SEMESTER VI CORE PRACTICAL XII MENS APPAREL PRACTICAL II Designing, drafting and constructing the following garments for

for the features prescribed List the Measurements required and Materials suitable Calculate the cost of the garment Calculate the material required lay out method and direct measurement method 1. Pleated trousers pleats in front, darts at back, side pocket, fly with button /zip. 2. Bell bottom trousers pleat less, bellbottom, side pocket, fly with button/ zip 3. Boxer shorts 4. Bermudas 5. Jeans tight fitting, jeans, cut, with pockets 6. Pyjama elastic/tape attached waist, with fly 7. S.B.Coat coat collar, coat sleeve, pocket Reference: Scientific Garment quality K.M.Illege and sons Plot No.43, Somuvar Peth, Pune 411 011. Easy cutting Juvekar, Commercial Tailors Coporation Pvt. Limited , 166, Dr.Ambedkar Road, Dadar. Commercial system of cutting, - Juvekar, Commercial Tailors Coporation Pvt. Limited , 166, Dr.Ambedkar Road, Dadar. Zarapker System of cutting, - K.R. Zarapker, Naveent Publications Limited, Dress making smt. Thangam Subramaniam, Bombay tailoring and embroidery college, 32 North park street, Ambattur, Chennai. Practical clothing construction part and II Mary Mathews, Cosmic Press, Chennai.

Pleated trouser

Introduction: Pants (trousers) are prepared in many styles and fashions, but the cutting principles are the same. Pants are also called as slacks. Pleated pants are generally prepared with four pleats (two on each side) and two darts (one on each side at the back). The front pleat is always kept wider than the side one. It is prepared with waist band, with an arrangement of loops. The bottoms are either plain or with permanent turn-ups. Side pockets are either vertical or slanting. Features: Pleats in front, Darts at back, Side pocket, Fly with button /zip Suitable Material: 100% cotton, Polyester, cotton polyester, twill, polyester blend. Measurement Required: Full length Inside leg Waist Circumference Seat Circumference Bottom Circumference Thigh Circumference Belt width 104cm (41") 73cm (29") 76cm (30") 92cm (36") 43 cm (17") 45cm (18") 4cm (1")

Material Required: Measurement method: = 2length + in turns = 2 (41) + 2" = 84" Layout Method: The total length of the fabric required = Instructions for drafting: Front: Square lines from 0 1-0 = full length less belt width plus " 2-1 = inside leg + " 3-2 = half inside leg - 2" Square lines from all these points 4-2 = seat + 1" 5-0 = same as 4 to 2 Join 4-5 6-4 = one-twelfth seat 7-2 = same as 6 to 4 Join 6-7 8-5 = waist + 3" for pleats and seams Shape 8-7 as shown 9-4 = one-twelfth seat less " 10-4 = seat + " Strike a line midway across the angle 10- 4- 9 11-4 = half of 9-4 plus " Shape fork 10- 11- 9

12 is midway of 9 to 2 Square down from 12 -13- 14 17-14 = bottom 18-14 = same as 17 to 14 19-9 = " Join 19-17 and shape 9-15 16-13 = same as 15 to 13 Join 16-18 and shape 7-16 20 is squared up from 12 21-5 = " Shape 20-21 22-20 = 1" for pleat 23 is midway of 22 to 8 Suppress 1" in the pleat at 23 24-14 and 25-24 = each 1" for turn ups 26-25 = 1" Draw lines parallel to 17-18 from points 24,25 and 26 Mark pocket at a distance of 1" below 8 Pocket opening = one-sixth seat Back: 27-9 = 2 to 2" 28-15 = 1" 29-17 = 1" Shape 27-28 and join 28-29 30-10 = 1" for seat angle. This quantity should be increased for an erect figure and reduced for a stooping figure Join 19-30 and produce to 31-32 32-31 = 1 to 1" according to flat or prominent seat 33-27 = " Shape fork 30-33 as shown

34-32 = waist + 1" Draw side seam 34- 16- 18 35-34 = one-twelfth seat + " 36 is squared down from 35 and equals 3" Add 4 to 4" below 18-29 for turn ups Fly: The fly to be attached at the centre front of pants should be drafted as follows Use the front fork curve and draw the shape 1- 2- 3 as shown in the accompanying figure. 4-1 = nearly 2" 5-2 = same as 4 to 1 6-3 = " Shape 4- 5- 6 Waist band: 1-2 = waist + 1" 3-1 = 1" or taste 4-2 = same as 3 to 1 Join 3-4. 5-2 = " 6-4 = same as 5 to 2 Join 5-6 7-5 = same as 3 to 1 8-2 and 9-4 = one-sixth waist Shape 5-8 and 7-9 Draw 10-11 at a distance of 1" from 1-3, the extension for the right side. If the extended belt is desired, extend the left side to 12-13 which is 3 to 5" from 1-3

Components: Front Back Waist Band 2 2 2

Fly Opening 3 Construction Details: Finish the pleats and construct the side seam pockets on either side Finish the fly opening by joining the left and right front pieces Construct the darts at the back Finish the side seams by joining the front and back part of each side respectively Finish the crotch seam Attach the waist band with loops Finish the hem Attach the fasteners

Cost of calculation Material cost = 120 Thread cost Canvas cost = = 2 5 3

Fasteners cost =

Stitching cost = 70 Total = 200

Bell bottom trousers

Introduction: These pants are prepared with narrow knee and flared down from knee to hem to give the bell shaped effect that is its upper portion from waist to knee is kept like ordinary pants, while the lower one is kept very wide. Both men and women wear this type of pants. These pants with wide legs are very popular among youngsters. The accompanying draft is of the plain top that is waist belt attached without taking pleats. Features: Pleat less, Bell bottom, Side pocket/hip pocket, Fly with button /zip Suitable Material: 100% cotton, Polyester, cotton polyester, twill, polyester blend. Measurement Required: Full length Inside leg Waist Circumference Seat Circumference Knee round Bottom Circumference Thigh Circumference Belt width 104cm (41") 73cm (29") 76cm (30") 92cm (36") 48cm (19 ") 60 cm (24") 45cm (18") 5cm (2 ")

Material Required: Measurement method: = 2length + in turns = 2 (41) + 2" = 84" Layout Method: The total length of the fabric required = Instructions for drafting: Front: Square lines from 0 1-0= full length less belt width plus " 2-1 = inside leg + " 3-2 = half inside leg - 2" Square lines from all these points 4-2 = seat + 1" 5-0 = same as 4 to 2 Join 5-4 6-5 = " Join 6-4 7-4 = one-twelfth seat 8-2 = same as 7 to 4 Join 7-8 9-6 = waist + " 10-4 = one-twelfth seat less " or to taste 11-4 = half of 10-4 plus " Shape fork 6- 7- 11- 10 12 is midway of 2 to 10

13-14 is squared down from 12 15-13 and 16-13 = each knee round (or) bottom less 1" (or) to taste 17-14 = bottom 18-14 = same as 17 to 14 Shape 9- 8- 16 Join 16-18 and 15-17 19-10 = " Join 19-15 Shape 10-15 Back: 20-10 = one-twelfth seat less to 1" 21-15 = 1" 22-17 = 1" Shape 20-21 and join 21-22 23-4 = one-sixth seat Join 19-23 and produce to 24-25 25-24 = 1" 26-20 = " Shape 25- 24- 23- 26 27-25 = waist + 1" Join 25-27 28-23 = Seat + 1" Shape 27-28-16 outside seam 29-27 = one-twelfth seat less " 30-29 = one-twelfth seat take darts " wide and 3" long at 29 and 30 each Mark pockets with 4" opening below the darts Keep 2" to 3" below 17-18 and 22-18 for in turns

Fly: The fly to be attached at the centre front of pants should be drafted as follows Use the front fork curve and draw the shape 1- 2- 3 as shown in the accompanying figure. 4-1 = nearly 2" 5-2 = same as 4 to 1 6-3 = " Shape 4- 5- 6 Waist band: 1-2 = waist + 1" 3-1 = 1" or taste 4-2 = same as 3 to 1 Join 3-4. 5-2 = " 6-4 = same as 5 to 2 Join 5-6 7-5 = same as 3 to 1 8-2 and 9-4 = one-sixth waist Shape 5-8 and 7-9 Draw 10-11 at a distance of 1" from 1-3, the extension for the right side. If the extended belt is desired, extend the left side to 12-13 which is 3 to 5" from 1-3 Components: Front Back Waist Band 2 2 2

Fly Opening 3

Construction Details: Construct the side seam pockets on either side Finish the fly opening by joining the left and right front pieces Construct the darts at the back Finish the side seams by joining the front and back part of each side respectively Finish the crotch seam Attach the waist band with loops Finish the hem Attach the fasteners

Cost of calculation Material cost = 120 Thread cost Canvas cost = = 2 5 3

Fasteners cost =

Stitching cost = 70 Total = 200

Boxer shorts

Introduction: Boxer shorts are mostly worn as a sports wear. It is designed to give more comfort to the wearer. It is worn till knee length or a little above the knees. Boxer shorts are finished with elastic waist band. Boxers allow for more freedom in the selection of a fabric type and print design. Features: Elastic attached Pocket Suitable Material: 100% cotton, Polyester, cotton polyester, jersey knit, polyester blend. Measurement Required: Full length Waist circumference Seat circumference Material Required: Measurement method: = 2length + in turns = 2 (16) + 2" = 34" Layout Method: The total length of the fabric required = 16" 30" 36"

Components: Front Back 2 2

Instructions for drafting: Front: Square lines from 0 1-0 = seat + 3" = 9+3 =12" 2-0 = full length + " = 16+" = 16" 3-1 = seat + 1" 4-0 = same as 3 to 1 Join 3-4 5-3 = one-twelfth seat = 3" 6-3 = one-sixth seat = 6" 7-3 = of 5-3 + " Shape 4-6-7-5 8-2 = 5-1 less " or half of bottom Shape inside seam 5-8 Back: 9-5 = 1 " 10-5 = " Join 4-10 11-10 = same as 6-3 Shape fork 11-9 as shown 12-4 = " Join 0-12 13-8 = 1 " Shape inside seam 9-13 Keep 1 " above 0-4 and 0-12 for casing Keep 1 " below 2-8 and 2-13 for in turns

Construction Details: Finish the side seams by joining the front and back part of each side respectively Finish the crotch seam Finish the waist with elastic Finish the hem

Cost of calculation Material cost = 30 Thread cost Elastic cost = 2 = 3

Stitching cost = 30 Total = 65

Boxer shorts

12 0 4

Boxer shorts 11 6

(Cut - 2) 7 9 5 10 3

straight grain

Front & Back

13

Bermudas
Introduction: Bermuda shorts, also known as walking shorts or dress shorts, are a particular type of short trousers, now widely worn as semi-casual attire by both men and women. These Bermudas are worn as evening wear mainly used in leisure time. It is mainly finished with elastic or cord at the waist. Usually pockets are attached on either side of front and back. Features: Elastic or cord attached Pocket Suitable Material: 100% cotton, plain/printed, Polyester, cotton polyester, jersey knit, polyester blend. Measurement Required: Full length Waist circumference Seat circumference Bottom round Material Required: Measurement method: = 2length + in turns = 2 (20) + 2" = 42" Layout Method: 20" 30" 36" 20"

The total length of the fabric required = Components: Front Back Pocket 2 2 2

Instructions for drafting: Front: Square lines from 0 1-0 = seat + 3" 2-0 = full length + " 3-1 = seat + 1 " 4-0 = same as 3 to 1 Join 3-4 5-3 = one-twelfth seat 6-3 = one-sixth seat 7-3 = of 5-3 + " Shape fork 6-7-5 8-2 = 5-1 less " or half of bottom 9-5 = " join 9-8 Shape inside seam 5-10 as shown Back: 5-11 = 1 " Join 4-9 12- 9 = same as 6-3 Shape fork 12-11 as shown 13-4 = " Join 0-13 14-8 = 1 "

Shape inside seam 9-14 Keep 1 " above 0-4 and 0-13 for casing Keep 1 " below 2-8 and 2-14 for in turns Construction Details: Finish the side seams by joining the front and back part of each side respectively Finish the crotch seam Finish the waist with elastic Finish the hem

Cost of calculation Material cost = 65 Thread cost Elastic cost = 2 = 3

Stitching cost = 30 Total = 100

Bermudas
13 0 4

Bermudas 12 6

(Cut - 2) 7 11 5 9 3

straight grain

Front & Back

10

14

Jeans

Introduction: Jeans (also called Levis or Cow Boy Pants) are very popular among youngsters. They are similar to narrow pants. They are generally kept tight from thigh to bottom, but some also prefer bell bottom. There wont be any pleats at the front and darts at the back. The darts are concealed in the yoke which is kept at the back. Flat fell seam is mostly used. Contrast color thread adds decoration to the garment. It is mostly subjected to rough use, so it is also called as work cloth. Features: Tight fitting, Jeans cut, Pockets. Suitable Material: Denim, Corduroy, suede, etc Measurement Required: Full length Inside leg Waist Circumference Seat Circumference Knee round Bottom Circumference Thigh Circumference Belt width 104cm (41") 73cm (29") 76cm (30") 92cm (36") 48cm (19 ") 43 cm (17") 45cm (18") 5cm (2 ")

Material Required: Measurement method: = 2length + in turns = 2 (41) + 2" = 84" Layout Method: The total length of the fabric required = Components: Front Back Yoke Pocket 2 2 2 2

Instructions for drafting: Front: Square lines from 0 1-0= full length less belt width plus " 2-1 = inside leg + " 3-2 = half inside leg - 2" Square lines from all these points 4-2 = seat + 1" 5-0 = same as 4 to 2 Join 5-4 6-5 = " Join 6-4 7-4 = one-twelfth seat 8-2 = same as 7 to 4 Join 7-8

9-6 = waist + " 10-4 = one-twelfth seat less " or to taste 11-4 = half of 10-4 plus " Shape fork 6- 7- 11- 10 12 is midway of 2 to 10 13-14 is squared down from 12 15-13 and 16-13 = each knee round (or) bottom less 1" (or) to taste 17-14 = bottom 18-14 = same as 17 to 14 Shape 9- 8- 16 Join 16-18 and 15-17 19-10 = " Join 19-15 Shape 10-15 Back: No darts are taken at waist 20-10 = one-twelfth seat less to 1" 21-15 = 1" 22-17 = 1" Shape 20-21 and join 21-22 23-4 = one-sixth seat Join 19-23 and produce to 24-25 25-24 = 1" 26-20 = " Shape 25- 24- 23- 26 27-25 = waist + 1" Join 25-27 28-23 = Seat + 1" Shape 27-28-16 outside seam 29-27 = one-twelfth seat less "

30-29 = one-twelfth seat Yoke: 27 A = 1" 25 B = 3 to 3" Join and cut on line A-B Add about " at C and shape A- C- B Keep about to " outside A- C- B on both the sides for seams. Fly: The fly to be attached at the centre front of pants should be drafted as follows Use the front fork curve and draw the shape 1- 2- 3 as shown in the accompanying figure. 4-1 = nearly 2" 5-2 = same as 4 to 1 6-3 = " Shape 4- 5- 6 Waist band: 1-2 = waist + 1" 3-1 = 1" or taste 4-2 = same as 3 to 1 Join 3-4. 5-2 = " 6-4 = same as 5 to 2 Join 5-6 7-5 = same as 3 to 1 8-2 and 9-4 = one-sixth waist Shape 5-8 and 7-9 Draw 10-11 at a distance of 1" from 1-3, the extension for the right side.

Construction Details: Yoke part is attached to the right and left back pieces. Patch pockets are attached at the back Finish the pockets at the front Finish the fly with the zip Join the front and back side seam Finish the crotch seam Finish the inside leg seam Finish the bottom hem Finish the waist band with loops Attach the fasteners

Cost of calculation Material cost = 125 Thread cost Fasteners = 3 = 12

Stitching cost = 60 Total = 200

Pyjama
Introduction: Pyjama is a loose fitting trouser. It can be used as an indoor or outdoor garment. It is worn with kurthas, night shirt, slack shirt or T-shirt. It is usually prepared with a casing arrangement for inserting a cloth tape at the waist. If it is prepared with a fly-button arrangement, waist round should be reduced. The bottom round of a night dress Pyjama should be little less when compared to an outdoor Pyjama. If required, attach one pocket on the right side or two pockets on both the sides. Features: Elastic or tape attached waist Suitable Material: Cotton, printed, polyester cotton, poplin and cambric. Measurement Required: Full length Seat Circumference Bottom Circumference 92cm (36") 76cm (30") 60 cm (24")

Material Required: Measurement method: = 2length + in turns = 2 (36) + 2" = 74"

Layout Method: The total length of the fabric required = Components: Front Back 2 2

Instructions for drafting: Front: Draw line 0- 1- 2 at a distance of " from the selvedge 1-0 = seat + 3" 2-0 = full length + " 3-1 = seat + 2" 4-0 = same as 3 to 1 Join 3-4 5-3 = one-twelfth seat 6-3 = one-sixth seat 7-3 = half of 5-3 + " shape fork 6- 7- 5 8-2 = same as 5 to 1 less " or half bottom 9-5 = " Join 9-8 and shape 5-10 as shown Back: 11-0 = seat + 1" Join 9-11 and produce 1" to 12 Join 12-0 13-5 = 1" Shape fork 11- 14- 13 as shown 15-8 = 1" Shape inseam 13-15 Keep 1" above 0-4 and 0-12 for casing

Keep 2" below 2-8 and 2-15 for inturns Pocket marks: 16-0 = 3" 17-16 = one-sixth seat Construction Details: Attach the front and back pieces along the side seam Finish the front and back crotch seam Finish the hem Finish the inside leg seam by joining front and back Finish the waist band with elastic or tape

Cost of calculation Material cost = 65 Thread cost Elastic cost = 2 = 3

Stitching cost = 30 Total = 100

S.B.Coat
Introduction: S.B.Coat is a sleeved outer garment or jacket worn directly over the shirt or over vest. It is a two button single breast coat with step collar. It has two double jetted cut pockets, with flaps and one welt breast pocket. It can be worn as a formal or informal wear. The sleeve is of two pieces, which is having a seam along underneath and a seam at the back. It may be with or without vents. Vents can be placed either at the side seam or centre back. Features: Coat collar, Coat sleeve, Pocket Suitable Material: Cotton, polyester cotton, wool blend, cotton blends. Measurement Required: Chest Circumference Waist Circumference Seat Circumference Full length Waist length Half back Shoulder Sleeve with shoulder 92cm (36") 82cm (32") 96cm (38") 76cm (30") 41cm (16") 19cm (7") 21.5cm (8") 80cm (31")

Material Required: Measurement method: = 2length + in turns = 2 (30) + 2" = 62" Layout Method: The total length of the fabric required = Components: Front Back Collar Sleeve 2 2 2 4

Construction Details: Stitch the dart and finish the pockets in the front pieces Finish the pockets in the front lining Join the back pieces along the centre back in both lining and coat piece Join the shoulders Prepare the sleeves with lining and join it to the body part Prepare the collar and join it to the neck part Now attach the front side lining to the facing Attach the fasteners

Cost of calculation Material cost = 400 Lining cost Canvas cost Thread cost = 60 = 60 = 5

Fasteners cost = 15

Stitching cost = 700 Total = 1240