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com MORE FEARLESS KNITTING: ON THE BIAS, FOR DIAGONAL FABRIC

Beginning at one corner and increasing at each edge produces a fabric that has diagonal direction to stitches and rows. I consider this truly fearless knitting as all work is done to a measurement, so gauge considerations are not as important and fit is almost guaranteed (although you must still pay attention!). Diagonal knitting is a wonderful way to use up odds and ends, as gauges dont need to match exactly and neither do back, front and sleeves. Our sample shell uses lots of different size 3 yarns for a fun, gradated look. Here are some hints for succesfully knitting on the diagonal: Garter stitch is the easiest, because the stitch to row ratio is 1:2. A typical garter stitch gauge might be 4 sts and 8 rows per inch. To make a square (90) angle, one stitch at each end should be increased every two rows (every other row). Stockinette is tougher, as the stitch to row ratio is closer to 2:3. A typical stockinette stitch gauge might be 4 sts and 6 rows per inch. If increases were made every other row as for garter, the angle would be wider than 90, and any seam would twist around the body instead of being vertical. So for stockinette stitch, increase at each edge for two consecutive rows, then work one row even with no shaping. That gives a six row repeat: Row 1: K and increase. Row 2: P and increase. Row 3: K. Row 4: P and increase. Row 5: K and increase. Row 6: P and increase. Make increases in the first stitch, and in the next to last stitch to balance them. Make increases by knitting in the front, then in the back of each stitch. Always measure along the selvedge edge, not from the corner to the needle. Once you have reached the dimension you want, shape the other corners by decreasing: work ssk or ssp at beg of appropriate rows and k 2 tog or p 2 tog at end of appropriate rows, depending on whether you are working garter or stockinette stitch. If you want a piece that is longer than it is wide, work to the width, then continue to increase at one end while you decrease at the other end. Do this for as long as the piece needs to be, then begin decreasing at both ends. Once you begin to increase at one end and decrease at the other, even if you are working stockinette stitch you can work every other row without throwing the corners out of square. Whether you increase or decrease at the beginning or end will determine what direction the stripes will run, which becomes important when trying to match fronts and backs.

LAURA BRYANT2009

We used here a variety of Prism size 3 & 4 yarns, including: Dazzle Super Dazzle Tulle Trieste Frost Azalea Bon Bon Tencel Pinot Flirt Cleo Sushine In colors that include: Harvest Blue Lagoon Captiva Orchard Mojave Arroyo

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Back
20 (22, 24, 26)
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Diagonal Shell

Designed by Laura Bryant2009

Sizes: S (M, L, XL) Finished bust approx 40 (44, 48, 52) Body is slightly oversized to allow for drape. Materials: approx 700 (800, 900, 1000) yds size 3 & 4 yarns, plus 80 yds trim yarn Needles size 8 or size to get gauge Crochet hook size E & F Gauge: In garter st alternating 3 yarns of 1 row each: 18 sts & 34 rows = 4 Note: Gradated color blending is easy. Before beginning, lay all yarns out lightest to darkest. If you have purchased a kit, the skeins are already labeled A, B, C, etc. Label your own custom choice as needed. 3 different yarns are used for 1 row each: CO with A; drop A and attach B; k 1 row B; drop B and attach C; k 1 row C and A is waiting for next row. To keep yarns from tangling, place one ball on either side and one ball between your legs, and watch when you turn the work: one direction tangles, the other direction does not. Color gradation is achieved by working A, B, C for a few inches, then B, C, D, then C, D, E and so on, arranging colors loosely from light to dark. Work front as mirror image of back (begin from other corner). Work back first, then work front approximating color placementit doesnt have to match exactly. Work more rows of yarns with more yardage, even if it means that sometimes a yarn is used for longer than its rotation. As you work, check remaining amounts of yarn and make any adjustments. Dont worry about breaking the rotation and repeating a yarn if neededwe did! We had 9 different yarns, labeled A through I. Adjust measurements below if you have more or fewer yarns. Back: With A, CO 3 sts. With B, inc 1 in first st, k to end. With C, inc 1 in first st, k to end. Inc in the first st on all rows. Make all measurements along selvedge edge, not from corner to needle. Work A, B, C to approx 6 (7, 8, 9), then drop A and add D. Work B, C, D to approx 12, then drop B and add E. Work C, D, E to approx 17. Work D, E, F to 20 (22, 24, 26), then cont on D, E, F, beg dec: work to end of row, k 2 tog last 2 sts. Measuring from 1st decrease, cont in D, E, F to approx 3 from corner. Work E, F, G to approx 8. Work F, G, H for to approx 14. Work G, H, I to approx 20 (22, 24, 26): When 1 st remains, fasten off. Front: Repeat as for back. Finishing: Sew shoulder seams, leaving approx 7 (8, 8, 9) open for neck. Sew side seams, leaving approximately 3-4 open at hem for side slit. With trim yarn, work 1 row sc and 1 row rev sc around hem and slits, and around neck and armhole openings.

20 (22, 24, 26)

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