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Materials Thirty Six 2 x 4 Lengths 4 - 70.5, 2 - 49.75, 2 - 26.75, 6 - 26.5, 6 - 24.5, 16 - 21.5 Three .5 thick Plywood Platforms 2 - 24.5 x 24.5 for HLB and Kettle burners 1 - 24.5 x 22.25 for Propane Tank and Storage Shelf 60 - 3.5 x 14 Zinc Carriage Bolts, Nuts and Washers 34 - 2 length Zinc Lag Screws 2 Boxes - 2.5 Wood Screws, 1 Box - 1.25 Wood Screws 4 Wheels 2.0 hard plastic and 16 1.5 Lag Screws (2 which pivot under Kettle and 2 non-pivot under HLB) 4 - 4 x 4 x 2.5 Wood Blocks to keep the frame stationary Procedures - Read all instructions before starting Purchase only dry, straight 2 x 4s. Cut all 2 x 4 pieces to exact lengths using a table saw or chop saw. A hand-held saw wont produce 90-degree cuts. Assemble the Front and Back sides with a 2.5 wood screw at the center of each joint. Check for square angles. Cut the two burner platforms, notch each corner for proper fit, and place into final position. Attach cross supports, as shown on the Top View, with a 2.5 wood screw. Pre-drill holes to avoid wood splits. Check for square angles. Drill all holes for Carriage Bolts and Lag Screws, Insert bolts & screws and tighten. Screw-down the two burner platforms with 1.25 wood screws. Insert 2.5 screws on corners where appropriate. Be certain that the Mash Tun supports are level and that the
Materials 2 King Kooker Propane Gas Burners, Min. 130,000 BTUs 1 Propane Gas Tank and Nozzle, Regulator and Hose attachment 1 Brass T-Joint (for 3/8 tubing) 2 Brass Valves (for 3/8 tubing) 8 Brass Flare Nuts (for 3/8 tubing) 8 Rubber or Brass O-Rings (Sized to tightly fit on 3/8 tubing) 12 or more Feet of 3/8 Copper Tubing One tube of Pipe Dope 2 Aluminum Sheets 21.5 x 21.5 2 Steel Pizza Pans, 12 diameter and 6 short bolts with nuts Bag of 1/2 Copper Tubing Fasteners to attach Valves to Brackets 2 Small pieces of Steel to attach T Joint 6 U-Bolts 1.5, Bag of plastic 3/8 tubing clips
Plywood Brackets - As shown above, each bracket is designed with three layers of 1/2 plywood which act as a brace against shifting. Size the plywood brackets to allow the free turning of the flare nuts. The 3/8 in copper tubing will contact the 2 x 4s only along the bottom board. Construct the 3 plywood brackets - Cut and glue together. When dry, attach the 2 valve brackets to the frame, insert the valves, and secure with 1/2 copper tubing fasteners. Drill and install 3 bolts and nuts, spaced as legs, onto each pizza pan. The pans will act as a bottom heat reflector under the burners. Insert both burners and pans, centered on top of the platforms. (Caution: Align the burner gas ports with the location where the tubing will come through the platform.) Drill and secure each burner to the platform with 3 equally spaced u-bolts. Drill holes for the 3/8 tubing just outside of the burners. The system is constructed with 4 sections of copper tubing, with each section bent to fit. Measure and cut the 2 burner to valve sections. (Caution: Add approximately 1/2 to each section to compensate for the 2 flared ends.) Using the tube bender, bend each to fit. (Caution: Hold the tube carefully while bending to avoid sliding and kinking.) Insert first the flare nuts, then the o-rings and flare both ends. (Tip: By design, the flares should result in an airtight system. But Ive found that only when o-rings and pipe dope is used will a tight seal occur.) Apply pipe dope to all areas where gas may escape (coating - flares, orings and t joint). Attach tubing to the burners and valves. Tighten the flare nuts being careful not to over-tighten which may force the o-rings over the flared ends. Cut the HLB valve to t joint tubing and prepare in the same manner. Hold the tubing in place while the t joint bracket and t joint is installed snugly against the tubing. (Caution: The tubing will not fit into place if the t joint is installed first.) Prepare and tighten flare nuts. Install the kettle burner to t joint tubing and attach it to the bottom 2 x 4 using 3/8 plastic tubing clips. This will require the removal and chiseling of a 2 x 4 for the gas line. Install the propane support (cut to accommodate the gas line) and platform. Install the propane tank and line with regulator. Test the system for leaks using soapy water and your nose. Everything should be airtight except the valves. In my experience, all valves will leak slightly. Replace if more than a minor leak. Light the burners and fully test the system. Be careful.
Materials 4 Aluminum Sheets 20.5 x 12.5 4 Aluminum Sheets 18.5 x 12.5 12 Rivets (medium size) Procedures HLB Heat Shield: Cut four aluminum sheets, 2 20.5x 12.5 and 2 18.5 x 12.5, using tin snips. Tip: Mark the sheets with a felt-tip pen and straight edge for cutting. Lightly file the edges to avoid cutting yourself. Mark and cut out the 5x5 view hole using a drill and tin snips. Mark folding lines 1.0 from each end on front and back sheets. Mark and drill 3 centered rivet holes on each end as shown above. (Total of 12) Bend the 4 ends to a 90-degree fold as shown above. Remove the 4 carriage bolts, which will secure the heat shield to the frame. Assemble the 4 sheets into postion on the frame Mark and drill the 4 holes for the carriage bolts. Bolt the back and front sheet to the frame. While all 4 sheets are aligned, mark the rivet holes on the side sheets. Remove from the frame, drill rivet holes and insert rivets. Bolt the completed heat shield to the frame. Kettle Heat Shield:
Materials 3 Sanke Kegs - with handles & cylindrical sides, 23x15.5, capacity 15.5 gal 6 Stainless Steel Couplings, 1/2ID Several Stainless Steel Welding Rods (#304) for the welder to use on couplings --- Available from Welding Supply stores 1 Mash Screen, Model: Keg folding on legs, approximately $75 --- Available from: Precision Brewing Systems, 718 667-4459
Materials 1 Copper Tubing 1.5 x 13.5 2 Copper Tubing .5 x 1 1 Copper T Joint 1.5 x .5 x 1.5 1 Copper Reducer 1.5 x .5 Silver Solder (Lead free) Silver Solder Paste Steel Wool 1 Steel Hot Water Heater Element Converter (Screw-in to Bolt-on) 1 Hot Water Heater Element 12 or 13 long (Screw-in style, 240volts, 4500watts) 2 Straps for 1.5 Tubing (Copper or Steel) Procedures Cut the 1.5 diameter copper tubing to 13.5 in length. File edges of this tube and all to follow. Cut off 0.5 of the top end of the t joint. (Caution: Must be a 90-degree cut so that the element fits in evenly.) Alternative: Dont use the t joint and drill/solder .5 copper tubing into the side of an extra long 1.5 tube. Apply soldering paste to the bottom edge of the converter and place top-down onto a table. Connect the 1.5 tubing to the bottom end of the t joint and apply paste to the top of the t joint.
Immersion Method The immersion method chills the boiled wort by recirculating cold water through the following path: Cold water in mash tun to pump 1 to copper plumbing to immersion chiller (shownabove) back to mash tun
Procedures Note: The 50-foot coil of flexible tubing is necessary when 10-gallon brews will be chilled. Otherwise, a 25-foot coil, which will reach up to the middle of the kettle, is adequate to cool 5-gallon brews. Step 1 - Wrap the coil of flexible tubing around a 5 gallon soda keg or 9.0 cylindrical object. Leave enough tube on the ends to extend to the supply and return connections. Step 2 - Bend the tube at the top out toward the cooling water supply connection. Bend the tube at the bottom up to the top and then out to the cooling water return connection. OR: Construct the same tubing for supply and return, except use solid tubing and elbows as shown above. This size copper tubing is available only at plumbing supply stores for contractors, not hardware stores. Note: Solid tubing will require that some soldered fittings come into contact with the brew. Reportedly, when solder contacts hot brew, it may result in chill haze in the finished beer. My system utilizes soldered fittings on the chiller with no perceptible result in chill haze. Your choice. Step 3 - Support the sides of the chiller with straight lengths of flexible or solid tubing. Leave at least a 1 gap between each loop of the chiller. Bind the straight tubes to the chiller with pure copper wire (home electrical copper wire). If solder in the kettle is acceptable, solder some or all of the twisted ends where copper wire has been used. It will add strength to the chiller and reduce the chance of the wire becoming undone. Assemble the connections to the water supply and return as shown above. Use short pieces of braided rubber tubing at the end of the 3/8 copper tubing. Braided tube adds flexibility and will allow easier connection. The plastic or metal hose connectors screw together for quick removal.
Counterflow Method The counterflow method chills the boiled wort by recirculating cold water through the following path: Cold water in mash tun to pump 1 to outer copper tubing in counterflow back to mash tun. While the hot wort follows this path: Boiled wort in kettle to inner copper tubing in counterflow (by gravity) to end of tubing and into a bucket. The temperature of the 212-degree wort is instantly reduced to approximately 75 when it exits the system. Wort may be chilled as quickly as gravity and tubing will allow. Pumping water through the inner tubing with an additional pump (pump 2) after it has been brushed may clean the system. Brushing to remove cold break material is done after the unfastening of the clamped flexible copper tubing. Even though this system has not been constructed, I am convinced that it will work well. The design took into account existing counterflow technology in which the hot wort and cold water flow in opposite directions for at least 15 feet. Most commercially available systems chill with tap water at normal flow rates. My system utilizes a pump for rapid flow over 18 feet using cold water from the mash tun. The water in the mash tun may also
Materials 2 Little Giant Pumps, Model # 2P579 ($89.25 each from Graingers)( www.grainger.com) Graingers sells only to businesses that have an account with them. Individuals cant purchase from them. Ask a local business to purchase the pump(s) for you. 2 Pump Supports, (See step 1, Frame) 4 Hex Bolts (to attach pumps) Procedures Pump 1recirculates the mash. Moves the runoff to the kettle. If either the counterflow or immersion chiller is installed, it moves cold water from the mash tun through the copper tubing to the chiller. Pump 1 must be installed. Pump 2 has one purpose only. It forces clean, hot water from the kettle through the counterflow heat exchanger to clean the system. Therefore, it is necessary only when the counterflow system is installed. Attach both pumps with 2 x 4 supports.
Materials Type T Thermocouple (4 x 1/8) Omega, model: TJ36-CPSS-18G-4, $28, 800 8484286, www.omega.com 3 Temperature Gauges Grainger model: 2A608, Dial style with 4.0 probe, $45.60, www.grainger.com (bus accnt) Copper tubing and fittings (1/2, 3/8), Hoses and Clamps, Ball Valves for Chiller systems, Miscellaneous hardware Procedures Follow the diagram above for the particular chiller system to be installed. Install the 3 temp gauges using Teflon tape. Install the thermocouple as shown above. Use a rubber washer with a center hole much smaller than the thickness of the probe. A tight fit will stop the mash from leaking. The probe must be long enough to contact the flow of mash. Plan the plumbing so that mash fluid will not be trapped in the section of tubing before the chiller ball valve (#2). This will avoid mash in the chiller lines. Plan the plumbing path so that all liquid may be drained after use of the brewery. Note that hose is not reliable in areas subject to heat. Copper is more durable and lasts longer.
Materials Electrical Boxes and cover plates 2 or 3 Home Electrical Wall Switches 2 - 3-Way Switches 1 Home GFI Electrical Outlet 12-3 Gauge SJ (Soft Jacket) Wire for electrical connections Panel constructed from 2x4 wood Controller Omega, model: CN8592-DC1-DC2, $150, 800 848-4286, www.omega.com Solid State Relay (25-amp capacity) Omega, model: SSR240DC25, $29 Finned Heat Sink Omega, model: FHS-2, $17 Fast Blow Fuse Optional read below, Omega, model: KAX-25, $10 Fuse Box Optional read below, Omega, model: FB-1, $7 Electrical Cord and 3 prong Plug for the end. Rated for 120 volts. Miscellaneous hardware for electrical connections Procedures Construct a frame from 2x4s to support a control panel and attach as shown above. Attach the boxes for the switches, controller and outlet to the panel. Attach the solid state relay on top of the heat sink and attach to the backside of the panel frame. My system utilizes a home 15-amp breaker circuit. But the representatives at Omega Electronics recommend the use of a Fast Blow Fuse and Box to protect the controller system. Ive used my brewery several times without problems. If you are concerned about