10 of the bEst Real Ale Pubs

The Camra-organised Bristol Beer Festival will bring 150 artisan ales to Temple Meads this month. Its sold out, naturally, but here are some alefriendly locals. barley Mow Barton rd, St Philips, Bristol Bristol Beer factorys classic backstreet local showcases the brewerys best (and stoutest) ales as well as welcoming a guest or two. the bell walcot St, Bath this bursting heart of walcot nation is an ale-lovers haven, thanks to seven locally sourced ales plus guests and free live music. the Cornubia temple St, Bristol once found, the hidden Brewerys hidden pub rewards with a friendly welcome and a mighty fine selection of local beers. griffin inn monmouth St, Bath Since a complete refurb some four years ago, the Griffin has become a classy freehouse haunt for lovers of local ales. hare on the hill thomas St north, Kingsdown, Bristol Bath ales first boozer is a streetcorner classic with a full range of the brewerys beers. Old green tree Green St, Bath Blindmans exclusively brewed old Green tree is favourite among halfa-dozen well-sourced ales at this cosy and welcoming local. the raven Queen St, Bath this freest of free houses turns over 200 different brews a year hence regular camra accolades. seven stars thomas lane, redcliffe, Bristol another camraapproved treasure, serving eight ever-changing ales, this place claims to have been reassuringly open since 1760. the star the Vineyards (off the Paragon) wearing its history lightly, this abbey ales house offers a pinch of snuff and perfectly kept pints. three tuns St Georges rd, hotwells, Bristol owners arbor ales have added contemporary comforts as well as four guest beers and a trio of their own.

EatingoutWEst

reView DELMONICO

The neighbourhood restaurant that dishes up good food, good prices, and hospitality just as it should be

PIC CredIT: Mark sIMMons

ts not the only word that comes to mind but theres something enduringly nice about Delmonicos. Its first experienced in a warmth of service, making no demands on the customer but effortlessly providing exactly what it offers. Its not a sycophantic thing, nor obtrusive, but rather the best kind of old-school English hospitality, untainted by transatlantic bonhomie or continental attitude. But, happily, its not accompanied by the culinary cack-handedness that such Englishness might have served up in those Bad Old Days, with the menu offering a cosmopolitan mix of popular favourites. We tipped up on a busy Friday evening, with couples and larger groups spread around the split-level dining room, but all was calm. We picked a reasonably priced bottle of Moulin de Gassac (14.95) a full-tasting red that got on very affably with our starters. The Lodger had snaffled mussels in cream, garlic and wine sauce from the specials board, giving himself a fingerlicking good time with the generous heap of shellfish. I had pinkblushed chicken liver pate with a hint of booze on its breath and a very punchy dollop of homemade chutney alongside. Good stuff and worth savouring with that wine. While we paused before the mains arrived, I noticed the easy familiarity with which proprietors Nick and Tony chatted with some tables. People were chatting between tables, too, bearing out Delmonicos claim to be a neighbourhood restaurant. We certainly didnt feel excluded, however, especially when the generously sized main courses arrived.

Mine was a special two sizeable fillets of sea bream lightly grilled on a bed of sweet red pepper ragu and spiced up with salsa verde, each component nicely prepared and tasty, the whole a very well-balanced plate. Lodgers braised duck leg quarter had a piquant red cabbage and a full-flavoured red wine sauce, a rich, robust combination of flavours that pleased him mightily. With properly crisp side portions of new potatoes and purplesprouting broccoli, both were hearty meals to be enjoyed at a leisurely pace. They gave us a necessary breather before the desserts, also lavishly apportioned: a wedge of tuffety white chocolate cheesecake flecked with toasted coconut (Lodger: Oh yes!) and a heap of cream-rich homemade lemon and stem ginger ice-cream (Me: Hmm-mmm!). By this time there was an atmosphere of belt-loosening jollity around the room but no shouting or outrageousness we were English, after all and the prevailing mood was that of well-satisfied customers lingering before heading home. Our meal had rolled out at about 65 (including wine) and we too were well satisfied which is, after all, a very nice feeling. (Tony Benjamin)

DELMOniCO 217 GlouceSter rD, BriStol. ffi: 0117 944 5673, weB: www.Delmonico.co.uK

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Interesting and unpretentious food, carefully prepared and served with perfect hospitality

thE VErDiCt HHHHHHHHHH

72 folio/march 2012

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2/22/2012 2:54:43 PM