Step By Step Guide for Painting a Motorcycle

Another How-To From: Youtube.com/TheCousinDan

Were back at it again, this time with an in-depth instructional for painting a motorcycle or a car. This guide will show you exactly how to take a vehicle with poor or damaged paint work and turn it into a glistening masterpiece. Even without prior knowledge of painting, your work will yield great results when the instructions herein are followed. However, patience and determination are two qualities necessary for this project to work. Read all instructions before starting to avoid working yourself into a corner.

Preparing your work area

The preparation work that goes into a quality paint job is definitely the most time consuming; its also the messiest. It is important to find a place to work that has a washable floor. If you dont want to get your clothes dirty then it is suggested that you use a wire grate table like one you might have on your patio. You might prefer to wear old clothes and simply sit down and work on your lap; this is the easier, risk-free method. If possible, it is highly advised that you remove from the vehicle all parts and panels that will be painted.

The underlined times opposite of step headers are cues which correspond the video found at: www.youtube.com/thecousindan

Step 1: Wet sanding

1:20

1.) Cut out a 4 by 4 piece of each type of sand paper listed on the products page. 2.) Fill a shallow, wide-mouth container with tap water and submerse all three pieces of sand paper. 3.) Let the water and sand paper sit for 2-3 minutes. 4.) Start with the 400 grit piece (roughest) and scrub the surface you are repairing in a single direction until all visible dimples or scratches are removed. Rinse the paper in water every few seconds. If scratches are too deep, refer to the Damage Recovery section below. 5.) Now that the surface is smooth, and the only damage is that which was caused by the sand paper, you may move on to the next type of sand paper. Take your 1500 grit paper out of the water and scrub in the same straight pattern as before only in a direction perpendicular to that of the 400 grit paper. Work until you can no longer see the perpendicular scratches of the 400 grit sand paper. Be sure to rinse the paper in water every few seconds.

Step 2: Cleaning

6:58

1.) It is essential to have a clean surface when painting so that the paint will stick well and settle smoothly. The best way to remove debris is with rubbing alcohol on a cloth. Rubbing alcohol helps the rag pick up foreign particles and it evaporates quickly without leaving a film.

2.) For removing oil, grease or varnish it may be necessary to use a stronger solvent with the same qualities. You may also use other cleaners that will not weaken the base paint and primer. If using a residue-leaving cleaner, be sure to follow up with rubbing alcohol.

Step 3: Painting

6:49

1.) To set up the spray gun you will need a surface of some sort to practice on until you reach the desired spray pattern. The side of the gun should have at least two knobs, one for adjusting paint flow volume and one for adjusting air flow volume; air pressure is controlled at the compressor output jack. Air pressure should be at about 65 psi (lower if your paint gun can maintain a fine spray). 2.) For many paints it is suggested that you apply when humidity is less than 60% and when temperatures are over 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Follow directions on paint can for further application instructions. 3.) Attach a water filter to the air line. A water filter is usually bought as a cylinder about 2 inches long with threaded attachments on both ends for accommodating air line jacks. 4.) Set up parts on a stable mount so they dont fall over while wet. 5.) Screen any other areas and objects from over spray and wear a particle mask. 6.) Holding the spray gun 8 to 10 inches from the surface, spray in a pattern relevant to the shape of the part. Start and stop spraying while gun is not pointed directly at the part to avoid texture damage from large droplets.

7.) 3 coats are usually enough for most jobs. Make the first coat light and fine but completely covering. The second coat should be of medium thickness. The third coat should be heavy but not heavy enough to drip, run, or sag. Allow all coats to dry for 5 to 10 minutes before applying the next.

Step 4: Wet sanding

7:27

1.) Once paint has dried for at least 24 hours (again, this depends on the type of paint so read the can) you may wet sand the new surface. Start with the 1500 grit paper and rinse often. If coarser paper is needed, switch to the 400 grit but be very careful not to cut all the way through the paint. 2.) Follow the 1500 grit paper with the 2000 grit paper, again in a perpendicular pattern to be sure all scratches from the 1500 are removed. Rinse paper often.

Step 5: Compounding

7:52

1.) Apply dime-sized amounts of rubbing compound to the surface about 4 apart. 2.) Connect the foam disc to a power drill, dab compound, and start buffing. You may experiment with different pressures on drill in an inconspicuous area. 3.) Once maximum shine has been achieved from foam pads, hand cloths may be used to rub further using more rubbing compound in small amounts. When a base coat of colored compound has built up on a cloth it can be used to rub aggressively for the final shine. 4.) Wipe away leftover haze with a clean cloth.

5.) Apply car wax according to directions on container. Put panels back together and enjoy a summer of riding in style!

Damage Recovery
1.) Level 1 damage: Body Filler: To use body filler correctly it must be applied as close to the surface level as possible surrounding the damaged area. Follow directions on container for proper mixing ratios of resin and hardener. Fill the crack or other damaged area with an appropriate amount of filler and smooth it out with your finger or other object. Allow the filler to dry for several hours (read container) before sanding. You may experiment with wet or dry sanding as atmospheric conditions can change what the best approach may be. The final sanding should be done with 1500 or finer grit sand paper. 2.) Level 2 damage: Fiberglass: (2:36 on video) Cut out a piece of fiberglass cloth that is roughly the size of the area you need to repair. Using a disposable container, pour in enough resin to saturate the fiberglass cut-out and add the correct amount of hardener (read container) then mix. Apply some of the resin to the surface of the broken part then lay on the fiberglass and cover it with more resin. You will need to work the resin into the fiberglass before it will mat down in its proper drying position. Sand or cut off extra once it is completely dried. When laying fiberglass, be careful not to make the surface too rough, it will dry and become very hard to sand to a smooth level. If the damaged part has a crack due to stress, it is typically a good idea to reinforce the back side of part with fiberglass. Fiberglass can also be used to fabricate missing or broken parts.

Products Necessary with Price and Location

AZ = available at Autozone HF = available at Harbor Freight

1.) 3 stages of wet-or-dry sand paper a. 400 grit... $4.00 AZ b. 1500 grit. $4.50 AZ c. 2000 grit. $4.50 AZ 2.) 18 oz. bottle 1500 grit liquid rubbing compound.. $7.00 AZ 3.) Power drill attachment buffing kit with foam and wool pads $8.00 AZ 4.) 2 quarts of Paint Shop spray lacquer.. $23.00 ea. AZ 5.) Paint spray gun with water filter.... $18 to $60 HF 6.) 1 pkg. soft buffing cloths... $3.00 AZ

If Level 1 damage repair is necessary 7.) 1 quart body filler .. $10.50 AZ

If Level 2 damage repair is necessary 8.) Fiberglass 8sq. ft. ... $6.00AZ 9.) 1 quart fiberglass resin with hardener tube $15.00 AZ (Note: prices subject to change by location and time)