Professional Documents
Culture Documents
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MICHAEL S. SANDERS
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
RUSSELL FRENCH
CONTENTS
Introduction Southern Maine: Kittery to Kennebunk
Anneke Jans Joshuas Restaurant Pier 77
Portland
Bar Lola Boda Caiolas Cinque Terre five fifty five Fore Street Vignola
In the 2nd edition of Fresh From Maine, author Michael Sanders takes you deep into the world of 25 Maine chefs, their stories, challenges, secrets, and triumphs. More than 80 recipes, nearly half of them new to this edition and all brought to life by Maine photographer Russell French, capture the true bounty of this land and its waters. Each chefs cuisine is very much his own, but they share one thing: they all work in the sustainable idiom with local farmers, animal raisers, and fishermen to bring the best, all-natural food, much of it organic, to their tables. Join us in discovering culinary outposts and innovative chefs all over the state, from Fryeburg to Hallowell, from Bangor to Brunswick and coastal Maine from Kittery to Mount Desert.
How This Book Was Created Restaurant Contact and Opening Information Index of Recipes
Caiolas
wouldnt stop calling, filling their ears with news of a North End jewel box of a space for their restaurant, which the two
had already decided to name after Lisas grandmother, Caiola.
fter 14 years at Street & Co. where she finished up as Executive Chef, Abby Harmon packed up a van and headed out to travel the country for a year with her partner, Lisa Vaccaro. Except that a persistent friend
Ingredients
1 pounds salt cod cup+3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil cup heavy cream 2-3 cloves of garlic, cleaned and minced 1-2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, washed and peeled 1 leek, white part only, cleaned and sliced fine pound oil-cured black olives, pitted Zest of orange
Abby went in, Lisa recalls, laughing, and she went right up to this beautiful old cork and wood door, the door to the walk-in. I want this place, she said. Didnt look at the space. Didnt think how many seats or where does the bar go. I knew you could do the structural stuff, the kitchen. Abby replies with a shrug. Thats why were a good team. And right there, you have pretty much the essence of what makes Caiolas so much more than just a comfy, reasonably-priced, neighborhood joint with great fish just one part of an accomplished, unpretentious menuthough it is all of those things, too. Abby, from Cutler, almost as far downeast as you can go, brings a deep and real connection to rural seacoast New England cooking and traditions, amply influenced by European travel and Italian dinners around the table of her partners extended family. I love being in New England, she says, because you can take all the fish here but cook it like you were in Sicily or France or Spain, with those flavors, using those techniques and ideas. Like the Sicilian Sardine Pasta I make. I was raised on sardines, my mom packed sardines in a factory downeast, and its just been a part of my life. But now add Sicily, where theyll throw in fennel, currants, pine nuts . . . She finishes, almost smacking her lips. Lisa, an artist and cabinetmaker, is responsible for the just-so surroundings, all terracotta floors and barn board tables and trim, which together with the comfort food, give Caiolas a groove more pub than formal restaurant. Abby gets to be creative in the kitchen, she says, but I get to be creative out here. She gestures at the space, which includes an intimate nook right when you walk in, then an open foyer and bar, to the right and rear two other areas with tables tucked behind half walls because, she continues, I wanted to make sure every table was next to a wall. Its more comfortable and private for people, I think, or they can eat at the bar if they want company. Finnan haddie, cod brandade, beef tongue, and grilled sardinesall of these youll find on the menu, for Abby is faithful to the food of her youth. My uncle had whole sides of butterflied salt cod hanging from his porch, she remembers, and finnan haddie you ate with an egg sauce. My mom would make New England boiled dinner, but with salt cod in place of the corned beef and plenty of beets, carrots, potatoes, and cabbage. Chef Abby Harmon
62 Caiolas | Portland
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Boda
place on Portlands Longfellow Square. We decided to be bolder, says Dan, to change everything. In short, they decided to throw out all the received wisdom about this particular ethnic dining experience. Start fresh with a highceilinged main room with a hip, quasi-industrial look and subdued lighting that makes everyone look good. Add a roomy bar on one side where small plates and cocktails with an Asian edge rule as the night advances. Drop the take-out to better focus on sit-down customers. Most important, reinvent the food, with an even bolder but actually more authenticThai cuisine taken directly from Dans upbringing as the son of a restaurant owner in Nan, Thailand. When I was a kid, he says, Id wake up and help my mother steam the rice, peel the onions, make the curry paste. She always took me to the market so I learned about the ingredients, too. Bodas food, says Bob, is the food we eat every day in Thailand. We were cooking it for staff meal, for the employees. (Bob and Dan also depart from form in that, while the kitchen is mostly Thai, the front of the house is not.) They loved it! They would ask, why dont you just sell this out there, in the restaurant? What is Thai street food? Usually it is small, uncomplicated items served in a traditional way that you can eat standing up without much fuss or muss. At Boda, you can start with a crispy, soy-and-5-spice marinated, deep fried quail or GaengKua mussels in a rich curry broth, says Bob. How about simple, grilled skewers of beef, fresh seafood, and pork belly, or a pomelo salad on green betel leaf, or fresh local oysters with a chili-lime mignonette. More substantial entres include fried rice with Jonah crab claws and Maine crabmeat, pork hocks braised with star anise, basil-lime beef curry or lamb in coconut cream with crunchy peanuts over Jasmine rice. The menu is much more than a nod to local, though the spices may be more exotic. In the spring youll find a bowl of steamed fiddleheads and glass noodles with chili and fish sauce on offer, in the winter a refreshing simple Maine shrimp and apple salad in a dressing of palm sugar, lime, coconut, and spices. Theyve adapted where they had to for certain ingredients, says Katie Boone, their long-time GM, like with the shrimp and apple salad. This is a traditional dish usually made with a special kind of tart, under-ripe mango unavailable here. Who came up with the idea of using crisp, fall Cortlands and Braeburns instead? My mother. Says Dan with a laugh. When she says something is good, you know its good. After ten p.m., Boda morphs from sit-down into another scene altogether. We serve until 1 a.m., Katie points out. Portland doesnt have many restaurants 48 Boda | Portland Chefs Bob Wongsaichua and Dan Sriprasert
fter building one successful pan-Asian restaurant from the ground up from recipes to design, dcor, and staffchefs Bob Wongsaichua and Dan Sriprasert turned to their other restaurant, which was an uncomplicated Thai
serves 4
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By Michael S. Sanders Photography by Russell French ISBN: 978-0-9844775-2-4 Pub Date: June, 2012 Price: $32.50 US/ $37.95 CAN Hardcover
25 destination chefs (Sam Hayward, Steve Correy, Lee Skawinski, and many more) and restaurants from Kittery to Mount Desert Island, 80+ recipes, 140+ full color photographs of chefs and their food.
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