Professional Documents
Culture Documents
DI0251 9
PHOTOJOURNALISM I
PHOTOJOURNALISM I
EDITION 9
5 Credit hours
SUBCOURSE OVERVIEW
There are no prerequisites for this subcourse; however, you may want to take
Basic Photography for Journalists, D10250, and TEC Lesson 570-214-1098-A,
Develop Black and White Film.
This Subcourse reflects the doctrine which was current at the time the
subcourse was prepared. In your own work situation, always refer to the
latest publications.
The words "he," "him," "his," and "men," when used in this publication,
represent both the masculine and feminine genders unless otherwise stated.
Task: In this subcourse you will learn how to obtain and record
cutline information, how to write a photograph cutline, how
to crop and scale a photograph, and how to establish a
field photographic darkroom.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION Page
SUBCOURSE OVERVIEW.................................................... i
INTRODUCTION....................................................... 2
DEPTH OF FIELD..................................................... 6
ISOLATING A SUBJECT................................................ 7
COMPOSITION........................................................ 10
STOPPING ACTION.................................................... 22
Practice Exercise.................................................. 24
Answer Key......................................................... 26
INTRODUCTION....................................................... 28
WHAT TO RECORD..................................................... 30
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FILING CUTLINE INFORMATION......................................... 33
Practice Exercise.................................................. 34
Answer Key......................................................... 36
INTRODUCTION....................................................... 38
Practice Exercise.................................................. 44
Answer Key......................................................... 46
INTRODUCTION....................................................... 48
CROPPING........................................................... 46
SAFEGUARD INFORMATION.............................................. 47
DISTRACTIONS....................................................... 50
DEAD SPACE......................................................... 50
AESTHETICS......................................................... 51
SHAPES............................................................. 52
CROPPING L's....................................................... 53
PHOTO DIMENSIONS................................................... 53
SCALING............................................................ 55
ESTABLISHING PERCENTAGES........................................... 58
GUIDELINING ARTWORK................................................ 58
Practice Exercise.................................................. 60
Answer Key......................................................... 62
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Lesson 5: ESTABLISH A FIELD PHOTOGRAPHIC DARKROOM................... 63
INTRODUCTION....................................................... 64
MANNING REQUIREMENTS............................................... 65
PACKING............................................................ 66
PACKING LIST....................................................... 67
DEPLOY............................................................. 69
TENT DARKROOM...................................................... 71
SET UP ENLARGER.................................................... 72
SET UP SAFELIGHTS.................................................. 72
STORE SUPPLIES..................................................... 72
MIX CHEMICALS...................................................... 74
COLD TEMPERATURES.................................................. 75
HOT TEMPERATURES................................................... 76
Practice Exercise.................................................. 80
Answer Key......................................................... 82
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LESSON ONE
UNDERSTANDING PHOTOJOURNALISM
46Q Soldiers' Manual Task: None.
OVERVIEW
TASK DESCRIPTION:
LEARNING OBJECTIVE:
REFERENCES: The material contained in this lesson was derived from the
following publications:
STP 46-46Q14-SM-TG
DINFOS Journalism Handbook
AR 360-81
ACCP SS0193
ACCP SS0516
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UNDERSTANDING PHOTOJOURNALISM
INTRODUCTION
Photojournalism is a form of journalism in which a story or news item is
communicated largely by means of pictures.
A well-written news story, containing all the facts, will suffice for
telling the reader what happened, where it happened, who was involved, etc.
But, this is only if the reader reads the story. Display elements must be
offered to attract the reader's attention to the story, such as headlines,
artwork and photographs. By sheer impact, a good photograph will attract a
reader's attention faster than most headlines or art work. In addition, it
reinforces the information contained in the written account or presents new
information that is not written. Headlines are seldom remembered from day
to day. News stories, too, fade from memory rapidly, but the "you are
there" aspect of a good news photograph may live in one's memory for years
to come. Remember the photograph of Jack Ruby shooting Lee Harvey Oswald?
How about the headlines or even one sentence of the lead? The military
photojournalist fulfills his mission as a vital member of the military
establishment either as a photographer or as a photo editor. As a military
photojournalist, his mission is to take, process and print photographs for
publication.
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Know Your Subject
Think of people you have known and select some of the differences between
them. The obvious fact is that "all people are different." To photograph
people, you must understand their individual differences and explore "in
depth" the world in which they live and work. Not the world, but their
world.
Some questions you will have to ask yourself and your subject are:
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Army subjects will be more interesting to soldiers if-the subject matter
lends itself to their particular "world." Farmers read the almanac and
"Farmer's Weekly." Soldiers read "Army Times" and the post newspaper (among
other things). Generally, people look for newspapers, magazines, and
articles that affect their lives or is related to their work.
With this in mind you must know the many different outlets for your work and
slant each shooting session toward that "target audience." Armed with this
information, you can communicate with viewers concerning timely subjects of
interest to them.
Leafing through a magazine, do you stop and examine some photographs more
closely than others? What makes us stop and look at a photograph more
closely? It might be the subject matter, the composition, the color or lack
of color that attracts us.
Stopping Power
The majority of photographs depict ordinary people and events, subjects that
are all too familiar. Without stopping power, photographs of such subjects
would go unnoticed in a mass of pictures --and "unnoticed" in photography is
a wasted effort, a worthless product.
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o using an unusual treatment that makes commonplace subject matter
graphically exciting.
Unusual subjects make good photographs and are simple to produce due to
their attraction, but unusual subjects are difficult to find.
When shooting for publication, you must try for "stopping power" in your
photographs to cause the viewer to look at your work.
Impact in Photographs
Stopping power has gotten the attention of the viewer. Now you must give
him something to view with interest and emotion, something to hold his
attention.
"Impact" can be defined as holding power, stopping power that affects the
observer visually and emotionally. Impact depends upon the content --the
visual meaning --of the photograph. When a photograph has emotional
stopping power or impact, it commands a deeper kind of attention. A
photograph of a child crying, sitting in trash and rubble has stopping
power, but when you stop, look, and begin to get a small measure of life in
the ghetto, you are experiencing impact in photography. Stopping power
makes you look, but "impact" gives you the emotional feeling.
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Before you can create photographs with impact, you must first have a genuine
interest in the subject. If you do not have a reaction to your subject, you
won't produce work that contains any emotional quality. An observer seeing
such work will remain unaffected.
DEPTH OF FIELD
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You can tell what will be included in the depth of field by using the depth-
of-field scale on your camera lens. In Figure 1-2 the aperture is set at
f/8. The depth of field ranges from less than 10 feet to about 20 feet. At
f/16 the depth of field would range from a little over seven feet to a
little over 30 feet. Of course if the focus ring were moved then these
minimum and maximum distances would change.
This scale is useful in presetting your camera for anticipated shots. When
the action starts happening fast and furious you may not have time to focus.
If you know that all of the action will happen between 10 and 20 feet than
the camera should be set as in Figure 1-2. For more depth-of-field you
would use a smaller aperture.
ISOLATING A SUBJECT
Framing the subject gives the viewer "tunnel vision." His eyes
automatically go to the subject in a photograph because
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you have channeled his vision. Go to an old building and look through the
windows. Do you look at the wood or at the scenic view outside? Let's hope
you look at the scenic view. You can use this technique to direct a
viewer's attention to your subject.
Frames can be made of anything in the area. The standard frame, at least in
landscape photography, is the branches and leaves of a tree. Old as this
technique is, it still works, and your prime reason for "being" is to get
viewers to look at your work. Door frames, pipes, shelves and windows are
common frames you can use to do your job (see Figure 1-3).
Use the frame technique when appropriate. It will work effectively to allow
you to communicate with your viewers.
Selective Focus
Remember SFC Jones standing inspection? Under the circumstances you can't
very well frame him. Probably the best method of isolating him is to use
selective focus. Here's how:
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SFC Jones is still in the formation, and you wish to reshoot him using
selective focus. You focus sharply on SFC Jones and from your light meter
reading choose a faster shutter speed which will allow you to open up the
lens diaphragm, decreasing the depth of field. Again, you focus on SFC
Jones. This time SFC Jones is in sharp focus, but the foreground people and
background are fuzzy. Everything is still in the photograph but you have
successfully isolated your subject. Now the eyes of the viewer will not
wander, but will stay on the subject of your photograph.
Framing and selective focus are tools for helping photographers direct
viewer's attention to the subject matter.
Wide-Angle Lens
Some photographers select a lens focal length just for image size, without
much thought given to perspective. There are times in photography when you
will want to use a lens which will exaggerate perspective. Consider a low-
angle photograph taken with a wide-angle (35mm and wider) lens of the front
view of a 155mm Howitzer. The Howitzer muzzle looks awesome and the viewer
gets the impression of strength and power, the exact message the
photographer wished to give the viewer. Combined with the extreme depth of
field of a wide-angle lens, the subject leaps from the realm of the usual to
an interesting portrayal of the photographer's vision. A wide-angle lens is
said to give apparent "wide-angle distortion" to a photograph.
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Normal Angle Lena
The normal angle lens (50-55mm) is the "working lens" of the photographer.
In retrospect, some photographers neglect the normal angle lens because they
prefer the distortion and compression effect of other lenses. The normal
angle lens is used effectively when the subject matter is not confined to
limited areas. If there is room to move around the subject and placement is
all that is required, a normal angle lens works effectively.
Telephoto Lens
Telephoto lenses (75mm and longer) are used effectively in "selective focus"
situations because they give a more shallow depth of field than shorter
focal length lenses. A telephoto lens creates "compressed perspective"
which, when used properly, gives a viewer the impression of closeness.
Lenses are tools. Use them to portray your subject in an interesting way.
Whether "wide-angle distortion" or "telephoto compression" is used, it is
simply another metod of holding the viewer's attention and interpreting a
subject.
Use the les that portrays your subject in the manner in which you wish to
show it. Never use a lens because it is normal to do so. Let the lens
enhance your story-telling capability. Rule your lens; do not let the lens
selection rule you.
COMPOSITION
Every now and then you see a photograph that does not communicate, even
though it is technically perfect. This is usually because it lacks a
creative touch. You may also see a photograph which is creative but not
effective because it lacks technical expertise.
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well the photographer applies the elements and principles of composition.
Good composition serves a purpose, sets a mood, and tells a story. Your
camera will record whatever it sees, exactly as it sees it, without any
consideration or feeling for what is happening, or why. It is up to you to
capture the location, excitement, and attitude of the event. If you
properly place objects in the picture, you will give the photograph more
meaning by clearly showing the situation and reflecting the feeling of the
occasion.
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communicates what you intend if you follow these three principles: explore,
isolate and organize.
Explore
Light
Light is one of the most important considerations in any photograph. You
must always be aware of the nature and direction of what is called "incident
light." This is the light that strikes the surface of the subject.
There are two types of incident light: direct light and diffused light.
o Direct light. This light can come from the sun on a cloudless day, a
flash, a lightbulb, or spotlights. It is almost always harsh and
contrasty, casting strong shadows. Generally, it is not a
photojournalist's favorite light because detail is frequently lost in
the shadow areas.
The direction of the light can also affect the composition of the
photograph. The basic directions are:
o Backlight. This comes from behind the subject and is the most
contrasty. The side of the subject facing the camera is almost
totally in the shadow area, but is surrounded by strong light.
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o Light from above. This is usually the least desirable because of the
harsh unnatural shadows formed. For example, a photograph taken of a
person outdoors in direct light at high noon would show the light
striking the top of the head but leaving unwanted shadows in the eye
sockets, under the nose and below the chin.
Physical Surroundings
A second area you must explore is the physical surroundings. As you look at
the area around your subject, you must remember that, usually, neither the
camera nor the subject must be fixed. Generally either or both can be
moved, or at least the views changed.
In those instances when the camera is mobile and the subject stationary,
such as a ship at dock or a statue, you can change the composition of your
photography by shifting your position until the angle of view eliminates or
de-emphasizes an unwanted area. You can change to a wide-angle or telephoto
lens to alter the perspective, or you can use selective focus. That is,
opening up your lens to decrease the depth of field until only the subject
is in sharp focus.
When the camera is stationary and the subject mobile as when you are
shooting an aerial show or field maneuvers, you can produce the best results
by having enough advance information to know what to expect and taking more
film than you think you will need. Remember, film is cheap. Don't miss a
"million dollar shot" for want of "one roll of film." In a situation such
as this you will also want a variety of lenses so you can better control the
distance and space between you and your subjects.
When you find yourself in a situation where both you and the subject are
mobile, your best bet is to be aware, as the opportunities for excellent
shots come and go quickly.
Job Requirement
The third area you must explore is the actual job requirement. How will
your photographs be used and when? These will often dictate where you
should be during the event, how much coverage you should plan for and what
type of photographs you will be expected to produce. For example, you are
to prepare a feature picture story for the base newspaper on the military
police assigned to your command. Here are some requirements that could
influence your coverage:
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o The provost marshal would like you to do some night shooting to show
the military police are on the job around the clock.
o The base newspaper editor says he can use "about six" good
photographs.
As you can see from just these requirements, you know the approach you will
take, the number of "good photographs" you want, and even the type of film
you will use.
As you "explore" each shooting assignment, remember there are three areas to
keep in mind: how the light can affect your subject, whether the camera
and/or the subject are mobile and the actual requirements of the job. If
you fully explore these areas, you will be following one of the three basic
principles of good composition.
Isolation
Now that you have learned the first principle --how to explore your subject
from the standpoint of light, physical surroundings and job requirements --
we come to the second principle: isolation. For your purpose, isolation is
that means which the photojournalist applies to de-emphasize or eliminate
those objectionable objects discovered while exploring the subject. There
are many ways you can do this; the following is a partial list.
o Relocate the subject. This is surely the easiest and most obvious
solution if the subject is one that can be moved.
o Fill your viewfinder. This simply means, step in close so that the
subject will fill or nearly fill the negative, a very simple way to
remove unwanted objects.
o Alter the perspective. Take the photo from a different point of view.
o Frame the subject. Use items such as branches of trees, door frames,
windows or pipes to surround the focus of the photograph.
o Use light. You can emphasize the subject and minimize other areas by
lighting the subject only.
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Keep in mind that these seven techniques for isolating the subject may-be
used individually or in combination. In fact, you will often find it
necessary to use more than one to lift your subject from a confusing
setting. Also, you may find unique solutions to unique problems. The key
is to keep in mind that your subject must not be lost in the other elements
of the photograph. This is why isolation is one of the basic principles of
composition.
Organization
At the beginning of this lesson, you will remember that the nature of
composition was defined as organization, the orderly arrangement of elements
within a photograph. Organization is the third principle which, if
followed, can greatly aid in the composition of your photographs.
Illumination
Without light there can be no photographs. With light there can be both
good and bad photographs. Amateurs, the snapshot shooters, consider light
only as something that illuminates the scene. Their main concern is to have
enough light to take a picture.
Of course you must have enough light to expose the film. But you must
attempt to control and use that light to accomplish other things. Light can
be used to give a three-dimensional look to your photograph. It can also be
used to de-emphasize unimportant aspects --like the background.
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Cropping
There are a few problems with this element of composition, cropping. The
main problem seems to be where to draw the line, and the experts do not
agree on this. Some say "Crop severely and purposefully; do not make it
look like an accident." Others say, "Approach this gently and with
trepidation."
No matter what approach you take, you will soon find that cropping can have
a dramatic effect on a photograph. As you progress, you will develop your
sense of where to draw the line. Apply your own standards and develop your
own style.
There are actually two methods of cropping: in the camera, and when
enlarging the negative.
o Crop in the camera. This is usually the best approach, as you will
find it is difficult to make major corrections when enlarging the
negative. No amount of cropping in the darkroom can save a part of
the subject omitted in shooting, or shift light and shadows, or
change a background.
Proportion
Certain scenes frequently dictate the best format. Almost without thinking
you use a vertical format for tall things and a horizontal format for a
panoramic scene. Other scenes, however, are more subtle and call for more
thought on your part. It is then up to you to decide when to use a
horizontal and when to use a vertical. There are a couple of things to
remember about the impact that each format creates:
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Figure 1-4. Horizontal and Vertical Formats
This is very basic, of course, but the point is you must decide the
proportions of the final product at the time you take the photograph. You
cannot wait till you reach the darkroom only to discover that you have to
create a vertical print from a horizontal negative.
Angle of View
The angle of view from which you choose to take your photograph can make or
break your photograph. It can add impact or destroy the message you want to
communicate. One of the military's top photojournalists once declared part
of his success was due to the fact that "I know my knees bend." He was
referring to his willingness to get into just about any position to obtain
the best angle of view. This sort of person does not hesitate to climb up
on a desk (with permission, of course), stretch out on the floor, or even
hang by his toes to compose his picture from the best angle.
You too, must remember that your knees bend. Do not settle for the flat-
footed, camera-at-eye-level position that is the hallmark of the snapshot
shooter. Search for and get Into the position that provides the angle of
view you need to communicate your message.
A word of warning: don't fall into the trap of believing that an unusual
angle of view will automatically assure you of an award-winning photo.
Remember, this is just one of many elements of composition that you must use
to your best advantage.
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Lines
Regardless of the content, most photographs consist of only two elements:
shade and lines. In black and white photography, the shades are tones of
gray including black and white, and the lines give form to these tones.
o Diagonal Lines. These run more or less from one corner to the
opposite one and are considered the most dynamic of all lines. They
serve as the most graphic symbol of movement and action.
o Motion and Force Lines. Lines of motion and force are actually lines
placed in a photograph by the viewer. They occur, for instance, in a
picture of a speeding car when the viewer's eyes travel ahead to
determine the car's direction. They also occur in photographs when
two people are looking at each other. The line of motion is created
by the viewer following the "line of sight" from one person to the
other. Although technically lines of motion and force are not
graphic lines and are actually created by the viewer, they must be
considered by the photographer as an integral part of the composition
of the photograph (see Figure 1-5).
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Figure 1-5. Lines of Force
Forms
There are four basic forms the composition of photography may take-If you
are aware of these forms, then you will have more control over the message
your photograph gives the viewer. These are:
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Figure 1-6. Forms
You can show motion in still photographs, motion that is real or posed. To
get the feeling of motion in a still picture, the viewer must know what
occurred the second before the exposure or what will occur in the next
second. Place your subjects in positions that suggest motion is about to
happen, is happening, or has just finished. A complete action can be
divided into three parts --preaction, when the subject is getting ready;
midaction, when the subject is in motion and cannot turn back; and
postaction, when the subject has completed the motion ant Is regaining
equilibrium.
Time of Change
The best action photographs are taken at the time of change from preaction
to midaction to postaction. The first change, the point of tension, is the
beginning of the motion. It is the time when the greatest stress and strain
is applied. The effort of putting things in motion is evident in the
tension of the subject's muscles and his facial expressions.
The time of the change from midaction to postaction is the point of release.
At the point of release the effort is reversed. While momentum is carrying
the motion forward, the stress and strain is being applied as a break. The
effort by the subject at the point of tension or release provides the
greatest expression of motion for a still photograph.
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Midaction
Posed action
The subject need not stand still for posed action pictures. Re can rehearse
and then move through the actions as you photograph.
Although posed action provides time for planning and composition, you record
the truest expression by photographing the real thing at the scene while
it's happening.
Adding Action
You can also add action to your photocomposition by using diagonal lines
(leaning bodies), blurring part of the subject (hands or feet) as though
they were moving too fast for the camera and blurring or placing the
background out of focus as though you're moving with the subject.
The technique used to blur the background while getting a sharp image of a
moving object is called panning. To pan, you move the camera in step with
the moving object so that the object is standing still with respect to the
camera and the background or other stationary objects are in apparent
motion.
o Swing the camera with the object so that the object remains centered
in your viewfinder.
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o Move the entire top of your body in swinging the camera.
The reason you start moving the camera before the exposure, and keep it
moving until after the exposure, is to assure a smooth steady motion during
the exposure.
STOPPING ACTION
Stop Action Photographs
To take a good stop action photograph, you must have knowledge of the
subject and the action so that you can visualize what will happen and plan
ahead. You must be alert to follow the action and make the exposure at
exactly the right moment, and you must quickly and automatically adjust and
operate your camera.
You take stop action photographs with very fast shutter speeds so there is
almost no time for motion during the exposure. Usually you increase the
lens opening to compensate for an increase in shutter speed, but with stop
action you often need the depth of field of small apertures. So opening up
the lens is not always the best way to get the proper stop action exposure.
When you operate with fast shutter speeds and large f-numbers, you must use
fast film and bright lights to get sufficient exposure. For stop action,
you need artificial lights, flood or flash, except in brilliant sunlight.
You can use electronic flash to stop action for a scene too dark to record
on film without additional illumination. Use the proper speed to synch with
the flash, and the exposure time will be the duration of the flash. Speed
lamps or
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electronic flash units have very high intensity illumination and the flash
may be as short as 1/10,000 of a second or faster. You can also use flash
units to get the effect of high shutter speeds when the scene is moderately
illuminated.
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PRACTICE EXERCISE
LESSON 1
PHOTOJOURNALISM I
INSTRUCTIONS:
Review the material in this lesson. Answer the questions below by circling
the "T" or "F" next to each question. Compare your answers with the answer
key on the next page.
T F 4. The two types of incident light are direct light and diffused
light.
T F 5. The best action photographs are taken at the time of change from
preaction to midaction to postaction.
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ANSWER KEY
LESSON 1
PHOTOJOURNALISM I
1. True (Page 4)
2. True (Page 4)
6. True (Page 6)
7. False (Page 6)
8. True (Page 7)
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LESSON TWO
OBTAIN AND RECORD CUTLINE INFORMATION
OVERVIEW
TASK DESCRIPTION:
In this lesson you will learn to use a photo caption log while shooting a
photo assignment.
LEARNING OBJECTIVE:
ACTIONS: Record the Who, What, Where, When and Why to explain the
action in a photograph, at the same time the photo is taken.
REFERENCES: The material contained in this lesson was derived from the
following publications:
STP 46-46Q14-SM-TG
DINFOS Journalism Handbook
AR 360-81
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OBTAIN AND RECORD CUTLINE
INFORMATION
INTRODUCTION
Every photograph intended for publication needs a cutline to explain the
action, and to identify the people, places or equipment shown. The cutline
is written to help everyone see the same thing --the action, words and
meaning presented in a picture. Otherwise, a photograph will fall short of
explaining itself; each person viewing it will develop a different
interpretation of it. Cutline writing is a specialized form of news,
feature and sports writing. In most cases, you must tell the Who, What,
When, Where and Why in a single paragraph.
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Figure 2-1. Example of a locally designed caption log.
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Figure 2-2. Example of a filled out caption log.
WHAT TO RECORD
Keep in mind when recording cutline data that someone else besides yourself
may actually write the cutline. Your notes should allow anyone to match up
the photos to the notes and write a good cutline. At a minimum, the
information recorded during the photo assignment should answer the
following:
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Who
Identify people in the photo by rank, full name, title, hometown, etc. Also
note relative positions of people in the photo when there are more than one
and if it's not obvious who's who by action, age, gender or rank. Sometimes
it's helpful to note the clothing or physical characteristics of the people
being photographed. Keep in mind that when you are shooting black and white
film it will do little good to note "yellow T-shirt" or "red dress." But
notes such as "Yankees T-shirt," "sunglasses," or "curly blond hair" would
help identify the subjects. If the photo is of a crowd or large group --the
start of a Fun Run or a crowd scene at the community fair, for example --
individual ID isn't necessary.
What
Where
Be sure to record the location of the action. Write down the name or number
of ranges, street names, building names or numbers, etc. If there are
landmarks, either natural or man-made, identify them as well. These might
include rivers, lakes, statues, bridges, mountains, etc.
When
Record the time and date the photo was taken. This is especially important
for "wild" or "stand-alone" art that will not be accompanied by a story.
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Why
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SPORTS PHOTOGRAPHY HINTS
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PRACTICE EXERCISE
LESSON 2
INSTRUCTIONS:
Review the material in this lesson. Answer the questions below by circling
the "T" or "F" next to each question. Compare your answers with the answer
key on the next page.
T F 3. The "what" can apply to more than just what's happening in the
photo.
T F 4. The best source for verifying names and uniform numbers is the
program guide.
T F 5. When shooting more than one roll of film you should keep track of
them by folding your notes and putting them in the film canister.
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ANSWER KEY
LESSON 2
PHOTOJOURNALISM II
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LESSON THREE
OVERVIEW
TASK DESCRIPTION:
In this lesson you will learn to write a cutline for a photograph.
LEARNING OBJECTIVE:
ACTIONS: Write a four-part formal or normal cutline that identifies the
people, equipment and landmarks in the photograph.
REFERENCES: The material contained in this lesson was derived from the
following publications:
STP 46-46Q14-SM-TG
DINFOS Journalism Handbook
DINFOS Public Affairs Handbook
AR 360-5
AR 360-81
AP Stylebook and Libel Manual
37 DI0251
WRITE A PHOTO CUTLINE
INTRODUCTION
In the previous lesson, you learned how to gather and record cutline
information as you took your photographs. In this lesson, you will learn
how to use that information to write cutlines.
Cutlines are the reader's anchors, the only sources of common information to
tell all your readers what's happening in a photograph.
Here, we will dwell on the formal, four-part cutline, its content, its
placement and a bit of typography.
Identification
The first sentence in the cutline, called the action sentence, should
identify people, equipment, landmarks and location in a photograph.
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most people know what the Statue of Liberty looks like if they see it from
top to toe. However, a photograph of a soldier looking out of the
observation deck in the statue's crown will require identification of the
statue.
o People. Identify people by rank or title and first and last name
(the middle initial is usually not needed). Give enough
identification to identify who's who in the sentence, describing
those directly involved. Save long, detailed titles and descriptions
for later sentences to avoid a cumbersome action sentence.
There are several ways of identifying more than one person in a photograph.
They are as follows:
EXAMPLE: Spec. David Smith (left) and Spec. Ralph Jones march across the
finish line at the end of this year's annual Fort Jackson 25-Mile
Road March.
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EXAMPLE: Choo-Choo the Clown hands a balloon to disabled veteran Cliff
Debuke during a recent visit to the VA hospital.
EXAMPLE: Sgt. Jim Carver (kneeling), Sgt. Andrew Anderson (sitting) and
Sgt. Tony Guccione read a map in preparation for the upcoming
Common Task Testing.
Action
Use the historical present tense to write the first sentence in a cutline,
just as they are used in new headlines. Use verbs such as "runs," "walks,"
"plays," "presents," "shoots," etc. Do this because pictures, like
paintings or sculptures, freeze a moment in time. Of course, the picture is
now past tense, but the reader is viewing it for the
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first time and the verb describes the action as if it's taking place now.
The present tense adds immediacy. Compare the two following action
sentences:
o Army Pvt. 2 Alvin C. Klink swam through swirling flood waters and
rescued six-year-old Wendy B. Flora.
One problem that arises in using this verb tense is dealing with the "when"
element. Notice the contradiction in: "John Terry slams a home run over the
center field fence in league action Friday." Mixing tenses is not only a
grammatical error, it's jarring to the reader. So don't use the "when" of a
picture in the first sentence. Shift to the past tense immediately after
the action sentence (Example: "The game was held at the post baseball field
Friday.") The rest of the cutline should be entirely in the past tense.
Background
This part of the cutline should explain any of the W's or H that was not
explained in the action sentence. This is a good place to put the "when"
element to avoid mixing tenses in the action sentence.
Credit
Photo credit is the fourth element of a cutline. You should give credit to
the photographer or releasing agency in the
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final sentence of a cutline. The sentence should be separated by
parentheses from the rest of the cutline, like this: (U.S. Army Photo by
Staff Sgt. Henry J. Moran). In some publications, the photographer gets
credit only in the masthead, and photo credit only appears with a picture
when taken by a photographer not working for the publication. For releasing
agency credit without the photographer's name the credit would look like
this: (U.S. Army Photo).
Datelines
Be sure that "Fort" is never abbreviated in the dateline, and that the state
is abbreviated (or not) according to the AP Stylebook.
Datelines may also contain the source of the story. The source would follow
the city name, in parentheses.
Typography
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EXAMPLE: THREE TIME WINNER -- Capt. Elwood Houndsberger captures the
Columbus Marathon for the third consecutive year with a time of
2:49.
Position
Cutlines may be moved around the picture for various effects or design
requirements. They most commonly appear directly beneath the picture, set
in the same column width as the photo. They may, however, appear alongside
a picture, as a side cutline, for various design reasons.
The cutline should be set in block style, with left and right margins even
with the sides of the picture.
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PRACTICE EXERCISE
LESSON 3
INSTRUCTIONS:
Review the material in this lesson. Answer the questions below by circling
the "T" or "F" next to each question. Compare your answers with the answer
key on the next page.
T F 3. You should use historical past tense when writing the first
sentence of a cutline.
DI0251 44
ANSWER KEY
LESSON 3
DI0251 46
LESSON FOUR
CROP AND SCALE A PHOTOGRAPH
OVERVIEW
TASK DESCRIPTION:
In this lesson you will learn to crop and scale photographs to be printed in
newspapers.
LEARNING OBJECTIVE:
ACTIONS: Crop a photograph to safeguard information ox to eliminate
unnecessary or distracting elements in the photograph using
the Rule of Thirds and Cropping L's.
REFERENCES: The material contained in this lesson was derived from the
following publications:
STP 46-46Q14-SM-TG
DINFOS Journalism Handbook
DINFOS Newspaper Production Techniques
AR 360-5
AR 360-81
47 DI0251
CROP AND SCALE A PHOTOGRAPH
INTRODUCTION
Poorly cropped and improperly scaled photographs clearly point out a
training weakness within a newspaper staff.
The cropped photograph then must be scaled to fit a hole in your newspaper
design. Scaling a photograph is the act of enlarging or reducing a cropped
photograph to fit a hole on a newspaper page. Scaling starts with at least
three known dimensions: the cropped width and depth and either the
reproduction width or depth. When a photograph is scaled, the depth is
enlarged or reduced proportionately with the width, or vice versa. Scaling
the photograph identifies an unknown dimension for the soldier, either the
reproduction depth or width. A photograph is scaled before it is screened
(the halftone dot pattern used for newspaper reproduction of artwork).
Scaling is accomplished using either the diagonal method or the proportional
wheel, or possibly an alternate method, the mathematical formula.
CROPPING
Cropping a photograph is the act of eliminating unnecessary or distracting
elements in the photograph, ensuring pleasing composition and the smart
framing of the center of interest. This is done by trimming away parts of
the photo from the right, left, top, bottom or all four sides. Photos are
seldom used in publications just as they come out of the darkroom. There
are many considerations involved in cropping a photograph.
SAFEGUARD INFORMATION
As a public affairs practitioner, your first responsibility is to ensure
security, accuracy, propriety and policy are not violated. Army Regulation
360-5, Public Information, spells out the public affairs audiovisual policy.
DI0251 48
The public information regulation reinforces the guidance that we must not
compromise safeguarded information. Intelligence and counter-intelligence
matters are a function of the G-2. Security matters are a function of the
G-3. Seek guidance from the experts on questionable matters. If still in
doubt about a subject matter, don't use the photograph. Ideally,
journalists will have been trained to avoid secure or sensitive areas. If,
however, there is a lapse of security and photos are taken in a secure area,
that film should be turned in to G-2 for disposal.
Security
Some areas of concern in security include command post and field training
exercises. During exercises, operations plans, maps and equipment can be
easily compromised by a photographer. Access is usually limited and
photographers are kept away from secure areas, but breaches of security may
occur in the heat of battle. As the saying goes, operational security is
everyone's business. When cropping a photograph for reproduction in the
newspaper, be especially aware of the background areas that might reveal
classified information. Remember, exercises test war plans, and those plans
cannot be compromised.
Policy
Policy considerations are spelled out but are not limited to the provisions
of AR 360-5. The Department of Defense and Department of the Army have
release authority over certain types of information. Information on weapons
systems, nuclear, biological and chemical warfare, controversial national
and international subjects, and certain Army contracts will have to be
approved for release. In overseas locations, local policies come into play.
Photographs of antigovernment protests in your host country, for example,
normally should not have been taken in the first place. If you allow the
photograph to be published in your newspaper, no matter how good your
cropping job, you may enrage the host country and your superiors. Policy
considerations also include uniform violations, unsafe acts (e.g.--the
soldier sleeping on a tracked-vehicle), and promotional activities favoring
one organization over another (e.g. --Association of the United States Army
publicity about the Non-Commissioned Officers Association).
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Propriety
Accuracy
Make sure the photograph reflects reality. A photograph taken from the
wrong angle or at the wrong time can, in fact, misrepresent the facts of the
story. A road race taken at the finish line can show the second place
finisher ahead of the winner, if taken from the wrong angle. A sneeze or
facial twitch during a somber ceremony can make the subject look like a fool
in addition to misrepresenting the story.
DISTRACTIONS
When cropping, narrow the cropped area to the center of interest as much as
possible. Crop ruthlessly; enlarge generously.
Distractions come in the form of anything that takes the eye away from the
center of interest and action taking place. It could be a spectator in the
stands at a baseball game. It could be a student looking away from the
teacher in a class. It could be anything that takes away from the purpose
of the photograph. Eliminate everything that does not contribute to the
photograph.
Try to limit the number of people in the photograph to three, or only those
necessary to tell the story. When cropping people, do not crop them at the
neck, waist, knees or other joints.
DEAD SPACE
The center of interest should be contained to avoid unnecessary dead space
in the photograph. But in cropping out dead space, leave enough space to
accommodate the action of the center of interest. If, for example, a car is
traveling to the left in the photograph, leave room on the left for the
vehicle to travel. Do not cut it off at the front bumper. The car needs
dead space in which to travel. If the subject or center of interest is
looking to the right in a photograph, you must allow enough dead space for
him to
DI0251 50
look into. However, many times too much dead space is left in a photograph.
Too much background may make the center of interest get lost or not stand
out.
The cropping marks are made at or near the corners of the photograph. A
china marker normally works best when making your cropping marks in the
borders of photographs. China markers allow you to make changes without
difficulty and mess (see Figure 4-1)
AESTHETICS
The aesthetics, or beauty, of the photograph should be improved by cropping.
The Rule of Thirds, as shown in Fig. 4-2, suggests that the center of
interest be roughly positioned at one of the four intersections created by
equally spaced horizontal and vertical lines that divide the photo into
horizontal and vertical thirds. If the subject is centered in the
photograph, as is frequently done by amateur photographers, the photo is
often static or boring.
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Figure 4-2. Rule of Thirds
SHAPES
The shape of the photograph also must be considered when cropping it.
Normally, a 3: 5 proportion is most pleasing to the eye. Proportions of 2:
3, 3: 4, 4: 5, 4: 7 and etc. are acceptable proportions. Simply cropping a
photograph square, 3: 3 in this case, ultimately leaves a newspaper page
dotted with square blocks putting up little fight for attention. Square
shapes are boring.
When considering the shape of the photograph, there are times when a strong
vertical or horizontal will improve the look of a newspaper. Obvious
examples where extreme horizontals and verticals work well include tall
buildings, parades, travel photo features and many sporting events.
DI0251 52
pass across the middle of the playing field. Both actions could be stand-
alone photographs.
CROPPING L's
A useful tool when narrowing the photograph to its center of interest is the
"cropping L." Cropping L's are L-shaped cardboard devices, often black in
color, used to eliminate dead space. Placed over the photograph in the form
of a rectangle, they can be adjusted to see the effects of cropping before a
crop is actually made. An editor uses them to frame the photograph prior to
cropping. (See Figure 4-3.)
PHOTO DIMENSIONS
Before you can scale a photograph, you normally will know three dimensions:
cropped width, cropped depth, and reproduction width or reproduction depth.
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horizontal measurements in newspaper design are in picas, columns or a local
unit of measurement, such as ciceros.)
You will use the three known dimensions (CW, CD and RW) to determine the
unknown dimension, usually the reproduction depth.
Many times you will have set aside a vertical space to fill on a newspaper
page design. In such a case, you are using the cropped width, cropped depth
and reproduction depth to establish the "unknown" reproduction width. This
"backwards" procedure frequently is used in photo layouts where standard
column widths may not apply.
DI0251 54
SCALING
Scaling is the act of either enlarging or reducing cropped artwork to fit in
a hole on a newspaper page. You cannot scale a photograph before you crop
it, since you must first know the cropped dimensions. Once you know them,
you can scale the photograph to snugly fit that hole. In scaling a
photograph, you are trying to determine either the reproduction depth or the
reproduction width. As you enlarge or reduce the photo to reproduction
width, the reproduction depth will change proportionately. And vice versa.
As you scale for reproduction depth, the reproduction width will change
proportionately. There are two simple ways to scale the artwork to size:
2. Draw a diagonal line from the lower left corner through the upper
right corner. Extend the line beyond the corner if you are enlarging
the artwork.
3. Measure from the lower left corner, along the base line, to the width
desired for the picture. Make the base line extend to that point.
4. Draw a vertical line up from the column width mark. Stop where it
and the diagonal line intersect. Measure the vertical line. That
measurement will be your reproduction depth.
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Figure 4-5. An example of diagonal scaling
DI0251 56
EXAMPLE:
The cropped width of a piece of artwork is 18 picas and the cropped depth is
4 inches. The artwork is to be used in a one-column, 13.5-pica wide space.
First, align the cropped width (18 picas) on the inner disc, with the
reproduction width (13.5 picas) on the outer disc.
Next, find the cropped depth (4") on the inner disc and read the
reproduction depth opposite it on the outer disc.
The window on the inner disc displays the "Percentage of Original Size." In
this example, the artwork will be reduced to 75 percent of the cropped size.
Figures less than 100 indicate a reduced size. Figures higher than 100 mean
the artwork will be enlarged. Your printing contract may stipulate maximum
reduction and enlargement percentages and sizes.
RW X CD
RD = CW
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ESTABLISHING PERCENTAGES
To establish a reduction of enlargement percentage, simply divide the
reproduction width by the cropped width, or:
RW = 5
CW = 3
RW = 2.5
CW = 4.5
GUIDELINING ARTWORK
After scaling the artwork, you must guideline it to tell the printer what to
do with it. The guideline is a notation that you write on the back of the
artwork. It includes the photo/art slugline, the reproduction width and
reproduction depth, and percentage of enlargement or reduction, in that
order.
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The formal method of writing artwork guidelines resembles the writing of a
headline. When you write the artwork's guideline, the first number of the
dimension identifies the number of columns or the reproduction width (in
inches, picas, or local measurements). The second number identifies the
reproduction depth.
EXAMPLE: 2 X 4". The first number (2) is the column width, or two columns.
The second number (4) is the reproduction depth; in this case it is four
inches.
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PRACTICE EXERCISE
LESSON 4
INSTRUCTIONS:
Review the material in this lesson. Answer the questions below by circling
the "T" or "F" next to each question. Compare your answers with the answer
key on the next page.
T F 1. Policy considerations are spelled out but are not limited to the
provisions of AR 360-5.
DI0251 60
ANSWER KEY
LESSON 4
PHOTOJOURNALISM I
DI0251 62
LESSON FIVE
ESTABLISH A FIELD PHOTOGRAPHIC DARKROOM
46Q Soldiers' Manual Task: 214-176-2301
OVERVIEW
TASK DESCRIPTION:
In this lesson you will learn to supply, set up and operate a photographic
darkroom under a variety of field conditions developing black and white
photographic film and prints for publication.
LEARNING OBJECTIVE:
ACTIONS: Inventory and store photographic equipment and prepare a
darkroom site.
REFERENCES: The material contained in this lesson was derived from the
following publications:
STP 46-46Q14-SM-TG
AR 360-5
AR 360-81
FM 46-1
TEC Lesson 570-214-1098-A Develop Black and
White Film
63 DI0251
ESTABLISH A FIELD
PHOTOGRAPHIC DARKROOM
INTRODUCTION
Photographic facilities, or photo labs, are used for film loading, chemical
mixing, film and paper processing, photographic printing and storage.
Central to the photo lab is the darkroom. Because photographic materials
are light sensitive, they must be handled in total darkness or in subdued or
filtered light. Darkrooms must be designed to provide for efficient work in
the dark and to ensure safety of the workers.
At the end of this lesson you will be able to pack photographic equipment
and supplies, set up the darkroom at the field site and operate the
darkroom.
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supplies should be packed or stored prior to deployment so that they are
available when you are ready to deploy. You may need to include a
requirement to bring containers of water if you will travel by ground
transportation (the water is too heavy to transport by air). Further in
this lesson there is a section on packing, to include a recommended packing
list.
MANNING REQUIREMENTS
Establish what personnel will be required to support the
mission and man the darkroom. Plan for taskings, if needed.
The field darkroom may require support from other units or organizations,
especially since it will need a source of water, and, in hot weather,
refrigeration. If deploying with intelligence or signal units with
photographic capabilities, plan to share facilities. The annex must address
resupply actions.
Include instructions on how the darkroom should be laid out for ease in
operation. Instruct how to set up the enlarger
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and safe lights so that they work properly. List the procedures for testing
the darkroom.
PACKING
The items you choose for packing should be chosen for the job. Because you
may not know much about the site you will be deploying to, the items you
bring should be versatile. Film that is versatile when used in different
levels of light, lenses that will give you a variation of magnification and
paper that develops an image quickly and with a short washing time will
prove most useful when you must work in the field.
Once you pack for deployment, you cannot just leave the items lying in
storage until you need them for a deployment. You should check the stored
items at least monthly to be sure the items are in good condition. Make
sure that film, paper, chemicals, batteries and other supplies are fresh,
their original seals intact. Rotate after six months; put the stored items
into daily use and replace with new supplies.
Some items, such as the enlarger, may or may not be kept stored for a
deployment, based on whether they are needed for day-to-day operations. If
this is the case, you should check the storage cases for the items and any
spare parts the equipment may have. Film should be placed in a refrigerator
or freezer so that it lasts well beyond its expiration date, and taken out
when needed for deployment. Above all, soldiers that will be using this
equipment in the field must be familiar with the equipment and know how to
use it.
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PACKING LIST
The following is a basic packing list of items you will need when you
deploy. For containers you will need two footlockers, a case for the
enlarger and at least one camera bag. This list is only a guideline because
your mission and available equipment might require exceptions.
Inventory the items as you pack them, and clearly mark them as your
office/unit's property. Tape a copy of the inventory list onto the inside
of the lids of the footlockers. Wrap the film and photographic paper in
waterproof bags, such as plastic garbage bags, to keep out moisture. If you
are deploying to a desert environment, you may want to bring liquid
chemicals that require only dilution. Remember that if they leak everything
in the footlocker could be ruined.
Footlocker No. 1
o Film. 100 rolls of 400 ASA/ISO black and white film and 20 rolls of
color slide film.
o Miscellaneous supplies.
- Negative sleeves.
- Dodging and burning tools.
- Anti-static brush.
- Grain magnifier or other focusing device.
- Lens-cleaning tissue and fluid.
- Blower brush.
- Printing filter set.
- String and clothespins.
- Film/paper dryer and dryer bag.
- Masking tape.
- Black electrician's tape.
- Duct tape.
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- Film changing bag.
- Extra enlarger bulbs of 110 and 220 voltages.
- Multivoltage hotplate and immersion heater.
Footlocker No. 2
Enlarger
If you do not need the enlarger for day-to-day operations, you could pack it
in its original container, a machine storage crate or have the post
engineers build a shipping crate. Keep the enlarger in storage with the
footlockers. You should periodically remove it from its container and check
it for damage. Otherwise, you must prepare the enlarger for shipping when
you are preparing to deploy. Check the crate or container to make sure it
is not broken or damaged, and that it will close and lock. Make sure the
container is marked with your office identification. If the container
checks out, carefully disassemble the enlarger and pack it in the container.
Be particularly cautious when packing the optical system of the enlarger.
The optics can be easily scratched or broken by mishandling. When packing,
include the manufacturer's instructions for assembling the enlarger.
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Tables
Prepare two tables for transportation; one for use on the "dry side," the
other for use on the "wet side" of the darkroom. The table for the dry side
should be sturdy enough to support an enlarger. The table on the wet side
will be used for the darkroom trays. The PA annex could include
coordination instructions for the site survey team to locate, if possible, a
field darkroom site with a sink or table already in place. You may
eliminate the need for bringing the "wet" table if an adequate sink or table
already is in place at the field site, but count on bringing the tables.
Camera Bag
If possible, store at least two camera bodies with short, medium and long
lenses, an electric flash unit, filters, lens-cleaning tissue and fluid, a
blower brush and split-beam card (an index card that can be used to split
the beam of the flash) in a camera bag for use during deployments. You
should periodically check the cameras, lenses and flash to make sure they
operate properly. Keep a supply of freshly charged batteries in the camera
bag, at least enough to last a month. If you cannot keep a full camera bag
ready due to day-to-day operations, pack the camera bag with as much as you
can spare, and just load it with the additional items prior to deployment.
You may want to place a few rolls of film into the bag to take photographs
of units as they travel with you to the field.
DEPLOY
The footlockers, tables and enlarger case are packed and locked, ready for
loading to take to the field. Load the van, truck or pallet, securing the
footlockers and enlarger case with tie-downs to reduce damage. If the items
will be loaded onto an aircraft, you will probably be told to bring them to
a central location for loading onto pallets. Soldiers or airmen trained in
properly loading an aircraft will load your items; if the items will not be
flying on the same aircraft as you, be sure to find out which aircraft they
will be on. Make sure you can read the identifying marks on each item so
that you can find them when they are off-loaded. Carry the camera bag with
you; this will protect it from damage and secure it against theft or loss,
and you can photograph the soldiers on their way with you to the field.
Make sure to get a copy of the lading of/for shipment.
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THE FIELD SITE
At the field site, unload the darkroom equipment and supplies and place them
away from bright light and moisture while you prepare the field darkroom for
operation. There are three types of darkrooms you can establish: scratch-
built, tent and fixed site.
SCRATCH-BUILT DARKROOM
If there is no fixed site available and you do not have a tent, you could
build your own darkroom. This must be identified before deployment so you
could bring building materials, or get them issued to you once at the site.
Locate the darkroom, if possible, near a source of water and electricity.
The darkroom should be large enough to hold you and the two tables you
brought, giving you room to work (Fig. 5-1). Separate the tables so that
you have a "wet" and a "dry" side. Or, you may want to build shelves to
place the trays on. Try to assemble the 2x4s and plywood so that they fit
tightly and allow little light to leak in. Use caulk to fill in the cracks.
You could either fashion a door out of wood, or you could use a blanket or
shelter-half. Cover the roof with shelter halves or plastic bags; they will
probably protect the darkroom from moisture during a light rain, but could
be useless in a downpour.
Once the darkroom is built, go inside, wait for your eyes to adjust, and
check for light leaks. You will probably have leaks where the wood meets;
putting in a few extra nails
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along an edge of plywood will tighten it down and cut down on the amount of
light coming in. On the inside of the darkroom, use black electrical tape
and the inside of film paper boxes to block out any last light leaks. If
you still see leaks and feel that they will cause the film to fog, use a
film changing bag to load the film onto reels and into the developing tank,
or use the darkroom to develop film only at night. You can sweep and mop
the scratch-built darkroom if you lay a plywood floor.
TENT DARKROOM
A tent darkroom will probably be more weather-tight than the scratch-built
darkroom, but may be just as difficult to make light-tight. It will help to
place the tent where it is naturally shaded from the sun, by trees or in the
shadow of a building or cliff. Camouflage covering will cut down on light
reaching the tent, and will make it cooler and less dusty as well. A tent
liner will trap light also. You may be able to make the tent dark enough to
print during daylight, but most likely you will have to wait until it is
dark. To develop film, either wait until it is dark, or use a film changing
bag. If you do not have a film changing bag, you can fashion one from your
field jacket. Snap and zip the jacket, tie off the bottom and neck and put
your arms through the sleeves to work.
FIXED-SITE DARKROOM
A fixed-site darkroom is the optimum facility, especially if it has
electricity and running hot and cold water. To set up a fixed-site darkroom
for operation you would clean it, make it light-tight and turn on the
electricity. Cleaning, power and darkness is easier to achieve than in the
tent and scratch-built darkroom facilities because:
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Ventilation openings, windows, cracks around the door and even the
ceiling could be a source of light leaks. Use black cardboard and
duct tape to mold a vent cover that allows ventilation but eliminates
the light (black cardboard is available from the empty boxes of
photographic paper). Use duct tape to seal cracks around the door,
windows, or anywhere else that light comes in.
SET UP ENLARGER
Set up the enlarger by the manufacturer's instructions. Check to make sure
there has been no damage. Clean the optics, being careful not to scratch
the glass. Ensure the darkroom's power source is compatible with the
enlarger and timer, whether 110 or 220 volts and 50 or 60 kilohertz. Test
the timer by setting it for several seconds and checking it against your
watch. Make sure the light bulb works; if not, replace it with one of the
extra bulbs you have brought. Check the aperture settings from lowest to
highest, making sure the aperture moves easily without sticking or jamming.
Once you are satisfied that the enlarger works properly, dust it and cover
it. When not in use, always unplug the enlarger and keep it covered.
SET UP SAFELIGHTS
Check your safelights to make sure they work and have not been damaged.
Place both safelights on the wet side of the darkroom within reach of an
electrical outlet. The method of hanging them up will depend on how your
darkroom is made. If you have built your darkroom out of wood, you could
nail your lights up. If your darkroom is in a tent, the lights can be
suspended from the tent poles. A fixed facility may already have nails in
the walls for hanging your lights. When hanging the lights, make sure they
are placed so that you can reach them in the dark and turn them on and off
easily.
STORE SUPPLIES
Retrieve your supplies, unpack them and store them off the floor, away from
dampness and light. Separate your storage into three areas: one for
chemicals, one for film and paper, and one for cameras and accessories.
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Chemical Storage
Chemicals should be stored in a cool, dark, dry place. They must be stored
carefully both before and after mixing. The containers used for shipment of
liquid chemicals should make excellent containers for storage. The
containers should be arranged so that as little damage as possible occurs if
any container is accidentally broken. Do not store dry chemicals on the
floor; dampness, leaking liquid chemicals, overflowing sinks or rainwater
could damage them. Store them on a shelf or a pallet. Liquid chemicals
should be stored lower than dry chemicals, so that if a container leaks the
contents will damage only the floor.
Humidity. Humidity during storage becomes a problem once the package seal
is broken. Hot, humid air may cause fog, fungus growth, condensation, mold
and mildew. The enlarger could rust from humidity.
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Camera Storage
The camera bodies and accessories should be stored in the camera bag. At
the end of each day, or before each assignment, load the bag with enough
film to accomplish the next day's assignments. Before using the film, if
refrigerated, allow it to come to room temperature in its unopened package,
which will prevent moisture condensation. Cameras should always be loaded
with film, ready to go. Check each item for cleanliness, maintenance and
serviceability before an assignment.
MIX CHEMICALS
If you must mix dry chemicals for stock, do so, following the manufacturer's
instructions. Otherwise, dilute the liquid chemicals as needed.
You are now ready to develop black and white film in your field photographic
darkroom. The steps for the black and white process are contained in TEC
Lesson 570-214-1098-A, Develop Black and White Film.
Run a test roll of unexposed film through the development process as a test
of the darkroom. Do NOT use a roll of film that has been exposed. The film
should come out clear, with frame numbers and film information along the
bottom edge. If the film is fogged, you probably have a light leak. If the
marking on the edges is missing, something is wrong with the chemicals,
probably the developer.
Contact the liaison(s) established in the PA annex to the OPLAN. Should the
deployment be lengthy, a liaison with higher headquarters, sister units or a
depot for resupply of photographic materials will be very important. You
may consider locating a local civilian photographic supply source if
necessary.
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COLD TEMPERATURES
Cold temperatures are found year-round in the polar regions, on high
mountains, and during the winter in temperate areas of the world. Because
the possibility exists that you will participate in exercises in cold
temperatures, you must be aware of how cold weather affects your equipment.
Cold weather can make your SLR camera malfunction if the temperature is low
enough to cause the mirror to stick, the shutter to break and the aperture
to freeze open or shut. The film could also break when being wound.
Synchronization cords will be less flexible and may snap, damage that may
not be noticed. Take the following precautions to protect your film and
equipment in cold weather:
o Batteries.
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- Use fresh batteries; they will hold a charge better than older
ones.
- Use body heat to keep batteries warm so they will work better and
last longer.
- Carry spare batteries in a warm pocket.
- Carry batteries for your flash close to your body in a battery
pack.
- Store the batteries in a warm place when not in use.
HOT TEMPERATURES
Hot, humid weather is bad for photographic equipment, causing corrosion,
fungus growth, insect damage, rust, mildew, mold and warping. Photographic
film and paper, when stored under hot, humid conditions, will deteriorate.
Some crystalline chemicals will absorb the moisture and dissolve in it, or
give up their own moisture to the air and become powdery.
Try to store your film, paper, chemicals and equipment in a cool, dry place.
Use any of the following suggestions open to you to keep your equipment and
materials in good shape:
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- Store crystalline chemicals in brown glass or plastic bottles
sealed with wax or tape at the neck.
- Keep the film and paper, and especially color slide film, sealed in
their original packaging as long as possible; open them just before
use.
- Once the packages are opened, seal film and paper in plastic bags.
- Place a desiccating agent, such as silica gel, in the bags of film
and paper to absorb moisture.
- Clean and dry equipment before storage.
o Inspect regularly.
o Protect equipment.
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You can use the following to cool the water used for processing (not
necessarily used as water for processing):
Conserve Water
- Air conditioners.
- Heat exchangers.
- Refrigerator units.
- Ice or melted ice.
- Mess facilities.
- Shower facilities.
- Seawater.
- Any other water source, potable or non-potable.
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- When developing film, use the slowest rate of water flow and the
smallest tank that will accommodate it.
- Develop enough rolls of film to fill a developing tank.
- Save water used from film washing and use for print washing.
- When printing, reduce unnecessary water depth in washing trays.
- Paper cut into one-inch strips can be used to test exposures; the
strips will conserve both water and chemicals by reducing trial
prints.
- Use replenishers rather than dumping exhausted chemistry and mixing
fresh.
- Avoid making prints 8x10-inch and larger.
- Make contact sheets to avoid printing bad negatives.
Conserve Chemicals
Some chemicals can be reused many times before they become exhausted. Once
chemicals are exhausted, dispose of them according to local SOP.
o Developer. Most developers are for one-time use only and must be
discarded. Some are reusable; follow manufacturer's instructions if
reusing developer.
o Stop bath. Stop bath is reusable. Most require keeping track of how
many rolls of film have gone through. Kodak's Indicator stop bath
turns purple under safelights when exhausted. It can be recycled as
long as it remains yellow.
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PRACTICE EXERCISE
LESSON 5
INSTRUCTIONS:
Review the material in this lesson. Answer the questions below by circling
the "T" or "F" next to each question. Compare your answers with the answer
key on the next page.
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ANSWER KEY
LESSON 5
PHOTOJOURNALISM I
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