Berlit:

Algarve

pocket guide

Algarve
Front cover: Praia do Carvalho, near Portimo Below: rock formations at Praia da Rocha

TOP I 0 ATTRACTIONS

CONTENTS
| In tro d u ctio n A B rie f H is to ry W h e re to G o
A > in the text denotes a highly recommended sight

i
13

25

W estern A lgarve................................................ 25
The Sagres Peninsula 25, Lagos 2 9, The Coast Around Lagos 33, Northwest o f Lagos 34, Portimo 34, Praia da Rocha 38, Serra de Monchique 40, Silves 42, Ea st o f Portimo 45

Albufeira and C entral A lg arv e......................48

Albufeira 48, Hill Villages ofA lte and Salir 50, Ea st from Albufeira 5 1, So Loureno dos M atos 54, Loul 55, Towards Faro 57

Faro and E nvirons................. ......................... 58

Old Town 60, Town Centre 6 1, Praia de Faro 63

Eastern A lg a rv e ..................................................64
Olho 64,Tavira 6 7 ,Around Tavira 69, Castro M arim 70, Vila Real de Santo Antnio 7 1

Excursion to L isb o n ........................................ 72

W h a t to Do

79

S p o r t s .....................................................................79 Shopping................................................................86 E ntertain m en t.....................................................89 Childrens A lg a rv e ............................................. 91

Eating O u t H andy T ra v e l T ip s H o te ls and R e sta u ra n ts H Index

Features
School o f Navigation H istorical Landm arks Fishy B usin ess ......... The M anu eline Style. Filigreed F lu e s ........... A zu le jo s ...................... Bullfighting ................. Folklore S h o w s ........ C a len da r o f E ven ts . B a ca lh a u ...................

94

103 128

........................................................... 143

IN TRO D UC TIO N
o r m u ch o f the w o r ld , th e A lg a rv e is sy n o n y m o u s w ith P o rtu g a l, y et th e P o rtu g u e se w ill tell y o u the e x a c t o p p o site : th e re g io n h a s little in c o m m o n w ith the re st o f the co un try . T h e so u th e rn stretch o f c o a s t is m o re rem in isce n t o f a N o rth A fric a n la n d sc a p e th an a E u ro p e a n on e. It h as no c o sm o p o lita n cities, su ch a s L isb o n an d P o rto , w hich are fu r th er n o r th . M o s t o f P o r tu g a l is k n o w n f o r q u a in t to w n s , m e d ie v a l c a s tle s a n d g r a n d p a la c e s . T h e A lg a r v e is m o re re c o g n isa b le fo r to u r ist a p a r tm e n ts, h o tels an d g o lf co u rse s. A n d b e a ch es. T h in k A lg a rv e a n d the m in d p ictu res lo n g , g lo r io u s str e tc h e s o f g o ld e n s a n d s , se c lu d e d c o v e s fra m e d by o d d o c h re -c o lo u re d ro ck f o r m a tio n s, a n d d eep g re en w a te r s. W ith a b o u t 1 6 0 k m (1 0 0 m iles) o f co astlin e, P o r tu g a ls so u th e rn p ro v in ce is on e o f E u r o p e s p re m ie r b e a c h d e stin a tio n s. T h e o c c a sio n a lly ch illy o c e a n is the A tlan tic, b u t the A lg a rv e h as a su ltry M e d ite r ra n e a n feel.

Sun, Sand and Sports

A p a rtm e n ts in Q u a r te ir a

T h e A lg a r v e s co n siste n t cli m a te is th e b e st in P o rtu g a l, a n d o n e o f the k in d e st in the w o rld : m o re th a n 2 5 0 d a y s o f su n sh in e a y e ar - m o re th an a lm o st a n y o th er in te rn a tio n al r e so r t a re a . T h e m o d e ra tin g effe ct o f the G u lf S tre a m p r o d u c e s a fresh sp rin g tim e breeze th ro u g h o u t w inter, a n d in late Ja n u a r y a n d F eb ru ary , w hite
A se c lu d e d c o v e in th e W e ste rn A lg arv e

Introduction a lm o n d b lo sso m s b la n k e t the fie ld s. In su m m e r th e h e a t is in te n se b u t ra re ly u n b e a r a b le , a n d r e g a r d le s s , b e a u tifu l b each es a n d in n u m erab le p o o ls are alw a y s ju st a drive aw ay. M a g n ific e n t y e a r-ro u n d w e a th e r h a s m a d e th e A lg a rv e a h u ge d e stin a tio n fo r sp o r tin g h o lid a y s . S u p e r b g o lf f a c ili ties a b o u n d - se v eral w ith tees d ra m a tic a lly clin gin g to cliffs an d fa ir w a y s ju st sk irtin g the ed g e o f the o c e an - a n d h o rse ridin g, ten n is, b ig -g a m e fish in g , sa ilin g a n d w in d su rfin g are im m en se ly p o p u la r . S p o rts, b e a ch es a n d h o sp ita b le w eath e r - n o t to m en tion the in c re a sin g n u m b e r o f lo w -c o st c a r r ie rs - are su rely the re a so n s th a t the A lg a rv e receiv es a s m an y v isito rs a s the rest o f P o rtu g a l in its en tirety. B u t it s n o t ju st in te rn a tio n a l to u rists th a t d escen d o n th e A lg arv e ; m an y P o rtu g u e se fro m L isb o n a n d elsew h ere in the n o rth h av e h o lid a y h o m e s an d sp en d th eir su m m er h o lid a y s here.

A Coastal Province
T h e c o a st is n eatly d ivid ed in to the ru g g e d B arlav e n to to the w e st a n d th e fla t b e a u ty o f S o ta v e n to to th e e a s t. W est is w h ere y o u ll find the fa m o u s oran ge cliffs an d surreal erod
For centuries, alm ond, fig, olive and carob tre e s have rep resen ted a m ajor p art o f Algarve's agriculture, as they are suited to dry inland areas.T hanks to the gentle clim ate,A lgarve also p rodu ces pears, apples, quinces, loquats, dam ask plums, p om egran ates, to m ato e s, m elons, straw berries, avocados and grapes.

ed ro ck stack s. N e a r C a b o de S o V icen te a n d S a g r e s, the ex tre m e w e ste rn p o in t, the terrain is su rp risin gly barren anc^ t^ fa c ilitie s d ec id e d ly le low -key. T h e o c ean c a n also be fo rb id d in gly co ld. T o u r ist r e so r ts clu tter the en tire m id d le o f th e c o a s t, fro m L a g o s to F a r o , w ith a sp e c tr u m o f h o m e s a w a y fro m h o m e - m o n ste r h igh -

Y oung b e a c h g o e r s a t P raia d e D o n a A n a

r ise s t o s p a c io u s , sin g le -sto r e y v illa s - sp illin g a c r o s s the rollin g hills a n d lining the beach es. R e so rts su ch a s P o rtim o , A lb u fe ira a n d V ila m o u ra w o u ld a p p e a r to h ave little ro o m left to grow , yet to u rist facilities seem to m ate w ith each other a n d re p r o d u c e o v ern ig h t. M u c h o f th e u n sto p p a b le g ro w th is c r a s s a n d frig h te n in g ly c o m m e r c ia l, a n d th e c r o w d s in su m m er u n b e a ra b le . T h e eastern th ird o f the A lg arv e is a m o re se d ate m arriag e o f c o a st an d o c ea n , w ith w arm w aters an d h o t sa n d s stretch in g p a s t the w e tla n d s o f R ia F o r m o sa to the S p a n ish border. T h e A lg a r v e s m o s t p ic tu r e sq u e to w n , T a v ir a , is a lo n g th is se ctio n o f the c o a st. A w ay fro m the c o a st, the terrain slo p e s th ro u gh p in es, m i m o sa , e u c a ly p tu s a n d h eath e r to an altitu d e o f n early 9 1 5 m (3 ,0 0 0 ft). H o lid a y m a k e rs w ish in g to e sc a p e th e m a d d e n in g b e a ch c ro w d s c a n ru n fo r the h ills, e sp ecially the ta n ta lisin g S e rra de M o n c h iq u e . t _________________________ ._______________________________________

Introduction

People of the Sea

T h e r e g io n s e x o tic n am e is derived fro m the A rab ic , AlGharb, m ean in g co u n try o f the w e st . T h e w e ste rn m o st territory o f E u ro p e w a s high ly p riz e d by N o r t h A fric a n M o o r s , w h o o c c u p ie d it fro m the 8th to the 13 th cen tury. T h e ir h a lf m illen n iu m h ere le ft in d e lib le t r a c e s , se en to d a y in w h ite w a sh e d h o u se s, h ill-to p c a stle s an d c o lo u rfu l ceram ic tiles. F o llo w in g the recapture o f

M ending th e n ets

Ib e ria by C h ristia n s, the A l g arv e led P o rtu g a l to glory. Prince H en ry the N a v ig a t o r estab lish ed h is N a v ig a tio n S c h o o l alo n g P o rtu g a ls so u th ern co ast, and intrepid explorers set ou t in caravels from L a g o s an d Sagres. In the 1 5th a n d 16th centuries, they ushered in an A ge o f Discovery, ro u n d in g A fric as C a p e o f G o o d H o p e an d even tu ally reach ing In d ia an d the Pacific. O th ers fo u n d their w ay to the A m ericas a n d Brazil. O pen in g w o rld trad e rou tes acro ss the g lo b e, they establish ed P o rtu g al a s a m aritim e superpow er. P o rtu g al so o n la p se d into decline, th o u g h , tattered by w ars an d co n stitu tio n a l crises, an d fo r tw o cen tu ries o r m o re the A lg a rv e re m a in e d is o la te d fro m th e r e st o f E u ro p e . E ven th o u g h th e c o a s t rece iv ed m a n y illu str io u s v is ito r s fro m R o m a n tim e s th r o u g h th e M id d le A g e s a n d u p to th e E d w a r d ia n p e r io d (w h en tr a v e lle rs c a m e to lu x u ria te in M o n c h iq u e s sp a w a te rs), the A lg a rv e s elite h o lid ay sta tu s is a relatively recent p h en o m en o n . T h e first reso rt on the co ast, P raia d a R o c h a , w a s on ly d isc o v e re d in the 1 9 3 0 s, a n d the real bu ild -u p d id n t k ick in to overd riv e u ntil the early 1 9 8 0 s.

P e o p le o f t h e S e a

S p a in s C o s ta d el S o l d ev e lo p ed earlier a n d m o re rapidly, yet th e le s so n s o f r a m p a n t, ill-a d v ise d d e v e lo p m e n t a c r o ss the b o rd e r w ere n o t h eed ed. O n ly recently h a s en v iro n m e n tal a n d aesth etic c o n sc io u sn e ss a t le a st m a n d a te d th at new er d ev e lo p m en ts a re lim ited in h eigh t. Yet - d esp ite the to u rism o n sla u g h t - p a r ts o f the A lgarve retain th eir o ld -fa sh io n e d ch arm . T h e m a in r o a d alo n g the c o a st, the N 1 2 5 , is lined w ith ce ram ic sh o p s an d stifled w ith su m m er tra ffic, b u t the co u n try sid e to the n orth is a different w o rld . O rc h a rd s a n d g ra in field s rep lace h o tels, a p artm en ts a n d sn a c k b a rs. A slow , ru ral lifesty le p ersev eres a g a in st the ru sh o f m o d ern life. F o r c e n tu rie s, fish in g h a s been the A lg a rv e s life b lo o d . Sm all fishing villages preserve th eir sim p le a n d u n a ffe c te d w a y s, seem ingly o b liv io u s to the to u r ist h o rd e s. S c ra p p y crew s o f sm all h an d -p ain ted b o a ts troll the w aters ju st o ff sh ore, an d traw lers fish deep in the A tlan tic fo r bacalhau (c o d ), w h ich is b e lo v e d by the P ortu gu ese. A v isit to the lo c a l fish m a r k e t is a re v e a lin g w in d o w in to A lg a r v ia n life. N e g o tia tio n s are se rio u s b u t frien dly . T h e sa m e sc e n a r io is p la y e d o u t a th o u sa n d tim e s a d a y a t m a r k e ts all a c r o s s th e r e g io n ; ev e ry to w n h a s a m a r k e t d a y a t le a st once a m o n th . F a rm e rs
W h ite w a sh e d h o u se s recall th e r e g io n s M o o rish h e ritag e

brin g their livestock to trad e, an d a r tisa n s an d v en d o rs sell th eir w are s. N o t a la r g e a r e a , th e A lg a rv e is re lativ e ly e asy to g et aro u n d , w h eth er by train o r car (an effo rt th at is m u ch m o re r e la x in g o u tsid e o f the m a in su m m e r se a s o n ) . T h e d is ta n c e s b e tw e e n m ega r e s o r ts a n d u n sp o ile d v il la g e s are su rp risin g ly sm all.

Vestiges of the Past

T h e A lg a r v e s m a jo r a t tr a c tio n s , b e sid e s b e a c h e s , are to w n s th a t h av e lived th rou gh centuries o f trium ph a n d d isa ste r. F a r o , T a v ir a
T iled h o u se s in Tavira

a n d L a g o s h av e a str o n g M o o r is h in flu e n c e , a n d th e

q u iet m o u n tain to w n s o f Silves, A lte an d Salir are rem in d ers o f the d a y s b e fo re g o lf c o u r se s a n d h o tel ch ain s. D espite the reg io n s an cien t ro o ts, few historic m on u m en ts su rvive fro m b e fo re 1 7 5 5 , w h en the A lg a rv e w a s r o c k e d by a m o n u m en ta l e a rth q u a k e . Still, y o u ll fin d v estige s o f a v i b ran t p ast, including evocative castle ruin s an d churches w ith e x tra o r d in a r y d isp la y s o f P o rtu g u e se g la z e d tiles. E ven the h u m b lest v illa g e h a s a c la s sic w h ite ch u rch , a sle ep y p la z a sh a d e d by vivid p u rp le ja c a r a n d a , a n d , if y o u tim e it righ t, the d ra m a o f the lo c a l m ark e t. T h e P o rtu g u ese a re fa m o u sly h o sp ita b le , if reserv ed . A n d th ey re m a in to le r a n t a n d h e lp fu l, ev en th o u g h th ey k n o w th a t th eir lovely c o a s t is n o lo n g e r ju st th eirs.

A BRIEF HISTORY
E u r o p e s so u th w e s te r n e x tre m ity . T h e a n c ie n t G re e k s called them the C yn etes (or C u n etes). W h atev er their origin s, th eir cu ltu re evolved u n der the p re ssu re an d influence o f fo r e ig n fo rc e s. A m o n g th e m a n y in v a d in g a r m ie s th a t se ttled h ere a n d c o n tr ib u te d to n a sc e n t P o r tu g u e se c u ltu r e w ere P h o e n ic ia n s, w h o se ttle d in th e a r e a a r o u n d 1 0 0 0 B C , f o l lo w e d by th e C e lts, Ib e ria n s, G re e k s a n d C a rth a g in ia n s. B u t it w a s the R o m a n s, w h o arrived late in the 3 rd century B C , w h o m o st g re a tly in flu en ced Ib e ria. T h ey b u ilt to w n s, r o a d s an d b rid g es, d evelop ed in d u stries an d agricu ltu re, an d b e q u eath ed the L a tin lan g u ag e , o f w hich P o rtu g u ese is a d e scendant. T h e R o m an s nam ed the southw estern province o f the pen in sula L u sitan ia, after one o f the C eltiberian tribes they had defeated, an d by the 3rd century A D h ad introduced C hristian ity. By the early 4 th century the A lgarve h ad a b ish op in place, based in F aro . But R o m e h ad fallen into decay, an d soon hordes o f n o rth ern trib esm en to o k over the em pire. T h e A lg arv e fell to th e V isig o th s in the m id -5th century.
W a te r w h e e l and w ells a re a legacy o f th e M o o rs

ittle is k n o w n o f th e e a r lie st S to n e A g e in h a b ita n ts o f

Under Moorish Rule

Tn A D 7 1 1 , the M o o rs brought p ow erfu l arm ies fro m N o rth A frica an d launch ed a d ev as ta tin g a tta c k o n the Ib erian p en in su la , c o n q u e rin g m u ch o f w h at w ou ld becom e Spain a n d P o rtu g a l. T h ey im p o se d Islam an d left an indelible in

History fluence on the coun trysid e an d p o p u latio n o f the A lgarve. T h e M o o rish legacy c a n still be seen in the fo rm o f w ells an d w aterwheels, sq u at white houses, the d ark com plexion s o f the p eo ple an d in the very n am e o f the regio n - tak e n fro m Al-Gharb, which m eans country o f the w est (when the M o o rs conquered the territory, it w a s the m o st w esterly in the k n ow n w orld ). T h e M o o r s g o v ern ed th eir Ib e rian k in g d o m s fro m a c r o ss the b o rd er in Seville, bu t the A lgarve h ad its ow n regional c a p ital and huge, invulnerable fo rtress. T h e cap ital w a s C helb (or X e lb ), a n d it w a s b ig g e r a n d b e tte r d e fe n d e d th a n L isb o n . T o d a y the tow n , k n o w n a s Silves (see page 42), is a p rovin cial o u tp o st w h o se on ly besiegers are b u slo a d s o f to u rists. T h e stru gg le by C h ristian s
T h e fo r t r e s s a t C a s t r o M arim

to e x p el th e M o o r s (a c a m p a ig n k n o w n a s th e Recon quista, or R econ q u est) began in th e late 8th ce n tu ry A D . By th e 1 1 th centu ry, P ortu cale co n siste d o f a sm all sec tio n o f te rrito ry p re v io u sly h eld by C a stile a n d L e n (w hich becam e to d a y s n orth ern P o rtu g a l). Yet it w a s n t u n til th e 1 2 th ce n tu ry th at sig n ific a n t g a in s w ere m a d e to tak e b ac k sou th ern Ib eria. T h e b e g in n in g o f the end cam e in the Battle o f O u riqu e in 1 1 3 9 . A fte r the victory , C o u n t A fo n so H e n riq u e s p r o c la im e d h im se lf the first k in g o f P o rtu g a l, m a k in g it on e o f the first n atio n -state s in E u ro p e .

U n d e r M o o r is h R u le

15

T h e R e c o n q u e st o f Silves, n o t ach ie v ed fo r a n o th e r 5 0 y e a r s , w a s a g risly a ffa ir. A m ix e d b a g o f C r u s a d e r s fro m n orth ern E u ro p e w ere re c r u ite d en r o u te to th eir b a ttle s e a s t in th e H o ly L a n d . T h e y sa ile d u p o n the riv er p o r t o f S ilv e s a n d , ig n o rin g c o n d itio n a l o ffe r s o f su rren d er, slew a ll the in h a b ita n ts (at no sm all lo ss to th em selves) a n d p illa g e d the g re a t tre a su re s o f the city. T w o y ears later M u slim forces rallied ag ain , retak in g Silves, a n d the Reconquista stu m b led on fo r an oth er h a lf century. So m any inter-religious alliances reigned, an d so pervasive w as the interm ingling o f M o o r s an d C h ristian s, th at it w as h ard to tell w h o w a s on w hich side an d fo r w hich piece o f lan d they w ere fighting. T h e situ ation w a s further clo u d ed by a feu d betw een P ortu gal an d Spain , each o f them claim ing sovereignty over the A lgarve. H ow ever, by 1 2 4 9 F aro an d the w estern A lgarve were retaken u n d er K in g A fo n so III, co m p letin g the Reconquista. T h e p o ssib ility o f w a r w ith S p a in w a s averted by an e x p e d i tio u s ro y a l m a rria g e , a n d a t the cen tu ry s clo se a treaty w ith S p ain drew u p the b o u n daries o f P o rtu g al th at stan d today. T h e A lgarve w a s a region regarded separately w ithin the new P o rtu g al, as is evidenced by the roy al title K in g d o m o f P ortu g al an d the A lg arv e . In th ose d ay s, the n otio n o f the A lgarve a s a distinct entity d id m ak e som e sense: like an islan d , it w as cu t o ff to the sou th an d w est by the A tlan tic, to the east by the G u a d ia n a River, an d to the north by the Serra de M o n ch iq u e m o u n ta in ra n g e . T h e r e g io n s titu la r a u to n o m y w a s u p h eld until 1 9 1 0 , w h en the m on arch y itself w a s overthrow n.
U ltim ately, th e C h ristian in fluen ce p revailed in Silves

16

History

Henry the Navigator

In 1 4 1 5 , lo n g a fte r th e Reconquista w a s c o m p le te d , a P o r tu g u e se fleet a sse m b le d on the R iv e r T a g u s in L isb o n , read y fo r an a ssa u lt o n the M o o r s in th eir h o m e la n d . C ro ssin g the S tr a its o f G ib r a lta r , th e a r m a d a a tta c k e d a n d se iz e d th e N o r th A fric a n city o f C e u ta . A n illu str io u s m em b er o f the fa m o u s ra id w a s the y o u n g P rince H en ry - h a lf P o rtu g u ese a n d h a lf E n g lish - a n d the so n o f K in g J o o I a n d h is w ife, P h ilip p a o f L a n c a ste r. C e u ta w o u ld be H e n ry s o n e a n d on ly m ilitary victory, th o u g h he w a s d estin ed to e sta b lish P o rtu g al a s a m a jo r w o rld p o w er, h e lp in g to d e v e lo p im p o r ta n t w o rld tra d e ro u te s by the tim e o f h is d e a th in 1 4 6 0 . T h e w a te rs a t the w estern ex tre m e o f th e A lg arv e w ere all th a t w a s k n o w n to sa ilo r s. O n ce th ey w ere b e y o n d C a b o de S o V ice n te , th ey fa c e d th e u n k n o w n , w ith n o c o m m u n i ca tio n s a n d n o p o ssib ility o f resc u e if the v o y a g e tu rn ed o u t badly. Yet o u t in to the u n k n o w n they w en t; fo r the g lo ry o f G o d a n d co u n try , a n d in se a rc h o f p e r so n a l fa m e an d f o r tu n e. T h e ir m issio n w a s m a d e e a s ie r by th e c r a f t A lg a r v e

School of Navigation
At the age o f 2 1, Henry assembled a School o f Navigation. It was cer tainly not a formal institution o f lectures and classes, but probably re sembled an informal modern-day think-tank. Prince Henry - made governor o f the Algarve in 14 18 - had the money, influence, enthusiasm and vision to lead and cajole the best astronomers, cartographers, boatdesigners and seamen o f the day to expand Portugal's maritime horizons. According to tradition, the site o f Prince Henry's base was the Sagres peninsula (see page 25), though there is little there today to persuade you o f this.The actual headquarters o f the Navigation School may have been 40km (25 miles) east, in Lagos (see page 29).This location had a p ort ship yards and was home to the prince in his role as governor o f the Algarve.

F o r e ig n In tr ig u e s

sh ip w r ig h ts h a d d e v e lo p e d , a su c c e sso r to the lu m b erin g sh ip s o f the d a y : the carav el. It w a s lig h t, fa s t a n d v ery m an oeu vrab le. W ith the su b se q u e n t d ev e lo p m en t o f new n a v ig a tio n a l te c h n iq u e s, it w a s n o lo n g e r n e c e ss a ry to sta y w ith in sig h t o f la n d . N o w the o n ly lim its to m a r itim e ex p lo ratio n w ere m a n s in gen u ity a n d c o u ra g e . D u r in g H e n r y s life tim e , P o rtu g a ls ca ra v e ls sa iled b e A tr ib u te t o H e n ry in L agos y o n d the m o st w esterly p o in t o f A frica. T h ey co lo n ised the A tla n tic isla n d s o f M a d e ir a an d the A z o re s, lay in g the fo u n d a tio n s fo r the fu tu re P o rtu g u ese E m p ire . B efo re the ce n tu ry w a s over, H en ry s co m p a trio ts B arto lo m e u D ia s an d V asco d a G a m a c o m p le te d e p ic v o y a g e s , r o u n d in g th e C a p e o f G o o d H o p e an d reach in g In dia, respectively, an d P ed ro A lves C a b r a l cla im e d B razil. B etw een 1 5 1 9 a n d 1 5 2 2 an o th e r P o r tu g u e se e x p lo re r, F e rd in a n d M a g e lla n , led th e fir st e x p e d i tio n to c ir c u m n a v ig a te th e w o r ld . M e r c a n tilist P o rtu g a l b e ca m e a rich m a ritim e su p erp o w er.

Foreign Intrigues
T o p r o te c t its se a g o in g in te re sts a n d tra d e ro u te s, P o rtu g al e sta b lish e d stra te g ic g a rr iso n s in G o a (In d ia), M a la c c a (E ast In d ies) a n d H o rm u z in the P ersian G u lf. P o rtu g u ese e x p lo r ers th en e m b a rk e d u p o n M a c a u (n o w M a c a o ) , th e C o n g o a n d v a r io u s o th er p a r ts o f A fric a , in c lu d in g the S u d a n . T h e P o rtu g u e se p o lic y w a s to a v o id a rm e d strife a n d to d ev elo p a tra d e em p ire, ra th er th a n to c o n q u e r n a tio n s. T o this end

History

Beyond the grave

For many years a fter his death, legends and ru m ours bizarrely insisted th at King Seb astio w as still alive, and im p osters turn ed up from tim e to tim e claiming the throne; th o se w ho w ere plausible enough to be deem ed a th reat w ere sum marily executed.

it su c c e e d e d w ith re la tiv e ly fe w b lo o d - s o a k e d e p is o d e s in its c o lo n ia l history. A d v e n tu re s a b r o a d , h o w ever, p ro v e d d isa str o u s d u r in g th e se c o n d h a lf o f th e 1 6 th ce n tu ry . In 1 5 5 7 the 14 -y ear-o ld b o y -k in g S e b a s

ti o a sc e n d e d th e th r o n e , the b e g in n in g o f a c a la m i to u s reign th at w a s to end at the b attle o f A lcace r-Q u ib er (M o ro c c o ) in p u rsu it o f a v ain c r u sa d e . S e b a s t ia o s u n tim e ly d em ise, alo n g sid e so m e 1 8 ,0 0 0 ill-p rep ared , b a d ly led fo l lo w ers, set the sta g e fo r a crisis o f su c c e ssio n . T h e o n ly rig h tfu l c la im a n t to th e c r o w n w a s an eld erly prince, H enry. B u t a fter tw o y ears o f alte rn atin g betw een the th ron e a n d h is sic k b e d , he d ie d , h eirless. S p a in , se n sin g an o p p o r tu n ity , o c c u p ie d th e p o w e r v a c u u m , a n d P o r t u g a ls n eig h b o u r a n d lo n g -tim e a n ta g o n is t b e cam e its m aster. S p an ish ru le d ic ta te d P o rtu g a ls in ad v e rte n t in v o lv e m en t in S p a in s o n g o in g w a rs. In 1 5 8 7 a sq u a d r o n o f E n glish sh ips co m m a n d e d by F ra n c is D r a k e a tta c k e d the A lg a rv e (n ow a leg itim a te ta r g e t a s S p a n ish te rrito ry ) a n d sa c k e d S a g r e s, th u s d ep riv in g the w o rld o f the relics o f H en ry the N a v ig a tor. N in e y e a rs la te r F a r o w a s to rc h e d by c o m m a n d o f the E arl o f E sse x . T h e 1 3 8 6 T re aty o f W in d sor, by w h ich E n g la n d a n d P o rtu g a l h a d p le d g e d etern al frie n d sh ip , se em ed a d ista n t m em ory. P o rtu g a ls em p ire w a s g ra d u a lly e r o d e d , a n d m a n y o f its trad in g p o sts (w ith the ex cep tio n o f Brazil) w ere pick ed o ff by the E n glish a n d D u tch . Finally, after 6 0 y ears o f Sp an ish rule, P ortu gu ese n ob lem en (aid ed by the French, then a t w a r w ith Spain ) o rg a n ised a p a la c e c o u p an d resto red independence.

T h e G r e a t D isa ste r

19

The Great Disaster

P o rtu g als greatest m isfortu n e stru ck on A ll S ain ts D ay, 1 N o v e m b e r 1 7 5 5 . W ith c a n d le lit ch u rc h e s c r o w d e d w ith w o r sh ip p e r s, a n e a r th q u a k e stru c k , fo llo w e d by fa st-sp r e a d in g fires an d a d ev astatin g tid al w av e th at sw ep t over the A lgarve a s fa r a s 6 .5 k m (4 m iles) in lan d . T h e e x a c t c a s u a lty fig u re w ill n ev er be k n o w n , b u t it is e s tim a te d th a t 5 ,0 0 0 died im m ed ia tely a n d betw een 4 0 ,0 0 0 an d 6 0 ,0 0 0 p erish ed a s a resu lt o f se co n d ary inju ries an d the en suin g fam in e an d p esti len ce. T h e e p ic e n tre o f th e e a r th q u a k e is th o u g h t to h av e been o ff the A lg arv e c o a st, p o ssib ly betw een T av ira an d F aro , b u t it d e v a sta te d p la c e s a s fa r a w a y a s the c a p ita l, L isb o n . T h r o u g h o u t th e A lg a rv e a n d m u ch o f the re st o f so u th ern P o r tu g a l, v ir tu a lly ev e ry im p o r ta n t m o n u m e n t, c a th e d ra l, c a stle an d m a n sio n w a s d e stro y e d , o r a t le a st critically d a m a g e d in the e a r th q u a k e . A m o n g the h a rd e st-h it to w n s w a s
T h e e ffe c ts o f th e e a r th q u a k e w e r e felt a s fa r aw ay a s L isbon

History L a g o s (see page 29) w hich lo st its castle, its ch u rch es an d the p a la c e in w h ich H en ry the N a v ig a t o r h a d once lived.

Political Upheaval
T h e b e g in n in g o f th e 19th ce n tu ry b r o u g h t fu rth e r a la r m . T h is tim e the ep icen tre w a s P aris, an d the c a u se o f the p r o b lem s, N a p o le o n . Ju s t a s P o rtu g a ls fo rc e d allian ce w ith S p ain h ad m ad e the co u n try a ta rge t fo r D r a k e s 16th-century raids, n o w her frien dly a llia n c e w ith B ritain ra n k le d N a p o le o n . In 1 8 0 7 the Fren ch in v a d ed L isb o n , c a u sin g the ro y a l fa m ily to flee to B ra z il. S p a in , fo llo w e d by P o r tu g a l, r o se u p a g a in st the Fren ch o c c u p a tio n , in w h a t cam e to be k n o w n as the P e n in su la r W ar. A m o n g the early b lo w s stru ck fo r in C a p e S t V in cen t d ep en den ce w a s a rebellion in th e to w n o f O lh o (see page 64). O n 16 Ju n e 1 8 0 8 , the to w n sfo lk - a rm e d w ith little m o re th a n an c ie n t sw o r d s, sp e a rs a n d sto n e s a tta c k e d a n d c a p t u r e d the lo c a l F re n ch g a r r iso n . T h e re a l b a ttle , h ow ever, w a s w a g e d u n d er the le a d e rsh ip o f th e D u k e o f W ellin gto n , w h o se c o a litio n fo rc e s e x p e lle d th e F re n ch a fte r tw o y ears o f bitter fighting. T h e w a r left P o rtu g al fu r ther w e ak e n e d , a n d in 1 8 2 2 its m a jo r em p ire o u tp o st, Brazil, declared independence. A t the sa m e tim e, a d isp u te ov er the cro w n c o n tin u ally

K in g d o m s E n d

21

rag e d betw een P ed ro IV, the absentee m o n arch w h o preferred to reign a s E m p e ro r o f B raz il rath er th an retu rn to P o rtu g al, a n d h is b r o th e r M ig u e l. T h e p o w e r str u g g le , w ith str o n g o v e rto n e s o f a b so lu tism v ersu s lib e ralism , ex cited the inter est an d intervention o f other p ow ers. W ith British help, P edro d e fe a te d M ig u e l o f f C a p e St V in cen t in 1 8 3 3 , a n d h is e x p e d itio n a r y fo rc e m a rc h e d to L isb o n . P ed ro t o o k th e th ro n e, th o u g h a rm e d stru g g le co n tin u ed fo r m o n th s. By 1 8 9 2 P o r tu g a l, ra c k e d by w a r s a n d th e c o n tin u in g e x p en se o f m a in ta in in g its A fric an co lo n ies (in clu d in g th o se o f M o z a m b iq u e a n d A n g o la ), d ec lared itse lf b a n k ru p t. T h e seed s o f d isco n te n t w ith a b s o lu tist rule w ere so w n .

Kingdom's End
O n 1 F e b ru a ry 1 9 0 8 , the r o y a l fam ily w a s rid in g in an o p en c a r r ia g e a lo n g the L isb o n riv erfro n t p la z a , T erreiro d o P ao , w h en an a ssa s sin o p en ed fire an d k illed K in g C a rlo s a n d the heir to the th ro n e , P rince L u is F ilip e. T h e p r in c e s y o u n ge r b ro th e r, P rin ce M a n u e l, w a s a ls o h it, b u t he su rv iv e d an d w a s th u s p r o p e lle d to th e th r o n e a t th e te n d e r a g e o f 1 9. A m id r e p u b lic a n a g ita tio n , a s u r p r ise u p ris in g led b y e le m en ts w ith in the a rm e d fo rc e s d e p o se d M a n u e l in 1 9 1 0 . T h e su d d en en d o f m o re th an seven centu ries o f m on arch y b ro u g h t co n fu sio n a n d crisis to the country. P resid e n ts an d p rim e m in isters w ere u sh ered in to an d o u t o f o ffice an u n b e liev a b le 4 5 tim es b etw een 1 9 1 0 a n d 1 9 2 6 , u n til a m ilita ry revolu tion su spen d ed P o rtu g als p roblem atic dem ocracy. A fter s ix y ea rs o f pow er, G en eral O sc a r C a rm o n a a p p o in te d his fi n ance m inister, A n t n io de O liveira Salazar, to be p rim e m in ister, a p o sitio n he w a s to h old until 1 9 6 8 . S a la z a r s repressive ru le a n d a u ste rity m e a su re s rid the P o rtu g u e se ec o n o m y o f d e b t, th o u g h p o v e rty in c re a se d . P o rtu g a l re m a in e d n eu tral d u rin g W orld W ar II, a n d S a la z a r d e m o n stra te d h is fin an cial acu m en by sellin g m a te ria ls a n d su p p lie s to b o th sides.

22

History In 1 9 6 8 th e e ld e rly S a la z a r w a s f o r c e d in to r e tire m e n t a fte r a str o k e . H is su c c e sso r, D r M a r c e lo C a e ta n o , feelin g the sp ir it o f th e a g e , b e g a n te n tativ e r e la x a tio n s o f the o ld reg im e. T h e a rm e d fo rc e s fin ally o v e rth re w h im in a p o p u la r b lo o d le ss c o u p , k n o w n a s th e C a r n a t io n R e v o lu tio n , o n 2 5 A p ril 1 9 7 4 . P o rtu g a l fin a lly b e g a n to p u ll its e lf o u t o f th e lo n g an d fru itle ss str u g g le a g a in s t r e v o lu tio n a r ie s in its A fr ic a n co lo n ies, an d g ran ted in d ep e n d en ce to the re m ain in g m e m bers o f its em pire in 1 9 7 5 . T h is, to o , cau se d m a jo r u p h eav als, a n d a m illio n p e rm an e n t refu g ees ru sh e d to the m o th erlan d , a g g r a v a tin g the sh o r ta g e o f h o u sin g an d jo b s. A lth o u g h e c o n o m ic p r o b le m s c o n tin u e d to b e se t th e y o u n g d em o c ra c y , th e p o litic a l scen e w a s g re a tly sta b ilise d . In 1 9 8 6 P o r tu g a l, th e fo r m e r p o o r b a c k w a te r o f E u r o p e , jo in e d the E u ro p e a n E c o n o m ic C o m m u n ity (n ow th e E u r o p ean U n ion , o r E U ). W ith aid fro m the E U , P o rtu g al becam e one o f the fa ste st-g ro w in g co u n tries in E u ro p e . T h e A lg arv e, a lre a d y a fa v o u rite o f su n -seek in g b each lo v e rs fro m the U K an d n o rth ern E u ro p e , a lso b en efited fro m E U fu n d s to build u p its in fr a str u c tu r e a n d to T h e E stad io d o A lg a rv e is a in v e st in to u rism . F aro la n d m ark T h e S o c ia lis ts r e g a in e d p o w e r in 2 0 0 5 a n d th eir m ain p rio ritie s h av e been to revive the slu g gish e c o n o m y (one o f the slo w e st-g ro w in g in all o f E u ro p e fro m 2 0 0 0 2 0 0 6 ) an d stem risin g u n em ploy m en t. T o u rism in the A l g a rv e , how ever, co n tin u es to flo u r is h , w ith a r o u n d tw o m illio n v is ito r s d e sc e n d in g o n its sh o re s every year.

H isto rical L an d m arks

c. I000B C Phoenicians settle in the Algarve region.
7 0 0 B C Celtic tribes arrive. 20 5 B C Romans create Lusitania province.

5th century Algarve falls to the Visigoths.

71 I M oors arrive on the Iberian peninsula and swiftly conquer it. 88 3 N orthern Portugal (Portucale) regained by Christian forces. 1 13 9 C oun t Afonso Henriques declares himself first king of Portugal. 1 147 Lisbon taken by Afonso Henriques. 118 9 Silves taken by the Christians; regained by the M oors 1191. 1249 M oors are finally expelled from the Algarve. 13 8 6 Treaty of W indsor confirms England-Portugal alliance. 1415 The Atlantic island o f Madeira reached by explorers under the pa tronage o f Henry the Navigator, starting the Age o f Discoveries. 14 9 8 Vasco da G am a opens a sea route to India. 15 0 0 Pedro lvares Cabral reaches Brazil. 15 8 0 Portugal falls under Spanish rule for 60 years. 15 8 7 English fleet sacks Sagres. 1755 The G reat Earthquake devastates the Algarve, as well as Lisbon. 18 0 7 Napoleonic tro o p s invade Portugal at the start of the Peninsular W ar; royal family leaves for Brazil. 1 8 2 9 -3 4 Civil w ar between Pedro IV and Miguel I. 1892 Portugal declares itself bankrupt. 1908 King C arlos I and Prince Luis Filipe assassinated. 1910 Monarchy overthrow n; Portugal becom es a republic. 19 3 2 Antnio de Salazar becom es prime minister and effective dictator. 1974 The Carnation Revolution restores dem ocracy; Portugal pulls out of African colonies and a million expatriates return. 1986 Portugal joins the European Economic Community (now the EU). 2 0 0 2 The euro replaces the escudo as the national currency. 2 0 0 4 Portugal hosts the European Football Championship. 2 0 0 5 The Socialist Party regains pow er under Jo s Socrates. 2 0 0 9 Parliamentary elections.

25

W H E R E T O GO

he A lg a rv e stretch es fro m the A tlan tic O c e a n to S p ain ,

bu t its a c tu a lly a sm a ll reg io n . F a r o , the c a p ita l, is ju st 5 0 k m (3 0 m ile s) fr o m th e S p a n ish b o rd e r, a n d it is o n ly

1 1 2 k m (7 0 m iles) w est o f w h at w a s k n o w n in m ed ieval tim es a s o fim do mundo (the en d o f the w o rld ) a t S a g r e s. A lo n g th is 1 6 0 k m (1 0 0 -m ile) c o a sta l strip , r e so rts a n d h o lid a y v il la g es o f all ty p es h av e sp ru n g u p , so w h erever y o u are b ased , y o u ll n ev er be fa r fro m a g o o d b e a c h , a r e a so n a b ly sized to w n , v illa g e , o r re so rt, sh o p s an d n igh tlife. T h e fo llo w in g p a g e s co v er the A lg a rv e fro m w est to east, th ough you could certainly d o the reverse or begin in the centre, in o r aro u n d F a ro , an d em b ark on d ay trips both east an d w est fro m th ere. T h e (as yet) toll-free A 2 2 m o to rw a y , o r IP1, p ro v id e s fa st a c c e ss a c r o ss the re g io n , ru n n in g n o rth o f the slow -goin g, c o a sta l N 1 2 5 . F o r th ose w ith ad d itio n al tim e an d an interest in seeing the P ortu gu ese cap ital, a brief section on L isb o n is included. L isb o n is a b o u t tw o to three h ou rs by train o r car (and 4 0 m inutes by plane) fro m F a ro ; it sh o u ld be co n ceived a s an ad d -o n to y o u r visit to the A lg arv e rath er th an a d ay trip. M a n y p eo p le visit the A lg arv e by flying into L isb o n and driving to the south co ast. F o r indepth coverage o f L isb o n s m ain sig h ts a n d a ttr a c tio n s, a lo n g w ith d e taile d h otel an d restaurant listings, w e recom m end Berlitz Pocket Guide Lisbon.

W EST ER N ALGARVE
The Sagres Peninsula
If you begin your journey at Sagres, you m ay be in for a shock. T h e sta rk to w n a n d a re a aro u n d it scarcely lo o k the p a rt o f a
Fishing b o a ts in L ag o s h a r b o u r

26

W estern Algarve fab led beach resort w ith a M e d iterran e an feel. R ather, it is re m ote, ru g g ed a n d desert-lik e, w ith only a relative sm atterin g (com pared to the rest o f the A lgarve) o f hotels, restau ran ts and other facilities aim ed a t tou rists. It is like the A lgarves o u tp o st, w hich is precisely w h y it h as so m an y adm irers. S a g r e s co n n ectio n s to the se a are stro n g . Prince H en ry the N a v ig a t o r e sta b lish e d h is N a v ig a t io n S c h o o l h ere (th o u gh so m e p ro te st th a t it w a s fu rth er e a s t, n e a r L a g o s). T h e to w n h a s a p ic tu r e sq u e w o r k in g h a r b o u r, w h ere sm a ll, b rig h tly p a in te d fish in g b o a ts b o b a n d la r g e r v e sse ls h a u l in d aily catch es o f lo b ster, eel a n d m ack e re l. A co u p le o f re sta u r a n ts are clu stered a ro u n d the h arb o u r, w ith im p ressiv e view s. In la n d , a cu te little sq u a r e , P ra a R e p b lic a , is rin g e d by in fo rm a l (an d , in su m m er, h eavin g) n ig h tsp o ts. T h e b e st b e ach es n ea r S a g r e s are sh eltered an d n o t o v e r cro w d e d . M are ta , d o w n b e lo w th e pousada (go v ern m en tT elh eiro B each o n th e w e s t c o a s t

S a g r e s P e n in su la

ow n e d inn), is the m o st p o p ular. M artin h a l, ju st e a s t o f th e h a r b o u r, is a w id e , cu rv ed b e a c h w ith a firstc la s s w a te r - sp o r ts ce n tre. B elich e (a lso w ritten Belixe) is a sa n d y e x p a n se p ro tected by th e C a p e o f S t V in cen t. T o n e l, ju s t b e fo r e B e lich e, a n d T e lh e iro , a b o u t 9 k m (6 m ile s) u p th e w e st c o a s t fr o m S a g r e s , a r e a ls o w ellr e g a rd e d b e ach sp o ts.

H enrys Sagres
H enry the N avigator Infante D om H enrique w as bequeath ed the land around Sagres in 1443 by his brother. H enry lived within th e castle and died in Sagres in 1460, though his rem ains w ere later tran sferred to the Batalha m on astery north o f Lisbon.

B e y o n d th e v illa g e o f S a g r e s , a g r e a t, r o c k y p e n in su la h an g s a b o v e a b ro o d in g ocean . Y o u ll u n d erstan d why, in the d a y s b e fo re the g re a t P o rtu g u ese ex p lo re rs set o u t fro m here s e e k in g to d isc o v e r th e g r e a t b e y o n d , it w a s k n o w n a s the E n d o f the W orld. T h o s e w ish in g to p u t a p o sitiv e spin on th in g s ca lled it S ac ru m Satu rn i - H o ly P ro m o n to ry - and believed th a t the g o d s sle p t here. Sin ce tim e im m e m o r ia l th is fo rlo r n p la c e h a s stirre d the im a g in a tio n . It sh o o k H en ry an d his sa ilo r s, w h o are said to h ave set u p c a m p a t the F o rta le z a de Sagres (F o rtress; daily M a y - S e p t 1 0 a m - 8 .3 0 p m , O c t-A p r 1 0 a m - 6 .3 0 p m ) th at sits o n the p ro m o n to ry . U n fortu n ately , n o t m u ch o f the o rigin al h a s su rvived . M o s t o f it is a 17th-centu ry fo rt th at w a s insen sitively re sto re d . In 1 9 9 1 , the w alls o f this m o n u m en t w ere r e su rfa ce d w ith grey co n crete, m a sk in g the ex tern al c h a r a c ter o f the b u ild in g . T h e fo r tr e s s s p rin c ip a l b u ild in g , w h ich m ay h ave been H e n ry s h e a d q u a rte rs, n o lon g er ex ists. W h at y o u ll fin d in sid e is a sm all 16th -cen tu ry ch ap e l, N o s s a Sen h o ra d a G r a a , a n d w h a t lo o k s to be a h u ge sto n e su n d ial, k n o w n a s the R o sa dos Vento s (R o se C o m p a ss). W hether, in f a c t, it w a s a w in d c o m p a s s u se fu l in th e g r e a t v o y a g e s is

W estern Algarve u n k n o w n . A m o d ern hall on the fo r ts g ro u n d s h o u ses an ex h ib itio n area. A c o u p le o f k ilo m e tre s (1 m ile) w e st o f S a g r e s are th e m o re au th e n tic re m a in s o f another fortress, Fo rtaleza do B e lich e . T h is sm a ll, a t tra c tiv e 1 7 th -c e n tu ry c a stle h o u se s a w h ite, d o m e d c h a p el (S a n ta C a ta r in a ). B o th the fo r t a n d c h a p e l, h o w e v er, th r e a te n to c o lla p s e b e c a u se th e su r ro u n d in g cliffs a re e r o d in g a t a frig h ten in g rate. E ffo rts to sh o re u p the c liffs a n d sa v e th e h isto r ic

Shuttin g o u t th e w o rld in sleep y Burgau

site h ave recently been u n d ertak en . T h e w in d sw e p t c liffs o f C a b o de S o V ic e n te , the m o st so u th w esterly p o in t in E u ro p e , w ere o n ce su rely even m o re b le a k th a n th ey a r e to d a y , w h e n s u p e r ta n k e r s a n d s m a ll y a c h ts h e a v e in to v ie w a r o u n d th e c a p e . B u t ev en o n the c a lm e st o f d a y s , th e A tla n tic th u n d e rs b e lo w a n d th e w in d w h ip s a r o u n d th e c a p e . A t th e tip o f th e p o in t , th e lig h t h o u se , b u ilt in 1 9 0 4 o n th e site o f a c o n v e n t c h a p e l, h a s a b e a m v is ib le u p t o 9 6 k m ( 6 0 m ile s) a w a y . V is it o r s c a n c lim b th e s ta ir s to a h o t, e n c lo se d lo o k o u t. T h e first settlem en t o f an y size o u tsid e S a g r e s is V ila do Bispo, situ ated 7 k m (4 m iles) to the north. T ak e a b reak in the peacefu l to w n s p lea sa n t, flow er-filled g ard en sq u are an d p ay a visit to the 1 8th-century p arish church. T h e w alls are covered w ith azulejos (tiles) an d the ceiling decorated w ith frescoes. A b o u t h a lfw a y b e tw e e n S a g r e s a n d L a g o s , S a le m a is re g a rd e d a s an u p -a n d -co m in g r e so r t o f th is stretch , w ith a

Lagos lively sp r in k lin g o f b a r s a n d r e sta u r a n ts, a p le a s a n t b e ach w ith fish in g b o a ts an d a m ark et. B u rg au , 3 .2 k m (2 m iles) e a st, is sm a ll a n d sleepy. F ish in g b o a ts pu lled u p o n to the end o f the r o a d lead in g d o w n to the beach jo stle w ith c a rs. T h e b e ach here is less attractiv e th an th o se a t n e ig h b o u rin g I.u z o r S a le m a , b u t th e sm a ll v illag e re ta in s its e a sy g o in g ch aracter. L u z is a p le a sa n t se a sid e tow n . A ll th at rem ain s o f o ld L u z is the church a n d , op p osite, the fortress, w hich h as been reno vated an d con verted into a restau ran t. T h ere is a g o o d beach with w ater-sports facilities an d large, flat rock s for sunbathing.
.

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Lagos
T h e p rin cip al re so rt o f the w estern A lg arv e, Lagos is the rare b e a c h to w n th a t o ffe r s so m e th in g f o r e v e ry o n e . B y n ig h t L a g o s is lively, w ith o u t d o o r r e s ta u r a n t te r r a c e s a n d b a r s
D u sk falls on L a g o s m ain s tr e e t, th e R ua 2 5 d e A bril

W estern Algarve a ttr a c t in g a h ip p e r c r o w d th a n m o s t r e s o r ts on the c o a s t , a n d by d a y it c o m b in e s a rich h isto r ic a l p a s t w ith a b u sy p resen t. A ttr a c tive b e a c h e s are ju st o n the o u tsk irts o f to w n , so it is n ot a c la ssic re so rt in the style o f P raia d a R o c h a . Y o u r fir s t v iew o f L a g o s w ill p r o b a b ly be fro m the lo n g , r iv e rsid e A v e n id a d o s D e sc o b rim e n to s, w h ich d iv id es the o ld w a lle d city fro m
F o rte d a P on te d a B an d eira

the p o rt. A t the o th er en d o f the aven ue, the w ell-restored

fo rtress, F o rte da Ponte da B an d e ira, g u a rd e d the en tran ce to the h a rb o u r in the 1 7th century. C ro ss the river to see busy fish erm en , h a n d so m e b o a ts an c h o re d in the m a rin a an d the fine v iew o f the city a b o v e the w alls. M a n y o f the stree ts r is in g to w a r d s the to p o f to w n are n arro w , c o b b le d a n d m o re acc u sto m ed to d o n k e y s th an rental cars. T h o u g h L a g o s tow n still retain s a g o o d p a r t o f its o rig in a l w a lls - m o st o f them fro m the 1 6 th century, b u t p a r t-R o m a n in p la c e s - they h ave been rebuilt a n d e x p a n d e d over the centuries. C lim b the r a m p a r ts fo r fine view s o v er the p o r t a n d o u t to se a. L a g o s w a s a n im p o r ta n t tr a d in g p o r t u n d e r the M o o r s , bu t the to w n en jo y ed its h ey d ay after the C h ristia n R e c o n qu est. It w a s p r o c la im e d the c a p ita l o f the A lg a rv e , an d the g o v e r n o r s p a la c e b e ca m e th e h e a d q u a r te r s o f P rince H enry. A fo rm a l sta tu e o f H en ry, se a te d w ith se x ta n t in h a n d , h as been erected o n P ra a D o m H e n riq u e n e x t to th e m ain a v enue. A rg u m e n ts p e r sist o v er the e x a c t w h e r e a b o u ts o f the p r in c e s S c h o o l o f N a v ig a t io n , b u t it se e m s a lm o s t c e rta in

Lagos th a t L a g o s w a s the p r in c ip a l sh ip y a rd a n d p o r t se rv in g his team o f ex p lo re rs. T h o se w ere g lo ry y e a rs, b u t so m e o f w h a t w a s g lo rio u s in th o se h e a d y tim e s to d a y c a n se em r e p r e h e n sib le . E x p lo ra tio n s a lo n g the w est c o a st o f A fric a in th e m id -1 5 th ce n tu ry e s ta b lish e d a flo u rish in g sla v e tr a d e , a n d L a g o s w a s a k ey p la y e r in h u m a n c o m m e rc e . J u s t b e h in d th e sta tu e o f H enry, o n the c o rn e r o f R u a d a S e n h o ra d a G r a a , y o u can still see the sm a ll a rc a d e w here P o rtu g a ls first slave au ctio n s to o k p la c e . A sm a ll p la q u e sta t e s sim p ly M e rcad o de E s cravo s (Slave M a rk e t). M o s t oth er h istoric b u ild in g s aro u n d the sq u a re su cc u m b ed to the d e v astatin g earth q u ak e o f 1 7 5 5 (see page 19). T h e m a jo r ity o f the c ity s a ttra ctiv e bu ild Igreja d e S an to A n t n io in g s th u s d a te fro m th e late 1 8 th a n d 1 9th cen tu ries. O n R u a G en era l A lb erta d a Silveira, the tiny Igreja de Santo A ntnio, an exuberant gilt b a ro q u e w o rk an d on e o f the A lg arv es fin est churches, w a s reb u ilt so o n a fte r the e a r th q u a k e . T h e ch u rch , a n a tio n a l m o n u m e n t d e d ic a ted to St A n th on y , h a s a h a n d so m e d isp la y o f 18th century blue-and-white glazed tile s a n d a b rig h tly p a in te d w o o d e n ceilin g. Set in to the flo o r y o u ll fin d th e to m b o f a n Irish c o lo n e l, H u g h B e a t ty, a so ld ie r o f fo rtu n e w h o c o m m a n d e d the L a g o s R e g im e n t o f th e P o rtu g u e se

31

32

W estern Algarve A rm y in the late 1 8 th century, an d w h o m u st h av e been held in very h igh esteem to h ave been a w a r d e d su ch a p re stig io u s fin al restin g p lace. T h e e n tra n c e to th e c h u rch is th r o u g h the c u r io u s a n d eclectic m u se u m n e x t d o o r, the M useu R eg ion al de Lag os (T u e -S u n 9 . 3 0 a m - 1 2 .3 0 p m , 2 - 5 p m ; c h a r g e ; tel: 2 8 2 - 7 6 2 3 0 1 ). R o o m s d isp la y sa c re d a rt, a r c h a e o lo g ic a l re m a in s, the o rig in a l c h a rte r o f L a g o s , h o ly v estm en ts a n d a b iz arre c o l lection o f c re a tu r e s, like a scien ce e x p e rim e n t g o n e w ro n g : an eig h t-leg g ed g o a t kid p re se rv e d in fo rm a ld e h y d e , a oneeyed sh eep , a c a t w ith tw o faces. T h e m a in stre e t o f L a g o s is th e c h a r m in g , c o b b le d R u a 25 de A b r il, p a c k e d w ith r e s t a u r a n ts, b a r s a n d a n tiq u e s a n d c e r a m ic s sh o p s. T h e sid e stre e ts h o ld so m e g o o d a r t a n d c r a f t g a lle r ie s a n d p le n ty o f r e w a r d s f o r e x p l o ration . T h e sq u a re a t the end o f 2 5 de A b ril h o ld s a c u r io u s sta tu e , w h ich so m e lik e n to a n e x t r a te rre stria l, o f th e b o y -k in g S e b a s t i o . In 1 5 6 8 S e b a s t i o b e c a m e k in g o f P o rtu g a l a t th e a g e o f 14. A d e c a d e la te r he e m b a r k e d o n a d is a s t r o u s v o y a g e to M o r o c c o to fig h t th e M o o r s . A t le a s t 7 ,0 0 0 t r o o p s d ie d , th e k in g in c lu d e d (th o u g h m a n y r e fu s e d to b e lie v e he h a d p e r ish e d , a n d E lv is-lik e sig h tin g s w ere c o m m o n ).
S p e c ta c u la r r o c k fo r m a tio n s a t th e P o n ta d a P ied ad e

T h e C o a st A rou n d L agos

33

The Coast Around Lagos

T h e b e a c h e s n e a r L a g o s r a n g e fro m M eia P ra ia , 1 .6 k m (1 m ile) to th e e a s t , a lo n g ( 4 k m /2 J i m ile ) fla t s tr e tc h , to p o c k e t- s iz e d c o v e s ju s t w e st o f th e city. W eird a n d w o n d e rfu l r o c k fo r m a tio n s, a n d ste ep c liffs th a t g lo w o ra n g e at s u n se t, h a v e m a d e th e m so m e o f th e m o s t p h o to g r a p h e d in E u r o p e ; h e a d fo r P r a ia de D o n a A n a a n d P r a ia do C a m ilo , b o th sm a ll, p re tty a n d c r o w d e d (street sig n s sh o w th e w a y to ea c h ). A t the so u th ern tip , ju st b e fo re it tu rn s w e st to S a g r e s, are the c o a s ts m o st sp e c ta c u la r sigh ts. Ponta da Pied ad e (Point o f Piety) is the m o th er o f a ll sta c k an d cliff fo rm a tio n s alo n g

W estern Algarve the A lgarve, a stunn ing terra c o tta fa m ily o f b r id g e s, te r r a c e s a n d g ro tto e s. T h e re is n o b e ach here, b u t there are g re a t view s fro m ab o v e , an d in se a so n (sp rin g to au tu m n ) b o a t tr ip s d e p a r t fro m th e f o o t o f th e ste p s th a t h ave been cu t d eep in to th e sid e s o f the cliff.

Northwest of Lagos
F o r a c o m p le te c h a n g e o f ______________________________ scene, tak e a drive n orth w est
T radition al w ays o f life e n d u r e in th e land a ro u n d B en safrim

to w a r d s th e h ills a n d B e n safrim . H e re y o u c a n en jo y th e A lg a r v e o f y e ste ry e a r

a n d ro llin g u n d e v e lo p e d c o u n try sid e , w h ere p e o p le still live o ff the la n d . T h e tilled so il, a sta r tlin g o c h re co lo u r, m a k e s a b righ t b a c k d r o p fo r o ra n g e a n d lem o n g ro v e s. T u rn o ff to w a r d s th e B a rra g e m da B ra v u r a a n d y o u ll be re w a rd e d w ith a sig h t every b it a s in sp irin g a s its n am e. T h is b o d y o f w ater, m o re a k in to th e E n g lish L a k e D is tr ic t th a n su n n y so u th ern E u ro p e , is o f g r e a t p r a c tic a l u se, irrig a tin g c r o p s, in clu d in g rice, a r o u n d L a g o s .

Portimo
S e c o n d in siz e o n ly to F a r o in th e A lg a r v e , P o rt im o is th e m o s t w o r k m a n lik e to w n o n th e c o a s t . B u t n e s tle d a r o u n d it a r e so m e o f th e A lg a r v e s fin e st b e a c h e s , w h ich h a s tr a n sfo rm e d th e to w n in to o n e o f th e c o a s t s m o st p o p u la r r e so r ts. P ra ia d a R o c h a a n d P ra ia T r s Ir m o s in p a r t ic u la r a r e lin e d w ith h o te ls . M o s t h o li d a y m a k e r s s ta y a lo n g th is stre tc h .

Portimo P o rtim o sits a t the co n flu en ce o f the R iver A d a d e an d the se a , a n d m o st o f its lo c a l c o lo u r is d o w n by the p o rt, a haven o f fish in g activity. T h e to p fish -can n in g sp o t o n the A lg arv e, P o r tim o is re n o w n e d f o r its r e s ta u r a n ts s p e c ia lisin g in

35

sardinhas grelhadas (grilled sard in es). T h o u g h P o rtim o w as

settled by the R o m a n s, it w a s on e o f the A lg arv e to w n s m o st d a m a g e d fro m the e a rth q u ak e o f 1 7 5 5 , an d a s a consequ en ce h a s few b u ild in g s o r m o n u m en ts o f h isto rical interest. Largo I de D e z e m b ro is a 19th -cen tu ry a d d itio n , a p a r k w ith 10 sp le n d id b lu e-an d -w h ite azulejo ben ch es, each illu stratin g a p iv o ta l ev e n t in th e h isto r y o f P o r tu g a l. T h e p a r k s n a m e a llu d e s to th e d a te , 1 D e c e m b e r 1 6 4 0 , w h en P o r tu g a ls in d ep en d en ce fro m S p a in w a s r e sto re d (see page 18). M u c h o f th e to w n c e n tr e is p e d e s tr ia n - o n ly a n d fille d w ith s h o p s . T h e m a in s q u a r e , a t R u a d o C o m r c io a n d A v e n id a S o J o o d e D e u s , is w h e re y o u ll fin d th e la r g e
C a tc h in g th e ray s on o n e o f P o rtim o s g o ld en b e a c h e s

A p a rtm e n ts in p o p u la r P o rtim o

a n d a u s te r e C o l g io d o s Je s u ta s ( Je s u it C o lle g e ) . T h e c h u rc h , c o n str u c te d a t th e e n d o f th e 1 7 th ce n tu ry , is the la r g e st o n th e A lg a rv e . A ro u n d the corner, a lo n g R u a M a c h a d o d o s S a n to s, is the h a n d so m e Ig reja de N o ssa S e n h o ra d a C o n c e i o , sittin g a to p a sm a ll hill a n d incline o f ste p s. T h e yellow -an d -w h ite church, o riginally co n stru cted in the 15th century, h as a b e au tiful G oth ic p o rtico w ith carved cap itals, b u t lo o k s like a c o lo nial ch urch y ou m igh t find in B razil, d u e to its recon stru ction a n d rem o d ellin g d u rin g th e 1 8 th an d 19 th cen tu ries. F ro m the centre o f tow n , h ead to the w aterfro n t, especially if its an y w h e re n e a r tim e f o r lu n ch o r din n er. Y o u c a n a l m o st fo llo w y o u r n o se to w a r d s th e h e a d y a r o m a o f g rille d sa rd in es. It w ill ta k e y ou to the d ockside, w hich is lined w ith sim p le r e sta u r a n ts, o n e a fte r the other, all se rv in g d elic io u s, sm o k y sa r d in e s (a n d o th e r fre sh ly c a u g h t fish ). C h o o s e w h ich ever sp o t se em s to be b u stlin g w ith ra v e n o u s p a tr o n s.

Portimo A p la te o f grille d sa r d in e s, p r a w n s o r sq u id a n d a bo ttle o f h o u se w in e m a k e a fa n ta stic m e a l, an d the p rice s are a b o u t a s lo w a s an y w h ere a lo n g the c o a st. T h e h ectic o p e r a tio n s o f th e fish in g in d u stry u sed to tak e p la c e h ere rig h t u n d e r th e n o s e s o f h o lid a y m a k e r s , w ith a fren etic b u c k e t-b rig a d e h au lin g w ick e r b a sk e ts o f fresh fish u p fro m the b o a t h o ld s to ice tra y s an d w aitin g tru c k s, right n e x t to d o c k sid e d in in g ta b le s. T h e fish erm e n w ere m oved to a la r g e r lo c a tio n o n th e o th e r sid e o f the river, b u t m o st sig h tsee in g b o a ts th a t to u r the h a r b o u r an d n earb y g ro tto e s in clu d e a q u ick trip to the n ew d o c k s. Y o u w ill still see fish in g b o a ts a t a n c h o r o n th e m a in q u ay , b u t th e m a jo r ity o f riv er tr a ffic h ere n o w is m a d e u p o f p r iv a te y a c h ts, re p lica sa ilin g sh ip s o n to u r ist e x c u rsio n s a n d tiny d in g h ies. P o r tim a o s o th e r c la im to fa m e is its sta tu s a s a c o m p r e h en sive re g io n a l sh o p p in g cen tre. T h e re is ce rtain ly a g o o d v ariety o f sh o p s h ere, in c lu d in g m an y in te rn atio n al n am es,

Fishy Business
A t night out on the ocean, a couple o f kilometres o r so beyond the beach, you may see tiny specks o f light glinting below the stars.These are the lanterns o f a small fleet o f fishing boats in a wide formation, lur ing fish into an elaborate net. For centuries fishing has been big business in the Algarve, but the biggest boom began 100 years ago when the canning industry came to the region.To this day, thousands o f tonnes of fish, mostly sardines, with tuna coming in a close second, are caught, tinned and exported annually. Those who have tasted plump and juicy sardines fresh from the quay at Portimo or elsewhere in the Algarve - they're best in summer when mature - can only feel a little sorry for those who have to take their pleasures many weeks later; from a tin. If you're in Portimo during Au gust, check out the Sardine Festival.

W estern Algarve a n d a s h o p p in g m a ll, a s w ell a s o u tle ts se llin g tr a d itio n a l c ra fts o r lo c a lly m a d e item s. A m a rk e t is often se t u p in the sq u a re o p p o site the C o l g io d o s Je su ta s.

Praia da Rocha
J u s t 3 k m (2 m iles) d o w n riv e r fr o m P o r tim o is P r a ia da R o cha, w h ich b e ca m e a h o lid a y v illa g e fo r w e a lth y P o rtu g u e se f a m ilie s a t th e e n d o f th e 1 9 th ce n tu ry . It w a s d i s c o v e r e d b y th e B r itish in th e 1 9 3 0 s , w h e n th is b e a c h o f ro c k s, strew n w ith e x trav ag an tly sh a p e d ero d ed sta c k s, p r o v id ed a n in sp ir a tio n a l re fu g e fo r w r ite r s a n d in te lle c tu a ls. T h e b e lle-p o q u e H o te l B e la V ista is a su rv iv in g m o n u m e n t fro m th o se d a y s. T o d a y th e 2 k m (1 .3 -m ile ) lo n g g o ld e n b e ach is still the m ain attractio n , b u t the on ce-sm all village fron tin g the beach h a s been sw a m p e d by a se a o f h o te ls a n d to u r ist fa c ilitie s.
A peacefu l m o m e n t a t th e b u sy r e s o r t o f P raia d a R o c h a

P ra ia d a R o c h a

V estig es o f the v illa g e s fo rm e r g ra n d e u r c a n still be trace d a lo n g th e fr o n t, w h ere g r a n d o ld b u ild in g s jo s t le u n c o m f o r ta b ly w ith h ig h -rise b lo c k s. T h e sp r a w l h a s en tirely b lu rre d P ra ia d a R o c h a s se p a ra te id en tity fro m P o rtim o . A t th e f a r e a s te r n en d o f th e r e s o r t, g u a r d in g th e R iv e r A r a d e , is the F o r t a le z a de S a n ta C a t a r in a de R ib a m a r (St C a th e rin e s F o rtre ss), b u ilt in 1 6 2 1 to d efen d Silves an d P o r tim o a g a in s t th e M o o r s . L ittle r e m a in s o f th e a c tu a l fo rtre ss, b u t its c o u rty a rd is n o w an a g re e ab le terrace w here y ou c a n en jo y a d rin k a n d w atc h the sa rd in e fleet retu rn in g to p o rt. D irectly a c r o ss fro m the fo rt is the sp le n d id , beigec o lo u re d F o r ta le z a de F e rrag u d o , w h ich lo o k s like a g ian t sa n d c a stle ; n o te th a t th is is c lo se d to the p u b lic. T h e o ld fish in g villag e o f F e rrag u d o n earb y is w ell w o rth a v isit. D e sp ite its p r o x im ity to a m ain to u r ist en clav e, an d tw o ex cellen t b e a ch es o f its o w n , it h a s resiste d b latan t c o m m e r c ia lis a t io n , r e m a in in g a tr a d itio n a l fis h e rm e n s se ttle m en t. T h e o p p o s ite en d o f P ra ia d a R o c h a s lo n g stretch is k n o w n a s P ra ia do V au. T h e sp le n d id r o c k fo rm a tio n s an d c o v e s c o n tin u e , b u t th is en d o f th e b e ach is q u ie te r a n d less d e v e lo p e d th a n th e e a ste rn en d . J u s t w e st, P r a ia d e T r s Ir m o s is the slig h tly u p sc a le beach co u sin o f P raia d a R o c h a. T h e eastern end o f the beach is a b e a u tifu l co v e, h em m ed in by cliffs an d o ch re-c o lo u re d r o c k s . B e y o n d it, th e b e a c h str e tc h e s to A lv o r, a c la s sic A lg a rv ia n fish erm en s villag e. N a r r o w c o b b le d streets plu n ge d o w n h ill to a q u a y a n d m a r k e t w h ere b o a ts b o b a t an c h o r o n a w id e, m a rsh y la g o o n . A h a n d fu l o f b a r s ru stle u p b a r b e cu ed sa rd in e s. A t the to p o f the hill, o n R u a d a Ig re ja , is Ig re ja M a triz , a d elig h tfu l 1 6th -cen tu ry ch u rch , w ith a d eli ca te ly c a r v e d M a n u e lin e p o r tic o , p e r h a p s the fin e st o n the A lg a rv e , an d ex celle n t 1 8th -cen tu ry azulejos in th e ch an cel. A larg e w h ite-san d b each is the m ain fo c u s o f a recreatio n al a re a th at in c lu d e s a g o lf co u rse an d a ca sin o .

W estern Algarve B etw een A lv o r a n d the N 1 2 5 , the m ain c o a sta l r o a d , are the ruins of A b ica d a , a R o m a n v illage th at d ate s b ac k to the 4 th cen tu ry A D .

Serra de Monchique
N o rth o f P o rtim o , a n d ex ten d in g a c r o ss the w estern h a lf o f the p ro v in ce , is the S e rra de M o n c h iq u e , a m o u n ta in ran ge th at p ro tects the c o a st fro m the h o t p lain s fu rth er n orth . T h e

serra is a v e rd a n t la n d sc a p e o f c o rk , p in e a n d ch e stn u t trees

a n d lo w -ly in g a r e a s a re c o v e re d in w ild flo w e rs. Its h igh e st p o in t is F ia . T w o sp o ts in the serra p o p u la r w ith v isito rs are the villages o f M o n c h iq u e a n d C a ld a s d e M o n c h iq u e . T h e first sto p on the scenic jo u rn ey a lo n g ro u te N 2 6 6 is the sp a village o f C a l das de M onchique, k n o w n since R o m a n tim es fo r its th era peu tic w a te rs. Its h ey d ay w a s the E d w a rd ia n e ra, a n d m an y o f the elegan t b u ild in g s (in clu d in g a casin o an d a h an d icrafts m arket) still d a te fro m th is p erio d . A g o o d p la c e fo r a picn ic

The Manueline Style

During the reign o f Manuel I ( 1495-1521), artists were inspired as never before by the discovery o f far-off lands and the romance o f daring sea voyages.The style they evolved, called Manueline after their king, cele brated this brave new age o f maritime travel. Motifs such as anchors, knotted ropes, sails,terrestrial globes, marine plants and animals became the signatures o f this period's sculptors and architects. In the 16th cen tury, the style fell out o f favour and by 1540 Portugal had joined with the rest o f Europe in building in the more sober Renaissance style. The m ost fam ous exam ple o f Manueline a rt is Lisbon's Belm Tower; but you can also see exuberant stonework all over the Algarve. Look out for the church portals and windows at Silves (the Igreja da Misericrdia), Alvon and particularly at Monchique,

an d a stroll in the w o o d s, an a ir o f n o s ta lg ia h a s lo n g p resid ed over this sleepy h o l lo w ; b u t a ren o v a tio n p r o g ra m m e h a s r e v ita lise d an d w id en e d its to u r ist a p p e a l. T h e M o n c h iq u e S p a (w w w . m onch iqueterm as.com ), co m plete w ith h otels, restau ran ts an d craft sh op s, offers various treatm en ts, all m a k in g use o f the m in eral-rich w a te r s fo r w h ich the r e so r t is fam e d . T h e w ater is bo ttled here and so ld a cro ss the A lgarve. T o the north o f C a ld a s, the r o a d sta r ts to w e a v e u ph ill q u ick ly , risin g so m e 3 0 0 m ( 1 ,0 0 0 ft ) in 5 k m (3 m iles) p a s t terra ced fa rm la n d s an d fo r e s ts o f e u c a ly p tu s, o a k a n d c o rk . M o n ch iq u e is a
T h e fa m o u s M an ueline p o r tic o o f M o n c h iq u e s Igreja M atriz

sm all m ark et tow n , kn ow n fo r its h an d icrafts an d the fam o u s M a n u e lin e p o r tic o o f its 1 6 th -c e n tu ry Ig re ja M a triz. T h e b e a u tifu l, u n u su a l c h u rch h a s R o m a n e sq u e a r c h e s, sto n e c o lu m n s , b lu e -a n d -y e llo w azulejos (tiles) an d a h a n d so m e w o o d ceiling. If y ou w a n d e r a ro u n d the to w n , y o u ll p r o b a bly see a r tisa n s cra ftin g sh o e s a n d carv in g o u t w a lk in g stick s in sm all w o rk sh o p s. H ig h a b o v e th e to w n , the ru in s o f a 1 7 th -c e n tu ry F r a n c isc a n m o n a ste ry , N o ssa S e n h o ra do D e s te rr o , lo o m like a g h o stly g re y em in e n ce. A lth o u g h th e m o n a ste r y itse lf is c lo s e d to th e p u b lic , a v isit h ere w ill be r e w a r d e d by a b r e a th ta k in g view .

W estern Algarve T h e r o a d c o n tin u e s u p w a r d s, p a ssin g r o a d sid e so u venir stalls an d fru it v en d o rs a n d a few w e ll-p la c e d r e st a u r a n ts . A t th e en d o f the lin e is F ia , a lm o st 9 1 5 m (3 ,0 0 0 ft ) a b o v e se a level, a ffo r d in g o n e o f th e b e st v iew s in so u th e rn P o rtu g a l. T h e re is n o se ttlem en t h ere, ju st a co llectio n o f c r a ft an d
An old A lgarvian

so u v e n ir

sta lls ,

b ar,

re sta u ra n t, T V m a sts an d an o b elisk m a rk in g the h igh est p o in t o n the A lg arv e. O n a clear day you can see fro m the bay o f P o rtim o to the Sag res p en in su la a n d p ick o u t the ro ck y o u tc ro p s o f the L a g o s b each es. A lth o u g h y o u m a y w e lc o m e th e b reeze a fte r th e h e a t o f the c o a s t, th e w in d b lo w s p r e tty b r isk ly a t F ia , s o y o u ll need a ja c k e t o r sw eater. D o n t w o rry if y o u ve fo rg o tte n to bring one; the best b u y s a m o n g the sou ven irs here are chunky h an d -k n itted c a r d ig a n s a n d p u llo v ers.

Si Ives
B a c k d o w n the m a in r o a d to w a r d s P o rtim o , a tu r n -o ff to Silv e s le a d s to th e fo rm e r M o o r is h c a p ita l o f th e A lg a rv e . M o re th a n eigh t cen tu ries a g o , Silves (then k n o w n a s C helb) w a s a m ag n ific en t city w ith p a la c e s, g a rd e n s, b a z a a r s a n d a h u ge red c a stle o n a hill. G r a n a d a in S p a in h a s th e A lh a m b ra , the leg en d ary p a la c e o f the M o o r s , b u t the A lg a rv e a lso p o sse sse s a city stra ig h t o u t o f Arabian Nights. T h e g o ld en ag e o f Silves b e g an in A D 7 1 1 w ith the M u slim invasio n . W ith red o u b ta b le fo rtificatio n s an d a p o p u la tio n in the ten s o f th o u sa n d s, it w a s o n e o f the stro n g e st o u tp o sts in 12th -cen tu ry A r a b Ib eria. T h e C ru sa d e r s a tta c k e d an d to o k

S ilv e s

43

is

the city in 1 1 8 9 , on ly to see it reco v e re d by the M o o r s tw o y ea rs later. A h alf-d e cad e later, the C h ristian s cap tu re d Silves fo r g o o d . H ow ever, the lo ss o f A ra b ic w ealth an d the silting u p o f the R iver A ra d e left Silves a lm o st literally h igh an d dry, an d by the tim e the b ish o p ric o f the A lg arv e w a s tran sferred to F a r o in 1 5 7 7 , the to w n s p o p u la tio n h ad dw in d led to 140. Its rich es w ere sto le n lo n g a g o , th e o n c e -g re a t riv er is a silte d sh a d o w o f its fo rm e r se lf, an d S ilv e s is n o w ju s t a d u sty b a c k w a te r , b u t th e g lo r io u s se ttin g r e m a in s. S u r m o u n te d by its red fo rtr e ss , the w h ite to w n c lim b s the h ill sid e fro m th e river, its m ed iev al b rid g e still in tac t. T h e old city in sid e th e g a te s still e v o k e s th e la y o u t o f th e Je w is h q u a rte r a n d ahnedina o f th e M o o r s . T h o u g h a c a stle o f so r ts h a s e x iste d here since P h o en ician tim e s, th e p r e se n t C a s t e lo dos M o u ro s (d a ily 9 a m - 5 p m , until 7 p m in su m m er; ch arg e ; tel: 2 8 2 - 4 4 5 6 2 4 ), o n the site
A view o v e r Silves w ith th e O ld C a th e d r a l in th e d ista n c e

W estern Algarve o f R o m a n o r V isig o th ic f o u n d a t io n s , to o k sh a p e a fte r the C h ristian R e c o n q u e st, th o u g h it p re se rv e s d istin c tly M o o r ish lines. O lea n d e r and ja c a r a n d a so fte n its b ellico se n atu re, an d th ere a re fin e v iew s over th e tiled r o o fs o f the to w n an d su r ro u n d in g c o u n try sid e . A lo n g -d e stro y e d P a la c e o f V e r a n d a s once ex isted w ith in the castle; to d a y y o u c an see only a d eep w ell (6 0 m /2 0 0 ft). N e x t to the c a stle is the im p ressiv e G o th ic S V e lh a (O ld C a th e d ra l) o f Silves, b u ilt by the lib e ra tin g C r u sa d e r s, so m e o f w h o m are b u ried w ith in , in the 13th century. T h e rem ain s o f a M o o rish m o sq u e are h id d en b eh in d th e altar. O p p o site the S is th e 1 6 th -c e n tu ry Ig re ja d a M ise ric rd ia , w ith a c la ssic M a n u e lin e-sty le sid e door. W ander d o w n to the m ain sq u are, the P raa d o M u n ic ip io . T h e im p o sin g T o rre o da P o rta d a C id a d e (T u rret o f the C ity G ate) g ives y o u a g o o d id ea o f h o w se rio u sly d efen ce o f the city w a s tak e n . T h is stu rdy, w ar-like stru ctu re n o w h o u s es the peacefu l m u n icip a l lib rary (open to the p u b lic). C lo se by, o n R u a d a s P o rta s de L o u l , is a m o d ern M useu M unic ipal de A rq u e o lo g ia (a rc h a e o lo g y m u se u m ). H e re y o u can see p a rt o f a large A r a b w a ter cistern an d o th er lo c a l fin ds. D o w n by the river, the F b ric a do Ingls (E nglish F acto ry ; w w w .fab rica-d o-in gles.p t) is a leisure co m p lex w hich w a s co n verted fro m a co rk facto ry in 1 9 9 9 . A m o n g its a ttractio n s are a co rk m u seu m , a variety o f restau ran ts, b ars an d cafs, street en tertainm ent a n d evening m u ltim ed ia sh o w s. T h e hills a ro u n d Silves fo rm a p ro sp e ro u s farm in g region; figs, o ra n g es, lem o n s, g ra p e fru it, clem entines an d p o m e g ra n ates are all g ro w n in a b u n d an ce in v a st stretch es o f o rch ard s. J u s t o u tsid e th e city, o n th e r o a d to S o B a r to lo m e u de M e ssin e s (ro u te N 1 2 4 ) , is a n im p o r ta n t 1 6 th -c en tu ry re li g io u s sc u lp tu re. K n o w n a s the C r u z de Portug al (C r o ss o f P o rtu g al), it d ep icts the cru cifix io n o f C h rist o n on e face an d the d escen t fro m the c r o ss on the other.

E a st o f P o rtim o

45

If you are travelling by car, continue to the Barrag em (dam ) do A rad e . T h e w ater collected in this reservoir su rrou n d ed by pine hills p ro v id es irrigation for the a re a s p ro fitab le orch ards. Its p erfect fo r a picn ic a s w ell a s sailin g an d w in d su rfin g.

East of Portimo
Lagoa, a sizeable tow n east o f P ortim o, is the provin ces wine cap ita l. T h e acid ic vinhos da casa served in m o st restau ran ts o n the A lg a rv e co m e fro m h ere. L a g o a w in e, b o th red an d w hite, is m ore pow erfu l than ord in ary w ine, an d the ex tra d e gree o r tw o o f alcoholic content can creep up on you. T h e local cooperative (A dega de C ooperativa de L a g o a ; tel: 2 8 2 -3 4 2 181) offers to u rs o f the w ineries an d tastin gs, w ith 4 8 h o u rs notice. F ro m L a g o a , tu rn sou th a b o u t 5 k m (3 m iles) to the ch arm ing r e so rt o f C a rv o e iro , an arch e ty p al sm a ll B a rla v e n to re so r t. T h e b e a c h is th e siz e o f a ta b le c lo th c o m p a r e d w ith
Fishing b o a ts a t C a r v o e ir o

46

W estern Algarve so m e o f the e x p a n se s to the e a st. A sin g le r o a d ru n s d ow n th ro u gh a p retty v alley u ntil it co m e s to a sm a ll crescen t o f sa n d sh a re d by su n b a th e rs an d fish in g b o a ts . A b o v e , ro w s o f b rig h t w h ite h o u se s p erch o n red sa n d sto n e cliffs, w h ile ca f s an d r e sta u ra n ts fill the sp a c e s in betw een . C a rv o e iro is n o w fairly co m m e rcialised , b u t to m an y it rem ain s on e o f the c o a s ts m o st a ttra ctiv e reso rts. A n a r r o w r o a d f o llo w s th e c liffs e a s t w a r d s to th e g e o lo g ic a l c u rio sity o f A lg a r S e c o (d ry g u lly ). A m o n g o th er w eird a n d w o n d e r fu l sh a p e s , w in d a n d w a v e e r o sio n h ave c r e a te d a d o u b le - d e c k e r s to n e a r c h . T h e re a r e w a lk w a y s d ow n to a la g o o n en clo sed by m en acin g r o c k s, an d if w e ath er c o n d itio n s are c a lm , th is
A lg ar S e c o

o p e n -a ir g ro tto is a p a r a d is e fo r sn o rk e lle rs. C o n tin u e e a s t a n d y o u w ill fin d th ree m o re b e ach es w h o se relativ e iso la tio n h as th u s f a r p r o te c te d th em fro m d ev e lo p m en t. T h e y are (h ead in g east) V a le de C e n tia n e s, P r a ia do C a rv a lh o a n d P r a ia de B en a g il. T h e la s t o n e in p a r tic u la r is s u p e r b , a n d is a p p r o a c h e d d o w n a v e r tig in o u s r o a d fla n k e d by m a ssiv e cliffs. B a c k in la n d , ju s t o f f the m a in r o a d , is th e a ttr a c tiv e little village o f Porches, w ith so m e c la s s ic , w h ite A lg a rv ia n h o u se s a n d filig re e d ch im n eys. P orch es is fa m o u s th r o u g h o u t P o rtu g a l fo r its

E a s t o f P o r t im o

h and -painted pottery, th ough y o u w o n t fin d m u ch in the v illa g e itse lf. T h e sh o p s o f g re a te st ren o w n a re a lo n g th e N 1 2 5 ro u te . O la r ia A l g a rv e (tel: 2 8 2 - 3 5 2 8 5 8 ; w w w .p o r c h e sp o tte r y .c o m ), better know n as P orches P ot tery, is the biggest an d best of th ese, w ith h igh ly o rig in a l d e sig n s an d u n iq u e c o lo u r s. In sid e you can u su a lly see a tr io o f w o m e n p a in tin g p ie c e s. T h e r e s a ls o an a t
D etail o f an azule jo pan el fro m tractive little caf-restau ran t, th e C a s a A lgarv e itse lf d e c o r a te d (o f c o u rse ) w ith w o n d e rfu l c e ra m ic s. A little fu rth e r e a s t is C a s a A lg a r v e , w h ich se lls p o tte ry an d

h a n d ic ra fts in an a ttra ctiv e o ld h o u se. M o r e th an o th ers, it sp e cia lises in larg e -sca le azulejo p an e ls. T h e c o a sta l d ev e lo p m en t n earb y a lo n g the cliff to p s c o n tin u es a p a c e . H o w ever, th e v a st m a jo r ity o f a p a r tm e n ts an d villa s here a re low -rise, a n d p e rh a p s b e cau se the r o a d sy stem is n o t fu lly d ev e lo p ed h ere, th is p a r t o f the c o a st h a s largely e sc a p e d the atte n tio n s o f m a ss to u rism . O n e o f the m o st p h o to g rap h e d beach es alo n g this stretch is N o ssa S e n h o ra da R o ch a (O u r L a d y o f the R o c k ). T h e rock in q u e stio n is a p ro m o n to ry , b o ld ly ju ttin g o u t in to the se a, su rm o un ted by a little w hite fisherm ens church. O n either side o f the ro ck are tw o lovely h alf-m o o n co v es, fram ed by cliffs. T h e b e a ch o f A r m a o de P ra is on e o f th e lo n g e st in the A lg a rv e - a fla t, g o ld e n stretch to th e e a s t, p ictu re sq u e ro c k sta c k s a n d sm a ll co v e s to the w est. T h e m a ssiv e d evel o p m en t a t the ea st end o f tow n , th ou g h , h a s p retty m u ch run

48

Central Algarve r o u g h sh o d over the n a tu ral b e au ty o f the a re a , all b u t ec lip s in g the fo rm e r fish in g villag e. O n the fro n t, h ow ever, there is a p le a s a n t e s p la n a d e a n d a sm a ll fo r tr e ss , b u ilt in 1 7 6 0 a n d h o m e to a p retty ch ap e l.

ALBUFEIRA AN D CENTRAL ALGARVE

Albufeira
A t on e tim e a p ic tu re sq u e fish e rm e n s to w n , A lb u fe ira h as g ro w n w ild ly in recen t y e a rs to b e co m e the le a d in g r e so rt in the A lg arv e. T h e a r e a n o w g en erally refe rred to a s A lb u feira e n c o m p a sse s th e c o a st fro m b e y o n d G a l in th e w e st all F alsia B each , situ a te d t o th e the w a y to P ra ia d a F a l sia , e a s t o f A lb u feira (see page 5 2 ) ju st b e fo re a m arg in a lly d is tin c t r e so r t a r e a b e g in s a t V ilam o u ra. P arts o f the c o m m e rcial sp r a w l, w h ile rarely g r o t e s q u e , still o v e rw h e lm the little to w n at their centre. O n ce y o u re o ff the trafficsq u e e z e d m ain a r te rie s, y o u w ill fin d th at A lb u fe ira s old to w n p re se rv e s a su r p risin g am o u n t o f trad itio n al charm . T h e c lu ste r o f w h ite w a sh e d b u ild in g s in clu d es a n u m b er o f M o o r ish arch es an d three sm all ch u rch es. Its m a g n ific e n t se ttin g en orm ou s, p o ck m ark ed sa n d sto n e cliffs rise ab o v e a huge b e a c h lin e d w ith c o lo u r fu l fish in g b o a ts a n d h u n d re d s

Albufeira o f su n b a th e r s - h a s p ro v e d resistan t to developm ent ruin. T h e g e n tly s lo p in g s a n d s a r e p e r fe c t f o r fa m ily h o li d a y s, a n d if you a re lo o k in g fo r a little m o re p riv a cy y o u c a n e s c a p e th e c r o w d s by heading further east alon g the sa n d y c o a s t . A tu n n e l lin k s the cen tre o f th e to w n w ith the m a in beach . W h en tr a c to rs h a u l the fish in g fleet a sh o r e , su n bath ers ju m p fro m their to w els to g a p e a t the catch - 1m (3ft) eels, still flap p in g ; large, sp in y lo b ste rs still sn a p p in g ;

C a stle on the sea

Albufeiras nam e evokes the tow n s M oorish roots. Indeed, the N o rth African o ccu p iers called it AlBuhera (castle on the sea ). Its cliff-top position and labyrinthine s tre e t plan p ro vided an easily defensible sp o t fo r the M oors, and Albufeira proved on e o f the last tow n s to fall during the R econquest. Its layout, how ever, did n o t save it from the 1755 earthquake, dur ing which the tow n w as al m o st com pletely destroyed.

an d b u c k etlo a d s o f flat an d silver fish. T h e fa m o u s beach side fish m a rk e t b u c k led u n d er lo g istic s p ro b le m s y e a rs a g o an d m oved ju st north o f the centre. It is still w orth a visit, however, an d y o u w ill a lso find fruit, vegetab les an d flow ers on sale. M o d e rn A lb u fe ir a h a s fa lle n p rey to m a ss to u r ism - in te rn a tio n a l b a r s, c a f s a n d n ig h tsp o ts p u m p o u t lo u d m u sic d a y an d nigh t. T h e re is little tr a d itio n a lly P o rtu g u e se a b o u t its r a u c o u s c e n tr a l sq u a r e , b u t th ere a r e q u ie t s p o t s to be fo u n d . A n d w h a t b rin g s all the to u r ists h ere, the A tlan tic, is ju st a sp la sh aw ay. F ro m a lm o st a n y v a n ta g e p o in t, the view o f o ld A lb u fe ira slo p in g u p a gen tle hill a n d its se a sc a p e is in cred ib ly sp e ctac u lar. W ith s o m u ch a c tiv ity to th e e a s t, th e e x c e lle n t b e a c h e s w e st o f to w n a r e r e la tiv e ly u n c r o w d e d . T h e b e st are S o Rafael, a b e a u tifu l, sa n d y strip w ith so m e sp le n d id ly sh ap ed ro ck y o u tc ro p s, a n d C o e lh a , C a ste lo an d G a l , three sm all, b e a u tifu l co v es.

50

Central Algarve

Hill Villages ofAlte and Salir

O n e o f th e m o s t p ic t u r e s q u e s e ttle m e n ts in th e p r o v in c e is th e lo v e ly v illa g e o f A lt e , a b o u t 3 0 k m (1 8 m iles) n o rth o f A lb u fe ir a . It is e n te r e d in r o m a n t ic f a s h io n , a c r o s s a s m a ll, w h ite b r id g e o v e r a b a b b lin g str e a m th a t r u n s th r o u g h to w n a n d w a te r s a v a lle y th ic k w ith o r a n g e s , p o m e g r a n a te s a n d fig s. T h e a r c h ite c tu r a l h ig h lig h t o f th e v illa g e is th e 1 6th cen tu ry Ig re ja M a tr iz , en tered th ro u g h a c la ssic M a n u e lin e p o rta l. T h e ch u rch k ee p er w ill e n th u siastically p o in t o u t the m an y e la b o ra te c h a p e ls a n d th e r a re 1 6 th -c en tu ry azulejos fro m Seville. T h e re st o f A lte is th e A lg a rv e o f p o s t c a r d s w h ite-w a sh e d h o u se s a lo n g n a r r o w stre e ts, c o lo u r fu l w in d o w s, filigreed ch im n ey p o ts a n d red -tiled r o o fs . A n d w hile their ch a ra cter m a y a t first seem u n ifo rm , y o u w o n t see tw o h o u se s the sam e.
O ld boy s relax in g in th e sh a d e in th e p ic tu r e sq u e village o f A lte

East from Albufeira F o llo w the stre a m u p river a n d y o u c o m e to the p o p u la r F o n te P e q u e n a (L ittle F o u n ta in ) s p r in g s, w h ere a r e s ta u r a n t a n d o c c a s io n a l fo lk d a n c in g d r a w v is ito r s . T h e se ttin g is d elig h tfu l an d a p erfe ct sp o t fo r a picn ic. If y o u con tin u e ea st o n the N 1 2 4 , y o u ll p a s s r o llin g hills a n d co m e to th e p retty v illa g e o f S a lir , w h ich is b u ilt o n the ed ge o f a steeply risin g rid g e a n d h a s tw o fine lo o k o u t p o in ts. T h e first is in
O pen any bottle o f wine with a natural c o rk in it and th e chances are the co rk co m es from Portugal. O v e r half the w orld s supply is produ ced here and you w on t have to drive far in the A lgarve to sp o t the c o rk oak.T h e tre e is reco g nised by its broad, rounded head and glossy-green, holly-like leaves, o r by the raw red trunk w here the bark has been stripped off.

th e v illa g e itse lf, a lo n g sid e the 1 6 th -c e n tu ry p a r ish ch u rch a n d w a te r to w e r ( d o n t m iss th e d e lig h tfu l g a r d e n s n e x t d o o r ). T h e oth er, w ith the b e st v ie w s, is the a d ja c e n t p e a k , w h ich o n ce h eld a M o o r ish str o n g h o ld (fo llo w sig n s to the

castelo). A ll th a t re m a in s o f the c a stle are the b a se s o f fo u r

h uge tu rrets (1 2 th - 1 3 th centu ry) an d so m e e x c a v a tio n s. T he o ld c a stle g ro u n d s a re h o m e to a tin y h am let, co m p le te w ith its o w n ch urch . T h e p a n o ra m ic view s a c ro ss to the m ain p art o f Salir an d the su rro u n d in g co u n try sid e are sp ectacu lar, an d th ere is even a tiny miradouro (belved ere) ca f here.

East from Albufeira

L o o s e ly g r o u p e d w ith A lb u fe ir a a r e b e a c h e s to th e e a s t. H e r e , th e c o a s tlin e fe a tu r e s th e la s t o f th e d r a m a t ic r o c k f o r m a tio n s th a t h a v e m a d e th e A lg a r v e so fa m o u s . A t a p p e a lin g O lh o s d A g u a , a sin g le r o a d le a d s b e tw een pin eco v ere d c liffs d o w n to a so ft, sa n d y b e ach sh ared by a g aily p a in te d fish in g fleet, e ro d e d sa n d sto n e fo rm a tio n s a n d su n b a t h e r s . T h e r e s o r t d e r iv e s its n a m e f r o m th e e y e s o f

52

Central Algarve w a te r th a t flo w fro m str a n g e ly fo rm e d r o c k s , v isib le o n ly

jp r

a t lo w tid e. F a l sia is a b e a u tifu l b e ach fra m e d by h igh c liffs, b u t to reach it y o u n ee d to n e g o tia te th e g r o u n d s o f th e S h e ra to n A lgarve h otel, w h o se lift d o w n to the beach is fo r gu e sts only. T h e re a r e o th e r e x c e lle n t b e ach e s a t S a n ta E u la lia (lo n g er an d m ore op en th an O lh o s de A g u a ), B alaia, P ra ia da O u r a an d S o Joo. T h e la tte r tw o are r e g a r d e d a s sa te llite s o f A lb u feira a n d m a y w ell be w h ere y o u are stay in g o n a p a c k a g e h o lid a y to A lb u fe ir a . T h e ce n tre o f a c tiv ity a lo n g th is b each h in te rlan d is th e in fa m o u s str ip - a lo n g stree t le a d ing u p to the h ill-top a r e a k n o w n a s M o n te c h o ro . Its lined w ith a m o tley co llectio n o f b a r s, re sta u r a n ts an d n ig h tsp o ts. N e a r b y V ila m o u r a is a w h o lly p la n n e d a n d s a n it is e d co m m u n ity - E u r o p e s la r g e st fro m -sc ra tc h p r iv a te to u r ist u n d e r ta k in g . F r o m h ig h - r ise h o te ls a n d s p r a w lin g v illa s
A line o f y a c h ts in V ilam o u ra's m arin a

East from Albufeira th a t lin e m a n ic u r e d g o lf

c o u r s e s t o th e 1 9 th - h o le c lu b b a r a n d th e A lg a r v e s b ig g e s t m a r in a , it is u n d e n ia b ly w e ll d o n e , b u t it c o u ld be an y w h ere. Still, its a m a jo r d ra w fo r th o se w h o h a v e th e ir c lu b s r e a d y fo r a g o lfin g h o lid a y ; s e v e r a l o f th e A l g a r v e s b e s t c o u r s e s h a v e b e e n s c u lp te d o u t o f th e a r e a . A s n ew as e v e ry th in g

lo o k s a n d fe e ls, th e m a r in a
L u x u ry villa in Q u in ta d o Lago d e sig n e r s w ere n o t th e fir st to ta k e a d v a n ta g e o f V ilam o u r a s h arb o u r. T h e R o m a n s b u ilt a d o c k in the sa m e p lace a n d estab lish e d an im p o rtan t fish in g centre here. T h e R o m a n

r e m a in s o f C e r r o da V ila w ere u n e a r th e d a c r o s s th e r o a d fro m th e m a r in a . A s id e fr o m so m e lo w -lev el e x c a v a tio n s sh ow in g the ela b o rate w ater-pipin g sy stem an d surviving m o sa ic s a n d c e ra m ic s, th ere is a ls o a sm a ll m u seu m d isp lay in g ev e ry th in g fro m f is h h o o k s to la m p s , a p p e a lin g to a n y s tu d en t o f a rch a eo lo g y . A little fu r th e r w e st, Q u a r t e ir a , o n c e a q u ie t fish in g v illa g e , is to d a y a lm o s t u n r e c o g n isa b le , su b s u m e d u n d e r r o w s a n d r o w s o f a p a r tm e n t b u ild in g s. T h e b u sy r e so rt h as a lo n g , g o ld e n b e a c h , a n d th ere are g o o d , ch e a p re sta u r a n ts in the o ld q u arter w h ere lo c als an d a d v e n tu ro u s v isito rs m in g le. T h e m u n ic ip a l m a r k e t still s ta n d s o n th e b e a c h ; every W ed n esd ay o n e o f the la rg e st an d b u sie st m a rk e ts on the A l g a rv e - o ffe rin g fish a n d p ro d u c e - is h eld n e x t to it. T o th e e a s t o f V ila m o u r a a n d Q u a r t e ir a , th e A lg a r v ia n te r r a in b e g in s to c h a n g e . T h e r u g g e d , r o c k y lin e s o f the

54

Central Algarve B a r la v e n to c o a s t w e st o f F a r o g iv e w a y to th e lo n g , fla t b e ach es o f th e ea st. T h e sm a ll c r o s s r o a d s to w n o f A lm a n c il h a s s h o p s , c a f s an d bu sin esses, m an y o f w hich are d ed icated to servin g B rit ish ex p a tria tes. B u t the tow n , o f m o d est interest itself, is best k n ow n fo r w h at lies in its vicinity. M a n y o f these e x p a ts live a few k ilom etres so u th o n the c o a st, an d it is here th at tw o o f the A lg a rv es m o st lu x u rio u s an d ex clu sive reso rts are fou n d. E ach is reach ed d o w n lo n g r o a d s th at becom e progressively m ore private-look ing a s the beach nears. V ale do Lob o m eans V alley o f the W o lf , b u t it c o u ld ju st a s w ell m ean V alley o f the D o lls; it is a secu rity -co n scio u s, m aze-lik e villa c o m m u nity co n ceale d beh in d a g ia n t en tran ce g a te . G u a r d s d o their b e st to k e e p th e b e a c h th e d o m a in o f th e e x p a tr ia t e a n d w ea lth y to u r ist c la sse s. Q u in ta do Lag o , a fe w k ilo m e tre s d o w n the c o a s t, refe rs to th e h o tel o f th e sa m e n a m e , once ow ned by Prince F aisal o f Sau d i A rab ia, an d the lu xu ry hom es th at h ave sp ro u te d u p a ro u n d it. Q u in ta d o L a g o h as tw o o f the fin est g o lf co u rse s o n the A lg arv e an d h a s reg u larly h o st ed the P o rtu g u ese O p en . T h e b each is reach ed a c r o ss a lo n g , n o stalgic w o o d e n brid ge th at c ro sse s w etlan d s an d bird sa n c tu a rie s o f the R ia F o rm o s a
Ria F o rm o s a N a tu r e R e se r v e

N a tu re R e s e rv e . O n the b e a c h is a te rrific , if e x p e n siv e , r e sta u r a n t fo r fresh c a u g h t fish , w h ich y o u p ick o u t a n d h av e grilled.

So Loureno dos Matos

B a c k to w a r d s A lm a n c il is o n e o f th e A lg a r v e s to p a t t r a c tio n s , b u t if y o u re n o t lo o k in g clo se ly , its e a sy

to m iss. A b o u t 1 6 k m (1 0 m iles) w est o f F a r o , a sim ple w h ite ch u rch sta n d s o u t on a sm a ll h ill o v e r lo o k in g the th u n d e rin g h igh w ay . A sign sim p ly sa y s S. L o u r e n o in d ic a tin g th e tu r n - o ff to S o L o u r e n o dos M atos (C h u rc h o f S t L a w r e n c e o f th e W o o d s; T u e - S a t 1 0 a m l p m , 2 .3 0 - 6 p m , u n til 5 p m in w in ter, M o n 2 .3 0 - 5 p m o n ly ; c h a r g e ; tel: 2 8 9 - 3 9 5 4 5 1 ) . In sid e is o n e o f the m o st e x tra o r d in a r y d isp la y s o f azulejo d esig n y o u ll ever see. E very sq u a re cen tim etre o f the b a ro q u e , 15th -century c h u rch - its w a lls, v a u lte d c e ilin g a n d c u p o la - is c o v e red w ith h a n d - p a in te d ,
S o L o u r e n o d o s M ato s

b lu e-an d -w h ite ce ra m ic tiles. M o s t d a te fro m the e arly 18th c e n tu ry a n d d e p ic t b ib lic a l sc e n e s d e ta ilin g th e life o f St L aw ren ce, b o rn a c ro ss the b o rd er in H u e sc a , Spain . T h e only elem ent o f the ch urch n o t blue-and-w hite is the carv ed , gilded a lta r. T h e e n se m b le is a stu n n in g sig h t, n o t to be m isse d . W o rth v isitin g to o is the n e a r b y S o L o u r e n o C u ltu r a l C e n t r e , w h ich h o sts m o d e rn a rt e x h ib itio n s a n d c o n ce rts, a n d h a s a d elig h tfu l sc u lp tu re g a rd e n .

Loul
N o r th o f A lm a n cil, Lo u l is a re g io n a l p ro d u c e cen tre w ith a la rg e S a tu rd a y m ark e t, k n o w n fo r its leather, lace an d c o p p e r g o o d s . L o u l is a p r o s p e r o u s to w n w ith an a m b itio u s,

I9SRH

B fit

Central Algarve m od ern b o u le v a rd co m p lete w ith o u td o o r ca f s th at are jam p a c k e d o n m a r k e t d ay . C o a c h p a r tie s c o m e fr o m f a r a n d w id e to sh o p a t the c o lo u r fu l, b u stlin g m ark e t. T h ere are actu a lly tw o m ark e ts. Fresh p ro d u c e , in clu d in g fish , is so ld in a m o c k -M o o r ish h all, w h ile a G y p sy m a r k e t is held to w a rd s the o p p o site end o f the b o u le v ard . J u s t below the p erm an en t m a rk e t h alls, o n th e m ain P ra a d a R e p b li c a , y o u ll fin d a w ell-p reserved se ctio n o f the m ed iev al castle w a lls (w hich w ere m u ch d a m a g e d by the 1 7 5 5 e arth q u ak e ). T h e ra m p a rts a ffo r d ex cellen t view s fro m the to w n , a n d set into the castle rem ain s is a m o d e st lo c al m u seu m . A lso w orth visitin g are the Igreja M atriz (S o C lem en te), a 13th-centu ry G o th ic ch u rch w ith 1 8 th -c en tu ry azulejos (tile s); th e C o n vento da G ra a , w ith a terrific M a n u e lin e p o r ta l; a n d E r m id a de N o ssa S e n h o r a da C o n c e i o , a sm a ll ch u rch prized fo r its b a r o q u e a lta r an d ce ram ic tiles. In th e s tr e e ts d ire c tly b e lo w th e c a s tle w a lls , y o u m a y w ell h e a r th e s o u n d s o f c r a ftsm e n b e a tin g c o p p e r - fro m w h o m y o u c a n b u y d irect. Y o u c an a lso see a r tisa n s a t w o rk o n th e p o tt e r y w h e e l, p r o d u c in g le a th e r g o o d s (su c h a s

Filigreed Flu es
T o urism has o ften b e e n called an in d u stry w ith o u t chim neys, bu t n o t so in th e A lg a rv e , w h e re sm o ke sta cks - graceful, lattice creations, re m inis c e n t o f M o o ris h lanterns - have b e c o m e a tra d e m a rk o f th e region. F o r hu n d re d s o f years, A lg a rv e h o m e o w n e rs have taken g re a t p rid e in th e b eauty and originality o f t h e ir chim ne ys.T h e p o p u la r d ictu m is th e m o re e la b o ra te th e c h im n e y pot, th e w e a lth ie r th e ow ner. O rig in a lly c a rv e d o f w o o d , la te r ceram ic, and th e n eventually c o n c re te w as used .T he area a ro u n d Fa ro and O lh o in p a rtic u la r e n jo y a stro n g re p u ta tio n f o r r o o fto p art, b u t ke e p y o u r eyes skyw ard and yo u'll se e p re tty c h im n e y p o ts all o v e r th e A lg a rv e .

Towards Faro d ecorated saddles an d bridles) an d furniture. T h e craftsm en o f Lou l are said to be the de scen d an ts o f a co m m u n ity o f M u slim s w h o foun d refuge in the d istric t a t the en d o f the C h ristian R econ q u est. If you a re in the A lg a rv e in sp r in g tim e, d o n t m iss the L o u l C arnival. T h e p arad es, Battle o f F lo w ers an d m u sical cele b ra tio n s are the b e st o f their kin d in the region. T h e flo w e r-lin e d r o a d fro m L o u l to S o B r s de A lp o r t e l, a n o th e r m a r k e t to w n a n d site o f o n e o f fo u r
A fam ily o f s t o r k s ta k e s ad v a n ta g e o f an A lgarv ian chim n ey

57

pousadas (go vern m ent-ow n ed inns) alo n g the A lgarve, p asses

th ro u g h ro llin g o r c h a r d s o f fig , o liv e an d o r a n g e trees. Its b e st to v isit th e to w n o n S a tu r d a y , w h en th e lively m a r k e t tr a n sfo r m s its o th e rw ise sle ep y ch aracter. Y o u m ay w ish to p a y a visit to the lovely Museu Regional do A lg arv e (E th n o g ra p h ic M u se u m ), w h ere ex h ib its o f A lg arv ian c o stu m e s are w ell sta g e d in a la rg e , o ld h o u se 9 0 m (1 0 0 y d s) o r so o f f the m a in sq u a re . In th is n o rth ern p a r t o f the p ro v in ce , life is v isib ly slo w e r a n d m o r e r u s tic ; b o n n e te d la d ie s in b la c k w a lk a lo n g the r o a d s id e , o ld m en a r e c a r r ie d a lo f t d o n k e y s, a n d fa m ilie s p lu ck a lm o n d s fro m the trees w ith lo n g stic k s.

Towards Faro
O n th e r o a d to w a r d s F a r o is a p a ir o f h isto ric a l sig h ts. T h e P alcio de E st i is a c h a rm in g r o c o c o p a la c e , w h ich o n ce b e lo n g ed to the D u k e s o f E st i. A b a n d o n e d a n d d ila p id a te d

Faro and Environs fo r m an y y e a rs, it is bein g tra n sfo rm e d in to a n ew pousada (a sta te-o w n ed h o tel, u su a lly - a s h ere - h o u se d w ith in an h istoric bu ild in g) a n d , w h en it o p e n s in 2 0 0 9 , sh o u ld be one o f the m o st in te restin g pousadas in w h ich v isito rs c a n stay. A new w in g w ith 4 9 r o o m s, co m p le te w ith sw im m in g p o o l a n d sp a , is b ein g bu ilt. T h e sa lo n s are to be retain ed a s p u b lic a r e a s a n d th e S o J o s c h ap e l re sto re d fo r re lig io u s ce re m o n ie s. E le g a n t g r o u n d s fe a tu r e b a lu s tr a d e te r r a c e s an d sta irc a se s w ith sp le n d id b u rsts o f b o u g ain v ille a, b u sts o f h is to ric c h a ra c te rs im p a le d o n the p a r a p e ts, b rig h tly c o lo u re d w all tiles a n d fo rm a l g a rd e n s. T h e d u sty V illa R o m a n a de M ilreu (R o m an ruin s o f M ilreu) is located 1 .5 k m (1 m ile) d ow n the ro ad fro m the village, on the route to w a rd s F a ro (a sm all sign on the side o f the ro ad read s R u in a s de M ilreu ). Som e 1 ,4 0 0 y ears b efore the P alace o f E st i w a s erected , M ilreu w a s a lso the large co u n try h ou se o f an em inent p erso n . T h e knee-high w alls th at trace the o u t line o f this o n c e-lu x u rio u s estab lish m e n t are still clearly visi ble. T h e tall, sem i-circu lar tow er ruin is th o u g h t to have been a tem ple to p a g a n w ater g o d s a t one tim e; how ever, by the 5th century it h ad clearly been co n verted to a ch urch.

FARO AND ENVIRONS

F a ro , th e p r o v in c ia l c a p it a l o f th e A lg a r v e , is a ls o th e o n e th a t se e m s to g e t th e le a s t r e sp e c t fro m to u r ists. M a n y fly in to F a r o , m a k e a b e elin e f o r th e ir r e so r ts a n d re tu rn tw o w e e k s later, b y p a s s in g th e city fo r th e a ir p o r t. T h o s e w h o ta k e the tim e - a d a y is su fficie n t - to e x p lo re F a r o fin d an a tm o sp h e re q u ite d istin c t fro m the reso rt-h eav y c o a st. F a r o h as a g reater w ealth o f cu ltu ral an d h istoric m o n u m en ts th an an y oth er A lg a rv ia n to w n , a p ictu resq u e o ld q u arter an d best o f a ll, to u r ists n ev er o v e r r u n au th e n tic P o rtu g u e se r e s ta u ra n ts, c a f s a n d b a rs.

A view a c r o s s F a r o s h a r b o u r w ith th e A r c o d a Vila t o th e right

F a r o w a s a lw a y s a n im p o r ta n t to w n , even d u rin g R o m a n tim e s, w h e n it w a s a llo w e d to m in t its o w n c o in s. It c o n tin u e d to th rive u n d e r th e A r a b s ; its n a m e m a y be d eriv ed fro m the n am e Harune, o n e o f the o ld c ity s ru lin g fam ilie s. T h e C h r is tia n s r e c a p t u r e d F a r o in 1 2 4 9 , c o m p le tin g the R e c o n q u e st, a n d the city p r o sp e r e d , b e co m in g the e p isc o p a l see o f the B ish o p o f the A lg arv e in 1 5 7 7 . B u t in 1 5 9 6 , w hen it w a s S p a n ish te rrito ry , a n E n g lish fle e t c o m m a n d e d by Q u een E liz a b e th Is fa v o u r ite , the E a rl o f E sse x , sa c k e d an d b u rn ed th e c a p ita l. U n til c o m p a r a tiv e ly rece n tly , w h e n th e a r e a silte d in to a tid a l fla t, F a r o w a s a c o m m e rc ia l a n d fish in g p o r t o p en to th e A tla n tic . In d e e d , th e E a r l o f E s s e x s fleet h a d sa ile d r ig h t u p to th e c ity s A r a b fo r tific a tio n s. T o d a y , sm a ll fis h in g b o a ts a n d p le a su r e c r a ft m u st z ig z a g c a re fu lly a m id the d u n e s a n d th en c re e p b e n e ath th e r a ilw a y b r id g e to en ter the sle ep y h a rb o u r.

Old Town
T h e m ain entran ce to the cir cu lar o ld to w n , n ear the h a r b o u r, is th e 1 9 th -c e n tu ry A r c o d a V ila , a lo v e ly arch a n d b e ll to w e r h a b itu a lly c r o w n e d b y a v e n e ra b le fa m ily o f n e stin g sto r k s . B e y o n d th e a r c h , a c o b b le d str e e t, w o r n slic k b y c e n tu rie s o f tra m p in g feet, le ad s u p to th e sp le n d id e x p a n s e o f th e L a rg o da S (C a th e d ra l S q u a re ), b e st seen in the e v e n in g w h en flo o d lit a n d free o f c a r s. T h e on ly re m ain s o f the 1 3th -cen tu ry G o th ic S
T h e c a th ed ral t o w e r

(M o n - S a t 1 0 a m - n o o n , 2 5 p m ; ch arge fo r m u seu m and tow er) are the u nu su al cath e

dral tower, m ain portico an d tw o interior chapels. T he entrance is a t the sid e. A s y o u enter, lo o k o u t fo r the re m ain s o f the C a p e la d o s O sso s (B one C h ap el). In side are so m e fine e x a m ples o f azulejos a n d su perb statu es an d carvin gs, one o f the A l g a rv es to p collections o f 17th- an d 18th-century religiou s art. C lim b the tow er fo r fine view s over the w hole o f F aro . A c ro ss the sq u a re is the Pao Episcop al (B ish o p s P alace), a n ex celle n t e x a m p le o f th e p la in ch sty le p re v a le n t d u rin g th e 1 7 th ce n tu ry . T o its r ig h t is th e C m ara M unicipal (T ow n H a ll). Th e C o n v en to de N ossa S e n h o ra da A ssu n o (C on ven t o f O u r L a d y o f the A ssu m p tio n ) co n tain s the m o st beautifu l cloister in sou th ern P ortu gal. T h e first R e n aissan ce bu ilding in

Faros Town C entre the A lgarve, it w a s co n stru cted in the 16th century on the site o f the o ld Je w ish q u arter (F aro h a d a sizeab le Je w ish p o p u la tion in the M id d le A ges). A b an d o n e d a s a co n ven t in the 19th century an d then p u t to use a s a co rk factory, it h as been b eau tifully restored a s a m u seu m devoted to art an d arch aeology , the M useu M unicipal (Ju n e-S ep t T u e-F ri 12 .3 0 p m -m id n ig h t, S a t-Su n 5 .3 0 p m -m id n ig h t, O c t-M a y T u e-Fri 1 0 am -6 p m , S a tSun 1 0 .3 0 a m - 5 p m ; ch arg e; tel: 2 8 9 - 8 9 7 4 0 0 ). T h e p rin cip al exh ib it is a 2,0 0 0 -y ear-o ld R o m an flo o r m o saic m easu rin g 9m (30ft) lo n g a n d 3m (10ft) w ide. U n earth ed in F a ro , it is n ick n a m ed the O cea n M o s a ic , fo r it d ep ic ts a b e ard e d se a-g o d (though the bu lld ozer th at discovered it in 1 9 7 6 sh aved o ff the lo w er h a lf o f h is face). T h e re are a lso b u sts ta k e n fro m the R o m a n ruins a t M ilreu . D isp lay s o f P ortu gu ese art are h ou sed in the m an y ro o m s o ff the cloister. N e a r b y is th e E r m id a de N o s sa S e n h o ra do R ep o u so (H erm itag e o f O u r L a d y o f R e st), a tiny 18th -cen tu ry ch apel carv ed o u t o f the a n c ien t M o o r ish arch es. Ju s t o u tsid e the o ld q u arter is the Igreja de So Fran cisco (C h u rch o f St F ran cis), w hich w a s begu n in the late 17th cen tury. N a r r a tiv e tiles a d o r n th e m ain c h ap e l an d v a u lte d ceil in g, w h ich d isp la y s a terrific p an e l o f the C o ro n a tio n o f the V irg in M ary .

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C la ssica l coffee

Town Centre
In the centre o f to w n , a c r o ss fr o m th e h a r b o u r, th e c o b b led a n d sh a d e d m u n ic ip a l Ja rd im M anuel B iv a r, c r e a te d in th e 1 5 th c e n tu ry a s Q u een s S q u a re , is a p o p u la r m eetin g p la c e fo r y o u n g an d o ld a lik e. In its centre are an o p e n - a ir c a f a n d a n o ld -

T h e real attraction of Faro's old tow n is n ot its set-p iece buildings, but the quiet, hidden, tim eless flavour o f its tiny h ou ses and narrow, cobbled alleyw ays.A g o o d place to sit and a b so rb so m e o f it is the C af d o Largo, w here classical m usic accom panies your coffee.

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Faro and Environs fa sh io n e d b a n d s ta n d . S e v e r a l h a n d so m e 1 6 th - to 1 8 th cen tu ry m a n sio n s su rro u n d the sq u a r e , in c lu d in g the B a n co de P o rtu g a l b u ild in g a n d the P a l c io B e lm ar o . A s in several o th er A lg arv e to w n s, the m ain sh o p p in g are a o f cen tral F a r o is p ed estrian -on ly , an d c a f s an d re sta u ra n ts sp ill o u t o n to the stree t, fish d isp la y s a n d all. R u a d e S a n to A n tn io is the m ain th o ro u g h fare . A t its fa r end is the M useu Etn og rfico Regional do A lg a rv e (E th n o g rap h ic M u se u m ; M o n - F r i 9 a m - 1 2 .3 0 p m , 2 - 5 . 3 0 p m ), w ith d isp la y s o f lo c a l h a n d icra fts, reco n stru c tio n s o f ro o m s in a ty p ical A lg arv ian h ou se, an d a co lo u rfu l w a te rcart th at M an u e l Ig n acio M ig u el o f O lh o o p e r a te d fo r 6 0 y e a rs , a lm o st u p to h is d e a th in 1 9 7 4 . T h e m u seu m sits on the edge o f F a r o s M o u r a ria , or old M o o rish quarter. Its w o rth w an d erin g the streets th at lead to Larg o do P da C r u z a n d the a ttractiv e little 17th -cen tu ry ch apel o f the sa m e n am e (O u r L a d y o f the F o o t o f the C ro ss).
T h e chilling in te r io r o f th e C a p e la d o s O s s o s

Praia de Faro T h e new tow n , an e x p an sio n d atin g fro m the 19th century, is w e st o f h ere. T w o ch u rch es, w h ich fa c e eac h o th er a c r o ss th e la rg e a n d c o n g e ste d L a r g o d o C a r m o , are w o rth seeing. T h e Ig reja de S o Pedro (C h u rch o f S t Peter) is the sm aller o f the tw o , b u ilt in the 16 th century. It h a s a c arv e d b a ro q u e re ta b le a n d a co u p le o f r o c o c o c h ap e ls. B u t F a r o s fin e st ch u rch is Ig re ja do C a r m o (C a rm e lite C h u r c h ; M o n - F r i 1 0 a m - l p m , 3 - 5 p m , S a t m o r n in g o n ly ; ch a rg e ; tel: 2 8 9 - 8 2 4 4 9 0 ) , w h ich to o k m o st o f the 18th ce n tu r y to b u ild . T h e tw in b e ll to w e rs a n d sta te ly fa a d e are m a tc h e d by a b e a u tifu l g ild e d in terior, b u t th e g re a te st a t tractio n is the m a ca b re C a p e la dos O sso s (C h ap el o f Bones). T h is 19 th -cen tu ry cu riosity , like a sim ilar ch ap e l in the tow n o f v o ra furth er n orth , is co n stru cted o f the sk u lls an d bones o f m o n k s, u n e arth e d fro m th e f r ia r s cem etery. D e p e n d in g o n y o u r to le ran c e fo r su ch th in g s, it is eith er fa sc in a tin g o r sic k b e y o n d belief. L e ss g h a stly is the Jew ish C e m e t e r y , on the o u tsk irts o f to w n ( o ff R u a L e o P e n e d o , n e a r P r a a d o s B o m b e r o s de F a r o ). D a tin g to the early 19 th century, it h as m o re th an 1 0 0 to m b sto n e s in H ebrew , testim on y to the on ce-im p ortan t Je w ish c o m m u n ity in F a r o . F e w p e o p le seem to d o it, b u t it is w ell w o rth sp e n d in g a n igh t o r tw o in F a r o , e sp ecially if y o u ve alre a d y sp e n t so m e tim e in a tr a d itio n a l A lg a r v ia n b e a c h r e so r t. W atch the sun se ttin g o v e r th e fish in g b o a ts in th e la g o o n w h ile y o u h av e a d rin k in th e s p le n d id ly o ld - f a s h io n e d , c a v e r n o u s C a f A lia n a , th e c it y s o ld e s t c a f . F a r o a ls o h a s so m e liv ely m u sic b a r s.

63

Praia de Faro
F a r o s beach , the P raia de Faro , is n oted fo r its w ater sp o rts. Y o u c a n driv e th ere a c r o ss the sin g le-lan e c a u se w a y lin kin g the lo n g strip o f d u n es w ith the m ain lan d (no b u ses o r m o to r

h o m e s a llo w e d ), o r in the s u m m e r c a tc h a fe rry fro m th e p ie r by th e o ld to w n . If the sea is ro u g h , sim ply cro ss to th e o p p o s ite sid e o f the sa n d s p it a n d sw im in the c a lm , w a r m e r w a te r s o f the la g o o n (th o u gh be a w a r e , it c a n so m e tim e s be m u d d y an d a little u n p le a sa n t).

EASTERN ALGARVE
Olho
H e a d in g e a s t fro m F a r o , the fir s t se ttle m e n t o f a n y siz e y o u w ill co m e to is the fish in g to w n o f O lh o . A w o r k in g p o r t, it h a s m a d e few c o n c e s sio n s to to u r ism a n d is full o f ch aracter. O lh o h a s o fte n been d e sc rib e d a s th e little w h ite C u b ist to w n o f th e A lg a r v e ', its a r c h ite c tu r e lik e n e d to th a t o f | N o r t h A fr ic a n to w n s . T h a t m a y h a v e b e en th e c a s e so m e y e a rs a g o , b u t m o d e rn d e v e lo p m e n t h a s str o n g ly in te rfered w ith its once-distinctive a p p e a ra n c e . Y o u can ju d g e fo r y o u r se lf by a sc e n d in g the bell to w e r o f th e p a r ish ch u rch , N o ssa S e n h o r a do R o s rio , w h ich y o u ll fin d b y w in d in g y o u r w a y th ro u gh the n a rro w streets b a c k to the P ra a d a R e sta u r a o (y o u m a y h av e to a s k fo r a c c e ss to th e to w e r in the s a c r is t y ) . F o u n d e d by K in g D o m P e d ro II in 1 6 9 8 , th e ch u rch h a s a n im p re ssiv e , sc ro ll- d e c o r a te d b a r o q u e fa a d e , b r illia n t w h ite d o m e , sto n e b e ll to w e r a n d a c h a p e l a t the rear, N ossa S e n h o ra dos A flito s (O u r L a d y o f the A fflicted ),

Olho w h ere w o m e n o fte n p r a y w h en th e ir fish e rm e n h u sb a n d s a re a w a y a t sea. In ste a d o f th e red -tiled r o o fs an d filig reed ch im n eys seen elsew h ere in the A lg a rv e , the O lh o sk y lin e c o m p r ise s flatto p p e d r o o fs o f te rra ce s c alle d aoeitas. L o o k carefu lly an d y o u c a n still see th e n a r ro w , o u tsid e s ta ir c a s e s le a d in g to w h ite-w a sh e d to w e rs, w h ere fish e rm e n s w iv e s, o r p e r h a p s sm u g g le rs, w o u ld lo o k o u t fo r the in c o m in g fleet. T h e n a m e o f the sq u a re , P ra a da R e sta u ra o (R e sto ratio n S q u a r e ), recalls 0 1 h o s m o st g lo rio u s m om en t, w hen an im p ro v ised lo c al a rm y rebelled a g a in st N a p o le o n s o c c u py in g fo rc es in 1 8 0 8 . T h is in su rre ctio n ary zeal su b seq u en tly sp re a d th ro u g h o u t the rest o f P o rtu g a l an d resu lted in O lh o b ein g a w a r d e d the title N o b le T o w n o f the R e sto r a tio n . O lh a o s fish in g p o r t is w o rth a lo o k . T h e fish erm en o f the to w n h av e a r e p u ta tio n fo r h ard in e ss - so m e u se d to earn a livin g in the c o d -sto c k e d w a te rs a s fa r a w a y a s N e w fo u n d la n d . D u r in g th e p a s t tw o c e n tu rie s, h ow ever, so m e o f the sa ilo r s h ave tu rn ed a w a y fro m fish in g a n d in ste ad , ta k e n to the c a r g o trad e betw een P o rtu g al an d N o rth A fric a. T h is rel atively recent link w ith the n eig h b o u rin g co n tin en t m ay have been the in sp ir a tio n fo r the lo c a l N o r t h A fric a n sty le o f a r c h ite c tu re . In a n y c a s e , it d e v e lo p e d lo n g a fte r the M o o r s h a d left the A lg arv e. Y o u re u n lik ely to see a b o a t co m in g in fro m a n o th er c o n tin e n t, b u t y o u a re g u a r a n te e d th e h u stle , b u s tle, sig h ts, sm ells an d so u n d s o f o n e a t th e O lh o fish m a rk et, on e o f the A lg a rv es b e st (th e to w n is e sp e c ia lly
N o s s a S e n h o r a d o s A flito s

65

Eastern Algarve fa m o u s fo r its m u sse ls a n d o th e r sh ellfish ). A d ja c e n t t o the v o lu m in o u s m a r k e t b u ild in g s are sm a ll, w ell-ten d ed p a r k s, one o f w h ich b o a sts several sp le n d id ben ch es d e c o ra te d w ith blu e-an d -w h ite azulejos. J u s t b e y o n d the p a r k o n the oth er sid e, ferries d e p a rt reg u larly in su m m er fo r the b arrier-islan d beach es o f A r m o n a a n d C u la t ra ju st o ffsh o re . T h e se lovely, u n d er-d ev elo p ed b e a ch e s are th e jew e ls o f the co a stlin e b e t w een F a r o a n d T a v ira a n d d ra w la rg e c r o w d s in su m m er. A little fu rth er a lo n g the c o a st, a t F u z e ta , is a n o th e r p o p u la r beach . T h e re is so m e h o lid a y d e v e lo p m e n t here, b u t as yet o n ly o n a sm a ll sc a le . F u z e ta itse lf is little m o re th an a few gaily p ain te d b o a ts b o b b in g a t an c h o r o n the inlet, w hile in the b a c k g ro u n d lo c al w o rk e rs r a k e sa lt c ry sta ls in to sm all w h ite m o u n ta in s p u n c tu a tin g the d elta. T u rn in la n d , b e c a u s e th e sm a ll v illa g e o f M o n ca ra p a ch o , w ith a fin e o ld c h u rc h , a sle e p y v illa g e s q u a r e a n d a fa sc in a tin g little m u se u m , is w ell w o r th th e 8 k m (5 -m ile) d eto u r. T h e c o u n try sid e a r o u n d h ere is fu ll o f o r a n g e an d a lm o n d g r o v e s a n d , a s y o u h e a d e a s t ( b a c k o n th e m a in

A zu lejo s
It is thanks t o th e M o o r s th a t Portugal is so liberally e n d o w e d w ith glazed tiles, or.ozulejos.The nam e p ro b a b ly de riv e s fro m th e A r a b ic Al Zulaicha, o r Zuleija, m eaning ce ra m ic m osaic. O t h e r influences w e re p ainters from France, Italy and G erm any, as w e ll as Portugal's m a ritim e e m p ire. M ass p ro d u c tio n began a fte r th e 1755 e a rth q u ak e , b u t small fam ily b u sin e sse s using o ld m e th o d s c o n tin u e d , and still e x is t today. A fine e x a m p le o f t h e cra ft is in t h e ch u rc h o f So L o u re n o in A lm a n sil. Its in t e r io r w a lls and d o m e a re e n tire ly fa c e d w ith b lu e -a n d -w h ite tile s d ep ictin g scenes fro m th e life o f S t Law re nce . O t h e r e xa m p le s are th e tile d stairw ays in th e g ard ens o f th e villa a t E sti and th e scenes fro m th e life o f St Francis in th e C h u rc h o f So Francisco in Faro.

T h is azule jo in O lh o re fle c ts th e to w n s principal tr a d e

ro a d ) to w a r d s T a v ira , olive g ro v e s an d v in e y ard s a lso sta rt to a p p ea r. T a v ir a s g ra p e s p r o d u c e a g o o d , ru stic w in e c o n su m e d all o v er the A lg arv e.

Tavira
A fte r th e sa lty f la v o u r o f O lh o a n d th e r u r a l se re n ity o f M o n c a r a p a c h o , th e a r isto c r a tic b e a rin g s o f Tav ira, on e o f the tru e g e m s o f th e A lg a r v e , m a y co m e a s so m e th in g o f a su rp rise . O n e o f the r e g io n s m o st h isto ric citie s, its M o o r ish , Reconquista a n d R e n a issa n c e r o o ts are cle arly visib le. In th e 1 5 0 0 s , T a v ir a h a d th e la r g e s t p o p u la t io n o n the A lg arv e. T h is tu n a-fish in g p o r t an d se lf-assu red to w n o f h is to ric ch u rch es, im p o sin g c lassical-sty le m a n sio n s an d river fro n t g a rd e n s p r o b a b ly d a te s b a c k a s fa r a s the P h o en ician s o r the C arth a g in ia n s. Its seven-arched sto n e brid ge o f R o m a n o r ig in is still in u se . T a v ir a s c a s t le ( M o n - F r i 9 a m - 5 p m , S a t - S u n a n d h o lid a y s 1 0 a m - 5 p m ) , in th e m id d le o f the

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Eastern Algarve

centro histrico (old q u a rte r), w a s a d efen sive stru ctu re bu ilt
by the M o o r s. C lim b the w a lls fo r a su p e rb p a n o r a m ic view o f the city, b u t be carefu l, a s the r a m p a rts h ave n o han d -rails. W ith in the w a lls is a n a ttra c tiv e , fra g ra n t g a rd e n . T h e w a lls lo o k d ire ctly o n to th e Ig re ja de S a n ta M aria do C a s te lo (C h u rch o f S t M a r y o f th e C a stle ), m o s t likely b u ilt o n the site o f the o ld m o sq u e . T h e G o th ic p o r ta l is the on ly o rig in a l 1 3 th -cen tu ry p a r t o f the b u ild in g to h av e su r v ived the d e v a sta tin g 1 7 5 5 e a r th q u a k e . In the ch an cel is the large to m b o f D o m P a io Peres C o rre ia , w h o d ro v e the M o o r s o u t o f T a v ira in 1 2 4 2 . A c r o s s th e sq u a r e , th e o c h r e - c o lo u r e d fo rm e r c o n v e n t, C o n v e n to da G r a a , h a s b e en c o n v e r te d in to an e le g a n t

pousada (inn; see page 136).

Ju st dow n the hill, o ff R u a G aleria n ear the river, is the b eau tiful 16th-century Igreja da M isericrd ia (C h u rch o f M ercy),
T h e h isto ric city o fT av ira on th e ban k s o f th e G il o

A r o u n d T a v ira

69

a spectacular R en aissan ce ed ifice. T h e carved portico is es pecially fine, w ith a statu e o f O u r L a d y o f M e rc y u n d er a can opy. T h e 18th-century in te rio r c o n ta in s fin e g ild e d w o o d w o r k a n d azulejos. R u a da L ib e rd a d e , T a v i r a s m ain street, is lined w ith sta te ly 1 6 th -c en tu ry m a n sio n s. A w a lk d o w n a n y o f the city s old streets w ill rev eal h an d som e details o f noble h o u se s, su ch a s d o u b le w in d o w s an d latticed d o o r s. A lively fru it an d vegetab le m ark et is h eld by the b a n k s o f the R iver G il o , an d it is w ell w orth cro ssin g the R o m a n brid ge to view m ore o f the to w n s elegant h o u ses an d pretty flow er-filled sq u ares. M a n y o f th o se h ou ses h ave slo p in g tria n g u la r ro o fs, called tesouros (treasu res).
An e le g a n t fa a d e alon gT avira's R ua d a L ib e rd a d e

Around Tavira
A nice e x c u rsio n fro m T a v ira is to the n e arb y islan d llha de T a v ira , w h ere th ere is a h u ge a n d th o r o u g h ly a p p e a lin g b e a c h b a c k e d by sa n d d u n e s. B o a t s leav e fro m Q u a tr o A g u a s, 2 k m (1 m ile) e a s t o f to w n . B a c k o n the m a in la n d , a tu r n -o ff fro m th e m ain r o a d e a st o f T a v ira le a d s to a p erfectly en c h an tin g little w h itew ash e d v illa g e o v e rlo o k in g th e se a. P retty C a c e la V e lh a c a n t h ave m o re th an 1 0 0 in h a b ita n ts. It h a s an 18th -cen tu ry ch u rch , a te le p h o n e b o o th , a cem etery, a n o ld w ell a n d a h a n d fu l o f w ell-ten d ed , b lu e-an d -w h ite h o u se s fe sto o n e d w ith flo w ers. E a st o f here lies the fledglin g reso rt o f M anta Rota, a fo r m er fishing village, an d the high-rise can yons o f Monte Gordo. T h e reaso n behind all this d evelopm en t is a lon g san d y beach,

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Eastern Algarve w h ich stretch es u n d istu rb e d fo r som e 10 k m (6 m iles) bet w een the tw o r e so rts a n d is b a c k e d by p in e trees an d du nes. A lth ou gh the la st in a lo n g line o f A lg a rv e beach reso rts (or the first, if y o u re co m in g fro m S p ain ) is n ot, by a lo n g sh o t, the c o a s ts m o st a ttr a c tiv e , the b e ach an d w ate r-sp o rts facilities at M o n te G o r d o are en o u g h to attract and entertain m any se rious sun-seekers. By night the casin o is the fo cu s o f attention.
C e m e te r y a t C a c e la V e lh a

Castro Marim
T h e G u a d ia n a R iv e r, w h ich r u n s in to th e A tla n tic 3 k m (2 m iles) e a st o f M o n te G o r d o , se rv ed a s a n a tu r a l fro n tier fo r 2 ,0 0 0 y e ars, fo rm in g the b o u n d a ry b etw een the R o m a n p r o v in c e s o f L u s ita n ia (P o r tu g a l) a n d B a e tic a (so u th e rn S p a in ). T h is e x p la in s th e s tr a te g ic im p o r ta n c e o f C a s t r o M arim , a fo rm e r fo rtr e ss to w n risin g fro m the fla tla n d s to c o m m a n d th e b r o a d river. F o r fiv e c e n tu rie s its p rim itiv e castle-fo rtress w a s o c cu p ie d by the M o o r s. A fter the C h r ist ian R eco n q u est it becam e the h om e o f the new M ilitary O rd er o f C h rist (su cceed in g the d isb a n d e d K n ig h ts T e m p lars). B e lo w the c a stle , the sa ltp a n s a n d u n p o llu te d m a rsh la n d s o f the lo c a l n a tu re reserv e a ttr a c t a la rg e n u m b e r o f w a d e rs (lo o k o u t fo r sto rk s, eg rets an d b lack -w in g ed stilts). In 1 9 9 1 a n ew s u sp e n sio n b r id g e a c r o s s th e riv er w a s b u ilt to lin k so u th ern P o rtu g a l a n d so u th e rn S p a in , an d the fo rm a l b o r d er betw een the tw o co u n trie s h a s sin ce been a b o lish e d . It is w o rth d riv in g north alo n g the G u a d ia n a fo r the p re t ty scenery a n d riversid e v illag es. A ltern atively y o u can tak e a

Vila Real de S. Antnio b o a t a lo n g the river, startin g a t V ila R e al d e S a n to A n t n io

7 1

(see below; w w w .r io s u ltr a v e l.c o m ). T im e le ss A lc o u tim is

crow n ed by castle ruins an d lo o k s acro ss a t San l car in Spain , sim ilarly d o m in a te d by ancient fo rtress rem ain s. A ferry links the tw o villag es an d b o a ts are av a ila b le fo r river trips. In the rem o te h ills to th e so u th w e st, the Parq u e M iniero C o v a d o s M o uro s ( 2 k m / l m ile so u th o f V a q u e iro s) is a re c o n stru c tio n o f a n Iro n A g e m in in g se ttlem en t. T h e c o p p e r m in es h ere w ere u sed fo r o v er 5 ,0 0 0 y e a rs; y o u c an still see m in e sh a fts, a lo n g w ith reb u ilt h u ts, a fo rt an d fu rn ace s. O th er a ttractio n s o f this eco lo g ical p a rk are the d on key rides, n a tu r a l p o o ls fo r sw im m in g a n d m a r k e d f o o tp a th s fo r e x p lo r in g th e flo r a a n d fa u n a o f the u n sp o ilt co u n try sid e. Vila R eal d e S a n to A n t n io

Vila Real de Santo Antnio

R e tu rn in g to the c o a s t, the to w n o f V ila Real de San to A n t n io (the R o y a l T o w n o f St A n th on y ) is the la st o f the A lg arv es beach to w n s before Sp ain . T h e city w a s d esign ed to be a s g ra n d a s its n am e su g g e sts, in o rd e r to im p ress the Sp an ish o n the oth er side o f th e river. T h e to w n p la n w a s the in sp ir a tio n o f the M a r q u s o f P o m b a l, K in g J o s Is fa v o u r e d a rch itec t, a n d the tow n w a s built in ju st five m o n th s in 1 7 7 4 , ap in g the g rid la y o u t o f L is b o n s B a ix a (low er city).

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Excursion to Lisbon Th e tow n sq u are, the P raa do M arqus do Pombal, is the w o rk o f the ro y al arch itect an d the to u r de force o f V ila R eal. T h e p avem en ts black-and-w h ite w ed ges o f sto n e rad iate fro m a n o b elisk in the centre o f the sq u a re like ray s fro m the sun. D istin g u ish e d th ree-storey, late 1 Bth-century h o u se s line the sq u a re , a n d o ra n g e trees so ften the e d g e s, ad d in g c o lo u r an d scent. V isit the sm all M anuel C a b a n a s M useum , ju st o ff the sq u a re , to see a nice co llectio n o f w o o d c u ts th at ra n g e s fro m ru stic scenes to fa m o u s state sm e n an d c o m p o se rs. T o d a y V ila R e a l is q u iet b u t d ign ified . A w a lk a ro u n d the o ld q u arter reveals a n u m ber o f fine, brightly p ain te d h o u ses along pedestrian-only streets. V ila R eal de San to A n tonios m ain a p p e a l is a s the ferry p o r t to A y a m o n te a c r o ss the w a te r in Spain . T h e trip tak e s ju st 2 0 m inutes - less tim e th an it w o u ld ta k e to drive to a n d over the brid ge - a n d the w hite to w n o f A yam onte is a fine sigh t a s y ou a p p ro a c h it fro m the river.

EXCU RSIO N TO LISBON

U n til th e 1 9 th ce n tu ry , th e o v e r la n d jo u r n e y fro m th e A lg a rv e to L is b o n , P o r tu g a ls c a p it a l city, t o o k a w e e k o r m ore. N o w its o n ly tw o to th ree h o u rs by r o a d o r rail, an d y o u ca n fly fro m F a r o in ju st 4 0 m in u tes. F o r y ears L isb o n h a s h ad a re p u ta tio n a s a relatively qu iet, easy -g oin g to w n , la ck in g the hustle an d b u stle o f oth er m a jo r E u ro p e an cities. B u t w hile this is still tru e to a degree, the g a p is clo sin g a n d L isb o n is b e co m in g alto g eth e r m o re E u ro p e an . T h e centre o f L isb o n is sm a ll, c o m p a c t an d e a sy to get aroun d in ju st a couple o f days. M oreover, it h as tw o lovely old qu arters th at are a s full o f ch aracter a s an y p lace in E u rope. T h e city is b u ilt o n h ills - by leg en d se v e n , in fa c t m an y m o re - b u t th e g re a t th in g fo r the v isito r is th e sp le n d id v a n ta g e p o in ts a n d lo o k o u ts th at th ese p ro v id e . T h e b e st p la c e to sta r t y o u r to u r o f L isb o n is fro m th e M o o r s o ld c a stle ,

TheAlfam a th e C a s t e lo de S o Jo rge, th e k in g o f a ll v a n t a g e p o in ts. F ro m h ere y o u c a n lo o k o u t o v e r th e w h o le o f the city an d a lo n g the b r o a d R io T e jo (R iv er T a g u s), sp a n n e d by o n e o f th e lo n g e st su sp e n sio n b rid g e s in E u ro p e . T h e c a stle is se t ju st a b o v e L is b o n s m o st fa m o u s bairro (d istrict), the A lfa m a . H ere y o u w ill d isco v e r a lab y rin th o f n a r ro w , c r o o k e d str e e ts, c o b b le d a lle y w a y s , d e c a y in g o ld h o u se s, fo rm e r p a la c e s, fish sta lls a n d b a r s to ta lly u n k n o w n to th e v a s t m a jo r ity o f to u r is ts . L ittle h a s c h a n g e d h ere in d e c a d e s, if n o t cen tu ries. A n o th er m a je stic view o f the city is fro m the M iradouro de S a n ta L u z ia , a p a r k ju st d o w n the hill fro m the castle. N e a r b y is th e S (C a t h e d ra l), w h ich h a s a n an cien t, c a v e r n o u s in te rio r - o n e o f p e r h a p s a d o z e n fir st- c la ss c h u rc h e s in th e city. A d ja ce n t to th e c a th e d r a l is th e Igreja de San to A n t n io da S , n a m e d f o r th e p a tr o n sa in t o f L isb o n , S t A n th o n y o f P adua. J u s t b e y o n d th e d en se qu arters o f the A lfa m a is So V ice n te de F o ra (St V incent B e y o n d th e W alls), an Italia n a te ch u rch a n d m o n a stic cloister. T h e latter is the true highlight: its w alls a n d co u rt y ard s are lined w ith blue-andw hite azulejos, an d the view s fro m the r o o f are a m o n g the best in the city.
A view a c r o s s th e city t o th e C a s t e lo d e S o Jo r g e

73

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Excursion to Lisbon D o w n to w a r d s the river is th e M useu N a cio n a l do A zu le jo (N a tio n a l T ile M u se u m ), d e v o te d en tirely to the a rt o f p a in te d an d g lazed c e ra m ic tile s, a n a tio n a l a rt form . A b o u t 1 2 ,0 0 0 azulejos are on sh o w here, from 15thcen tu ry p o ly c h ro m e d esig n s to 2 0 th -c e n tu r y A rt D e c o . A p r iz e d p o s s e s s io n is the

Lisbon Panoram a, a 3 6 m
(1 1 8 ft) lo n g tile co m p o sitio n o f L is b o n s riv e rsid e a s it lo o k e d b e fo r e th e G r e a t E a rth q u a k e o f 1 7 5 5 . T h e B a irro A lto (u p p er city) is a h illy a re a fu ll o f e v o c a tive h o u se s d e c o ra te d w ith w ro u g h t-ir o n b a lc o n ie s u su a lly o c cu p ie d by b ird c a g e s a n d flo w e rp o ts. A t n igh t the d istrict is lo a d e d w ith an e x citin g a tm o sp h e re an d is fa m o u s fo r its

E le v ad o r d e S an ta Ju sta

fado (fo lk m u sic ) c lu b s. I t s a re la tiv e ly h a r m le ss p la c e by

d ay, b u t y o u sh o u ld be o n y o u r g u a r d if visitin g after d a rk . P erch ed o n the ed g e o f the B a ir r o A lto is the Ig reja do C a rm o , a co n ven t d e v astate d in the earth q u a k e o f 1 7 5 5 bu t delib erately p reserved a s an atm o sp h e ric ruin an d p oten t rem inder o f its im p act. N earb y , the su m p tu o u s, 16th -century Igreja de So Roque featu re s a sm all m u seu m o f sac re d art. T h e co n v en t u sed to be co n n ec ted to the lo w er city by the la n d m a r k 3 0 m (9 8 ft) E le v a d o r de S a n ta Ju sta, a lift situ a te d o f f th e R o s s io sq u a r e in the B a ix a ; how ever, th e w a lk w ay lin kin g the lift a n d the u p p e r city w a s d estro y ed in a fire th a t sw ep t th ro u g h L isb o n in 1 9 8 8 , a n d n o w a d a y s y o u can on ly g o to the to p o f th e E le v a d o r (d efin itely w o rth the e f fo rt fo r the ex celle n t v iew s). T h is 1 9 0 2 V ic to ria n m arv el o f

The Baixa iron a n d g la ss w a s b u ilt by R a u l M esn ier, n o t, a s p o p u la rly b elieved , by G u sta v e E iffel. T o reach the u p m a rk e t sh o p p in g a re a o f C h ia d o , n o w to ta lly reb u ilt a fter the 1 9 8 8 fire, y ou h av e to slo w ly m ea n d e r u p b eh in d the E levad or. T h e B aixa is L isb o n s p rin cip al b u sin ess district. T h e m ain sq u a re is the P ra a D o m Pedro IV , better k n ow n a s Rossio. L o o k o u t fo r the ra ilw a y sta tio n , E sta o do Rossio, which lo o k s like a M o o rish p a la c e w ith h o rsesh o e arch es, ju st w est o f th e s q u a r e . T w o b lo c k s n o r th is a n o th e r liv ely sq u a r e , P r a a dos R e s ta u ra d o re s , w h ich le a d s to th e le a fy m ain th o r o u g h fa re , A ven id a d a L ib e rd a d e . T h e city p lu n g e s ste ep ly d o w n h ill to the R iv e r T a g u s an d its m o s t im p o sin g s q u a r e , P r a a do C o m r c io , lin e d on th ree sid e s by g r a c io u s a r c a d e d b u ild in g s a n d a v a s t tr i u m p h a l a rc h . T h e g r a n d sq u a r e , w h o lly w ip e d o u t by the e a rth q u a k e o f 1 7 5 5 , h a s seen its sh are o f w ate rsh e d p olitical
A fo u n tain o n L isb o n s main sq u a re , th e R o s sio

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Excursion to Lisbon events: K in g C a rlo s an d his so n w ere felled by a s s a s s in s b u l lets in the sq u a r e in 1 9 0 8 , a n d o n e o f th e first u p risin g s o f the C a rn a tio n R e v o lu tio n o f 1 9 7 4 w a s sta g e d here. M o v in g w est a n d d o w n to w a r d s the riv er fro m P ra a do C om rcio is the elegant residential n eigh bo urh ood called L ap a. Its stan d ou t sigh t is the M useu Nacional de A r t e A n tig a (N a tio n a l M u se u m o f A n cien t A rt), P o rtu g a ls la r g e st m u seu m . A m o n g its p ieces o f in tern atio n al ren ow n are The Adoration o f St Vincent, a m u lti- p a n e l w o r k a ttr ib u te d to th e 1 5 th century P o rtu g u ese m aster, N u n o G o n alv es; an d The Temp

tation o f St Anthony, a fa n tastic h allu cin atio n by H iero n ym u s

B osch , tem p ered w ith h u m o u r an d ex ecu ted w ith m a d genius. So m e 6 k m (4 m iles) w est o f P raa d o C o m rc io is the river side d istrict o f B e l m . It w a s fro m here th at the A g e o f E x p lo ratio n (begu n on the A lg arv e) reach ed its zenith betw een 1 4 9 7 a n d 1 4 9 9 , w h en V a sc o d a G a m a s v o y a g e to In d ia o p en ed u p a m a jo r new se a ro u te. D u rin g the fo llo w in g ce n tury, P ortu gal enjoyed a gold en age o f trad e, an d K in g M an u e l celebrated the d isco v erers w ith tw o m ag n ific en t m o n u m en ts. T h e m o st fa m o u s is the dim in u tive b u t ex q u isite ly fo rm ed T o rre de B elm . By c o n tra st the m aje stic M o steiro dos Je ro n im o s is L is b o n s la r g e st re lig io u s m o n u m e n t an d a fo r m i d ab le e x a m p le o f M a n u e lin e arch itectu re. T h e ch u rch a n d its d o u b le -d e ck e r clo ister su rv iv ed the 1 7 5 5 e a rth q u a k e ; in a d d itio n to h o u sin g r o y a l to m b s it a ls o h o ld s th e relics o f n ation al h eroes V asco d a G a m a an d the p o e t L u is de C am e s. T h e m o n a stery h o u ses the M u se u de A rq u e o lo g ia (A rch aeo l og y M u se u m ) a n d the M useu d a M arin ha (N a v a l M u se u m ). B ac k d o w n the street to w a r d s the to w n centre is the M useu N acional dos C o c h e s (N a tio n a l C o a c h M u se u m ), h o u sed in the fo rm er rid in g sc h o o l o f the B elm R o y a l P alace. A lso in B elm is the m o d e rn P ad ro dos D e s c o b rim e n to s (M o n u m e n t to th e D is c o v e r e r s). T h is h u g e w a te r fro n t sc u lp tu re d ep ic ts Prince H en ry the N a v ig a t o r a t the p r o w o f

P ad ro d o s D e sc o b r im e n to s

a sty lised ca ra v el th a t ju ts in to the T ag u s. T h e fig u re s behind r e p r e se n t n o te d e x p lo r e r s , m a p - m a k e r s a n d a str o n o m e r s w h o m P rince H en ry m o b ilised in o rd er to lau n ch P ortu gu ese sh ip s in to the h isto ry b o o k s. O p p o s ite th e P a d r o is th e sty lish C e n t r o C u ltu r a l de B e l m , w h ich p u ts o n te m p o ra r y e x h ib itio n s an d co n certs a n d is a ls o h o m e to L is b o n s D e sig n M u se u m . T h e r e s ta u r a n t h ere h a s fin e v iew s o v e r th e riv er a n d th e P a d r o d o s D e sc o b rim e n to s. T h e r iv e rfr o n t P a rq u e das N a e s ( N a t io n s P a rk ), d e sig n e d fo r E x p o 9 8 , d id m u c h to r e in v ig o r a te th e in d u s tria l e a ste rn se ctio n o f th e city. T h e p a r k c o n tin u e s to d ra w v is it o r s w ith th e s e c o n d la r g e s t o c e a n a r iu m in E u r o p e (O c e a n r io de L isb o a ), a n in te ra c tiv e sc ie n ce m u se u m , a n ew c a s in o a n d c a b le c a r s u p to T o rre de V a sc o d a G a m a , th e h ig h e st p o in t in th e city. T h e p a r k is e a s ily a c c e ss ib le by M e tro .

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W H A T TO DO
SPORTS

he A lg a rv e is a to p d e stin atio n fo r sp o r ts h o lid a y s. W ith g re a t w eath e r a n d su p e rb ly d esig n ed c o u rse s, the reg io n h a s lo n g been fa m o u s fo r g o lf. T en n is is a ls o b ig , an d so m e fo rm e r b ig n a m e s in B ritish ten n is h av e ta k e n a d v a n ta g e o f th e fa v o u r a b le c lim a te to se t u p s c h o o ls h ere. A n d w ith a r o u n d 1 6 0 k m ( 1 0 0 m iles) o f so u th -fa c in g b e ach e s, th ere is p len ty o f sc o p e fo r w a te r-sp o rts e n th u sia sts.

Golf
A lth o u g h a y ear-ro u n d sp o r t o n the A lg a rv e , g o lf is p lay e d m ain ly fro m O cto b er to M ay . T h ere are aro u n d 3 0 m a jo r g o lf co u rses, m an y d esigned by the sp o r ts b ig g est n am es. A ll b o ast lu xu ry clubh ouses, m anicured greens an d im m aculate fairw ays. T h e to p co urses are to be fo u n d aro u n d V ilam o u ra an d stretch w est to L a g o s. G reen fees ran ge fro m 9 0 to 2 0 0 (discou n ts possible) fo r 18 holes. All co u rses are open to visitors; m o st re qu ire an o fficial h a n d ica p certificate an d p ro p e r d ress. F o r full d etails visit w w w .alg arv eg o lf.n et. A m o n g the best co u rses are: L e M eridien Penina (near P ortim o): 3 6 holes. T h e longest a n d o ld est co u rse, w ith a d istin gu ish ed ch am p io n sh ip history. W a te rw a y s a n d la k e s d o m in a te . C h a m p io n sh ip c o u r se , r e q u ire d h a n d ic a p 2 8 m en, 3 2 w o m en . Tel: 2 8 2 - 4 2 0 2 0 0 . O c e n ic o Lag u n a: 1 8 h o le s. D e sig n e d b y Jo s e p h L e e, opened in 1 993. K n ow n for its w ater hazards. Tel: 2 8 9 -3 1 0 180. O c e n ic o M ille n n iu m : 18 h o le s. D e sig n e d b y M a r tin H a w tre e a n d o p e n e d in M a y 2 0 0 0 . B e a u tifu lly in te g r a te d in to the en v iron m en tal p a r k a t V ilam o u ra. Tel: 2 8 9 - 3 1 0 3 3 3 .
T h e fa m o u s 16th h o le a t V ale d o L o b o s Royal G o lf C o u r s e

W h a t to D o

G o lf packages
Algarve G olf can arrange discount rates and various packages.There are packages fo r playing all the co u rses at Vilam oura - 5 rounds in 7 days, 3 4 5 (high season); 7 rounds in 10 days, 440; www.algarvegolf.net.

O c e n ic o O ld C o u rs e : 18 h oles. D e sig n ed by F ran k P e n n in k , th is is a c la s s ic E n glish -sty le co u rse. G o lfers m u st p re se n t a c e rtificate o f h a n d ic a p n o g re ater th an 2 4 (m en ) o r 2 8 (w o m e n ). T el: 2 8 9-310 341. O c e n ic o P in h a l: 18

holes. O rigin ally d esign ed by F r a n k P en n in k a n d r e n o v a te d by th e A m e ric a n a r c h ite c t R o b e r t T re n t Jo n e s in 1 9 8 5 . F ir s t 9 h o le s a r e a m o n g the p in es, th e la st 9 h av e v iew s o f the se a. T el: 2 8 9 - 3 1 0 3 9 0 . O c e n ic o V ic to ria : 18 h o les. T h e n ew e st o f the sw an k y c o u rse s a t V ila m o u r a a n d the lo n g e st g o lf c o u rse in P o rtu g a l. D e sig n e d by A rn o ld P alm er. T el: 2 8 9 - 3 2 0 5 0 0 . P a lm a re s (n e a r L a g o s ) : 18 h o le s . A c h a lle n g in g c o u r se w ith an o c e a n p a n o r a m a , p lu s h igh h ills a n d d eep v alley s. V iew s o f B ay o f L a g o s. Tel: 2 8 2 - 7 9 0 5 0 0 . P arq u e d a F lo r e s ta (B u d e n s, n e a r S a le m a ): 18 h o le s. A sp e c ta c u la r r o llin g h illsid e c o u r se o ffe r in g e x c e lle n t v a lu e . A fa v o u rite w ith fa m ilie s, o ffe rin g a w id e ra n g e o f sp o r tin g facilities, a h eated o u td o o r p o o l an d a h ealth an d beau ty sp a. Tel: 2 8 2 - 6 9 0 0 5 4 . Q u in ta da Ria (near C a str o M a rim ): 18 h oles. O n e o f sev eral n ew g o lf c o u rse s in the e astern A lg arv e , w ith a stu n n in g settin g o v er the R ia F o r m o sa . Tel: 2 8 1 - 9 5 0 5 8 0 . Q u in ta do Lag o: T w o 1 8 -h o le c o u r se s , Q u in ta d o L a g o so u th a n d Q u in ta d o L a g o n o rth . A m o n g E u r o p e s fin e st co urses. A m erican -d esign ed w ith o u tstan d in g lush greens an d r o o m y fa irw a y s. T el: 2 8 9 - 3 9 0 7 0 0 . Royal (Vale d o L o b o ): 18 h oles. A ru g g ed terrain w ith fine v ie w s. T h e 1 6 th h o le is th e m o s t p h o to g r a p h e d h o le in E u ro p e . Tel: 2 8 9 - 3 5 3 5 3 5 .

Sports San L o re n z o (n ear Q u in ta d o L a g o ): 18 h o les. R a n k e d by G o lf W orld a s th e 5 th -b e st c o u rse in E u ro p e . R e q u ire d h a n d ic a p , 2 8 m en , 3 6 w o m en . Tel: 2 8 9 - 3 9 6 5 2 2 . S h e ra to n P ine Cliffs (P raia F a l sia ): 9 h o les. A lth o u g h n o t th e m o st ch a lle n g in g o f the A lg a r v e s c o u r se s, its ce r ta in ly o n e o f th e m o st p ic tu r e sq u e , w ith a c liffto p la y o u t o v e r lo o k in g th e se a . Tel: 2 8 9 - 5 0 0 1 1 3 . V ila S o l: 18 h o le s. C o n sid e r e d to h av e a m o n g the b e st fa ir w a y s in the A lg a rv e . Tel: 2 8 9 - 3 0 0 5 0 5 . V ilam o u ra: F o r all V ilam o u ra co u rses, reserve a t least tw o d a y s a h ea d by callin g central reservation s. Tel: 2 8 9 -3 1 0 3 3 3 . K een golfers sh ou ld con sider the op tion o f acco m m o d atio n at a hotel affiliated w ith a g o lf co urse. Typically these are esSurfin g a t Beliche B each tab lish m en ts very close to the to p g o lf co urses th at offer free (or discounted) g o lf on c o u rs es th at m ay otherw ise be h ard to g et a g a m e o n . T h e y a lso a rra n g e to u rn a m e n ts a m o n g their gu ests. Stayin g a t a villa on the fringes o f a fairw ay is an oth er w ay to secure greenfee d isco u n ts a n d g u a ra n te e ing preferential tee tim es.

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W ater Sports
M o s t o f th e la r g e r b e a c h e s h ave eq u ip m en t fo r h ire, bu t d o n t co u n t o n ex p ert tu ition ev e ry w h ere . A sid e fro m the m ain beach reso rts, there are g o o d fa c ilitie s a t P r a ia d a L u z (w h ere th e O c e a n C lu b

W h a t to D o h as its ow n w ater-sp orts cen tr e ), th e m a r in a a t V ila m o u ra , Q u in ta d o L a g o , P raia d a M a r tin h a l an d S a g re s. Jet-skiing. F o r m o re h igh sp e e d fu n o n th e w a te r y o u c an ren t a jet-sk i a t P raia d a R o c h a , Q u a r te ir a , A lv o r o r Q u in ta d o L a g o .

Plain sailing

Sailing. D in g h ie s a n d in stru c tio n are a v a ila b le a t Praia de Lu z, Q u in ta do L ag o

an d P o rtim o . Sailin g is a lso p o ssib le on the d a m , B a rrag e m d o A rad e. F o r b ig g er c raft try the m a rin a a t V ila m o u ra o r the C a rv o e iro C lu b . A n ch o rag e a n d h arb o u r facilities are availab le a t L a g o s, F a ro , O lh o , P or tim o , Sagres an d V ila R e al. B o a t cru ises are availab le in n ear ly all sp o ts a lo n g the A lg arv e. B o m D ia o ffers L a g o s- S a g r e s cru ises, b arb ecu e cru ises, d o lp h in sa fa ris an d g ro tto trip s d e p a r tin g fro m th e L a g o s m a r in a (tel: 2 8 2 - 7 6 4 6 7 0 ) . Mini C ru z e iro s do A lg arve (Q u ay Q , V ilam ou ra M a rin a ; tel: 2 8 9 3 0 2 9 8 4 ) run a variety o f c o a sta l m o to r an d sailin g cru ises. Scuba-diving. R eef, night, w reck, cave an d fresh w ater dives fro m n ea r L a g o s are o ffered by B lu e O c e a n D iv e rs in P o rto d e M s . T h ey a lso cater fo r co m p lete begin n ers (tel: 2 8 2 -7 8 2 7 1 8 ) . Y o u c a n a ls o e x p lo r e th e c o a s tlin e w ith ju s t a g o o d sn o rk e l a n d m a sk . O th er ce n tres in clu d e A tla n tic D iving a t P ra ia d o s A v e iro s a n d the D iv e rs C o v e a t C a rv o e iro .

Spa. N o t e x a c tly a w a te r sp o r t p er se, b u t the s p a w aters a t T e rm as de M o n ch iq u e (C a ld a s de M o n ch iq u e) h ave draw n v isitors since the 1 9th centu ry (w w w .m o n ch iq u eterm as.co m ). A g ro w in g n u m b e r o f sp a s are sp ro u tin g alo n g the c o a st. Surfing. T h e A tlan tic ro llers n o rth o f C a b o de S o V icente a ttr a c t se rio u s su rfe rs; S a g r e s is m o re su ita b le fo r n o v ices.

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Windsurfing. T h e m o s t p o p u la r w a te r s p o r t a lo n g the A lg a r v e c o a s t - y o u ll fin d g o o d in str u c tio n a t P ra ia d a R o c h a , F e r ra g u d o , P ra ia d a L u z , P raia de F a r o a n d Q u in ta d o L a g o . T h e la s t tw o h av e b o th o p e n se a a n d sh eltered w ater, p ro v id in g the lu x u ry o f calm c o n d itio n s.

Outdoor Sports and Activities

Fishing. T h e w aters o f the A lgarve provide som e o f the best bigg am e fishing in E u rope. T h e A tlantic O cean record, a blue m ar lin w eigh ing m ore th an 7 0 0 k g (1,5001b), w a s cau g h t ju st 8km (5 m iles) o ff the c o a st o f F a ro in 1 9 9 3 . Sh ark (m ostly blue, but
occasion ally copper, h am m erh ead , m a k o o r tiger), m arlin , billfish, large b ass an d g ian t co n g er a re reg u la rly h a u led in. Fishing on Fuzeta Beach S w o rd fish a n d tu n a c an be | c a u g h t fu rth er o u t. S a g re s, P o rtim o an d V ila m o u ra are the m ain cen tres, w h ere y ou c a n b o a rd a b o a t o r hire a crew. O ne outfit to consider is the Big G a m e Fishing C e n tre in P raia d a R o c h a (www. biggam efishin g.info). If the d eep se a d o e sn t a p p e a l, y o u c a n ren t a sm all b o at, ro d a n d reel. T h e co ast n o rth o f S a g r e s is on e o f the best sp o ts to d o this. Y o u can a ls o d o a s the lo c a ls d o an d u se a ro d an d reel o f f the ro c k s a t a h a r b o u r en tran ce o r o f f th e c lif fs . A n g lin g co n d itio n s are gen erally best from O cto ber to m id-January.

W h a t to Do

Football. T h e P o rtu g u e se are w ild a b o u t futebol, a s they ca ll it, a n d the co u n try h o ste d the E u ro p e a n F o o tb a ll C h a m p io n sh ip s in 2 0 0 4 . T h e b ig g est clu b s are fro m the tw o m a jo r c ities, L isb o n a n d O p o r to . B o th S C F are n se a n d D C L o u leta n o p la y a t the E sta d io d o A lg arv e in F a ro . Horse Riding. W h eth er y o u re lo o k in g fo r p o n y rid e s fo r ch ild ren , tre k s fo r the c o m p e te n t o r h a c k s fo r the in e x p e ri enced, the m ix e d terrain o f b e ach es, ro llin g hills an d w o o d s m a k e s rid in g in th e A lg a r v e a d e lig h t. M o s t o f th e h o rse s y o u ll en cou n ter are a t least p a r t L u sita n o , a su re-fo o ted P o r tu guese breed. R e co m m en d e d sc h o o ls include the Q u in ta do Lago Riding C e n tr e (tel: 2 8 9 - 3 9 6 0 9 9 ), a t Q u in ta d o L a g o n ear the R ia F o r m o sa N a tu r e P reserve, Q u in ta Penedo (in V ale F u z eiro s, n ear A lb u fe ira; tel: 2 8 2 - 3 3 2 4 6 6 ) an d C e n tr o H ip ico V a le de F e rro (M e x ilh o e ira G ra n d e betw een L a g o s an d P raia d a R o c h a; tel: 2 8 2 -9 6 8 4 4 4 ). A lso co n sid er Q u in ta

Bullfighting
T h e m ain d iffe ren ce b e tw e e n th e P o rtu g u e se and Spanish corrida is th a t in P ortugal th e bul! leaves th e ring b lo o d ie d b u t alive. D e a th d o e s n o t c o m e in th e a fterno o n, b u t th e fo llo w in g m o rn in g in th e slaughter house. T h e P o rtu g u e se v e rsio n is fu r th e r sanitised in th a t th e bull's h o rn s a re b lun te d t o re d u ce th e risk o f in ju ry by goring. If you w a n t th e colour; spe cta cle and strategy o f th e bullfight but w o u ld p re fe r n o t t o see th e c o u p d e grace, th e n th e P o rtu g u e se v e r sion m ay suit you. B e aw are, though, th a t th e re is still a lo t o f b lo o d , and th e w h o le e p iso d e m ay w e ll p ro v e d istastefu l.Th e bull is used as a p in cush ion fo r lo ng d arts, th e n ta u n te d and run t o th e ground. Bullfights have lo st p o p u la rity in re ce n t years and a re held a lm o st e n tire ly fo r th e b enefit o f c u rio u s to u rists.T h e o n ly r e s o r t w h ic h still h o sts regu lar b ull fights is A lb ufe ria , T h e season lasts fro m M a y t o S e p te m b e r and th e events ta ke p lace e v e ry Saturday.

Sports da G ill, C a r v o e ir o (on the N 1 2 5 ) a n d T iffan ys Riding C e n t r e , V ale G r ifo , A lm ad e n a (b e tw een S a g r e s an d L a g o s ; tel: 2 8 2 - 6 9 7 3 9 5 ). Tennis. T h e m o st p r e sti g io u s co m p lex is the academ y a t V a le do L o b o (tel: 2 8 9 3 5 7 8 5 0 ), w h ich h a s 1 4 allw eath er co u rts, includ in g six th a t are flo o d lit. C lo se by is the w ell-equipped V ilam o u ra W a lk e rs e n jo y th e view a t Fia Tennis C e n tr e (tel: 2 8 9 - 3 1 4 1 6 9 ), w h ich h a s 1 2 co u rts. T h e Jim S te w a rt Tennis A c a d e m y a t Q u in ta d o L a g o (tel: 2 8 9 - 3 9 8 8 4 8 ) h as w eekly c o a c h ing p r o g r a m m e s o n 1 0 h ard an d tw o synthetic g r a ss co u rts. T h e C a rv o e ir o P e rfo rm a n ce Tenn is Sch o o l (tel: 2 8 2 - 3 5 7 8 4 7 ) o n the o u tsk irts o f C a rv o e iro h as 14 co u rts a s w ell a s a p o o l an d fitness centre. H o te ls w ith a g o o d n u m ber o f co u rts include the A lfa M ar, P raia d a F a lsia , n ear O lh o s de A g u a (15 co u rts); H o tel A lvor P ra ia , a t A lv o r b each (seven co u rts); an d H o te l M o n te c h o ro , n ear A lb u feira (eigh t co u rts). In stru ctio n in the p le a sa n t su r r o u n d in g s o f the O c e a n C lu b a t L u z (five co u rts) is d e m a n d in g b u t rew ard in g . P o rtim o h as seven m u n icip al h ard co u rts a v a ila b le to g u e sts (tel: 2 8 2 - 4 1 8 7 8 0 fo r b o o k in g ). Walking. T h e beach es an d cliffs alo n g the c o a st are excellent fo r w alk in g , a s are the m o u n tain s o f the Serra d o M on ch iqu e. Serious hikers m igh t consider the new V ia A lg arvian a (The A l g arv e W ay) - o r a t lea st a se ctio n o f it. T h is ch allen gin g and often rem ote route run s fro m A lcou tim o n the Sp an ish b o rder to C a b o de S o V icente in the far w est (2 4 3 k m /1 5 0 m iles). A s yet the p a th is n o t fully w a y m a rk e d b u t y o u c an d o w n lo a d m a p s an d d etailed d escription s a t w w w .algarvew ay .com .

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W h a t to D o

SHOPPING
R e g io n a l h a n d ic r a ft s r a n g e fr o m c o p p e r w a r e a n d c o r k to w ick e rw o rk a n d w in e. T h e m o st fa m o u s item s are azulejos.

W hat to Buy
Brass, Bronze and Copper. C a n d le stic k s, p o ts a n d p a n s, oldfash ion ed kitchen scales, b o w ls an d trays c an be fou n d . Cataplanas (b ro n ze p re ssu r e -c o o k e r s u se d to m a k e th e n a tio n a l
dish ) m a k e d eligh tfu l d e c o ra tiv e o r fu n c tio n a l so u v en irs. Ceram ics, Pottery and Azulejos. P o r tu g a l is r e n o w n e d fo r its co lo u rfu l, han d -pain tC o lo u rfu l h an d -p ain ted p o tte r y fro m th e A lg a rv e

ed a n d g la z e d p o tte r y a n d tile s, a n d su c h ite m s are g e n e r a lly m u ch le ss e x p e n siv e in P o r tu g a l th a n a t h o m e . T h e r o a d s id e p o tte r ies o n th e N 1 2 5 in P o rc h e s are the b e st so u rce o f c e ra m ics in th e A lg a r v e . Y o u c a n b u y a sin g le blu e -an d -w h ite tile (azulejo), an a d d r e ss p la q u e fo r y o u r h o u se , o r a b atch to a sse m b le in to a p ic tu re w h en y o u g et h o m e. O r p u r c h a se an e n tire se t o f p la te s . W ith se v e ra l d a y s n otice so m e sh o p s w ill p a in t tile s to o r d e r if y o u h a v e a p a r tic u la r d e sig n in m in d o r they c a n co p y a p h o to g ra p h . B u t rem em b e r th a t ce ram ic s c a n be h e a v y a n d fra g ile to c a r r y h o m e ; e n q u ir e a b o u t

Shopping sh ip p in g ; so m e p o tteries w ill ta k e ca re o f it fo r y o u .

Cork. P o rtu g a l is the w o r ld s le a d in g p r o d u c e r o f co rk . Y o u ll fin d p la c e m a ts,

intricate sculp tures a n d other d esig n s - a n d its all a s light a s a feather.

Embroidery. E m b ro id ered
tablecloths, napkin s an d other item s are fo u n d th ro u g h o u t th e A lg a r v e , e s p e c ia lly a t street m a rk e ts, w here th ey re

C h a ra c te rfu l p o t t e r y fig u res

f o r sa le in M o n c ara p ac h o

lik e ly to be lite r a lly th r u s t u p o n y o u . H a g g lin g is a b so lu te ly a c c e p ta b le a t su ch p la c e s. L o o k a ls o fo r th e d e lic a te h a n d n e e d le w o r k o f th e isla n d o f M a d e ir a , ite m s t h a t a r e e x c e e d in g ly w e ll c r a f t e d b u t c o m p a r a tiv e ly in e x p e n siv e .

Knitwear. D e sp ite th e g en erally w a rm w eath e r a lo n g the A lgarve, th ick sw eaters, c a p s an d g lo v es, m o st o f w hich com e fr o m th e n o r th o f P o r tu g a l, a r e so m e o f th e r e g io n s few gen u in e b a r g a in s. S ta lls a t the su ita b ly w in d y ven u es o f F ia
a n d S a g r e s are su rp risin g ly g o o d v alu e. Leather. T h e r e w a s a tim e w h e n le a th e r g o o d s w ere a m a z in g ly c h e a p in P o rtu g a l, b u t p ric e s h av e risen c o n s id e r a b ly a lo n g w ith th e to u r ist in flu x a n d E u r o p e a n is a tio n . S till, it s p o s s ib le to fin d f a s h io n a b le , r e la tiv e ly in e x p e n siv e sh o e s a n d h a n d b a g s . P o r tim o is k n o w n fo r its se le c tio n o f s h o p s .

Rugs. A ttra c tiv e a n d ex celle n tly cra fte d h a n d -m a d e ru g s, m o stly fro m the A le n tejo re g io n (n orth o f the A lg arv e ), are
m a d e a s beautifu lly a s they h ave been fo r centuries. T h e nam e to lo o k fo r is A r r a io lo s, a ty p e o f c o lo u r fu l, ru stic -lo o k in g w o o l ru g n a m e d a fter a sm a ll to w n .

W h a t to D o

Wicker. B a g s, m a ts , fu r n itu r e , p la n t- h o ld e r s , g la ss- an d w in e-h o ld ers, tra y s - y o u n am e it, y o u re likely to fin d it. Wine. P o rtu g a ls w ine in d u stry p ro d u c e s n o t on ly excellent tab le w in es fro m reg io n s su ch a s the D o , D o u r o an d A len tejo , b u t leg en d ary p o r t w in e, w h ich c o m e s fro m the n orth . V in tages o f p o r t all the w a y b ac k b ey on d y o u r birth y ear can still be fo u n d in d u sty b o ttles, b u t they are ex p en siv e.

W here to Shop
M a n y sh o p s o n the A lg a rv e sto c k p o tte ry an d leath e r item s a m o n g the u su a l trin k ets an d so u v e n irs, b u t the m o st inter e stin g s p o t s fo r g e n u in e h a n d ic r a ft s o r lo c a l g o o d s are reg io n a l m a rk e ts. T h e se c o lo u rfu l a ffa ir s are a m ix o f ev e ry d ay w a r e s fo r lo c a l c o n su m p tio n , gen u in e lo c a l h a n d ic ra fts, le a th e r g o o d s a n d c lo th in g . U s u a lly h e ld o n c e o r tw ice a m o n th in the la rg e r re g io n a l ce n tres, they are p o p u la r w ith lo c a ls a n d to u r ists a lik e. A n oth er o p tio n is to g o directly to the a r tisa n s w o rk sh o p s. T h e se a re b e c o m in g in c re a sin g ly d iffic u lt to fin d , a s w h en the o ld c r a ftsm e n re tire , th e ir d e sc e n d a n ts a r e tu r n in g to to u r ism in ste a d o f th e tr a d itio n a l w a y s . L o u l a n d M o n ch iq u e are p r o b a b ly y o u r b e st bets. P o ttery a n d c e ra m ic s a r e fo u n d in a n d a r o u n d ev e ry r e so rt, b u t rou te N 1 2 5 alo n g the c o a st sells m o re ce ram ic s an d p o tte ry th a n a lm o s t a n y w h e re else in P o r tu g a l. T h e sm a ll to w n o f P orch es h a s a co u p le o f th e to p sh o p s in the c o u n try : O la r ia A lg a r v e (P o rc h e s P o tte r y ; tel: 2 8 2 - 3 5 2 8 5 8 ) , w h ich h a s re v iv e d a n d u p d a te d lo n g - fo r g o tte n M o o r is h sty les, an d C a s a A lg a rv e (tel: 2 8 2 - 3 5 2 6 8 2 ). Se v eral la rg e sh o p p in g m a lls h av e o p e n e d in th e la st few y e a rs a n d h a v e p r o v e d a b ig h it w ith th e P o r tu g u e se . T h e la rg e st are A lg a rv e Sh op p ing a t G u ia , n e a r A lb u fe ir a , an d F o ru m A lg a rv e a t F a r o , b o th o ffe r in g o v e r 1 0 0 s h o p s , a s w ell a s re sta u r a n ts, c in e m as a n d crch es.

E n t e r t a in m e n t

89

ENTERTAINMENT
W hile S p a in s so u th ern c o a st is a m ag n et fo r o ste n tatio u s jetse tters w h o p a r ty all n ig h t, so p h istic a te d n igh tlife h a s never really sp r o u te d in the A lg a rv e . M o s t even in g en tertain m en t is eith er h o te l-b a se d o r set u p sp e cific ally fo r to u rists in b a rs a n d d isc o s. B u t in q u iete r sp o ts o f f th e b e aten to u r ist tra c k an d in less c o m m e rc ia lise d to w n s, y o u re m o re likely to fin d lo c a ls o u t fo r a d rin k . P o p u la r r e s o r ts su c h a s A lb u fe ir a a n d P r a ia d a R o c h a th r o b n ig h tly to a d isc o b e a t, w h ile v isito r s in sm a lle r an d new er reso rts m ay h ave to rely o n th eir h otel fo r an even in gs en tertain m en t. L a g o s is on e o f th e few r e so r ts w ith a g o o d se le c tio n o f lo w -k e y b a r s a n d liv e-m u sic v en u e s. T h e S t r ip in th e m o d e m se ctio n o f A lb u fe ira a n d the tou rist village o f M on tech oro a b o u n d w ith all-nigh t d rin k in g a n d d a n c in g o p p o r tu n i ties - fe w o f th em c la s sy fo r su n -sco rch ed to u rists. C a s in o s o p e r a te a t P ra ia d a R o c h a , V ila m o u r a an d M o n te G o r d o . T h e y h av e r e sta u ra n ts w ith flo o r sh o w s (o p e n to fa m ilie s), w h ile g a m b lin g ta k e s p la c e in a se p a ra te g a m in g ro o m , from m id -a fte rn o o n to w ell in to th e fo llo w in g m o rn in g . Y o u m u st be 18 o r over to gam ble a n d w ill n eed y o u r p a s s p o r t
An even in g o u t in L ago s

W h a t to D o or identity ca rd . D ress is n o t fo rm al bu t sh o u ld be reaso n ab ly sm a rt. G a m e s in clu d e ro u le tte , b la c k ja c k , b a c c a r a t a n d the P o rtu g u e se g a m e o f F ren ch b a n k . T h e C a s in o in P ra ia d a R och a (Avenida T o m s C ab reira; tel: 2 8 2 -4 1 5 9 9 9 ), open daily until 4 a m , is p articu larly p opu lar. A n oth er fav o u rite attractio n is the fado nigh t, a t w h ich d is tinctive P o rtu g u ese fo lk m u sic is p erfo rm ed . Y o u ll fin d them a t b a rs an d h otels. T h e q u ality o f p erfo rm an c es is unlikely to rival the clu b s in L is b o n s a tm o sp h e ric bairros, b u t y ou can still g et a ta ste fo r th is q u in te sse n tia lly P o rtu g u e se m u sical expression. There are tw o kinds o f fado. First, the m elancholic, n o stalgia-tin ged variety, w h ose origin s are unclear, w hich m ay h ave d ev elo ped a s a fo rm o f m ou rn in g fo r m en lo st a t sea or m ay be a relic o f the d a y s o f slavery - a k in d o f Ib erian blues. T h e oth er fado is m u ch m o re u p b e at, an d , w hile lack in g the em o tio n a l p o w e r o f the form er, a t least gives the au d ien ce a ch an ce to w rin g o u t th eir h a n d k e rc h ie fs. T y p ically a fado

h ill.......

....in........ mm

Folklore show s are regularly staged in th e large re s o rt hotels th rou g h o u t th e Algarve. G irls w e a r black felt hats o v e r bright scarves, colou rfu l blous es and a prons o v e r skirts w ith hoops, and high-button shoes o v e r w hite knitted stockings.The swift, w hirling dances m ay also reveal traditional long u n de rw e ar w o rn in spite o f th e w a rm climate. M e n are dressed m o re soberly, w ith trousers, w aistcoats, cu m m e rb u nd s and felt hats, m ostly in b la ck Singers are a ccom panied by accordions, m o u th organs and triangles. T h e re are basically t w o kinds o f dances: th e corridinho, o r jig, w h ich are w h irlin g d ances w ith stam p ing feet, and th e bailes de roda, w h ich are reels o r sq uare dances. The F o n te P e q u e n a re sta u ra n t in A lt e h o sts a lively fo lk lo re

eve n in g m o s t nights. L o o k in lo cal m ag azines fo r deta ils o f a d d itio n a l fo lk lo re events.

A trad itio n al fado tr o u p e

tro u p e co n sists o f a w o m a n d re ssed in b lack a c c o m p an ie d by a co u p le o f m en p la y in g ac o u stic g u itars.

C H ILD R EN S ALGARVE
T h e b e ach es o f the A lg arv e, w ith lo n g , sandy, gen tly shelvin g b e a ch e s fo r sm a ll ch ild ren , a n d sm a ll ro c k y co v e s id e a l fo r o ld er ch ildren to ex p lo re , are p erfe ct fo r fam ily h o lid ay s. Pay atten tion to the beach w arn in g fla g s, h ow ever. G reen m ean s the se a is ca lm an d a life g u ard is o n d u ty ; green p lu s a ch eck ered fla g m ean s th a t the lifegu ard is n o t on du ty; yellow urges c a u tio n ; red m ea n s d a n g er an d w a rn s b ath ers to sta y ash o re. W ater p a rk s are the m o st p o p u la r ch oice fo r children aw ay fro m the beach . T h ere are several scattered acro ss the Algarve: the best are Slide & Splash ( N 1 2 5 V ale de D eu s, n ear L a g o a tel: 2 8 2 -3 4 1 6 8 5 ) and Aqualand (N 1 2 5 , n ear A lcantarilha; tel: 2 8 2 - 3 2 2 8 2 8 ). B o th o ffe r a b u s service all d a y fro m m an y

92

W h a t to Do points alon g the A lgarve. A tlan tic P ark (Q u atro E strad as, near Q u arteira; tel: 2 8 9 -3 9 7 2 8 2 ) h as a m ou ntain b ack d ro p an d fea tures a d aily high-diving show . Its neighbour, A q u asho w (tel: 2 8 9 - 3 8 9 3 9 6 ), h a s few er a q u atic thrills, b u t bo th children an d ad u lts get the chan ce to drive scaled -d ow n F o rm u la 1 cars on a m ini racin g circuit (ad ults need drivin g licences). K r a z y W o rld (a lo n g th e A lg o z -M e ssin e s r o a d , n o r th o f A lb u fe ira ; tel: 2 8 2 - 5 7 4 1 3 4 ) h a s a n a n im a l fa rm , m in i-zo o a n d cra z y g o lf. M o n tech o ro P a rk h a s an 1 8 -h o le m in i-g o lf c o u rse , a n O ly m p ic-size sw im m in g p o o l a n d m a n y o th e r f a cilities. O th er attra ctio n s include Z o o m a rin e ( N 1 2 5 a t G u ia, n e a r A lb u fe ir a ; tel: 2 8 9 - 5 6 0 3 0 1 ; w w w .z o o m a r in e .c o m ), w hich co m b in es p e rfo rm in g d o lp h in s an d se a lion s w ith fa ir g ro u n d rides an d sw im m in g p o o ls , an d Lagos Z o o (betw een B a r o de S. T o o a n d B e n sa frim ), w ith a n im a ls a n d e x o tic b ird s set in la n d sc a p e d g a rd e n s. F or old er children, sp o rts su ch a s tennis, h orse riding, w in d su rfin g a n d even g o lf m a y p ro v e to be ex cellen t d iv ersio n s. S e v e r a l h o te ls in th e A lg a r v e a r e p o p u la r w ith fa m ilie s a n d w ell e q u ip p e d fo r e n te rtain in g ch ild ren . M o s t h o te ls in th e P e sta n a c h a in , f o r e x
T h e A lg a rv e s b e a c h e s a re p e rfe c t fo r sim p le s e a s id e fun

a m p le , h av e c o m p re h e n siv e K id s C lu b p r o g r a m m e s (w ith o u td o o r g a m e s, r e a d in g, treasu re h u n ts, etc). P er h a p s th e b e st se t u p o f a ll is th e h u g e p la y g r o u n d an d d a y sc h o o l a t the u p m a rk e t S h e ra to n A lg a rv e o n P raia d a F a l sia . T h e h o tel is on e o f th e r e g io n s m o s t lu x u r io u s , b u t in th is c a s e th e ch ild ren g e t a s m u ch o u t o f it a s th e p a r e n ts.

C a le n d a r of Events
In com parison to the flamboyant fiestas o f neighbouring Spain, Portu gals festivals are low-key. But each town celebrates at least once a year on its saints day, so check at the tourist information office when you arrive fo r forthcom ing events (a monthly events leaflet and other pub lications with listings are available).

February Lisbon: Fado Festival at various sites in the city. February-M arch Loul: Carnaval - parades and processions, spectac
ular flower-covered floats.

March Portugal O pen - golf. M arch-April Holy W eek. Palm Sunday, G o o d Friday and Easter Day services and processions.

April Loul: Me Soberana - Pilgrimage to N o ssa Senhora da Piedade. May Portim o:Algarve International Film Festival. May-June Various locations:Algarve International Music Festival - free
classical con certs by local and international musicians, plus other per forming arts, in som e o f the regions oldest churches; Alte: May Day festivities - folk dancing and markets; Esti: Festa da Pinha (Pine Festival) - wine and beer, barbecued chicken, dancers, accordianists and guitarists; Salir: Festa da Espiga - procession followed by fireworks and folk dancing.

July Silves Castle: International Beer Festival; Loul: International Jazz

Festival; Faro: Senhora do C arm o - festivities and fair.

August Olho: Shellfish Festival; Pinhal do Forte Novo, Q uarteira: Sar

dine Festival; C astro Marim: Senhora d os Mrtires - festivities and fair.

Septem ber Silves: H andicrafts Fair; Albufeira: Fisherm en's festivals;

throughout Algarve: National Folklore Festival - folk music and dance.

October Throughout Algarve: religious and trade fairs, including Feira

de Outubro at Monchique (famous for its market) and the Feira de Santa Iria at Faro, a lively traditional event lasting several days; various loca tions: International Algarve C a r Rally.

November Vilamoura:TAP Air Portugal Open G olf Championships. Decem ber Igreja do Carmo,Tavira: Christm as choral concert.

94

EATING O U T
o st A lg a rv e c o o k in g is a s u n affe c te d a s a fish e rm a n s b a r b e c u e : g rille d o r frie d fis h , c h ic k e n a n d s te a k s . W h ich is n o t to sa y the P o rtu g u e se are n o t in ven tive; y o u ll sa m p le c o m b in a tio n s su ch a s cla m s a n d p o r k , so le a n d b a n a n a s, o r p o r k a n d fig s.

Y o u ll a ls o fin d th e sp ic y ta s t e o f P o r t u g a ls fo r m e r c o lo n ie s h a s c r e p t in to th e n a tio n a l c u isin e . C h ic k e n piri-

piri (m a d e fro m A n g o la n p e p p e rs) is a h o t a n d very p o p u

la r d ish in the A lg a rv e . C u rrie s o c c a sio n a lly a p p e a r o n the m en u , o rig in a tin g fro m th e fo rm e r co lo n y o f G o a (in so u th ern In d ia) o r A fric a . B u t m o stly , a lo n g th e 1 6 0 k m (1 0 0 - m ile ) c o a s t , y o u ll e n jo y a n e x c e lle n t r a n g e o f fre sh fish a n d s e a f o o d . T h e se ite m s a r e n o lo n g e r c h e a p , a s m u ch o f it is n o w b e in g b ro u g h t in fro m d ista n t w a te rs. T h e h u m b le b u t n o b le P o r tu g u e se sa r d in e is a n e x c e p tio n , a n d w ith a h u n k o f lo c a l ru stic b re a d a n d a b o ttle o f h o u se w in e, y o u c a n still fe a st w ell o n a sm a ll b u d g e t.

Taking cover
Nearly every restauran t in Portugal serv e s a couvert (literally, cover) - an a ss o r t m ent o f appetisers, including bread and butter, that ap pear to be free but are usu ally not.Your bill will include a charge o f anywhere from 2 to 8 fo r the items. Theoretically, if you d o n t touch them, you shouldnt be charged for them.

Meal Times
B reakfast (pequeno almoo) is u su ally eate n an y tim e up until a b o u t 1 0am . Lun ch (al moo) is served fro m sh ortly after n oon until 2 .3 0 p m , and d in n e r (jantar) r u n s fro m 7 .3 0 to 1 0 p m (o r la te r in a

casa de fado). S n a c k s b e
tw een m e a ls are u su a lly tak e n a t a pastelaria (p astry a n d cak e sh o p ), salo de ch

(te a s h o p ), o r w h a t th e P o r tu g u e se ca ll a sn a c k b a r a sta n d - u p c o u n te r se llin g san d w ich es, sa v o u ry p astries an d sw eets. B e c a u se lu n ch a n d d in n er ten d to be m a jo r even ts, you m a y p re fe r th e k in d o f light b r e a k fa s t th e P o r tu g u e se e a t: c o ffe e , t o a s t o r r o lls, b u tte r a n d ja m . H o te ls u s u ally p ro v id e la rg e A m erican sty le b u ffe ts.

Starters
A s so o n a s y ou sit d o w n you w ill be se rv ed a p re -sta rte r sn a c k th a t m ay c o n sist o f b read , butter an d a c o m b in a tion o f o liv es, sa rd in e p a ste
Freshly cau g h t fish

a n d cream ch eese (th is isn t co m p lim en tary an d w ill be on y o u r bill a s a co ver charge). H e a r ty sta r te r s a lw a y s in c lu d e a c h o ic e o f s o u p s - so m e v e g e ta b le s o u p s , th ick e n e d w ith p o ta t o e s , c a n be a lm o st a m e a l in th em selv es. F ish so u p is v a r ia b le b u t gaspacho, the P o rtu g u e se v e r sio n o f th e c o ld A n d a lu s ia n to m a to - b a s e d so u p , is u su a lly g o o d . F a n s o f sm o k e d f o o d h av e tw o tre a ts in sto re. T h e first is sm o k e d h a m (presunto fumado) - the b e st co m in g fro m C h a v e s, the n o rth e rn m o st p ro v in ce o f P o rtu g a l (alth o u gh M on ch iqu e h am is also highly regarded). T h e second is sm oked sw o r d fish (espadarte fum ado), w h ich is a q u ite sim ilar to sm o k e d sa lm o n b u t h a s a g rain ie r te x tu re a n d is less sw eet. M o s t restau ran ts a lso h ave a ran ge o f in tern ation al starters.

C a tap la na - a regio n al dish

Fish and Seafood

B esid es sa rd in e s, tu n a is the to p fish a lo n g the A lg arv e. It is u su a lly se rv ed a s a ste a k , w ith a lm o n d s, o r in a th ick stew (estufado). P ra w n s, c r a b s , lo b ste rs a n d fresh fish are alw a y s their ow n b e st a d v ertisem e n t, an d y o u w ill see them all o v er the A lg arv e eith er refrig erated in a w in d o w d isp la y or, in the c a se o f la rg e sh e llfish , c o u n tin g th eir d a y s in an a q u a riu m w a itin g fo r y o u r se lectio n . M o s t sh ellfish a n d so m e fish are so ld o n a p rice-p e r-k ilo g ram b a sis. L o b s t e r a n d fish p r ic e d o n a w e ig h t b a s i s a r e o fte n b r o u g h t to th e ta b le fo r a p rev iew . U n le ss y o u h a p p e n to be o n a n e x p e n s e a c c o u n t, th is is th e m o m e n t to a s k th e e x a c t c o st. L a r g e sh e llfish c a n be v ery e x p e n siv e , s o m a k e su re y o u g e t a p r o p e r a n sw e r to a v o id p r o b le m s w h en the b ill a r r iv e s . T h e r e a r e tw o k in d s o f lo b s t e r : a lavagante (w ith la r g e f r o n t c la w s ) a n d th e lagostim o r lagosta (the sp in y lo b ste r o r c r a y fis h , w ith o u t c la w s ). S im ila rly , th ere

Fish and Seafood a r e tw o k in d s o f c r a b : th e sapateira is a b ig A tla n tic ty p e, th e santola is a sp id e r c r a b . L o o k o u t fo r th e fo llo w in g re g io n a l s e a fo o d dish es:

A orda de marisco. A sp icy , g a r lic - fla v o u r e d b r e a d an d se a fo o d so u p b a k e d in a c a sse ro le , w ith r a w eg g s fo ld ed into th e m ix tu re a t the ta b le (a lso se rv ed a s a starte r). Amijoas bulho pato. C la m s, fried o r ste am ed w ith g a r
lic a n d co rian d er.

Arroz de marisco. S e a fo o d r iso tto . Bife de Atum. A b e e fy fillet o f tu n a ste a k , m a r in a te d in

w ine o r vinegar, sa lt, g a rlic an d b ay leaves, then c o o k e d w ith o n io n a n d p e r h a p s b a c o n . C aldeirada de peixe. T h e A lg a r v e v e r sio n o f th e F ren ch b o u illa b a isse , a rich , fillin g m ix e d fish ste w in c lu d in g p o t a to e s, o n io n s, to m a to e s, p e p p e rs, w in e an d sp ic es. Cataplana. T h e re g io n s m o st in d iv id u al d ish , n am ed after the c o p p e r p re ssu re -c o o k e r in w h ich it is p re p are d . T h e d ish v aries, b u t it is b a sica lly a c o m b in a tio n o f se a fo o d , w h ich a l w a y s in c lu d e s c la m s (am ijoas), p lu s sa la m i-sty le s a u s a g e , h a m , o n io n , g a rlic , p a p r ik a , ch illi, p a rsle y a n d w h ite w ine.

Choquinbos con tinta. C u ttle fish se rv ed in th eir o w n ink.

Bacalhau
C o d , o r bacalhau, is p re tty m u ch th e na tional dish o f P o rtu g a l.T h e P o r tu g u e se have b e e n d ry in g and salting c o d sin ce t h e ir first sea voyages t o N e w fo u n d la n d in 15 0 1. Strangely, eve n th o u g h fresh fish is available o n t h e ir o w n d o o rste p , th e y still p re fe r t o ship in th is relative ly e x p e n sive, p re se rv e d fish. P re se rv in g gives it a fu lle r fla v ou r (though this is n o t alw ays a p p a re n t w h e n it is ca s se ro le d w ith m a n y o t h e r ing red ients). T h e r e a re d o ze n s o f re cip e s f o r bacalhau, th e m o s t c o m m o n o n th e A lg a rv e being bras - frie d w ith o n io n s and p o ta to es, th e n baked w ith a to p p in g o f b e ate n eggs.

98

Eating O u t

Espadarte. S w o rd fish , o ften a g rilled fillet ste ak . O n so m e

m en u s its listed a s peixe agulha. D o n t co n fu se it w ith peixe espada, a lo n g thin fish , u su ally tra n sla te d a s sc a b b a rd fish .

Salada de polvo. O c to p u s sa la d . Sardinhas. T h e b e st-v a lu e fish d ish y o u ll e n jo y o n th e

A lg a rv e ; p lu m p , juicy, c risp ly g rille d a n d se rv ed w ith b o iled p o tato es. N o te th at fresh sard in es are only availab le fro m Ju n e to O ctober, th ou gh a t P o rtim o y ou w ill get th em year-round.

Meat and Poultry

Cabrito assado (no forno). B a k e d k id ; n o t a c o m m o n d ish , bu t w o rth se ek in g o u t. Cabrito estufado is k id ste w ed w ith to m a to e s a n d v eg etab les.
Fresh m eat at the Loul m arket

Carne de porco com ami joas. A n im p r o b a b le b u t e x

cellent c o m b in a tio n o f clam s a n d r o a st p o r k , p r o b a b ly in v e n te d in th e A le n te jo , b u t a d o p te d by th e A lg arv e. Favas A lgarvia. P o rk a n d b r o a d b e an stew. Feijoada. A h earty B ra z il ia n d ish c o n sistin g o f d rie d b e a n s a n d c a b b a g e ste w e d w ith p o r k , s a u s a g e , b a c o n a n d w h ate v e r else o f the p ig is a t h a n d (often the feet).

Frango piri-piri. W h a t
you m o s t n ee d to know a b o u t a piri-piri p r e p a r a tio n is th a t it s h o t. C h ic k e n

(frango), u su a lly , is c o o k e d
or b a s te d w ith tin y red ch illi p e p p e r s fr o m A n g o la

T a b le W in e s

( y o u ll see th em str u n g a s n ec k la c es in the m a rk et). G alinha cerejada. R o a s t ch icken se rv ed w ith sm o k e d m e a ts a n d rice.

Leito. R o a s t su ckling pig, se rv ed h o t o r co ld . B ife/Steak Portuguesa.

S te a k frie d w ith g a r lic , to p p e d w ith h a m a n d a fried e g g , a n d se rv e d in a c a s s e r o le d ish s u r r o u n d e d by sa u t e d p o ta to e s.

Dessert
T h e A lg a r v e , w ith a r e a d y su p p ly o f a lm o n d s a n d fig s,

Fruits abound in the gentle Algarvian climate

e x c e ls a t sw ee t d e sse rts. B o th are e m p lo y e d in a v arie ty o f c a k e s a n d ta r ts , in c lu d in g tarte de am ndoa, a lm o n d ta rt. O th e r sw e e ts w o r th try in g are arroz doce, rice p u d d in g to p p e d w ith c in n a m o n ; a n d pudim flan, crm e caram el. P o rtu g u ese ch eese (queijo) is a lso an excellen t d essert. T h e rich est is serra da estrela, cu red e w e s m ilk ch eese fro m the coun try s h ighest m o u n tain s. It tak e s three h ou rs to m ak e each sm a ll cheese by h a n d a n d it is on ly av ailab le fro m D ecem b er to A pril. O u tside o f this y o u ll have to m ake d o w ith tipo serra, a harder, facto ry -m a d e cheese. O th er ch eeses in clude flamen go (sim ilar to E d am ) a n d saloio, a cream y c o ttag e cheese.

Table Wines
P o rtu g u e se w in e s, w h ile n o t a s w ell k n o w n a s th o se fro m S p a in a n d F ra n c e , a re u n ifo rm ly g o o d , a n d se v eral re g io n s p ro d u c e tru ly ex celle n t w in es. Y o u n eed o n ly tell the w aiter tinto (red) o r branco (w hite) an d y o u c a n t g o w ro n g .

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Eating O u t

Vinho verde (green w in e), p r o d u c e d in n o rth w e st P o rtu

g a l, is a y o u n g w h ite w in e, slig h tly fizzy, lig h t a n d d e lig h t ful. A lesser-k n o w n ty p e is red w in e fro m th e sa m e re g io n , b e a rin g th e se em in g ly o x y m o r o n ic n am e vinho verde tinto (re d g re e n w in e ). B o th o f th e se w in e s sh o u ld be se rv ed chilled, a s sh o u ld P o rtu g u ese ro s, w h ich is a lso sligh tly b u b bly a n d m a y be eith er sw eet o r very dry. Vinhos maduros are m a tu re , o r a g e d , w in es. Vinho espumante is P o rtu g u e se sp a r k lin g w in e, p a c k a g e d in a C h a m p a g n e -sh a p e d b o ttle. M o s t are sw ee t b u t y o u can a lso fin d so m e relativ ely d ry v e rsio n s. S e v e ra l o f th e b e st w in e -p r o d u c in g r e g io n s h av e n a m e s w h o se u se is c o n tr o lle d b y la w (regio dem arcada). T h e D o a n d D o u r o in th e n o rth o f P o rtu g a l p r o d u c e v ig o r o u s r e d s a n d f la v o u r s o m e w h ite s. W in e s f r o m th e A le n te jo a re a ls o h igh ly r e g a rd e d . O f th e lo c a l w in e s, y o u a r e m o st Vineyard near CacelaV elha

Coffee and Tea likely to see th e L a g o a lab el, p a c k in g m o r e o f a p u n ch th a n a v e ra g e w ine. Portuguese beers are good and refreshing. Light or dark, they are served chilled, bottled or from the tap. O ne of the best and m ost C0mm0n is Sagres.

1 i 0

Other Alcoholic Drinks

T h e tw o m o s t c e le b r a te d P o rtu g u e se w in e s, p o r t a n d M a d e ir a , are m o stly k n o w n

a s d essert w in es, b u t they m ay a lso be sip p e d a s aperitifs. T h e b efo re-d in n er v a rieties are d ry o r e x tra dry w h ite p o r t, an d th e d ry M a d e ir a s , Sercial a n d Verdelbo. T h e se sh o u ld be se rv e d slig h tly ch ille d . A fte r din n er, sip o n e o f the fa m o u s ru b y o r ta w n y p o r ts (a g e d taw n y s are e sp ecially g o o d ) o r a M a d e ir a d e sse rt w in e, su ch a s B oal o r M alvasia (M alm se y ). T w o lo c a l w in es th a t m a k e ex celle n t a p eritifs are Algar Seco a n d A fonso III. R e m in isc e n t o f sh erry , b o th c o m e fro m L a g o a a n d are se rv ed ch illed. L o c a l a fte r-d in n e r s p e c ia litie s in c lu d e aguardente de medronho, a b r a n d y d istille d fro m the fru it o f the a r b u tu s tree. B le n d e d w ith h on ey , its c a lle d medronheira de mel. E q u a lly p o w e rfu l is bagao, o r bagaceira, a firew ate r m ad e fro m g ra p e resid u e in the sam e w a y a s the Fren ch m a k e marc a n d the Ita lia n s grappa.

Coffee and Tea

W h en th ey w a n t a c o ffe e , m o s t P o r tu g u e se o r d e r a bica, w h ic h is a s m a ll e s p r e s s o . I f t h a t s a little t o o s m a ll fo r y o u , o rd e r a duplo, a d o u b le . T ak e on e bica, a d d w ater, an d y o u h av e a carioca; a few d r o p s o f m ilk tr a n s fo r m s it in to a garoto. A w h ite co ffe e in a caf is a galo, se rv ed in a tall g la ss. In a re sta u r a n t y o u w o u ld o rd e r a caf com leite. T e a (ch) h as been d ru n k in P o rtu g a l a s lo n g a s it h as been k n o w n to the W estern w o rld .

102

Eating O u t

To HelpYo u Order ...

C o u ld w e h ave a ta b le? D o y o u h ave a set-p rice m en u ? Id like a /a n /so m e ... beer the bill b re a d b u tter d essert fish fru it ice crea m m ea t m enu m ilk u m a c e rv e ja a co n ta po m a n teig a so b re m e sa p eixe fru ta gelado c a rn e a c a rta leite Q u e re m o s u m a m esa. T e m u m a e m e n ta tu rstica ? Q u e ria ... m in e ral w ater gua m in era i guard anap o n a p k in sa la d sa lt san d w ic h so u p su g a r tea v e g e ta b le s w in e w in e list salad a sal san d u ch e sopa acar ch leg u m es vinho ca rta de vinhos

... and Read the Menu

alho am eijo a s a rro z assado bacalhau besugo d ob rad a d o u rad a feijes frito g am b as lagosta lenguado g a rlic b a b y clam s rice r o a st c o d fish se a b rea m tripe se a b a ss beans fried praw n s sp in y lo b ste r so le lom bo lulas m a risco s m e x ilh es o stra s ovo p e sca d a p e sca d in h a polvos queijo s a lm o n e te tr u ta v ite la fillet sq u id sh ellfish m u sse ls o y sters egg h ak e w h itin g b a b y o c to p u s ch eese red m u llet tro u t veal

103

HANDY TRAVEL TIPS

An A - Z Summary of Practical Information

A B

Accommodation . , 104 A ir p o r t ....................... 104 Bicycle Hire ............. 105 ; Budgeting for Y o u rT rip ............... 105

H o lid a ys..................... 118

L M

Language ..................118 M a p s ............................ 119 Media ..........................119 Money .......................120

Cam ping..................... 107 C ar H ir e .................... 07 | C lim a te ....................... 108 Clothing ..................... 109 Crim e and Safety . 109 Customs and Entry Requirements . . 1 10

O Opening Hours . . . 121

Police .......................... 121 Post Offices .............122 Public Transport . . 122

R Religion....................... 124 S S m o kin g .................... 124 T Telephone ............... 124 Tim e Z o n e s .............125 T ip p in g ....................... 125 T o ile ts ..........................125 Tourist Information . . . . 125 Travellers with Disabilities.............126 W Websites and Internet Cafs . . 126 Weights and Measures .............127 Y Youth Hostels . . . . 127

D E

Driving ....................... 1 10 Electricity .................. 1 13 Embassies and C o n su lates.......... 1 13 Emergencies .......... 1 14

Gay and Lesbian Travellers ............. Getting to the Algarve .................. 1 15 Guides and Tours . 1 16 14

Health and Medical Care . . . 1 16

Travel Tips

A C C O M M O D A T IO N
(see also CAMPING,YOUTH HOSTELS and RECOMMENDED HOTELS)

Besides hotels, w hich range in an official category from 1 to 5 stars (not directly related to price), y o u ll find apartbotels (one- or twobedroom with kitchenette, occasionally called aldeamentos) as well as a selection o f accom m od ation variously categorised by overlap ping and confusing nam es. A sm all, basic guest house is labelled a penso or residencial (pension); quinta an d estalagem refer to an inn o r rural estate, and albergaria is generally a 4 -5 star inn. A pou sada is a governm ent-ow ned (but n ow privately m an aged ) hotel, often but not alw ays in an historic building. There are three in the A lgarve - in Sagres, Sao Brs de A lportel and Tavira - and another to be opened in the Palace o f E sti in 2 0 0 9 . M an y to u r o p erato rs b o o k b lock s a t large, m odern (and often undistinguished) hotels on or near beaches. If you w ish to be on the beach, m ake sure th at w hat is described a s a sea view is not one th at requires bin oculars to see the distan t ocean.
Id like a sin g le /d o u b le ro o m . w ith b a th /sh o w e r W h a ts th e r a t e p e r night?

Q u e ria u m q u a rto sim ples/duplo. c o m banho/chuveiro Q u a l o p re o p o r noite?

A I R P O R T (aeroporto)

F aro In tern ation al A irp o rt (w w w .an a.p t), serving the A lgarve, is 7km (4 miles) from F aro , the regional capital. Its ju st a 10-m inute taxi ride to F aro, an d ab o u t h alf an hou r by car to A lbufeira. Buses leave regularly for F aro s Eva bus term inal, departure point for buses serving destinations throughout the Algarve. T axi or m inibus tran s fers from the airp ort can be b o ok ed a t reason ab le rates via www.

B u d g e t in g f o r Y o u r T rip

fa ro a irp o rttra n sfe r.c o m (sam ple co st fo r 1 - 4 p assen g ers to A l bufeira, one way, 3 2 ). You can pay online or on arrival a t the air p o rt. A irp o rt facilities include car-hire agen cies, a to u rist office, ban k, A T M and sh ops. A irport Inform ation, tel: 2 8 9 -8 0 0 80 0 (arrival and departure tim es, tel: 2 8 9 -8 0 0 801). TAP Air Portugal reservations, tel: 707-2 0 5 7 0 0 ; w w w .flytap.com .
W h e r e can I g e t a tax i? P le ase ta k e t h e se bag s.

O n d e posso e n c o n tra r u m taxi? L e v e -m e a baggagem , p o r favor.

____________________ B _________________
B I C Y C L E H IR E (aluguer de bicicleta)

M o st resort hotels have bicycles for hire. If yours does not, the m ajor reso rts all have sc o o ter an d bike rental sh op s. A m on g th ose are Zebra Safari (Areias de S. Jo o , Albuferia; tel: 289-583 300), M ourabike in V ilam oura (tel: 9 1 -7 2 7 0 8 01) and M otorid e in L ag o s (Rua Jo s A fonso, 2 3 ; tel: 28 2 -7 6 1 720). Expect to pay from 10 per day.
B U D G E T IN G F O R Y O U R T R IP

The season when you go will have much to do with the cost o f your trip. H otel rates rise astonishingly during the sum m er m onths. A ccom m odation. H otels at the top levels are co m parab le to large E u ropean cities. In high sum m er season (Ju ly -A u gu st especially), hotel prices are exorb itan t - often double w h at they cost in off-season. O utside high season , m any hotels at the tw o-, three- an d fourstar ratings are excellent value. In high season , a double room with bath per n igh t in a 3 -star h otel av erag es 1 0 0 - 4 0 ; 4 -sta r hotel, 1 5 0 - 2 0 0 ; 5-star hotel, 2 5 0 -5 0 0 . Pousadas generally range from 1 4 0 -2 0 0 for a double room .

Travel Tips

Meals. Even top-rated restau ran ts m ay be surprisin gly afford able com pared to m ost E uropean cities. Portuguese w ines are quite good and very attractively priced, even in fine restaurants. A three-course m eal with wine in a reason ab le establishm ent averages ab o u t 3 0 4 0 per person. M o st hotels offer half- and full-b oard p lan s. C on ti nental or full-buffet b reak fast is nearly alw ays included in the price o f hotels. Local transport. Buses and tax is are reasonably priced. L ocal buses are less than 2 ; a ta x i from F aro airp ort to F aro centre (4k m /2/2 miles) is 1 0 - 1 2 plus lu ggage (a supplem ent o f 2 0 percent is levied on w eekends, public h olidays and betw een 10pm and 6am ). T ax is can be hired for d ay trip s for set fees; check with the local tourist office for a list o f trips. C a r hire. Its a g o o d idea to hire a car in order to allow m axim u m flexibility, but be sure to budget for the cost of petrol, which is co st ly, as in m ost o f E urope. Econom y car hire is cheaper than in m ost parts o f E u rope; expect it to run betw een 2 0 and 5 0 per day (in clu d ing co llisio n insu rance an d tax es). Y ou m ay find even better bargains a t local firm s. Organized excursions. T h ese co st 1 5 - 2 5 for a h alf day, 3 5 -5 0 for a w hole day, including lunch. Activities. It costs abo ut 9 0 -1 6 0 for golf for an 18-hole cham pion ship course (or 5 0 - 9 0 for 9 holes); 7 0 - 8 0 per day for big-game

fishing (spectators 5 0 ); horse riding, 2 0 - 4 0 per hour; and tennis

8 - 1 4 per hour per court. Instruction for m ost sports ranges from 2 5 ^ - 0 per hour. Nightlife and entertainm ent. C osts vary widely. E xpect cover fees a t d iscos to range from 8 - 2 0 , w hich usually includes first drink;

C ar Hire

107

casin o entran ce is 1 0 . E ntrance to w ate rp ark s gen erally co sts aroun d 2 0 for adults and 15 for children.

c
C A M P I N G (campismo)

C am p sites are categorised from 1 -4 stars. Public sites are open to all paying cam pers; private sites, m arked with the letter P, are only open to m em bers o f the cam psite operator, the Portuguese C am p ing Federation or holders o f a C am p in g C arnet. M an y o f the sites are w ithin easy reach o f the beach. They ran ge from very ch eap, basic g ro u n d s to v a st recreation al centres w ith restau ran ts, p o o ls and sp orts facilities. C a m p in g on b e ach es, or indeed an yw h ere o u tsid e recogn ised sites, is illegal. D etails on all A lgarve cam psites are availab le from to u rist in fo rm atio n o ffice s, or visit w w w .ro teiro -cam p ista.p t for inform ation and prices.
Is t h e r e a c a m p site n e a r h e re? H alg um p arq u e de

ca m p is m o p o r aqui p erto?
May w e c a m p h e re ? W e have a carav an (tra ile r).

Po d e m o s a c a m p a r aqui? T e m o s u m a ca ra va n a .

C A R H IR E (de aluguer; see also DRIVING)

C ars can be picked up at the m ain airports w here the m ajor car-hire co m pan ies have their outlets. H ow ever it is norm ally cheaper to re serve a car in advance. You m ust be at least 21 and have held a valid n ation al (or inter national) driving licence for a t least one year. Rental com panies will accept your hom e country n ation al drivers licence. Third-party in surance is included in the basic charge but a collision dam age w aiv er (CDW ) and personal accident policy m ay be added. You will need

Travel Tips

to present a p assp o rt or ID , a recognised credit card or a significant cash d eposit w hen booking. A valu e-ad d ed ta x (IVA) is ad d ed to the to tal ch arge, bu t w ill have been included if you have pre-paid the car hire before arrival. T h ird -party insu rance is required and included, bu t full co llision coverage is ad visab le a s well. M an y credit card s autom atically in clude this if you use the card to p ay for the car, but be sure to ver ify this before you leave hom e. If you w ish to drive in Spain to o , you m ay need to pay extra in surance. A basic econom y car is likely to average 2 0 -5 0 per day (including collision insurance and taxes). There is a sm all additional charge for an extra driver. M ak e sure you return the car with a full tank o f fuel - there are hefty charges if you fail to d o so.
I'd like t o h ire a c a r fo r t o d a y /to m o r r o w fo r o n e day /a w e e k

Q u e ria alu g a r u m c a rro p a ra ho je/am an h p o r u m dia/um a se m a n a to d o s os risco s, p o r favor.

P le ase in clud e full in su ra n ce . Q u e in clu a u m seg u ro c o n tra

CLIM ATE The Algarves climate is generally w arm all year round, with rare ex tremes. Winter evenings can occasionally be chilly, and hot periods in July and A ugust m ay prove stifling to those w ho prefer milder w eath er. Spring and autum n are the best seasons to travel in the Algarve. F M A M J J ) 12 12 14 15 18 21 23 54 54 57 59 64 69 73 15 16 17 18 19 21 21 59 61 62 64 66 69 69 A S O N D 13 55 14 57

A ir

C F

Sea C F

24 22 75 72 20 19 67 66

18 15 64 59 18 16 64 61

C rim e and Safety

109

C L O T H I N G (roupa)

D ress is ca su a l in alm o st all p arts o f the A lgarve. T h e exceptions are certain luxury hotels and restau ran ts, as well as casin os, where sm art (though never form al) attire is appreciated. Pack a sweater or jacket, even in sum m er as evenings can turn quite cool. Winters are mild with the occasional shower, so a light rainproof jacket m ay come in handy. Its cooler in the mountains and also in Lis bon and its environs, so dress w arm er if you plan on including these.
C R IM E A N D S A F E T Y (segurana; see also EMERGENCIES and POLICE)

As a m ajor tou rist area, the A lgarve experiences m ore petty crime than other parts o f Portugal, though crimes involving violence against tourists are very rare. Theft from hire cars is the m ost com m on crime targeting tourists. In rural areas the problem is far less acute, but in resorts and w here cars are left unattended for a period o f tim e (at beach parking areas, beauty spots, etc) the risk is high. Burglaries o f h oliday apartm ents, though less com m on than car theft, also occur, so be on your g u ard to the best extent possible. As a rule, never leave anything in your car, even if it is out o f sight and locked in the boot. Keep valuables in the hotel safe and refrain from carrying large sum s o f m oney or w earing expensive jewellery on the street. D o not leave bags and cam eras unattended on the beach. R ep o rt any theft to the hotel receptionist, the nearest police sta tion, or the local to u rist office. You m ust report any losses to the local police w ithin 2 4 h ou rs an d ob tain a copy o f your statem ent for insurance pu rposes. If you are goin g to Lisb o n , bew are that the city is infam ous for its p ick p o ck e ts, p a rticu larly on the M e tro , the bu ses an d R o ssio square. Som e people m ay not feel co m fortable w alking in the B air ro A lto or A lfam a areas at night unless in a group. I w a n t t o r e p o r t a th eft. Q u e ro p a rtic ip a r u m roubo.

Travel Tips

C U S T O M S A N D E N T R Y R E Q U I R E M E N T S (alfndega)

A m erican s, British, C an ad ian s and m any other n ation alities need only a valid p assp ort - no visa - to visit P ortugal. EU nation als m ay enter with an identity card . The length o f stay authorised for m ost tourists is 9 0 days (60 for US and C an ad ian citizens). The P o rtu g u ese-S p a n ish b o rd er scarcely serves a s a fron tier anym ore an d v isitors can com e and g o easily, thou gh you should carry identification. Currency restrictions. Under European Union regulations, travellers entering and leaving the EU m ust declare am ounts o f 10,000 or more. C ustom s. Free exch ange o f non-duty-free g o o d s for person al use is perm itted betw een P ortu gal and oth er EU countries. H ow ever, duty-free item s are subject to restrictions: check before you go.
Ive n o th in g t o d e c la re . Its fo r my p e rs o n a l u se .

N o te n h o n ad a a d e c la ra r.
p a ra uso p essoal.

D R IV IN G (see also C a r Hire and Emergencies)

Driving can be the best w ay to see the Algarve, but, especially in high season, traffic can test ones patience. It can also be costly, as petrol and rental charges are likely to outpace the cost o f public transport. Road conditions. The southern A lgarve coastline is served by the N acio n al 125 (abbreviated to the N 1 2 5 ). Parallel to this ro ad is the new A 22 or E01 (also called the V ia d o Infante, IP1), which runs from Sp ain as fa r w est a s L a g o s. T h is r o a d lin ks in w ith the A 2 m otorw ay going north to Lisbon. The V ia do Infante h as helped d i vert traffic from the N 1 2 5 , which in sum m er can becom e a bumper-

Driving

to-bu m p er nightm are. E xercise care at ail tim es on this ro ad ; the accident rate is one o f the highest in Europe. In rural areas, bew are o f such rustic h azards as herds o f sheep or g o ats aroun d the next bend, unlit donkeys and carts at night, trac tors, hay carts, etc. If driving to L isb on , allow at least three hours. In high seaso n the m otorw ay can be quite congested, and once you reach the centre o f L isb on traffic slow s to a craw l. Rules and regulations. The rules o f the road are the sam e as in m ost W estern E u ro p ean coun tries. A t ro u n d ab o u ts the vehicle on the ro u n d a b o u t h as prio rity unless ro ad m ark in gs or lights indicate otherw ise. L o cal driving stan d ard s are im proving but are still errat ic. Speed limits are 120kph (75m ph) on m otorw ays, 90kph (56m ph) on m ain ro ad s and 50kph (37m ph) in urban areas. C ars tow ing car avans (trailers) are restricted to 50kph (31m ph) in tow ns and 70kph (45m ph) on the open road and m otorw ays. M o st m otorw ays have tolls (portagems) but the A 22 is free o f charge. The Portuguese rou tinely disregard speed lim its, but that d oesn t m ean you should. Seat belts are m andatory, an d children under 12 can not sit in the front seat unless strap ped into a special child restraint. You can be fined on the sp o t fo r n ot carryin g y ou r licence, p a ssp o rt, or carrental docum en ts; for ignoring parkin g restrictions; for using m o bile ph ones w ith ou t h ands-free equipm en t; and for drink-driving (limit 0.5m g/l). If you take your ow n car, you need only your nation al driving li cence, car registration papers and an International M otor Insurance certificate. C om p reh en sive co v erag e is highly recom m en ded . A w arning triangle is also com pulsory. Fuel. Fuel by the litre is expensive in Portugal. Prices should be the sam e - or very close to it - everywhere you go. Som e petrol stations are 24-hour, and all accept credit cards. Filling up anywhere near the N 1 2 5 is easy, but petrol stations are sparse in som e inland regions.

Travel Tips

Parking. Parking in m ost tow ns and resorts is m an ageab le. D o n t disregard no-parking signs: your car m ay be tow ed aw ay. C ertain areas are m etered and others are Blue Z o n e s where you m ust buy a ticket from a m achine. C ar p ark s and g arag es are also available. If you need help. There are orange SO S telephones stationed about every 3km (2 m iles) on m ain ro ad s. If you belong to a m otoring o r g a n isa tio n affiliated w ith the A u tom v el C lu b e de P ortu gal (tel: 8 0 8 -5 0 2 5 0 2 ), you can m ake use o f their services free o f charge. The em ergency num ber for police and am bulance is 112. Road signs. Stan d ard international p ictogram s are used in P ortu gal, but you m ight also encounter the follow ing signs: alto halt cruzam ento cro ssro ad s curva perigosa desvio encruzilhada estacionam ento perm itido estacionam ento proibido guiar com cuidado obras/fim de obras paragem de autocarro pare passagem proibida pedestres/pees perigo posto de socorros proibida a entrada sada de cam ies seguir pela direita/esquerda sem sada d an gerous bend diversion cro ssro ad s park in g allow ed no parkin g drive w ith care ro ad w orks (men w orking)/ end o f ro ad w orks su s stop stop n o entry pedestrian s danger first-aid post no entry lorry (truck) exit keep right/left no through road

Embassies and Consulates

sentido proibido sentido nico silncio stop trabalhos trnsito proibido velocidade m xim a

no entry one-w ay street silence zone stop ro ad w ork s (men w orking) no through traffic m axim u m speed

A re w e on th e right ro ad fo r ...? e sta a e stra d a p a ra ...? Fill th e tan k w ith su p e r, p le a se . C h e c k th e o il/ty re s/ b a tte ry , p le a se . Ive b ro k e n d o w n . T h e r e s b e e n an ac cid e n t.

E n c h a o d ep sito de super, p o r favor. V e rifiq u e o leo/os pneus/ a b a te ria , se faz favor. O m e u c a rro e st avariado. H o u ve u m a cid e n te .

E L E C T R I C IT Y (electricidade, luz)

Sta n d a rd th ro u gh o u t P o rtu g al is 2 2 0 -v o lt, 50-cycle A C . U S and British app lian ces m ay require an ad ap tor, an d th ose from N orth A m erica w ill also need a transform er.
E M B A S S IE S A N D C O N S U L A T E S (em baixada; consulado)

C onsu lates in the A lgarve: B ritish C o n su late (C o n su lad o d a G r B retan ha, w hich h andles C om m onw ealth nationals): L argo Francisco A M aurcio, 7, I o; Por tim o; tel: 2 8 2 -4 9 0 7 5 0 . Canadian Consulate (C o n su lad o de C an ad ): R u a Frei Loureno de Sta M a ria 1, 1st floor, P ortad o 79; F aro ; tel: 2 8 9 -8 0 3 757). E m bassies in Lisbon: Australia: Av. d a Liberdade 2 0 0 ; tel: 213-1 0 1 500.

114

Travel Tips

Canada (Em bassy/Consulate): Av. da Liberdade 1 9 8 -2 0 0 , 3rd floor; tel: 2 1 3 -1 6 4 6 00. Republic of Ireland (E m b assy /C on su late): R u a d a Im presa E s trela 1; tel: 2 1 3 -9 2 9 4 4 0 . South A fric a (E m b assy ): A venida L u is B ivar 1 0 /1 0 A ; tel: 2 1 3 1 92 2 0 0 . United Kingdom (E m b assy ): R u a de S o B ern ardo 3 3 ; tel: 2 139 2 4 00 0 . U S A (E m b assy /C on su late): Avenida d a s F o ras A rm ad as 16; tel: 2 1 7 -7 0 2 122. M o s t e m b a ssie s a n d c o n su la te s are o p en M o n - F r i fro m 9 or 1 0 am until 4 .3 0 o r 5 p m , w ith a b reak in the m id dle o f the day o f 1 -3 h ou rs.
E M E R G E N C IE S (urgncia)

D ial I 12 for m edical, police and general em ergencies in the w hole o f Portugal. The h ospitals at F aro (tel: 2 8 9 -8 9 1 100) and P ortim o (tel: 2 824 5 0 3 3 0 ) have bancos de urgncia (em ergency w ards). Som e h o s pitals can also handle dental em ergencies. F or trouble on the road such as a breakdow n , see page 112.

G
G A Y A N D L E S B IA N T R A V E L L E R S

In a country heavily influenced by the C ath o lic C hu rch, attitu d es to w ard s g a y s are n ot a s to le ran t a s elsew here in E u ro p e , th ou gh in to u rist-d o m in ate d en claves o f the A lg arv e, su ch a s the S trip in A lb u fe ir a , g a y tra v e lle rs w ill fin d a c c o m m o d a tin g b a rs an d r e sta u ra n ts. T h e w eb site w w w .p o rtu g alg ay .p t c o n tain s a trav el g u id e w ith in fo rm a tio n in E n g lish an d o th er la n g u a g e s. It h as som e sp ecific in fo rm atio n relatin g to the A lgarve an d a m essage b o ard .

G e t t i n g t o t h e A lg a r v e

G E T T I N G T O T H E A L G A R V E (see also A ir p o rt)

A ir travel. Faro International Airport is served by numerous low- cost, charter and scheduled airlines from the U K , operating from over 25 airports. TAP Portugal (ww w .flytap.com ), the national Portuguese air line, operates daily flights from H eathrow to F aro; British Airw ays (w w w .ba.com ) h as a daily service (4 tim es daily in season) from Gatwick to Faro. Low-cost carriers include easyjet (www.easyjet.com), M onarch Airlines (w w w .m onarch.co.uk) and Thom as C ook (www.fly thom ascook.com ). From the US the only direct flights to Portugal are from N ew York to Lisbon, with connecting flights to Faro. F a ro In tern ation al A irp o rt is 7km (4 m iles) from F a ro , the regional capital. For airport inform ation , tel: 2 8 9 -8 0 0 800. By car. M an y travellers each year take their cars from other points in E u rope by m ajo r highw ays through Spain an d P ortugal. British travellers can tak e their car ac ro ss the C han nel to Fran ce or Bel gium and m ake the drive from there, although the trip is likely to take 3 or 4 days. The distance from C a la is to the A lgarve is over 2 ,0 0 0 k m (1 ,2 5 0 m iles). You can cut driving tim e by taking the car-ferry service from Plym outh to Santander in northern Spain (a 20-h our trip), but this still leaves a drive o f over 10 hou rs to the Algarve. By rail. The Portuguese national railway network is called Comboios de Portugal (tel: 808-208 2 0 8 ; w w w .cp.pt). Portugal is linked to the European railw ay netw ork; connections to Lisbon are possible from points throughout Spain, France and the rest o f continental Europe. Travel to and within P ortugal is included on any InterRail Pass. London to Lisbon by rail takes around 24 hours, going via Eurostar to Paris, from Paris to Irn on the Spanish border by T G V and from Irn to Lisbon on the Sud-Express. Lisbon and the Algarve are now linked by a direct, high-speed train. The service departs from Lisbons Oriente station. The journey time to Faro has been reduced to 3 hours.

16

Travel Tips

B y s e a . L isb on is a m a jo r p o rt, an d several cru ise ships include a po rt-of-call in the ca p ita l. F rom B ritain , B rittan y F erries (www.

brittan y-ferries.co.u k) sails tw ice w eekly from P lym outh to S a n tander in northern Spain (around 2 0 hours) and P & O Ferries (www. poferries.com ) goes four tim es a w eek from P ortsm outh to B ilbao (28 hours). The drive from B ilb ao to the A lgarve is likely to take another 15 to 18 hours.
G U I D E S A N D T O U R S (guias; visitas guiadas)

A num ber o f guid ed day-trip itineraries are availab le through a l m ost all hotels and a m yriad o f local travel agencies and tou r o p erators. These include: Seville in Spain, L isb on, the River G u adiana, Silves and M on ch iqu e, Sag res, L ag o s and the w est, L ou l m arket and Alte, an d jeep safaris. If you w ou ld like a person al guide to a particu lar place, the nearest to u rist office or travel agency should be able to direct you to q u alifie d lo c al g u id es. D ay trip s can be arranged with tax i drivers at set fees; again, see the local tou rist in form ation office for details. B o a t trips ex p lo rin g the n o o k s an d cran n ies o f the fam o u s Barlavento (west) co ast are a p o p u lar choice; they depart from sev eral points w est o f V ilam oura, m o st notably from P ortim o. Tourism offices in A lb u feira, T av ira, F aro an d S o B rs de Alportel offer guided w alks o f the historical centres o f tow ns. W ed like an English-speaking Q u e re m o s u m a guia que fale guide/an English interpreter, ingls/um intrp rete de ingls.

_________________H________________
H E A L T H A N D M E D IC A L C A R E (see also Emergencies)

Standards o f hygiene are generally very high; the m ost likely illness to befall travellers w ill be due to an excess o f sun or alcohol. Tap

Health and Medical Care

w ater is safe to drink, but bottled w ater is alw ays safest and is avail able everywhere. Even m ost local people drink bottled water, either

gua com gas (carbonated) or sem gas (still). M o sq u ito es are com
m on in sum m er; an anti-m osquito device th at plugs into your w all and em its a v ap o u r n o x io u s to the insect but not to you, is av ail able at airp o rt shops.

Farmcias (chemists) are open during norm al business hours and are recognisable by an illum inated green cro ss sign. A t other tim es
one sh op in each n eigh bo urh ood is on duty rou n d the clock. A d d resses are listed in new spapers. For m ore serious illness or injury, all principal Algarve tow ns and resorts have hospitals, and m any doctors are m ultilingual (m ost can sp e ak E n glish rem ark ab ly w ell). T h ere are a lso a n u m ber o f e x p atriate d o cto rs at m edical clinics an d h ealth centres th rou gh ou t the region. T ourist offices carry lists o f E nglish -speakin g doctors. The R ed C ro ss (Cruz Vermelha) can be contacted in F aro (tel: 289899 900) and P ortim o (tel: 2 8 2 -7 6 0 611). M ed ical insurance to cover illness or accident while ab ro ad is a g o o d investm ent. EU n ation als w ith a E u ropean H ealth Insurance C ard (EH IC ) obtained well before departure can receive free em er gency treatm ent at Social Security and M u n icipal h ospitals in P or tu gal. Privately billed h ospital visits are expensive.
1 W h e r e s th e n e a r e s t (all-night) O n d e fica a fa rm c ia (de p h arm acy? 1 n e e d a d o c to r /d e n tis t. Im n o t feelin g w ell. an a m b u la n ce h o sp ital an u p s e t sto m a c h su n str o k e

s e rv i o ) m a is p r x im a ? P re c iso de u m m d ico /u m a d en tista. N o m e sin to b e m . a m b u l n cia hosp ital m a l do e st m ag o u m a inso lao

Travel Tips

H O L ID A Y S (feriado)

National holidays: 1 Jan u ary Ano Novo 2 5 April 1 M ay 10 Ju ne 15 A ugust 5 O ctober 1 N ovem ber 1 Decem ber 8 Decem ber 25 Decem ber Movable dates:

Dia da Liberdade Dia do Trabalho Dia de Portugal Assuno Heris da Repblica Todos-os-Santos Dia da Independncia Imaculada Conceio Natal

N ew Y ears D ay R evolution D ay L ab o u r D ay N atio n al D ay A ssu m ption R epublic D ay All Sain ts D ay Independence D ay Im m aculate C onception C hristm as D ay

Carnaval Shrove Tuesday Sexta-feira Santa G o o d Friday C o rp u s C hristi Corpo de Deus

In addition, every tow n closes dow n and takes to the streets at least once a year in h onour o f its ow n patron saint. See the C alen d ar o f Events for other events (page 93).
A re you op en to m o rro w ? W h e n d o y o u c lo s e ?

E st o a b e rto s am an h ? Q u a n d o fecha?

LA N G U A G E

Your senior-school Spanish m ay help with signs and m enus, but will not unlock the m ysteries o f spoken P ortuguese. The P ortuguese in Portugal is much m ore closed and guttural-sounding and is also sp o ken m uch faster than th at in Brazil. A surprisin g num ber o f people in the A lgarve speak p assab le an d even fluent English. The Berlitz

M e d ia

Portuguese Phrasebook & Dictionary covers m ost situations y ou re

likely to encounter during a visit to P ortugal.

M
M A PS

The A lgarve is a relatively sm all region, linked east to w est by the A 2 2 an d the N 1 2 5 , so orientation is easy. The red, green and yel low Portugal T ourist M a p , availab le at som e tou rist inform ation offices, is a m ap o f the entire country; you m ay need a m agnifying g la ss for the sm aller ro a d s in the A lgarve. O th erw ise, to explore road s less travelled, the T urinta m ap o f the A lgarve (1 :1 7 6 ,0 0 0 ) is a g o o d buy. All tourist in form ation offices w ill su pply you w ith a reason ab le street plan o f the local town.
a s t r e e t m ap o f ...

u m a p la n ta d e ...

a ro ad m ap o f th e A lgarve u m m a p a das estrad as do A lg arv e

M E D IA (jorn a l;revista)

Foreign new spapers usually arrive the day after publication, though E u ro p e an ed ition s o f the Guardian and Financial Times and the International Herald Tribune are available on the sam e day at many new sagents. Popular foreign m agazines are also available. The m ost im p ortan t P ortuguese-lan guage daily is Dirio de Notcias, which co n tain s full cu ltu ral listin gs. P op u lar foreign m agazin es and pa. perback b o ok s in English are also available. English-language publications with useful inform ation as to w hats on (folklore, m arkets, m usic, cinem a, sporting events, etc) include: The Algarve News, a bi-weekly new spaper; The Resident, a weekly m agazine; and the bi-m onthly glossy Essential Algarve. The w eek end Portugal News is the co u n try s largest-circu lation Englishlanguage new spaper, also available online at w ww .the-new s.net.

Travel Tips

There are tw o government-operated T V channels in Portugal. M ost hotels and som e b ars a lso have cable connections sh ow in g w orld news, feature film s, football gam es and other big sporting events.
M O N E Y (dinheiro; see also B u d g e tin g f o r Y o u r T r ip )

Currency (moeda). T h e euro () is the official currency used in Por tugal. N o tes are denom inated in 5, 10, 2 0 , 5 0 , 100 an d 5 0 0 euros; coins in 1 and 2 euros and 1, 2, 5, 10, 2 0 and 50 cents (cntimos). Cu rren cy exchange (banco; cmbio). N o rm al ban king hours are M o n d ay -F rid ay 8 .3 0 a m -3 p m . Som e ban ks rem ain open later and at weekends to change money. The exchange at F aro airport is open daily 6 a m - m idnight. C han gin g m oney can be quite expensive, and you are advised to check the rate o f co m m ission before any tran s action. B anks often levy 0 .5 percent co m m ission w ith a m inim um charge o f 1 0 , so it is not a g o o d idea to exchange sm all am ounts with them. A utom atic m oney-exchanging m achines (A TM s) charge a t least 2 percent com m ission. Credit cards (carto de crdito). Standard international credit cards are w idely accepted , a s are E u roch equ e card s. H ow ever, in som e sh ops and restau rants, especially in sm all villages, you m ay not be able to use a credit card. ATM s (caixa automtica). A utom atic teller m achines outside banks, identified by the M B (MultiBanco) sign, are widely available. You can get cash with a V isa or M astercard , or other card on an internation al network like C irrus, as long as your card has a four-digit PIN. Travellers cheques. T ravellers cheques are not w idely accepted and a high flat-rate fee is ch arg ed for ch an gin g them . P aying by cheque is invariably m ore expensive than by cash, due to the low er rate of exchange. You will need to show your p assp ort.

Police

121

C a n I pay with this c re d it card? I w an t t o ch an ge s o m e p o u n d s/d o lla rs. C a n you c a sh a trav e lle rs ch eq u e?

Posso p agar co m ca rt o de crdito? Q u e ria tro c a r libras/dlares. Pode p agar um cheq u e de viagem ?

O P E N I N G H O U R S (horas de abertura)

M o st sh o p s and offices open 9 a m - lp m and 3 -7 p m w eekdays and 9 a m - lp m Saturday. In sum m er m any shops will remain open all day, and until 10pm or later. Shopping m alls open from 1 0 am -1 0 p m or even midnight. M ost m useum s close for lunch, from noon or 12.30pm to 2 or 2.30p m , but m ajor ones stay open all day. M o st public m use ums are closed on M onday. Churches normally open from 7am -noon and 4 -7 p m M on d ay to Saturday and are open for M ass on Sunday. The Portuguese do not take a siesta, but m ost businesses close for a 1 -2 -h ou r lunch break. B an ks are open 8 .3 0 a m -3 p m M o n d a y Friday. In resorts m any bars are open from noon (or earlier) until the wee hours. Inform al restaurants m ay open all day but m ore upscale establishm ents m ay only open at lunch and in the evening, or for din ner only. Som e restaurants close one day a w eek, so check first.

P O L IC E

(polcia; see also

EMERGENCIES)

Police w earin g arm b an d s m arked C D (it stan d s fo r C o rp o D istri tal, m eaning local corps) are assigned to assist tourists and norm ally sp eak at least a sm idgen o f a foreign language. O n highw ays, traf fic is co n tro lled by the G u a rd a N a c io n a l R e p u b lican a (G N R ) in white cars or on m otorcycles. F or a general emergency, dial 112.

Travel Tips

W h e r e s th e n e a r e s t p o lic e sta tio n ?

O n d e fica o p o sto de p olicia m a is p r x im o ?

P O S T O F F I C E S (correios)

The m ail service is generally g o o d , though it can get bogged dow n during the height o f the season . M ain offices open 8 .3 0 or 9am to 6 or 6 .3 0p m M on d ay-F rid ay; local branches open 9am to 12.30pm and 2 to 6pm M on d ay-F rid ay. The m ain p o st offices in Portim o and F a ro open on Sa tu rd a y m orn in g s a s w ell. Y ou can a lso buy stam p s from new sagents or vending m achines at p o st offices. M ail from P ortugal m ay take up to a w eek to reach a European destination. There is also a faster AzuP service which takes 2 -3 days.
W h e r e s th e n e a r e s t p o s t office? A sta m p fo r th is le tte r / p o s tc a r d , p le a se . e x p r e s s (sp e c ial d eliv ery) airm ail re g iste re d

O n d e fica a e sta o de c o rre io s m a is p r x im a ? U m selo p a ra e s ta ca rta/e ste p o stal, p o r favor. e x p resso via a re a reg istad o

P U B L IC T R A N S P O R T

Buses (autocarro). EVA T ran sp ortes (w w w .eva-bus.com ) operates m o st buses in the A lgarve. L o c al and region al tim etables m ay be co n su lted at an y bu s statio n or to u rist in fo rm atio n office. M o st buses run on time. Buy your ticket on b o ard the bus for all services except for the A lgarve E xp ress, w here tickets m ust be purchased in advance at the station. Bus stops are denoted by the sign P aragem . Train s (comboio). An A lgarve railw ay line run s from L a g o s in the w est to the eastern frontier at V ila R eal de San to A n tnio, with

Public T r a n sp o r t

123

50 station s in between. Station s are in or near F aro , Portim o and L a g o s, but in other sp ots are far enough aw ay to require a bus or ta x i ride. T h e m o st n o tab le ex am p le is the statio n o f A lb u feira, which is actually near Ferreiras and a good 15-minute bus ride from the resort. T h e top-of-the-range A lfa Pendular trains link Albuferia w ith Lisb on in 2 h ou rs 4 5 m inutes. For F aro ad d another 30 m in utes. Fares are inexpensive: L isb o n -F aro return is from 47. Train tim etables are posted at all railw ay station s; request a guia de horarios for a full listing o f tim etables. C on su lt the w ebsite o f C om boios de Portugal, the nation al railw ay netw ork, for tim etables an d in form ation on international and dom estic trains: w w w .cp.pt. Taxis (txi). P ortu gu ese ta x is are u su ally cream -colou red though som e o f the old black and green ones are still in use. While you can hail them in the street, it is usually easier to go to a taxi stand or tele phone for one. The m ajority o f tax is are m etered. If your taxi does not have a meter, m ake sure you ask w hat the charge will be before setting out. Average taxi fares to all resorts from F aro are posted at the airport. Fares increase by 20 percent if you travel from 10pm to 6am and there are fixed charges for luggage carried in the boot.
W h e r e can 1 g e t a taxi? W h a ts th e fare t o . . . ? W h e r e is th e n e a r e s t railw ay sta tio n /b u s s to p ? W h e n s th e n e x t b u s/ train t o .. .? 1 w a n t a tic k e t t o . . . single (o n e -w ay trip) re tu rn (ro u n d -trip )

O n d e posso e n c o n tra r u m txi? Q u a n to c u sta o p e rcu rso p a ra ...? O n d e a e sta o ferroviria/ a p arag em de au to ca rro s m a is p r xim a? Q u a n d o p a rte o p r xim o au to ca rro /co m b o io p a ra ...? Q u e ria u m b ilh ete p a ra ... ida ida e volta

Travel Tips

R E L IG IO N

The Portuguese are predom inantly R om an C ath olic, a fact reflect ed in surviving religious rituals and sain ts days that are public h ol idays. Services in English are scheduled in prin cipal to u rist areas. P rotestant (prim arily A nglican) services are held in several tow ns. Full details o f all services are available from tou rist offices and m ost hotels. The weekly English-language publication, The Resident, has a full listing.

s
S M O K IN G

Sm oking in public places w as banned in P ortugal in 2 0 0 8 .

T E L E P H O N E (telefone)

P ortu gals country co de is 3 5 1 . There are no local dialling codes; you need to dial all 9 digits from anyw here within the country. M o st public telephones accept pre-paid telephone card s or cred it c a rd s a s w ell a s co in s. Credifone teleph on e c a r d s can be p u r chased at p ost offices, new sagents or superm arkets. L ocal, national an d in ternational calls can a lso be m ad e from h otels, bu t alm o st alw ays w ith an ex o rb itan t surch arge. You are w ise to m ake these w ith an in tern ation al callin g ca rd , if you m u st m ak e them from your hotel room . To call from a public ph on ebox, pick up the receiver, insert card, w ait for the dial tone an d dial. To m ake an international call, dial 0 0 for an international line (both E urope and overseas; eg. U K 0 04 4, U SA 001) + the country code + phone num ber (including the area code, w ithout the initial O, w here there is one).

Tourist Information

r e v e r se -c h a r g e call C a n y o u g e t m e this n u m b e r in ...?

paga p elo d e stin a t rio Pode ligar-m e p a ra e ste n m e ro e m ...?

T IM E Z O N E S (lo ca l)

P o rtu g al, being a t the w estern edge o f E u ro p e , m ain tain s G M T (along w ith the UK) and is therefore 1 hour behind the rest o f the EU. F rom the last Sunday in M arch until the last Sunday in O cto ber, the clocks are m oved 1 hour ahead for sum m er time (G M T +1).
T IP P IN G (servio;gorjeta)

In restau ran ts w here service is not included, leave a 10 percent tip. H otel porters, per bag, generally receive 0 .5 0 -1 . Give hairdressers, tou r guides an d ta x i drivers aroun d 10 percent.
T O I L E T S (WC; quarto de banho; servios)

Public toilets exist in som e large tow ns, bu t alm o st every bar and restaurant has one available for public use. Large hotels are also an excellent place to find clean toilets. Its polite to buy a coffee or drink if you drop in to use the restroom but no one will shout at you if you d on t. The Ladies is m arked Senhoras and the Gentlemens Homens.
T O U R I S T I N F O R M A T I O N (turismo)

In form ation on the A lgarve m ay be obtained from P ortuguese N a tional T ourist O ffices: Canada: Suite 1 0 0 5 , 6 0 B loor Street W est, T oronto, O ntario M 4 W 3B 8; tel: 4 1 6 -9 2 1 7 3 7 6. Ireland: 54 D aw son Street, D ublin 2; tel: 3 5 3 -1 6 7 0 9 1 3 3 . South Africa: 4th floor, Sunnyside Ridge, Sunnyside Drive, Parktow n. PO B o x 2 4 7 3 H oughton, Johann esburg; tel: 2 7 1 1 -4 8 4 3 487. United Kingdom : 11 Belgrave Squ are, Lon do n SW 1X 8PP; UK brochure line, tel: 0 8 4 5 -3 5 5 1212.

Travel Tips

U S A : 5 9 0 Fifth Ave, 4th floor, N ew Y ork, N Y 1 0 0 3 6 ; tel: 212354 4403. In the Algarve itself, all m ajo r (and som e m inor) tow ns have tourist inform ation offices, staffed by helpful English -speakin g assistan ts. Alw ays m ake the turismo your first stop and pick up the tow n m ap/ brochu re (prin ted in sev eral lan g u ag e s), w hich lo c ates all m a jo r points o f interest. T h e m a jo r A lgarve regional office is in F aro (Av. 5 de O u tu b ro , 18; tel: 2 8 9 -8 0 0 4 0 0 or 2 8 9 -8 0 0 4 7 7 ). O th ers in clude: A lbufeira: R ua 5 de O u tu bro; tel: 2 8 9 -5 8 5 2 7 9 Faro: R u a da M isericrd ia, 8/12; tel: 2 8 9 -8 0 3 604 L a g o s: R u a Belchior M oreira de B artu d o (at S. Jo o ); tel: 282763 031 P ortim o: Av. Z eca A fon so ; tel: 2 8 2 -4 1 6 55 6 P raia d a R och a: Av. T o m s C abreira; tel: 2 8 2 -4 1 9 132 Sagres: R u a C om an d an te M atoso-V ila d o B isp o; tel: 2 8 2 -6 2 4 873
T R A V E L L E R S W I T H D IS A B IL IT IE S

F or in form ation on acco m m o d atio n , tran sp o rt and leisure activi ties, co n ta ct W heeling A ro u n d T h e A lg arv e (tel: 2 8 9 -3 9 3 6 3 6 ; w w w .player.pt).

w
W E B S IT E S A N D I N T E R N E T C A F S

W ebsites w orth checking before you g o include: www.algarvenet.com,www.algarvemais.com and www.algarve uncovered.com General w ebsites p ack ed w ith useful inform ation on the region. w ww .cp.pt C o m b o io s de P o rtu g al, n atio n al railw ay netw ork, w ith tim etables and details o f international and dom estic trains. www.flytap.com TAP/Air Portugal - the Portuguese national airline.

Youth Hostels

www.portugalgolf.pt;www.algarvegolf.net Sites on golf, with inform ation specifically related to the A lgarve. www.portugal.org Portuguese Tourism O ffice. w w w .p ortu g alvirtual.pt G en eral co u n try in fo rm atio n and tou rism d atab ase, w ith accom m od ation links. www.pousadas.pt Inns o f Portugal. w ww.visitalgarve.pt O fficial w ebsite for the A lgarve region. www .visitportugal.com O fficial w ebsite for Portugal. Internet cafs. M o st resorts have internet cafs or com puter cen tres w here visitors can access e-m ail for a sm all hourly fee. Check with the local tou rist inform ation office, a s these tend to com e and go w ith regularity. Larger p ost offices have internet points and m ost hotels w ill allow you to use their internet (norm ally for a fee). An increasing num ber o f hotels have w ireless access.
W E IG H T S A N D M E A SU R E S

T h e m etric system is used in Portugal.

Y O U T H H O S T E L S (pousadas de juventude)

F ou r youth h ostels operate year-round in the A lgarve: A lcoutim : tel: 2 8 1 -5 4 6 0 0 4 ; 64 beds F aro: R u a de PSP - Edifcio do IPJ; tel: 2 8 9 -8 2 6 5 2 1 ; 54 beds L a g o s: R u a de Lan aro te de Freitas, 5 0; tel: 282-7 6 1 970; 6 2 beds P ortim o: L u g a r d a C o ca M arav ilh as; tel: 2 8 2 -4 9 1 8 0 4 ; 180 beds For additional information, contact the headquarters o f the Portuguese Youth H ostel A ssociation (A ssociao P ortuguesa de P ou sad as de Ju v en tu d e ), R u a L cio de A zevedo N r 2 7 , 1 6 0 0 -1 4 6 L isb o n ; tel: 2 1 -7 2 3 2 1 0 0 ; w w w .pou sad asju ven tude.pt.

Listings

R eco m m en d ed H o tels
V isitors have a v ast range o f acco m m o d atio n o p tio n s in this p art o f Portugal. H o te ls are sc a tte re d a c ro s s the m ajo r to w n s and r e s o r ts o f th e A lgarv e, b u t d en sely c lu ste re d in sp raw lin g r e s o r t s th a t stretch from Lagos to Faro - especially arou nd P ortim o,A lbufeira and V ilam oura. B ook well in advance fo r high sea so n , July-Septem ber, when hotel b eds are difficult to c o m e by. H otel p ric es are hugely inflated in the height and h eat o f su m m e r (though many luxury h o te ls a re a lso at peak rate s arou nd C h ristm a s and N e w Year). A hotel th at is a rela tively go o d bargain in May o r O c to b e r - in many ways the b e st tim e to visit th e A lgarv e - may be prohibitively o v e rp ric e d during the su m m e r m onths. R oom price guidelines below are rack rates fo r a double room with bath in high season , including breakfast and value-added tax.T hus, the prices below may be considerably m o re than youll end up paying. All hotels, save fo r the tiniest residential inns, accep t m ajor cred it cards. For making reservation s, Portugals coun try co d e is 3 5 1;th e prefixes for the Algarve are 2 8 1,2 8 2 and 289.

ov er 2 6 0 1 6 0 -2 6 0 1 0 0 -1 6 0 7 0 -1 0 0 under 7 0

SAGRES
A p a r t h o t e l N a v ig a t o r Rua Infante D. Henrique, Sagres, tel: 282-624 354, fax: 282-624 360, www.hotel-navigator.com. T h is m od ern h otel, on a c liff rig h t n ex t to the pousada (see below), h a s b asic a p a rtm e n ts b u ilt aro u n d a ce n tral sw im m in g p o o l. A g o o d d eal fo r g u e sts w h o en joy the low -key, u nglitzy a p p e a l o f S ag res. O ff-se aso n its an esp ecially g o o d d eal. Satellite T V an d air-con d ition in g. Bar, re sta u ra n t an d sq u a sh co u rt. W heelchairaccessib le. 5 5 ap artm en ts.

Recommended Hotels H otel M em m o B a le e ira Vila de Sagres, tel: 282-624 212, fax: 282-624 425, www.memmohotels.com. A large , revam ped hotel o v erlo o k in g the co lo u rfu l Sag res h arb o u r an d w ithin easy strik in g d ista n c e o f se v e ra l sh eltered b e ach e s. C o n te m p o ra ry sty led g u e st ro o m s, new sp a an d a p p e a lin g p o o l w ith sea view. 1 1 0 ro o m s. Pousada do Infante Ponta da Atalaia, 8650 Sagres, tel: 282620 240, fax: 282-642 225, www.pousadas.pt. C linging to a rocky cliff looking out across the Atlantic, this pousada (one o f four along the Algarve) is prized for its location. R oo m s are spacious and com fortab le, and m ost have terraces w ith excellent view s to the coast. 51 room s.

BURGAU
C asa G rande Burgau, tel: 282-697 416, fax: 282-697 825, www. nexus-pt.com/casagrande. U nique accom od ation in a ram bling old villa and converted barn abo ve the slow -m oving fishing village o f Burgau. C h arism atic Sally V incent, an ex-actress, has been running it since 1 9 7 2 and will provide you with all you need to know abo u t the region. 7 room s, sleeping 2 -6 .

LA G O S
Dom Pedro Meia Praia Beach Club Meia Praia, Lagos, tel: 289-300 780, fax: 289-381 001, www.dompedro.pt. Th is large and po p u la r aparth otel is ju st a cro ss the road from one o f the longest stretch es o f san d alon g the A lgarve co ast: M e ia P raia, the closest beach to L ag os (3km /2 miles) from town. W ell-equipped, airy apart ments. Tw o sw im m ing p ools, tw o tennis courts, m ini-golf and land sc ap ed g a rd en s. G o o d ro ste r o f activities an d g o lfin g d isco u n ts. W heelchair-accessible. 7 7 apartm ents. Tivoli Lagos Antnio Crisgono Santos, Lagos, tel: 282-790 079, fax: 282-790 345, www.tivolihotels.com. An excellent choice fo r th ose w h o w ou ld prefer to stay in a hotel w ith ch aracter and style in old L ag o s rather than on the beach in a generic seaside hotel.

Listings H an d so m e an d co lourfu l room s, attractive poolsid e areas, indoor sw im m ing p o o l, fitness centre, tennis co urts, plu s w ater sp o rts at the D u n a Beach C lu b (hotel tra n sp o rt arran g ed ). W heelchairaccessible. 3 1 9 room s.

P O R TIM A O A N D E N V IR O N S
A p artho tel O rien tal Avenida Toms Cabreira, Praia da

Rocha, Portimo, tel: 282-480 000, fax: 282-413 413, www.td hotels.pt. In the m ore up scale (and slightly m ore tranquil) end o f
Praia da Rocha, this M oorish fantasy palace w as designed in the style o f the casin o th at sto o d on this sp o t in the 1 9 2 0 s. Features a galleried interior, Turkish bath, pretty gard en s w ith sun terraces, and sw im m ing p o o ls lo o k in g on to the beach. W h eelch air-accessible. 85 room s. Hotel B ela V ista Avenida Toms Cabreira, Praia da Rocha, Portimo, tel: 282-450 480, fax: 282-415 369, www.botelbelavista. net. The first hotel in the A lgarve, this free-standing m ansion over lo o k s the beach an d lo o k s w h olly o u t o f p lace on very built-up P raia d a R o ch a. A n arch itectu ral gem , resem bling a church m ore than a hotel, the Bela V ista w as built a s a sum m er house in 1 916. Its interior featu re s b eau tifu l w o o d ceilin gs and sta irc a se s, plu s splendid 19th-century azulejos. F ollow in g a tw o-year renovation , the hotel will reopen in 2 0 0 9 . 14 room s. Le M ridien Penina G o lf and R e so rt - Montes de Alvor, Portimo, tel: 282-420 200, fax: 282-420 300, www.star woodhotels.com. T h e origin al lu xu ry g o lf resort on the A lgarve is set w ith in a 1 4 5 -h ectare (3 6 0 -acre) e sta te , w hich in clu d es the w orld-fam ous Penina g o lf course. Perfect for the well-heeled sports lover, w ith flo o d lit ten nis, w a tersp o rts, beauty salo n and a gym . 196 room s. Residencial Praia doVau Portimo, tel: 282-401 312, fax: 282401 756. A sm all, rustic and co m fo rtab le inn in an attractive Algarvian house ju st 2 0 0 m (650ft) from the P raia do Vau beach (west o f Praia da R och a). 21 room s.

Recommended Hotels

ALVOR
PestanaA lvor Praia Hotel Praia de Trs Irmos, Alvor, tel: 282-400 900, fax: 282-400 975, www.pestana.com. Th is large and luxurious, recently refurbished hotel sits am ong thick trees and g ar dens on cliffs. It overlooks one o f the finest beaches along the coast, Praia d o s Trs Irm os, w hich is floodlit at night. O u td o o r and in d oor seaw ater p ools. Three top-flight restau rants w ith terraces and different cuisines. Tennis courts, full sp a, g o lf and w atersports near by. W heelchair-accessible. 198 room s.

C A R V O E IR O
Hotel C a rv o e iro Sol Praia do Carvoeiro, Lagoa, tel: 282357 301, fax: 282-357 211, www.carvoeirosol.com. W edged right into the narrow opening between twin cliffs above C arvoeiros tiny beach, this m odern, com fortable hotel has a central courtyard, bar an d restau ran t, and clean, bright, beach-style room s. W heelchairaccessible. 54 room s.

M O N C H IQ U E
Estalag em A b rigo da M ontanha - Estrada MonchiqueFia, Monchique, tel: 282-912 131, fax: 282-912 750, www.abrigo damontanha.com. H igh up in the Serra de M on ch ique, aw ay from the heat and crow ds o f the co ast, this w ood-and-gran ite m ountain lodge is a special retreat. Its not luxurious, but it has style and spec tacu lar view s. Pretty ro o fto p sw im m ing p o o l and caf-restauran t acro ss the ro ad . Slightly m ore expensive room s are larger and come w ith a bigger terrace. 16 room s.

SILV ES
C o lin a dos M ouros Pocinho Santo, Silves, tel: 282-440 420, fax: 282-440 426. L o c a te d on the o u tsk irts o f Silves, th is hotel h as fine view s o f the fo rtress an d attractively furnish ed, m odern ro o m s. L a n d sca p ed g ard en s, restau ran t, b ar and sw im m ing p o o l. 5 7 ro om s.

Listings

A L B U F E IR A /F A L S IA
Albufeira Jardim I & II Cerro da Piedade, Albufeira, tel: 289570 070, fax: 289-570 071, www.albufeira-jardim.com. A large en clo sed c o m p lex o f w h itew ash ed to u rist a p artm en ts sit on a hill overlooking the sea. They enjoy fine view s and a quiet setting, only a 10-m inute w alk into tow n. With five p o o ls, tennis courts, sh o p ping, bars and superm arket. All apartm en ts have either a balcony o r terrace. G o o d value. Bus shuttle service to beach and A lbufeira tow n. 4 7 0 apartm ents. Alfagar A ld eam ento Turstico Santa Eullia, Albufeira, tel: 289-540 220, fax: 289-540 229, www.alfagar.com. N ine hectares (22 acres) o f lan d scap ed gard en s and a cliff-top w alkw ay surround this good-value h oliday apartm ent com plex. One-, tw o- and threebedroom apartm ents with cleaning service five days a w eek. Steps dow n to San ta E u llia beach. 2 2 0 apartm ents. H otel A p a rta m e n to s O u rap ra ia/C lu b e P raia da O u ra

Areias So Joo, Albufeira, tel: 289-590 324, fax: 289-585 288, www.clubepraiadaoura.com. An attractive holiday com plex o f wellequ ipp ed ap artm en ts centred aro u n d sw im m in g p o o ls. Tennis co urts, sau n a, gym , ch ildrens play grou n d and close proxim ity to the A lbufeira beach. E xcellent value, especially during high season. 126 apartm ents. Hotel Belver Boa Vista Rua Samora Barros 20, Albufeira, tel: 289-589 175, fax: 289-589 180, www.hotelboavista.pt. Superb set ting, built into the cliff at the very western end o f tow n, with a view over the w hole o f A lbufeira. C lose enough to w alk to tow n but far enough aw ay to be quiet in high season. Sp a, sw im m ing p ool and sun terrace. 93 room s. Hotel Falsia Pinhal do Concelho, Praia da Falsia, tel: 289501 237, fax: 289-501 270, www.falesia.com. A m o d ern h otel th a t lo o k s lik e an a p a r tm e n t b u ild in g on the ed g e o f the Pine C liffs reso rt an d g o lf co u rse. G ard en -lik e lobby, p o o l w ith w a terfall, so m e one- a n d tw o -b e d ro o m ap a rtm e n ts. F a l sia beach

Recommended Hotels acc ess is th ro u gh the a d ja c e n t Sh eraton A lgarve. W h eelch air-ac cessib le. 1 7 0 ro o m s. Hotel Sol e Mar Rua Jos Bernadino de Sousa, Albufeira, tel: 289-580 080, fax: 289-587 036, www.grupofbarata.com. A large block hotel in the tow n centre with som ew hat dated room s but good value given its m ain asset - its built right into the cliff on A lbufeiras d esirab le beach . In d o o r p o o l. A p o p u la r econ om y p ack age -to u r hotel. 7 4 room s. ResidencialVilla Recife - Rua Miguel Bombarda, 6, Albufeira, tel: 289-586 747, fax: 289-587 182. A 2-minute w alk from the heart o f old A lbufeira, a converted private house with a p leasan t garden entrance. The old section o f the house h as m ore character than the m odern w ing. 2 9 room s. Sheraton Algarve (Pine Cliffs) H otel & R esort Praia da

Falsia, Albufeira, tel: 289-500 100, fax: 289-501 950, www. sberaton-algarve.com. O ne o f the A lg a rv e s m o st d istin g u ish ed
a n d lu x u rio u s d ev elo p m en ts, su rro u n d ed by pines a t the to p of d ram atic cliffs. H a n d so m e M o o rish styling, excellent restau ran ts and extensive sp ortin g facilities, including nine-hole cliff-top g o lf co u rse, ten nis, w a te rsp o rts, sem i-private b each , three p o o ls and sp a . L u x u ry G o lf S u ite s , p lu s v illas an d ap artm e n ts. G reat f a cilities for children. W heelchair-accessible. 2 1 5 ro o m s (33 su ites, 7 0 ap artm en ts). V ila Ch an n a So Rafael, Albufeira, tel: 289-583 700, www. sao-vicente-hotel.com. A w ell-kept villa-style sm all hotel a short w alk from a co uple o f the prettiest beaches near A lbufeira, C aste lo and So R afael. N ice pool. 18 room s. V ila Joya Praia da Gal, Albufeira, tel: 289-591 795, fax: 289-591 201, www.vilajoya.com. P rob ably the m o st stylish hotel on the entire c o a st, th is su m p tu o u sly d eco rate d sm all p a la z z o is full year-round. E nsconced in beautifu l g ard en s, the M oorish -influenced villa is ju st m in u tes fro m the pretty, calm G al beach. Beautiful b ath room s, public room s and gourm et restau ran t. M o st

134

Listings room s have sea view s. Lovely sm all p o o l. R eserve several m onths in advance. 17 room s.

A LTE
H o te l A lte Estrada de Sta Margarida, Montinho, tel: 289-478 523, www.altehotel.com. N e a r the pretty hill village o f A lte, this m odern 3-star hotel has lovely views o f the rural surroundings, good regional cuisine, sw im m ing p ool and tennis courts.

V IL A M O U R A
D o m P ed ro M arin a Rua Tivoli Lote H4, Vilamoura, Quar tern, tel: 289-300 780, fax: 289-381 001, www.dompedro.com. Im pressive hotel with a tropical feel - palm trees, w icker furniture, tile floors and b am b o o sh ad es - perched right on the edge o f the V il am oura m arina. N ice gardens and swim ming pool. Preferential terms for guests at local g o lf courses. W heelchair-accessible. 155 room s. T ivo li M a rin o te l Vilamoura, tel: 289-303 303, fax: 289303 345, www.tivolihotels.com. San dw iched betw een the m arin a and the beach, this new ly renovated hotel is the perfect m etaph or for V ilam oura resort: m assive, slick an d expensive. Like the resort, though, it also com pletes its aim s very well. G reat views, ultra-m od ern lobby, very g o o d restau ran ts, state-of-th e-art facilities, tennis co urts, in d oor an d o u td o o r p o o ls and new sp a to p am p er guests. W heelchair-accessible. 170 room s.

VA LE DO LO B O
L e M rid ien D o n a F ilip a Vale do Lobo, tel: 289-357 200, fax: 289-357 201, www.starwoodhotels.com. A h an d som ely a p pointed hotel th a ts a fav o u rite o f A lgarve g o lfe rs. Set am id 180 hectares (4 5 0 acres), p a rt o f the exclusive Vale do L o b o resort, it h as elegant trad itio n al ro o m s and p u blic are as, the San L oren zo g o lf co u rse nearby, three flo o d lit tennis co u rts, h eated p o o l and Penguin Village for entertaining sm all guests. W heelchair-accessible. 1 47 room s.

Recommended Hotels

Q U IN T A D O L A G O
H o te l Q u in t a d o L a g o Quinta do Lago, Almancil, tel: 289-350 350, fax: 289-396 393, www.quintadolagohotel. com. O ne o f the sta n d a rd b e are rs fo r lu x u ry an d leisu re in the A lgarve, th is reso rt h otel is set am id 80 0 h ectares (2 ,0 0 0 acres) o f g ard en s an d w o o d s. R o o m s are tastefu lly an d elegantly d ec o ra te d . T h ree g o lf co u rse s w en d th eir fa ir w a y s th ro u gh the R ia F o r m o sa N a tu re P reserve an d are a m o n g the fin est in E u ro p e . W ater sp o r ts, state-of-th e-art sp a , p o o ls an d beach access acro ss lovely w ooden bridge. Distinguished service. W heelchair-accessible. 141 ro o m s.

FA R O
H o te l E v a - Avenida da Repblica, 1, Faro, tel: 289-001 000, fax: 289-001 002, www.tdbotels.pt. The biggest hotel in Faro, the E va is a large, m odern block on the edge o f the h arbou r 90m (100yd s) from pedestrian shoppin g streets and the old tow n. Two b a rs an d resta u ra n ts, h ealth club and ro o fto p sw im m ing p o o l. W heelchair-accessible. 1 34 room s. H o te l F a ro Praa Dom Francisco Gomes, 2, Faro, tel: 289830 830, fax: 289-830 829, www.hotelfaro.pt. Rebuilt in 2 0 0 0 , this is now p art o f F a ro s sw ankiest shoppin g centre. The hotel is ideal ly placed - ju st outside the old tow n and overlookin g a lively plaza and the h arb o u r - an d ap p ealin gly chic. W h eelch air-accessible. 5 2 room s.

SAO BRAS D E A L P O R T E L
P o u sa d a d e S o B r s So Brs de Alportel, tel: 289-842 305, fax: 289-842 306, www.pousadas.pt. A qu iet m an or h ou se w ith m agnificent view s o f both the surrounding m ountains an d the sea a h alf hour aw ay. Th is w as the first pousada built in the A lgarve, in 1 942, and the second in all Portugal. R estaurant, bar, tennis court and sw im m ing pool. A g o o d place to get aw ay from the sunbathing m asses to relax. 33 room s.

Listings

TA V IR A
C a sa do Rio Antnio Afonso, 39, Tavira, tel: 281-326 578, www.tavira-inn.com. Sm all and characterful bed and b reak fast in a private hom e with a pool right on the river in historic Tavira. M in im um stay three nights. N o credit card s. 5 room s. Convento de So Antnio Rua de Santo Antnio, 56, Tavira, tel/fax: 281-325 632. This small, family-owned hotel w as a monastery in the 17th century. The elegantly appointed room s are certainly much m ore com fortable than they once were a s m o n k s cells. A ttractive sw im m ing p ool and central patio. M inim um stay required. 7 room s. O Pequeno C a ste lo Poo das Bruxas, Santo Estavo, Tavira, tel/fax: 281-961 692, www.pequenocastelo.co.uk. O n the outskirts o f the picturesq ue tow n o f T av ira, the little castle is a qu iet and friendly bed and b reak fast w ith view s o f the A tlantic from the ve ran d a. Well placed for w alk s in the countryside. Sw im m ing p o o l. M inim um stay o f four nights. 4 room s an d apartm ent (on request). Pousada Convento da G ra a - Rua D. Paio Peres Cor reia, Tavira, tel: 281-329 040, www.pousada.pt. The A lgarves third pousada , which opened in 2 0 0 6 , is one o f the m ost desirable places to stay along the entire co ast. The hotel is a beautiful conversion o f a 16th-century convent, retaining the R en aissan ce cloister. G uest room s are elegant and co m fortable (som e occupy a new w ing) and the restau rant is noted for locally sourced fish and se afo o d . Prices are w ide-ranging. 3 6 room s, sw im m ing pool.

A L C O U T IM
Estalagem do Guadiana Bairro do Rossio, Alcoutim; tel: 281540 120; fax: 281-546 647; www.grupofbarata.com. The gardens of this w hitew ashed inn slope dow n to the placid w aters o f the River G u ad ian a, the boun dary between P ortugal and Spain. Sim ply fur nished, m odern room s have good river views and the restaurant m akes the m ost o f local ingredients, including fish from the G uadiana. Stays from mid-July to the end o f A ugust are for a minimum o f 7 nights.

Recommended Restaurants

R eco m m en d ed R estau ran ts

T h ere are plenty o f very g o o d restau ran ts in the m ajo r to w n s and r e so rts, but th ere are also many that seem far m o re intent on se p a rating to u rists from their eu ro s than offering genuine Algarvian and P o rtu g u e se fo o d .T h e guide belo w should help you find m o re a u thentic eating exp erien ces. The p rices indicated are fo r starter, main c o u rse and d essert, with half a bottle o f h ou se wine, p er person . (N o te that so m e fish o r shell fish dishes, charged by the kilo, will be m o re expensive than the aver ages.) Service and value-added tax o f 12 p ercen t are included, as they generally are in the bill. E xcep t w here n oted , all restau ran ts a cce p t m ajor cred it cards. Prices norm ally include tax e s and a serv ic e charge, but it is cu s tom ary to leave an additional tip fo r good service. ov er 5 5 4 0 -5 5 25 40 under 2 5

SA G RES
A T a s c a - Porto de Sagres, tel: 282-624 177. O pen d aily fo r lunch and dinner. T h is ty p ical P ortu gu ese restau ran t is one of the b e st in S a g re s fo r fresh se a fo o d . C h o o se to dine on the sunscorched o u td oor terrace th at overlooks the h arbou r or in the dark sto n e interior. B oth serve the sam e g re a t se a b a s s, lo b ste r an d g rille d sq u id k e b a b s. G r a tin a te d S a g re s o y sters an d m o n k fish T a sc a are sp ecialities. V ila V e lh a - Ponta da Atalaia, tel: 282-624 788. O pen T u e-S u n fo r lunch an d dinner. Ju s t dow n the ro ad from the pou sada, the husban d-and-w ife team th at op erates this attractive ru s tic r e sta u r a n t serv e la rg e p o r tio n s o f tr a d itio n a l P o rtu g u ese d ish es. T h e d aily ementa, o r fix ed -price m enu, fo r tw o is a g o o d deal.

L istin g s

LA G O S
Adega de Marina Avenida dos Descobrimentos, 35, tel: 282-764 284. H uge rustic dining hall n ear the m arin a, p ack ed w ith locals w ho com e for the lively atm osphere an d excellent value charcoalgrilled fish and m eat.

A Lagosteira Rua 1 Maio, 20, tel: 282-762 486. O pen daily ex cept lunch Sat and Sun. Th is long-established sim ple restau ran t is centrally located and serves good , im aginative seafood. The fish cataplana is particularly good . Som e o u td o o r tables. Dom Sebastio Rua 25 de Abril 20-22, tel: 282-762 795. Open daily for lunch and dinner (closed Sun in w inter). O n L a g o ss m ain pedestrian thoroughfare, this very popular, rustic-style restaurant with dark beam s focuses on live seafood. It also has ou tdoor tables.

M O N C H IQ U E -F O IA
Abrigo da M ontanha - Estrada da Fia, tel: 282-912 131. O pen d aily fo r lunch an d dinner. O ne o f several g o o d ro ad sid e restaurants with terraces enjoying pan oram ic view s. Try the frango piri-piri ("spicy chicken), w hich com es in m ou n tain ou s portion s to echo the view ; or the cataplana.

P O R T IM A O A N D E N V IR O N S
A Lanterna Rua Foz do Arade, Porchal, tel: 282-414 429. Open M o n -S a t for dinner. O n the Ferragu d o side o f the P ortim o Bridge, this long-established restau ran t h as a repu tation for high quality, with elegant dining in sm all, traditionally furnished room s. Specials include sm oked fish and som e interesting desserts. Dona B arca - Largo da Barca, tel: 282-418 854. O pen daily for lunch and dinner. T h is fish restau ran t h as an excellent rep u ta tion for quality fresh food and typical Algarvian cuisine - it has even represented the region at various national gastronom ic festivals. The dining room is pleasan t, w ith stone w alls an d drap ed fishing nets.

Recommended Restaurants O C h arn eco Rua Dom Sancho II, Estmbar, tel: 282-431 113. C losed Sun. N o m enu here, ju st large platters o f m eat and fish in a friendly, rustic setting. Fixed-price m eals. N o credit cards.

PRAIA DA ROCHA
C h urrasq u eira da Rocha Avenida Toms Cabreira, tel: 282417 452. O pen d aily fo r lunch an d dinner. Churrasqueira m eans grill, an d you can get lots o f grilled m eats - including the fam ous espetadas, or keb abs - and the house speciality, chicken piri-piri, at this large place with g o o d view s o f the beach. L a Dolce V ita Avenida Toms Cabreira (opposite the Hotel Al garve Casino), tel: 282-419 444. The Italians w ho run this pizzeria claim its the best in the Algarve. 26 different pizzas to choose from , alo n g w ith h om e-m ad e p a sta an d freshly p rep ared sa la d s. Live m usic nightly. Safari - Rua Antnio Feu, tel: 282-423 540. C losed M on . This sea-view restau ran t com bines g o o d P ortuguese cuisine w ith a d is tinctive A n golan flavour.

PRAIA D ET R S IRMOS/ALVOR
B zio s Aldeamento Turstico de Frainha, Praia de Trs Ir mos, tel: 282-458 561. O pen d aily fo r dinner. E n sco n ced in a beach com m unity o f w hite h ouses and co n d os, a short w alk from the shoreline, this chic restau ran t h as an appealin g terrace and in tern ation al m enu (including trad ition al Portuguese cuisine). G ood wine list. Restaurante Ababuja - Rua da Ribeira, tel: 282-458 979. O pen daily for lunch and dinner (except Wed lunch). Situated on the w aterfront, near the fish m arket, this fam ily-run restau ran t has sim ple dcor and friendly service. N o t surprisingly, its well know n for its fresh fish and se afo o d but d oes unusual specialities includ ing stuffed squ id and cuttlefish with beans. The catch o f the day is alw ays a g o o d bet.

L istin g s

A L B U F E IR A

A Ruina - Cais Herculano, tel: 289-512 094. O pen daily for lunch and dinner. A 19th-century, four-storey m ansion , the R u in features a basic dining room dow n stairs, rustic-looking restaurant on the second floor and roof-top dining with view s over Praia dos P escad ores. N e a r the fish m ark et and ju st w est o f Fish erm en s Beach , the speciality is w ell-prepared se afo o d . Try the caldeirada (fish stew). L a Cig ale Praia de Olhos d gua, tel: 289-501 637. O pen d aily fo r lunch and dinner. E xcellen t se a fo o d in a ru stic, w h ite w ashed beachside restau ran t w ith an attractive terrace. Perfect for lazy and inform al eating by day, L a C igale is elegant and rom antic by night. Try the mollusc a la cigale, a shellfish special. Paulus P izze ria Edificio Oura Claudios, Estrada da Santa Eu llia, Albufeira, tel: 289-587 159. O p en d a ily n o o n - l l p m . A go o d place for a fam ily m eal ou t w ith g o o d pizzas and p a sta s and ch ild ren s m enu s. A lfresco an d co n serv ato ry d in in g. T ak e-aw ay av ailab le. R estauran te do H otel V ila Joya in Hotel Vila Joya, Praia de Gal, tel: 289-591 795. O p en d aily fo r lu n ch an d din n er; clo sed m id -N o v -ea rly M ar. T he restau ran t o f the m o st lu xu riou s an d su m p tu o u sly d esign ed sm all hotel alo n g the A lgarve is, like the hotel, refined and elegant - an d the only one in P ortu gal w ith tw o M ichelin stars. To su it its m u lti-n ation al p atro n s, the kitchen prepares eclectic international dishes. R eservation s for non-guests essential.

G U IA
O Teodsio Estrada Algoz, Guia, tel: 289-561 318. O pen daily for lunch and dinner. G uia is renowned for its chicken piri-piri dish es and this hugely p o p u la r restau ran t bills itself a s Rei d os F ran g o s (K ing o f C h ick en s). Be p rep ared fo r qu eu es and crow ded , com m unal tables.

Recommended Restaurants

A R O U N D A L M A N C IL
C a sa V elha Quinta do Lago, Almancil, tel: 289-394 983. O p en M o n - S a t fo r dinner. T h e elegan t reso rt th ats grow n up aroun d it h as only recently cau gh t up to the chic stan d ard s set by this restaurant for nearly three decades. In a renovated 19th-century farm h ouse (hence the nam e, old h ou se ), this is ab o u t as elegant as dining in the A lgarve gets. T he French m enu is soph isticated, the dishes artfu lly p rep ared an d the service perfect, but its n ot at all stuffy. Excellent wine cellar. Gigi B each Quinta do Lago, mobile: 964-045 178. O pen M a r - N o v d aily fo r lunch. T he setting is sim ple: a w ooden beach sh ack tucked in am ong the dunes and w etlands o f the R ia Form osa N atu re Preserve, reached acro ss a long w ooden bridge. The food is also sim ple: point to the fish o f your choice an d w atch it taken d i rectly to the grill. Pequeno Mundo Pereiras (Almancil, just off Estrada de Quar tern), tel: 289-399 866. Open M ar-N o v M o n -Sat for dinner. A beau tiful old villa is the setting for gourm et French cuisine. Two terraces for alfresco dining. Favourites are the fish stew and the Chateaubriand. Restaurante Erm itage Estrada Almancil-Vale do Lobo, tel: 289-355 271. Open Tue-Sun for dinner. An ancient farmhouse-turnedelegant-restaurant popular with international clientele o f expatriates and affluent visitors to the Q uinta do L ago and Vale do L ob o resort area. M odern M editerranean cuisine, fine wines and excellent service.

V IL A M O U R A
Restaurante O Cesteiro Estrada de Falsia-Vilamoura, tel: 289312 961. Open Thur-Tue for lunch and dinner. Th is terrace restau rant overlooks the glittering V ilam oura m arin a, so you can ponder the yachts as you sam ple charcoal-grilled fish and seafood items. Restaurante Pier O n e Clube Nutico, Marina da Vilamoura, tel: 289-322 734. Open daily for dinner; closed M on in winter. With

Listings a terrace that offers p an oram ic view s o f the m arina and, in the dis tance, the sea, Pier O ne is a tem pting place fo r alfresco dining at sunset. Interesting selections, such as M ozam b ican praw n s, m on k fish lasagne and chicken, and b an an as in a p u ff pastry.

FA R O
A d e g a N o v a Rua Francisco Barreto, 24, tel: 289-813 433. Open daily n o o n -1 1 .3 0 p m . H earty tradition al P ortuguese fare served at com m unal tables with jugs o f wine. G reat value and bustling, friend ly atm osphere. A T a s c a - Rua do Alportel, 38, tel: 289-824 739. O pen M o n -S a t for lunch and dinner. T h is sm all sim ple restau ran t serves unusual and authentic A lgarvian fare. E xcellent selection o f wines. C a m a n Praia de Faro, tel: 289-817 539. C losed M on . S o phisticated fish restaurant on F aro s beach serving delicious caldeivada de lagosta (lobster stew ), risotto dishes an d fresh grilled fish. D o is Ir m o s Largo do Terreiro do Bispo 18, tel: 289-823 337. The Tw o Brothers restau ran t has been a F aro se afo o d legend since as long ago as 1 9 2 5 . Th is sim ple bistro has an extensive fish m enu, including nine types o f cataplana, and lots o f regional specials. M e sa d o s M o u ro s - Largo da S, tel: 289-878 873. O pen M o n -S a t for lunch and dinner. A friendly place with a terrace in the shadow of the cathedral in the heart o f F aros old town, The M o o rs T ab le is a g ood place for a sightseeing break during the day and a sim ple lunch o f grilled sardines.

TA V IR A
Q u a tr o g u a s - Stio das Quatro Aguas, tel: 281-325 396. Open daily for lunch and dinner; closed M on . This handsom e 18thcentury building on the h arbou r is a fine choice for a se afo o d m eal. T raditional P ortuguese dining, w ith an em phasis on dishes such as arroz de marisco (seafoo d rice), cataplana and octopu s chowder.

INDEX
A b icada (ruins) 40 Albufeira 4 8 -9 , 52 Alcoutim 71 Algar Seco 46 Almancil 54 Alte 5 0 -1 , 90 Alvor 39 Arm ao de Pra 47 Barragem do Arade 4 5 , 82 Barragem da Bravura 34 Bensafrim 34 Burgau 29 C a b o de So Vicente (Cape St Vincent) 20, 28 Caceia Velha 69 C aldas de Monchique 4 0 -1 , 82 Carvoeiro 4 5 -6 C astro M arim 14, 70 Falsia beach 48, 52 Faro 5 8 -6 4 Arco da Vila 60 Convento de N ossa Senhora da Assuno 60-1 Ermid de N ossa Senhora do R epouso 61 Igreja do C arm o 63 Igreja de So Francisco 61 Igreja de So Pedro 63 Jardim M anuel Bivar 61-2 Jew ish Cemetery 63 L argo da S 60 M useu Arqueolgico Infante Dom Henrique 61 M useu Regional do Algarve 62 Pao Episcopal 60 Praia de Faro 6 3 -4 Ferragudo 39 Fia 42 Fortaleza do Beliche 28 Fortaleza de Sagres 27 Fuzeta 66 llha de Tavira 69 L ag o a 45 L agos 1 9 -20, 2 9 -3 2 , 79 Forte da Ponte da Bandeira 30 Igreja de Santo Antnio 3 1 -2 M ercado de Escravos 31 M useo Regional de Lagos 32 Lisbon 2 5 ,7 2 - 7 Alfam a 73 Bairro Alto 74 Belm 7 6 -7 Centro Cultural de Belm 77 Elevador de Santa Ju sta 7 4 -5 M osteiro dos Jeronim os 76 M useu N acional de Arte Antiga 76 M useu N acional do Azulejo 7 3 -4 Padro dos Descobri mentos 7 6 -7 Parque das N aes 77 Praa do Comrcio 75 So Vicente de Fora 73 S 73 Loul 5 5 -7 , 88 Luz 29 M anta R ota 6 9 -70 M oncarapacho 66 Monchique 4 1 , 88 Igreja M atriz 41 M onte G ordo 6 9 -7 0 N o ssa Senhora do D esterro 41 N o ssa Senhora da R ocha 4 7 O lh o 20, 6 4 -6 N o ssa Senhora do R osrio 64 Praa da R estaurao 65 O lhos dAgua 5 1 -2 Palcio de Esti 5 7 -8 Parque M iniero Cova dos M ouros 71 Ponta da Piedade 3 3 -4 Porches 4 6 -7 , 88 Portimo 3 4 -8 , 79 Colgio dos Jesutas 35-6 dockside 3 6 -7 Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceio 36 Largo I o de Dezembro 35 Praia da Rocha 3 8 -9 , 83

Index
Fortaleza de Ferragudo 39 Fortaleza de Santa Catarina de R ibam ar 39 Praia do Vau 39 Praia de Trs Irmos 39 Quarteira 53 Quinta do Lago 54, 80, 84 Ria Form osa Nature Reserve 54 Sagres 25-6 Salema 28-9, 79 Salir 51 S o Brs de Alportel 57 So Loureno dos M atos 5 4-5 Serra de Monchique 4 0 -2 , 85 Silves 14 -5 , 4 2 -4 Castelo do s M ouros 43-4 Igreja da M isericrdia 44 S Velha 44 Torreo da Porta da Cidade 44 T av ira 6 7 -9 castle 67-8 Convento da G raa 68 Igreja da M isericrdia 6 8 -9 Igreja de Santa M aria do Castelo 68 Rua da Liberdade 69 Vale do L o bo 54, 80, 85 Vila do Bispo 28 Vila Real de Santo Antnio 7 1 -2 Praa do M arqus do Pom bal 72 Vilamoura 5 2 -3 , 79-81 Cerro da Vila 53 Villa Rom ana de Milreu 58

p ock et g u id e

Photography credits

Algarve
F o u rth E d itio n 2 00 9 Written by Neil Schlecht Updated by Susie Boulton Edited by Alex Knights Series Editor: Tony Halliday

All photography by Chris Godet except for: Chris Coe 10, 12,20,82; Mary Evans Picture Library 1 Shaun Botterill/Getty 22;Tony 9; Halliday 73,74,75,77; Pictures Colour Library 89; Cro Magnon/Alamy 9 1 ,96; Glyn Genin 95; Stuart Abraham/Alamy 98
Cover picture: 4Corners Images

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Useful Expressions in Portuguese

Good morning/ Good afternoon. Please ... Thank you. Yes/No. Excuse me. Do you speak English? Where can 1 find/buy...? Bom d ia / Boa ta rd e. P o r fa v o r ... O b rig a d o (a ). S im /N o . D esculp e.. F a la in g l s? bawng deeer/ boaer ta h rd e r poor fervoar oabriggahdoo(er) seeng/nahngw sidhkoolper fahler eengglaysh

O n d e p o sso ? e n co n tra r/ co m p ra r...? O n d e ...? ,A q u e d ist n cia ? Q u a n to tem p o ?

aw ngder possoo ayngkawngtrahr/

Where is ...? How far? How long?

aw ngder eh er ker dishtahngsyer kwahngtoo tayngpoo kwahngtoo kooshter ser fash fervoar

How much is it? Q u a n to cu sta ? Waiter/Waitress S e fa z fa v o r!/ please! I'd like... I don't understand. When does ... open/close? Q u e ria ... N o co m p reen d o . Q u a n d o a b re / fe c h a ...?

kerreeer nahngw prayngdoo kw ahngdoo ahbrer/faysher ker orrersh sahngw

What time is it? Q u e h o ra s s o ?

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