206 07 55 11,
www.amsterdammarriott.com. This massi ve hotel lo-
cated between the Museum district and popular Leidseplein
offers nearl y 400 rooms on 11 floors. Standard rooms are
decorated in yellow and maroon colours and provide king
size beds, huge flat screen TVs, internet access, phone,
safe, mini-bar, wri ting desks and pri vate bathrooms wi th
bathtubs. Executi ve rooms are a bi t more spacious and
buy you access to the Executi ve Lounge where you can
enj oy a complimentary breakfast, a cocktail and great
views. Conference rooms and a 24-hour heal th club are
also available as well as an upmarket steakhouse, an in-
ternational restaurant and a bar. Q 393 rooms (standard
doubles from 149, executi ve rooms from 284, sui tes
from 349). Breakfast not included for standard rooms.
PHARUFLGKD
NH Amsterdam Centre F-5, Stadhouderskade 7,
tel. (+31) 206 85 13 51, fax (+31) 206 85 16 11,
nhcentre@nh-hotels.com, www.nh-hotels.com. This
four-star hotel is an excell ent choi ce for i ts stylish, yet
comfortabl e rooms and i ts location between the ci ty's
best museums and bustling Leidsplein. Standard rooms are
hardl y standard and include king size beds, dark hardwood
floors, cable TV wi th internet access, climate control and
pri vate bathrooms. Superior rooms and sui tes are similar
in style but offer much more space and a few added ame-
ni ties. A caf, I talian restaurant, conference centre, spa
facili ties and a pri vate patio garden are also available to
guests, not to mention a pillow menu. Yes, you can choose
your own pillow at NH hotels! Q 232 rooms (41 singles
99 - 459, 189 doubles 99 - 459, 2 sui tes 399 - 759).
PHARUFGKDXW
WHERE TO STAY
17
WHERE TO STAY
NH Schiller Hotel B-3, Rembrandtplein 26, tel. (+31)
205 54 07 00, fax (+31) 206 24 00 98, nhschiller@nh-
hotels.com, www.nh-hotels.com. Not onl y does this four-
star hotel have an excellent location on Rembrandtplein near
restaurants, clubs and bars, but it's also a famous building
from 1912 steeped in history. The reception area is bursting
with old world elegance in the form of stained glass windows,
wood panelling, famous paintings by Friedrich Schiller and
Art Deco elements. All rooms are tastefull y decorated in the
modern NH Hotel style and include flat screen TVs, mini-bar,
safe and sweets on the pillow. Unfortunatel y, you have to
pay for wi-fi, but the view from your balcony might just make
you put your laptop away. Q92 rooms (92 Total rooms ). 92
rooms (standard from 129, superior from 159, junior suites
from 199). PHARUGKW
Park Hotel Amsterdam F-5, Stadhouderskade 25,
tel. (+31) 206 71 12 22, www.parkhotel.nl. Located
near the ci ty's best museums, this stylish four-star hotel
was completel y renovated in 2008 and recentl y named the
Netherlands' best business hotel. Modern design is already
evident in the lobby also know as the Living Room where you
can relax with a drink by a huge open fireplace or next to the
library. Superior rooms are decorated in subtle greys, whites
and blacks and include a piece of art by a Dutch designer as
well amenities like Nespresso machines and iPod docking
stations and open-concept bathrooms with rainforest show-
erheads. Even more luxurious executive, bridal and split-level
suites with kitchenettes are also available as well as a hip
Asian restaurant, a 24-hour fitness centre and conference
rooms. Q 189 rooms (superior doubles 129 - 149, execu-
tive doubles 169 - 189, junior suites 209 - 229, bridal suite
369 - 389, split level suites 289 - 309, executive suites
369 - 389). PHAUFGKW
Boutique hotels
Hotel Roemer E-8, Roemer Visscherstraat 10, tel.
(+31) 205 89 08 00, fax (+31) 205 89 08 01, www.
vondelhotels.com. If we were incredibly wealthy, we wouldn't
buy an apartment in Amsterdam. We would just move into
the Hotel Roemer, a four-star boutique hotel with a personal
approach to all of its guests. Spread out over two renovated
mansions in the Museum District, this place is cosy and
warm, yet also stylish and luxurious. In three of the rooms
you'll have to make do with rainforest showers, but all others
have their own private Jacuzzis and if you'd like a drink, don't
bother looking for a mini-bar. Just pour yourself a cocktail
from the full y stocked bar, which is included in the price. An
iPod docking station, Nespresso machine, wi-fi and TV with
DVD player are also standard amenities here and a cottage
is available in the Zen-like garden behind the hotel. Q 23
rooms 23 rooms (doubles from 180, executive from 210,
junior suites from 280). PAGW
Hotel Vondel E-8, Vondelstraat 26, tel. (+31) 206 12
01 20, fax (+31) 206 85 43 21, www.vondelhotels.
com. This fantasti c bouti que hotel l ocated in a qui et
Museum district neighbourhood is an excellent choice for
anyone who requires accommodation wi th cutting-edge
design. A unique blend of new and antique, European and
Asian, Hotel Vondel offers four-star rooms wi th every imag-
inable ameni ty including flat screen TVs, wireless internet,
iPod speakers and mini-bars as well as indi viduall y designed
interiors and pri vate natural stone bathrooms wi th walk-in
rainforest showers and/or bathtubs. A private garden is also
at you disposal as well as a trendy lounge and restaurant.
Q86 rooms (singles 85 - 120, doubles 90 - 130, triples
160 - 195, sui tes 380, executi ve rooms 115 - 165).
PHAGKW
WHERE TO STAY
18
WHERE TO STAY
Mid-range
A-Train Hotel A-1, Prins Hendrikkade 23, tel. (+31) 206
24 19 42, fax (+31) 206 22 77 59, info@atrainhotel.com,
www.atrainhotel.com. If you're a rail enthusiast there really
is no other option for accommodation in Amsterdam than the
kitschy A-Train Hotel. Not onl y is it located across the street
from the Central Station, but a rail theme also dominates
every aspect of the three-star hotel including the breakfast
area, where you dine in rail car booths and the miniature
train models and memorabilia covering every surface of the
building. Rooms are small but offer private bathrooms with
shower and hairdryer as well as a TV, phone and safe. The
friendl y staff complete the experience. Q 34 rooms (34
Total rooms ). 34 rooms (singles from 119, doubles from
129). JAKX
Avenue Hotel Amsterdam A-1, Nieuwezijds Voorburg-
wal 33, tel. (+31) 205 30 95 30, fax (+31) 205 30 95
99, memphis@embhotels.nl, www.embhotels.nl. This
colossal hotel is spread out over nine historic buildings in the
city centre a short walk from the Central Station. Pass the
enormous chandelier at the reception area and walk through
a labyrinth of hall ways punctuated by colour photographs of
Amsterdam to help you get your bearings. Standard rooms
trul y are standard with basic tourist-class furnishings includ-
ing faux wooden furniture, white walls and dark brown wall-
to-wall carpeting. The rooms also offer the usual amenities
like phone, cable TV, wireless internet, hairdryer and light
repulsing curtains. The bathrooms are small and offer onl y
a drain in the floor instead of a proper washing area, but the
showerheads are huge! Q80 rooms (singles 80 - 130,
triples 160 - 230, quads 182 - 260, twin 115 - 165, twin
superior 140 - 200). . PAW
Best Western Apollo Museumhotel Amsterdam
City Centre F-8, Pieter Cornelisz Hooftstraat 2, tel.
(+31) 206 62 14 02, fax (+31) 206 73 39 18, info.
museum@apollohotelsresorts.com, www.apollohotel-
sresorts.com/museum. This huge hotel is located next to
many of the city's best museums, hence the name, as well
as Amsterdam's most salubrious shopping street. Given its
excellent location and three-star status all of its nearl y 200
rooms are often booked solid by large groups so definitel y
reserve in advance. Classic rooms offer modern, minimalist
interiors decorated in whi tes, beiges and the occasional
splash of red to spice things up. Executive rooms are similar,
but more spacious and include some extra amenities such
as a mini-bar and views of the canal. A bar and breakfast
restaurant are also at your disposal. Q188 rooms (6 apart-
ments ). PAGKW
Best Western Dam Square Inn A-2, Gravenstraat
12-16, tel. (+31) 206 23 37 16, www.bestwesterndam-
squareinn.com. Located just behind the New Church off Dam
Square, few hotels have a better location than this three-star
hotel that was completel y renovated as recentl y as 2009.
Al though still not exactl y the height of fashion with bare white
walls and dark maroon carpets, the rooms do include large
flat screen TVs, extra long beds, pri vate bathrooms wi th
hairdryers, coffee/tea set and wireless internet access (for
an extra fee). Some of the city's most historic brown cafs
are also on the same street so you're never far from a glass
of beer or jenever. Q 38 rooms (singles from 105, doubles
from 135, triples from 165). PJAW
Best Western Leidse Square Hotel E-8, Tes-
selschadestraat 23, tel. (+31) 206 12 68 76, www.
leidsesquarehotel.nl. Al though the rooms aren't exactl y
what we would call stylish, they are surprisingl y spacious
and include all sorts of ameni ties like TV, phone, wri ting
desk, safe, tea kettle, climate control and private bathrooms
with showers and hair dryers, not to mention yellow and blue
colour schemes. The carpets have more than a few stains,
but for a tourist class hotel it's actuall y quite good and the
location near the Van Gogh Museum and Rijksmuseum is
excellent. It doesn't offer a restaurant, but its bar is open late
if you're partial to a cocktail or two before bed. Q (singles
59, quads 129 - 149, twin 69 - 79, superior 79 - 89).
Breakfast: 10. AG
Hotel Aalders Amsterdam F-9, Jan Luijkenstraat 13-
15, tel. (+31) 206 62 01 16, www.hotelaalders.nl. Three
generations of Aalders have been running this small three-star
hotel spread out across two buildings behind the Rijksmuseum
since 1955 so you can be sure that the staff know a thing or
two about customer service. Each room differs slightly in size,
but all are equipped with cable TV, phone, climate control,
private bathroom with hairdryer and shower or bathtub and
free wireless internet access. The red, blue or brown carpet-
ing and plain white walls won't win any design competitions,
but it's a friendly, comfortable place to stay and a breakfast
buffet is included in the price. Bike rental is also available. Q
28 rooms (4 singles 55 - 139, 16 doubles 69 - 199, 3 triples
119 - 219, 5 Family rooms 139 - 249). AGW
Hotel Arena J-6, 's-Gravesandestraat 51, tel. (+31)
208 50 24 20, info@hotelarena.nl, www.hotelarena.
nl. This historic former orphanage buil t in 1890 is not onl y a
good place for sleeping but also for meals, meetings, drinks
and a good night out. The Arena Hotel offers 116 spacious
and comfortable rooms that are similar in style and seem to
differ from one another onl y in size. They are a successful
mix of nostalgic, yet stylish elements and modern, trendy
furnishings. Unfortunatel y, the rooms that face the street can
be rather noisy at times. Q 116 rooms (deluxe, studio and
suites 159 - 259). PTAULGKXW
Hotel Citadel A-1, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 98-100,
tel. (+31) 206 27 38 82, fax (+31) 206 27 46 84, info@
hotelcitadel.nl, www.hotelcitadel.nl. This three-star hotel
located a short distance from the Central Station looks like
standard, tourist-class accommodation that's been upgraded
and modernised to reflect more contemporary tastes. That
said, some rooms such as the triples still look a bit old-fash-
ioned, so we recommend the doubles decorated in subtle
greys with the occasional flash of red for dramatic effect and
a large black and white photograph above the bed. Flat screen
TVs, private bathrooms with showers and hairdryers, phone
and safe also come standard and a late-night bar and even
room service are at your disposal. Q 38 rooms (38 Total
rooms ). 38 rooms. AKW
Typical Amsterdam architecture M.Zaprauskis
WHERE TO STAY
19
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel RobertRamon F-8, P.C. Hooftstraat 24-28, tel.
(+31) 206 71 47 85, fax (+31) 206 62 91 61, info@
robertramon.com, www.robertramon.nl. Located on
Amsterdam's most glamorous shopping street, Robert
Ramon is a good option for travellers who require a li ttle
style, yet are willing to sacrifice the heal th clubs, saunas
and other facilities that come standard at the chain hotels
to save some money. Rooms, especiall y singles, are on the
small side, but include interesting interior dcor, flat screen
TVs, wireless internet access, safe, phone, writing desk and
private bathrooms. If you book at least a month in advance
you can stay at what is essentiall y a design hotel in a great
neighbourhood for a very affordable price. Q 51 rooms (51
Total rooms ). Breakfast: 20. AGBW
WestCord City Centre Hotel Amsterdam A-1,
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 50, tel. (+31) 204 22 00 11,
fax (+31) 204 20 03 57, www.westcordhotels.nl. The
modern, some would say stylish reception area and restau-
rant with red leather couches and black and grey walls hint
at the hotel's recent renovations. Al though some standard
rooms remain, we recommend upgrading to a deluxe room
which are only slightly more expensive and include sleek dcor
in addi tion to the usual three-star ameni ties like wireless
internet access, phone, safe, hair dryer, tea kettle, etc. The
bathrooms are separated from the bedroom by a frosted
glass partition and inside all of the fixtures are either glass
or steel. Take a seat on translucent plastic chairs or hop in
a bed that faces the opposite direction of what you'd expect
toward a large flat screen TV mounted on the wall. Q 106
rooms (106 Total rooms ). 106 rooms (20 standard from 80,
86 deluxe from 100). Breakfast: 15. PAKW
Budget
Backstage Hotel Amsterdam E-7, Leidsegracht 114,
tel. (+31) 206 24 40 44, fax (+31) 206 38 52 54, info@
backstagehotel.com, www.backstagehotel.com. I t's
reall y hard to find good accommodation in Amsterdam for a
price that won't leave you feeling like you've been mugged,
but, somehow, this hip hotel manages to do just that. I t
keeps its rates surprisingl y low and its guests happy with
free wi-fi, iPod docking stations in each room, trendy Flight
Case furniture and a great location that's close enough to the
bars and clubs of Leidseplein, but just far enough away so you
don't actuall y hear all of the nightlife that's associated with
the square. Lots of bands that play Amsterdam stay here,
hence the name and the rock music theme, so you can expect
a livel y atmosphere, especiall y at its private bar and billiard
room that's onl y open to guests. Q 22 rooms (singles from
59, doubles/twin from 88, triples from 138, quads and
quintuples from 198). TJALGW
Hotel Clemens E-5, Raadhuisstraat 39, tel. (+31) 206
24 60 89, fax (+31) 206 26 96 58, info@clemenshotel.
nl, www.clemenshotel.com. As with many two-star Am-
sterdam hotels, you have to ascend a steep set of stairs
to reach reception, but once inside you probabl y won't be
disappointed. Each of its nine rooms is slightl y different, but
as a general rule the budget rooms are smaller and share
toilets and showers out in the corridor, while the deluxe
rooms are a bit bigger and have a few added amenities like
private bathrooms. All rooms include TV, phone, hair dryer,
small refrigerator and safe. Al though not exactl y fashionable,
the accommodation here has a bit of old world elegance and
breakfast is served in the cosy reception area whose main
attraction is an electric faux fireplace. Unfortunatel y, one of
the rooms we visited smelled a bit musty, but that appeared
to be a fluke. Q 9 rooms (2 singles 55, 4 doubles 70 - 110,
3 triples 150). R
Hotel Tamara A-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 144, tel.
(+31) 206 24 24 84. Al though it refers to itself as a super
budget hotel, super-friendl y would also be an apt description.
We're not going to lie to you. This place is all about expecta-
tions. If you're used to creature comforts, then give Tamara
a pass. But if you don't mind sleeping in a tiny, closet-sized
room with a clean army cot and a sink to save a bundle of
money then you may have found the ideal place to rest your
head in the centre of Amsterdam. Six-bed dorm rooms are
also available. Q (singles 40, doubles 55, triples 70,
six-bed dorms 17.50/person). R
Nadia Hotel E-5, Raadhuisstraat 51, tel. (+31) 206 20
15 50, fax (+31) 204 28 15 07, www.nadia.nl. Of all the
budget options in this area, and there are quite a few, this one
seems to be the best. The staff are friendl y, the reception
area decorated with a huge collection of miniature Amsterdam
houses is cosy and the rooms, al though tiny, somehow man-
age to cram in a bed, TV, refrigerator, phone and even private
bathrooms. Some of the street side rooms have a bit of traffic
noise, while others on the canal side are more peaceful. In
fact, some even offer balconies with excellent views of the
canal. In short, it's like staying in a cosy cabin on a ship or
in the guest room at Frodo Baggins' house. Q 45 rooms
(singles, doubles, triples and quads from 65). W
Bed & Breakfast
B&B All in the family G-6, 2e Eglantierdwarsstraat
10, tel. (+31) 207 76 36 36, www.allinthefamily.nl.
Among arty shops and tiny restaurants in the Jordaan, you'll
find this bed and breakfast with onl y two rooms. It's owned
by a cheerful couple that enjoys sharing their house and
knowledge of the city with their guests. Squeeze yourself into
the old fashioned Dutch kitchen for breakfast or in the small
backyard where you can hear birds singing. Both rooms are in
the attic, but we like the one near the original hoisting beam
on the facade. Expect cosy accommodation with comfortable
double beds, washbasin, fridge, fan, water kettle and a shared
bathroom. Q 2 rooms (doubles 95 - 110).
Hostels
Bob's Youth Hostel A-1, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 92,
tel. (+31) 206 23 00 63, www.bobsyouthhostel.nl. Onl y
a short walk from the Central Station, this legendary Amster-
dam hostel is one of the few of its genre that specialises in
walk-in business, so as long as you show up before evening
there's a good chance you'll get a bed here even on a week-
end. Rooms are often located in a nearby building with stairs
so steep you'd think the Hillary Step was at the top. Rooms are
basic with bunk beds, but each dorm has its own washroom.
Unfortunatel y, there was no hot water when we stayed there.
Perhaps it just takes a reall y long time to reach the third floor.
Q 144 beds (dorm beds 18 - 23). A
Tourist Inn A-1, Spuistraat 52, tel. (+31) 204 21 58 41,
fax (+31) 204 27 09 00, www.tourist-inn.nl. Part hotel,
part hostel, the aptl y named Tourist Inn offers clean recentl y
renovated singles, doubles and triples with flat screen TVs,
wireless internet access, air conditioning and private bath-
rooms with shower and hair dryer or slightl y cheaper rooms
with shared toilets and showers. Six-bed dorms with clean
bunk beds, TVs, lockers and wi-fi are also a bargain and the
shared toilet and shower facili ties are clean and modern.
Breakfast is included in the price and four computers with
internet access are available in the reception area for a small
fee. Did we mention that it's a short walk from the Central
Station? Q 22 rooms (singles, doubles and triples from 60,
dorm beds 20 - 35/person). PAW
20
RESTAURANTS
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child friendl y I Fireplace
X Smoking section U Facilities for the disabled
W Free wireless internet 6 Pets allowed
Symbol key
If there's an exotic cuisine that you can't do without,
there's a good chance that you'll find a restaurant in Am-
sterdam that's got it covered. In addition to excellent Asian
restaurants in Chinatown, there are plenty of establish-
ments specialising in Dutch and international food, but
don't pass up an opportunity to try delicious dishes from
Holland's former colonies - namely Indonesia and Suri-
name. Foodies can also dine at restaurants with Michelin
stars and late night clubbers will have no trouble finding a
kebab, burger or fries. Prices in parentheses indicate the
average cost of a main course only.
American
Hard Rock Caf F-8, Max Euweplein 57 - 61, tel. (+31)
205 23 76 25, www.hardrock.com. If you've been living in
a cave for the last 30 years then there might be a small possi-
bility that you've never heard of this place. Nevertheless, if you
like rock music, rock memorabilia, huge, but pricey, servings
of pub food like enormous burgers, barbecue and Tex-Mex
from the States, not to mention canal side dining and drinking
not far from the Rijksmuseum, then look no further than this
huge chain of American bar/restaurants. Naturall y, you can
also buy all kinds of Hard Rock souvenirs at its shop, which
is often part and parcel of the experience. QOpen 11:30
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:00. (15 - 20). AEB
Argentinian
Argentino Luna D-5, Lindengracht 152, tel. (+31) 206
27 41 49, info@restaurantluna.nl, www.restaurantluna.
nl. Uruguayan footballer Luiz Suarez's shirt decorates one
of the walls of this wonderful restaurant. It's not big and the
tables are reall y cramped, but that seems onl y to contribute
to the cosy atmosphere. South Americans from all over the
Netherlands come here for the imported steaks prepared by
Argentinian grill masters and a cold Quilmes beer. We recom-
mend the entrecote steak wi th Roquefort sauce and the
Argentinian coffee with a shot of Legui liquor. Enjoy live music
on Fridays and Saturdays. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00
- 23:00. (25 - 30). TJA6UEGBKS
Asian
Momo F-9, Hobbemastraat 1, tel. (+31) 206 71 74 74,
www.momo-amsterdam.nl. The spacious Momo is housed
on the ground floor of the recently renovated Park Hotel. It's an
ultra trendy restaurant where every square centimetre is imbued
with style including the triangular bar, which is a masterpiece
of modern design. No matter what you order, every bite is an
experience. In contrast to other restaurants where you can wait
for hours, this place offers the efficiency of an assembly line.
Male patrons will no doubt also enjoy the inexplicable number
of beautiful women roaming the place in the evening when it
becomes a popular stop for the cocktail crowd. QOpen 07:00
- 22:30. Set dinner from 50. TJALGKW
Wagamama F-8, Max Euweplein 10, tel. (+31) 205 28
77 78, www.wagamama.nl. Al though a little on the expen-
sive side, Wagamama, which is part of an international chain
of Asian fusion/ramen bars, offers expertl y presented meals
that will satisfy even the largest of appetites. A noodle soup
can cost as much as 16, but that's all part of the experience
of dining at a trendy ramen bar. You also pay for the quick and
attentive service and a great location near Leidseplein. The
onl y disadvantage is that you're often seated quite close to
strangers around you, but that can also be a positive thing
depending on your point of view. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Also at B-3, Amstelstraat 8 (Rembrandt-
plein). (12 - 16). PTJAUVGBKS
Bagels
Bagels & Beans A-2, Raadhuisstraat 18, tel. (+31)
206 38 07 88, www.bagelsbeans.nl. We're not exactl y
sure where the beans fit into the equation, but if you like
plain, whole wheat, tomato, everything, cinnamon and even
gluten-free (whatever that means) bagels with a wide variety
of toppings from hummus, tuna salad or Parma ham to tradi-
tional cream cheese, then head over to this popular chain of
bagel bistros. You can also drink freshl y squeezed fruit and
vegetable juices, al though, try as we might, we can't seem
to find the appeal of cucumber juice. You can also take ad-
vantage of free wi-fi. QOpen 09:01 - 17:32, Sat, Sun 09:58
- 18:02. Also at Keizersgracht 504, tel.(+31) 203 30 55 08;
Haarlemmerdijk 122, tel. (+31) 203 30 41 02. Open 08:59
- 17:31, Sun 10:02 - 17:01; Ferdinand Bolstraat 70, tel. (+31)
206 72 16 10. Open 08:31 - 17:32, Sun 08:58 - 18:01; and
many other locations. (5). ASW
Tony's NY City Bagels H-5, Jodenbreestraat 15, tel.
(+31) 204 21 59 30, www.tonysnycitybagels.nl. Not
far from the Rembrandt House, this sel f-proclaimed New
York bagel shop offers a variety of bagels with even more
toppings from traditional cream cheese to guacamole. Order
a cold sandwich or tuna mel ts and BLT bagels or you can try
brownies, cookies and delicious carrot cake. If you'd rather
eat at home take a bunch with you for 0.90/bagel or 8.50
for 10. Naturall y, coffee, tea and juice are also available in this
bright yellow bistro with high ceilings and views of the street.
Order and pay at the counter. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
08:30 - 18:00, Sun 09:30 - 18:00. (2 - 5).
Village Bagels D-6, Marnixstraat 140, tel. (+31)
204 68 52 86, www.villagebagels.nl. This tiny bagel
caf calls i tsel f a bagel espresso bar and that reall y does
about sum i t up. Americans will be happy to know that in
addi tion to bagels wi th less tradi tional toppings like aged
Dutch cheese and hummus, you can also get pastrami, tuna
or plain cream cheese bagels as well as Arizona ice tea and
Gatorade to wash i t down. I f you're at the Marni xstraat
outlet you'll probabl y want to order takeaway, as there's
hardl y any space here, but i ts other venue offers lots more
room and a summer terrace. QOpen 08:30 - 16:00, Sat
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Also at Vijzelstraat 137, tel.
(+31) 204 27 22 13. Open 07:30 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00
- 18:00. (4 - 6). SW
Bakeries
Bakkerij Lekker Brood en Zo E-4, Keizersgracht 92,
tel. (+31) 206 24 32 57. This local neighbourhood bakery
sells all of the usual items including fresh bread, doughnuts
and muffins, but what sets Lekker Brood en Zo apart is its
excellent selection of cupcakes with everything from tradi-
tional cherry and chocolate frosting to pistachio and even
cola cream. You can sit at half a dozen tables to enjoy your
purchase with a coffee or some juice. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. (2 - 5).
RESTAURANTS
22
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Brazilian
Rodizio B-1, Zeedijk 28, tel. (+31) 639 34 44 14,
www.rodizio.nl. The Zeedijk is the gateway to heaven for
carnivores and at Rodizio you can eat unlimited amounts of
meat - and even salad if you're in an odd mood. This Brazil-
ian restaurant specialises in all-you-can-eat menus and its
waiters serve large kebab skewers which have been cooked
slowly in charcoal ovens. Naturally the cheaper meat is served
first, which means you won't have as much room for the more
refined cuts of flesh. Despite this ruse, a trip to Rodizio is
money well spent. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
(18 - 21). JK
Chinese
Nam Kee B-1, Zeedijk 111 - 113, tel. (+31) 206 24 34
70, www.namkee.net. In our estimation the best Chinese
places have crispy duck and pork hanging in their shop front
windows and this popular place located opposite the FGS He
Hua Temple in Chinatown certainl y fits the bill. Order exotic
dishes with prawns or maybe some eel or just skip the cu-
linary shenanigans and stick with the aforementioned food
hanging in the window which is delicious and costs onl y half
of what you would spend on the seafood dishes. The maitre
d' loves to sing to both the patrons and himself and is often
caught in the act of singing to no one in particular. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. Also at Geldersekade 117, tel. (+31) 206 39
28 46. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 14:30 - 24:00; Marie
Heinekenplein 4, tel. (+31) 206 70 23 36. (10 - 18).
New King B-1, Zeedijk 115 - 117, tel. (+31) 206 25
21 80, www.newking.nl. We were a li ttle apprehensi ve
when we encountered New King, because unlike so many
other restaurants in Chinatown, this one actuall y looks styl-
ish with light coloured wood panelling, red banners of Asian
comic book characters eating food and dark brown wallpaper
that looks like snakeskin. Thankfull y, this wasn't a case of
interior design prevailing over substance. The Mandarin and
Indonesian cuisine is delicious and the prices are surprisingl y
reasonable, too! Order whole fish, steaming bowls of seafood,
crispy duck and pork, dim sum and some more exotic dishes
like frog legs. Cocktails and a decent wine list are also avail-
able. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (12 - 18). A
Oriental City B-2, O.Z. Voorburgwal 177 - 179, tel.
(+31) 206 26 83 52, www.oriental-city.nl. This upmarket
Chinese restaurant occupies three floors of a, unmistakable
corner Red Light district building and offers expensive, yet
delicious cuisine, an extensive wine list and staff in either silk
shirts or black bowties depending on their gender. Aquariums
with exotic fish serve as dcor as well as jade model ships
and of course the ubiquitous red lanterns seen at most Asian
eateries. Order anything from whole fish dishes with the heads
and tails attached and sauted scallops to classic crispy suck
dishes. Many of the clientele wear sui ts and formal wear,
but you don't have to. We certainl y didn't. QOpen 11:30
- 22:30. (15 - 28).
Wing Kee B-1, Zeedijk 76 - 78, tel. (+31) 206 23 56
83. The pink walls and ceiling, the functional tile floor and
other so-called design attributes could hardl y be called
atmospheric or stylish which is precisel y the reason why this
excellent Chinese restaurant is so authentic, but you don't
have to take our word for it. Just look at the photograph above
the bar of Jackie Chan paling around with the owner. Indeed,
with the exception of a few wayward tourists and one travel
writer, the Wing Kee's clientele seems to consist of mostl y
Asian patrons - al ways a good sign in our book. QOpen
11:30 - 24:00. (10 - 20).
Diners
Soup Kitchen A-1, Nieuwendijk 50, tel. (+31) 205 28
71 75, www.soupkitchen.nl. No, it's not the kind of soup
kitchen you might have in mind where the homeless and drug
addicts queue up for free food. For 4.50 you can choose from
six different soups including French onion, tomato, mushroom,
spinach, tom kha kai or sweet potato. You can also try burg-
ers, a weak interpretation of an English breakfast, omelettes
and filled baguettes. If you stick to the soup you'll be alright
and i ts location on a corner near the station guarantees
good people watching. Not impressed by the simple black
and white interior? Order your soup to take away. QOpen
11:00 - 20:00. (5). S
Studio 2 A-3, Singel 504, tel. (+31) 206 23 91 36.
This cosy little caf offers great views of the bustling Flower
Market outside, not to mention excellent traditional Dutch
dishes like green pea soup, omelettes, pancakes, apple
pie and, like most places, an English breakfast for tourists.
The food is incredibl y cheap by city centre standards, but if
you're not hungry it's also a good place to take a break from
shopping and sightseeing with a coffee or a beer. QOpen
09:30 - 17:30. (5 - 8). A
The Corner A-1, Martelaarsgracht 26, tel. (+31) 206
24 87 00. Fancy a big fry up at 20:00? No problem. This grey
and white diner, or greasy spoon as the Americans say, serves
up a variety of big breakfasts all day long. You can also order
prawns with fries, steak with fries and a whole lot of other
food with fries, but most people seem to come for the eggs
with all the trimmings for a good price. The music is boring,
the candlelight a little too refined for the surroundings and
occasionall y the smells from the deep fryer can permeate
the place, but it's hard to beat for a hearty meal of bacon,
sausages and the like. Q (7 - 12). B
Dutch
De Keuken Van 1870 A-1, Spuistraat 4, tel. (+31) 206
20 40 18, www.keukenvan1870.nl. This popular Dutch
restaurant has a refined, minimalist interior of light wood
furni ture, bone coloured walls and original purple stained
glass windows, not to mention an open-plan kitchen at the
far end of the hall. In other words, it's a huge departure from
most local restaurants that cash in on their medieval dcor.
As the name suggests, The Kitchen from 1870 specialises
in classic Dutch dishes from a variety of stamppot (potato
and vegetable mash with meat and gravy) and Dutch beef-
steak to mussels and herring starters for affordable prices,
which is why it's almost al ways packed. A good selection of
beer and wine is available and the onl y thing that doesn't fit
in with the national theme is the music which can be salsa
one night and R&B the next. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. Closed
Sun. (9 - 12). AB
Haesje Claes A-2, Spuistraat 273 - 275, tel. (+31) 206
24 99 98, info@haesjeclaes.nl, www.haesjeclaes.nl.
This classic Dutch restaurant spans six historic Amsterdam
houses, many of which still retain their original architectural
features including medieval paintings, stained glass windows
and tile tableaux. Order traditional dishes like pea soup with
sausages and sal ted herring, not to mention three different
kinds of stamppot (potato and vegetable mash) from which
to choose. Plenty of seafood is also on offer from salmon in
Hollandaise sauce to oysters on the half shell and steamed
mussels. The service is a bit stiff and formal, but the selec-
tion of beer from local city breweries De Prael and t IJ is as
good as it gets. Naturall y, a good wine list is also available.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (15 - 22). AB
RESTAURANTS
23
RESTAURANTS
't Lieverdje A-3, Singel 415, tel. (+31) 206 24 73 16.
This unpretentious caf and bar serves up classic homemade
Dutch dishes like stamppot, frikandel and apple pie for afford-
able prices. A good selection of strong Belgian beers is also
at your disposal but bear in mind that the resident cat might
choose to sit in your lap if you're male. Apparentl y, it doesn't
like women or so the owner claims. A pleasant rustic interior
with large brass candelabras and even an antique chandelier
guarantee a cosy stay here, but remember that during peek
eating times you'll have to sit at the bar if you onl y want a
drink. Tables are reserved for hungry patrons. QOpen 12:00
- 21:00. Closed Sun. (6 - 12). B
Ethiopian
Ibssa J-8, Blasiusstraat 62, tel. (+31) 206 63 39 63,
www.restaurantibssa.nl. Al though you may feel a li ttle
uneasy about dining at a restaurant serving cuisine from a
country where millions of people are starving as a resul t of a
drought, we recommend you put aside your squeamishness
and visit this simple Ethiopian restaurant, which looks and
feels like somebody's li ving room. The dcor may not be
Ibssa's biggest attraction, but the food most certainl y is and
despite its simple menu you won't go home hungry. It's also
one of the few places in town where it's impolite not to eat with
your hands! QOpen 17:00 - 22:00. (9 - 15). TLK
Fast food
McDonald's Schiphol Noord Loevesteinse Randweg
230, Schiphol, tel. (+31) 206 57 00 45, www.mcdon-
aldsschiphol.nl. This is by far the most interesting of the
three McDonald's outlets in and around Schiphol Airport. The
burgers don't taste any different, nor is the interior, but its
location right next to the Buitenveldertbaan, one of the six run-
ways at Holland's biggest airport, will appeal to planespotters
everywhere. Separated from the aviation action by only a thin
partition, you can see a plane up close and personal every three
minutes. Enormous windows and a massive terrace with bin-
oculars aid the experience. Screens inside display the names
and destinations of all of the arriving and departing aircraft.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. TAUGBKXSW
French
NEW
Anna A-2, Warmoesstraat 111, tel. (+31) 204 28 11 11,
www.restaurantanna.nl. It turns out that there's more on offer
in De Wallen than commercial sex workers, but you should make
a reservation here unless you don't mind waiting for ages to be
seated. Although this long, narrow restaurant is plenty spacious,
the tables are nearly stacked on top of one another, so don't
expect much privacy on an intimate date. Anna is as trendy as
they come, but her well presented dishes are served in miniscule
portions that will leave you craving an after dinner kebab. At least
the table water, which they claim to filter themselves, is free. Have
one of the staff draw you a map to the loo, as you need GPS
navigation to find it. QOpen 12:30 - 22:30, Sat 18:00 - 22:30.
Closed Sun. (24 - 28). TJABK
Luden A-3, Spuistraat 304 - 306, tel. (+31) 206 22
89 79, www.ludenamsterdam.nl. There are literall y two
sides to this place. For lunch and cheap snacks there's a
compact brasserie that faces the Spui, an excellent location
in the centre. For more formal meals, you can choose to dine
underneath the chandeliers of the chic restaurant section in
the back. Both dining areas offer a broad but rather standard
range of French dishes, but if you're low on cash the brasserie
is definitel y your best option. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (11 - 18). PTJAGK
Open E-3, Westerdoksplein 20, tel. (+31) 206 20 10 10,
info@open.nl, www.open.nl. This glass house is situated
on an old rail way bridge, an architectural wonder you won't
want to miss. Diners are afforded a panoramic view of all of
the exciting sights that the IJ and the city centre have to offer.
Unfortunatel y, it appears that the owners have invested too
much in its design and not enough in the expensive cuisine.
Despite the style over substance atmosphere, it's a perfect
place to have a drink, so maybe pass on the food and order
a beer with your view. Q (20 - 23). TABKW
Pompidou Koninginneweg 263, tel. (+31) 206 70 30
55, www.restaurantpompidou.nl. This modern restaurant
where French cuisine plays first fiddle is located a little bit out
of the city centre, in the vibrant district of Oud-Zuid. All those
who love a good glass of wine, traditional French-Mediter-
ranean dishes and art will feel right at home here. Al though
it's a little more expensive than comparable restaurants, its
arty atmosphere makes up for it. The cellar wine bar alone is
worth a visit. QOpen 17:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (40
- 50). PA6GKW
Razmataz D-6, Hugo de Grootplein 7-9-11, tel. (+31)
204 86 84 08, www.razmataz.nl. The biggest advantage
of Razmataz is its multifunctional layout across three rooms.
One is a caf, the other a restaurant and the third is actually an
ice cream parlour. The homemade ice cream is delicious, as is
the fresh roasted coffee and the French and Italian dishes are
prepared with love and affection. In short, there aren't many
spots in Amsterdam-West where you can have a better meal
than in this calm, cosy place. QOpen 08:30 - 01:00, Fri 08:30
- 03:00, Sat 09:00 - 03:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. (18 - 22).
The name bitterballen, or
bitter balls, conjures up all
kinds of images and not
entirely wholesome ideas
from sour edibles hardly fit
for consumption to a sex
toy you might find in the
Red Light district. In fact, these deep-fried morsels
of God knows what are a staple of Dutch cuisine
and are on offer in nearly every brown bar, caf
and restaurant throughout the country. Youll see
refined people in suits and evening dresses gul-
ping down these breadcrumb encrusted snacks at
gallery openings and charity events just as often
as you see construction workers slowly chewing
them with a beer after a days work. Why slowly
you might ask. The soft interior, a ragout of meat,
parsley, onion, spices and other mystery ingredi-
ents is often served at a temperature usually only
seen in magma chambers beneath volcanoes or
on the surface of the sun. This always creates
interesting facial expressions, unusual sucking
sounds and the inevitable grasping for any cold
liquid available, even in experienced Dutch snack
eaters. If youre too scared to try this national
treat, watch our video at www.inyourpocket.
com/Netherlands/Amsterdam/Restaurants. I f
you do decide to give it a go, then dont forget to
dip it in some tasty Dutch mustard.
Bitter... balls?
24
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Greek
De 2 Grieken E-4, Prinsenstraat 20, tel. (+31) 206
25 53 17. This Greek restaurant is perhaps symbolic of
its homeland. The maps of Greece on the wall are wrinkled
and yellowing and the whole place exudes an atmosphere
of faded glory, yet the two Greeks who run the place are still
passionate about their work. You won't find haute cuisine here,
but if you're in the mood for solid peasant fare like moussaka,
souvlaki and some fried squid accompanied by a house wine
or some ouzo, then you won't be disappointed. If you're not
sure what to order, you can't go wrong with the mixed grill,
which comes with four kinds of meat, rice, potatoes, giant'
beans, slaw and fresh tzatziki for about 15. QOpen 17:00
- 23:00. (15). AB
To Ouzeri C-7, De Clercqstraat 106, tel. (+31) 206 18
14 12, www.toouzeri.nl. This small restaurant outside the
city centre serves genuine Greek food for affordable prices.
The best choice is probabl y a selection of tapas that will
satisfy both your hunger and your culinary expectations.
Tiri saganaki (mel ted cheese flamed with Greek brandy) is
definitel y the highlight in addition to homemade yoghurt or
tzatziki. The service may not be the best, but that's also
how you know that it's authenticall y Greek. QOpen 17:00
- 23:00. (17 - 20). TGK
Home delivery
Domino's Pizza E-8, Overtoom 71, tel. (+31) 204 12
21 31. American fast food pizza deli vered to your home
or hotel room. Pies range in price from 7.50 - 17.50 and
you can also order buffalo wings and garlic bread. QOpen
16:00 - 22:30.
Kamasutra B-1, Lange Niezel 9, tel. (+31) 206 26 00
03, www.restaurantkamasutra.nl. Satisfy your cravings
for curries, chicken tikka masala or a spicy vindaloo by having
some classic Indian cuisine delivered to your apartment or
hotel room. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
Indian
Gandhi A-1, Damrak 54, tel. (+31) 206 38 32 22, www.
indianrestaurantgandhi.com. Gandhi is a top-notch Indian
restaurant with attentive staff who serve tasty traditional
Indian curry dishes in a room with no windows and hardl y any
decorations. However, the real surprise is its tacky location
onl y a five-minute walk from Central Station. You could easil y
walk past this hidden treasure, so look for a sauna next to the
entrance. Try the combination menus, which are good value
for money. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00.
(13 - 17). PTJAGK
Meghna H-6, Utrechtsestraat 28, tel. (+31) 206 25 13
92, www.meghna.nl. This tiny Indian restaurant with less
than a dozen tables offers an authentic menu of classic dishes
from the subcontinent and is so popular, even on weeknights,
that it's nearl y al ways full, yet somehow you can al ways get a
table. Sparsel y decorated with artistic renditions of what ap-
pear to be scenes from the Mogul court, the dining experience
isn't about the interior design, but rather culinary indulgence.
Whatever you choose, curries, hot vindaloos or its delicious
tikka mixed grill, you won't be disappointed. Free pappadums
with an incredibl y spicy sauce, of which the owner warned us,
is a nice perk to an already excellent evening. QOpen 17:00
- 23:00. (12 - 18). A
Memories of India B-3, Reguliersdwarsstraat 88, tel.
(+31) 206 23 57 10, www.memoriesofindia.nl. This
restaurant embodies the Indian culinary experience: outstand-
ing food served by attentive, friendl y staff in a traditional,
yet sophisticated interior. If you don't feel like studying the
extensive menu or simply have no knowledge of Indian cuisine
have no fear. A short conversation with the waiter will lead you
to the perfect choice. However, if you yearn for intense spices
or wish to order something that's not on the menu feel free
to ask the staff. The chef has a unique character and this is
somehow magicall y transferred to the dishes. We strongl y
recommend the spicy chicken Jhalfrezi or the milder Amitsari
fried fish and a mango lassi to line your stomach. QOpen
17:00 - 23:30. (20 - 25). PTJHAVGKS
Indonesian
Desa H-9, Ceintuurbaan 103, tel. (+31) 206 71 09 79,
www.restaurantdesa.com. Dutch Indonesian restaurants
almost never excel at choosing original names and Desa,
which means village, is no exception. Then again it does re-
flect the rustic environment of this casual establishment that
serves authentic dishes that are both tasty and affordable.
The chefs are skilled and the staff is friendl y, so Desa might
just be a good place to discover this exotic cuisine. QOpen
17:00 - 23:00. (12 - 14). AK
Kantjil & de Tijger A-3, Spuistraat 291 - 293, tel.
(+31) 206 20 09 94, www.kantjil.nl. Stylish, yet casual,
Kantijl & de Tiger is a good option if you're in the mood for
tasty Indonesian cuisine from local favourites like a variety of
rijsttafels and nasi goring to delicious desserts such as the
green Javanese pancake with coconut and palm sugar syrup.
The exotic smells of the sauces and seasonings are the first
thing one notices upon entering as meals are prepared in an
open-plan kitchen to the left. Although the place does include
some traditional design features like a tiger, palm trees and
bamboo, the interior is generall y a more modern affair. On a
hot day its delicious organic juices or the lemongrass ice tea
reall y hit the spot. QOpen 16:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00
- 23:00. (10 - 25). AB
Padi E-3, Haarlemmerdijk 50, tel. (+31) 206 25 12 80.
This popular neighbourhood Indonesian restaurant is decked
out with rough tree timbers with the bark still on them and
even the wood tables are supported by thick birch logs. Paint-
ings of faraway landscapes with blue skies and water adorn
the walls and a CD of an Asian singer croons gentl y in the
background to add to the mood. The menu isn't particularl y
original but if you aren't accustomed to cuisine from this
exotic archipelago, the friendl y staff can make suggestions
and even offer a 'special' menu in appaling English, French and
Spanish. The servings look like they were pre-fabricated and
then heated in a microwave, but given the amount of food
on the plate it's still a bargain at under 10. QOpen 17:00
- 23:00. (9 - 12). BS
Even cats enjoy cafs in Amsterdam M.Zaprauskis
RESTAURANTS
25
RESTAURANTS
International
BlinQ F-7, Kleine Gartmanplantsoen 5, tel. (+31) 203 30
40 00, www.blinq-amsterdam.nl. BlinQ is one of the latest
additions to Amsterdam's long list of trendy restaurants that
also double as clubs and cocktail bars in the evening. Despite its
stylish aspirations it's actually a nice spot to have an affordable
lunch or an intimate dinner in the evening. The terrace is also a
big plus but the cranky staff seem to have more important things
to do than to attend to their patrons so you might have to wait
a while to get a drink. At the weekend you'll have to queue up
outside and pass BlinQ's face control. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. (19 - 24). JAGBKX
Caf Proust E-4, Noordermarkt 4, tel. (+31) 206 23
91 45, www.goodfoodgroup.nl/proust.html. Popular with
local 20- and 30-somethings, this stylish caf is decorated
with blackboard art (you'll see what we mean when you get
there) and two long mirrors on opposite walls that create an
odd optical illusion, but its most striking feature is the huge
lamp hanging above the bar that looks like a revol ver. You
can order a good cocktail or a tasty brew, but the menu is
also worth a look and offers such interesting dishes as lamb
burgers with harissa sauce. Caf Proust also has a small
terrace but you might want to reserve a spot ahead of time
or get here earl y. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 09:00
- 24:00. (10 - 18). B
Caf Spargo K-6, Linnaeusstraat 37a, tel. (+31) 206
94 11 40, cafespargo@gmail.com, www.cafespargo.
nl. If long waiting times don't bother you, you've come to
the right place. The great view of the Oosterpark from the
terrace makes this a relaxed place for a drink, but as far as
we're concerned, the food has been on the decline since
the new owner took over. Soggy sandwiches, small por-
tions, mistaken orders and uninterested staff make visiting
this bar and restaurant sound anything but attractive. It's
location is, however, enviable, hence Spargo's populari ty.
QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. (15 - 18).
T6LGBKXW
Caf-Vino K-7, Krugerplein 23, tel. (+31) 207 79 25 20,
info@caf-vino.nl, www.caf-vino.nl. In the past few years
East Amsterdam has developed into a hip place to see and
be seen and since 2009 Caf-Vino has been one of its most
popular restaurants. This of course could have something to
do with the affordable food, good breakfasts and the lovel y
walnut trees outside that make the terrace an ideal spot on
a summer's day. The simple menu may not offer a lot of sur-
prises, but the mushrooms with walnuts and cream prepared
in a wok are a first class. Vegetarians will also find plenty
of decent choices but we recommend the tasty quiches.
QOpen 08:30 - 21:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 21:00. Closed
Mon. (14 - 18). PTAUGBKW
De Bakkerswinkel B-1, Warmoesstraat 69, tel. (+31)
204 89 80 00, www.debakkerswinkel.nl. This long,
narrow industrial-looking space with pipes and wires hang-
ing from the ceiling provides a bright, refined atmosphere
illuminated by a number of skylights. You can expect classical
music, a fresh flower on each table and gourmet sweets,
breakfasts, lunch and a whole menu dedicated to high tea.
Meals are prepared behind a long counter to the right side
that's covered in delicious pies and cakes. The Baker's Shop
is by no means cheap, but style and taste don't come for
free. Two small tables are also available out on the street
when the weather cooperates. QOpen 08:00 - 17:30, Mon
10:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Also at G-9, Roelof
Hartstraat 68, (+31) 206 62 35 94. Open 07:30 - 17:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. AB
De Beiaard A-3, Spui 30, tel. (+31) 206 22 51
10, www.beiaardgroep.eu. I f you like to watch trams
pass by whil e drinking one of over 50 di fferent beers,
most of whi ch are from Bel gium, not to menti on i ts own
mi crobrews, then you should defini tel y gi ve this place a
go. Needl ess to say, the interi or is, wi th the excepti on of
the popular sun porch, typi call y brown. Should you need
something to prepare your stomach for the onslaught of
deli ci ous Trappist concocti ons, De Beiaard also offers
soups, snacks and salads as well as some affordabl e
internati onal dishes from chi cken satay to beef stew and
food specials after 16:00. I f you're l ooking for an instant
buzz tr y the 9% Steenbrugge Tripel on draught. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. (7 - 15).
NEW
REM eiland Haparandadam 45 - 2, tel. (+31) 206 88
55 01, info@remeiland.com, www.remeiland.com. Not
many Amsterdam restaurants have a history as rich as REM
and that's saying a lot given its relativel y young existence.
For years underground TV programmes were broadcast from
this artificial island in the international waters of the North
Sea. Despite the station's tremendous popularity, the govern-
ment closed the illegal station, raiding it in 1964. It seemed
that the remarkable red and white building was doomed to
demolition when two restaurateurs saved the crumbling scrap
heap. The resul t has been moored at the Haparanda Dam
since the summer of 2011 and is now regarded as one of
the most unique restaurants in the Dutch capital. The former
helipad provides great panoramic views of the busy River IJ
and the fascinating architecture of Amsterdam North from
a height of 80m. The menu is limited but offers enough to
satisfy meat lovers as well as fish fanatics and vegetarians.
QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon.
(17.50). A6LK
26
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Italian
Assaggi D-5, Tweede Egelantiersdwarsstraat 6, tel.
(+31) 204 20 55 89, info@assaggiristorante.nl, www.as-
saggirestaurant.nl. With many cuisines a purel y traditional
menu is a sign of poverty or laziness, but that's not true of
Italian food. The homemade pasta at Assagi is served in a
wide variety of styles and its seafood dishes are particularl y
good, not to mention affordable. The staff is friendl y, the at-
mosphere is pleasant and the desserts are excellent. Make
sure to save some room for the divine lemon pie. Q Open
10:00 - 15:30, 18:00 - 23:00, Wed 18:00 - 23:00. Closed
Sun. (19 - 22). JGBKX
Comfort Caffe Sumatrastraat 28 - 30, tel. (+31) 204
63 00 92, www.comfortcaffe.nl. Sometimes we hesitate
to write about yet another fabulous find fearing that the at-
mosphere will be ruined, prices doubled or the menu adjusted
to suit the taste of the general public. However, we don't think
that the two grounded owners of Comfort Caffe will ever
change their style. The lady of the house welcomes every visi-
tor with a sincere smile, while her 'little fat Italian man' cooks
to his heart's content in the open kitchen. Regional dishes
from the area of his birth (North Eastern Ital y) take centre
stage and the prices are affordable. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (6 - 11). TLGBK
Il Tramezzino E-4, Haarlemmerstraat 79a, tel. (+31)
207 70 71 31, www.iltramezzino.nl. If you're looking for
something a bit more stylish than your average caf, this trendy
bistro serves up a bright white interior punctuated by some
classic Italian products that are also for sale like Vergnano
coffee, prosecco and Di Saronno amaretto cookies. It also
serves small, but delicious sandwiches with the crusts cut off
filled with fresh ingredients like mozzarella, olive tapenade and
mortadella. Naturally, the coffee is fantastic. If it looks full, just
squeeze in. There's more room in the back. Q (5 - 7).
La Maria Vechtstraat 79, tel. (+31) 206 44 07 12. This
smallish restaurant is a breath of fresh air for anyone who
enjoys simple, good food, but can't be bothered with all of the
frills that come with it. The bright and warm dcor reflects the
casual and inviting attitude of La Maria's two chefs who are
still infused with an old-fashioned passion for their profession.
Expensive PR boys with clever marketing concepts have never
worked their magic here, al though they could definitel y afford
the surprisingl y high prices of the freshl y prepared dishes.
But in the end, the attentive, personal service will probabl y
convince to you to turn a blind eye to the bill. QOpen 18:00
- 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. TK
Mezza Luna Amstelveensweg 172, tel. (+31) 203 31
99 71, www.mezza-luna.nl. Al though this place is more
expensive than many other Italian restaurants in the area, it
isn't a typical tourist trap like the ones that litter Amsterdam's
city centre. The small, but varied menu has a lot of authentic
rural dishes, but the pizzas are just average so you might want
to stick with a main course. The wait staff also go out of their
way to help you. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon.
Pasta Tricolore F-8, P.C. Hooftstraat 52, tel. (+31) 206
64 83 14, www.pastatricolore.nl. This self-proclaimed
paninoteca and trattoria is like a shrine to Italian cuisine. Upon
entering you'll be overwhelmed by the aromas of imported
cheeses, fresh brewed espresso and cooked garlic. Choose
from a wide variety of meats, olives, cheeses, pastas, salads
and desserts from the deli or head to the back for incredible
Italian sandwiches too numerous to mention here to eat on
the premises or to take away. Recommended. QOpen 09:00
- 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (4 - 6). AB
Japanese
Yamazato Ferdinand Bolstraat 333 (Hotel Okura), tel.
(+31) 206 78 74 50, www.yamazato.nl. The best time to
visit the onl y Japanese restaurant in Europe with a Michelin
star is in the spring when the cherry blossoms in its private
garden are in bloom. But even if you dine here in the dead
of winter you won't be disappointed with the classic Sukiya-
style interior, the staff in authentic kimono or the traditional
Kaiseki cuisine. When the restaurant first opened in the
1970s it flew local fish suppliers to Japan to show them how
seafood was supposed to be presented for consumption,
which means that the fish they now serve is up to Japanese
standards and the more exotic additions to the menu are
flown in from Japan. You can also order a traditional breakfast
if you reserve it in advance. Q Open 12:00 - 14:00, 18:00
- 21:30. (40 - 80). PA
Malaysian
Nyonya Malaysia Express B-2, Kloveniersburgwal
38, tel. (+31) 204 22 24 47. The old adage that 'good
things come in small packages' is certainl y true of this tiny
Malaysian restaurant just off the bustling Nieuwmarkt. From
the outside the miniature planes in the window might put one
in mind of an Asian travel agency, but in reality this is one of
Amsterdam's best ethnic food experiences. Yes, it's compact,
but the food is abundant and the owners are unnaturally kind.
Try the delicious Malaysian pancakes. QOpen 13:00 - 21:00.
(11 - 18). TJGKS
Mediterranean
Dulac E-4, Haarlemmerstraat 118, tel. (+31) 206 24
42 65, info@restaurantdulac.nl, www.restaurantdulac.
nl. The Dulac experience goes something like this. A DJ plays
as you get seated for a meal, but the gold decorations are
hard to look at and the meals with meat are too expensive
for what you actuall y receive. Fortunatel y, the atmosphere
is friendl y, and, as the Dutch would say, gezellig'. If you're a
student you can also get a discount on its delicious Mediter-
ranean specialities, but we prefer the lasagna, risotto or the
pumpkin soup, which never fail. QOpen 15:00 - 01:00, Fri
15:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. (12 - 18). PJEG
Gare de l'est K-3, Cruquiusweg 9, tel. (+31) 204 63
06 20, www.garedelest.nl. Gare de l'est is located in a
former coffee house buil t in 1901 for local workers on the
cattle and freight trains of the Eastern dock warehouses.
These days the interior has a southern Mediterranean feel.
You can expect a different three-course meal prepared every
day by professional chefs. Al though there isn't much on offer
for vegetarians, they'll fix something special for you if you ask
them. Al though it's located a little out of the city centre, it's
definitel y worth a visit, especiall y if you like to be surprised
by the chef's improvisations. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. (25
- 30). TALGBKX
Lempicka I-8, Sarphatistraat 23, tel. (+31) 206 22
02 09, info@barlempicka.com, www.barlempicka.
com. I t's impossible to miss the wide windows, the broad
terrace and the sensational bar - even from the outside.
Lempi cka i s a si ght for sore eyes, especiall y for the
theatregoers who've been entertained/bored at the im-
mensel y popular Carre Theatre around the corner. The
Medi terranean menu might lack a li ttle inspiration, but the
delicious chocolate mousse is to die for! For the creati ve
among you, i t organises cinema nights on Mondays and DJs
on Fridays. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00.
(14 - 19). TJBKW
RESTAURANTS
27
RESTAURANTS
Mexican
Guadalupe B-1, Prins Hendrik Kade 92, tel. (+31)
204 20 61 14. Chunky wooden tables, leather placemats,
genuine calfskin booths and Mexican music playing in the
background: this South of the Border steakhouse has all of
the kitsch thoroughly covered. But even if you don't like grilled
Argentine meat, burritos, chimichangas or tapas, Guadalupe
can also rustle up Dutch and English breakfasts, pancakes
and omelettes not to mention a good selection of interna-
tional desserts including banana splits. The service is super
friendl y, there's plenty of beer on draught and even a decent
wine list. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (10 - 20). A
Los Pilones D-5, Eerste Anjeliersdwarsstraat 4 - 6, tel.
(+31) 206 20 03 23, www.lospilones.com. Although quite
colourful, and definitel y not lacking in the dcor department,
Los Pilones chose to forgo the usual embellishments of som-
breros and cacti in favour of Mexican wrestling memorabilia
including a giant mural of one of the sport's icons. The menu
is limited to tortillas, soft shell tacos and enchiladas, but the
food is good and the salsa that comes with the gratis chips
is surprisingly spicy. Naturally, you can order one of the 185 (!)
tequila's, like Los Pilones, and Dos Equis and Negra Modello
beers in addition to the ubiquitous Corona. Get here earl y or
you'll be stuck on the wrong side of the border. QOpen 16:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. Also at F-8, Kerkstraat 63,
tel. (+31) 203 20 46 5; B-1, Geldersekade 111 (Nieuwmarkt).
(20 - 25). PTJAGBK
The Mexican A-2, Damstraat 36, tel. (+31) 204 21
82 98, themexicanamsterdam@hotmail.com, www.the-
mexican.nl. Several questions come to mind when eating at
The Mexican. Why is there a dinner table underneath the open
staircase? Why does the meat in a chicken wrap look and
taste like tuna? And why is The Mexican's cook from Nepal?
The restaurant looks like a typical tourist trap with kitschy
decorations, overpriced food and too many tables. On the
bright side, our friendl y waiter, who was actuall y Latvian and
not from south of the border, didn't mind answering all of our
questions. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00. (12
- 15). PTJAGK
Moroccan
Bazar H-8, Albert Cuypstraat 182, tel. (+31) 206 75
05 44, www.bazaramsterdam.com. Located in a huge
space that appears to be a former synagogue in the middle
of Amsterdam's most famous street market, Bazar offers
a huge menu of delicious halal Turkish, Middle Eastern and
North African dishes too numerous to mention here. Suffice
i t to say, that you can get anything from kebabs, falafel and
hummus to exotic seafood and lots of cuisine wi th tangy
hari ssa sauce. Dine under enormous Moroccan-styl e
lamps on the second floor balcony or below mul ticoloured
flashing Christmas lights on the ground floor. The food is
refreshingl y affordable and the atmosphere is friendl y and
casual. Despi te the Islamic dcor, plenty of beer, wine and
spiri ts can be ordered at the central bar. QOpen 11:00
- 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00
- 24:00. (6 - 12). A
North African
Ranara Polonceaukade 40 (Westergasfabriek), tel.
(+31) 204 86 71 09, www.rainarai.nl. It's no mirage. The
lonel y brick building at the far end of the Westergasfabriek
is a cosy oasis from the otherwise bland surroundings of
empty space on one side and boring residential housing
blocks across the street. Let the aroma of North African
spices emanating from the open-plan kitchen lure you inside
for a culinary experience you won't soon forget. Al though
you can try traditional tagines as main courses, you might
get a broader introduction to this exotic cuisine by ordering
the chef's special mezze menu that includes five different
dishes. In the summer you can also sit outside on carpets
and enjoy a mint tea in the sun. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
Closed Mon. (20). B
Organic
Restaurant As Prinses Irenestraat 19, tel. (+31) 206
44 01 00, info@restaurantas.nl, www.restaurantas.nl.
You'll need good credit and an impressive bank statement
to eat here and you'll also have to somehow manage to get
the attention of the slow, somewhat arrogant staff, but the
attractive location in the Beatrix Park is the real reason to
people visit this place. The restaurant has great atmosphere
and the passionate chefs use organic regional produce
when possible and offer specialised theme menus from
time to time. Unfortunatel y, the main menu, if you can get
one, is small, but it does offer something for everyone. Too
bad it doesn't mention any prices! Q Open 12:00 - 15:00;
19:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (three-course dinner 40 - 52).
AULGBKX
Restaurant Proef Gosschalklaan 12, tel. (+31)
206 82 26 56, info@proefamsterdam.nl, www.pro-
efamsterdam.nl. I f you come up wi th a trendy idea in
Amsterdam, you can expect a large following in no time.
Proef is a good exampl e. This organi c restaurant is a
hi t wi th the beauti ful peopl e and their hangers-on, but
meat-l overs will find i t as appealing as a wheat grass
smoothie. The slogan 'a piece of nature in the ci ty' fi ts
the not all too original concept very well and i f you're keen
on vegetables you'll be pleasantl y surprised by a variety
of forgotten heirloom legumes, many of which are plucked
from i ts pri vate garden or nearby farms. The al ternati ve
style dcor creates a pleasant atmosphere and the staff
are fri endl y, especiall y by l ocal standards, but bear in
mind that veggies here aren't as cheap as you may have
thought. Q Open 18:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 16:00;
18:00 - 22:00. (24 - 28). TJLBK
Al t hough many Euro-
peans take it for granted,
the Dutch restaurant
industrys custom of off-
ering separate lunch and
dinner menus may come
as a surprise to visitors
from across the pond.
In many cafs, bars and
other eating and drinking
establishments in the Netherlands its often policy
to provide lighter meals like sandwiches, soups,
salads and some breakfast food until roughly
16:00. Afterward it may be only possible to order
snacks until the dinner menu, which will offer
heartier hot meals at higher prices, comes into
effect around 18:00. This menu will once again
only be valid until 23:00 at the latest, although it
may still be possible to order some Dutch treats
like bitterballen until midnight.
Lunch vs. dinner
28
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Pancakes
Pancakes! Amsterdam E-7, Berenstraat 38, tel.
(+31) 205 28 97 97, www.pancakesamsterdam.nl. It's
snug, it's child-friendl y and it's definitel y very Dutch. With real
Dutch pancakes - both sweet and savoury - and a homey
open kitchen, you can't deny that Pancakes! Amsterdam is
smothered in Dutch tradition. Unfortunately, the tiny, minimal-
ist interior painted in stylish white, brown and blue is usuall y
flooded with tourists and their kids, getting a seat after 19:00
is nearl y impossible and the service is rather sluggish - even
if you're the onl y patron. And everyone knows: snug but slug-
gish isn't for every impatient kid. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. (6
- 12). PTJAGK
The Pancake Bakery E-4, Prinsengracht 191, tel.
(+31) 206 25 13 33, www.pancake.nl. Al though this
cellar pancake house feels a bit like a tourist trap, especiall y
given its close location to the throngs of visitors at the Anne
Frank House, it serves scores of authentic Dutch pancakes
and omelettes and that's pretty much it. In other words, a
very simple, yet popular concept. Each of its marble-topped
tables has a big ceramic bucket of local syrup with a wooden
spoon as well as a container of powdered sugar, the walls
are covered in Amsterdam memorabilia and the low timber
ceilings are simpl y charming, but the aroma of pancakes on
the griddle can be a little overwhelming by the kitchen. Order
them with bacon, onions and cheese, with ice cream and cin-
namon or dozens of other toppings either sweet or savoury.
QOpen 12:00 - 21:30. (8 - 15).
Pizza
De Pizzabakkers D-3, Haarlemmerdijk 128, tel. (+31)
204 27 41 44, www.depizzabakkers.nl. This trendy piz-
zeria has exposed brick walls, lots of wooden shel ves and
counters painted a dull grey and a solitary crystal chandelier
hanging from the ceiling. Roughl y a dozen thin-crust pizzas
are served here including vegetarian options and you can sip
a cappuccino, prosseco or Peroni beer while you wait for your
food. The Pizza Bakers onl y accept credit or bank cards so
put that cash back in your wallet. QOpen 17:00 - 22:00, Fri
17:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (9 - 14). AB
La Perla D-5, Tweede Tuindwarsstraat 14, tel. (+31) 206
24 88 28, www.pizzaperla.nl. A couple of guys franticall y
stoke a wood-fuelled brick pizza oven to keep up with the
large demand for thin-crust pizzas that have locals queued
up outside. But this isn't a fancy, sit-down establishment,
al though it does offer two counters and some stools, which
are almost always occupied. On weekend nights, people order
their gourmet pizzas baked with real Mozzarella di Bufala di
Campana cheese and then sip a glass of wine or an Italian
Dolimiti micro brew outside until one of the master bakers
runs over with their order. Most people, already worked up
into a frenzy by the wonderful aromas, eat it right there on the
street. QOpen 17:00 - 22:00. (10 - 12). AW
New York Pizza F-7, Leidsestraat 23, tel. (+31) 206
22 86 89. Al though New Yorkers might not approve of the
contention that this widespread chain serves authentic Big
Apple pizzas, we have to admit that the slices aren't bad, es-
pecially at the end of a long night of bar hopping. Sandwiches
are also available and you can add as much oregano and
pepper flakes to your pizza as you like. It ain't exactl y Famous
Ray's in Manhattan, but the shoarma slice never ceases to
disappoint us. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00,
Sun 12:00 - 03:00. Also at Spui 2, tel. (+31) 204 20 35 38;
Reguliersbreestraat 51, tel. (+31) 206 25 63 54; Damstraat
24, tel. (+31) 204 22 21 23. (3 - 4). A
Quick eats
Burger Bar A-3, Reguliersbreestraat 9 BG, tel. (+31)
203 30 59 68, www.burger-bar.nl. To put it simpl y: the
best burgers in Amsterdam. Why go for the rainforest-cutting
fast food chains next door when Burger Bar makes the next
best thing to a burger off the barby. Its niche is a simple cre-
ate-your-own burger concept where you choose the type of
meat you want (Irish beef, Black Angus, Phill y steak or even
Kobe), then your toppings and finall y some fries and a drink.
Sometimes annoying techno music seems to clash with the
atmosphere, but given the quality of the burgers, we'll forgive
them. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. Also at
Kolksteeg2, tel. (+31) 206 24 90 49. JAGKSW
Febo A-1, Damrak 6, www.febodelekkerste.nl. This chain
of snack bars, or rather snack shops, offers deep-fried cro-
quettes, frikandel and burgers promptl y placed into vending
machines right after being made, which is why it's often the
recipient of contempt by both Amsterdammers and tourists.
But then again, sober people aren't Febo's target audience.
After a few beers and a few joints when hunger strikes you'll
probably want to avoid the crowds and get the cheapest food
available as quick as possible. If you're worried about the
quality, don't put too much thought into it as you'll probabl y
forget about in the morning, unless, of course, you've got
some major heartburn. Also available at many other locations
throughout town. QOpen 10:30 - 02:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:30
- 04:00. Also at Ferdinand Bolstraat 89B, tel. (+31) 206 79
30 09. Open 11:00 - 22:00, SUn 13:00 - 22:00; Reguliers-
breestraat 38, tel. (+31) 206 23 53 04. Open 11:00 - 03:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 03:00; and many other
locations. (1 - 3). JGS
MAOZ B-3, Muntplein 1, tel. (+31) 204 20 74 35. MAOZ
offers up some pretty decent falafel considering its a fran-
chise operation. Its large, low-cost vegetarian servings which
include an unlimited salad bar to fill your pita is the reason why
it's so popular and tends to be full during peak hours. There
isn't much sitting room inside, so if you order take away you
won't be able to capitalize on the all-you-can-eat salad bar,
which is usuall y surrounded by a large crowd eating as they
stand. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. Also at Leidsestraat 85, tel.
(+31) 206 25 39 13; Damrak 40, tel. (+31) 204 50 99 87; and
Ferdinand Bolstraat 67, tel. (+31) 206 64 80 64. Open 11:00
- 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (3 - 5). JAS
Vlaamse Friteshuis A-1, Voetboogstraat 33, tel. (+31)
206 24 60 75. Difficul t to find, Vlaamse Fritehuis might draw
your attention with the crowds of people standing around on
this quiet street eating fries. Why so popular? In our humble
opinion it serves up the best fries in Amsterdam. And it sticks
to what it's good at because fries are all that it offers. Various
sauces are also available and if you're up for a real Dutch
adventure go for the Oorlog, which is half mayonnaise and half
satay (peanut sauce) topped with chopped onions. QOpen
12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. PRINT (4 - 7). JS
Spanish
NEW
Madrid D-8, Bellamystraat 11, tel. (+31) 204 89 93 75,
www.restaurantemadrid.nl. Although the interior looks tra-
ditional with smoked hams on the walls and all kinds of other
'typicall y Spanish' things, the food is all but predictable. Don't
expect ordinary tapas here, which you can buy all over Amster-
dam these days. This is Iberian haute cuisine. The presenta-
tion of the food gets as much attention from the chefs as the
preparation and the ambience is excellent. Recommended.
QOpen 15:00 - 23:00. (16 - 22). TLBK
RESTAURANTS
29
RESTAURANTS
Steakhouses
La Brasa B-1, Zeedijk 97, tel. (+31) 203 30 63 31. It's
hard to choose a steakhouse in Amsterdam, located as they
are on nearl y every street corner, but this one has certainl y
tried to get a leg up on i ts competi tion as far as interior
design goes. Every square meter of this place from the walls
to the ceiling is covered in wide, roughl y cut wooden planks,
wagon wheels serve as chandeliers and cowhides dangle
from every available surface like the set of an old western.
You can of course get steaks of varying sizes and cuts, but
we recommend a splurge as the special is tasty, but on the
small side. Tuna steaks, prawns and other seafood are also
on offer as well as Argentine beer. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (12 - 24). A
Toro Dorado A-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 22, tel.
(+31) 204 21 86 95, table@torodorado.com, www.
torodorado.com. This is not your average steakhouse.
But what can you expect when the beef you're served is
treated like royal ty and fed on a steady diet of beer and
sake to create the perfect amount of fat and marbling?
The lucky hei fers also get a dail y massage from a personal
assistant. Unfortunatel y, the restaurant staff aren't as at-
tenti ve, but when the tender Kobe beef arri ves you won't
care. Naturall y, all of this li vestock pampering doesn't come
cheap, but the meal was one of the best we've had in a long
time and that's saying a lot. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. Also
at A-1, Spuistraat 3d, tel. (+31) 204 21 86 95. (25 - 30).
PTJAGBKXW
Sushi
Tokyo Cafe A-3, Spui 15, tel. (+31) 204 89 79 18,
info@tokyocafe.nl, www.tokyocafe.nl. As far as top sushi
restaurants go, you'd have a hard time finding a better place
than Tokyo Caf, which is located close to the city's busiest
shopping streets, yet basks in the relative quiet of the Spui
square. Sit down at one of the small, intimate tables and eat
as much sushi as you can stuff down your throat for no more
than 22. Unfortunatel y, you can't order separate pieces of
sushi, but you can sample plenty of ice cream, which seems
to be a rarity at sushi joints. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (22
- 26). PTJGB
Zushi G-7, Amstel 20, tel. (+31) 203 30 68 82, fax (+31)
203 30 68 83, www.zushi.nl. If you're either colour blind
or careful with money, you're better off avoiding this modern
restaurant. Your bill is determined by the colours of the plates
you choose from the conveyor bel t. Anyone who's keen on
Japanese cuisine will enjoy this stylishl y furnished restaurant
with a great view of the Amstel and its extraordinary sushi
and other traditional dishes. It's not the cheapest, but defi-
nitel y one of the best of its genre. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(20 - 25). JK
Thai
Bird B-1, Zeedijk 72 - 74, tel. (+31) 206 20 14 42,
www.thai-bird.nl. This Thai restaurant was one of the
first ethnic eateries to open at the Zeedijk in the 1990s
and to this day i t claims to prepare authentic meals that
are even better than the stuff you'd get in Thailand. A bold
statement to be sure, but i t might just be true. Wai ters in
tradi tional dress serve some of the best fresh green and
red curries you can get in Amsterdam wi th as much whi te
rice as you can eat. The interior is rather less authentic,
but even Christmas lights mi xed wi th plastic Buddhas can't
spoil a trul y satisfying meal at Bird. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00.
(12 - 17). PTJAGKS
Tibetan
Snow Lion E-4, Haarlemmerstraat 50, tel. (+31) 204
22 77 76, snowlionrestaurant@gmail.com. The otherwise
ordinary beige interior of this restaurant is punctuated by
colourful images of the Buddha on one side and the Dalai
Lama on the other. The waitress dressed in traditional garb
had decidedl y Tibetan features, which gave us our first clue
that we may have come to the right place. Order classic drinks
like butter tea or something with a little more kick and then
move on to vegetarian or meat dishes with curry, noodles or
rice or try the special' beef dish which was incredibl y spicy
- just the way we like it. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00. (15).
Upmarket
Ciel Bleu Ferdinand Bolstraat 333 (Hotel Okura), tel.
(+31) 206 78 74 50, www.cielbleu.nl. You could hardl y
think of a better setting for a French restaurant wi th two
Michelin stars than the 23rd floor of the five-star Hotel Okura.
Its renowned executive chef, Onno Kokmeijer, uses only fresh,
seasonal ingredients when preparing his meals and consul ts
often with the restaurant's sommelier to create the perfect
balance between food and wine. Al though the beige dining
hall decorated with unique glass lamps offers elegance and
great views, the so-called Chef's Table where diners sit at a
u-shaped marble counter next to the kitchen is an experience
serious foodies shouldn't pass up. QOpen 18:30 - 22:30.
Closed Sun. (65 - 95). A
D'Vijff Vlieghen A-3, Spuistraat 294 - 302, tel. (+31)
205 30 40 60, www.thefiveflies.com. Don't let the odd in-
sect' theme throw you. The Five Flies is actuall y an upmarket
restaurant housed in an historic building on the Spuistraat.
Al though starters begin at around 20 a piece, you should
bear in mind that it boasts four original Rembrandt etchings,
not to mention a Golden Era interior of Delft tiles and gil t
leather walls. Chef Jeroen Groot specialises in Dutch cuisine
with a modern twist like suckling pig cutlets with vadouvan
gravy or maybe sweetbread wi th stewed cheek of veal.
QOpen 18:00 - 22:00. (30). A
Vietnamese
Vietnam Restaurant B-1, Zeedijk 57, tel. (+31) 206 38
62 34. This green and gold restaurant won't win any awards
for interior design, but it does have some Asian influences
here and there like porcelain idols and bamboo over the bar.
Although it offers plenty of Chinese dishes too, like Peking duck
and egg foo yung, it also offers Vietnamese classics like pho
soup and bun thom thit nuong cha gio which really isn't as
complicated as it sounds. It's basically vermicelli with roast
pork, shrimp, spring rolls and lettuce served in a big bowl with
a vinegar chilli sauce on the side. Q(8 - 18). A
The ideal Dutch (Belgian) snack on the Damrak MZ
Cafs
Caf Fonteyn B-2, Nieuwmarkt 13 - 15, tel. (+31) 204 22
35 99, www.cafefonteyn.nl. The faded floral print wallpaper
and wobbly chairs might make one suspect that Fonteyn has
fallen on hard times, but that couldn't be farther from the truth.
A laid back atmosphere, a good selection of beers including one
or two brews from the IJ brewery and a huge summer terrace
on the Nieuwmarkt make it popular with locals and tourists
alike, especially bohemian 20-somethings. You can also order
vitamin drinks, 100% fruit juices like apple-rhubarb and cocktails
after 16:00. Sandwiches and Dutch snacks can also be had,
but it doesn't serve proper dinners. An iced cappuccino does,
however, hit the spot on a hot and sunny day. QOpen 10:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. BW
Caf Kobalt E-4, Singel 2a, tel. (+31) 203 20 15 59,
www.cafekobalt.nl. Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and
late night cocktails, this incredibly popular eating and drinking
establishment is located in a medieval building with, rough,
worn floors, ancient timber ceilings and columns and a typi-
call y gabled exterior not far from the station. Locals know
that a table reservation is a wise choice in the evening and
even in the afternoon if one wants to enjoy affordable Dutch
and international cuisine not to mention a good selection of
draught beers from the Amsterdam IJ brewery. You can also
listen to DJs on Friday nights and live jazz on Sundays from
17:00. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun
10:00 - 01:00. (8 - 15). AIEB
Caf Van Zuylen A-2, Torensteeg 4 - 8, tel. (+31) 206
39 10 55, www.cafevanzuylen.nl. This quiet, yet popular
caf offers a bright interior with great views, wood tables and
hardwood floors as well as wood benches along the walls so
you can get to know your neighbours better. Al though Van
Zuylen serves sandwiches and toasties we recommend its
brownies, cakes or, better yet, one of its breakfasts from a
standard continental to fried eggs and bacon. In the evening
locals come for wine, cocktails and draught beer until after
midnight. The caf is actually split in two parts, so if one is too
crowded just try the one next door. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. (5 - 12). A
De Duvel H-9, Eerste van der Helststraat 59 - 61, tel.
(+371) 206 75 75 17, www.deduvel.nl. Al though most
of the interior is of a milk chocolate hue, you could hardl y call
De Duvel a brown bar. This popular caf has a classy interior
of dark hardwood floors, chic, yet comfortable, couches, an
incredibl y long mirror on one wall and giant black and white
photos at the back. During the day you can eat simple, aff-
ordable soups and sandwiches, while in the evening dishes
become a bi t more upmarket wi th seasonal offerings like
halibut carpaccio and rib eye of veal with barnaise sauce. The
beer selection is also nothing to sneeze at and its candlelit
tables spill out onto the street via sliding doors in the summer.
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Mon 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (6 - 15). AB
George Deli U.S.A. H-6, Utrechtsestraat 17, tel. (+31)
203 30 01 71, www.cafegeorge.nl. This impressive bistro
not far from Rembrandtplein is located above the posh Marqt
supermarket and it offers a black and white interior that includes
a huge counter bar and tabletops made of marble. You can drop
by any time of the day and order great breakfasts like eggs
Benedict or Florentine, freshly made sandwiches from classic
Ruebens and BLTs to lox and bagels or spend a little more
money and splurge on oysters, lobster or king crab with a glass
of Champagne or shot of Grey Goose vodka. Gourmet coffee
and tempting desserts like brownies and carrot cake are also
on the menu. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. (5 - 10). A
t Nieuwe Kaf A-2, Eggertstraat 8/Dam, tel. (+31)
206 27 28 30. In the summer it isn't hard to find this caf.
Just look for the huge terrace next to the Nieuwe Kerk (New
Church) overlooking the Dam. You'll have great views of the
palace and all of the usual bustle on the square, but bear
in mind that you'll also pay a little more for your sandwich,
salad or burger given its prominent location. That said, the
uitsmijter with roast beef was one of the best we've had and
that's saying quite a lot. The interior is surprisingl y modern
with a grey and black colour scheme and sil ver upholstered
pleather chairs. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. (10 - 14). B
Villa Zeezicht A-2, Torensteeg 7, tel. (+31) 206 26 74
33. This charming caf is decorated with an eclectic mix of
cuckoo clocks, brass chandeliers, modern paintings and even
a stuffed stag's head, yet somehow it all seems to fit. The
worn wooden benches and parquet floors also lend a cosy
vibe, but its best feature is the excellent view of the canal
and the small square outside, as well as a great summer
terrace. Classic dishes like ui tsmij ter for breakfast, soups
and sandwiches for lunch and pastas for dinner can all be had
here. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (8 - 12). AB
Cafeterias
De Bijenkorf Kitchen A-2, Dam 1, tel. 900 09 19 (toll
call), www.debijenkorf.nl. Pass some of the world's biggest
brands like Vuitton and Gucci on your way to the top floor of
this posh department store to reach De Bijenkorf Kitchen
- an upmarket cafeteria that offers a stylish, modern interior
and views of Amsterdam. The Asian stand cooks stir fries to
order, the seafood stand boasts oysters and sushi, you can
order pizzas and pasta at the Italian counter and steaks at
the grill. A much-coveted outdoor terrace with limited seating
is connected to the bar area. Needless to say, the Kitchen
also offers plenty of ice cream, cake and coffee. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 19:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00.
(5 - 12). AB
La Place A-1, Kalverstraat 201 - 203 / Rokin 164, tel.
(+31) 206 20 23 64, www.laplace.nl. When was the last
time you ate at a gourmet cafeteria? If the answer is never'
then head over to La Place which is connected to the V&D
department store on the Kal verstraat. Sample food from
several different buffets that each has its own speciality from
seafood, pizzas and sandwiches to steaks and Asian stir fries
all cooked to order. You can also drop by for delicious des-
serts and coffee and enjoy them on the balcony overlooking
Amsterdam's busiest shopping street below. With seating
for over 300 people you can choose the style that suits you
best such as antique tables wi th marble tops or modern
furniture in the atrium. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Mon, Sun
11:00 - 20:00. (5 - 12). AS
30
CAFS
Amsterdam caf cul ture Lya Cattel
Classic cafs
Beurs van Berlage A-2, Damrak 277 (entrance from
Beurseplein), tel. (+31) 205 31 33 55, www.beursvan-
berlage.nl/caf. If you'd like to see where locals eat, drink and
chat over beer, wine, breakfast food and gourmet sandwiches,
then this li ttle slice of history housed in the monumental
Beurs van Berlage building is the place to go. Not onl y can
you get a good meal, but you can also admire this legendary
example of Amsterdam School architecture and design from
the inside wi th i ts vaul ted ceilings and characteristic tile
tableaux by Jan Toorop. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00
- 18:00. (8 - 15). AB
Caf de Zwart A-3, Spuistraat 334, tel. (+31) 206 24
65 11. This tiny, classic old word caf boasts an inticate, multi-
coloured tile floor, dark wood panneling and inlaid parquet table
tops. A full bar of spirits is manned by a mustachioed gentleman
in a crisp white shirt from whom you can order coffee, tea and a
good selection of local and Belgian draught beers. Snacks like
tostis and liverwurst sandwiches are also on offer as well as
a large outdoor terrace with great views of the hubbub on the
square. Given its prime location, Caf de Zwart's food and drink
are surprisingly cheap. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. B
Caf Scheltema A-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 242,
tel. (+31) 206 23 23 23. This classic Dutch caf's worn
wooden tables, floors and wall panneling have been around
for ages, not to mention the antique memorabilia that seem
to cover every available space. An old stove in the centre of
the room keeps patrons warm on cold days or perhaps its the
jenever and a good selection of Low Country beers that keeps
the chill away. Snacks, sandwiches, soups and local main
courses are available but we recommend the French onion
soup or a hearty country-style omelettes. QOpen 10:00
- 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (7 - 18).
Coffee & Tea
Starbucks F-8, Leidsestraat 101, tel. (+31) 206 24
15 92, www.starbucks.com. Onl y a scant few years ago
Starbucks came to the Netherlands where it easily conquered
the hearts of local Java drinkers. They've finall y also made
i t to Amsterdam where the word coffeeshop di ffers qui te
substantiall y from its counterpart in Seattle. Perhaps this is
the reason they've onl y recentl y entered the market. In any
event, it's everything you'd expect. It's big, comfortable and its
good coffee combos keep a parade of jittery caffeine addicts
queued up at all times. QOpen 07:00 - 00:30, Mon, Tue, Wed
07:00 - 23:30. Also oCentral Station. TJASW
Dessert
NEW
Sitting Room by Peter Scholte F-9, Hobbemastraat
2, tel. (+31) 204 70 19 10, www.sucrerestaurant.nl.
Many chefs in Amsterdam are capable of cooking great
food, but whether or not they're successful often depends
on other factors. Chef de cuisine Peter Schol te travelled the
world in search of inspiration, but eventuall y found fortune
close to home. His small restaurant charmed i ts patrons
wi th di vine dishes an this success allowed him to open a
new place located on the far more trendy Hobbema Street.
The high rent is no doubt the reason why you now have
to pay substantial sums to enjoy his heavenl y creations.
This culinary artist still produces delicious dishes in this
beauti full y decorated building, but the impersonal service,
cool atmosphere and tiny portions left a bi tter taste in our
mouths. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (three-course lunch 25).
TA6LKW
31
CAFS
Dutch lunch rooms
Amarylles B-3, Singel 540, tel. (+31) 206 22 49 47.
Located on the same canal as the Flower Market, this
small caf offers a li ttle bi t of everything from full English
breakfasts around the 10 mark and burgers wi th fries
to classic Dutch peasant food like uitsmijter, pea soup
wi th sausages and pl enty of pancakes for surprisingl y
reasonabl e pri ces. Hal f a dozen small tabl es line the
sidewalk out front where you can sip a German Warsteiner
brew or a morning cup of Joe. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. (6
- 12). AB
Atrium B-3, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 237, tel. (+31)
205 25 39 99, www.sorbon.nl. No, you do not have
to be a student at the Uni versi ty of Amsterdam to have
a cheap lunch here, and yes, you can call the guy behind
the sandwich bar Tony. He's the one that's been making
the sandwiches in this spacious and bright dining hall for
years now. Don't expect too much from the standard food
selection, but you should certainl y try the Dutch salads at
the salad bar. They'll defini tel y make you feel like a student
again. QOpen 11:00 - 19:30, Fri 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. (7). PJGBK
De Taart van m'n Tante (My Auntie's Pie) G-
10, Ferdinand Bolstraat 10, tel. (+31) 207 76 46
00, www.detaart.nl. The li st of Dutch (and forei gn)
cel ebri ti es al one who've tasted the sweet and incredibl e
delicacies served in this tiny, colourful place in Amsterdam
South is more than impressi ve. Perhaps, they all l ove
the pink interi or that puts one in mind of a childrens tea
par ty. Time and again, i ts two owners manage to think of
something innovati ve and deli ci ous from edibl e cl othing
to the ki tschi est wedding cakes in the ci ty. I t's almost
a shame to destroy these beauti ful creati ons by eating
them. Even the window display will get you sali vating, but
note the shor t opening hours, or that's all you'll get to
see. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. TALBKS
Dwaze Zaken B-1, Prins Hendrikkade 50, tel. (+31)
206 12 41 75, eten@dwazezaken.nl, www.dwazeza-
ken.nl. Hal fway between the chaotic and busy worlds of
Central Station and the Red Light District, you'll find this
peaceful oasis. Al though the name (meaning Foolish Things)
suggests di fferentl y, this age-old establishment is anything
but fri volous. I t boasts the atmosphere of an old-fashioned
Dutch pub and i ts friendl y staff serve all kinds of local and
regional cuisine. Naturall y, the food, which is mostl y made
from organic ingredients, doesn't come cheap, but you won't
regret the expense. Every Monday night you can try i ts pot
luck, which includes a plate of food and li ve music for onl y
6! Q TJK
Small Talk Coffee Corner F-9, Willemsparkweg 1,
tel. (+31) 206 62 00 29, www.smalltalkamsterdam.
nl. I f you're l ooking for a qui ck bi te or a coffee before
or after a visi t to the Van Gogh Museum than this busy
li ttl e place on t wo fl oors i sn't a bad opti on. You can
order a vari ety of small sandwi ches, pastri es, salads,
soups and breakfast food, but i ts ser vi ce can best be
described as effi ci ent since you feel like you're par t of a
large caf conveyor bel t. Take the steep winding stairs
to the second fl oor for l ots more seating or stay by the
coffee bar under miniature glass chandeli ers and murals
of interesting women on the walls. You can also tr y i ts
restaurant next door for a full si t down meal wi thout the
inkling that the staff want to hustl e you out the door as
qui ck as possibl e. QOpen 07:30 - 21:30, Sun 10:00
- 20:30. (4 - 8). A
32
NIGHTLIFE
NIGHTLIFE
Amsterdam's nightlife needs no introduction, but needless
to say you'll find whatever you're looking for in this legend-
ary vice capital from fun coffeeshops, raging nightclubs
and packed Irish pubs to classic Dutch brown cafs, brew
pubs and Belgian beer bars. Erotic entertainment like
peep shows, live sex performances and the hard-working
Red Light girls are also never far away.
Bars
Balls F-6, Reguliersdwarstraat 37. This aptl y named pub
doesn't have much to do with sports or, in our estimation,
courageous men, but it does offer three red fel t pool tables
on the second floor for 2 per game. On the ground floor you
can expect a typicall y Dutch brown bar with a not so typical
copper-topped bar with loads of stools. Bavaria beer is poured
from billiard ball taps, but if you'd like something better Duvel
is available in bottles. Rock music seems to rule the realm
here, but you can forgo the guitar chords in the smoking room
where you can watch sports on TV. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00.
Biblos F-7, Lijnbaansgracht 243, tel. (+31) 206 26 21
70. It would take the better part of a day just to describe all
of the junk and clutter that hangs from the ceiling and walls
at Biblos, but here it is in a nutshell: two canoes, 100 or so
licence plates from around the globe, currency both young
and very old, boxing gloves, boat oars, ski poles, bowling
pins and lots and lots of vinyl records. What else can we
say about the atmosphere? It's smoky, packed with both
foreigners and locals and fun. Al though plenty of beers and
cocktails are available, shots seem to be popular. QOpen
21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 04:00. AX
Brandstof D-6, Marnixstraat 357, tel. (+31) 204 22
08 13, www.bar-brandstof.nl. Located across the street
from the fire department, Brandstof (flammable materials) is
absolutel y incandescent at the weekend and given the huge
crowds that congregate here, this trendy caf-cum-club could
definitel y be a fire hazard. You'll have to wait a while until you
finall y reach the bar, which is diml y illuminated by two large
street lamps, so order enough drinks to keep you wet for a
while. Popular with a beautiful, yet casuall y dressed clientele
of 20- and 30-somethings in the evenings. QOpen 08:00
- 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 03:00. AB
Caf de Koe E-7, Marnixstraat 381, tel. (+31) 206 25
44 82, www.cafedekoe.nl. We really like this laid back place
where you can enjoy a good brew or cocktail with a board
game during the day or attempt to mark your territory among
dozens of rowdy patrons at night. It's kind of like walking into a
friend's house party except your best buddy probably doesn't
have a giant white mural of a cow in his living room or glittering
wallpaper plastered to the ceiling above his bar. Al ternative
rock tunes enjoy a prominent position here, which is a good
thing, but the tempting smells from the restaurant below can
bring on a premature case of the munchies. QOpen 16:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. A
Caf De Poort D-3, Haarlemmerdijk 44, tel. (+31) 206
24 72 83. If you're not an Ajax supporter you might want to
give this orange bar covered in Amsterdam football memo-
rabilia a pass. Other than that there's not much decoration
to speak of. It looks like the owners spent all their dough on
the huge flat screen TVs to watch sports. Some good beers
are available on draught including Affligem Dubbel and you can
play pool downstairs for 5/hour, but bear in mind that CCTV
cameras are watching so keep the shenanigans to a minimum.
Darts and a couple of one-armed bandits are also available
and you can smoke to your lungs' content. Q
Caf Heffer A-1, Oudebrugsteeg 7, tel. (+31) 204 28
44 88, www.heffer.nl. Al though lots of establishments
claim to be 'grand cafs' in Holland, Heffer trul y lives up to
this illustrious title. Porcelain beer taps, ceramic jenever jugs,
antique tile floors and gigantic chandeliers hanging from high
ceilings make this elegant place a favouri te among beer
connoisseurs who need a break from dusty brown bars. The
selection of brews is excellent, but many people come for the
delicious cuisine and great desserts. Live sports are often
shown on the big screens. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 03:00. (5 - 15). A
Caf Sound Garden D-6, Marnixstraat 164 - 166, tel.
(+31) 206 20 28 53, www.cafesoundgarden.nl. Being
old Seattle sound enthusiasts oursel ves, we had to come
to this dive bar to see what all the fuss was about. Would
you believe it that as we walked in Soundgarden was blaring
from the speakers? Okay, i t was actuall y Audioslave, but
pretty damn close. If you'd like to see what an old squatter's
bar probabl y looked like before they sold out (but with more
Americans), then this is the place to go. You can play pool
or foosball inside or hit the private canalside terrace, which
must infuriate the posh neighbours next door in the evenings
when things heat up. Inside there's also a smoking room,
not to mention a huge painting of Henry Rollins performing
in naught but his undies. QOpen 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
15:00 - 03:00. EBX
Cafe Thuys C-7, De Clercqstraat 129, tel. (+31) 206 12
08 98. A long walk away from the city centre lies Caf Thuys,
a pleasant brown caf catering to the local neighbourhood.
You'd be hard pressed to meet any foreigners here, but that
might be exactl y what you're looking for, especiall y if you'd
like to practice your Dutch with the friendl y staff. With a warm
space inside and an extended terrace by a bridge over a canal,
Cafe Thuys is also a good place to chill with a delicious La
Chouffe beer. It also prepares a variety of Dutch snacks or
more wholesome dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 03:00. (12 - 15). PAGKW
Caf Wiener B-1, Lange Niezel 8, tel. (+31) 206 24 58
09. Wiener is a real drinking man's bar, which is perhaps the
reason we stumbled in here on our way home from a long
night out. The area behind the bar is crammed with ancient
cassette tapes and photos of half forgotten evenings, while
large sized panties and bras are stapled to ceiling - a me-
mento of earlier days when buxom women once frequented
the place. Today it's a venue for smoking cigarettes, heavy
drinking, darts and Ajax football. It's also usuall y open quite
late. QClosed Tue. X
Snowy winter bridge Amsterdam Toerisme &
Congres Bureau (ATCB)
NIGHTLIFE
33
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33
De Deugniet A-1, Oudebrugsteeg 12, tel. (+31) 206
20 44 27, www.heffer.nl/overige_cafes.html. Owned
by the illustrious Caf Heffer across the street, this cosy
bar is so clean i t looks like you could eat off the beauti ful
tile floor, not that we recommend i t. Al though De Deugniet
certainl y has an antique feel, i t doesn't have that forlorn and
worn look so common to Amsterdam pubs. In fact, i t has
plenty of interesting design features including intricate Art
Deco chandeliers and lamps as well as the Bacchanalian
scenes depicted on the ceiling. You can watch sports on
TV and listen to modern pop music, which are of course
i ts biggest drawbacks, and i ts choice of Venloosch and
Lindeboom draught beers is refreshing. One of the staff is
a numerologist and may even foretell your future. QOpen
15:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun
10:00 - 01:00.
Drink 'n' Sink B-1, Warmoesstraat 58, tel. (+31) 206
27 01 25. We're not sure if the name is a greeting or a
warning, but judging by the happy, inebriated crowds that
occupy the bar and its booths at night, it's probabl y a little of
both. Scream past the ear-shattering classic rock or techno
music and order a Grolsch or a cocktail. Watch sports on
several TVs, escape the mayhem upstairs or play pool in the
basement, but if you think that the drink has sunk you, don't
panic. It's probably just the reflection from an improbable and
unnecessary number of disco balls messing with your head.
Unfortunatel y, you have to pay 0.50 for the dubious toilets
downstairs. Q A
Louis Bar (Caf de Dam) A-2, Damstraat 4, tel. (+31)
206 24 53 31. This place claims to be Amsterdam's small-
est bar and it reall y is quite tiny. Hundreds of beer coasters
adorn the walls and just as many football scarves dangle from
the ceiling. American law enforcement patches and plenty
of Beatles memorabilia also contribute to the dcor of this
iconic watering hole where classic rock seems to dominate
the musical landscape and the beer selection is decent, if
a bit pricey. A sign reads Tipping isn't a city in China' and if
you do decide to leave your bartender some coins he'll put
them in a wooden Ajax shoe behind the bar. QOpen 11:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. BS
Nes Cafe A-2, Nes 33, tel. (+31) 206 23 42 50, info@
nes-cafe.nl, www.nes-cafe.nl. The name of this small,
hidden caf has nothing to do wi th the popular brand of
coffee and it's not even available at the bar. Adored both by
Amsterdammers and the expat community it's a perfect spot
for a game of chess or backgammon, a glass of Gulpener
(its main beer) and a cigarette. Yes, it's smoker-friendl y. But
above all, it's the place for pool players and its main attrac-
tion is an 8ft Brunswick Gold Crown II with Simonis 860 cloth
and Brunswick Centennial balls. For the uninitiated, this is a
reall y cool pool table. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00
- 03:00. JBX
Susie's Saloon B-2, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 254, tel.
(+31) 206 22 89 12, www.susiessaloon.nl. Look for a sign
of a cowgirl (Susie we presume) with a Stetson on her head
and six-shooters in her hands to find this place that looks
more like a Native American lodge than a Western saloon.
Dream catchers, totems and old photos of chiefs in traditional
dress adorn the walls, while football strips and scarves are
pinned to the ceiling hinting at Susie's preferred clientele.
Burgers, sandwiches and big breakfasts are all available as
well as Heineken and Guinness on draught. You can also play
pool, darts or pinball and cigarette smokers can hang out in a
separate smoking room in the back. The music leans toward
hard rock and there are plenty of TVs for sporting events.
QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00.
The Five Bells A-1, Nieuwezijds Kolk 17, tel. (+31)
206 38 60 88. I t's hard to miss the neon beer signs behind
the floor-to-ceiling glass faade of this worn and slightl y
grubby bar. And odd mi x of patrons drink, smoke and eat
here at ei ther the central bar or on faux zebra skin chairs in
the lounge area. Two pool tables are available for 5/hour,
which is a defini te plus in our book, but when we ordered
a strong Belgian brew, we were shocked to recei ve i t in a
hal f li tre Grolsch mug, which is considerabl y more expensi ve
than the usual 0.33l glass. Q AW
The House of Rising G-8, Reguliersdwarsstraat 41,
tel. (+31) 203 20 22 44, www.thehouseofrising.com.
A self-proclaimed shared' place for art, fashion and music',
The House of Rising nurtures local starving artists. Offering
a rather narrow three-storey space dominated by red hues,
it's an art gallery for new talent, a boutique and a mini-club
for drag shows and electro dance evenings all in one. The
House has a distinctive atmosphere all its own and it's a
fantastic addition to the queer-friendl y Leidsedwarsstraat. It
also serves good tapas. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Mon, Sun
16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 04:00. PJE
The Old Bell B-3, Rembrandtplein 46, tel. (+31) 206
20 41 35, www.oldbell.nl. The Old Bell has that generic
British Isles pub feel to it, which isn't necessaril y a bad thing.
Antique windows distort the view of Amsterdam's party
square outside, wall-to-wall wooden furnishings ensure cosi-
ness, Irish and Belgian brews are plentiful and tasty pub grub
like fish 'n' chips, English pies, lamb chops and chicken satay
will defini tel y keep you occupied if you're feeling peckish.
Quotations of folk wisdom such as greedy people have long
arms' can also be found throughout the bar. QOpen 11:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. AB
The Rock In and Roll Out Cafe F-7, Leidseplein 22.
The photos of Pearl Jam and Led Zeppelin were reason enough
to stay for a drink, but the postcard behind the bar of Batman
and Robin passionatel y making out sealed the deal. Classic,
al ternative rock tunes and extreme sports on the big screen
took us back to our skate punk days and it onl y cost us one
slightl y overpriced Affligem double, but it would be wrong to
put a euro figure on a walk down memory lane. The smoke and
lack of space also took us back to our wasted youth. QOpen
10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. ABX
That the Dutch are a frugal lot has never been up
for debate, but, as it turns out, this affects your
lifestyle as much as it does theirs. Although it
could just be a much deserved backlash against
lending and banking institutions in the wake of the
financial crisis, more and more cafs and bars are
reluctant to accept credit and bank cards at their
establishments. In less extreme cases, restau-
rants require a minimum bill of at least 10 - 20 to
accept a card as they have to pay a commission
for these transactions. Still other places only
accept cash, while major supermarkets in the
city centre such as Albert Heijn only accept local
Dutch bankcards. The moral of the story is clear:
make sure you always have some cash on you
because the Dutchman pouring your beer behind
the bar wants to save 0.50.
Cash or credit?
34
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Balls F-6, Reguliersdwarsstraat 37. Three red felt
pool tables on the second floor of this bar for 2 per
game. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00.
Club-8 C-7, Admiraal de Ruyterweg 56b, tel. (+31)
206 85 17 03, info@club-8.nl, www.club-8.nl. It's
difficult not to get distracted by all the sports on TV as
you try to sink your own ball in this modern pool caf. On
the first floor you'll find a spacious, well-equipped club.
QOpen 14:00 - 03:00, Fri 14:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00
- 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 03:00.
De Keu E-8, Eerste Helmerstraat 5 - 7, tel. (+31)
202 30 05 51, bas@vdvoort.nl, www.dekeu.nl. The-
re are plenty of pool tables here at one of Amsterdam's
oldest billiards halls. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 03:00.
Billiards & Pool
Beer bars
Beer Temple A-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 250, tel.
(+31) 206 27 14 27, www.beertemple.nl. The word
temple isn't mere hyperbole. If you're into American craft
brews you might just be tempted to drop to your knees in
awe and reverence at the sight of the huge blackboard that
lists hundreds of beers by such brewing heavyweights as
Samuel Adams, Saranac, Anchor, Brookl yn and Fl ying Dog.
Roughl y 20 beers are available on draught, including the
house Tempelbier, but most are in bottles. If you've had your
fill of ales and IPAs, you can try some rare and exotic libations
like the 32% Tactical Nuclear Penguin brew. Good pub grub
like wings, burgers, hot dogs and Trappist cheeses can also
be had here. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri 16:00 - 02:00, Sat
14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. ABW
Caf Belgique A-2, Gravenstraat 2, tel. (+31) 206 25
19 74, www.cafe-belgique.nl. A couple of tables, a few
stools at the bar, two benches outside and that's about it for
seating in this tiny brown bar specialising in delicious Belgian
brews too numerous to mention by name. Rest assured, that
if you're a beer connoisseur the only complaint you'll have here
is that the glasses are too small. Perhaps that's a blessing
given that most of the suds sold here weigh in somewhere
just below the 10% alcohol mark. Recommended. QOpen
14:00 - 01:00. EB
Caf de Spuyt F-8, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 86, tel.
(+31) 206 24 89 01, www.cafedespuyt.nl. Although loads
of restaurants and party bars are located at the opposite end
of the street, this less popular section is a slice of heaven for
connoisseurs of alcoholic beverages. De Spuyt is a beer bar,
but its two neighbours specialise in fine whiskies and wine.
This one room bar has such limited space that it stores beer
kegs below the red-cushioned seating along the left hand
wall, but then again that's probabl y not so unusual when
one takes into account that it serves roughl y 100 different
brews. Some snacks like Trappist cheese are also available.
QOpen 16:00 - 24:00. B
Gollem's Proeflokaal E-8, Overtoom 160 - 162, tel.
(+31) 206 12 94 44, www.cafegollem.nl. This is the last
of the iconic Gollem beer bars still in operation, but the bar-
tender did hint that its other former locations in the city centre
would eventually re-open, so keep your fingers crossed. In the
meantime you can take a 10-minute tram ride from the Central
Station (tram Nr.1) to this shrine dedicated to beer. If they don't
have your favourite Belgian brew on draught, chances are that
Gollem has it stocked in one of the beer fridges behind the bar.
Dutch snacks can also be had as well as some dail y specials
written on the blackboard. A calico house cat watches over all
the drinkers from a special sleeping area above the shel ves
of glasses. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 03:00,
Sun 14:00 - 01:00. AB
In de Wildeman A-1, Kolksteeg 3, tel. (+31) 206 38
23 48, www.indewildeman.nl. Just look at the chalkboard
above the door to see what's on draught at one of Amster-
dam's best beer bars, which is located in a former distillery.
Even brew hounds like us are a little overwhelmed in a place
like this, but thankfull y the friendl y staff can suggest one of
the nearl y 20 beers available on draught or perhaps one of
the 200 brews In de Wildeman offers in bottles. If you're still
not convinced, the bartender will pour you a small sample to
taste before you order. The spacious interior consists of the
usual wooden tables, but also a black and white tiled floor
and a long green bar. Traditional snacks from liverwurst and
cheese to frites are also available. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
Old Nickel B-1, Nieuwe Brugsteeg 11, tel. (+31) 206
24 19 12, www.oldquarter.com/oldnickel. The ginger
coloured cat keeps watch over the Old Nickel from his perch
on the windowsill. It's one of the cosiest places we've come
across in Amsterdam and this is probabl y in large part due
to its old-fashioned maroon, blue and gold carpet that looks
remarkabl y good considering what it must have experienced
over the years. Intricatel y carved men's faces peer out at the
bar from the dark wood panelling and from the mantel above
the beautiful Delft tile fireplace, which unfortunatel y onl y of-
fers faux flames. An incredible selection of roughl y 70 beers
is available from 10% Trappist quadruples to strange organic
brews made without hops. If you have one too many strong
beers, you can al ways crash at its hotel upstairs. QOpen
09:00 - 03:00. A
't Arendsnest (The Eagle's Nest) E-4, Herengracht
90, tel. (+31) 204 21 20 57, www.arendsnest.nl. This
unique pub serves an amazing variety of delicious, often
unknown beers brewed exclusi vel y at small Dutch craft
breweries. Wi th around 350 di fferent beers and another
250 seasonal brews, such as Bokbier, this is a paradise
for beer lovers and a trul y Dutch experience. In The Eagle's
Nest you can not onl y taste but also learn about the beer
from i ts owner, Peter van der Arend, who is a certi fied
beerologist. The beer list is too long to make sugges-
tions, so you'll have to get adventurous but bear in mind
that many of the drinks on draught have a high al cohol
content and could make your trip back to your hotel a li ttle
more interesting. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00
- 02:00. PJAG
Brew pubs
Brouwerij 't IJ K-4, Funenkade 7, tel. (+31) 203 20
17 86, www.brouwerijhetij.nl. You reall y have to want
to find this place. Thankfull y, we did, but our thirst for new
brews is, of course, the stuff of legends. Just look for the
giant windmill about a 20-minute walk northwest of the Artis
Zoo along the Hoogte Kadijk to find this microbrewery offer-
ing at least si x unique beers including something akin to a
pilsner as well as the spicy (their words) Columbus, which
has an alcohol content of 9%. The tasting room is functional
and doesn't offer much decoration or seating which is why
most people choose to imbibe at the picnic tables outside.
Beers are remarkabl y cheap, but onl y snacks are available
so you might want to pace yoursel f. Visi t i ts websi te for
information on brewery tours and merchandise. QOpen
15:00 - 20:00. BS
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35
De Bekeerde Suster (De Beiaard) B-2, Klove-
niersburgwal 6 - 8, tel. (+31) 204 23 01 12, www.
beiaardgroep.eu. Although this pub and microbrewery is part
of a chain of restaurants and cafs, its worn wooden interior
is warm and inviting and, with the exception of the tiled area
in the back that houses the copper beer vats, looks like its
been here for many years to say the least. In addition to local
and Belgian beers, The Converted Nun offers her own brews
including a blonde, a triple bock, a white beer and a seasonal
beer, all of which you can taste before ordering. Food is also
available including dail y specials for just under 10. QOpen
15:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.
Brown bars
Caf Chris E-5, Bloemstraat 42, tel. (+31) 206 24 59
42. Onl y a five-minute walk from the Anne Frank House is a
place that claims to be Amsterdam's oldest continuousl y
running caf. It's said that the place came into existence in
1624 as a public bar for the Westerkerk's construction work-
ers who recieved their salaries here and probabl y left most
of it on the premises too. The selection of beer is nothing
special in comparison to the curiousities of the place itself
like the old toilet pull chain on the wall outside the bathroom.
QOpen 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00
- 21:00. JGB
Caf De Blauwe Druif E-4, Haarlemmerstraat 91, tel.
(+31) 206 26 98 97. Amid Asian restaurants and trendy
shops on Haarlemmerstraat you'll also find a tiny brown bar
easil y recognised by the blue bundle of grapes painted on all
of the windows. Supposedly in business since 1733, it serves
some good local and Belgian brews as well as breakfast in
the form of uitsmij ter, sandwiches and other snacks as well
as a soup of the day. The interior is a mix of wood and white
tiles as well as ancient hockey memorabilia. A complete table
and chair set including an ash tray, beer coasters and loose
change hangs precariousl y from the ceiling. QOpen 12:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. X
Caf Eik en Linde I-5, Plantage Middenlaan 22, tel.
(+31) 206 22 57 16, www.eikenlinde.nl. Al though the
original Oak and Lime' caf opened in 1865 in what is now
the Artis Zoo, its current incarnation a couple of blocks away
has been around since 1967. This classic brown bar is more
spacious than similar establishments and you even have to
go outside to smoke! Some excellent brews are available in
bottles and on draught for decent prices and you can order
soups, omelettes, steaks and other traditional Dutch food.
Relax on an intricatel y carved wooden bench, pet the bar's
cat that often sleeps by the window or try to figure out how
locals can play pool on a table without pockets. QOpen
11:00 - 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. Closed
Sun. ABW
Caf Papeneiland E-4, Prinsengracht 2, tel. (+31)
206 24 19 89, www.papeneiland.nl. This unusual brown
bar dating back to 1642 offers great views of canals and
church spires from i ts excellent posi tion at the picturesque
intersection of the Prinsengracht and the Brouwersgracht.
Inside you'll find an antique interior of wood furni ture, old
blue and whi te tiles on the walls and a beauti ful, i f a bi t
dusty, Del ft chandelier. Other outstanding dcor features
include copper bed warmers, an ornatel y decorated cast
iron stove and whi te Christmas lights strung from the high
ceiling. Unlike other bars of i ts genre, Caf Papeneiland
also offers seating above the claustrophobic bar where
patrons are all owed to smoke. Sip a j enever wi th one
of the old-timers or order one of a handful of beers on
draught. Q BX
Caf Slijterij Oosterling H-7, Utrechtsestraat 140,
tel. (+31) 206 23 41 40. This wonderful bar has been
serving thirsty Amsterdammers since 1877. A mi x of young
and elderl y patrons play cards, sip jenever or knock back
strong Belgian and Dutch double bocks here under the
shadow of a huge antique ad for Oosterling liquors at the far
end. Huge barrels of spiri ts decorate the right-hand wall and
hang precariousl y over the heads of the local clientele, but
the bar's most curious feature is the height of i ts hip-high
bar wi th matching stools that look like a Tolkien-inspired
tavern expecting Hobbi ts for happy hour. QOpen 12:00
- 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00.
De Druif I-4, Rapenburgerplein 83, tel. (+31) 206 24 45
30. Al though the building supposedl y dates back to 1585,
the bar opened in 1631 making it one of Amsterdam's old-
est. The views have changed, but in all likelihood the interior
hasn't experienced much tampering over the centuries and
that's the way that the middle-aged to elderl y patrons like
it. Wooden jenever barrels are lined up behind the bar and
the wooden table in the back room is covered with a carpet
in keeping with Holland's oddball interior design traditions.
A few interesting draught beers are available in addition to
local spirits and you can puff away on a cigar or a cigarette
with the rest of the old sal ts here. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00.
Closed Tue. BX
Het Elfde Gebod B-1, Zeedijk 5, tel. (+31) 630 62
63 73/(+31) 206 22 35 77, www.hetelfdegebod.com.
This place certainl y has character, not to mention a bunch
of characters smoking, drinking and talking loudl y to one
another. The Red Light district offers plenty of ancient brown
bars but this one distinguishes itself with a great selection
of beer including Zwak, which is served in a half yard. This
confined space is also bursting with memorabilia, most of it
with a religious connotation, which is appropriate given the
bar's name - the 11th Commandment or thou shalt enjoy life'.
The wood panelling is incredibl y ornate and its carved heads
seem to come to life after an evening of strong Belgian brews.
QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. X
Onder de Ooievaar (Under the Stork) H-7, Utrecht-
sestraat 119, tel. (+31) 206 24 68 36, www.onder-
deooievaar.nl. It's obvious that this popular brown bar is
run by a new generation of beer and spirits purveyors. Its
website is advertised prominentl y on the front window, the
interior is made of wood, but hardl y worn, the clientele look
young and professional and smoking is strictl y forbidden. An
excellent selection of beer is available from Trappist brews
to local concoctions from the IJ microbrewery right here in
Amsterdam. Cocktails, snacks, a TV and even a dartboard
are also available. In short, it's a cosy, modern 21st-century
take on a classic concept. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:30 - 01:00. AB
Statue of Thijssen outside Caf Thijssen M.Zaprauskis
36
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NIGHTLIFE
Clubs
Canvas op de 7e J-9, Wibautstraat 150, tel. (+31) 207 16
38 17, www.canvas7.nl. if you happen to be in Amsterdam-
Oost for the day make sure to visit this building - during the day
or night - and take the lift to the 7th floor for one of the best
panoramic views of the city anywhere. While you're up there
absorb the atmosphere of the club, and, if you're up for it, take
a bite of the ridiculously cheap, yet surprisingly tasty food. The
cafeteria look of the place can throw you off, but the dance nights
at the weekend feature old-school hiphop, soul, and jam sessions
that will quickly make you forget about the surroundings. QOpen
11:00 - 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00
- 01:00. Admission: 8. PAEGBKW
Club 8 C-7, Admiraal de Ruijterweg 56b, tel. (+31) 206 85
17 03, www.club-8.nl. What more could you wish for? Club 8 is
a restaurant, a pool hall and a graffiti-sprayed, accessible dance
club on the upper floor that wouldn't be out of place in the Berlin
underground scene. Although there's usually sports playing on
the screens on the restaurant floor, you can always slip away
upstairs where extravagant electro parties like UNK and 'Fuck
Yeah' take place. When you consider that you can enjoy dinner
while playing pool or ping pong, Club 8 could be your ticket to an
insane night out, especially if you're interested in avoiding the
buzz of the city centre. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00, Fri 14:00 - 04:00,
Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. PUES
Club Escape B-3, Rembrandtplein 11, tel. (+31) 206 22
11 11, www.escape.nl. Don't let the name fool you. When
partying in Amsterdam, there's no real escaping this large
collection of clubs, unsubtl y situated at the Rembrandtplein.
Since 1986, Escape has been successfull y run by twin broth-
ers. The shrill house music in Escape Club won't appeal to
everyone, but you can move on to four other separate areas:
Deluxe, Studio, Caff and Lounge. Feeling fooled anyway
because your caught between high school students and
tourists? For more class, you can al ways escape to Jimmy
Woo's. QOpen Thu 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00,
Sun 23:00 - 04:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. AE
Club Up F-7, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 26-I, tel. (+31) 206
23 69 85, www.clubup.nl. Where would you go partying as
an artist in Amsterdam? Most would say De Kring, but that's
a members-only place. Club Up serves as a spin-off dance club
of De Kring, and the best part is: it's open for everyone. With
paintings on the wall, a tight design and lounge couches next to
the dance floor, the club aims for diverse audiences on different
evenings. However, there isn't really anything that makes this
place stand out from other like-minded dance clubs. It might
also take you a while to locate the place, since the narrow
entrance is set between two tall buildings, which can make
finding Up quite a downer. QOpen Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat
22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PUG
Jimmy Woo's F-7, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 18, tel.
(+31) 206 26 31 50, www.jimmywoo.com. Sitting down in
one of the purple booths At Jimmy Woo's means never having
a dull moment. An Asian-themed household name in fancy
clubbing in Amsterdam, the recently redecorated place is filled
with the classy, rich and young (and sometimes even Dutch
celebrities), dancing to 1990s R&B and hip-hop. Be sure to
do the following three things here: gawk at 20-somethings
who aren't sure about the dress code (women wear cocktail
dresses, men wear sneakers); enjoy the wave of 12,000 light
bulbs on the ceiling in the dancing area; and bring a fat wallet
as the prices at the bar can reach 120 for a bottle of bub-
bl y. QOpen Thu, Sun 23:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. PJAG
Melkweg F-7, Lijnbaansgracht 234a, tel. (+31) 205 31
81 81, www.melkweg.nl. Melkweg isn't so much a club as it
is an institution in the Amsterdam nightlife scene. This former
milk factory is now home to two clubs, one hall called the Oude
Zaal for smaller shows and the Max which can accommodate
1,500 people, as well as a gallery, caf, theatre, a tearoom
and a cinema. It's an obligatory stop for up-and-coming bands
on European tours and also hosts music and film festivals.
Al though its speciality is live music, it also hosts club nights
with DJs in its smaller hall. For upcoming events visit its web-
site or just drop by its box office for information and tickets.
Q Admission: 10 - 30 for concerts. AE
Nachttheater Sugar Factory F-7, Lijnbaansgracht
238, tel. (+31) 206 27 00 08, www.sugarfactory.nl.
We're more at home at a punk rock show than a house
club, but even we could sense that something special was
afoot at the Sugar Factory. A diverse crowd of teens through
40-somethings genuinel y appreciate the professional inter-
national DJs from as far away as the States, who know how
to get a crowd moving here. The style is casual so don't
worry about your trainers and leave your D&G gear at home.
This isn't exactl y the place for the superficial glitterati. Sugar
Factory is all about the music. Bell y up to the bronze-covered
bar, order a drink and join the action. Unlike the crowded faux
clubs on Leidseplein blasting Top 40, this place is the real
deal. QOpen Thu, Sun 21:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. Admission: 5 - 12. AE
Studio 80 B-3, Rembrandtplein 17, tel. (+31) 205 21
83 33, info@studio-80.nl, www.studio-80.nl. Every week,
a long line of hipsters and art academy students are checked
by a door Nazi at the entrance of Studio 80 located at the
busy Rembrandtplein. As one of the places to be for contem-
porary electro music, the club has weekly and monthly events
aimed at the young music fanatic. Visit gay-friendl y parties
like the infamous Multisexi events and immerse yourself in the
atmosphere of Studio 80, which is often pregnant with new
musical creativity. Dance the night away in the big main hall
or lounge on the couches in the back. Apart from the music,
the sight of the long queue of well-dressed clubbers is also
worth a look. QOpen Wed, Thu 23:00 - 03:30, Fri, Sat 23:00
- 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PJUG
Studio/K Timorplein 62, tel. (+31) 20 692 04 22,
info@studio-k.nu, www.studio-k.nu. Disguised as one of
the foremost arthouse cinemas in Amsterdam, this club in
East comes to li fe after the last weekend screenings have
been shown. Entirel y run by students, expect dubstep or
modern jazz to ravish your cal ves during dance nights in one
of three halls. Pay special notice to the quali ty of the sound
played here as i t's crystal clear and seems to completel y
surround you. Tired? Lounge in the way too brightl y-li t areas
downstairs. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00.
PEBX
Holland Casino F-8, Max Euweplein 62, tel. (+31)
205 21 11 11, www.hollandcasino.nl. Located on
the water between Leidseplein and the Rijksmuseum,
this stylish casino has plenty of eating and drinking
options and a great summer terrace. Inside you'll find
well-known games like poker, roulette, black jack and
loads of slot machines in two separate halls and focu-
sed gamblers seated in expensive leather chairs doing
battle with machines with imaginative names like King
Kong Cash and Cash Fever. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00.
POJAUGKX
Casinos & Gambling
NIGHTLIFE
37
NIGHTLIFE
37
Supperclub Amsterdam A-2, Jonge Roelensteeg 21,
tel. (+31) 203 44 64 00, amsterdam@supperclub.com,
www.supperclub.com/html/amsterdam. Part of the in-
ternational chain of Supperclub venues that grace the nightlife
scenes of some of the world's hippest cities, the location
in Amsterdam is just as extravagant and provocative. With
friendl y female waiters clad in leather personall y serving you
as you lie on soft beds, the surprises literall y keep coming
like a fi ve-course meal served in dog food bowls. I t's not
all haute cuisine, but the experience of eating horizontall y
combined with the techno/electro music that the live DJ's
play downstairs certainl y is unique. The onl y problem here
seems to be its earl y closing hours. Just when you're get-
ting into the groove of it all, the bouncers tell you to get out.
Note the ul tra modern toilet signs: instead of the usual men
and women symbols, they're divided into hetero and homo.
QOpen 19:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 19:30 - 03:00, Sun 18:00
- 01:00. PJGK
Trouw J-7, Wibautstraat 127, tel. (+31) 20 4637788,
info@trouwamsterdam.nl, www.trouwamsterdam.nl/en.
If this popular club puts one in mind of a giant factory that's
probabl y because it used to be one. The Dutch dail y Trouw
was printed in this former warehouse in a past life, before it
became a restaurant as well as a club and a space for art
projects. A Mediterranean menu of organic snacks can serve
as the prelude an awesome and creative evening out followed
by hip monthl y techno events such as BAF (an open minded
techno and performance party), Rauw (electro galore), Pe-
chuKuchaNight (smart and quick presentations on innovative
subjects) or simple movie night. Do, however, bear in mind that
TrouwAmsterdam is onl y a temporary spot, so enjoy it while
you can. QOpen , Tue, Wed, Thu 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun
18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. AUEGBKW
Weber E-8, Marnixstraat 397, tel. (+31) 206 22 99
10, www.hotelweber.nl. Weber is billed as a club/bar for
an al ternative crowd loth to listen to pop and techno music
on their night out and we'd have to agree. At the weekend
it's packed, quite stuffy and quite hard to get into and even
harder to get out. New Wave and indie music icons line one
wall, while the other boasts three portraits of American as-
tronauts and what appears to be the head of a water buffalo.
Al ternative indeed. Seating on faux leopard skin seats in the
cellar is often easier to find. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
19:00 - 04:00. A
Cocktails
NJOY! F-7, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 93, tel. (+31) 624
24 97 42, info@cocktailclubnjoy.nl, www.cocktailclub-
njoy.nl. It's trendy, it's stylish and it's pretty much standing
room only at the weekend. The excellent cocktails are poured
by professionals who reall y know what they're doing and the
delicious, albeit girl y, Kentucky Sweet bourbon drink had us
contemplating a life without beer if onl y for a millisecond. So
why aren't we more enthusiastic about one of Amsterdam's
best cocktail joints? It would have to be the staff. The fascist
waiter told us to order a drink and to stop checking out the
place as it's not a museum and the bartender almost threw
a fit when we tried to pay for our 11 drink with a bankcard.
QOpen 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. A
Sake & Co B-2, Zeedijk 134, tel. (+31) 206 25 62 08,
www.sakeandco.nl. This tiny bar, which is narrow even by
Amsterdam standards, has adopted the Japanese love of
minimalism, but that's not why alcohol aficionados come here.
You've definitel y had cosmos and martinis, but have you ever
had a sakerinha or a sakepolitan? This unique watering hole
near the Nieuwmarkt mixes cocktails with Japan's enigmatic
hooch so try an Okinawa sunrise, a Tokyo ice tea or just order
warm sake on its own, which ranges in price from as low as
12 per 300ml to over 40 for the good stuff. Typical mixed
drinks without rice wine can also be had for just under 8,
except on Thursdays when all cocktails cost 6. Hip-hop and
R&B tunes dominate the musical landscape. QOpen 17:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. JW
SkyLounge B-2, Oosterdoksstraat 4, tel. (+31) 205 30
08 00, www.minthotel.com. One of the best views of the
historic heart of Amsterdam can now be found at SkyLounge.
This trendy cocktail bar on the 11th floor of the Mint Hotel is
a purveyor of delicious and expensive drinks, but the terrific
view of the city centre is actuall y priceless. Fortunatel y, the
staff are a little slow at this al titude so you can make your
elaborate cocktail last quite a while at this breathtaking loca-
tion. Q PJAULGBKXW
Twenty Third Bar Ferdinand Bolstraat 333 (Hotel
Okura - 23rd floor), tel. (+31) 206 78 71 11, www.
okura.nl/en/okura-gastronomy/twenty-third-bar.html.
This salubrious cocktail bar on the 23rd floor of the five-star
Hotel Okura not onl y offers fantastic evening views of the city
from high above, but it's also located right next to Ciel Bleu, a
restaurant with two Michelin stars from which you can order
some delicious starters like fresh oysters. Sit on sumptu-
ous leather couches while you sip incredible mixed drinks
or vintage wines and Champagne chosen by its renowned
sommelier. It's also known for its mojitos, but don't tell the
bartenders you heard it from us. They might prefer to make
something more challenging. Al though not necessaril y a
requirement, a jacket and tie might be a good idea if you want
to fit in. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. A
NEW
Vibes D-9, Jan Pieter Heijestraat 137, tel. (+31) 207
89 52 09, vibes137@hotmail.com, www.wix.com/
vibes137/vibes. Vibes is a pleasant exception to the rule
that cocktail bars in Amsterdam have to be pretentious
and expensi ve. Owner Marco has followed his own vision
rather than using a snazzy advertising agency to shape
his brainchild. The resul t is a colourful mi x of modern and
trendy styles and drinks for an average of about 6, which
is cheap, by l ocal standards anyway. The sel ecti on of
almost 30 cocktails offers something for everyone, but we
recommend the Good Vibes. QOpen 08:30 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 08:30 - 03:00. LE
Unless youre at an Irish pub or
sports bar where you can get
a proper pint or half liter mug,
beer glasses in the Netherlands
tend to come in dainty sizes
more sui tabl e for chil dren or
l adi es who l unch. Thi s does
take some getting used to. A
man of 6ft and over holding a
0.25l glass of beer does look
(how to put it diplomatically?)
a little effeminate. Back home
in England, Ireland, America or wherever if your mates
spotted you drinking from such a puny glass, youd pro-
bably feel like your sister just caught you trying on one of
her dresses, but in Amsterdam even longshoremen and
street tuffs swill their brews from these miniature tea set
receptacles. Relax. Youre in Holland now.
A farewell to pints
38
NIGHTLIFE
NIGHTLIFE
Comedy clubs
Boom Chicago F-7, Leidseplein 12, tel. (+31) 204 23
01 01, www.boomchicago.nl. This is the onl y English-
language comedy club in Amsterdam. Every night you can
watch an evening of improv and skits la Saturday Night Live
performed by the city's funniest English-speakers in a theatre
cleverly hidden by its bar/restaurant. The admission is steep,
but Amsterdam's American and British expats don't seem to
mind as Friday and Saturday nights usuall y sell out. You can
also order food and drink in the auditorium or just relax at the
bar downstairs and save yourself 20. Most performances
begin at 20:15, but visit its website for exact show times. Q
Admission: 20. AK
Irish pubs
Hoopman Irish Pub F-7, Leidseplein 4, tel. (+31) 206
38 14 08, www.hoopman.nl. No less than three Irish pubs
lie right next to one another on Leidseplein, but don't worry too
much about which one to choose as they're all connected to
one another and serve pretty much the same breakfasts, Irish
meals, burgers and other pub food not to mention draught
beers like Guinness, Kilkenny and even Old Speckled Hen.
Inside you can expect it to look like most other Irish pubs
you've visited and if you get tired of Hoopman's then move on
to Reynders or the Hole in the Wall next door. A good selection
of single mal ts is also available. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. AB
Molly Malone's B-1, Oudezijds Kolk 9, tel. (+31)
206 24 11 50, www.mollyinamsterdam.com. Al though
this cosy cellar pub has had a Cel ti c makeover wi th an
Irish flag, Guinness memorabilia and the odd shamrock,
there are also pl enty of old Dutch li quor casks lined up
against the wall like the ones you see at l ocal j enever
j oints. Order a Kilkenny and some Irish salmon or spare
ribs, watch football on SkySports and listen to occasional
li ve musi c on weekend ni ghts here. Naturall y, pl enty of
whiskey is also on offer including some good singl e mal ts.
Al though i t has all the makings of yet another tourist trap,
i ts l ocati on on a qui et canal l ends i t a laid back quali ty
that's hard to find at similar establishments. QOpen
15:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:30 - 03:00, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun
11:00 - 01:00. AEB
O' Reilly's A-2, Paleisstraat 103, tel. (+31) 206 24 94
98, www.oreillys.com. It claims to be the best Irish bar in
town, which is a bold statement considering the number of
Hibernian pubs in Amsterdam, but it does have a lot going for
it. O' Reill y's has a cosy atmosphere despite its enormous
size, a good selection of Irish brews, a big breakfast and other
good grub like lamb sausages and loads of flat screens show-
ing sports. If, however, you'd like to escape the boisterous
setting up front, head to the back study' that looks like one
you might see in a country gentleman's home complete with
library and fireplace. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 03:00. ABW
Slainte Irish Pub A-1, Warmoesstraat 87, www.wittet-
ulp.nl. This Irish pub offers loads of red pleather booths,
wood tables and chairs and a decent selection of background
rock music, not to mention sports on a bunch of flat screen
TVs. Guinness and Murphy's are its staple brews as well as
Heineken, which is 2 for 1 during happy hour. Where Slainte
trul y excels is in its big breakfasts Irish, Dutch or otherwise,
especiall y the Hungry Man - piles of bacon, eggs, sausages
and mushrooms on a sesame seed bun. Take a shot of
Jameson to flush out your arteries afterward. QOpen 09:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. AB
Temple Bar B-2, Kloveniersburgwal 2, tel. (+31) 204 27
44 00. This Irish pub offers the usual Guinness and Kilkenny
brews as well as domestic beer on draught and you can, of
course, watch sports on TV while eating a big breakfast.
Americans will also be happy to know that Temple Bar shows
NFL football games every Sunday night during the season and
you can even order a Bud longneck should you feel the need
to carry the nostalgia to an unnecessary extreme. If you're
curious about the interior you can expect exposed brick walls
and pleather upholstered benches and booths. QOpen
10:00 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:30. AB
The Tara A-2, Rokin 85 - 89/Nes 100, tel. (+31) 204 21
26 54, www.thetara.com. You've never seen an Irish pub
like this. Divided into several different areas, one room has a
cosy pub feel with a fireplace and a mounted stag's head, an-
other looks like a church complete with pews and a pulpit, yet
another is designated for smokers and has two pool tables,
while other rooms include long bars and give off a cocktail
lounge vibe. You can stick with traditional Irish and domestic
beers or take advantage of the Tara's extensive wine and
drinks list, not to mention upmarket international cuisine. But
don't fret. A Sunday roast and an Irish breakfast are available
every day. In short, it's an Irish pub to impress your girlfriend.
QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. AB
Jenever bars
De Drie Fleschjes A-2, Gravenstraat 18, tel. (+31) 206
24 84 43. Ancient black bottles of Bols the size of basket-
balls collect dust behind the bar, a lit candle deposits layers
of wax on top of a ceramic beer tap and jenever barrels large
and small line the wall on the opposite side of the room from
floor to ceiling. Men and women of all ages sip classic spirits
from tiny glasses or delicious Belgian brews at this tasting
bar whose sand-covered floor has been trod since the 17th
century. The liqueur casks aren't just for decoration either.
Local companies own them and their employees unlock them
when they come here to unwind. Dutch snacks like cheese,
sausages and bitterballen are also available. QOpen 12:00
- 21:00, Sun 15:00 - 20:00.
In de Olofspoort B-1, Nieuwebrugsteeg 13, tel. (+31)
206 24 39 18, www.olofspoort.com. The historic build-
ing that houses this charming bar was buil t in 1618 and
replaced the 14th-century St. Olaf's Gate, hence its unusual
name. The Olofspoort offers over 200 different spirits includ-
ing traditional and exotic local jenevers, Dutch liqueurs and
bitters as well as homemade cherry and liquorice liqueurs.
Beer drinkers won't be disappointed either as the Belgian
Affligem Double on draught is delicious. Unlike other tasting
rooms of it genre, this one provides plenty of space for its
patrons in two large rooms, but make a note of its limited
opening hours. QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 24:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. A
Proeflokaal De Ooievaar B-1, Sint Olofspoort 1, tel.
(+31) 204 20 80 04, www.proeflokaaldeooievaar.nl.
On the modern nightlife front this tiny one-room bar in the
Red Light district can hardl y compete wi th neighbouring
sports bars and coffeeshops. I t offers no TV, no internet
connection and no ganja. People here actuall y have to talk to
one another to pass the time while sipping one of dozens of
traditional jenevers that line the walls of this ancient bar and
this is precisel y why we like it. The barman wears a necktie
and offers a smile and a chat to anyone who comes in not to
mention a boiled egg from the bar - a local tradition. You can
also have a beer here, but enjoy this endangered slice of the
past before someone opens a kebab joint or a sex shop here.
QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00.
NIGHTLIFE
39
NIGHTLIFE
39
Live music
Alto Jazz Caf F-8, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 115,
tel. (+31) 206 26 32 49, www.jazz-cafe-alto.nl. This
legendary Amsterdam club is about as long as a train car, but
perhaps even narrower. You'll definitel y have to make some
physical contact with other music enthusiasts to get to the
stage where live jazz, funk or salsa acts perform every night
in front of a packed crowd of hipsters, locals and foreigners
in the know. It's dark the way a jazz club should be and has
something of a clandestine speakeasy feel to it. There's no
cover charge, but even simple drinks like a Jack and Coke
can set you back dearl y. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
21:00 - 04:00. AE
Bitterzoet A-1, Spuistraat 2, tel. (+31) 204 21 23 18,
www.bitterzoet.nl. Popular with young urbanites, Bitterzoet
is a club that specialises in live music with an edge from hip-
hop to indie rock. Pay your admission on the ground floor, then
head downstairs to drop off your coat and then go up another
set of stairs past the toilets to reach the main dance hall or
keep going up to the balcony bar area and a separate smok-
ing room. The dark interior and its stained glass windows
of devils as DJs and angels fornicating lends the place an
underground sacrilegious air that no doubt appeals to large
crowds that congregate here for concerts and party nights.
Q Admission: 5 - 10. AE
Bourbon Street F-7, Leidsekruisstraat 6 - 8, tel. (+31)
206 23 34 40, www.bourbonstreet.nl. This place actu-
all y looks a bit like a barn on the inside with the exception
of the musical instruments hanging from the rafters and the
chandeliers hanging above the bar. At the weekend it's hard
to manoeuvre through the sea of bodies assembled here to
listen to blues and rock bands and the bouncers don't seem to
have any qualms about letting as many people in as is physi-
call y possible, but at least you're getting real entertainment
for your 5 cover and not the blaring Top 40 and techno at
neighbouring bars. If you'd like to use the toilet, try coming on a
weeknight. Live music every evening. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00,
Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Admission: 3 - 5. AE
Brix F-7, Wolvenstraat 16, tel. (+31) 206 39 03 51,
www.cafebrix.nl. You can't reall y call Brix a restaurant as
the menu is too limited and the food too ordinary, but the small
snacks will do in a pinch. The delicious house wine is a major
bonus and the staff are friendl y, but most people come here
to hang out in the chill out room in the back. Listen to live jazz
music every Sunday and Monday. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 03:00. TJAGBKX
Caf Casablanca B-1, Zeedijk 26E, tel. (+31) 612 20
05 19, www.cafecasablanca.nl. Have you ever seen a 13-
piece band including a horn section and a drummer perform
in you're living room? Well you don't have to. Come to this
small bar where live music on a grand scale is guaranteed
nearly every evening. Domelsch, Hertog Jan and Hoegaarden
are available on draught, violins, trumpets and accordions
adorn the walls and old master replicas are suspended from
the ceiling. If this all sounds a little too rowdy for your tastes,
you can al ways take in some cabaret or a magic show at its
bar/restaurant/theatre next door. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00,
Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. AE
Casablanca Varit B-1, Zeedijk 24, tel. (+31) 206 25
56 85. Casablanca Varit claims to be the onl y circus caf
in Europe, which is probabl y true, but begs the question: are
there circus cafs in Africa, Asia, Australia and the Americas?
We'll let you do the research on that one. Have a drink or a
meal at its caf downstairs or stick around in the evening for
the main event of live theatre, music and, yes, circus perform-
ers in the upstairs auditorium. For 29 you can also take in
a special theatre-menu meal and a performance. QOpen
16:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Sun. AE
The Cave F-7, Prinsengracht 472, tel. (+31) 206 26
89 39, www.thecave.nl. The men at The Cave, a tiny black
rock bar decorated with gargoyles and little else, come in
two varieties: guys dressed in black with long hair and guys
dressed in black wi th no hair. Thankfull y, the women, or
should we say girls, tend to be surprisingl y cute Goth chicks
who haven't overdone the piercings or the horrid hairstyles.
Al though space is limited, bands play here every Friday night
and the sound quality is actuall y quite good considering the
limitations of the bar. Plenty of special beers and whiskies are
also available. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00.
Admission: Fridays 5. X
The Waterhole E-8, Korteleidsedwarsstraat 49, tel.
(+31) 206 20 89 04, www.waterhole.nl. This is the kind of
place where you would expect Jim Morrison (or someone like
him) to be a regular. A true roadhouse. It's dark, loud and little
bit smoky and every square meter of wall space is covered
either in booze bottles, rock posters, graffiti or musical instru-
ments. Listen to live music from folk and blues to rock nearl y
every night, shoot pool on three tables or order a Bavaria
draught, which is nothing special, but plenty of good beers
are available in bottles. If you need another excuse to come,
it also offers a good happy hour until 21:00 on weeknights.
QOpen 14:00 - 03:00. EBX
Michael Caine perhaps said it
best in the third installment of
the Austin Powers film trilogy
when he said: There are two
kinds of people I cant stand
in this world. People who are
intolerant of other peoples
cultures, and the Dutch. To be
honest most of the derogatory
expressions we hear from time
to time like Dutch courage,
Dutch treat, Dutch uncle, Dutch comfort, etc. have
their origins in the distant past when Britain and
the Netherlands fought one another for colonies
and spice routes. Dutch courage either implies
that the Dutch need to get drunk to show some
backbone or it could also be a reference to the
Dutch national drink, j enever, which became
popular across the sea as gin. Going Dutch is
even better known and implies that the Dutch are
a cheap lot. Obviously, we refuse to believe in such
antiquated stereotypes and hardly think that the
Dutch are a stingy lot of deep-fried food gulping,
jenever swilling, French fry munching, liquorice
chewing, cheese swallowing tightwads.
Dutch courage
Plenty more boozers at
40
NIGHTLIFE
NIGHTLIFE
Pubs
Batavia 1920 A-1, Prins Hendrikkade 85, tel. (+31)
206 23 40 86, www.batavia1920.nl. Located just op-
posite the Central Station in a prime example of Amsterdam
School architecture, Batavia 1920 has a little something for
everyone. Often times you'll hear blues music in the back-
ground, yet on match days you can watch football on TV. It
serves plenty of international fare like steaks, big breakfasts
and BLTs, but also traditional Dutch snacks like bitterballen
with mustard. You'll have no problem getting a good cocktail
either, but its true speciality is Belgian and Dutch beer on
draught and some surprises in bottles like Delirium Tremens
and Raging Bitch IPA. Popular with expats, Batavia 1920 also
offers a large smoking cellar and special drinks prices during
English Premiership matches. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 03:00. A
Caf de Oranjerie D-4, Binnen Oranjestraat 15hs, tel.
(+31) 206 23 46 11, www.cafeoranjerie.nl. Some would
say that it looks like the place is falling apart, but we think
that it has lots of character. Sure, the old floor is cracked in
several places and giant bits of brown plaster hang precari-
ousl y from the ceiling, but Oranjerie has some other unique
features like an undulating wall that's covered with a layer of
events posters so thick you're almost afraid to sit next to it
for fear it might crash down on you. Lots of delicious brews
are available on draught and in bottles and a surprisingly good
food menu is on offer after 18:00 that includes such tasty
dishes as prawns in Pernod and Ricard sauce. QOpen 16:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. B
Caf de Tuin D-5, Tweede Tuindwarsstraat 13, tel.
(+31) 206 24 45 59. This place looks like some youngsters
inherited the famil y bar and gave it a funky, contemporary
upgrade. Floral print wallpaper covers the far wall and i f
you're wondering why it's so bright back there, it's natural
illumination courtesy of a large skylight that's decorated with
an art nouveau-style painting of a mermaid. Staff place drinks
on raised platforms on the bar so as not to knock over the
huge stacks of glasses piled up next the to the beer taps. A
young and boisterous crowd listens to rock music here at the
weekend but it's usuall y not too difficul t to get a table inside
or a chair outside. IJ brewery beers are available as well as
some good Belgian options. Q AB
Caf De Vriendschap B-2, Nieuwmarkt 1, tel. (+31)
206 24 81 12. The casual atmosphere of this old pub on
the Nieuwmarkt is even greater when the sun comes out in
the spring. While other neighbouring bars set up tables next
door, Caf Friendship just leaves dozens of chairs outside
facing the sun and a few small stools to use as tables for
drinks. Al though a faded red Heineken sign hangs from its
faade, it also serves plenty of other brews on draught or in
bottles. Buy your drinks at the bar and then move out onto
the terrace. You can also order pi tchers of good beer for
about 15. QOpen 15:00 - 01:00, Fri 15:00 - 03:00, Sat
12:00 - 03:00. B
Caf de Zeevaart B-2, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 28,
tel. (+31) 206 24 74 32. Located at the far end of the
Red Light district's main drag, this local pub has at least
100 football club scarves hanging from i ts high ceiling like
odd foliage from a rainbow-coloured rainforest. If that wasn't
enough decoration for you, the chandeliers, made of ship's
wheels, are draped wi th foreign currency from around the
globe. That said, the bar is qui te ordinary and the choice of
beer and spiri ts is nothing to wri te home about. I ts music
selection also reflects the tastes of i ts middle-aged local
patrons. Q
Caf Thijssen E-4, Brouwersgracht 107, tel. (+31)
206 23 89 94, www.cafethijssen.nl. Named after the
bloke whose statue graces the square outside, this friendl y
neighbourhood pub is frequented by people of all ages and
stripes and is known for its impressive beer selection and
huge, yet casual terrace that instantl y quadruples the bar's
capacity each summer. The interior is pure bruin caf with
a long bar that is onl y knee-high on one side. No matter, tiny
stools were added to compensate for the lack of al titude. A
huge cupboard is stocked with board games from checkers
and chess to Risk and that old school classic - Boggle. Some
snacks, sandwiches and breakfasts can also be had and wi-fi
is available, but bear in mind that Thijssen onl y accepts cash.
QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00, Sat 07:30 - 03:00,
Sun 09:00 - 01:00. BW
CREA Caf B-3, Turfdraagsterpad 17, tel. (+31) 205
25 14 23, info@creacafe.nl, www.creacafe.nl. Known
as the caf of the Cul tural Centre for Students in Amsterdam
(CREA), you can find throngs of artistic students here drinking
mint tea with honey and the occasional member of the elder
generation sipping dark beers. Expect a gorgeous view of the
canals, sofas to chill and friendl y service, but when ordering
from the decent lunch menu make sure to ask for the small
sandwich instead of the large one as they're pretty much the
same size. Check out the schedule on its website for wicked
student performances. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00
- 19:00. (11 - 18). PTJAGW
Sports bars
Players A-2, Warmoesstraat 170, tel. (+31) 204 20 05
63, www.amsterdam-dam.com. You'll find this cellar sports
bar full of foreign men watching football on SkySports onl y
a stone's throw from Dam Square. Occasionall y you'll even
see a bored spouse or girlfriend faking enthusiasm for the
match of day. The louder-than-life commentary and the giant
photos of the terraces almost make you believe that you're in
the stadium. In any event, it's a great place to watch sports,
it's open very late and it pours Guinness and Kilkenny brews,
not to mention pitchers of local Bavaria. Pool tables are also
available. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00, Fri 16:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00
- 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. A
Satellite Sports Caf F-8, Leidseplein 11, tel. (+31)
204 27 25 29, www.satellitesportscafe.nl. If you're hun-
gry for sports and, well, lots of food, then a visit to this place
with the boring, yet aptl y chosen name of Satellite Sports
Caf might just be in order. The place is decorated with flat
screen TVs and not much else, which means it's clearly meant
for gents with a hankering for football and an appetite worthy
of a Viking feast or Roman banquet. Order enormous English
breakfasts, pancakes, pizzas, burgers and steaks or test
your stomach's mettle with its speciality: all-you-can-eat ribs
for onl y 11.90Ls. Shot specials and pitchers of Heineken are
available on two floors on busy Leidseplein. QOpen 08:00
- 03:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. AB
Teasers A-1, Damrak 35 - 36, tel. (+31) 204 21 84 11.
Its refined motto babes and beer' curiously neglects to men-
tion sports. The beer part is obvious. You're on the Damrak
so a pint of Heineken will set you back 6.50 and as far as
the babes go we'll give you a hint. That doesn't refer to the
clientele, but rather the beautiful waitresses in cheerleader
outfits that take turns dancing on the bar. Teasers also has
about a dozen TVs showing football most of the day and a
wide range of pub food from English fry ups to steaks with
prices befi tting the bar's location. A small smoking room
is also available, but you have to pay 0.50 for piss-poor
toilets. Q ABX
NIGHTLIFE
41
NIGHTLIFE
41
Underground
OCCII Amstelveenseweg 134, tel. (+31) 206 71 77 78,
info@occii.org, www.occii.org. Think you know what the
underground music scene is like in Amsterdam? Wait till you've
been to the OCCII (Independent Cul tural Centre in It). Famed
for its al ternative programming, the dark graffiti-covered club
is hidden behind church doors in a squatted building from the
19th century. Experience the Berlin-like feel at the bi-monthl y
Spellbound queer party or the experimental MKMI. Warning:
i t's not for pop princes and princesses. QOpen 20:30
- 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. P
OT301 D-10, Overtoom 301, tel. (+31) 207 79 49 13,
ehbk@ot301.nl, www.ot301.nl. By day, OT301 is a place
for dance, krav maga, cooking and other workshops, docu-
mentary screenings and other cultural events, but by night it's
a live music venue and club. Huddled between the shops of
Overtoom, you might want to check out this formerly squatted
space if you're looking for less mainstream entertainment
away from Rembrandtplein. At the weekend you can enjoy
dubstep and drum n' bass club nights and the De Peper vegan
restaurant in the same building is a pleasant al ternative to
Amsterdam steakhouses and pancake joints! Q Opening
hours vary depending on the event.
. PEKW
Whisky bars
Whiskycaf L&B F-8, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 82
- 84, tel. (+31) 624 55 41 62, www.whiskyproeverijen.
nl. Look up at the nearl y unending choices of whisky on offer
on the blackboard, take a deep breath and find your favourite
scotch. The aptl y named Whiskycaf has over 1000 different
single mal ts, bourbons and sour mashes from around the
world including famous highland spirits as well as drinks from
obscure Japanese distilleries. Squeeze in around the central
bar and ponder the possibilities, but don't worry. You won't get
dirty looks from the staff if you order one of its excellent beers
or wines. You can also attend one of its frequent tastings to
learn more about quality whisky. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00, Fri,
Sat 20:00 - 04:00. A
Wine bars
Mulliner's Wijnlokaal F-7, Lijnbaansgracht 266/267,
tel. (+31) 206 27 97 82, www.mulliners-wijnlokaal.nl. The
first thing we noticed upon entering this wine bar, apart from the
refined atmosphere, the polished wooden bar and the green
leather benches that put one in mind of an English gentleman's
club, was the smell of garlic. Escargot was being prepared along
with a myriad of other delicious tapas, but Mulliner's main focus
is of course wine in all its lovely incarnations. Order a bottle
or a glass from the month's specials on the blackboard and
relax in this candlelit room to the soothing sounds of classical
music. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. A
Vyne E-7, Prinsengracht 411, tel. (+31) 203 44 64 08,
info@vyne.nl, www.vyne.nl. Al though wine is still consid-
ered a poor relative of beer in Dutch bars, this attitude has
been slowly changing over the past few years. Here, however,
at the stylish and trendy Vyne, that most ancient of alcoholic
beverages takes centre stage and the warm interior is reason
enough for a visit. One wall consists entirel y of a lounge sofa,
while the other side of this long narrow room is a large deposi-
tory for thousands of bottles of wine. Running the length of
the wine bar in the middle of the room is a table with space
enough for you and 99 of your friends. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 17:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00. JA
Adul t entertainment
Casa Rosso B-2, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 106 - 108,
tel. (+31) 206 27 89 54, www.casarosso.nl. This iconic
live sex theatre provides continuous action for as long as you
like. The programme varies over the course of the evening
and ranges in theme from simple strip numbers and couples
fornicating on a rotating bed to lesbian lovers and vibrator
acts. Lots of surprises are also included in the acts that
receive lots of laughs from the crowd, but we won't spoil the
fun and divulge any details here. The theatre can seat up to
180 people but you might prefer the balcony seating if you
don't want to volunteer for one of the participatory shows.
There are no happy endings or facials so you can sit as close
to the stage as you like. If you purchase the more expensive
50 ticket you get coupons for four complimentary drinks,
which isn't a bad deal when one considers that cocktails are
included in the price and not just draught beer. You should
also take into account that as much as you'd like to humiliate
your friend on stage, the performers don't want their grannies
watching their act on YouTube so taking photos and filming
are prohibited. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00.
Admission: 35; 50 including four drinks. A
The Bananen Bar & Club B-1, Oudezijds Achterbur-
gwal 37, tel. (+31) 206 27 89 54, www.bananenbar.nl.
What heterosexual member of the male gender hasn't heard
of the famous Banana Bar in Amsterdam where the girls are
lusty and the boys are often drunk? Downstairs for 50 you
can drink all you can swill for one hour on the lounge bar with a
variety of talented women who can do all kinds of interesting
things with ping pong balls, markers and of course bananas.
When we dropped by one of the lucky lads was squealing with
delight as a woman in a corset whipped his backside with
his own bel t. Upstairs is the club, which has a, shall we say,
more dignified atmosphere where guests pay 10 admission
to sit by the pole where beautiful women show their moves
in various states of undress. Ordering drinks is mandatory
and if you buy a bottle of champagne you can have a private
party with one of the girls behind a curtain. You can also pay
for individual lap dances, which are a lot steamier than the
ones we remember in our youth. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 20:00 - 03:00. Admission: bar 45, club 10.
Dont be one of those tourists
fresh of f the trai n that asks
the nearest l ocal where the
Red Li ght Distri ct is l ocated.
Its not hard to find so just walk
straight down the Damrak, as
most people do, and make a
left at the Grasshopper. Then
just keep walking pretty much
strai ght ahead unti l you hi t
Oudezijds Voorburgwal and, one
canal farther, Oudezijds Achter-
burgwal, which is the main strip
with lots of ladies and most of the sex theatres. The area
surrounding the Oude Kerk (Old Church) is also chock
full of working girls and you should definitely walk down
the tiny alleys of Trompettersteeg, Bethlemsteeg and
Goldbergersteeg nearby. Although not as popular with
tourists, theres also a street full of red lights between
the Spuistraat and the Singel on Oude Nieuwstraat. If
youre a little too shy to talk the ladies while 10 Japanese
businessmen and a hens night look on, this might be a
good option for you.
Red Light streets
42
GAY AMSTERDAM
Pink Point & Homo Monument E-5, Wester-
markt to 9, tel. (+31) 20 428 10 70, www.pinkpoint.
org. Pink Point provides general information about gay
and lesbian Amsterdam. Its staffed by volunteers who
can provide all kinds of information about gay organisa-
tions and about gay life in general in the Dutch capital
and they also sell some of the coolest gay souvenirs in
the country. The nearby Monument to Homosexuals or
Homomonument was designed in 1987 by artist Karin
Daan to inspire and support lesbians and gays in their
struggle against discrimination. It is also a memorial to
gay men and women who were oppressed and perse-
cuted because of their lifestyles and beliefs. The pink
triangle was the symbol homosexuals were forced to
wear by the Nazis. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. B
Gay information
Its hard to imagine a more gay and lesbian friendly travel
destination than Amsterdam. In 2001, the Netherlands
became the first country in the world to officially recognise
same-sex marriages. Other countries like Belgium, South
Africa, Argentina and most Scandinavian countries followed
shortly after. Amsterdam has a long and fierce reputation of
tolerance and respect for the rights of minorities, including
those of gays and lesbians and homosexual couples can
openly show their feelings for one another in public without
fear in the Dutch capital.
With four distinctive gay districts in the city centre,
rainbow flags on nearly every other street and the annual
Gay Pride celebration, Amsterdam is the place to be for gays
worldwide. The street parties, club events and exhibitions of
Amsterdam Pride draw more than 350,000 participants and
visitors each year. On the first Saturday in August, thousands
of people line the Prinsengracht and Amstel River to watch
the worlds only pride parade on water. The cavalcade of
colourful canal boats packed with hundreds of extravagantly
costumed homosexuals is like nothing most people have ever
seen. Even gay politicians, policemen and other people with
public professions sail along, although the cops were warned
not to strip this year.
Another maj or party for gays and straights alike is
celebrated on April 30. Queens Day, the official birthday
of Dutch Queen Beatrix has been adopted by local queens
who have added Queens Night to the festivities the evening
before the main event with street parties. In addition to these
two major events, the Amsterdam gay scene hosts all kinds
of parties nearly every day of the week!
Unfortunately, not everything is as bright as it seems
at fi rst gl ance. After the sui ci de of controversi al gay
entrepreneur, Sjoerd Kooistra, in June 2010 who owned half
of Amsterdams gay venues, the local scene was plunged
into a noticeable depression. Lenders also shut down many
of the citys old time favourites as a consequence of the
financial crisis. Another negative development resulted when
a few instances of violence towards gays occurred in 2010.
Although Amsterdam is still as safe as many other big cities
in Europe, these incidents have proven that Amsterdam isnt
immune to gay bashers.
On the bright side, in 2011 the city is still full of energy
and gorgeous boys and girls and the loss of some classic
venues has made room for new gay entrepreneurs to make
their mark. All in all, Amsterdam still has an impressive range
of gay hotels, shops, restaurants, bars, saunas, clubs, travel
agencies and other facilities.
Several areas form what can be dubbed Amsterdams
Gay Village. All areas are within easy walking distance from
one another. The prime area is the Reguliersdwarsstraat (Gay
Main Street) and prime hunting ground for upmarket clubs
and trendy restaurants. Other areas include the Kerkstraat
(near Leidsestraat) with two gay hotels (The Golden Bear and
Amistad) as well as a kinky cruise club, Warmoesstraat in
the Red Light district (with cruise bars, a leather scene and a
cinema) and the Zeedijk (home to some cosy local cafs).
Last but not least there is a vast selection of party places
around the Amstel, Halvemaansteeg and Rembrandtplein.
Caf Rouge G-6, Amstel 60, tel. (+31) 204 20 98 81,
www.caferouge.nl. Red like a cheap brothel, this unpreten-
tious late night spot attracts a diverse crowd willing to party
and score. A live DJ tries to please the crowd with a mixture
of gay classics, Eurovision and modern pop. The walls filled
wi th photos of Dutch and international royal ty add to the
campy atmosphere where anything can happen. Anything
can also mean nothing, but on weekends and special days
like Queens Day its a safe option for fun. QOpen 16:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed. PJG
Club Church F-8, Kerkstraat 52, info@clubchurch.nl,
www.clubchurch.nl. This is Amsterdams ul timate cruis-
ing club with two floors of play and dance areas that offer
changing theme parties and DJs every night. Free condoms
throughout the venue and lots of more serious kinky toys are
available for use including slings, private cabins and even a
Saint Andrews cross, which has nothing to do with heraldry
and everything to do with bondage. Yep, you can get it as
wild or rough as youd like it, but its probabl y not the best
place to have your first gay experience and defini tel y not
an appropriate venue to have an after-work drink with your
straight business colleagues. QOpen 20:00 - 24:00, Thu
22:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon. PJGX
De Spijker F-7, Kerkstraat 4, tel. (+31) 20 620 59
19. Located in a dark basement, the Spijker might not be
as inviting as other bars in town, but those who make the
effort are in for a surprise. At the back side of the bar, below
two TV screens showing uninspired gay porn, is a pool table.
This is the real gem, because its an easy way of getting in
contact with other patrons including, among others, some
weirdos, some locals and loads of expats! Just write your
name on the board and wait your turn. A small darkroom is
available upstairs. And did we mention the gorgeous South-
African bartender? QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00
- 03:00. PJ6X
Montmartre B-3, Halvemaansteeg 17, tel. (+31) 20
620 76 22, info@cafemontmartre.nl, www.cafemont-
martre.nl. Al ways packed at the weekend, Montmartre can
be a bit claustrophobic, but those who enjoy lots of bodil y
contact and flirting with the hot young boys in their teens
and twenties that come here are in for a real treat. Cheesy
pop and Eurovision make Montmartre a heaven for all Dutch
queens, so bring your attitude, get drunk, croon with Sandra
Kim and Kylie Minogue and dance the night away. You can also
use its happy hour from 18:00 - 20:00 to get in the mood.
QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00
- 01:00. PJGX
Prik A-2, Spuistraat 109, tel. (+31) 203 20 00 02www.
prikamsterdam.nl. Prik, a relaxed and cosy caf near Dam
Square, is the ideal place to meet your friends, or even your
grandmother, and have a drink to start the night off. Prosecco
on tap, sexy cocktails, tasty finger food a live DJ and a good
vibe will probabl y make you linger around longer than you
might have planned. It was voted several times as the best
gay bar in town and we can certainl y see why. Prik rocks!
QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. PJGB
GAY AMSTERDAM
A wide range of In Your Pocket guides are now
available in iTunes as iPhone apps. Develo-
ped in association with Meta4Labs, the apps
combine all the best features of In Your Pocket
guides - up-to-date, accurate, well-written and
independent information - with the functionality
of the iPhone.
You can search all venues in a city by location,
and find the cafes, bars and restaurants closest
to you, as well as browse the apps entire content
offline. We even supply high-resolution static
street and transport maps (exactly the same
as those in our guides) so you can enjoy In Your
Pocket on your iPhone without racking up huge
roaming charges.
Other features include fully integrated Google
Maps, wi thin-app dialling and web browsing,
embedded In Your Pocket video guides, currency
exchange calculator and local weather informati-
on. All In Your Pocket apps have native hi-res
graphics for iPhone 4.
And like In Your Pocket guides, our apps are
updated regul arl y by l ocal researchers and
native English speaking writers. More than ten
In Your Pocket cities are currently available
as iPhone apps, and more are being released
all the time. Visit the App Store on your iPhone
or PC/Mac and look for the Amsterdam In Your
Pocket iPhone app due to be released this
autumn. Dont have an iPhone? The Android app
is coming soon. Watch this space!
The In Your Pocket iPhone App
43
GAY AMSTERDAM
Reality B-3, Reguliers-dwarsstraat 129, tel. (+31) 206
39 30 12, www.barreality.freehomepage.com. Reality is
a tropical-style ethnic bar. Customers tend to hail from exotic
locales such as Suriname, the Carribbean and other hot
destinations, so its a bit al ternative compared to the other
places on Gay Main Street. Great music like salsa, meringue
and cal ypso is also available for those who are fed up with
the regular gay bubblegum. This might also be the place to
see if the stereotypes about dark-skinned men and their
toys are just a myth. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00
- 04:00. PJG
Taboo A-3, Reguliersdwarsstraat 45, tel. (+31) 207
75 39 63, www.taboobar.nl. This bar boasts two big
screens showing cheesy music videos, hot bartenders who
are actually friendly and attentive and a comfy smoking room
on the first floor which seems to be a winning combination
especiall y on a street that needed a breath of fresh air. Two
happy hours a day (from 18:00 - 19:00 and 24:00 - 01:00)
has also helped to build up a steady and happy clientile.
Sundays offer a double happy hour from 18:00 until 20.00!
QOpen 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00
- 03:00. PJGBX
The Queens Head B-1, Zeedijk 20, tel. (+31) 204 20
24 75, info@queenshead.nl, www.queenshead.nl. At the
head of the Zeedijk, a trendy street bordering the Red Light
district, the Queens Head is an old time gay favourite with
a loyal clientele. Friendl y bar staff, chandeliers, drag nights
and hilarious bingo nights on Thursdays are all major draws.
Downstairs a cosy backroom wi th a romantic canal view
is also available and li ve DJs spin music at the weekend.
In short, its a lovel y place to actuall y meet other people.
QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00
- 01:00. PJGBX
Thermos Sauna E-7, Raamstraat 33, tel. (+31) 206
23 91 58, office@thermos.nl, www.thermos.nl. One of
the biggest gay saunas in Europe, Thermos is a legendary
gay Amsterdam institution. Tourists, chubbies, students and
the occasional geriatric all mix in the labyrinth upstairs and
the wet compartments on ground floor that include a swim-
ming pool, dry sauna, wet sauna and whirlpool. The dcor
is still very much stuck in the 1970s and about as cosy as
the interior of a nuclear power plant, but most men seem to
focus on other things, which explains the cruisy atmosphere,
especially at the weekend. An attached hair salon and beauty
parlour is also available for those in need and free condoms
can be found at the bar. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Admission:
under 21 years 10, 22 - 25 years 14, and 26 and over 19.
PJFGBKXC
Vivelavie B-3, Amstelstraat
7, tel. (+31) 206 24 01 14,
www.vivelavie.net. An insti-
tuti on in the Amsterdam gay-
scene, this lesbian bar has been
around for more than 30 years
and is still ali ve and kicking! I t
has an unpretentious and cosy
atmosphere wi th old Holl ywood
posters on the wall. Ladies meet
their friends, talk, read, eat, sip
their cocktails and dance in the
late hours in this Art Deco-style
space. The menu offers tapas,
tosties and other finger food and
the music varies from lounge and gay classics to upbeat and
everything in between. Even gay men like i t here! QOpen
12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. PJGBX
44
HIGH TIMES
HIGH TIMES
You should also bear in mind that there are usually
two types of weed sold; haze, which has high THC
content and creates a strong stoned or high fee-
ling; and non-haze which has a somewhat milder
effect. The price difference may sometimes be
quite substantial between these two types, as
haze weed plants (usually strong sativas - for
those in the know) are bigger and harder to grow
properly than non-haze (usually strong indicas)
plants. If youre a non-regular smoker, or even a
regular hashish smoker, start with non-haze, and
then perhaps try a haze joint to see how you feel.
For regular (weed) smokers (close to daily), haze
weed will show you how truly stoned you can get,
but beware as some types may stick you to your
chair, and you may drool (well, maybe not the
second part).
Embracing the haze
Whether you smoke the herb or not, coffeeshops in Amster-
dam are a tourist attraction by themselves. Choose the right
one and it'll be an experience you'll never forget. Choose the
wrong one and you you'll probably forget that you were in
Amsterdam altogether.
The experience may not be around for long should the
Dutch government have its way - yes, even in the peace-lov-
ing Netherlands, an openly xenophobic and extremely con-
servative politician has been voted into government. This
revival of right-wing popularity has resulting in conservative
lawmaking, which affects even the humble coffeeshop via
intrusive laws and regulations (ie. a 'Weed Pass' for Dutch
citizens, extra coffeeshop licences and purchase restric-
tions).
Because Amsterdam is a tourist Mecca you'll see plenty
of foreigh clientele at most places. For readers who prefer
coffeeshops with more local patronage, this will be noted in
the coffeeshop description as much as possible.
There are many different types of coffeeshops, for differ-
ent kinds of people. Some look more like nightclubs, others
like Tibetan monasteries (once you're stoned) and others like
super-modern cafs. And in the summer, many have outside
seating, sometimes near the canal.
Coffeeshops in Amsterdam have a particularly long his-
tory (Mellow Yellow was the first one in 1973), even during
times of cannabis prohibition. The idea has been imitated
across much of Europe, as well as the Americas, proof
enough that the system works (for the 'evil' criminal gangs
anyway).
Given the city's status as a major shipping hub and its
maze of canals, it's not hard to imagine how drug traffick-
ing in this city was an attractive option. Coffeeshops could
easily be supplied straight from shipping containers via the
many canals on small boats, and even emptied in the same
manner should the authorities decide to pay a visit, before
the premises had even been entered.
Today, they are mostly supplied by car, a much less
romantic option. Naturally, one could dream up other ways,
especially when sitting in the den of creativity that can be a
coffeeshop...
After extensive wandering around (and getting lost in)
Amsterdam, a list of dozens of coffeeshops (of the 280
available) not to be missed during your stay is provided here.
They are selected from across the city, so that you're never
at any point far away from one of these exceptional Dutch
institutions.
Tetrahydrocannabinol or THC
is the psychoactive substance
in cannabis that gets you high.
I ts al so known to i ncrease
appetite and relieve nausea,
which is why its used by cancer
patients.
Whats THC?
Coffeeshops
Abraxas A-2, Jonge Roelensteeg 12 - 14, www.abraxas.
tv. Down a side-street off one of the main boulevards in Am-
sterdam Centrum, you'll find this surprisingly cosy medium-size
coffeeshop spread over several narrow floors. With extensive
mosaics and elaborate dcor, it includes large comfortable
banquettes and pleasantly mellow lighting aided by candles
on every table. Well organised and efficient staff make this an
attractive option for a relaxed (but brief) break while touring
the city's many delights. Longer stays at this coffeeshop will
permit you a view of the souvenir shop as well as a comfortable
smoking session. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. J
Amnesia E-5, Herengracht 133, tel. (+31) 204 27 78
74. The first thing to be said about this coffeeshop is that it's
part of a chain which has received many Cannabis Cup Awards
and therefore should be on the map for any connoisseur.
Even if you're just eager to sit down in pleasant surroundings,
this is a good option. With a view of the canal, down a quiet
side street, this establishment boasts a pleasant dcor of
purple swirls and gold and black as well as equall y pleasant
and efficient staff. A choice of games and vaporizers will
ensure your time at this coffeeshop is well spen. QOpen
10:00 - 01:00.
Barney's D-3, Haarlemmerstraat, tel. (+31) 204 27
94 69, www.barneys.biz. This coffeeshop review is more
about the three establishments which are part of Barney's
coffeeshop empire and all located on Haarlemmerstraat. One
venue is a coffeeshop, the other is a bar/restaurant and the
final one is a souvenir shop/bar and smoke-room, meaning
that in between these three places, you can smoke drink and
eat to your heart's content in an attractive environment with
a pleasant dcor. Popular particularly with tourists, it provides
its customers with arguably one of the best choices in life; get
high and eat, get high and drink, or get high and have a coffee.
And to get high with a bong or a vaporizer? So many wonderful
choices to be made here, but once your desires have been
met, it is al ways good to remember that the souvenir shop
will provide you with numerous ways to annoy someone back
home. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. P
Bluebird B-2, Sint Antoniesbreestraat 71, tel. (+31)
206 22 52 32, www.coffeeshopbluebird.nl. Bluebird
might seem at first like a small coffeeshop, but the upstairs
is substantiall y larger than the ground floor and the window-
walls over the street are very effective in giving the place a
light and airy feel, which also provides great people watching
opportunities. These windows also provide the best lighting
to the extensivel y intricate artwork covering the inside walls
from top to bottom, forcing the eye (stoned or not) to wander
endlessl y. Games are also on offer like a pinball machine and
the crowd is of a local variety with a mix of some tourists as
well. The staff is friendl y and outdoor roadside seating is
available in good weather. The availability of vaporizers make
this an ideal location for a trippy experience (along, of course,
with the dcor). QOpen 09:30 - 01:00. GBX
HIGH TIMES
45
HIGH TIMES
Bulldog No. 90 B-2, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 90, tel.
(+31) 206 25 98 64, www.thebulldog.com. Arguabl y
the first ever coffeeshop in Amsterdam, this establishment
combines cannabis history and getting high with an excel-
lent central location. Wi th seating overlooking the canal
on the inside and seating on the edge of the canal outside,
this coffeeshop is an ideal place any time of year. The dcor
of memorabilia like old photos, newspaper articles and the
orange (you'll understand once you get here) tells the story
of this venerated establishment, which gives off a pub-like
atmosphere. Computers with internet access are available
(for a fee) for any last-minute travel arrangements or any web
addicts and the staff are friendl y and helpful. Finall y, the herb
purchasing area is seperate from the drinks area. A small,
but important detail when you want to get your smoke on in
a hurry. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. JB
Bulldog Palace F-7, Leidseplein 17, tel. (+31) 206
27 19 08. Fancy going down the police station for a spliff?
Well in Amsterdam, you can, al though the police station has
been transformed into a mul ti-storey smoking, drinking and
dancing venue. It's a large, spacious place with a pleasant
conservatory style smoking area at the front and features
two separate downstairs areas: one for weed and one for
souvenirs. Upstairs is what can onl y be described as a dark
nightclub with plenty of coloured lights jumping around, but
that could have just been the effects of the haze. Alcohol
including cocktails is available making i t an ideal spot for
hanging out and shooting some pool in the evening until the
proper clubbing kicks off. Internet stations are also available
for downloading that evening's soundtrack. QOpen 08:00
- 01:00. PEGBXW
Coffeeshop 36 B-1, Warmoestraat 36, tel. (+31)
206 24 24 93. I ts canal view at the back sold us on this
place and i t's close to the station which is ideal i f you're
in Amsterdam onl y briefl y. This coffeeshop is housed on
several di fferent levels, which isn't exactl y an advantage
i f you're travelling wi th wheel-bound sui tcases. (We like
to get down to business as soon as we arri ve). The low
lighting, 'strategicall y' placed wrought-iron gates and the
metal rock interior will sui t some more than others, but the
friendl y staff and separation of weed and drink sales (rare
so close to the station) make i t a worthwhile addi tion to our
list. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00.
Dolphins F-7, Kerkstraat 39, tel. (+31) 206 25 91 62.
You won't find a place like this anywhere in Amsterdam or any
other place on the planet for that matter. With an overwhelm-
ing marine theme and the friendl y dolphin as your guide you
can make a selection from the affordable and obviously placed
menu, sit down at one of the many high quality vaporizers and
just do your thing. The constant bubbling and of course your
choice of herb will make you feel as if submerged in another
world. If inhaling at a stool isn't your thing, there are large
sofas to sink into and the friendl y staff can ensure all your
needs are met down here underwater, although you may have
to swim to the surface (or the bar) to get served. QOpen
10:00 - 01:00. GBXW
Funny People B-1, Nieuwebrugsteeg 24, tel. (+31)
206 23 86 63. This coffeeshop is a bi t dark and on the
small side, but the candles, comfy seating and cushions all
ensure a relati vel y cosy experience and i ts located near
the train station. The dcor has no particular theme, but
is still pleasing to the eye even before a smoke. A TV and
some board games are available as well as a few snacks.
A good choice to get a quick high while wai ting for a train or
hotel check-in. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00.
JGX
HIGH TIMES
46
HIGH TIMES
Grasshopper A-1, Oudebrugsteeg 16, tel. (+31) 206 26
12 59, www.thegrasshopper.nl. This grand establishment
is a one-stop shop for food, drink and smoke. It's close enough
to the station for a one-hour stopover or you could even just
grab a beer, a steak and a joint without even leaving the
premises. The mul tiple floors cover each of these aspects
and it has a pre-club feel in the evening with private booth
tables, colourful lights and bar games like pool. The massive
outdoor terrace overlooking the canal is one of the best spots
in summer for boat, street and people watching and is, not
surprisingl y, incredibl y popular with tourists. QOpen 08:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. PJB
Greenhouse Centrum B-2, Oudezijds Voorburgwal
191, tel. (+31) 206 27 17 39, www.greenhouse.org.
Part of one of the best coffeeshop chains, this establishment
in a busy part of the city centre is quite busy itself and with
good reason! The outside seating area next to the canal away
from the main drag is an ideal spot for smoking on a sunny
day. When the weather does go bad, however, its colourful
interior is a pleasure for stoned eyes. The product sold here
is some of the best in the Netherlands, not to mention the
most varied, and well worth anal ysis under a microscope,
which is convenientl y found at the same counter. The livel y
atmosphere and large tables may not make it the best place
for a relax and a read, but is probabl y more appropriate
for meeting new people and perhaps planning a night out.
QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. JB
Katsu H-10, 1e van der Helststraat 70, www.katsu.
nl. Katsu's laid-back atmosphere and i ts impressi ve can-
nabis selection are just two reasons to head over to the
De Pijp neighbourhood. The friendl y owner has created an
atmosphere where locals, and the occasional tourist, can
feel at home while smoking a joint or taking a toke of a
bong. To avoid confusion make sure that the staff weighs
your goodies in front of you and skip the potent 0G18 weed
unless you're a very experienced smoker. According to new
laws that will be implemented soon, it will be categorised as
a hard drug. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. X
La Tertulia E-6, Prinsengracht 312, tel. (+31) 206 23
85 03, www.coffeeshopamsterdam.com. Open since
1983, one of the oldest coffeeshops in Amsterdam is also
one of the most appealing and original for smokers and non-
smokers alike. Apart from the relativel y ordinary weed menu,
the environment here includes extensive detailed artwork on
the outside as well as the inside, providing trippy experiences
at every corner. The selection of drinks and toasties is more
extensive than in most coffeeshops in Amsterdam and the
many plants, as well as the mul tiple levels and patio furniture
make one feel as if they were picnicking in a garden. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. B
Lion of Judah (Bushman) B-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal
47, tel. (+31) 206 24 27 23. Beware! If you can't relate to
the Rastafarian way of life, you may not enjoy this coffeeshop.
If, however, you'd like to embrace your inner Marley, then by
all means pay a visit to Lion of Judah. The reggae music and
black history dcor as well as the real Rastafarian (or so it
appears) serving you behind the bar will certainl y help you to
get closer to Jah with rather normal legal and de-criminalised
products on offer here, mon. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00.
Magic A-3, Herengracht 287, tel. (+31) 206 13 95
96. This charming North African-style coffeeshop boasts
computers with internet access and a pool table, along with
other games, as well as large comfortable seating areas. The
Moroccan tea will make you even more relaxed if you decide
to spark up, particularl y after the scenic walk to get to here.
QOpen 10:00 - 01:00.
Noon F-8, Zieseniskade 22, tel. (+31) 206 23 02 22.
Colourful, detailed dcor and comfortable seating make this
an ideal coffeeshop for relaxation. Stare at the murals, chat
with locals or try the vaporizer while sitting at one of its large
tables. There are internet-connected PCs, a TV and even
a bicycle pump last time we checked, as well as the usual
smoking paraphernalia.
Old Church B-2, Oudekerksplein 54, tel. (+31) 204 20
12 64. This coffeeshop is surprisingl y hard to find given its
position in the centre of Amsterdam, but the giant neon signs
on the facade will certainl y help. Slightl y removed from the
main canals and touristy streets, it still provides convenient
access to the Red Light District. Its outdoor terraces are a
pleasure to experience in the summer, but the odd rustic/In-
dian theme and the ordinary menus mean that the highlight of
this coffeeshop is its outdoor terrace, and that's about it.
Paradox D-7, 1e Bloemdwarsstraat, tel. (+31) 206 23
56 39, www.paradoxcoffeeshop.com. Amsterdam used to
boast over 1,000 coffeeshops, but these days onl y a quarter
of these remain, including Paradox in the heart of the Jordaan,
which has served as a haven for local smokers since 1991.
Most tourists never set foot in this quiet place, even though
it's more than worth a detour. Its walls are regularly decorated
by promising young graffiti artists and the best works will
make you feel like you're hallucinating even when you're not
stoned. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. JX
Rastababy F-3, Prins Hendrikkade 7 III, tel. (+31) 206
24 74 03. Convenientl y close to the station and complete
with outdoor terrace as well as a conservatory-type lobby
area, this coffeeshop is great spot to wait for the train if you're
leaving, or to recover from your travels if arriving. The friendl y
staff, pleasant music and menu options provide a satisfying
smoking experience, particularl y if loaded with luggage - no
stairs or steps.
Straight from the source
Ganja Tours Tel. (+31) 613 97 93 21, www.the-
bigtrip.us. If youre in a hurry or dont know which one
of Amsterdams 250 coffeeshops to try call Ganja Tours.
Theyre experts in the field of cannabis consumption.
During the tour youll visit a few of the more unknown
coffeeshops in town and learn a bit about current trends in
the world of cannabis. Naturally, theres also plenty of time
for smoking and you can ask the budtender questions.
QWalking and bike tours from 49 for four hours.
Weed tours
47
HIGH TIMES
Rokerij IV E-7, Elandsgracht 53, tel. (+31) 206 23 09
38, www.rokerij.org. The latest addi tion to the Rokerij
chain, this coffeeshop can be found in the scenic Jordaan
district. Featuring coloured candles, wooden tables, cushion
seating and a pleasant interior adorned with both Tibetan
and Moroccan details, this coffeeshop could be the ideal
place to play a game or two while making use of some of
the bongs provided. The herbal menu here is exceptional
and includes cannabis cup varieties and a good selection of
drinks like fresh OJ.
Rusland B-2, Rusland 16, tel. (+31) 206 27 94 68.
Rusland provides a pleasant break from the coffeeshop
norm, al though to no extreme extent. The extensive choice
of 40 teas provides a world of fragrances to complement the
other pungent herbs you can purchase here. A successful
but original mix of Russian and Moroccan dcor, a common
cushioned seating area complete with a view onto the street
and a friendl y cat make this place an excellent environment
in which to relax alone or with friends. You can also expect
small wooden tables, golden ashtrays and many different
levels to explore.
Siberie A-1, Brouwersgracht 11, tel. (+31) 206 23 59
09, www.coffeeshopsiberie.nl. Visit this coffeeshop on a
Friday or Saturday and you'll be able to enjoy some live DJing
with your smoke in a cosy atmosphere. Candles, art work,
flowers on the tables as well as good music all contribute to
the success of this converted garage. Some food is available,
games are provided and the large wooden tables give all the
space necessary to enjoy your time here without inconve-
niencing other patrons. Not unlike its Russian namesake, it's
located far from the civilisation of the city centre so most cus-
tomers tend to be local and it's rarel y ever crowded. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. PEGXW
Smokey B-3, Rembrandtplein 24, tel. (+31) 206 23
72 44, www.smokey.nl. A large, sprawling affair on the
Leidseplein, this formidable pub/pre-nightclub coffeshop is a
good place to start with (or without) friends before going on
to the nightlife provided by this infamous party area. Similar to
a big American-style bar its large number of chairs and tables
are able to accommodate groups of any size, but this might
not be the place for a quiet, comfortable smoke. However, if
you do enjoy a toke with your party and would like to mix it
up with both locals and tourists alike, you could hardl y find
a better venue.
Solo B-2, Korte Koningsstraat 2, tel. (+31) 206 24 06
45. Located near the quiet but picturesque Nieuwmarkt part
of Amsterdam, this light and simpl y decorated coffeeshop is
run by friendl y staff. With one of the walls entirel y covered in
posters, your eyes may wander while having a toke here, as
well as your ears thanks to the chilled music. It's a good place
for a break while exploring one of the side streets nearby,
but best of all, it provides free marshmallows in case you
feel light-headed (a common side effect of the herb - well if
it's good anyway), a little peckish or indeed, if you just fancy
one. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
The Saint B-3, Regulierssteeg 2, tel. (+31) 644 14
53 29. Down a neat little side street in a corner of the city
centre, this graffi ti den-cum-coffeeshop (or the other way
around) has its own resident tarantula. Have no fear. It's kept
it in a vivarium, but if you're lucky you'll arrive at feeding time
which will definitel y provide a particularl y trippy experience,
that is if the crazy artwork and mirrors don't get you going
first. The staff are friendl y and its distant location ensure
a local clientele - an advantage if you're just looking for a
quiet time. Q W
For Smart & Head shops
see shopping on p.60
Although Hollands policy of tolerance toward coffeeshops
is considered to be an enlightened example to many other
countries, the Dutch government has been struggling
for years to find a solution to this huge problem which
causes a tremendous amount of trouble for society.
The latest brainchild of the politicians is the so-called
Weed Pass. Ivo Opstelten, Dutch Minister of Security
and Justice, wants to introduce a kind of club pass that
allows only Dutch citizens to buy cannabis.
In other words, you wouldnt be able get into a
cof feeshop wi thout a pass. Of course, Opstel ten
completely ignores the fact that most cannabis users
do not wish to be registered and would most likely look
elsewhere, e.g. the streets, to find their pot creating new
illegal markets in the process. This would undoubtedly
cause even more trouble than any existing problems.
Still the minister hopes that this policy will reduce the
number of drug tourists to the Netherlands. (Apparently
only people who want to eat cheese, admire windmills
and visit tulip plantations are welcome in Holland.) This
approach does, however, create a whole slew of different
legal complications. For this reason, many opponents
dont believe that the grass pass would be a successful
system on a national level. After all, the Opium Act,
which literally states that the sale of weed is prohibited,
would have to be changed. In other words, soft drugs are
tolerated in Holland and not as many people believe
legal.
Considering the extremely slow pace of decision
making in Dutch politics, it could be years before this
weed pass is actually introduced. That is to say, i f
the law were to be implemented at all, because the
absolute ban on the sale of soft drugs would have to
be erased from the Opium Act essentially legalising its
sale and distribution. This would be a clear violation of
international treaties including a treaty against all forms
of discrimination.
This is yet another big issue of many in this veritable
Pandoras Box. Like it or not, to bar foreigners entrance
to any establishment, including coffeeshops, would be
to discriminate against a whole group of people on the
basis of their nationality. On a national level therefore
the introduction of a weed pass is going to be extremely
complicated, but local municipalities are divided on the
issue and have their own ideas. In fact, mayors have the
jurisdiction to order all coffeeshops in their city not to sell
weed to foreign tourists, but at the moment its unclear
which cities support these measures.
However, people who enjoy smoking a joint have been
given support from an unexpected corner. Many of the
youth departments of established political parties have
suggested that the cannabis growing industry should
be legalised in order to bring the business out of the
shadows into the open. At the moment a coffeeshop
manager is allowed to sell weed to the consumer legally,
but he has to buy it from a murky sources, which are still
obscure and controlled by the underworld. This less than
sterling image is a burden that the cannabis industry
currently bears and will continue doing until the ambiguity
of the Hollands coffeeshop policy is cleared up.
Drugs, tourists & Politicians
48
WHAT TO SEE
WHAT TO SEE
Essential Amsterdam
The Old Church (De Oude Kerk te Amsterdam)
B-1, Oudekerksplein 23, tel. (+31) 206 25 82 84, www.
oudekerk.nl/infoeng.htm. Al though no one knows for cer-
tain, it's believed that Amsterdam's oldest stone building, the
Oude Kerk, was erected at the end of the 13th or possibly the
beginning of the 14th century. The important edifice wasn't
onl y used for religious purposes and often served as a safe
for precious documents, a treasury and also a homeless
shel ter as the city's indigent were allowed to spend the night
here until the Cal vinists came to power in the 16th century.
I t was also the place where couples had to register their
intentions to marry as Rembrandt and his bride Saskia did
in 1638. She's buried on the far end of the building opposite
the entrance. The historic monument and its wooden ceiling
were on the verge of collapse in the 20th century and it was
finall y closed in 1951 for lengthy restoration. In 1979 it was
again opened to the public and is now one of the city's most
visited attractions. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00.
Admission: adul ts 5, children 12 and under free.
The Rembrandt House Museum (Rembrandthuis)
G/H-5, Jodenbreestraat 4, tel. (+31) 205 20 04 00, fax
(+31) 205 20 04 01, www.rembrandthuis.nl. This historic
house was bought by one of the Netherlands' most illustrious
native sons in 1639 for the impressive sum of 13,000 guilders
at a time when a day labourer was content to make 300
guilders in a year. Unfortunatel y, scandal and disgrace made
him unpopular and work became scarce. He was unable to
cover the loan and went bankrupt in 1656. His possessions
were auctioned off and he moved to more modest lodgings
on the Rozengracht. An audio guide will take you through the
house, which is reconstructed to look exactl y as it did when
Rembrandt was at the peak of his career. View the foyer where
he exhibited his work for potential buyers, his living quarters
complete with funny box bed, the attic where his apprentices
worked, his curiosity room and of course his studio. Staff also
demonstrate how etchings were mass-produced using cop-
per plates. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: adul ts 10,
children 6 - 17 years 3, children 5 and under free. A
Van Gogh Museum F-9, Paulus Potterstraat 7, tel.
(+31) 205 70 52 00, www.vangoghmuseum.com. Very
few tourists leave Amsterdam without visiting this incredible
museum. Its vast collection includes roughl y 200 paintings,
500 drawings and 750 letters that comprise most of the
works produced by the troubled artist in his short 10-year
career. After dabbling in religious vocations and art selling,
he finally embarked on his true calling in 1880, which is where
the museum's permanent exhibit begins. Those familiar with
onl y his later works will no doubt be surprised to see the dark
greys, browns and blues used in Van Gogh's earliest still lifes
of cabbages and clogs, not to mention some of the subject
matter such as a smoking skeleton. The vibrant paintings
for which he is now so renowned onl y appeared later during
his time in Paris when he discovered colour'. Al though the
museum is indeed a shrine to all things Van Gogh, it also
displays a varied collection of works by world-famous artists
from earl y mentors like Anton Mauve and Jules Dupr to such
icons of Impressionism as Monet, Manet, Pissaro, Gauguin,
Renoir, Czanne and Toulouse-Lautrec from which he drew
inspiration. The museum also offers temporary exhibitions
in the basement as well as a caf and a large shop where
you can buy prints, books and other Van Gogh souvenirs. The
crowds of visitors at peek times might limit your apprecia-
tion of the experience, so why not drop by on a Friday night
when you can enjoy your art with some music and a cocktail!
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 22:00. Admission: adul ts
14, children 17 and under free. AUK
Brewery & Distillery tours
Heineken Experience G-8, Stadhouderskade 78, tel.
(+31) 205 23 92 22, www.heineken.com/experience. If
you'd like to see how one of the world's most popular beers is
made and sample the finished product at its ultramodern bar,
then look no further than the Heineken Experience, which truly
is an experience. Although this tasty brew, which is distributed
in over 170 countries around the globe isn't produced on the
premises, you can take a tour and learn about the company's
evolution from its founding in 1864 in Amsterdam to its current
status as a mul tinational brand. View exhibits that chronicle
Heineken's innovati ve leaps in both brewing technology
and marketing that launched the famous red star logo on
six continents. Pass the awards gallery and enter another
room where the four basic ingredients of beer are explained
and then move on to a large hall filled with giant copper vats
where you can take part in the process by grinding mal t. Next
pass the stables where the Heineken Shire horses are kept,
eventuall y making your way to the Brew U 4D experience
where you see, feel and smell what it's like to be brewed from
start to finish. Take a break at the tasting bar where a guide
will pour you a brew and explain the mysteries behind the
thick foam that Dutch bartenders al ways leave at the top of
the glass. It turns out that they're not just trying to pour you
less to save some money. There reall y is a reason behind it.
Proceed to the video room with green couches and a ceiling
made of Heineken bottles, bottle your own personalised brew
for 5, create your own video or move on to the Innovation
Station and the historic advertising gallery. At long last you'll
reach the modern world bar where you can enjoy two extra
cold beers with dozens of other Heineken fans while listening
to classic and contemporary al ternative rock tunes. Exit the
experience via the Heineken shop where you can get pretty
much anything with the Heineken logo on it. QOpen 11:00
- 19:00. Admission: 15. AU
House of Bols Cocktail and
Genever Experience F-9,
Paulus Potterstraat 14, tel.
(+31) 205 70 85 75, www.
houseof bols.nl. Founded i n
Amsterdam in 1575, the House
of Bols is one the world's oldest
spirits makers, not to mention one
of the oldest firms on record. Its
renowned jenever recipe dates
back to as earl y as 1664 and
was introduced to the Bri ti sh
roughl y 25 years later where i t
was modi fied to English tastes
and produced locally as gin. Although the venerable company
moved away to a location near The Hague in 1969 it opened
this amazing tasting experience and bartending school near
the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam in 2007. The award-
winning Genever Experience showcases the roughl y 40
liqueurs it sells in 110 countries around the world as well as
the wide varieties of jenevers it produces. Take a self-guided,
interactive tour and learn about the history of the House of
Bols, discover the importance of both smell, taste and colour
in the drinking process, practice your bartending skills in
the flair simulator and, best of all, taste a delicious cocktail
prepared by graduates of the upstairs drinks pouring school
in the trendy Mirror Bar. Just choose your desired cocktail
on the touch screen, print out the recipe and hand it to the
bartender. Additional cocktails cost onl y 5 each so you can
make an evening of it every Friday night! A souvenir shop sells
all manner of gifts from personalised liquor bottles and cloth-
ing to Delftware spirits receptacles. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00,
Fri 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. Admission: 11.50. A
WHAT TO SEE
49
WHAT TO SEE
Buildings
Royal Palace Amsterdam (Koninklijk Paleis Am-
sterdam) A-2, Dam, tel. (+31) 206 20 40 60, www.
paleisamsterdam.nl. It's hard to miss the Royal Palace on
Dam Square. When the building was first opened to the public
as the Town Hall in 1655, its lavish interior decorated with
paintings by Ferdinand Bol and Rembrandt was considered
to be the eighth wonder of the world. Louis Napoleon made
it his personal residence in 1808 when he briefl y served as
the King of Holland, but it later became the possession of
the House of Orange. After meandering through a few dull
corridors you'll finall y walk upstairs to the main hall where
your jaw is guaranteed to drop. Seldom have we seen so
much polished marble in one place, not to mention six giant
crystal chandeliers hanging from the timber ceiling covered
in frescos high above the inlaid maps and nautical and
astronomical charts in the floor. The audio guide, which is
included in the price, is essential as none of the rooms have
explanations in any language. A short movie wi th English
subtitles is available before you take the tour. QOpen 12:00
- 17:00. Admission: adul ts 7.50, children 5 - 16 years 6.50,
children under 5 free.
The Weigh Station (De Waag) B-2, Nieuwmarkt 4,
www.indewaag.nl. This is the most magnificent of the city's
remaining medieval gates. Buil t in 1488, St. Anthony's Gate
(Sint Anthonispoort) eventuall y became an official weigh sta-
tion for merchants, its original purpose as a defensive struc-
ture having become obsolete. A number of local guilds also
moved into the building and each one had its own entrance.
One of the halls was occupied by the Surgeons' Guild that
occasionall y dissected a freshl y executed criminal, a popular
event that was open to the public. Weigh stations and guilds
also fell out of fashion over time and the building was used for
several different purposes over the years, but since 1996 it
has housed a swanky Dutch restaurant with a great summer
terrace on the Nieuwmarkt. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
Churches
Noorderkerk E-4, Noordermarkt 48, tel. (+31) 206 26
64 36, www.noorderkerk.org. As the population of the new
Jordaan neighbourhood began to explode in the 17th century,
the city decided to build a new church for its lower class prot-
estant residents. Hendrick de Keyser, the illustrious designer of
the nearby Westerkerk, was tasked to create the building and
it was finally completed in1623 in all its odd octagonal glory.
Inside the black gravestones that pave the floor have been
polished smooth by centuries of foot traffic from its devoted
parishioners. Although the interior is rather plain, and even the
huge windows have only clear glass, the massive pipe organ is
a sight to see. QOpen Mon 10:30 - 12:30, Sat 11:00 - 13:00,
Sun 13:30 - 17:30. Closed Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri.
St. Nicholas' Church B-1, Prins Hendrikkade 73,
tel. (+31) 206 24 87 49, www.nicolaas-parochie.nl.
For centuries Amsterdam's Catholics were banned from
practi cing their fai th openl y. The ci ty's main churches
had been converted to Protestant houses of worship and
Catholics moved their services underground or, in some
instances, above ground in the attics of buildings. In fact,
many clandestine churches loyal to the Pope were avail-
able in Amsterdam and the authori ties often knew of their
existence, but, as usual, the practical Dutch turned a blind
eye to illegal' acti vi ty as long as i t wasn't too brazen. When
Catholics were finall y allowed to worship freel y the hidden
churches could no l onger servi ce the growing demand
of the fai thful and a new church was necessary. Finall y,
in 1887, the neo-Renaissance St. Nicholas' Church was
consecrated. I t's interior is lavishl y decorated wi th red
and whi te marble, gil t ceilings, stained glass and lots of
statues of saints. You can listen to choral evensong every
Saturday at 17:00. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00, Mon, Sat 12:00
- 15:00. Closed Sun.
Westerkerk E-5, Prin-
sengracht 281, www.
westerkerk.nl . One of
the symbol s of Amster-
dam, the Westerkerk was
consecrated i n 1631 as
a Dutch Reformed church
and i t still tends to i ts Prot-
estant flock to this day. I ts
Dutch Renai ssance styl e
i s unmi stakabl e and i ts
massi ve tower embellished
wi th the crown of Austrian
Emperor Maximilian soars
to a height of 85m above
the ci ty. The impoverished
painter Rembrandt was buried here in 1669, but no one
is qui te sure exactl y where, yet a plaque marks the ap-
proximate spot not far from his son Ti tus' grave. Anyone
familiar wi th the stor y of Anne Frank al so knows that
she often heard the bells from the church in her hidden
annex onl y a short distance away. The tower bell is the
largest in the Netherlands and weighs in at an impressi ve
7,500kg. Al though the church is also used as a concert
hall, i t's closed to visi tors during the winter months. The
Westermarkt square outside is a popular meeting place
where you can relax on benches that look like lounge chairs,
eat some raw herring from one of the food stalls or take a
look at i ts monuments - a statue of Anne Frank and three
triangular pink grani te slabs dedicated to persecuted gays
near and far. Q Open April - October 11:00 - 15:00. Photo:
Amsterdam Toerisme & Congres Bureau (ATCB)
50
WHAT TO SEE
WHAT TO SEE
Jewish Amsterdam
Anne Frank House (Anne Frank Huis) E-5, Prin-
sengracht 263 - 267, tel. (+31) 205 56 71 05, www.
annefrank.org. There are ver y few peopl e who aren't
acquainted with the tragic story of Anne Frank - a brave girl
who dreamed of becoming an author while in hiding from
Nazi persecution. The diary of her time spent in the secret
annex was published in 1947 and later translated in over
65 languages. The popularity of her work is reflected in the
huge queues outside this museum that has been teaching
Amsterdam's visitor's about the Holocaust, the story of the
Frank famil y and their desperate struggle to survive and the
evils of anti-Semitism and racism since 1960. Inside you'll
walk through the warehouse where workers attended to their
business every day completel y unaware that several people
were hiding upstairs. Otto Frank was a successful business-
man who had moved to the Netherlands after Hitler came to
power in 1933. When the Nazis occupied Holland, he signed
over his firm to trusted partners but remained its director in
secret. After winding your way through rooms adorned with
quotes from Anne's diary you eventuall y reach the bookcase
that hid the entrance to the annex where the Frank's lived.
You can view the original red plaid diary and watch videos,
but the most touching exhibits are the pencil marks indicating
the growth of the children, the magazine clippings that were
used to decorate the walls and Otto Frank's moving account
of first reading his daughter's life's work. He was the onl y
famil y member to survive the concentration camps where
they were sent in 1944. Despite much research, historians
have never discovered who placed the anonymous phone call
that betrayed the Franks. Bear in mind that mobile phones
must be switched off inside and that backpacks must be
held in your hands as space is often limited and the exhibits
could be damaged by an errant bag. A museum caf and
shop are also available, but there is no wardrobe to leave
your belongings. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00.
Admission: adul ts 8.50, children 10 - 17 years 4, children
nine and under free. AK
Jewish Historical Museum (Joods Historisch Mu-
seum) H-6, Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1, tel. (+31) 205 31
03 10, fax (+31) 205 31 03 11, info@jhm.nl, www.jhm.
nl. This extensive museum dedicated to Amsterdam Jewish
life opened in 1987 and is spread out over what used to be
four different synagogues. Begin your journey in the oldest
building erected in 1660, which was abandoned for nearl y
30 years after WWII until it was finall y restored to its former
glory. This section of the museum chronicles the earliest
years of Jewish settlement in Amsterdam and you can view
an impressive array of religious items, hol y texts and ancient
books as well as a giant silver menorah nearly 2m tall! You can
also sit down as if you were a worshipper and watch videos
about various ri tuals and tradi tions. On the second floor,
which was originally used by the female congregation, you can
view paintings by famous Jewish artists such as Josef Israels
and learn about the large migration of Jews from the Iberian
Peninsula, Poland and Lithuania who came to Amsterdam to
escape persecution.
Yet another exhibi tion illustrates Jewish achievements in
the 20th century such as the founding of such international
retail giants as C&A and HEMA, which were both founded by
local Jews. The attempted destruction of Jewish life during
the Holocaust is also featured here with displays of objects
such as money boxes', which were left by Jews to their gen-
tile neighbours for safekeeping. Many were donated to the
museum decades after the war. A caf, museum shop and
an incredible children's museum are also available. QOpen
11:00 - 17:00. Admission: adul ts 9, children 13 - 17 years
4.50, children 12 and under free. AUK
Portuguese Synagogue (Por-
tugese Synagoge) H-5, Jonas
Danil Meijerplein 7, tel. (+31)
206 24 53 51, www.por tug-
esesynagoge.nl. Most European
capitals were hardly an ideal place for
Jews to call home in medieval times,
but no city was more tolerant of this
ethnic group than Amsterdam in the
17th-century. As the city prospered,
i ts population grew by l eaps and
bounds and among i ts many new
arrivals were Jews from around the
continent looking for a better life. They completed work on this
synagogue in 1675 and since then it has served as a centre
for Jewish life in Amsterdam housing also offices, archives,
ritual baths and a rabbinate. Al though the synagogue is cur-
rentl y being restored, it's still open to the public and an audio
guide will acquaint you with the building's long history. QOpen
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission: adul ts 6.50, children
13 - 17 years 4, children 12 and under free.
Museums
Amsterdam Museum A-3, Kalverstraat 92 / Nieuwezi-
jds Voorburgwal 357, tel. (+31) 205 23 18 22, www.
amsterdammuseum.nl. Although there are many city's in
Europe and the Netherlands with histories stretching much
farther into the past, Amsterdam's story is unique and unusual
and worth discovering at this fascinating and eclectic museum.
Follow the development of this powerful port through medieval
artefacts and art from ancient shoes dating back to the 14th
century and the oldest known map of the city by renowned
cartographer Cornelis Antonisz, who brought the town and its
12,000-strong population to life in 1538, to period furniture and
paintings collected by wealthy Amsterdammers of the Golden
Age. You can also learn about the urban development of the city
from its bold plans to dig canals to 20th-century modernisation
projects as well as lots of fun exhibits that highlight popular
culture from films about the Ajax football club and a model of
Holland's (and perhaps the world's) first gay and lesbian bar,
t Mandje, to interesting facts about prostitution and the first
coffeeshop, the Bulldog. The museum is currently undergoing
renovations so the route between exhibits is often confusing,
but it's worth the effort. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 11:00
- 17:00. Admission: adults 10, children 6 - 18 years 5, children
5 and under free. BK
MOVING SOON
Amsterdam Tulip Museum E-5, Prinsengracht 112 or
116, tel. (+31) 204 21 00 95, www.amsterdamtulipmu-
seum.com. Walk into this flower and gift shop near the Anne
Frank House and learn about the fascinating history of the
tulip from its humble origins along the Silk Road of Central Asia
to its current status as a somewhat common, mass-produced
flower that is still a cornerstone of the Dutch economy and a
symbol of national identity for the people of the Netherlands.
Discover how the word tulip was derived from a simple mis-
understanding and how the plant was smuggled to Europe
from the Turkish sul tan's royal court in 1555. Learn how tulips
made their journey to the Netherlands in 1598 where they
were cultivated and eventually fetched prices on par with Am-
sterdam canal houses before the bubble burst ruining many
a flower merchant. The evolution of modern tulip farming is
also on display. Although the museum isn't very big, its owner
is passionate about the tulip and provides a much-needed
history of one of the nation's most profitable commodities.
At the time of writing the museum was scheduled to move
a couple of doors down to No.116. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission: adul ts 4, children free.
WHAT TO SEE
51
WHAT TO SEE
Gassan Diamonds H-5, Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 173
- 175, tel. (+31) 206 22 53 33, www.gassandiamonds.
nl. Learn everything about a girl's best friend' in this fam-
il y-owned diamond factory where you can take a free tour
of the premises in dozens of different languages and buy
something bright and sparkl y for your significant other in one
of its showrooms. Al though you're by no means obligated to
purchase anything, we recommend a visit to any young man
who plans on buying an engagement ring at some point in
his life. They'll teach you about the four Cs' - colour, clarity,
carat and cut - and how to spot a fake so you don't get ripped
off elsewhere. Watch diamond cutters and polishers pl y their
trade and finish your experience with a complimentary cup of
coffee or tea and a Dutch cookie at its Delftware shop next
door. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission: free. A
Hermitage Amsterdam H-6, Amstel 51, tel. (+31) 205
30 74 88, www.hermitage.nl. Russia's most illustrious
museum has a subsidiary in Amsterdam, which is housed in
a beautiful 17th classical-style building called the Amstelhof
that was once a home for poverty-stricken elderl y women.
Since 2009, the building has hosted periodic themed exhibi-
tions that display some of the Hermitage's most prized pos-
sessions from stunningl y preserved artefacts of the ancient
world to masterpieces of European art. Permanent exhibits
dedicated to the Amstelhof and the origins of the Hermitage
Museum and the Russian royal famil y are also available. Ru-
bens, Van Dyck & Jordaens: Flemish paintings from the
Hermitage will be on display until March 16, 2012. QOpen
10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Admission: adul ts 15,
children 17 and under free. AU
Het Grachtenhuis F-7, Herengracht 386, mail@het-
grachtenhuis.nl, www.hetgrachtenhuis.nl. A series of
fortunate coincidences led to the creation of this museum
dedicated to the evolution of Amsterdam's famous canal
bel t and the houses that sprung up along them. Al though
the ci ty offers other Golden Age museums that display
renovated or reconstructed 17th-century interiors, Het
Grachtenhuis focuses on the development of the city during
its most prosperous era with a variety of modern mul timedia
experiences and films on the top floors of the building, while
still showing off its antique grandeur of marble foyers, period
furniture and paintings by illustrious Dutch artists. Watch the
Beatles taking a tour of the city on a canal boat, peer into
a dollhouse and watch a hologram of typical city life or just
admire the dcor of a protected monument designed by one
of the Netherlands' best ever archi tects. QOpen 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: adul ts 8, children 6 - 18
years 4, children under 5 free. A
Het Schip Museum C-3, Spaarndammerplantsoen 140,
tel. (+31) 204 75 09 24, www.hetschip.nl. One of the
crowning achievements of Amsterdam School architecture,
this unusual building was erected in 1919 as proof that af-
fordable working-class housing could not onl y be functional,
but stylish. The historic edifice is still inhabited today, so you
have to take a guided tour of the museum, which begins at a
former post office decorated with funky tile work characteristic
of this Dutch design movement. Guides will lead you around
the building pointing out interesting features like the bay
window that looks like a cigar, little windmills on the faade
that symbolise the rural workers who came to work in the
city's factories and the iconic tower, which is meant to be a
beacon of socialism. You can also view an apartment that
looks as it did in the earl y 20th century and take in an exhibit
dedicated to Amsterdam School architecture and its most
renowned adherents. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
dmission: adul ts 7.50. A
Houseboat Museum (Het Woonbootmuseum) E-6,
Prinsengracht 296K, tel. (+31) 204 27 07 50, www.
houseboatmuseum.nl. The owner of this converted freighter
that dates back to 1912 knows a thing or two about house-
boats as he lived onboard for 22 years before moving ashore
with the rest of the land lovers in Amsterdam. He now runs this
museum which receives over 38,000 visitors each year who
are curious to see how people can use a boat as a permanent
residence. Start with an amusing slide show of houseboats on
the canals during all seasons and the perils and maintenance
involved in this unique way of life. View pictures and scale
models and discover interesting facts about the waterways of
the city such as the average depth on an Amsterdam canal (it's
2.8m). A children's corner is available where the little tykes can
draw boats and you can also enjoy a cappuccino or a cup of tea
in the living room. QOpen Fri - Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Admission:
adults 3.50, children 2.75.
Katten Kabinet G-7, Herengracht 497, tel. (+31) 206
26 53 78, www.kattenkabinet.nl. Let's face it. There are
dog people and there are cat people. The eccentric owner
of this unusual museum is most definitel y the latter. Over the
years a huge collection of paintings, sculpture, 100-year-old
advertising posters, porcelain figurines and other objects
related to cats has been displayed on four floors in this historic
canal house on the Herengracht that boasts antique furniture,
original parquet floors and ceiling murals. QOpen 10:00 -
16:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Admission: adul ts 6, children
4 - 12 years 3, children 3 and under free. A
Madame Tussauds Amsterdam A-2, Dam 20, tel.
(+31) 205 22 10 10, www.madametussauds.com. Back
in 1777 when Marie Tussaud created her first wax figure
of Vol taire, very few would have guessed that major cities
around the globe would have their own museums named
after the venerable woman. In 1836 at the tender age of 74,
she opened her first location in London proving that people
have al ways been fascinated with celebrities and that the
present obsession with Holl ywood stars and pop musicians
isn't just a fad. Queues at the Amsterdam Tussuads can
be a bit long at lunchtime, but that's because everyone is
photographed with Barack Obama before taking the lift up-
stairs where you'll be entertained by a light and sound show
dedicated to the Golden Age of the city in the 17th century.
This is followed by a maze of rooms featuring life size wax
figures of your favourite heads of state, actors, rock gods,
artists and footballers. Have your photo taken with the Dalai
Lama, Gandhi, Madonna, Pablo Picasso or Winston Churchill.
YQOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Admission: adul ts 19 - 21, children
5 - 15 years 14 - 16, children 4 and under free. Last admis-
sion at 17:30. AU
Hermitage Museum at night Amsterdam Toerisme &
52
WHAT TO SEE
WHAT TO SEE
Museum Amstelkring - Our Lord in the Attic (Mu-
seum Ons' Lieve Heer op Solder) B-1, Oudezijds Voor-
burgwal 40, tel. (+31) 206 24 66 04, www.opsolder.
nl. From the outside you would never know that this typical
canal house hides an interesting secret and that's exactl y
what its architect had in mind. For many years Catholics were
prohibited from openl y worshipping in Amsterdam and the
solution for many was to hold services in secret. A weal thy
German merchant named Jan Hartman bought the house you
see now in 1661 and slowl y began building a proper church
with an al tar, organ and seating for over 100 people in the
attic. When the ban on Catholicism was lifted the building
was immediatel y turned into a museum, which is why it has
survived completel y intact to this day. You can take a tour
of the building and see how the famil y lived at the time and
walk up the same wooden staircase that countless Catholics
used to reach the beautiful church. Al though it is currentl y
being renovated and will include a visitors centre next door by
2013, the building is still open to the public. QOpen 10:00
- 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Admission: adul ts 8, children 6
- 18 years 4, children under 6 free.
Museum Geelvinck G-7, Keizersgracht 633, tel. (+31)
207 15 59 00, www.museumgeelvinck.nl. Enter the build-
ing and walk through the beautiful garden to reach this hidden
gem of a canal house. Original Golden Age furniture, frescos,
musical instruments and marble floors are all available for your
perusal in four rooms on the ground floor while the cellar hosts
exhibitions like the current Treasure from Indonesia which
will be open to the public until October. Most of the exhibits
are onl y available in Dutch but you can read a brochure about
the building to get the gist of things. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Tue. Admission: adul t 8, children 6 - 18 years 4,
children 5 and under free.
Museum of Bags and Purses (Tassen Museum
Hendrikje) H-7, Herengracht 573, tel. (+31) 205 24
64 52, www.museumofbagsandpurses.com. What began
as Hendrikje Ivo's obsession with purses blossomed into the
world's largest collection of handbags and purses with over
4,000 exhibits spanning 500 years. Located in a prestigious
17th-century home that once belonged to the then mayor of
Amsterdam, the museum begins on the top floor where you
can view satchels, boxes and letter cases from the 16th - 19th
centuries made from every material imaginable including ivory,
tortoiseshell, leather, lace, silk, straw and wood. 20th-century
exhibits include funky Art Deco purses as well as bags made
from exotic animals like ostriches, crocodiles and, yes, even
armadillos. A large collection of famous designer bags is also
on display including labels like Louis Vuitton, Pierre Cardin,
Versace, Dior, Gucci, D&G and many others while contempo-
rary exhibitions are on view on the ground floor. Naturall y, no
purse museum would be complete without a museum shop
where you can buy bags and accessories to remember your
visit. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 7.50, children
under 12 free. AK
REOpENEd aftER RENOVatIONS!
National Maritime Museum Amsterdam (Neder-
lands Scheepvaartmuseum Amsterdam) I-4, Kat-
tenburgerplein 1, tel. (+31) 205 23 22 22, fax (+31)
205 23 22 13, info@hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl, www.
hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl. In the 17th century the Nether-
lands was one of the wealthiest and most important nations in
the world and this was in large part due to its maritime prow-
ess. No other country in the world had as many ships sailing
the seas of the globe as Holland. After thorough renovations,
the Maritime Museum once again demonstrates how the sea
has defined Dutch cul ture. Stimulating, interactive exhibits
bring 500 years of maritime history to life. The significance of
this industry in the modern age is also explained in a clear and
concise manner. Children will also love the museum, especially
the replica of the famous VOC (Dutch East India Company)
ship. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission: 15, children 5 and
over 7.50. TJAL
NEMO Science Centre H-4,
Oosterdok 2, tel. (+31) 205 31
32 33, www.e-nemo.nl. Look
for the big green building jutting
out into the water to find this fun
science centre that will make you
wish you were a kid again. The
sounds of children's laughter and
unreserved awe will accompany
you on a variety of levels where
visitors can learn about science
wi thout the boring textbooks
and teachers. Make giant soap
bubbles, generate electricity or lots of other hands on activi-
ties on the first floor and watch Rupe Goldeberg machines
on the second or learn how objects can be moved with light.
You can also see how fuel engines work or touch a real, 4.65
billion-year-old meteorite; discover why teenagers look, feel
and act the way they do; see how our dail y lives will change
in the future with new and advanced technologies; and lots of
other interesting stuff. You can also bring your own lunch and
eat it in the cafeteria or buy some food on the top floor terrace
caf that offers a great view of the city. A good museum shop
is also available where you can buy science experiments and
other fun souvenirs for kids. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. Admission: 13.50, children 3 and under free. AK
Rijksmuseum G-8, Museumplein/Jan Luijkenstraat 1,
tel. (+31) 206 74 70 47, www.rijksmuseum.com. This
colossal building occupies nearl y an entire ci ty block and
lies in stark contrast to most of the city's narrow canal-side
abodes. Al though most of the museum is currentl y being
renovated, its most popular exhibits dedicated to the Dutch
old masters are still open to the public. Upon entering you're
confronted by an eclectic collection of all things Dutch includ-
ing a 17th-century canon, a massive model ship and Van der
Helst's giant canvas Banquet in Celebration of the Treaty
of Munster. View ancient weapons, gold and sil ver artefacts
and of course an incredible collection of the nation's best
old masters including Rembrandt, Vermeer, Bol and Steen.
Scenes depict everything from biblical tales and windmilled
landscapes to portrai ts and illustrations of 17th-century
famil y life, not to mention exotic scenes from Holland's far
flung Golden Age colonies. Some of the museum's most
famous paintings like Rembrandt's The Jewish Bride and
The Night Watch are also described in detail in laminated
information cards, so you can take your time and discover
interesting facts about each of these canvases. Queues can
be long at peek times, mostl y due to security checks, so
plan accordingl y. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Admission: adul ts
12.50, 18 and under free.
V.O.C. ship outside the National Maritime Museum
WHAT TO SEE
53
WHAT TO SEE
So Far Dutch Funeral Museum (Nederlands Uit-
vaart Museum Tot Zover) Kruislaan 124, tel. (+31)
206 94 04 82, info@totzover.nl, www.totzover.nl. For
many people death and dying is a subject best avoided, but
the Dutch Funeral Museum called Tot Zover (So Far) tries
to break this taboo by offering explanations of tradi tions
and customs surrounding death, burials and the process of
grieving in the Netherlands. Its collection includes old hair
paintings, death masks and lanterns, bits of film, coffins and
urns and a large number of miniature hearses. Cremation is
also covered in detail, as well as the process of decomposi-
tion experienced by a corpse once it's buried. Modern funeral
rituals of different cul tures are also discussed, but if it's all
too tough to handle you get some fresh air in the adjacent
cemetery. Complimentary audio guides cover the museum as
well as the cemetery. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission: adul ts 5,50, children over 12 2. TLN
Torture Museum A-3, Singel 449, tel. (+31) 203 20
66 42, www.torturemuseum.nl. All major European cities
seem to have a torture museum, so it comes as no surprise
that Amsterdam also has a place since 1985 where tourists
can see how human beings were humiliated and tormented in
past centuries. Many of the agony-inflicting devices on display
have clever monikers like the neck violin, the Spanish horse
and the infamous iron maiden, while others have much more
commonplace names like the rack, the guillotine, the garrotte
or thumbscrews. Although not an implement of torture per se,
the chastity bel t exhibit could certainl y put a crimp in a young
lady's lifestyle and is definitely not something you'll be seeing
in a Victoria's Secret catalogue any time soon. QOpen 10:00
- 23:00. Admission: 7.50, children 4. TJA
Van Loon Museum (Museum Van Loon) G-7,
Keizersgracht 672, tel. (+31) 206 24 52 55, www.
museumvanloon.nl. This magnificent building owned by the
Van Loon famil y trust has a rich and storied history and is one
of the few remaining examples of authentic Dutch golden age
homes in Amsterdam. It was rented by renowned Rembrandt
apprentice Ferdinand Bol soon after its construction in 1671
but passed on to different owners over the centuries until it
was purchased in 1884 by the Van Loon famil y whose most
illustrious ancestor Willem van Loon co-founded the Dutch
East India Company. Al though the famil y was one of the city's
weal thiest, they cul ti vated a tradi tion of opening up their
home to show off its splendour and this tradition has survived
to this day. View 17th-century portraits, period furniture, 18th-
century Dutch porcelain, spectacular wall murals, a centuries-
old working kitchen and a spacious manicured garden all in
the centre of Amsterdam. As you walk around its sumptuous
rooms you might even run into one of the Van Loons. QOpen
11:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission: 7.
Onl y in Amsterdam
NEW
Amsterdam Tattoo Museum J-6, Plantage Midden-
laan 62, tel. (+31) 207 00 93 20, info@amsterdamtat-
toomuseum.com, www.amsterdamtattoomuseum.com.
Even if you don't have any ink of your own a visit to the world's
largest body art museum will be time well spent. Opened
at the end of 2011 in two historic buildings, this fascinating
museum displays over 6000 items, which have been collected
from around the globe bringing this millennia-old art form to
life in vivid colour. All kinds of interesting and bizarre parapher-
nalia, such as a piece of skin in formaldehyde, were compiled
over the years by Dutch tattoo king Henk Schiffmacher. These
intriguing artefacts that have been amassed over the course
of his life have finall y been given a permanent home, so if
you're interested in the lifestyle, the designs or are looking
for something to put on your own body, by all means drop by
and peruse the exhibits or the comprehensive digital archive
of tattoos. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Admission: adul ts 10,
children under 12 5. TAULBK
Erotic Museum Amsterdam B-1, Oudezijds Achter-
burgwal 54, www.erotisch-museum.nl. If you're already
exploring Europe's number one Red Light district then you
might as well visit this interesting museum that's not nearl y
as tacky as it seems. Inside you can view ancient Chinese
artefacts depicting sex acts, lusty gods and goddesses get-
ting busy on Greek pottery and horny lovers on old Japanese
silk paintings. You'll no doubt also be as shocked as we were
to encounter Le Pulsoconn - a mechanical vibrator from the
1880s that no one in their right mind would want to use
anywhere near their genitals. Erotic cartoons of Snow White
getting to know her dwarfs intimatel y and old pornography
are also on offer. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 02:00. Admission: 7.
The Hash, Marihuana & Hemp Museum B-2, Ou-
dezijds Achterburgwal 148, tel. (+31) 206 24 89 26,
hashmuseum.com. This fascinating museum is currentl y
being renovated, so you have to walk a few doors down to
view a temporary exhibition that includes some of the best
objects from its collection which will be on display until the
museum reopens at the end of the summer. Discover the
long history of hemp and its many practical uses throughout
the ages as sails, riggings and ropes on Phoenecian ships as
earl y as 400BC and as canvases and oil paints for Dutch old
masters as well as for more mundane things like clothes and
paper. Naturally, the exhibition also traces the evolution of the
plant as a popular drug, but many of the exhibits focus on the
modern uses of hemp as fireproof insulation, construction
materials and even as door panels for BMWs. QOpen 10:00
- 23:00. Admission: adul ts 9, children free.
Venus Temple Sex Museum (Sexmuseum Venus-
tempel) A-1, Damrak 18, tel. (+31) 206 22 83 76,
www.sexmuseumamsterdam.nl. I f, like most visi tors,
you arri ved at the Central Station and walked down the
crowded Damrak you no doubt noticed the Venus Temple,
which is a bi t tacky but also a classic Amsterdam attrac-
tion on four floors and a bargain at onl y 4. You can take a
look at ancient erotic woodcarvings from Indian temples,
scrimshaw dildos and 18th-century silk paintings of sexual
acts from China and Japan. You'll also see mannequins of
flashers and prosti tutes, old porno films and some provoca-
ti ve black and whi te photographs, including a 100-year-old
image of a woman wi th a gas mask, strap-on and whip that
proves that the human race has al ways been perverted.
QOpen 09:30 - 23:30. Admission: 4; entrance from16
years of age.
Hotel Amrath in winter Amsterdam Toerisme &
54
WHAT TO SEE
WHAT TO SEE
Outside Amsterdam
CoBrA Museum Sandbergplein 1, Amstelveen, tel.
(+31) 205 47 50 50, wwww.cobra-museum.nl. Fantasy
animals and weird creatures are just some of the subjects
that CoBrA (an acronym for Copenhagen, Brussels and
Amsterdam) artists used in their work. They drew their in-
spiration from a wide variety of sources including mythology,
children's drawings, folklore, ancient history, primi ti ve art,
Asian calligraphy and art by the mentall y disabled. Al though
the movement was short lived (1948 - 1951) its prolific ad-
herents left enough work in their wake to fill this beautifull y
designed museum. Painters, sculptors, poets, photographers
and filmmakers were all drawn to CoBrA's goals. They rebelled
against the orthodoxy of the art academies and attempted
to create art without borders. The museum features works
by Holland's most famous CoBrA masters - Constant, Cor-
neille and Karel Appel. QOpen 11.00 - 17.00. Closed Mon.
Admission: adul ts 9.50, children 5, children under 5 free.
TAULGK
Louwman Museum Leidsestraatweg 57, Den Haag,
tel. (+31) 703 04 73 73, www.louwmanmuseum.nl. The
Louwman Museum is home to the world's oldest private col-
lection of motor cars and dates back to 1934. It now houses
over 230 antique and classic vehicles from the taxi featured
in The Godfather to the Aston Martin used by James Bond in
Goldfinger. Cars owned by celebrities like El vis Presley, Steve
McQueen and Sir Winston Churchill are also on display and
experts regard the collection as one of the best in the world.
The collection is housed in a speciall y buil t museum in The
Hague that blends in gracefull y wi th i ts historic surround-
ings. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: adul ts
13.50, children 6 - 12 years 7.50. TAUL
Parks & Gardens
Artis Zoo I-5, Plantage Kerklaan 38 - 40, tel. (+31)
90 02 78 47 96, www.artis.nl. Founded in 1838, Artis is
the oldest zoo in the Netherlands and home to roughl y 700
species of fauna and 200 species of flora. The sprawling
park not onl y offers a huge collection of exotic animals from
near and far, but also an impressi ve aquarium as well as
two museums dedicated to geology and zoology. Many of
the strange beasts that inhabit the zoo live outdoors so you
can see camels lounging in the sand or Japanese macaques
jumping about. Walk past lions, elephants, buffalo and giraffes
in their enclosures or head over to the top-notch reptile house
to see pythons, giant tortoises and crocodiles or all manner
of creepy-crawlies in the Insect House. You can also view noc-
turnal creatures in the Jungle by Night exhibit, Chimpanzees in
the monkey house and strange forms of life from the planet's
oceans in the aquarium. Two cafs and a large children's play-
ground are also available. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Admission:
adul ts 18.95, children 3 - 9 years 15.50. AK
Hortus Botanical Gardens (Hortus Botanicus
Amsterdam) H-5, Plantage Middenlaan 2a, tel. (+31)
206 25 90 21, www.dehortus.nl. Located in the quiet
neighbourhood of the Plantage, the Hortus Botanical Garden
has been fascinating naturalists, botanists and fans of beauty
for over 300 years making it one of the oldest such gardens
in the world. Al though onl y a little over one hectare in size,
Hortus boasts over 4,000 species of plants from around
the globe throughout its gardens and greenhouses, nearl y
all of which are open to the public. You can wander around
the grounds and view beautiful flowers, carnivorous florae,
a rare Australian pine thought extinct until 1994 and even
a redwood tree, which, if allowed to grow on its own, might
just change the city's skyline in a few generations. You can
also walk through the tropical and desert greenhouses, but
don't miss the butterfl y house. You can also buy plants at its
shop or have lunch at its caf that hosts live jazz on Sundays
in summer. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Admission: adul ts 7.50, children 5 - 14 years 3.50, children
4 and under free. K
Places of interest
Brewers' Canal (Brouwers-
gracht) F-8, Between the Singel
and Lijnbaansgracht. Al though
Amsterdam has no shor tage of
picturesque canals, this beauti ful
waterway is one of the city's pret-
tiest and in our opinion outshines
other scenic stretches such as the
Golden Bend. The Brewers' Canal
began its existence in the 17th century but earned its name
hundreds of years later when many beer brewers chose to
set up shop on the canal. Unlike the busy canals in the centre,
the atmosphere here is laid back and relaxed. Most of the
tiny little houses along the way have brightly painted shutters
and the canal is covered in small bridges.
Flower Market (Bloemenmarkt) A/B-3, Singel (Be-
tween Koningsplein and Muntplein). The Flower Market is
a tourist attraction and a functioning market in one. Al though
it's often called the world's onl y floating flower market, most
of the browsing takes place on dry land as the stalls are
located on barges moored on the Singel and al though it's
quite attractive when walking past, it's actuall y a bit of an
eyesore when viewed from the other side of the canal. You can
buy bulbs and seeds for all kinds of plants and flowers and
we have to admit that we've also picked up a Venus fl ytrap
kit here, which was a huge hit with kids at home. The sellers
will also send bulbs to your home address abroad and they
know which countries don't allow the importation of plant
materials, so you don't have to worry about having your pur-
chase confiscated at customs. Locals also buy flowers here
so the prices are actuall y quite reasonable. There are plenty
of cafs and souvenir shops opposite the market. QOpen
09:00 - 17:30, Sun 11:00 - 17:30. A
Golden Bend (Gouden Bocht) B-3, Herengracht
between Leidsestraat and Vijzelstraat. This stretch of
the Herengracht is famous for its grand manor houses that
came into existence when Amsterdam's ber-weal thy buil t
their dream homes here during the Dutch Golden Age in the
17th century. Al though it figures prominentl y in city guides of
all stripes, the buildings are actuall y on the boring side and
lack the narrow dimensions and cosiness that most people
associate with the capital's architecture. You'll probabl y walk
by on your way to lots of local museums anyway, but other-
wise you can give it a pass unless you need to hire one of the
prominent law firms that have their offices here.
It's al ways warm at the Hortus Botanical Gardens MZ
WHAT TO SEE
55
WHAT TO SEE
Sightseeing tours
Amsterdam Helicoptertours Siriusstraat 148, Hoorn,
tel. (+31) 229 85 01 51, www.amsterdamhelicopters.
com. You can take an ordinary boat tour of Amsterdam's
canals or you can go wild and fl y over the 7,000 buildings of
Europe's biggest historical district. Amsterdam heliport is
located at a 10-minute drive from the city centre.
Keytours Excursions E-8, Paulus Potterstraat 8, tel.
(+31) 203 05 53 33, www.keytours.nl. This company
organises more tours than there are tourists in Amsterdam.
Some sound a bit tacky like the Pizza Cruise or Candlelight
Cruise, but this is one of the better options in town if you don't
have a lot of time and you'd like to save some cash. QOpen
08:30 - 17:00. JA
World of Ajax Tours ArenA Boulevard 1, tel. (+31) 203
11 13 33, www.amsterdamarena.nl. All you need to know
about the world famous football legend Ajax will be revealed
in this one-hour tour. Visit the press room, the stands, the
players' relaxation room and other not to be missed sights
at the Arena. Q Tours at 11:00, 12:30, 14:30 & 16:30.
Admission: 12. Opening hours and tour times are subject
to change on and around match days. TAL
Canal tours
Amsterdam Canal Cruises G-8, Stadhouderskade
550, tel. (+31) 206 26 56 36, www.amsterdam-
canalcruises.nl. This company has been giving tours of the
Amsterdam canals for over 40 years. Its six boats depart from
the landing opposite the Heineken Experience..
Blue Boat Company F-8, Stadhouderskade 30, tel.
(+31) 206 79 13 70, www.blueboat.nl. If you'd prefer a
relaxing canal tour then book a lunch or dinner cruise, but if
you're searching for something a little different try a cabaret,
casino or wedding tour. Tours last either 75, 90 or 120 min-
utes. Q (7 - 15). A
Canal Bus E-5, Weteringschans 26-1hg, tel. (+31) 206
26 55 74, info@canal.nl, www.canal.nl. Canal bus offers a
huge network of comfortable canal boats that take passen-
gers on four different routes with 20 stops. The boats pass
by some of the city's best attractions and museums, which
is why you can buy a day-pass or a 48-hour ticket so you can
hop on and off and see all of the sights that interest you. Stops
include the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum as well
as the Anne Frank House and the Hermitage among other
destinations. Canal bus also offers night cruises and theme
cruises with dinner, candlelight and cocktails. Q A
Statues & Monuments
De Populair C-4, Westerpark, www.depopulair.nl. The
Westerpark is home to many trees, but De Populair is the only
interactive one. Fed by solar energy, this metal tree made en-
tirely of sustainable materials can be used to recharge mobile
devices and it's also a wi-fi hotspot. It can even receive and
speak tweets. If you'd like to hear the tree talk, just send a
message to it @depopulair.nl.
National Monument A-2, Dam. The brainchil d of
renowned Dutch architect J.J.P. Oud (1890 - 1963), the Na-
tional Monument made of white travertine was unveiled in
1956 as both a memorial to all Dutch men and women who
suffered under the Nazi occupation of the Netherlands and
to the nation's liberation. A number of statues and reliefs
symbolise the resistance expressed by all members of
society from labourers to the intelligentsia and the lions on
either side represent the Dutch nation. The giant pillar rises
to a height of 22m.
Rembrandt Statue B-3, Rembrandtplein. Rembrandt
van Rijn (1606 - 1669) is considered to be one of the greatest
painters in Dutch history and King William III had the honour of
unveiling Amsterdam's oldest statue in 1852. But that's not
the end of the story. Over the next decade at least 10 more
statues will be erected along the route that the illustrious
painter used to walk from his house in Amsterdam to to the
outskirts of the city where he searched for inspiration. Each
statue will represent a certain period of his life. A young Rem-
brandt, opposite the Amstel Hotel, is the first of these new
statues. Statues of Rembrandt can also be found at molen at
Amstel at the end of Amstelpark and Professor Tulpplein.
Golden Bend on a cloudy day Amsterdam Toerisme &
Holland is a small but den-
sel y populated country
which means that youre
usuall y never far away
from essential facilities
such as toilets. But peo-
ple who want to catch a
train with a full bladder
should think twice becau-
se the popular Sprinter
trains no longer offer toi-
lets. Dutch National Railways (NS) have removed
all of the toilets from these trains due to spending
cuts, so if you have to go badly, youd better relieve
yourself beforehand. However, in an emergency
you can walk with the ticket collector to his booth
and urinate in a so-called wee bag whose name
has nothing to do with its size. The uniformed con-
ductor is also supplied with special womens bags.
The environmentally friendly and portable urinals
are discarded by the personnel after use. But be
careful as theres no water available to wash your
hands if you make a mess. Unfortunately, if you
have more pressing business to attend to youre
out of luck. Watch this space for information about
the first lawsuit involving a loose-boweled busine-
ssman trying to recoup dry cleaning expenses for
his soiled Hugo Boss suit.
Wee bag
56
GETTING AROUND
GETTING AROUND
Amsterdam is a wonderfully walkable city and many of its
major sights are located in or near the city centre. Public
transportation is excellent and we don't recommend driving
within the ring of canals. Naturally, cycling is the preferred
Dutch method of travel and some would say it's the only way
to truly experience the city.
GVB (www.gvb.nl) is Amsterdam's public transportation
company and it provides integrated metro, tram and bus
service throughout the city and its surrounding areas. Since
2010 a comprehensive OV-chipcard ticket system allows you
to travel on the metro, trams, buses and even trains using
just one card. There are a variety of OV-chipcard options and
you can upload them with travel credits at special machines
located at stations and even in most supermarkets. You can
purchase OV-chipcards for 24, 48, 72, 96, 120, 144 and 168
hours, which afford you unlimited travel on all trams, buses,
metros and night buses and an economical way to explore
the city. A one-hour OV card can be purchased onboard from
GVB drivers and conductors, but a premium is charged for
this ticket. It costs 2.60 for one hour of unlimited travel on
different buses and trains in the city that begins once you
board your selected mode of transportation and check in
by placing it next to the scanners near the doors. You must
also scan your card when leaving the vehicle.
If it isn't your first trip to Amsterdam bear in mind that
the old strippenkaart tickets are no longer valid for travel.
Although the new system may sound complicated it really
isn't. That said, if you'd prefer to rent a bike, scooter or maybe
even a car, then read on.
Bicycle rental
There are many ways to see Amsterdam and its surround-
ings but our favourite option is to hire a set of wheels. All
told, Amsterdam commuters cycle more than 2,000,000km
every day!
Black Bikes F-9, Lijnbaansgracht 282, tel. (+31) 206
70 85 31, www.black-bikes.com. A full day bike rental will
set you back onl y 10 and it has the longest opening hours
in the city. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00.
Also at Eerste Constantijn Huygensstraat 88; Tweede Helm-
ersstraat 49; Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 146. TJA
Cyclelution A-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 258, tel.
(+31) 653 63 19 73, www.cyclelution.nl. Although it's one
of the smaller companies in town, it's definitely reliable. Offers
bike rental, repairs and bikes for sale. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Prices: from only 2 hours for 7 to a whole week for 49.
Holland Rent a Bike A-2, Damrak 247, tel. (+31) 206
22 32 07. Al though the name may not be the most original,
this company's service is outstanding. It rents and repairs
bikes, steps and scooters. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00
- 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. JA
Mac Bike H-5, Waterlooplein 199, tel. (+31) 204 28
70 05, www.macbike.nl. For more than two decades Mac
Bike has been been renting bikes to Amsterdam's tourists
and with four locations around town, it's handy too. It also
sells and repairs bicycles and offers tours of the city. For 2
euros you can also buy an art-based map. The goal of the
map is to offer a few hours of an enjoyable bike ride in an
insightful and appealing way. The attention is focused on
art in public spaces, sightseeing and architectural artwork.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:45. Also at F/G-3, Stationsplein 5; F-8,
Weteringschans 2; D-8, Marnixstraat 220.
Mike's Bike Rental Shop G-7, Kerkstraat 134, tel. (+31)
206 22 79 70, www.mikesbiketoursamsterdam.com.
Mike's Bikes is famous all over Europe for its sightseeing tours,
but we recommend its beach cruisers with special tires that
hardly ever go flat. Each bike also comes with two locks, which
isn't a bad idea in Amsterdam where bike theft is as common as
dope smoke. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. (5 - 15). JA
Recycled Rentals A-2, Spuistraat 84a, tel. (+31) 654
68 14 29, www.recycledrentals.com. This company
claims to have the cheapest bike rental in town and at onl y
5/day, it might be right.
Rent a Bike A-2, Damstraat 20 - 22, tel. (+31) 206
25 50 29, www.bikes.nl. Hire bikes with hand brakes or
the old fashioned back-pedal ones that don't include rental
company signs so you don't look like a sill y tourist. Each bike
has two locks, a necessary luxury in a city of bike thieves.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Prices: from 3 hours for 6.50 to a
full day for 9.50. TJA
Rent a Dutch bike E-8, Overtoom 45, tel. (+31) 206
83 33 69, www.dutchbikeamsterdam.nl. This place has
everything from bikes and scooters to tandem, cargo or kids'
bikes. Deposit and ID required. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Also
at Reguliers Dwarsstraat 97. J
Star Bike G-4, De Ruyterkade 127, tel. (+31) 206
20 32 15, www.starbikesrental.om. Blend in perfectl y
wi th the locals on a tradi tional Dutch Sparta 'black bike'.
They even include picnic baskets! QOpen 08:00 - 19:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Prices: hal f a day for 5, full day
for 7. JA
Yellow Bike A-1, Nieuwezijds Kolk 29, tel. (+31) 206 20
69 40, www.yellowbike.nl. For the bicycle rental are 800
yellow bikes available. Q Also at Oudezijds Armsteeg 22.
Buses
City buses are primarily used to reach outlying suburbs or
as a final option once the trams have stopped running. Night
buses operate from midnight until 07:00 with routes connect-
ing Central Station, Rembrandtplein and Leidseplein.
Car rental
Avis Schiphol Airport (Aankomstpassage 5), tel. (+31)
206 55 60 50, www.avis.nl. Cars are di vided in small,
medium and large categories and are available from 40/day.
QOpen 06:30 - 23:30. Also at E-8, Nassaukade 380. A
Europcar Schiphol Airport (Aankomstpassage 10), tel.
(+31) 203 16 41 90, fax (+31) 206 04 14 39, amster-
dam.airport@europcar.nl, www.europcar.com. Cars from
40/day. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00.
Also at E-9, Overtoom 197. A
Hertz D-10, Overtoom 333, tel. (+31) 206 12 24 41,
www.hertz.nl. Hertz, one of the biggest Dutch car rental
companies, offer short and long rental cars and vans.
Sixt Rent a car F-5, Prins Hendrikkade 20a, tel. (+31)
206 24 29 55, www.sixt.nl. Straight opposi te Central
Station this company rents all kind of cars and vans. Also
at Schiphol Airport and other Amsterdam locations. Q
From 33 a day.
Canal bathed in winter light Amsterdam Toerisme &
GETTING AROUND
57
GETTING AROUND
Ferries
Most Amsterdam ferries are available behind the Central
Station and connect the city centre with Amsterdam-Noord
on the other side of the River IJ. In total there are six ferry
lines which transport pedestrians, bicycles and sometimes
mopeds. Most of the lines are free with the exception of the
Javaveer (Java ferry). A single crossing costs only 1 though
and children under the age of six, dogs, buggies and bicycles
can cross free of charge.
Metro
The metro is fast and efficient. It's a combination of under-
ground subway and light rail on the surface (sneltram). Only
some 3.5km between Central Station and Amstel in the city
centre are beneath the ground. The four metro lines all depart
from Central Station and head out to their final destinations
at Westwijk, Gein, Gaasperplas and Isolatorweg. A new line
to Noord will be added in the future, hence all of the construc-
tion around town.
Trains
Train travel in the Netherlands is the really the best option for
getting around and there are three types of trains available.
The High-Speed line covers larger distances quickly, which
is ideal when travelling to Germany, Great Britain or Belgium,
while the Stoptrein, not surprisingly, makes frequent stops
between bigger cities. Finally, the Intercity offers fast connec-
tions between Dutch cities. Most of the stations are centrally
located. You can easily find all train departures as well as
ticket price information at www.ns.nl. The yellow timetables
in the station show departure times and platform numbers.
The route is shown at the top of each board.
Tickets come in many forms. You have plenty of choices
varying from singles and day returns, a weekend return or
a day travel card. There are NS ticket machines at every
station. You can pay cash or use a Maestro PIN at the NS
Tickets & Service desk at major stations and the
machines at Schiphol Airport and Amsterdam Central also
accept credit cards.
Trams
Amsterdammers love their trams and you should, too! They
provide the best way of getting around the city and run from
06:00 - 00:30. You shouldn't have to wait longer than 10
minutes at any tram stop. One-hour tickets for journeys
across the city can be bought from newsagents or tram
drivers. They cost 2.60, but if you plan on travelling a lot
you're better off purchasing a 24-hour ticket for 7. You
have to touch the scanner near the doors of the tram when
entering and exiting the vehicle.
Taxis
You don't have to search far if you want to travel by taxi in
Amsterdam. About 3500 taxis are active in the city. These
taxis can be hailed on the street or found at one of more than
50 official taxi ranks. The ranks, identifiable by blue boards,
can be found near tourist attractions such as the Dam,
Leidesplein and Rembrandtplein. In addition to hailing taxis
on the road, it's also possible to order a taxi by phone.
Each taxi in Amsterdam must have a taxi meter on board.
When a journey is charged with the taxi meter running, the
customer pays a fixed flag-down rate, which includes the
first 2km of the journey. The flag-down rate is a maximum of
7.86. After the first 2kms, a price per kilometre is charged
of a maximum of 2.30/km. The flag-down rate for a minibus
is a maximum of 12.78 and includes the first 2km. After
that, a maximum distance-based rate of 2.64/km applies.
A minibus can transport five or more people. Taxi drivers
can set the flag-down and kilometre rates themselves up to
the maximum price shown. The taxi meter does not charge
anything for being delayed in traffic or a queue. The rates the
taxi driver uses are shown on the fare card, which is visible
on the taxi from outside. Taxi passengers are advised to
check that the taxi meter is running as they set off and that
the correct flag-down rate, not higher than 7.86, is shown
on the meter.
Connexxion Cateringweg 12, Schiphol, tel. (+31) 883
39 47 41, www.schipholhotelshuttle.nl. Connexxion
is the biggest passenger transportation company in the
Netherlands and has fixed prices from Schiphol Airport to
Amsterdam from 32 - 42. You can also book a shared taxi
ride on a minibus to one of 110 selected hotels in Amsterdam
for 15.50. Tickets are available at platform A7 or at the Con-
nexxion Desk in Arrivals 4. QOpen 06:00 - 21:00.
Fietstaxi Amsterdam H-6, Rapenburgerstraat 155,
tel. (+31) 611 52 99 67, info@fietstaxiamsterdam.nl,
http://fietstaxiamsterdam.nl. I t's actuall y the fastest
way of getting around the ci ty centre, but don't expect a
cheap ride as it's also the most expensive way of travelling
in Amsterdam. Believe it or not you have to order the taxi 24
hours in advance. Q Prices: 0.90/minute.
TCA Taxi Tel. (+31) 207 77 77 77, www.tcataxi.nl.
This 24-hour taxi company has stands at the Central Station,
Leidseplein, Stopera City Hall, Westermarkt, Frederiksplein
and Haarlemmerplein, but you can also call them and order
a cab any time of the day or night. Drivers are safe and reli-
able. Q Open 24hrs.
Watertaxi F-5, Stationsplein 8, tel. (+31) 205 35 63
63, fax (+31) 205 35 63 69, info@water-taxi.nl, www.
water-taxi.nl. Water taxis can pick you up and drop you off at
virtuall y any waterside address throughout Amsterdam and
its environs including the smallest of Amsterdam canals. Q
Prices: 1.75/minute. Maximum 8 people.
58
SHOPPING
SHOPPING
Van Gogh is everywhere in Amsterdam Lya Cattel
Amsterdam has it all as far as shopping is concerned from
the big brands to hip little boutiques. For standard interna-
tional fashion like H&M and Footlocker take a stroll down
the pedestrian Kalverstraat. If you can afford such names
as Vuitton, Bulgari and Chanel then drive your Ferrari over
to P.C. Hooftsraat in the Museum Quarter. Antique lovers will
find a whole street lined with shops selling old maps, books,
Delft tiles, furniture and art at Nieuwe Spiegelstraat leading
up to the Rijksmuseum and shoppers who prefer small, yet
trendy boutiques, family-run delicatessens and a generally
fun street devoid of international chains should walk the
length of the Haarlemmerstraat and Haarlemmerdijk. You
can also find all kinds of interesting exotic sauces, spices
and kitchenware in Chinatown near the Nieuwmarkt and
funky interior design elements on Overtoom.
Alcohol & Beer shops
Cracked Kettle A-3, Raamsteeg 3, tel. (+31) 206 24
07 45, www.crackedkettle.com. This cosy shop that's
decorated in rustic fashion offers a great variety of boutique
wines and special ty beers. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. A
De Bierkoning A-2, Paleisstraat 125, tel. (+31) 206
25 23 36, www.bierkoning.nl. With roughl y 1100 beers
from Europe and the States available on the premises,
this brew shop is probabl y the best stocked of its genre in
Amsterdam. It also sells some cider and loads of souvenir
beer glasses. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Mon 13:00 - 19:00,
Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. A
Gall & Gall A-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 226A, tel.
(+31) 204 21 83 70, www.gall.nl. A large chain of top-
notch shops selling premium wines and spiri ts. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Also at Utrechtsestraat
67, tel. (+31) 206 23 62 96. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Mon 11:00 -
19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00; and at many other locations. A
Antiques & Art
Antiquariaat Brinkman A-3, Singel 319, tel. (+31)
206 23 83 53, www.antiquariaatbrinkman.nl. Antique
books on all subjects and some maps as well. QOpen 10:00
- 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A
Antiquariaat Lont E-4, Herenstraat 39, tel. (+31) 206
26 39 82, www.antiquariaat-lont.nl. Owner Marieke Lont
specialises in antique books, posters and postcards. QOpen
11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A
Antiquarian Hoogkamp G-8, Spiegelgracht 27, tel.
(+31) 206 25 88 52, www.prenten.net. An excellent
selection of antique prints, maps, ci tyscapes and botani-
cals from the 16th - 20th centuries. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.
Eduard van Dishoeck A-3, Raamsteeg 1, tel. (+31)
206 24 71 90, www.eduardvandishoeck.com. Great
selection of antique maps, naval charts, town views, en-
gravings and books. QOpen 11:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon,
Sat, Sun. A
E.H. Arins Kappers F-7, Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 32,
tel. (+31) 206 23 53 56, www.masterprints.nl. Antique
prints and maps of Amsterdam and other cities and coun-
tries around the world as well as postcards and Japanese
wood block prints from the 18th - 20th centuries. QOpen
closed, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,
Sun. A
Kramer Kunst & Antiek G-7, Prinsengracht 807, tel.
(+31) 206 26 11 16, www.antique-tileshop.nl. Old delft-
ware tiles, vases and other antiques including jewellery and
glassware. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Silkwood Antiques F-8, Spiegelgracht 30, tel. (+31)
653 86 22 70. Delft tiles, fabric, paintings, jewellery, prints
and furniture. QOpen 12:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Sun.
Bags, purses & Luggage
Bonnier E-3, Haarlemmerstraat 58, tel. (+31) 206 26
49 91. At Bonnier you can expect a wide assortment of bags,
purses, backpacks and Samsonite luggage sold by a friendl y
husband and wife team. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00, Sat 10:30
- 17:00. Closed Sun. A
Mono Amsterdam F-4, Haarlemmerstraat 16, tel.
(+31) 204 21 50 78, www.mono-amsterdam.com. Unique
and stylish purses, bags, wallets and accessories. QOpen
10:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A
Smaak E-5, Prinsenstraat 16, tel. (+31) 203 08 00 90,
www.smaakamsterdam.com. Take a look at expensive, but
stylish leather bags as well as handmade jewellery, dresses and
other female fashion accessories. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Mon,
Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Also at Berenstraat 39. JA
Books
The American Book Center A-3, Spui 12, tel. (+31)
206 25 55 37, www.abc.nl. Book lovers could spend days
in this temple to English-language literature. Skip the coffee
table books and magazines on the ground floor and climb up
to the next two floors for novels, travel, history, sci-fi, fantasy,
political science and even manga. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,
Mon 11:00 - 20:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:30.
Closed Sun. A
Waterstone's A-3, Kalverstraat 152, tel. (+31) 206 38
38 21, www.waterstones.nl. An outstanding selection of
English language literature including books on travel, history
and poli tics not to mention contemporary fiction, classic
novels, magazines and newspapers on four floors. QOpen
09:30 - 18:30, Mon 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 09:30 - 21:00, Sat
10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. A
Cheese
Amsterdams Kaashuis A-1, Haringpakkerssteeg 10,
tel. (+31) 206 24 10 06. Although it looks like a tourist trap,
where else can you watch cheese being made in the centre
of Amsterdam? Cheese, chocolates and other souvenirs are
sold here and it's also a good place to taste cheese for free.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. A
Kaasland E-4, Haarlemmerdijk 1, tel. (+31) 206 25 79
45, www.kaasland.eu. This decades-old shop and bakery
sells more than 200 kinds of cheeses. QOpen 08:00
- 20:00, Tue, Wed 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun
09:30 - 19:00. TJAS
Kaasland Singel A-1, Haarlemmerstraat 2, tel. (+31)
204 22 17 15, www.kaasland.com. Kaasland offers a good
assortment of cheeses from near and far as well as pastries
and sweets. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Sun
10:00 - 19:00. A
SHOPPING
59
SHOPPING
Chocolates & Sweets
Jamin A-2, Kalverstraat 39, tel. (+31) 206 20 22 56,
www.jamin-kalverstraat.nl. This large chain of sweets
shops li terall y sells all kinds of sugary treats and candy
by the kilo as well as sweets featuring logos like Hello
Ki tty and Li ttlest Pet Shop for the kids. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00, Mon 12:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 18:00. A
Jordino E-3, Haarlemmerdijk 25, tel. (+31) 204 20
32 25, www.jordino.nl. FInd incredible creations made
by master chocolatiers from chocolate truffles and molded
animals to high-heeled shoes and even mini-Louis Vui ton
purses made of chocolate. A wide range of ice cream, gelato
and sherbet are also on offer. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Mon,
Sun 13:00 - 19:00.
Vanderdonk Fine Chocolates G-7, Nieuwe Spiegel-
straat 72, tel. (+31) 206 20 27 77, www.vanderdonk-
chocolates.nl. Exclusive high end cocoa products, ice cream
and even beer and wine that tastes like chocolate. Also sells
organic, fair trade chocolates. QOpen 10:30 - 18:30, Sat
10:30 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:30. A
Delftware
Jorrit Heinen Delft Shop E-6, Prinsengracht 440, tel.
(+31) 206 27 82 99, www.jorritheinen.com. An official
dealer of Royal Delft porcelain from cutesy souvenirs and
tiles to upmarket vases and flatware. It also has an outlet in
the historic Munttoren (Mint Tower). QOpen 09:30 - 18:00,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Also at Muntplein 12, tel. (+31) 206 23
22 71. A
Rinascimento Delf tware E-5, Prinsengracht 170,
tel. (+31) 206 22 75 09, www.delft-art-gallery.com.
Across the canal from the Westerkerk, this official Delftware
factory dealer sells everything from plates, tiles and vases
to beauti ful Christmas ornaments - the perfect souvenir.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A
Delicatessens & Food
Delicious Food E-4, Westerstraat 24, tel. (+31) 203 20
30 70, www.deliciousfood.nl. Delicious Food specialises in
dried fruits and nuts, gourmet pasta and organic grains and
cereals as well as organic juice, wine and beer. Some sweets
and chocolates are also available. QOpen 10:00 - 18:30,
Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
De Wijnbergh E-3, Haarlemmerdijk 2, tel. (+31) 206
24 38 63. When was the last time you visited a delicatessen
and wine shop that boasts crystal chandeliers? Buy posh
cheeses, sausages and wine here. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,
Mon 13:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Sun. A
Eichholtz F-7, Leidsestraat 48, tel. (+31) 206 22 03
05. This delicatessen has been in operation since 1888,
but now it specialises in food products from the US and UK
for homesick Americans and Brits. Buy anything from Fruit
Loops and A&W root beer to eggnog and Aunt Jemima syrup
for inflated prices. QOpen 10:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Feduzzi Scheldestraat 63, tel. (+31) 206 64 63 65,
info@feduzzi.nl, www.feduzzi.nl. For more than three
decades this shop has been one of the best places to buy
nothing but the finest I talian ingredients. QOpen 12:30
- 19:00, Mon 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sun. AL
Toko Ramee H-9, Ferdinand Bolstraat 74, tel. (+31)
206 64 87 74, www.tokoramee.com. This shop in De Pijp
sells Indonesian and Asian food, sauces, spices and other
food related products. QOpen 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00
Department stores
de Bijenkorf A-2, Dam 1, www.debijenkorf.nl. This
posh department store on Dam Square offers two cafes, a
restaurant, men and women's fashion, homewares and lots
of other upmarket shopping on six floors. The place to go for
the expensive brands like Vuitton, Fendi and Hermes. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 19:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00,
Sat 09:30 - 19:00. AK
Magna Plaza A-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 182, www.
magnaplaza.nl. Situated in the former central post office
building just behind the Dam Square. This grand shopping
centre has many up market shops as well as well known high
street brands. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Mon 11:00 - 19:00,
Sun 12:00 - 19:00.
Erotic gear
Absolute Danny B-2, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 78, tel.
(+31) 204 21 09 15, www.absolutedanny.com. Absolute
Danny has probabl y the largest selection of rubber, leather
and other sexy fetish gear from pink thigh-high boots and cor-
sets to masks and whips. So get ready to bring out the gimp!
QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. A
Female & Partners A-2, Spuistraat 100, tel. (+31)
206 20 91 52, www.femaleandpartners.nl. Discover an
excellent assortment of sexy women's lingerie from traditional
silk and lace to leather and latex, not to mention classy sex
toys, bondage accessories and lubricants QOpen 11:00
- 18:30, Mon 13:00 - 18:30, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00
- 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. A
Mail & Female G-9, Nieuwe Vijzelstraat 2, tel. (+31)
206 23 39 16, www.mailfemale.com. Toys for boys, a
masturbation workshop, female-friendly porn and lots of erotic
items can all be found in this well-appointed shop. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. A
Fashion
Black Sheep Road E-4, Herenstraat 6, www.black-
sheeproad.com. A mix of brands you won't find in average
shops can be found here on the Herenstraat or on its website.
QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA
FunnyLifestyle H-9, Eerste Sweelinckstraat 21, tel.
(+31) 206 62.93 91, www.funnylifestyle.nl. This shop ad-
vertises that it offers 'everything that makes a woman happy'.
Buy fashion, bags, jewellery and other accessories here.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Lock, Stock & Barrel E-7, Hartenstraat 26, tel. (+31)
204 21 33 48, info@lockyourstock.nl, www.lockstock-
barrel.nl. Peruse women's and men's fashion from shoes and
hats to leather bags and jewellery. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00,
Mon, Sun 12:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 19:00. JA
Exotic shops await in Chinatown M.Zaprauskis
60
SHOPPING
SHOPPING
Gifts & Souvenirs
Heineken The City H-6, Amstelstraat 31, tel. (+31)
205 30 47 70, www.heineken.nl. A heaven for Heineken
lovers, this massive glass and steel shop on two and half
floors sells everything from typical beer souvenirs like t-shirts,
bottle openers and glasses to mini-keg coolers, giant bean
bags and even sports jackets and dresses with the famous
red star logo. Oh, and they also have a huge selection of
chilled Heineken beer. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 12:00
- 18:00. Closed Sun. A
Knuffels-Pluche-Klompenboer B-2, Sint Antonies-
breestraat 39 - 51, tel. (+31) 204 27 38 62, www.
knuffels.com. Like the Dutch name suggests, this place sells
toys, gadgets and traditional wooden shoes. The latter are
made in the shop's own factory. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. A
Head & Smart shops
Hempshopper A-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 80, tel.
(+31) 205 28 55 56, www.hempshopper.com. This shop
specialises in seeds, hemp clothing and accessories as
well as some practical purchases like vaporisers and bongs.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. A
Kokopelli B-2, Warmoesstraat 12, tel. (+31) 204 21
70 00, www.kokopelli.nl. If you're looking for entheogenics
(otherwise known as psychoactive substances), herbal e's
(also known as natural stimulants), seeds, vitamins, smart
products, books and plenty of souvenirs, Kokopelli won't let
you down. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00.
Kids' stuff
Tinker Bell F-8, Spiegelgracht 10, tel. (+31) 206 25
88 30, www.tinkerbelltoys.nl. All kinds of interesting
learning toys including safe science experiments for older
children. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 13:00 - 18:00, Sun
12:00 - 17:00. A
Markets
Albert Cuyp Market (Albert Cuypmarkt) H-9,
Albert Cuypstraat, www.albertcuypmarkt.com. This
vibrant dail y market located in the bohemian De Pijp district
is chock full of stands selling clothing, jewellery, fresh seafood
like crab and lobster, flowers, lingerie, souvenirs, fresh fruit,
hand bags, shoes, cheese and many more things you can't
do without as wells as plenty of food stalls. QOpen 09:00
De Bazaar Montageweg 35, Beverwijk, tel. (+31) 202
51 26 26 26, www.debazaar.nl. For over 30 years this
has been the largest covered market in Europe. With over
2,500 shops and stalls the huge bazaar consists of several
sections selling everything imaginable. QOpen Sat, Sun
08:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri. Admission:
2.25, children under 12 free. TUL
Flower Market (Bloemenmarkt) A/B-3, Singel (Be-
tween Koningsplein and Muntplein). The Flower Market is
a tourist attraction and a functioning market in one. Al though
it's often called the world's onl y floating flower market, most
of the browsing takes place on dry land as the stalls are
located on barges moored on the Singel and al though it's
quite attractive when walking past, it's actuall y a bit of an
eyesore when viewed from the other side of the canal. You can
buy bulbs and seeds for all kinds of plants and flowers and
we have to admit that we've also picked up a Venus fl ytrap
kit here, which was a huge hit with kids at home. Locals also
buy flowers here so the prices are actuall y quite reasonable.
There are plenty of cafs and souvenir shops opposite the
market. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 11:00 - 17:30.
Music shops
Concerto H-7, Utrechtsestraat 52 - 60, tel. (+31) 206
23 52 28, www.concertomania.nl. Possibly the city's, and
perhaps the nation's largest collection of new and used CDs,
DVDs and vinyl spread out across five buildings: one for clas-
sical, another for world music and jazz, one for pop/rock, one
dedicated to dance music and yet another to vinyl and used
CDs. Amazing! QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00,
Sun 12:00 - 18:00. A
Independent Outlet G-7, Vijzelstraat 77, tel. (+31) 204
21 20 96, www.outlet.nl. Al though this shop specialises
in skateboards and related fashion and accessories, it also
has a great selection of punk and hardcore music on vinyl
from 7 Seconds and The Misfits to Bad Brains and Sick of
It All. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Mon, Sun 13:00 - 18:00, Thu
11:00 - 21:00. A
Record Mania G-9, Ferdinand Bolstraat 30, tel. (+31)
206 20 99 12, www.recordmania.nl. Record Mania has
a great collection of vinyl from old blues and punk records to
soul and funk. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00.
Speciality shops
2theloo A-2, Kalverstraat 126, tel. (+31) 204 20 28
33, www.2theloo.com. For 1 you'll get modern, clean
toilets with some artwork, not to mention a shop that sells
loo related products from toilet training books to tampons.
QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Mon 12:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:30
- 21:00, Sun 11:30 - 18:30.
Condomerie Het Gulden Vlies A-2, Warmoesstraat
141, tel. (+31) 206 27 41 75, www.condomerie.com.
I t claims to be the world's first specialised condom shop
and we're inclined to believe them. If it's got anything to do
with prophylactics, this place has it. You can also buy wider,
snugger or longer rubbers depending on your length and girth.
QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A
Dom A-3, Spuistraat 281A, tel. (+31) 204 28 55 44,
www.dom-shop.com. Visiting one of the outlets of this funky,
German chain of design and accessories shops is like going
to a disco where you can buy all kinds of clever, cool stuff that
you definitely don't need but absolutely have to have. QOpen
11:00 - 20:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00.
Galerie de Stoker Witte de Withstraat 124, www.
insectenhuisjes.nl. Thanks to Bastiaan Meijer there are
nearl y 100 insect villages in the Netherlands. Watch your
favourite insect on a miniature pyramid, church or a farm on
his website. Prices for bug houses start at 55.
Games Workshop A-2, Rokin 36, tel. (+31) 206 22 38
63, www.games-workshop.com. Adventure board games,
books and hobby and modelling supplies can all be found
here not to mention Lord of the Rings accessories. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00, Mon 12:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sun
12:00 - 17:00. A
Jacob Hooy & Co B-2, Kloveniersburgwal 12, tel. (+31)
206 24 30 41, www.jacob-hooy.com. Al though this shop
now specialises in vitamins, supplements and heal th food,
Jacob Hooy & Co began its existence at this address as a
pharmacy in 1743 and i ts beautiful antique interior looks
much as it did back then. It's worth a visit for this reason
alone! QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 13:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 17:00.
Lomography Gallery Store F-7, Herengracht 298, tel.
(+31) 204 20 59 02, store.amsterdam@lomography.
com, www.lomography.nl. You know those li ttle plastic
Diana photo cameras that were suddenl y all the rage among
the young and creative about five years ago? You no longer
have to scour the internet to find them. Hipsters and photo
fans, this is your stop. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon, Sun
12:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. JA
SHOPPING
61
SHOPPING
Muzikat A-2, St. Antoniesbreestraat 3-G, tel. (+31)
203 20 03 86, www.muzikatmusicbooks.com. If you're
into music from the blues and classic rock to reggae, punk
and al ternative, then you'll love this shop that specialises in
books, original rock magazines from the 1960s and 1970s,
authentic tour posters, photographs of famous bands and
other music memorabilia. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Oriental Co. B-2, Nieuwmarkt 27, tel. (+31) 206 26
27 97, www.amazingoriental.com. This huge Chinese
supermarket looks chaotic and even a bit rundown, but it has
everything from noodles and sauces to fresh produce and
frozen goods like prawn dim-sum. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,
Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A
P.G.C. Hajenius A-3, Rokin 96, tel. (+31) 206 23 74
94, www.hajenius.com. It claims to have the best selection
of cigars in Amsterdam and after seeing the lovel y Art Deco
interior and all it has to offer, they'll get no argument from us.
An elegant smoking lounge is also available. QOpen 09:30
- 18:00, Mon 12:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. A
Space Oddity E-6, Prinsengracht 204, tel. (+31) 204
27 40 36, www.spaceoddity.nl. This is the place for film
and TV action figures and collectibles from the Twilight saga
and Harry Potter to original 1980s Star Wars toys. QOpen
11:00 - 17:30, Mon 13:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00.
Closed Sun. A
Stenelux G-9, Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 2, tel.
(+31) 206 62 14 90, stenelux@kpnplanet.nl. One of
Amsterdam's most thrilling shops is located on a rather
non-descript, narrow shopping street. Surel y no other shops
in town sell tarantulas, bear's paws and lama heads? Tiny
Stenelux is filled to the brim with minerals and prehistoric fos-
sils like a 600 million year old jell yfish. Many of the odd items
on sale are also surprisingl y affordable. Q TJL
Supermarkets
Albert Heijn A-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 226, tel.
(+31) 204 21 83 44, www.ah.nl. The largest supermarket
chain in the Netherlands has dozens of locations all over Am-
sterdam. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Also at Jodenbreestraat
21, tel. (+31) 206 24 12 49. Open 08:00 - 22:00; Prins Hen-
drikkade 20, tel. (+31) 206 27 06 01. Open 07:00 - 22:00;
Stadhouderskade 101, tel. (+31) 206 75 28 88. Open 08:00
- 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00; Westerstraat 79, tel. 206 23 68
52. Open 08:00 - 22:00; and many other locations.
Marqt H-6, Utrechtsestraat 17, tel. (+31) 208 10 00 80,
www.marqt.com. This posh supermarket offers an excellent
selection of fresh produce, but remember to bring your plastic
as Marqt doesn't accept cash. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 20:00. Also at Overtoom 21, tel. (+31) 204 22 63
11. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. A
Amsterdam Marionette Theatre (Amsterdams
Marionetten Theater) B-1, Nieuwe Jonkerstraat
8, tel. (+31) 206 20 80 27, www.marionettenthe-
ater.nl. The Amsterdam Marionette Theatre performs
plays in i ts small theatre using tradi tional wooden
marionettes. Performances are usually in Dutch, but
due to the visual and musical nature of the acts, most
kids won't care about the language barrier. You can also
take a backstage tour for a behind the scenes look at the
marionettes and costumes. Q Admission: adults 16,
children 7 - 14 years 7.50. Opening times vary. TJ
De Pijp Petting Zoo (Kinderboerderij De Pijp)
H-10, Lizzy Ansinghstraat 82, tel. (+31) 206 64 83
03, www.kinderboerderijdepijp.nl. This petting zoo
has been entertaining children in De Pijp since 1983
and is home to an amazing 50 di fferent species of
animals from goldfish and rodents to turtles and ducks.
The usual ponies, donkeys, pigs, rabbits, goats and
sheep are also on hand. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sat,
Sun 13:00 - 17:00. T
Jewish Historical Children's Museum (Joods
Historisch Kinder Museum) H-5, Nieuwe Amstel-
straat 1, tel. (+31) 205 31 03 10, www.jhmkinder-
museum.nl. A part of the Jewish Historical Museum, this
museum on three floors is designed to teach children
about Judaism, but from a child's perspective. Kids can
visit a working kitchen and learn about the kosher tradi-
tion and typical Jewish cuisine or visit the Hollanders - a
fictional Amsterdam Jewish family - to see what their
home life is like and how it both differs from and resem-
bles an average Dutch family's day-to-day life. Another
part of the museum is dedicated to traditional Jewish
musical instruments where children can listen to music.
QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 9, children 13
- 17 years 4.50, children 12 and under free.
Race Planet Amsterdam Herwijk 10, tel. (+31)
206 11 11 20, www.raceplanet.com. This is the larg-
est go-kart centre in the Netherlands with two indoor race
tracks, a so-called wall-of-death, bowling, miniature golf,
a game zone and a indoor playground. QOpen 13:00
- 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Admission: 15.75 for
a 12-minute race. TAL
Ridammerhoeve Goat Farm Nieuwe Meerlaan 4,
tel. (+31) 206 45 50 34, www.geitenboerderij.nl.
This farm is a great escape for families. Although it's a
bit hard to find, its well worth the effort. Learn all about
goats and chickens as well as pigs and cows up close.
You can also buy fresh organic eggs, homemade honey
and delicious goat cheese to take home. QOpen 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. TLBKS
TunFun Speelpark H-5, Mr. Visserplein 7, tel.
(+31) 206 89 43 00, www.tunfun.nl. In what looks
like a disused underground metro station near the Por-
tuguese Synagogue lies Tun Fun, a children's paradise. If
you can't find it just follow the steady stream of families,
children's parties and school excursions into the depth of
this enormous playground that includes slides, climbing
labyrinths, painting workshops, trampolines and other
atrractions. The screams of the children can be a bit
overwhelming at times but internet access and cans
of beer at the caf help keep the cacaphony of pre-
pubescant chatter at bay. Adults are only admitted with
children and only have to pay an entrance fee for their
kids. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission: kids 7.50,
adults free. KW
Amsterdam for kids
Bulbs as far as the eye can see M.Zaprauskis
62
SPORTS & LEISURE
Ballooning
Rob Wiegers Ballonvaart BV Peter van den Bree-
merweg 9, Soest, tel. (+31) 356 03 00 28, nfo@
luchtballonvaart.com, www.luchtballonvaart.com. This
company is based outside Amsterdam, but - depending on
the wind and weather conditions - it will take you up in the air
for a bird's eye view of the Dutch countryside.
Bowling
Knijn Bowling D-6, Scheldplein 3, tel. (+31) 206 64 22
11, info@knijnbowling.nl, www.knijnbowling.nl. A lane will
cost you 21 - 28/hour depending on the day and time or
you could come for disco bowling at the weekend from 23:00
for 11.50. Q AK
Fitness & Gyms
Brightside Fitness Amsterdam C-9, Baarsjesweg
289HS, tel. (+31) 206 83 44 36, www.brightsidefitness.
nl. This gym doesn't require a membership, so you can just
pay as you go.
Sport City H-5, Jodenbreestraat 6, tel. (+31) 206 26
26 22, www.sportcity.nl. Al though it's a member's club
you can order a day pass via its website.
Sport City Wibautstraat J-8, Wibautstraat 224, tel.
(+31) 204 65 56 66, amsterdam@sportcity.nl, www.
sportcity.nl. Al though it's a member's club you can order a
day pass via its website.
Horse riding
De Hollandsche Manege E-9, Vondelstraat 140, tel.
(+31) 206 18 09 42, info@dehollandschemanege.nl,
www.dehollandschemanege.nl. 35 horses and 15 ponies
are at your disposal at the Dutch Riding School, which has
been in operation in the Vondel Park since 1882.
Manege Nieuw Amstelland Jan Tooropplantsoen
17, Amstelveen, tel. (+31) 206 43 24 68, info@nieu-
wamstelland.nl, www.nieuwamstelland.nl. Get back in
the saddle at this riding school.
Karting
Race Planet Amsterdam Herwijk 10, tel. (+31) 206
11 11 20, amsterdam@raceplanet.nl, www.raceplanet.
nl. The place to go in Amsterdam for indoor go-karting. It also
offers specials for kids parties. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
Paintball & Laser tag
Paintball Jungle Wethouder van Essenweg, tel. (+31)
206 13 11 29, info@paintballjungle.nl, www.paintbal-
ljungle.nl. Shoot your friends as part of a stag night or come
here with your colleagues for a little team building exercise.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
Swimming pools
Het Marnix D-5, Marnixplein 1, tel. (+31) 205 24 60
00, info@hetmarnix.nl, www.hetmarnix.nl. Despites its
small size, Het Marnix boasts two swimming pools, a spa, a
heal th club and a restaurant. Q ABKC
Sportplaza Mercator Jan van Galenstraat 315, tel.
(+31) 206 18 89 11, info@sportplazamercator.nl, www.
sportfondsen.nl. A huge swimming pool, fitness centre and
gym. QOpen 13:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Also at
Fronemanstraat 3, tel. (+31) 206 65 08 11. AC
Tennis courts
Frans Otten Stadion IJsbaanpad 43, tel. (+31) 206
62 87 67, info@fransottenstadion.nl, www.fransotten-
stadion.nl. Sign up for some court time, reserve a squash
court or take a lesson and improve you backhand. QOpen
09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. AK
Sportcentrum Amstelpark Koenenkade 8 (Amster-
damse Bos), tel. (+31) 203 01 07 00, info@amstelpark.
nl, www.amstelpark.nl. Tennis anyone? Take your pick of 21
outdoor or 11 indoor courts. You can also play squash or take
advantage of its fitness centre, spa, restaurant and sports
bar in the lovel y Amsterdam Bos. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00,
Sun 08:00 - 20:00. ALKD
Whether due to the magic of its illustrious past, the ex-
citement of the famous arena or just as part of a football
pilgrimage, Ajax still draws tens of thousands of tourists
every year. There are a high number of season ticket
holders, so only a few thousand seats are for sale for
each game, which can be bought via the official Ajax site
(www.ajax.nl). Unfortunately, even when a game has of-
ficially sold out, youll often find lots of empty seats in the
stadium as not all season ticket holders are completely
loyal to their team. The matches, however, are seldom
boring in large part due to Section 410. This part of the
stadium is populated by mostly young fans that are the
teams most die-hard supporters. This is in stark con-
trast to the official so-called core support of the F-side,
which you can find behind the goal. Theyve recently been
overshadowed by the young supporters of 410.
Upcoming home matches:
18.12 12:30 Ajax v. ADO Den Haag
05.02 12:30 Ajax v. FC Utrecht
19.02 14:30 Ajax v. N.E.C. Nijmegen
04.03 14:30 Ajax v. Roda JC Kerkrade
18.03 14:30 Ajax v. RKC Waal wijk
18.03 14:30 Ajax v. PSV Eindhoven
Amsterdam ArenA
Anyone whod like to visit the stadium itself can take
partin the World of Ajax walk-in tour. It brings you to the
edge of the pitch, you can have a look from the main
stand and enter the press room. During a one-hour tour
the guide will tell you all about the stadium and the club.
Prices: adults 12, children 10. Departures from main
entrance E on the west side of the stadium. After the
tour you can visit the official fan shop for all of the Ajax
merchandise you can possibly want. Opening hours and
tour departure times are subject to change during and
around event days. Photo by Louis van de Vuurst
Amsterdam Arena Arena boulevard 1, tel. (+31) 203
11 13 33, www.ajax.nl, www.amsterdamarena.nl.
Ajax matches & Arena tours
Although Ajax is no longer the great international power it
once was, Amsterdams football club is at the top of the
table in the Dutch league and is still extremely popular with
football tourists. The rich history of the 111-year-old club is
now brought to life in the recently opened Ajax Experience
on busy Rembrandt Square.
The Aj ax Experi ence takes vi si tors on a j ourney
through time, but thankfully not in chronological order. Its a
compliment to the football legend that it doesnt just show
the clubs many achievements in this two-storey, wheelchair
accessible building. Its most poignant disappointments
and defeats havent been glossed over in this modern,
interactive hall of fame. After all, its only possible to fully
appreciate a sweet victory, if youve also experienced a bitter
defeat. Obviously, much emphasis has been placed on its
international successes, most of which were achieved in
the 1970s. Of course, success at home, including a record
30 league titles, is also a hot topic here. Historical pictures
and tangible memories including old kits transport fans to
legendary matches in Europes greatest stadiums.
If this all sounds interesting and tourist-worthy, then we
strongly recommend making a reservation as only 18 people
are allowed in per time slot. Every eight minutes a group
departs under the guidance of an employee in club colours.
The first highlight is the life sized portraits of heroes from the
glory days accompanied by important facts from the past.
Many visitors take photos of themselves next to their idols
here. Dont worry. Photography is permitted throughout the
building, provided your flash is turned off.
The first time you get properly acquainted with Ajax
during the obligatory walking route is when you pass one of
the biggest players from the past, ex-Arsenal and ex-Inter
Milan giant Dennis Bergkamp. He talks about his years as a
youth player at Ajax from the comfort of an enormous screen
and although he tells his tale in Dutch, English subtitles are
available for foreign visitors. The next room is the biggest
and is the place where most football fans will undoubtedly
spend the most time. All kinds of high-tech interactive devices
bombard each visitor with an overload of information. If you
think youre quite good at kicking a ball around yourself, you
can test your skill in several di fferent rooms where your
technical ability and the speed of your shot are measured.
And due to the ingenious use of unbreakable glass walls
throughout the rooms, other visitors can either praise your
abilities or laugh you off the virtual pitch.

The most prestigious prizes, namely the World Cup for
Teams and the Champions League, are also on display. In
addition to these shiny cups, less obvious items are also
worth looking at such as bath robes, inscribed watches and a
Golden Boot. The South African supporters items belonging
to daughter club Cape Town are some of the stranger
points of interest. Fortunately, the infamous Vuvuzela wind
instrument was locked away after the 2010 World Cup, so
unsuspecting visitors need not fear being assaulted with the
appalling screeching noise it produces. The colourful Urban
Warriors helmet could easily become a big hit at the annual
Dutch Carnival, but we digress.
Back on the tour you enter a tiny football stadium through
an actual players tunnel. All of the highs and lows from the
past 111 years of the clubs history are highlighted here by
means of a fast moving film. The artificial grass and the fake
stand help one imagine that theyre a famous international
star on the pitch. Theres also a fascinating map of the world,
which displays 300 lines that connect all the other clubs
where Ajax players have demonstrated their talent. In some
cases including ex-Chelsea player Winston Bogarde it
seems that they chose another club just to fill their pockets
by riding the pine.
Needless to say this tour ends in a shop filled to the
brim with all kinds of football souvenirs. Apart from authentic
football jerseys (made in Pakistan by adult labour), balls,
cards, cups, caps, beer glasses, stickers and scarves are
also available not to mention the most popular Dutch export
product, a pair of clogs painted with the classic Ajax logo. If
the tour has converted you into an Ajax fan, you can show your
support straight away by buying some of its merchandise.
Contact information
Ajax Experience B-3, Utrechtsestraat 9, www.
ajax.nl. Learn everything you ever wanted to know about
Amsterdams legendary football club. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,
Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission: adults 17.50,
children 4 - 12 12.50. A
63
AJAX EXPERIENCE
All photos courtesy of Ajax Images
Need to wash some clothes while you check your e-mail
or find a doctor to heal your sprained ankle? Looking for a
place to entertain your children or maybe a pharmacy to
keep your hangover in check? You'll find the answers here.
Bicycle repair
Het Zwarte Fietsenplan F-8, Lijnbaansgracht 282
- 283, tel. (+31) 206 70 85 31. Looking for replacement
parts for your bike? Crashed into a car and need repairs?
These guys will sort you out. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. A
Currency exchange
GWK Travelex F-3, Stationsplein (Central Station), tel.
(+31) 206 27 27 31, www.travelex.com/nl. If you plan on
exchanging money, banks offer the best exchange rates and
a smaller commission, but the GWK is the most convenient
if you're heading to the train station. The exchange rate is
reasonable but the commission is 0.75% with a minimum
charge of 3.25 and a maximum of 7.50. Buy or sell foreign
currency, cash travellers checks, withdraw money from your
credit or bank card or send and receive money with Western
Union. International calling cards, credit for mobile phones and
travel insurance are also available. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00,
Sun 09:00 - 22:00. Also at A-2, Dam 23 - 25; A-2, Damrak 86;
A-1, Damrak 1 - 5; Kalverstraat 150; F-8, Leidseplein 31A; and
F-7, Leidsestraat 103; Anton de Komplein 4 - 10.
Dentist
Tandartsen aan de Herengracht F-6, Herengracht
318, tel. (+31) 207 51 27 17, iwww.tadh.nl. QOpen
Mon, Thu, Fri 09:00 - 20:00, Tue, Wed 09:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
DVD rental
Cult Videotheek G-6, Amstel 7, tel. (+31) 206 22 78
43, www.cultvideotheek.nl. As the name suggests, this
is the place to go to buy or rent cul t classics. QOpen 16:00
- 21:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 22:00.
Videoland D-7, Bilderdijkstraat 64, tel. (+31) 206 12
05 70, www.videoland.nl. This place offers everything
from Holl ywood blockbusters to art house flicks. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00.
Hairdressers & Barbers
Hair Police J-7, Tweede oosterparkstraat 36H, tel.
(+31) 204 20 58 41, www.hairpolice.nl. The Hair Police
specialise in dreads, extensions and braids as well as cuts
and colouring. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Sun.
Kinki Kappers D-3, Haarlemmerdijk 17, tel. (+31)
206 25 60 00, info@kinki.nl, www.kinki.nl. You'll feel
like a fashion model at this trendy hair salon. QOpen 09:30
- 18:00, Thu 09:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Queens Hairstyle F-7, Herengracht 447, tel. (+31) 203
20 64 77, info@queenshairstyle.nl, www.queenshair-
style.nl. Al though we never spotted any blue bloods here,
this trendy salon is quite expensive! QOpen 09:00 - 18:00,
Thu 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:30. Closed Sun. J
Tommyz Toko Admiraal de Ruijterweg 85, tel. (+31)
206 38 78 72, www.tommyztoko.nl. Enjoy the art on the
walls while you get a trendy haircut either by the owner Tommy
or one of the other talented hairdressers. Be prepared to walk
out feeling hipper than ever. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Mon, Tue
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Hospitals & Medical
AMC (Academisch Medisch Centrum Universiteit
van Amsterdam) Meibergdreef 9, tel. (+31) 205 66
91 11, fax (+31) 205 66 44 40, www.amc.uva.nl. Q
Open 24hrs.
Expat Medical Centre D-6, Bloemgracht 112,
tel. (+31) 204 27 50 11, expatmc@planet.nl, www.
expatmc.net. The English-speaking doctors here offer medi-
cal attention, physiotherapy and even psychotherapy and they
accept EU heal th cards, too! QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. On Saturdays and Sundays by appointment onl y.
Prinsengracht Clinic F-7, Prinsengracht 769, tel.
(+31) 205 99 41 00, fax (+31) 205 99 43 67, informa-
tie@olvg.nl, www.olvg.nl.
Sint Lucas Andreas Ziekenhuis Jan Tooroptraat 164,
tel. (+31) 205 10 89 11, ziekenhuis@slaz.nl, www.slaz.
nl. Q Open 24hrs.
Laundries & Cleaners
Cleaning Service 'De Haarlemmer' (Stomerij
Quick & Clean) E-4, Haarlemmerstraat 45, tel. (+31)
206 20 27 85. Drop off your clothes here while you do some
shopping on Haarlemmerstraat. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Kalver Kledingreparatie & Stomerij A-3, Voet-
boogstraat 29-a, tel. (+31) 206 38 78 00. Dry cleaning
services as well as clothing repair. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,
Mon 13:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00,
Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Laundry & Things A-1, Warmoesstraat 30, tel. (+31)
614 03 28 03. Self-serve washing machines starting at as
low as 3 per load. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
Powders F-7, Kerkstraat 56, tel. (+31) 626 30 60 57,
www.powders.nl. This is a full service or self-service laundry
that offers free wi-fi, internet access and printing as well as
drinks and snacks. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
The Clean Brothers Wasserette E-4, Westerstraat
26, tel. (+31) 206 27 98 88. Wash your own clothes here
seven days a week. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
The Wash Company E-3, Haarlemmerdijk 32, tel.
(+31) 206 25 36 72. Dry cleaning as well as washing machi-
nes. Self serve 5.50 per load, full service 7.50. QOpen
09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
Wash@Net B-3, Amstel 30, tel. (+31) 204 28 62 35.
Check your e-mail while you wash your clothes or bring your
own laptop and use its internet connection.
Wassalon Laundry G-9, Frans Halssatraat 83, tel.
(+31) 643 58 32 09. Wash it yourself or drop it off and it'll
be ready in a few hours. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00, Sat 09:00
64
LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY
Join the rest of the ice skaters on Museumplein
Amsterdam Toerisme & Congres Bureau (ATCB)
65
LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY
Libraries
Centrale Bibliotheek H-3, Oosterdokskade 143, tel.
(+31) 205 23 09 00, info@oba.nl, www.oba.nl. This
modern glass building between the Central Station and the
NEMO Science Centre not onl y has an interesting location
but also books in English, internet access and it's open late.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Massage
China Beauty Massage Center A-2, Paleisstraat
19, tel. (+31) 204 21 21 21, www.chinesemassageam-
sterdam.com. A full body massage, a pedicure or a foot
massage cost 35 for one hour. A 30-minute foot massage,
which includes a head, neck and shoulder massage, costs
20. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Also at Kloveniersburgwal 28
(Shanghai Beauty), tel. (+31) 204 20 94 82.
Chinese Massage Centre Bejing A-2, Hasselaersteeg
14, tel. (+31) 623 33 52 16. Head, foot, neck or full body
massages for the usual rates. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
Koan Float F-7, Herengracht 321, tel. (+31) 205 55
03 33, www.koanfloat.nl. This massage centre lets you
relax by floating in warm water heated to 35.5C. QOpen
09:30 - 23:00. JA
Pharmacies
DA Apotheek Leidsestraat F-7, Leidsestraat 74 - 76,
tel. (+31) 204 22 02 10, www.da-apotheekleidsestraat.
apotheek.org. The pharmacy can be reached during the
day via the entrance of the DA-drugstore at the Leidse-
straat around the corner. QOpen 09:00 - 21:50. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Dam Apotheek A-2, Damstraat 2, tel. (+31) 206 24 43
31, www.dam-apotheek.nl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30.
Spas & Beauty
City Street Spa G-8, Prinsengracht 764, tel. (+31) 202
21 41 02, www.thecitystreetspa.com. The Japanese-
style City Street Spa is Amsterdam's latest attraction among
the spa set. Apart from the usual treatments, you can also hire
the whole place for 60/hour. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Rosalia's Beauty & Welness D-6, 2e Hugo de
Grootstraat 14-16, tel. (+31) 206 82 24 59, www.
rosaliabeauty.nl. A range of beauty treatments you can find
in this monumental building. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri 10:00
- 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Sauna Deco E-5, Herengracht 115, tel. (+31) 206 23
82 15, www.saunadeco.nl. The beautiful interior of this
mixed sex Art Deco sauna was rescued from demolition and
lovingly restored. Facilities include sauna, Turkish steam bath,
chill out areas, beauty treatments, massage, solarium, fitness
centre, caf and an outside relaxation area. QOpen 12:00
- 23:00, Tue 15:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 10:00. Admission:
21. AK
Sauna Fenomeen Eerste Schinkelstraat 14 -16, tel.
(+31) 206 71 67 80, www.saunafenomeen.nl. Fenomeen
is a unique sauna. It was squatted in 1984, given legal status
by the city in 1989 and is still run mostl y by enthusiastic
volunteers. It's a sauna with an al ternative' atmosphere, so
you can expect non-alcoholic beverages and organic fare. It's
a naturist sauna meaning the wearing of swimwear or under-
garments of any kind is not appreciated. Facilities include dry
sauna, Turkish steam bath, Jacuzzi, outside space, chillout
space, massage, sunbeds, a bar, chess and a library. QOpen
13:00 - 23:00. Monday women onl y. Tues - Sun mixed sex.
Admission: 13:00 - 17:00 for 8, 17:00 - 23:00 for 9, and
22:00 - 23:00 for 4. BKD
Real estate
Direct Wonen E-8, Overtoom 47, tel. (+31) 206 16 16
66, www.directwonen.nl. If you're looking for an apartment,
these guys may be able to help. QOpen 10:00 - 18:30.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Rots-Vast Groep A-3, Singel 370, tel. (+31) 206 39
11 49, amsterdam@rotsvast.nl, www.rotsvast.nl. This
experienced real estate company can help you buy or rent
property in Amsterdam and many other cities in the Nether-
lands. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Tattoos & Piercing
Dermadonna Custom Tattoos B-2, Kloveniersbur-
gwal 34, tel. (+31) 207 73 66 14, www.dermadonna.nl.
Get a tattoo from real experts. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00.
Hanky Panky Tattooing B-2, Oudezijdsvoorburgwal
141, tel. (+31) 206 27 48 48, www.hankypankytattoo.
nl. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.
Tattoo Palace B-3, Reguliersdwarsstraat 91, tel. (+31)
206 38 44 48, www.tattoopalace.com. The tattoo artists
have been at it here since 1989. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 14:00 - 19:00.
Theres always been a tre-
mendous rivalry between the
two biggest cities in Holland:
Rotterdam and Amsterdam.
In the football arena Ajax and
Feyenoord battl e i t out, in
sportsmanlike fashion, twice
every season, which often
times ends with a positive
result for the current league
champions. As far as modern
archi tecture is concerned,
however, the capital should acknowledge Rotterdams
superiority, as the worlds largest port city possesses the
three tallest buildings in the Netherlands. The Maastoren
was built in 2009 and soars to a height of 165m, while the
Delftse Poort is a close second at 151m. Both are dozens
of metres taller than Amsterdams Rembrandttoren,
which climbs to a height of 135m. Its quite conspicuous
that Amsterdams tallest building is ranked only ninth on
the list of Hollands megastructures.
Apart from Rotterdams four buil dings, the Top 10
i s domi nated by The Hague, whi ch al so has four
skyscrapers, and Tilburg, which boasts one. In addi-
tion to the Rembrandttoren, which was built in 1995,
Amsterdam also has the Mondriaantoren (123m) and
the Amsterdam Symphonys A and B buildings.
Although this may all sound impressive, or quite the con-
trary if youre from New York or Kuala Lumpur, Hollands
tallest man-made structure is actually a 367m-high radio
tower that can be found in IJsselstein near Utrecht. It
should, however, be noted that the building itself is only
100 metres tall, while the steel tubular mast comprises
259.6 metres of the structure. For many years this tower
was considered to be the tallest building in Europe and
since 1992 its been decorated with strings of lights
during the Yuletide season to look like a Christmas tree
the worlds largest. Unfortunately, recent fire damage
has thrown a wet blanket on this festive tradition this
year, so youll have to wait until December 2012 to see
it in all its glory.
Rivalry and Christmas trees
66
AMSTERDAM-NOORD
For centuries the north section of the city was an area that
most Amsterdammers weren't too keen on. It seems that
everything unwanted was 'dumped' here, from the gallows
in medieval times to the polluting ship building industry
much later. Extensive social housing projects attracted
large numbers of financially challenged people exacerbat-
ing the stigma that was already attached to Amsterdam's
largest administrative district. Today Noord, or simply
North, is one of the most vibrant areas of the Dutch capi-
tal. More and more people have begun to appreciate the
unique merits of this territory beyond the River IJ. With this
in mind we've put together a small guide to this interesting
urban and rural zone that's usually overlooked by most
tourists. All you need to do is to take one of the free ferries
behind the Central Station and 10 minutes later you'll be
able to explore Noord and its surroundings. Take a small
river cruise on a boat that offers an all-you-can-eat pan-
cake buffet, do some cycling in the pristine countryside,
bring a towel and swim trunks and take a dip at one of
the area's swimming pools or visit a festival and see why
Noord has become the sizzling new hub of Amsterdam's
creative community.
Getting to Noord
Ferries There are three different ferries that will take you over
the River IJ in just a few minutes and bring you to Amsterdam-
Noord completel y free of charge. That's right! You can walk
on board or bring your bike or scooter and the short ride
won't cost you a cent. In fact, the ferries have been around
for a long time and the very first regular IJ ferrie set sail way
back in 1897.
The departure landing is located just behind Amsterdam
Central Station. From there you can ei ther take the ferry
to Buiksloterweg (day and night), IJ-plein (till midnight) and,
also till midnight, the NDSM-werf (the former dockyards).
From the Tasmanstraat in Amsterdam-West the ferry takes
you to either the NDSM-werf or the Distel weg. And please
note that due to the high number of passengers sometimes
extra routes appear.
The BridgeTo get to Amsterdam-Noord you can also ride your
bike right through Amsterdam East, crossing the Amsterdam
Bridge and the Schellingwoude Bridge. Then turn left to reach
Schellingwoude and Nieuwendam or right to head out to
Durgerdam and Hol ysloot.
Buses Buses also take you to the north part of the city. Buses
Nr. 31, 32, 33, 34 and 35 leave from the Bus station right
behind Central Station.
Accommodation
From botels and cosy B&Bs to camping and luxury hotels,
the north side of the River IJ has plenty to offer in the way
of accommodation.
Amstel Botel NDSM-Pier 3, tel. (+31) 206 26 42 47,
www.amstelbotel.nl. This ship is safel y moored at the
NDSM pier. In the past this colossus was a ri verboat and
most guests spent their time on deck. I f you simpl y need
somewhere to crash after a night on the town and you're
looking for free parking, this is the place. Small cabins wi th
thin walls and claustrophobic bathrooms come standard
at this botel. The lack of luxury and pri vacy may not be to
everyone's liking, but i f you need relati vel y cheap accom-
modation and you don't mind li ving on the water, book a
room at the back where you have a great view of the Ri ver
IJ. Unfortunatel y most other rooms face a grey wall. Q
PTALGBKXW
B&B De Gekroonde Zwaan Nieuwendammerdijk 221,
tel. (+31) 652 37 76 50, www.degekroondezwaan.nl.
Established in 1902, the Crowned Swan is a great five-star
B&B option in Amsterdam. This stylish apartment consists of
two adjoining rooms that place an emphasis on interior design
and luxury. Equipped with all of the modern conveniences one
would expect, it has the undisputed bonus of a two-person
whirlpool and a massage shower. The location on Amster-
dam's most attractive bicycle route is also nothing to sneeze
at and two bikes are available free of charge. Unfortunatel y,
the fridge stocked with good quality wine will cost you extra.
Q 1 apartment (double 145). TLGBXW
B&B De Oude Taveerne Durgerdammerdijk 73, tel.
(+31) 204 90 42 59, www.deoudetaveerne.nl. De Oude
Taveerne exudes nostalgia. Most of the seventeen rooms have
been furnished stylishly, but only a few have the picture perfect
view of the IJsselmeer. All rooms have been equipped with mod-
ern amenities, although the bathrooms are quite small and the
steep stairs leading to the rooms are not easily accessible for
everyone. The restaurant is rustically decorated and includes
an eye-catching 100-year-old beer tap and beautiful murals. In
short, the past is brought to life in this distinctive building dating
from 1760, but unfortunately the prices are far from affordable
and the lacklustre service on the brilliant terrace is outdated and
the drinks and meals are expensive. Q 17 rooms (16 doubles
and 1 family from 119). TAGBKXW
B&B Het Oude Dijkhuis Nieuwendammerdijk 443,
tel. (+31) 204 94 18 42, info@hetoudedijkhuis.nl, www.
hetoudedijkhuis.nl. Located on one of Amsterdam's most
attractive cycling routes, this spacious apartment can ac-
commodate up to four people. The furnishings are not exactly
modern or cosy and could best be described as old fashioned
and boring. On the other hand, the friendl y owners and the
more than reasonable prices make up for the lack of dcor.
The Old Dike House even has a private entrance and a full
sized kitchen. It also rents bikes, but you can't take them to
the centre of Amsterdam because of the risk of theft. Q 1
apartment (1 person 70, 4 persons 130). TLGB
Bed & Breakfast Welcome2Amsterdam Van der
Pekplein 3, tel. (+31) 207 52 67 29, www.bbwelco-
me2amsterdam.nl. Four houses have been renovated and
converted into accommodation with a unique theme. The
concept is to make you feel like a proper north Amsterdam-
mer when you spend the night in either the Nature House,
the House of Cul ture, the Looking-for-the-Northern-Feeling
House and the Stars House. Each house is a cultural highlight
in its own right. Artists, writers and musicians have been
allowed to release their creativity in these places, leading
to more than a few surprises for its guests like the stacked
coffee tables, musical rooms and even some bizarre looking
insects. Q 4 apartments (75 for 2 persons during the
week, 80 on weekends).
NH Galaxy Amsterdam Amsterdam Distelkade 21,
tel. (+31) 206 34 43 66, www.nh-hotels.com. The
recentl y renovated NH Galaxy Hotel is true to i ts name,
because the world's at your feet in this four-star hotel. The
breakfast buffet is well stocked and the spacious rooms
not onl y have cutting-edge interior design, but are also
fi tted wi th king-sized beds and luxurious bathrooms. The
friendl y staff and i ts pri vate parking also add extra value
to this design hotel and thanks to the shuttle bus, which
is free of charge, the centre of Amsterdam is onl y a short
ride away. I f you don't like the idea of going too far from the
hotel at night, there's actuall y plenty on offer in the way of
recreation and restaurants in the direct vicini ty of the hotel.
Q PTHAUFLGBKXW
68
AMSTERDAM-NOORD
Food & Drink
Caf IJ-Zicht Nieuwendammerdijk 413, tel. (+31) 206
36 33 96, www.ij-zicht.hyves.nl. Anyone looking for that
typical Amsterdam feel (whatever that may be) should try
this nostalgic little pub on a quiet street full of idyllic, old dike
houses. You'll be welcome at the regulars' table and at the
bar, but definitel y not in the corner where the local booze
hounds have staked out their own territory. Bars in Amster-
dam don't get any more authentic than this one. The rugs on
the table and the sharp-witted, yet friendl y publican with his
thick Amsterdam accent, will take you back to the days when
hospitality and honest service were more important than a
trendy look. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00,
Sun 14:00 - 24:00. T6UGBKX
Cafe 't Sluisje Nieuwendammerdijk 297, tel. (+31)
206 36 17 12, www.hetsluisje.nl. This remarkabl e
building is located in one of the most scenic areas of Am-
sterdam-Noord. At a intersection of age-old water routes
that farmers once used to bring their milk to the centre of
town by boat, passers-by can now enjoy a cup of coffee or
a glass of Nobel tje, a liqueur from the island of Ameland.
Unfortunatel y, there aren't many sailors left in this histori-
cal part of Amsterdam, but apart from that this famil y-run
business is authenti c and nostal gi c. The menu on the
other hand is completel y contemporary wi th chic dishes like
warm goat's cheese salad and smoked salmon wi th capers.
QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00
- 23:00. Closed Mon. (5 - 8). TGB
De Pannekoekenboot Ms. van Riemsdijkweg, tel.
(+31) 206 36 88 17, www.pannenkoekenboot.nl. The
Pancake Boat can't be compared in any way to the traditional
tour boats that roam the busy Amsterdam canals. Even its
route is completel y different from those of its competitors.
This floating double-decker doesn't follow the usual ring of
canals, but takes you past all of the architectural masterpie-
ces of Amsterdam North instead. But most of the people on
board probabl y couldn't care less where the boat's headed
as their focus is on the enormous servings of pancakes on
offer. The main draw of this floating food factory is the all-you-
can-eat pancake meal. Bon voyage and bon apptit! Q Tours
begin at 13:30, 16:30 and 18:00 and cost as low as 10
depending on the tour. Closed Mon, Tue. TALGBK
Eetcaf Het Dijkhuis Kanaaldijk 119, Watergang, tel.
(+31) 204 03 13 86, www.eetcafedijkhuis.nl. Just a few
kilometres from the busy A10 motorway, you'll find a completely
different world. More than a century ago the horses used by
stage coaches received a well-deserved rest here. As their
owners also fancied some food and a drink, the Dijkhuis was
set up as a tavern. The view of the canal and the fields from
the enormous terrace or the spacious conservatory is simply
fabulous and the disinterested staff serve an assortment of
international dishes. QOpen 17:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 14:00
- 22:00. Closed Mon. (18 - 22). TALGBKX
Koffiehuis De Klaproos (The Poppy) Klaprozenweg
60, tel. (+31) 206 37 65 12. For over 50 years the De
Klaproos coffee house has been serving food and drinks on the
Klaprozenweg, one of the busiest roads in Amsterdam-Noord.
But for the past few years this nostalgic living room-like pub,
which you might expect to find in the middle of the Jordaan
instead of next to a public racetrack, has been run by Anita and
Nancy. The kitschy lights, bottles of Heineken and particularly
the loudspeakers that blast out the latest Dutch hits, create a
fun local atmosphere typical of Amsterdam. Hungry guests can
try the homemade meatball sandwich. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00,
Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. 6LBX
Noorderlicht t.t. Neveritaweg 33, tel. (+31) 204 92 27
70, info@noorderlichtcafe.nl, www.noorderlichtcafe.nl.
Noorderlicht, or Northern Lights, is one of those places where
there seems to be no middle ground: you either love it or hate
it. Some people would strongl y recommend the food in this
artistic, glass building with al ternative looking staff and an all
but common menu. Others are not impressed by a restaurant
in a glorified greenhouse with a somewhat bizarre menu and
staff that have a casual relationship with their profession on
a messy and draughty industrial site. Whatever your opinion
may be, no one disputes that the terrace with a view over
the IJ river and free parking right in front of the entrance are
tremendous advantages. And if you do decide to have a
meal here, the oriental salad or stuffed wraps are both safe
options. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (13 - 16).
TA6ILEGBKX
Pollux eten & drinken NDSM-Pier 6, tel. (+31) 204
92 28 48, www.pollux-amsterdam.nl. For centuri es
Holland has been a seafaring nation and i f you'd like to see
some of this proud tradi tion up close you'll find several ships
moored at the NDSM Pier in the heart of Noord. The Pollux,
a former training ship buil t in 1940, is the most attracti ve
of the bunch. These days this historic three-mast tall ship
doesn't serve simple seamen's fare, but rather sophisti-
cated French and Spanish seafood. The interior, however,
is defini tel y authentic, complemented by three beauti ful
outdoor decks and comfortable lounge chairs. The affluent
commander's base in particular, wi th i ts leather chairs and
pri vate bar, is a great option for a splurge. Drunks won't be
thrown overboard, as in the past, but can sleep i t off in the
Botel (boat-hotel) next door. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed
Mon. PTALBXW
Wilhelmina-Dok Noordwal 1, tel. (+31) 206 32 37 01,
www.wilhelmina-dok.nl. If you'd like to admire one of the
most beautiful views of Amsterdam by night, you should reser-
ve a table next to the large windows of this restaurant that
looks like someone's living room. That said, the wide terrace
is also an ideal spot to have a cocktail or a cool white beer
(the Secret of the Smit) with some snacks or small dishes like
roasted pumpkin and outstanding goat's cheese. Sadl y, the
main courses aren't as good as the appetisers, but did we
mention that Wilhelmina-Dok has incredible views? QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. (16 - 18). TAULBKW
Shopping
Landmarkt Amsterdam Schellingwouderdijk 339,
www.landmarkt.nl. This spacious indoor hall is heaven
on earth for foodies and anyone who appreciates fresh
food, but unlike similar organic markets the bread, meat,
fish, vegetables and other dail y necessities are hardl y more
expensive than the stuff you'll get at a regular shop. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. TAULG
Windmill in Noord Photo: Amsterdam-Noord
69
AMSTERDAM-NOORD
Sightseeing
Amsterdam North Museum (Museum De Noord)
Zamenhofstraat 28a, tel. (+31) 630 97 56 02, www.
museumamsterdamnoord.nl. There are more than 40
museums in Amsterdam, yet there's onl y one in Noord. Even
though the history of Amsterdam North stretches back
much farther than that of the settlement on the other side
of the Ri ver IJ, Amsterdam's largest district didn't get i ts
own museum until 2009. Located in the former public baths
of the Bird Village, one of the characteristic garden cities of
Noord, the museum tells the interesting story of this part
of the capital of the Netherlands. The museum is definitel y
worth a visit, especiall y since so many other big museums in
town are currentl y under construction. The admission fee is
also pleasantly affordable. Paintings, sculpture, photographs,
models and changing exhibitions paint an accurate picture
of this livel y part of town. Maps for guided or independent
walking and cycling tours that are available at the museum
will help you explore the interesting and beautiful attractions
of North and its surrounding wetlands. QOpen Fri 13:00
- 17:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu.
Admission: 3. TLG
Asterdorp's Last Building Asterdwarsweg 10. The
unusual name of this structure could be the title of a new
Steven Spielberg movie: 'Asterdorp's Last Building' perhaps
followed by 'Asterdorp Strikes Back.' Nearl y 100 years ago
this unusual district was inhabited by roughl y 100 so-called
'difficul t families' that were referred to as antisocial people.'
They learned how to live without causing inconvenience to
others here, but under the supervision of strict house supervi-
sors. Just in case the experiment were to fail, the whole district
was surrounded by a 2m-high wall. At the advent of World War
II the village was cleared in order to provide accommodation
to refugees from the bombarded city of Rotterdam. In 1942
German/Jewish families were imprisoned at Asterdorp and
were deported a year later. The complex was demolished in
1955 and all that remains today is the gatehouse where the
white, right-angled, two-storey building now stands that used
to be the onl y entrance to Asterdorp. The illustrious local
artist Andr Vol ten also lived here until his death.
Kerk Zunderdorp Achterlaan 20, Zunderdorp, www.
kerkzunderdorp.nl. If someone ever organises a competition
for the Most Beautiful Church in the Netherlands, this white-
brown building will be a strong contender if not for its archi-
tectural splendour, then at least for its idyllic location. This
place is remarkabl y quiet, al though the bleating sheep and
clucking chickens nearby create a very Dutch atmosphere.
But a plaque commemorating World War II victims and the
bricked up windows hint that this place hasn't al ways been
so peaceful. If you'd like to enjoy this beautiful spot perma-
nentl y, it's possible to reserve a space under the poplars
and chestnut trees in the cemetery. Services are held every
Sunday morning at 10:00.
Maritime Quarter NDSM-Pier. What do boats like the
Pollux, a magnificent steel three-masted schooner, the Amstel
Botel, a former riverboat cruise ship that was transformed into
a 3-star hotel, and the Sirius, a famous Greenpeace ship, have
in common? Nothing, despite the fact that they're all moored
adjacent to the NDSM shipyard in the Maritime Quarter, a strik-
ing collection of ships and buildings situated around a long jetty.
Other impressive vessels include the red Irish lightship Finley
that attracts cultural party-goers from around the city, the old
Russian submarine and the wooden Mahu M880 minesweeper.
Right next to the ferry is the platform for De Pannenkoekenboot
(Pancake Boat) where hungry diners can enjoy a cruise and an
all-you-can-eat pancake experience.
NDSM-werf (NDSM shipyard) NDSM-werf. An excur-
sion just west of the NDSM shipyard is a must for anyone
with a taste for modern architecture. For 60 years a massive
shipping industry called the NDSM-shipyard wharf home.
Countless vessels left these legendary wharves, a part of
the Dutch seafaring tradition that had lasted for centuries
and made Amsterdam one of the planet's economic power-
houses. But nothing lasts forever and the shipping industry
suffered greatly during the economic recession of the 1970s,
which had a profound effect on Amsterdam-Noord and its
residents. In 1984, the shipyard finall y closed i ts doors,
but the misery caused by unemployment and the loss of
a proud livelihood sowed the seeds of today's rebirth. The
shipyard has been converted into a cul tural venue that has
become one of Amsterdam's hottest entertainment centres.
Concerts, festivals and theatre are held amid a landscape of
monumental industrial buildings.
Tuindorp Nieuwendam Purmerplein. The ci ty began
building extensive housing projects during a period of boom-
ing economic growth and prosperity around the year 1900
to cope with a skyrocketing population. English style garden
villages were buil t and Nieuwendam is the most beautiful
of the lot. Prior to World War II, Tuindorp Nieuwendam was
even considered to be the prettiest garden village in Europe
speciall y buil t for workers. The livel y central square is called
Purmerplein and it's surrounded by characteristic low level
houses and plenty of green areas. The raised gatehouses
at the Purmerweg shield the streets behind them from pass-
ers-by and traffic creating an intimate atmosphere. Nearby
Tuindorp Oostzaan is also picturesque and not without its
charms.
The Button (De Knoop) Grasweg. The Button is one of
the most celebrated works by deceased artist Andr Vol ten
(2002). Inspired by the industrial environment of Noord, the
ex-welder specialised in creating large brass and stainless
steel objects. Whenever he had the time he would experiment
with materials he found in the former shipyard. Al though this
steel giant seems to be a simple piece of art, a closer look
will reveal a work full of depth.
Wooden Houses Nieuwendammerdijk. Although most of
the standard guidebooks are quick to point out that Amsterdam
has only two wooden houses left, that's definitely not the case.
Unfortunately, these so-called travel writers never made it to
the other side of the River IJ, an indivisible part of the Dutch
capital where more than 160 classic wooden homes still re-
main. Bundled together in little photogenic streets alongside
picturesque dikes like the Buiksloterdijk, Schellingwouderdijk
and the beautiful Nieuwendammerdijk, all are easily accessible
by bike. Most of these forgotten testaments to an Amsterdam
nearly lost were built in the 17th and 19th centuries, the two
eras in which the dikes flourished.
Modern architecture in Noord Photo: Amsterdam-Noord
Dining, coffeeshop and nightlife index
Abraxas 44
Al to Jazz Caf 39
Amarylles 31
Amnesia 44
Anna 23
Argentino Luna 20
Assaggi 26
Atrium 31
Backstage Hotel 19
Bagels & Beans 20
Bakkerij Lekker Brood en Zo 20
Balls 32, 34
Barney's 44
Barra 28
Batavia 1920 40
Bazar 27
Beer Temple 34
Beurs van Berlage 31
Biblos 32
Bird 29
Bitterzoet 39
Bluebird 44
Boom Chicago 38
Bourbon Street 39
Brandstof 32
Brouwerij 't IJ 34
Bulldog No. 90 45
Bulldog Palace 45
Burger Bar 28
Caf-Vino 25
Caf Belgique 34
Caf Casablanca 39
Caf Chris 35
Caf De Blauwe Druif 35
Caf de Koe 32
Caf de Oranjerie 40
Caf De Poort 32
Caf de Spuyt 34
Caf de Tuin 40
Caf De Vriendschap 40
Caf de Zeevaart 40
Caf de Zwart 31
Caf Eik en Linde 35
Caf Fonteyn 30
Caf Heffer 32
Caf Kobal t 30
Caf Papeneiland 35
Caf Proust 25
Caf Rouge 42
Caf Schel tema 31
Caf Slij terij Oosterling 35
Caf Sound Garden 32
Caf Spargo 25
Caf Thijssen 40
Cafe Thuys 32
Caf Van Zuylen 30
Caf Wiener 32
Canvas op de 7e 36
Casablanca Varit 39
Casa Rosso 41
Chao Phraya 29
Ciel Bleu 29
Club 8 36
Club Church 42
Club Escape 36
Club Up 36
Coffeeshop 36 45
Comfort Caffe 26
CREA Caf 40
D'Vijff Vlieghen 29
De 2 Grieken 24
De Bakkerswinkel 25
De Beiaard 25
De Bekeerde Suster 35
De Bijenkorf Kitchen 30
De Deugniet 33
De Drie Fleschjes 38
De Druif 35
De Duvel 30
De Keu 34
De Keuken Van 1870 22
De Pizzabakkers 28
Desa 24
De Spijker 42
De Taart van m'n Tante 31
Dolphins 45
Domino's Pizza 24
Drink 'n' Sink 33
Dulac 26
Dwaze Zaken 31
Febo 28
Funny People 45
Gandhi 24
Gare de l'est 26
George Deli U.S.A. 30
Gollem's Proeflokaal 34
Grasshopper 46
Greenhouse Centrum 46
Guadalupe 27
Haesje Claes 22
Hard Rock Caf 20
Het Elfde Gebod 35
Holland Casino 36
Hoopman Irish Pub 38
Ibssa 23
Il Tramezzino 26
In de Olofspoort 38
In de Wildeman 34
Jimmy Woo's 36
Kamasutra 24
Kantjil & de Tijger 24
Katsu 46
La Brasa 29
La Maria 26
La Perla 28
La Place 30
La Tertulia 46
Lempicka 26
Lion of Judah 46
Los Pilones 27
Louis Bar 33
Luden 23
Lunchroom & Fonduerie 26
Madrid 28
Magic 46
MAOZ 28
Melkweg 36
Memories of India 24
Mezza Luna 26
Moll y Malone's 38
Momo 20
Montmartre 42
Mulliner's Wijnlokaal 41
Nachttheater Sugar Factory 36
Nes Cafe 33
New King 22
New York Pizza 28
NJOY! 37
Noon 46
Nyonya Malaysia Express 26
O' Reill y's 38
OCCII 41
Old Church 46
Old Nickel 34
Onder de Ooievaar 35
Open 23
Oriental City 22
OT301 41
Padi 24
Pancakes! Amsterdam 28
Paradox 46
Pasta Tricolore 26
Players 40
Pompidou 23
Prik 42
Proeflokaal De Ooievaar 38
Ranara 27
Rastababy 46
Razmataz 23
Reality 43
REM eiland 25
Restaurant As 27
Restaurant Proef 27
Rodizio 22
Rokerij IV 47
Rusland 47
Sake & Co 37
Satellite Sports Caf 40
Siberie 47
Sitting Room 31
SkyLounge 37
Slainte Irish Pub 38
Small Talk Coffee Corner 31
Smokey 47
Snow Lion 29
Solo 47
Soup Kitchen 22
Starbucks 31
Studio/K 36
Studio 2 22
Studio 80 36
Supperclub Amsterdam 37
Susie's Saloon 33
't Arendsnest 34
't Lieverdje 23
Taboo 43
Teasers 40
Temple Bar 38
The Bananen Bar & Club 41
The Cave 39
The Corner 22
The Five Bells 33
The House of Rising 33
The Mexican 27
The Old Bell 33
The Pancake Bakery 28
The Queens Head 43
Thermos Sauna 43
The Rock In and Roll Out 33
The Saint 47
The Tara 38
The Waterhole 39
Tokyo Cafe 29
Tony's NY City Bagels 20
To Ouzeri 24
Toro Dorado 29
Trouw 37
Twenty Third Bar 37
Vibes 37
Vietnam Restaurant 29
Village Bagels 20
Villa Zeezicht 30
Vivelavie 43
Vyne 41
Wagamama 20
Weber 37
Whiskycaf L&B 41
Wing Kee 22
Yamazato 26
Zushi 29
70
VENUE INDEX
Get In Your Pocket before you go
The full In Your Pocket range is available to purchase online at:
www.inyourpocket.com/clickandbuy
N60 - 1.20Ls
RIGA
Hockey Fever
Everything you need to
know about IIHF World
Championship in Riga
Explore Latvia
Take a day trip to
the seaside towns of
Jrmala and Liepja
April - May 2006
N7 - Free copy
BELFAST
The Great
Outdoors
Cycling, skydiving and
country pursuits
Gastro Tourism
Seafood, whiskey and
St. Georges Market
August - September 2006
WARSAW
Wilanw
Explore the Polish
Versailles
Out of town
Polands top spa town:
Naczw
N34 - 5z (w tym 7% VAT)
ISSN 1641-5264
N4 - 400 lek
TIRANA
Shopping fever
Tiranas first malls
Facade art
Painting the city pink
2006 - 2007
Museumnight
100 museums in one
night
Floating the
boat
Spree river tours
N23 - 1.75
BERLIN
N47 - 35kr
TALLINN
Touring Narva
Cool sights at the EUs
eastern border
IYP gets a new
look
The inside scoop on the
new look inside
April - May 2006
N34 - 100 K
PRAGUE
Going to the
chapel
Karltejns renovated
jewel
Lets rock
Visiting the Bohemian
Paradise
N40 - 8.00 lei
BUCHAREST
A New Look
Weve never looked
better: In Your Pocket
gets a makeover
Blogging
Bucharest
Our guide to the best
politicall y incorrect
comment online
April - May 2006
KRAKW
Tarnw
Explore the Pearl of the
Renaissance
Leisure
Getting active in Krakw
N41 - 5z (w tym 7% VAT)
ISSN 1508-2334
COLOGNE
Football events
Win or lose, this is
where to party
River tours
Wine and dine on the
Rhine
June - July 2006
N1
Complimentary copy
HAMBURG
Harbour tours
Down in the docks
Football events
Win or lose, this is
where to party
June - July 2006
N1
Complimentary copy
74
NETHERLANDS MAP
75
OLD CENTRE STREET REGISTER
Amstel B3
Amstelstraat B3
Bakkersgang=112 A2
Bakkersstraat=8 B3
Balk In T Oogsteeg B3
Bantammerbrug=63 B1
Barndesteeg B2
Begijnensteeg=64 A3
Begijnhof A3
Bethanindwars-
straat=110 B2
Bethaninstraat B2
Bethlehemsgang* B1
Bethlehem-steeg=105
B2
Beulingstraat A3
Beurspassage=18 A2
Beursplein A2
Beurspoortje=83 A2
Beursstraat A1
Binnen
Bantammerstraat B1
Binnengasthuisstraat
B3
Binnenkant B1
Blaauwlakensteeg=25
B2
Blaeu Erf=82 A2
Blaeustraat=85 A2
Blauwburgwal=96 A1
Blinde Katersteeg=45
B3
Blindemansteeg B3
Bloedstraat B2
Boerensteeg A2
Boomsteeg=107 B1
Brandewijnsteeg=60 B2
Breemertuin* B2
Brouwersgracht=1 A1
Buiten
Bantammerstraat B1
Bushuissluis=92 B2
Cellebroerssteeg=61 A3
Dam A2
Damrak A1
Damraksteeg A2
Damstraat A2
Dijkdwarsstraat=94 B2
Dijkstraat B2
Dirk Van Hassel tssteeg
A1
Doelensluis=69 B3
Dollebegijnen-steeg=55
B2
Dubbeleworst-steeg=49
A3
Duifjessteeg A3
Duivensteeg* B2
Dwars Spinhuis-
steeg=98 B2
Eggertstraat A2
Elleboogsteeg=13 B1
Enge Kapelsteeg A3
Enge Kerksteeg=78 B1
Enge Lombardsteeg A2
Engelse
Pelgrimsteeg=58 B3
Engelsesteeg A1
Gapersteeg A2
Gasthuismolen-
steeg=26 A2
Gebed Zonder End=27
B3
Gedempte
Begijnensloot A3
Gedempte
Huidenvetterssloot=12
B2
Geel vinckssteeg=50 B3
Geldersekade B1
Geldersesteeg=41 B1
Goldbergersteeg=75 A2
Gooijersteeg=32 B2
Gordijnensteeg=87 B2
Goudsbloemsteeg=111
A3
Gouwenaarssteeg=44
A1
Gravenstraat A2
Grimburgwal B3
Groenburgwal B3
Guldehandsteeg=100
B1
Haarlemmerstraat=5 A1
Hal vemaansbrug B3
Hal vemaansteeg B3
Handboogstraat A3
Haringpakkerssteeg A1
Hasselaerssteeg A1
Heiligeweg A3
Heintje Hoekssteeg B1
Heisteeg A3
Hekel veld A1
Herengracht A3
Hermietenstraat=97 A2
Hoogkamersgang=7 B2
Houtzagersgang=103
A3
Huidenstraat A3
J.W. Siebbeleshof=24 B2
Jeroenensteeg=43 A1
Jonge Roelensteeg A2
Kaatsbaansteeg* A2
Kalfsvelsteeg=53 A3
Kal verstraat A2
Kal vertoren A3
Karnemelksteeg=19 A1
Kattengat A1
Keizerrijk A2
Keizersstraat B2
Kleersloot=14 B2
Klimopstraatje=67 A1
Klooster=15 B3
Kloveniersburgwal B2
Klovenierssteeg=89 B2
Koestraat B2
Koggestraat A1
Kolksteeg A1
Kollegat* B1
Koningsplein A3
Koningsstraat B2
Korte Dijkstraat=38 B2
Korte Kolksteeg A1
Korte
Koningsstraat=119 B2
Korte Korsjespoort-
steeg=80 A1
Korte
Lijnbaanssteeg=52 A1
Korte Niezel B1
Korte Reguliersdwars-
straat=17 B3
Korte
Spinhuissteeg=84 B2
Korte Stormsteeg=121
B1
Kreupelsteeg=74 B2
Krom Boomssloot B2
Kromelleboog-
steeg=66 A2
Kromme Waal B1
Kuiperssteeg A3
Lange Keizersdwars-
straat=48 B2
Lange Niezel B1
Langebrugsteeg=72 A3
Lastageweg B1
Leidekkerssteeg=9 B2
Lijnbaanssteeg=117 A1
Lommertbrug=108 B2
Loodgietersgang* A2
Louwenpoort* A1
Makelaarsbrug-
getje=95 B3
Mandenmakers-steeg
A1
Martelaarsgracht A1
Mattengang* B2
Moddermolen-
straat=99 B2
Molensteeg B1
Molsteeg A2
Monnikendwars-
straat=90 B2
Monnikenstraat B2
Mosterdpotsteeg=47 A2
Mozes En Abonstraat A2
Muntplein B3
Nadorststeeg=93 A2
Nes A2
Nieuwe Doelenstraat B3
Nieuwe Hoefijzergang*
B2
Nieuwe Hoogstraat B2
Nieuwe Jonkerstraat B1
Nieuwe Nieuwstraat A2
Nieuwe Ridderstraat B1
Nieuwe
Spaarpotsteeg=71 A2
Nieuwebrugsteeg B1
Nieuwendijk A2
Nieuwezijds Armsteeg
A1
Nieuwezijds Kolk A1
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal
A2
Nieuwmarkt B2
Ode-Brug B1
Olieslagerssteeg=20 A3
Onkelboerensteeg=23
B2
Onze Lieve
Vrouwesteeg A1
Oosterdokskade B1
Openhartsteeg=56 A3
Ossenspook-steeg=11
A1
Oude Braak A1
Oude Doelenstraat B2
Oude Hoefijzergang* B2
Oude Hoogstraat B2
Oude Nieuwstraat A1
Oude Spiegelstraat A3
Oude Turfmarkt B3
Oude Waal B1
Oudebrugsteeg A1
Oudekennissteeg=76 B1
Oudekerksplein B1
Oudemanhuispoort B3
Oudeschans=68 B2
Oudezijds Achterburgwal
B1
Oudezijds Armsteeg B1
Oudezijds Kolk B1
Oudezijds Voorburgwal B2
Paardenstraat B3
Paleisstraat A2
Panaalsteeg A1
Papenbroekssteeg=31
A2
Papenbrugsteeg=54 A2
Paternostersteeg=51 A1
Pentagon=79 B2
Pieter Jacobszdwars-
straat=113 A2
Pieter Jacobszstraat A2
Pijlsteeg A2
Prins Hendrikkade B1
Prinsenhofssteeg B2
Raadhuisstraat A2
Raadhuisstraat A2
Raamgracht B2
Raamsteeg A3
Ramskooi=106 A1
Recht Boomssloot B1
Reguliersbreestraat B3
Reguliersdwarsstraat
B3
Regulierssteeg=57 B3
Rembrandtplein B3
Rokin A3
Romeinsarmsteeg=34
A3
Romeinsteegje=22 A2
Roomolenstraat=36 A1
Roskamsteeg=70 A3
Rosmarijnsteeg A3
Rotganssteeg* A1
Rozenboomsteeg=73
A3
Rusland B2
Salamandersteeg=116
B2
Schapensteeg B3
Schoorsteenvegers-
steeg=46 A3
Schoutensteeg=6 A2
Servetsteeg A2
S-Gravelandseveer=10
B3
Singel A3
Sint Agnietenstraat B2
Sint Annendwarsstraat*
B2
Sint Annenstraat A2
Sint Antoniesbreestraat
B2
Sint Antoniesluis=37 B2
Sint Barberenstraat=29
A3
Sint Geertruidensteeg
A2
Sint Jacobsdwars-
straat=104 A1
Sint Jacobsstraat A1
Sint Jansbrug=109 B2
Sint Jansstraat A2
Sint Lucinsteeg A3
Sint Nicolaasstraat A2
Sint Olofspoort=114 B1
Sint Olofssteeg* B1
Sint Pietershalsteeg A2
Sint Pieterspoort=86 A2
Sint Pieterspoortsteeg
A2
Sint Pieterssteeg=118
B3
Slaperssteeg=4 B1
Sleeperssteeg=40 B2
Sleutelbrug B3
Slijkstraat B2
Sloterdijksteeg A2
Smaksteeg A1
Smidssteegje=124 B1
Snoekjesgracht B2
Snoekjessteeg=88 B2
Spaarpotsteeg=35 B3
Spijkergang* B2
Spijkersteeg=59 A2
Spinhuissteeg B2
Spooksteeg=102 B1
Spui A3
Spuistraat A2
Staalkade B3
Staalstraat B3
Stationsplein=39 A1
Steenhouwerssteeg=21
A2
Stoofsteeg B2
Stormsteeg=91 B1
Strobossengang* B3
Stromarkt* A1
Suikerbakkerssteeg* A1
T Hol A2
Taksteeg A3
Teerketelsteeg A1
Thorbeckeplein B3
Torensteeg=77 A2
Treeftsteeg=33 A3
Trompettersgang* B2
Trompetterssteeg=42
B2
Turfdraagsterpad B3
Utrechtsestraat B3
Valkensteeg A2
Vendelstraat B3
Verversstraat B3
Vijzelstraat B3
Vliegendesteeg=62 A3
Voetboogstraat A3
Vredenburger-
steeg=101 B1
Vrouwengang* A3
Waalsteeg B1
Walenpleintje=123 B2
Warmoesstraat A1
Waterlooplein=3 B2
Waterpoortsteeg=115
B1
Watersteeg A3
Wijde Heisteeg A3
Wijde Kapelsteeg A3
Wijde Kerksteeg A1
Wijde Lombardsteeg=65
A2
Wijdesteeg A3
Wijngaardsstraatje=16
B1
Wittepaardsteeg=122
B1
Wol venstraat=2 A3
Zakgang* A2
Zakslootje=28 B2
Zanddwarsstraat B2
Zandstraat B2
Zeedijk B1
Zil versmidsgang=120 A1
Zoutenhaansteeg=81 A3
Zoutsteeg A2
Zuiderkerkhof B2
Zwanenburgwal B3
Zwartehandsteeg=30 A2
Zwartlakensteeg B2

Amsterdam

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