Introduction and Background of topic

Apparel Industry in Pakistan Pakistan with total exports of around US$ 1 billion has a meager share of 1% in the global apparel market. The apparel export product mix from Pakistan is heavily tilted towards men's wear and knitted garments. The Garment Industry provides highest value addition in Textile Sector. This industry is distributed in small, medium and large scale units most of them having 50 machines and below; large units .The industry enjoys the facilities of duty free import of machinery and income tax exemption . The Apparel sector of textile Industry is one of the fastest growing areas of our economy and has great socio-economic significance. The Apparel Industry long the mainstay of Pakistan's economy stands at the cross roads. A combination of factors ranging from high raw material prices to increasing competition in the global market place is forcing both, our industrialists and our planners, to place greater emphasis on increasing productivity and enhancing quality.

The textile industry has been the driving force behind the manufacturing sector growth of Pakistan. This sector accounts for nearly 60% of total exports for Pakistan, 46% of total manufacturing produce and employs 38% of the total manufacturing labor force. Textile trade is classified into two broad categories i.e. textile which include yarn, fabric and madeups and clothing which represents ready-made garments. The largest growing sector within the global textiles trade has been the apparel sector trade in this sector in 1999 accounted for 53% of the total value of global textile trade. Over the last decade, the apparel trade has surpassed the trade in textile products such as yarns and fabrics. In the year 2000 total trade in textiles was $157 billion and trade in clothing was $199 billion. There was a switch in trade patterns after 1985 when clothing became more significant as compared to textiles. This sector lies at the pinnacle of the textile value chain, which begins with cotton and synthetic fibers. South Asian countries have established themselves as the most important players in the textile sector.

The apparel industry includes a diversity of fashion products,types, volumes of production and manufacturing environment, therefore, technology applied to apparel sewing increasingly demands versatility and quick response. The management of apparel manufacturers are relatively uncertain in respect of quality and with the advent of advanced technology, the relationship between the raw material properties, sewing performance and seam quality becomes very important. Fabric and sewing thread is the basic raw material of apparel industry. Characteristic of the raw material influences the seam quality of the garment. The apparel designers are primarily interested in the raw material properties for high seam quality and consumer is mainly interested in appearance, comfort, and wearability of the garment. Proper selection of raw material not only gives comfort to the wearer but also helps in smooth working of manufacturing process and lead to defect free garment The apparel companies are concerned about properties of fabrics used in apparel manufacturing, because the fabric is the prime raw material in apparel industry. The properties of fabric used in apparel manufacturing can be classified in two groups: primary properties and secondary properties. A primary property is considered as a static physical dimension, whereas a secondary property is the reaction of the fabric when a force is imposed upon it. With the introduction of very high speed sewing machines, automatic line production systems and increasing consumer demands for good quality apparel, excellent fabric for apparel industry may be defined by following properties [2]: 1. Good color, design, and excellent handle. 2. High tailorability. 3. Good wearability and durability.

Fabric quality is one of the primary requirements for production of high seam quality in apparel. Fabric quality alone does not fulfill all the criteria for the production of high quality garment. The conversion of a two dimensional fabric into a three dimensional garment involves many other interactions, such as selection of suitable sewing thread, optimization of sewing parameters, ease of conversion of fabric into garment and actual performance of the sewn fabric during wear of garment.[3] Sewing thread is also a prime contributory factor for satisfactory seam quality.

Correct selection of sewing thread requires consideration of its properties in the completed garment under conditions of wear and cleaning

Thus the sewability and seam quality of sewing thread is largely influenced by three factors.[3] i. ii. iii. The material to be sewn. The sewing technique. The end use or the application of the sewn material