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: Fiber Identification Methods

There are different types of textile fibres used in the apparels and also the types and numbering of yarns.Therefore it is necessary to learn the different methods to identify different textile fibres. The knowledge of identifying the textile fibres helps a producer of garments to identify the type of fibre and the care to be taken in maintaining the fabrics made of particular type of fibre. This is important factor for labelling of the garments, which includes specifying the fibre content in the garment. There are different tests which could be used for the identification of the textile fibres such as burning test, microscopic test, solubility test, optical test, density test etc. We would be discussing the basic tests like burning, feeling, microscopic and chemical tests of identifying the textile fibres. Non technical testing does not require any special equipment or setting for identification of fibre. The different non technical methods of identifying the textile fibres are:

Feeling Test Burning Test

These tests are useful and simple to perform and also provide ready identification under certain circumstances.

Microscopic Identification: Positive identification of many natural fibers is possible using the microscope Solubility: The chemical structure of polymers in a fiber determines the fiber's basic solubility characteristics Heating and Burning Characteristics: The reaction of fibers to heat from an open flame is a useful guide in identification of fibers. Density or Specific Gravity: Fiber density may be used as an aid in fiber identification Staining: Fibers have differing dyeing characteristics and affinities dependent on the chemical and morphological structure of the fiber.

TYPES OF TEST The Non technical Test FEELING TEST BURNING TESTS The Technical Test MICROSCOPIC TEST CHEMICAL TEST FEELING TEST The feeling test requires perception if it is to be of any value. Skilled perception is acquired only after handling many different fabrics over a period of time. Limitations of this test become apparent when examining and comparing fabrics of different fiber content. BURNING TEST To recognize the composition of fabrics by the burning test ,the sample of fibre, yarn of fabric should be moved slowly towards a small flame and the reaction to heat carefully observed .One end of the sample should be put directly into flame to determine its burning rate and characteristics. The burning odour should be noted and the characteristics of the ash such as amount ,form, hardness and colour should be examined. IDENTIFICATION OF FIBRES THROUGH BURNING TEST Cotton When ignited it burns with a steady flame and smells like burning leaves. The ash left is easily crumbled. Small samples of burning cotton can be blown out as you would a candle. Linen Linen takes longer to ignite. The fabric closest to the ash is very brittle. Linen is measily extinguished by blowing on it as you would a candle. Silk It is a protein fibre and usually burns readily, not necessarily with a steady flame, and smells like burning hair. The ash is easily crumbled. Silk samples are not as easily extinguished as cotton or linen. Wool It is also a protein fibre but is harder to ignite than silk as the individual "hair" fibres are shorter than silk and the weave of the fabrics is generally looser than with silk. The flame is steady but more difficult to keep burning. The smell of burning wool is like burning hair. Man Made Fibres Acetate Acetate burns readily with a flickering flame that cannot be easily extinguished. The burning cellulose drips and leaves a hard ash. The smell is similar to burning wood chips. Acrylic Acrylics burn readily due to the fibre content and the lofty, air filled pockets. A match dropped on an acrylic blanket can ignite the fabric which will burn rapidly unless extinguished. The ash is hard. The smell is acrid or harsh. Nylon Nylon melts and then burns rapidly if the flame remains on the melted fibre. If you can keep the flame on the melting nylon, it smells like burning plastic. Polyester Polyester melts and burns at the same time, the melting, burning ash can bond quickly to any surface it drips on including skin. The smoke from polyester is black with a sweetish smell. The extinguished ash is hard. Rayon It is a regenerated cellulose fibre which is almost pure cellulose. Rayon burns rapidly and leaves only a slight ash. The burning smell is close to burning leaves. CHEMICAL TESTS Chemical tests are another technical means of identifying fibers. But chemical tests are not intended for the general consumers. Different types of chemical tests are undertaken to establish the identity of the fibers used. These tests give accurate and precise analysis. The tests are conducted in research laboratories TYPES OF CHEMICAL TEST Stain Test:

Also known as the Double Barrel Fibre Identification (DBFI), the test is based on the theory that each fibre has its own distinct two- colour reaction when treated with stain. A fibre will turn to a particular colour in the presence of dilute acetic acid and to some other specific colour when stained in the presence of a mild alkali. Solvent Test: The test involves treating the fibres in certain solvents for identifying them. The technical test is becoming difficult to conduct as most of the manufactured fibres and their blends are chemically similar. There is no individual chemical or solvent test for separating or identifying the fibres in combinations. Distinguishing animal from vegetable fibres with an acid As strong alkali destroy animal substances, a 5% of soda lye solution in water can be used to eliminate wool and silk fibers from a sample that contains a mixture of fiber. The vegetable fibres will not be affected by this solution Distinguishing vegetable from animal fibres with an acid As dilute acid destroy vegetable fibers, a 2% sulphuric acid solution can be used. A drop of solution is placed on the sample, which is then pressed with a hot iron. The spotted area will become charred if the sample is cotton linen or rayon. DISTINGUISHING SILK FROM WOOL: The use of concentrated cold hydrochloric acid will dissolve the silk and the wool fiber swells. DISTINGUISHING NYLON FROM OTHER FIBRES: If the fabric is thought to contain nylon, the fabric may be immersed in a boiling solution of sodium hydroxide. The nylon is insoluble in such a solution DISTINGUISHING POLYESTERS FROM OTHER FIBRES: Polyester is soluble in hot meta cresol; however , unlike acetate it is not soluble in acetone, and unlike nylon it is not soluble in concentrated formic acid. DISTINGUISHING ACRYLICS FROM OTHER FIBRES: Acrylic fibers will dissolve in 70 percent solution of ammonium thio cyanate at 130 degree Celsius but the other fibers will not. DISTINGUISHING LINEN FROM COTTON Cotton and linen are immersed in a 1% solution of fuchsine in alcohol to give red rose colour. Later , they are washed and immersed into ammonia, linen retains the red coloration but cotton does not. DISTINGUISHING GLASS FIBERS FROM OTHER FIBRES: There are two specific solvents for quick identification of glass fibers, they are hydrofluoric acid and hot phosphoric acid This technical fibre identification test has the following advantages and limitations Advantages More reliable than the non technical tests. Used for both man made fibres and natural fibres. Easily conducted. Limitations Certain manufacturing and finishing processes like mercerizing, affects the appearance of the fibres under the microscope. Very dark coloured fabrics cannot be identified under microscope. Dye stuffs must be removed from fabrics

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