TEXTILE INSTITUTE OF PAKISTAN

Textile Merchandizing Lectures #8.

Sampling Types of Samples Product Development Types of sampling Tech pack study Types of tech packs Requirements And importance

1st company project Distribute Polo order/spec Chapters 4, 6 Give back flow charts List of processes required to make polo shirt

Sampling:
Importance of Samples; It is the first and the foremost part of the apparel merchandising chain, because samples generate orders. A great deal of responsibility is involved when a completed sample is handed over to the customer/concerned departments. By providing an accurate sample the manufacturer confirms that the garment meets all planned, relevant production and technical capacities and capabilities. And above all the quality is and will be precisely what is required during production.

Sample delivery times The timely submission and approval of samples is an integral part of ensuring the production cycle remains on schedule

Merchandisers Sample responsibility. It is the responsibility of the Factory/Buying Agency/Importer to keep the end customer well informed about samples and any possible delays and problems being encountered.

Page 1/9

And if the customer is kept abreast of any problems or potential delays in a timely manner the customer may be able to help resolve the said problems

Co-ordinate with the sample room production department and customer. Make and list of samples as per purchase order and # of samples required and at what stages of production. If any of the required samples by the customer falls short of time and quality/required quantity, delays will start curtailing the order plan, since each production stage is dependent on particular sample approval, hence facing delays eventually.

Complete follow up and samples of all orders and times of deliveries.

Types of Samples; 1. Prototype Samples or Fit Samples 2. Pre production Samples 3. Production samples 4. Salesman Samples 5. Photo shoot samples 6. Size set samples 7. Testing samples. 8. Production/internal approval samples 9. Shipment samples.

Prototype Samples: Prototype samples are normally the first set of samples submitted to the customer. Said samples are used only to ensure proper garments construction and measurement specification.

Page 2/9

Which includes how the sample drapes as well as to ensure that the style is designed correctly ensuring proper fit and esthetically suites the brands image.

Any size as per the customers size chart is followed. Fabric weight can differ to a smaller extent, but the fabric design should be similar to the ordered style. But color could be the choice of the manufacturer.

Trims can be used as available Other then any changes in the basic design and styling or construction by the customer after reviewing the said samples, there is no margin of error from the manufacturers side, prior to submission.

The samples should be perfect. These samples should be tagged and must be delivered to the customer along with a sample inspection report.

Pre production Samples: PP or Pre production samples should represent the actual production garments These must exhibit correct fabric content of production fabric to be used including body and trims. Color and color combinations as per purchase order specification. Production construction and finishing as specified with the order. Production size specifications Expected trims as to labels, buttons etc. These samples should be packed in accordance with the packing instructions such as folded, hanging etc. The number of samples required by the customer is necessary to follow and there must not be any short cuts. These samples if not on time and per specifications can lead to cancellations and delays in proceeding further in the order.

Page 3/9

The manufacturers are not allowed to proceed or begin production until they has received approval from the customer as sometimes minor changes might need to be incorporated prior to commencement of actual production.

Production/Internal Approval Samples As soon as the Pre production samples are approved, one will have all the specified approvals needed to proceed with the productions, but there are certain precautions needed to be taken before giving go ahead for production. These samples are/should be made especially for the internal approvals of the company, this is your precaution sample. On receiving customers approvals, a replica for each department should be made duly signed and sealed by Sample Master, Merchandiser, Production manager, and QA Manager (and provided to the heads of each concerned departments) These samples will ensure that the quality, specifications and types of seams/stitches and the constructions are in accordance with the customers requirements. The sample garment is given a seal of approval and marked accordingly; it is then used by the production unit/departments as the standard for quality and production. It minimizes risks of any faults that may arise due to stitching techniques, stitches per inch and the type of operations and attachments. It is a reference sample for all.

Size Set Samples Most important internal approval samples Size set is a set of samples that covers all sizes irrelevant of colors. A manufacturer who is conscious of quality must not proceed into bulk cutting prior to the approval of size set samples. A complete size set is made from the actual bulk fabric received.
Page 4/9

The said samples are cut in cutting department and stitched on production floor ensuring the correct size measurement. It minimizes any risk, which may arise from bulk cutting, and maximizes control. One thing is certain: Garment quality should never be left to chance and the combination of exacting inspection procedures for samples and the feed back from Size set samples goes a long way towards eliminating and chance elements.

Production Samples: These samples are taken from the customers representatives from the inline inspection during production. These samples are some times sent to the customer directly just to check if the production is running smoothly. These represent the quality of work being done by the manufacturer and to find/correct any fault during production. It also makes the customer satisfied that the given specifications are being followed.

Sales man samples Upon receiving acceptance of pre production samples you will immediately start production of Salesman Samples. These samples are the display samples and should be perfect/tested/approved and complete in all aspects. These samples are very important since they are also used for exhibits in exhibitions. And is the reference sample of the end customer. (not the consumer) The most important is the timely delivery of these samples, since by this time your production is in full swing, and any delays will give rise to doubts.

Page 5/9

Photo shoot samples This is an offshoot of the salesman samples, and is followed in exact specifications of the above, but is demanded by some customers for any catalogue shoots or fashion shows done by the buyer.

Testing samples Now most of the customers require certain third party tests performed on their merchandize. To ensure that the wearing apparels are made in accordance to the specific international standards. These standards are specified in ASTM manuals, AATCC and ISO, and are specified by the customer depending upon country/region the garment is supplied to. These samples are undergone very intensive tests. Laboratories/testing agencies such as MTL, CTL, SGS perform these tests. It is imperative that these samples are approved since failure will result in shipment cancellations, and the expenses of retesting these samples are quiet considerable. Proper precautions are to be taken, and concerned staff must crosscheck the garments before dispatching. The customer receives a direct copy from the testing authorities, and is well aware of the quality of samples.

Shipment Samples: These samples are collected at the time of the shipment and sent to the customer. Usually covers all colors and sizes.

Page 6/9

The Sample Room

Consists of the following Members:

Sample Master (Pattern Maker) Pattern Cutter Sample Man Finisher

The size of the sample room is dependent upon the size of the organization. There may be separate personnel for each task required to produce the optimum quality sample.

The TQM concept is applied here, there are normally no QA people in the sample room, since the people involved are highly skilled and are required to perform or out perform the working conditions and skills applied in production. Each person is responsible for his or her own job

Sample Room Staff Must be multi skilled Their emphasis is more on quality and versatility rather then producing quantity. Selecting correct tools such as needles, threads and trims and attachment techniques, reducing complexities for ease in production. The sample room staff should be more versatile and adaptable to constantly changing products.

Page 7/9

Sample Evaluation and Inspection 1. Design Specification sheet: (slide) It is the primary planning and control tool for a sample garment. Verbal instructions can be misunderstood or forgotten so it is essential to provide written and illustrated specification of exactly what is required. It is important to have the most specific and accurate information rather then irrelevant details.

2. Sample summary sheet: (slide) This sheet reflects a comprehensive summary of what has been invested in a sample as regards to materials, trimmings and labor. It not only generates the garment costing but it also provides the basis for all production and logistical planning concerned with a particular garment. All trims, fabrics, prints, emb etc. should be mentioned and nothing should be overlooked. EXAMPLE. Missing trims.

3. Measurement tolerances: Measurement tolerances can be defined as the allowable deviations from standards, which require a sense of proportions. Every deviation is considered in relation to the planned length or size of the part being measured. (Length and size of the part in question)

4. Quality Standards There may be individual and joint responsibility on part of the sample room staff on quality. Every employee has to be fully acquainted with required quality standards. Capable of making independent and objective judgments of quality of their own work. Pointing quality errors among co-workers The sample inspection has to be relevant to its price and target market. Each category of garment has its own quality criteria.
Page 8/9

Technical Information Obtained prior to Production.

Most factories also use the sample room as the apparel-engineering department. Internal testing samples are made at the time of pre-production samples and are tested for various stages of production. These tests are done in the sample room to determine the following technical and cost-effective outcomes towards the planning of the order.

1. Ideas for technical support during running of order 2. Labor Cost Idea 3. Standardizations and Tolerances 4. Quality Checking procedures to be followed in production 5. Total cost idea 6. Consumption at initial level 7. Reducing complex operations 8. Time idea of production

Page 9/9