DESIGNING JEWELRY

with semiprecious beads

Stringing instructions and techniques

for necklaces, bracelets, and much more

KIM GOVER
2 ABOUT BEADS
Amethyst
Typical colors: all kinds of purples
ranging between lavender, rose,
and magenta.
Popular forms: round and faceted
beads, chips, drop beads, and pendants
in all shapes.
Relative cost: $$
Companions: silver, glass beads or other
quartz crystals—rose quartz is a subtle
pink hue.
THE FACTS
Amethyst is from the quartz species of
stones, which is the largest gemstone
family, and one of the most widely used in
jewelry making because of its affordable
and beautiful appeal.
Amethyst can be found in a variety of
purple shades, from light lavender or rose
to the intense deep Siberian amethyst,
which reflects a magenta color.
These deeper shades are often more
expensive than the lighter ones.
Amethyst is available
in lots of pretty cut-
pendant shapes.
Lapis Lazuli
Typical colors: brilliant blue to denim
color, with gold or silver colored specks.
Popular forms: beads, cabachons, chips,
rough-shaped nuggets, and pendants set
in metal. Beads tend to be squared rather
than round.
Relative cost: $$$
Companions: set off by yellow-hued
amber or citrine, looks equally good with
bronze or copper colors.
THE FACTS
Lapis Lazuli is an intense opaque blue. It
often contains small gold or silver mineral
deposits, which run like veins through
the stone.
The finest quality lapis has an even blue
color without the mineral specks. It has
the best depth of shade and is more
expensive because of this.
Lapis is commonly dyed to try and recreate
the more pricey varieties. If you buy the
more expensive types of lapis get it from
a reputable dealer to avoid fakes.
Turquoise
Typical colors: traditionally sky blue;
but turquoise comes in all kinds of blues
through yellow greens, with a brown
“matrix” of veins and patches.
Popular forms: available in a range of
forms—it’s relatively light in comparison
to other stones, so quite large stones and
pendants are popular too.
Relative cost: $$
Companions: silver is a traditional
partner, but gold can look striking.
THE FACTS
Watch out for reconstructed or treated
turquoise which will be cheaper than
original stones.
It is a light stone, which makes it ideal
for chunkier jewelry. Unfortunately this
also means that it can crumble and mark
easily, so if you are stringing, make knots
between the beads.
The color of turquoise can range from
china blue and deep blue to blue-green,
dark greeny blue and yellowish green.
Turquoise goes with all
kinds of colors—yellow
beads bring out the
greener shades.

Aquamarine
Typical colors: from sea green to sky blue;
even some darker blues.
Popular forms: rough and polished chips,
round, squared, and faceted beads.
Relative cost: $$
Companions: a darker blue or green will
bring out the hues—try apatite or green
chrysoprase. Aquamarine is popularly
twinned with mother of pearl and silver.
THE FACTS
Aquamarine is closely related to emeralds.
Aquamarine can be found in sparkling
sea green, sky blue and dark blue. Sky
blue and dark blue have become the most
desirable (and the most costly option).
It has become popular to heat treat the
stone to give it a better color blue.
Although less highly valued, gemstone
chips can be used in bulk to great
effect. Here, the amazonite chips
are set on zigzag-shaped wire
separated by “gimp” or bullion
(see page 23).
Amazonite
Typical colors: blue to blue-green.
Popular forms: round beads, chips,
and pebbles.
Relative cost: $
Companions: set off well by smoky quartz
colors, such as Cat’s eye.
THE FACTS
Amazonite is an attractive opaque stone
that, due to the presence of lead, is either
an irregular striped blue and white or a
solid blue-green color.
Amazonite can also occur in yellow, pink,
red, and gray, but blue-green is the most
popular and widely seen.
The stone has a vitreous luster, but can
also possess a lovely “silk” or sheen.
It normally appears in bead form, as it
can be sensitive to pressure.
SEMIPRECIOUS STONES 3
Serpentine
Typical colors: blue-green to
yellow-green.
Popular forms: typically round beads;
carved pendants are also common.
Relative cost: $
Companions: set off well by smoky quartz
colors, such as Cat’s eye.
THE FACTS
Serpentine, which is also commonly
known as “new jade,” is a versatile stone.
Commonly sold in a range of greens, it
can include patches or markings of white,
black, and yellow.
The stone is called “serpentine” because
of its color and markings, which resemble
those found on snakes.
It is said by mystics to help with emotional
cleansing, psychic powers, and attract love
and money.
Despite being known as true jade's poor
relation, the stone can stand alone as a
pretty, affordable alternative.
 BRACELETS 5

Black Onyx
BEAD STORE

1 dark green handmade lampworked

glass bead, approximately 12 x 10mm

2 black onyx 4mm round beads
 4 black onyx 8mm round beads
 6 Swarovski crystal emerald
Handmade lampworked beads, black onyx,
Austrian crystals, and Hill Tribe silver
are the special ingredients in this lovely
bracelet. It is a real classic and will never go
out of fashion. Unusually with a piece using
so much silver, it has been strung and is
F G H

6mm bicone beads balanced with just the right ratio of beads to
silver to enhance the beauty of the beads.
 2 Hill Tribe silver curved tubes E

 4 Hill Tribe silver 8mm bead caps

 4 Hill Tribe silver 6mm coiled beads D C B A

 4 Sterling silver 3mm round beads

You will also need:

1 Hill Tribe silver 11mm toggle clasp M
Beading wire M 2mm sterling silver tube
crimp beads and crimp covers

Classic with gemstones and silver
BEAD STORE
12 8mm round gemstone beads

1 15mm silver lentil bead
 2 4mm round beads
 2 10mm hammered round rings
Simple elegance, using just round gemstone beads
and silver. The beauty of the gemstones is really being
underlined in this design. The gemstones used include
You will also need:
onyx, chrysoprane, golden jade, red garnet, and carnelian.
1 12 mm silver toggle
clasp M Approximately
10in. of Tiger Tail beading
wire M 2 silver 2mm crimp
beads M 2 silver 4mm
crimp covers

 2 7mm silver beads

 8 8mm silver bead caps
 8 5mm silver daisy spacer beads

D
G F E
C
A

B
6 THE DESIGNS

Sea theme
BEAD STORE

20 green moss-quartz 8mm round beads

12 apatite 8mm round beads
 6 white freshwater pearls, approximately 7mm
 2 Hill Tribe silver 12mm shell beads
 2 Hill Tribe silver shell charm
 1 Hill Tribe silver starfish charm
 1 large Hill Tribe silver shell pendant
 35 sterling silver 2mm round beads
You will also need:
4cm of sterling silver extension chain
M
1 sterling silver
9mm trigger clasp
M
Beading wire M
2mm sterling
silver tube crimp beads and crimp covers
This necklace is a wonderful interpretation of the sea.
Green moss-quartz and apatite beads have been combined
with white freshwater pearls and Hill Tribe silver sea-life
beads. A fantastic silver shell completes the design. There
is a really good balance between gemstone beads and
silver in this strung necklace. Besides from the sea-life
silver beads, the gemstone beads have been separated by
tiny sterling silver spacer beads. An extension chain with a
silver shell charm has been added as an extra detail.
 P END ANTS 7

Lapis Luzuli
B EA D ST ORE

A 22 lapis lazuli 7 x 10mm rectangular beads

B 8 blue goldstone 8mm round beads

C 16 gold filled 3mm round beads

D 14 gold vermeil 5mm flower spacer beads

E 1 blue goldstone and gold pendant,

approximately 1 X 1¼in. (2.5 x 3cm)
D

You will also need:

1 gold vermeil 12mm toggle clasp l B eading wire l 2mm
H gold filled tube crimp beads and crimp covers

This fascinating necklace has an air of ancient E gypt.

It has been created with lovely lapis lazuli rectangular
B
beads and blue goldstone round beads—each bead
A separated by gold vermeil spacer beads and gold filled
round beads. The wonderful blue goldstone and gold
E
pendant, and the gold vermeil toggle clasp bring harmony
to the finished necklace.

D
A B C D

E
 DESIGNING JEWELRY
with semiprecious beads
Discover how to string beautiful pieces using semiprecious stones:
including quartz, turquoise, peridot, moonstone, amber, coral, and carnelian.
Select the most beautiful stone beads, choosing just the right number and size to guarantee a harmoniously proportioned piece.

Get inspired to make your unique combinations, learning which gemstones complement each other, which order to string them,
and how to combine them with simple knots, sterling silver findings, crimp beads, spacers, or wire twists.

Packed with over 90 examples from international bead artists, each example is “deconstructed” so you can see the exact
type and quantity of bead that goes into its creation, and re-create it.

KIM GOVER runs her own lampworking studio and has been making Paperbound, 8¾ x 8¾, 128 pages
her own jewelry for three years. Her favorite materials are semipre- 250 photographs
ISBN 978-1-59668-104-0
cious gemstones, teamed with sterling silver and crystals. She sells $24.95
her work at craft fairs, private parties, and online. February 2009