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tw
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ii

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11

37

49

59

73

87

93

105

115

125

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001

135

137

141

149

157

002

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2010380020095.2%
70%
1.115.1%10.5%9.3%
6.1%5.1%1.2

2000201010
28%45%2009
201015%

7%

27%

27%

17%
17%

4%

1.12010

004

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53.90%

15.10%
10.50%

9.30%

6.10%
5.10%

1.22010

2010876
676
4641.3

2010
P&G, L Oreal, UniliverL Oreal
P&G
1.1

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005

75

88

44
176
876
300
358
676
340

400

464

1.32010

900

006

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1.12010

LOreal(10.6)

P&G(19.8)

LOreal(19.6)

LOreal(8.6)

Beiersdorf(7.0)

LOreal(17.5)

Estee auder(8.3) Cotu(8.1)

Shiseido(4.9)

Unilever(10.8)

Avon(7.0)

P&G(7.5)

P&G(4.7)

Henkel(5.0)

P&G(5.5)

Avon(7.4)

Estee auder(4.2) Kao(2.8)

Shiseido(4.8)

LVMH6.7

Unilever(4.0)

Alberto-Culver(1.9)

Coty(3.9)

Natura(5.5)

Avon(3.9)

Shiseido(1.8)

Revlon(3.9)

Estee Lauder(4.6)

J&J(3.8)

Beiersdorf(1.6)

Kao(3.7)

Botica omercial(3.9)

Kao(3.7)

Colgate-Pamoliver(1.5)

LVMH(2.6)

Chanel(3.8)

10

Kose(1.8)

Avon(1.1)

Chanel(2.4)

Puig(3.6)

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007

1.

2.

3. Food, Drug, and Cosmetic

Act.

4.

5.

008

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Q-10

EGF

1. 5
2.
3.
4.

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009

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EGF

1.2.3.
1.

2.

3.

012

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(1)(2)
(3)

()

1.

120

100120

100

lodine value lodine number

100

100

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(02)2705-5066

013

(1) Olive OilCastor Oil

Coconut OilSweet Almond Oil
Apricot Kernel OilPalm OilJojoba OilAvocado OilGrape Seed
OilHazelnut OilRice Bran Oil
Wheat Germ OilTeaseed Oil
Macadamia Nut Oil
(2) Shea ButterCocoa Butter
Mango Kernel Butter
(3)


Candelilla Wax

Carnauba wax

2.

(1) Shark Liver OilMink Oil

(2) TallowsLardOs-

014

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trich Oil
(3)BeeswaxWool Wax
3.

Mineral Oil
Paraffin OilVaselline or Petroleum Jelly
Microcrystalline WaxOzocerite WaxParaffin Wax
4.

(1)

(2)

(3)

() Fatty alcohols6

Fatty acids-COOH
1218
C12C18

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015

1.
Cetyl AlcoholStearyl AlcoholOleyl Alcohol
2.
C12Lauric Acid
C14Myristic AcidC16Palmitic
AcidC18Stearic Acid

C22

Behenic AcidOleic acid

3. -R 1 COOR 2

()Surface active agents

---

016

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1. (1)(2)(3)

2.

3.

4.

5.
(1)
(2)

(3)
6.
(1)
1020
(2)

CH 2(OCH 2CH 2)xOH

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(02)2705-5066

017

CH 2COONa +

CH 3 Cl CH 2

N+

CH 3

CH 3

CH 3
CH 2

N+

CH 2

O-

CH 3

Nonionic surfactants
A.

Span20

018

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O
O
HO
HO

OH
O

B. HLB H ydrophilic L ipophilic B alance

(A) H LB2

(B) H L B 3 6 W / O

(C) H LB818O/W

HLB
Anion surfactants

Alkyl sulfates

A. SLSSodium lauryl sulfate

B. T LSTriethanolamine lauryl sulfate

Cationic surfactants

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(02)2705-5066

019

A.
B.
C.
D. 2%
E. Stearyl trimethyl ammonium
chloride-
R1
R

R2

N+
R2

R 1cetyl
Cl -

R 2methyl

Amphoteric surfactants
A.

B.
pH

pH7

BetaineR
cocos

020

(02)2705-5066

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(02)2705-5066

1,2-043
1,3-043

MPPDMinimum Persistent Pigment Darkening068

a-b-082

mtDNA079

A054, 056, 083, 144

P&G005, 007

BHABulylated hydroxyani-

Phenyl Trimethicone128, 131

sole025, 082
BHTBulylated hydroxytoluene025

Sodium Laureth Sulfate094,

099, 100, 102
type I/III procollagen079

Cosmetic008, 048

Uniliver005

cps095

UVA034, 060, 061, 065, 066,

D i m e t h i c o n e 1 0 1 , 1 0 2 , 11 7 ,
120, 121, 127, 128, 130, 131
Drug008

067, 068, 070, 071, 078

UVB034, 060, 061, 064, 065,
066, 067, 068, 071, 078

EGDS095, 099

UVC060, 071, 078

EGF009, 012, 082

Vit-A050, 054, 056

EGMS095, 099

-080

Food008

043, 117

Glycerin096, 097, 100, 107,

019, 097, 112

112, 117, 120, 121

HLBHydrophilic Lipophilic
Balance019
in vitro033

Xanthan Gum109,
111, 112, 117, 121, 145
043, 044, 107, 112, 117,
128

in vivo033

097

L Oreal005

009

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(02)2705-5066

159

Hydroxyethylcellulose109

033, 037, 038, 039, 041, 042,

043, 044, 043, 044, 034, 046,

015

045, 048, 076, 081, 082, 087,

015

088, 089, 090, 096, 097, 098,

012, 017, 019, 106, 107,

100, 107, 112, 120, 121, 137,

108, 109, 110, 111, 116, 117,

138, 139, 141, 142

118, 119, 120, 121, 122, 123,

034, 043, 044, 048

126, 127, 128, 131

eumelanin050,

Shea Butter014
Shea Butter116
039, 044, 055, 082, 143
044, 082

051, 052
PPFphototoxic
protection factor068
008, 033, 060, 078, 081,

009, 034, 056, 057,

066, 126, 127, 129
Dimethicone
015, 117

085
photoaging078
050, 053
040

Benzophenones065

intrinsic aging
076, 077

063

A083

054

017

ACTH

018, 020, 094,

052

099, 102

MSH052
007, 009, 012, 017, 026,

Amphoteric
surfactants020

160

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015, 116, 131, 132

Vaselin116
Vaselline or Petroleum
Jelly015
017, 117, 120, 121, 126,
127, 128, 131, 132

034, 063, 064,

071
041
008
126, 131, 132, 133
Cocoa Butter014

015, 116

044, 046, 082

001, 004, 005, 006, 007,

015, 131

012, 013, 014, 015, 016, 017,

Ozocerite Wax015

020, 021, 022, 023, 025, 028,

038, 075

038, 008, 004, 012, 042, 004,

012, 013, 038, 087

009, 003, 032, 011, 043, 008,

matrix metallo-

009, 035, 042, 043, 044, 045,

046, 047, 048, 050, 053, 056,
057, 058, 060, 061, 062, 063,

proteinases, MMPs076
Candelilla Wax
014

067, 068, 071, 074, 079, 080,

131, 132

081, 083, 084, 085, 087, 088,

054, 056

089, 090, 094, 095, 096, 097,

040

101, 103, 116, 117, 125, 126,

extrinsic aging

141, 144
007, 011, 012, 025,
042, 048, 063, 088, 095
106, 108, 109, 110, 113,
137, 138, 139

076, 078
exposed epidermis074
066
009

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(02)2705-5066

161

054
054, 055, 145
Wheat Germ Oil
014

premature aging
syndrome077
sunburn060, 062, 078
054

043, 044, 046

minimal phototoxic dose.MPD068

016
Vit-C054, 055

016, 018, 097, 144

018, 043, 097

Lauric Acid097

Carnauba wax014,

038, 075

132

009

051, 083

012

045, 074, 076, 081

063

096

Apricot Kernel Oil

015, 131

014

Microcrystalline Wax
015

054, 056
053, 054, 055, 082, 141

050

017, 020, 082, 101

078

Palm Oil014

055

016, 097, 117, 128

016, 025, 081, 084,

Palmitic Acid097

085, 096, 106, 107, 132, 144

080, 081
017, 020
008, 138

Isopropylpalmitate117, 128
Coconut Oil014,
097

162

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Hazelnut Oil014

127, 129

063, 065

063, 064

Olive Oil014, 042,

054, 055, 056, 062, 064

097, 116, 120, 121

062

017, 020

Mink Oil014

008, 051, 126

039, 074, 076

009, 013, 015, 016, 021, 025,

012, 089, 094, 095, 098,

034, 036, 051, 052, 053, 054,

055, 056, 057, 058, 060, 061,

099, 100, 102, 103

013, 014, 015, 025, 082,

065, 066, 077, 078, 080, 081,

097, 116

084, 085, 096, 097, 106, 107,

016

116, 117, 126, 127, 129, 132,

Oleyl Alcohol016

144

094, 095

009, 034, 056, 057, 066,

126
054, 063, 064
039
015, 017, 045, 054, 064, 078,
081, 097, 116, 117

047, 089, 094, 095, 103

012, 089, 094, 095, 101,
102, 103
reactive oxygen
species, ROS078
ROS081

015, 116, 117

041

Hydrogenated

017, 019, 099

Polyisobutene117

041

097

017

097

056, 126, 129

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163

009, 017, 047, 082

033, 034, 035, 036, 038, 039,

095

040, 041, 042, 045, 046, 047,

015

048, 050, 051, 052, 053, 054,

012

055, 056, 057, 061, 063, 064,

063

065, 067, 068, 069, 070, 074,

054, 055

076, 077, 078, 079, 080, 081,

054, 055

082, 083, 084, 085, 090, 091,

019, 044, 094

096, 099, 101, 102, 109, 137,

041

138, 139, 141, 143, 144

Tallows014

025, 054

009, 034, 056,

Alpha-tocopherol

063, 066, 071

025

009, 044, 138, 142

095, 099

growth hormone,
GH078

Cyclopentasiloxane117

012, 016, 017, 018,

019, 020, 036, 094, 095, 096,

014, 043, 044, 046, 076,

096, 097, 107, 112, 117, 120,
121

098, 099, 101, 102, 103

Isostearic Alcohol
117

043

053

Sweet Almond Oil

-6053

014, 116

097, 098

004, 005, 006, 007, 008, 009,

012, 013, 015, 016, 022, 025,

038, 039, 047, 061,

075

164

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039, 074, 076

Paraffin Oil015

005, 006, 007, 008, 009,

Silica127

012, 015, 020, 033, 034, 035,

101, 102, 109, 110, 111,

036, 038, 039, 040, 041, 042,

116, 117, 120, 121, 128, 131

043, 044, 045, 046, 047, 048,

117

050, 051, 052, 053, 054, 055,

016, 097, 129

056, 057, 058, 060, 061, 062,

Stearic Acid097

063, 064, 066, 067, 068, 069,

016, 117, 118, 122

070, 071, 074, 075, 076, 077,

Stearyl Alcohol016

078, 079, 080, 081, 082, 083,

Mineral Oil015,

084, 085, 090, 096, 100, 101,

103, 108, 109, 112, 113, 116,
117, 123, 126, 127, 128, 129,

042, 116, 120, 121

NGF
053

130, 133, 137, 138, 139, 141,

044, 076, 082, 106

142, 143, 144, 145

Castor Oil014

005, 006, 007

Rice Bran Oil014

034, 035, 036, 038, 039,

012, 050, 116, 126, 127,

040, 041, 057, 061, 074, 075,

076, 078, 079, 083
034, 036, 061, 074, 076,
083
051
Paraffin Wax015, 116,
131

128, 129
012, 126, 129, 130
021, 025, 146
085, 106, 108, 109, 110,
111, 112, 113, 141, 145, 147
008, 034, 046, 047, 050,
051, 053, 054, 057, 060, 061,

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062, 063, 065, 066, 067, 068,

089, 090, 118, 141, 144, 145,

069, 070, 071, 076, 078, 079,

146

080, 081, 085, 091, 096

034, 046, 065,
096

055, 056, 057

061
127

034

043, 044

126

127, 132

A036, 106, 121, 144

015

E106, 107, 121, 132

UNEP

025, 053, 054, 056, 080,

081, 083, 084

061
062

A054, 056, 083

054, 063, 065

C025, 054, 080, 081

Cimmanates

CAscorbic acid025

065

E054, 080, 081, 084

046, 083

Lanolin Oil116

016, 097

117

Myristic Acid

015, 131

016, 097

Wool Wax015

083

082

Macadamia Nut Oil

007, 009, 012, 026, 031,

014

032, 033, 036, 038, 049, 050,

050, 084

051, 053, 054, 055, 054, 055,

033

056, 057, 058, 060, 087, 088,

074, 075, 076

166

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014, 015, 016, 018, 055,

097

012, 034, 036, 038, 039,

040, 041, 042, 046, 048, 050,

015, 016, 118, 122

056, 060, 061, 074, 075, 078,

pheomelanin051,

079, 080, 082, 138, 144

052
009, 036, 045, 046,

034, 036, 060, 061, 074,

075

074, 076, 078, 079, 082, 083,

012, 080

085, 113, 144

082

collagen082

068, 070, 071

true aging077

051

Mango Kernel But-

055, 056, 057

ter014
Teaseed Oil014

keratin034, 038
034, 038, 039, 040, 044,

Jojoba Oil014

050, 053, 054, 056, 061, 075,

Jojoba Oil 116,

079, 082

121
Grape Seed Oil
014

015
Lard014
Mink Oil014, 116

015, 122, 131, 132

054, 081

Beeswax015

SOD081

016, 118, 120, 121

012, 016, 038, 087

013, 014, 015, 122

OMC065

015, 025, 036, 054, 055,

038

056, 063, 064, 065

044, 045, 046, 047,

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048, 076, 081, 082

CAT078, 081

unexposed epidermis074

097

017, 094, 099, 102

Avocado Oil014

094, 099,

051, 052, 053, 054, 055

082
006, 007, 009, 012, 026,

102
Nonionic
surfactants018

027, 028, 034, 038, 046, 051,

034, 038, 039, 050, 075

054, 056, 057, 059, 060, 061,

insulin-like

062, 063, 064, 066, 067, 068,

growth factor-I, IGF-I078

069, 071, 081, 084, 087, 116

016, 021, 132

026, 034

009, 094, 095, 097

SPFsun protection

021, 095, 096, 097, 098,

factor067

099, 100, 102, 106, 107, 109,

016, 022, 023, 025, 036,

047, 106, 137, 138, 141, 142
012, 026, 033, 035, 074,
082, 083, 085

111, 119, 120, 121, 128, 129,

130, 146
012, 013, 016, 044, 045,
050, 082, 095, 108, 109, 110,

094
Cationic surfactants018, 019, 020, 102

111, 113, 117, 122, 126, 145

056, 127, 129
Kaolin127

052, 078

Squalene116

017, 094, 099, 102

Shark Liver Oil

126, 129

014

168

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Cetyl Alcohol016,
118, 120, 121

054, 055
033, 036, 050, 051, 052,

Ostrich Oil014

053, 054, 055, 056, 057, 058,

060, 061, 077, 078, 144

bFGF053
082

033, 050, 053, 077,

078

033

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, ,
. . , 2012.04

ISBN 978-957-11-6631-5 ()
1.
466.7

101005691

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