PRIYANK GOYALS LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE Huckaback weaves In Huckaback weaves, the structure is so arranged that there are

two areas. 1. 2. Area of plain weave gives firmness and hard wearing quality. Area of loose float provides good moisture pickup. This weave is largely used for linen and cotton towels, glass cloths etc. How to draw ordinary Huckaback Let us make a Huckaback weave on 10 ends and 6 picks. Step 1: Make a 10 end and 6 pick grid and divide the grid into four equal parts.

Step 2: Draw the following motif in the lower left part.

Step 3: Drawing it in lower left corner, it will become:

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PRIYANK GOYALS LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE

Step 4: Copy the same motif in the upper right corner

Step 5: Now fill the remaining two parts with plain weave How to draw the Revesible Huckaback Let us make a reversible Huckaback on 10 ends and 8 picks. Step 1: Make a 10-end and 8-pick grid Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com

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PRIYANK GOYALS LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE

Step 2: The motif size will be

8 8 = + 1 x +1 =5x5 2 2

No. of picks No. of picks +1 +1 2 2

Let us make this motif on 5x5 in the lower left corner of the grid. Motif

Copying this motif on the lower left corner of the grid we have

Step 3 Now copy this motif on the upper right corner of grid but with weft up we represent it by o. Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com

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Here in the upper right corner the weft up is indicated by o and warp up is indicated by blank spaces. Step 4: To make it truly reversible, we shift the motif in the upper right hand corner by one pick. Thus our grid will look like.

Step 5: Now we fill the remaining portion with plain weave (o) and complete the design.

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PRIYANK GOYALS LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE

Grecian weave: it is a type of Huckaback weave How to construct Grecian weave Let us make a Grecian weave on 12 ends and 12 picks. Step 1: Make a grid representing 12 ends and 12 picks and

divide it into 4 equal parts. Step 2 : Now draw the following motif into lower left corner of the grid.

Drawing in the lower left corner of the grid we have

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PRIYANK GOYALS LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE

Step 3: Copy the motif in the upper right corner as:

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PRIYANK GOYALS LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE Step 4: Now copy the motif in the other two corners but with weft up on the motif part. We represent it by o and warp up by x.

Step 5: Now to make the weave truly reversible, shift the motif in the lower right corner up by one pick and to the left side by one end and shift the motif in the upper left corner down by one pick and to the right by one end. Thus we have

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Step 6: Now replace (o) by blanks to represent weft up.

Step 7: Now fill the remaining portion with plain weave and complete the design.

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PRIYANK GOYALS LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE MOCK-LENO WEAVE These weaves produce effects that are similar in appearance in the gauge or leno styles. How to construct A simple Mock Leno Weave Let us make a mock leno weave on 10 ends and 6 picks. Step 1: Prepare a grid representing 10 ends and 6 picks and divide it into four parts.

Step 2: Copy the following motif in the lower left quarter of the grid.

Copying in the grid we get:

Step 3: Now copy this motif in the upper right quarter of the grid. Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com

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PRIYANK GOYALS LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE

Step 4: Now fill the remaining quarters with a weave that work exactly opposite to the weave chosen for motif. It means where in the motif there is warp up [a (x) mark], you replace it with weft up (a blank mark) and where there is a blank in the motif, replace it with a (x) in the remaining quarters, thus we have:

This completes the weave.

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