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Collins

PLUMBING
& CENTRAL HEATING

fix it yourself and save money from changing a washer to installing a shower

Published by H a r p e r C o l l m s / V W / i / i m , L o u d o n T h i s e d i t i o n first p u b l i s h e d in 200.1. M o s t of the text and illustrations in this book previously appeared in the Collins Complete DIY Manual, published in 2001. I S B N 0 00 716441 6 C o p y r i g h t 1988,1995, 1999 H a rp e r C o l I i n sPi i blis hers T h e material for this h o o k was treated exclusively for H a r p e r C o l l i n s i ' u W / i / i f r s by Jackson D a y Jennings L t d t r a d i n g as I n k l i n k

Authors

Albert Jackson & David Day Albert Jackson Simon Jennings

Editorial director

Design, art direction and project management Text editor


Peter Leek Amanda Allchin

Design and production assistant


Consultants Roger Bisby S John Dees

Illustrations editor David Day


Illustrators Robin Harris & David Day

Additional illustrations Photographer

Brian Ctaker, Michael Parr S Brian Sayers

Ben Jennings

Additional photography Neil Waving and Paul Cfwe


Proofreader Mary Morton

Research editor and technical consultant Simon Gilham


T h e CD? catalogue record for this b o o k is available from the British L i b r a r y C o l o u r o r i g i n a t i o n by C o l o u r s e a n , Singapore Printed and b o u n d by C P ! Bath A l l rights reserved. N o part o f this p u b l i c a t i o n may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system o r transmitted i n any form o r by any means, electronic, m e c h a n i c a l , p h o t o c o p y i n g , recording o r otherwise, w i t h o u t the p r i o r w r i t t e n p e r m i s s i o n o f the copyright owner. PLEASE N O T E Great care has been taken t o ensure that the i n f o r m a t i o n contained i n this b o o k is accurate. However, the law c o n c e r n i n g B u i l d i n g Regulations, p l a n n i n g , local bylaws and related matters is neither static nor simple. A book of this nature cannot replace specialist advice in a p p r o p r i a t e cases and therefore no responsibility can be accepted by the publisher o r by the authors for any loss o r damage caused by reliance u p o n rhe accuracy o f such i n f o r m a t i o n .
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P l u m b i n g systems W a t e r regulations D i r e c t a n d indirecr Draining Repairs Emergency Taps Seats a n d glands Cisterns a n d tanks Float valves Drainage Systems Maintenance Pipework Metal Plastic Water closets Replacing Installing Washbasins Selecting Taps Installing Baths Selecting Installing Showers Selecting Mixers Pump-assisted Cubicles Installing Bidets Installing

6 6 7 S 9 9 10 11 12 13 15 16 16 19 19 24 28 28 30 31 31 32 33 35 35 36 37 37 38 39 40 41 43 43

Sinks Selecting Installing Appliances Installing Storage tanks Installing Hot-water cylinders Selecting S o l a r heating H o t water Central heating Systems Boilers Radiators Controls Diagnosis Draining and filling Maintenance Underfloor Electricity Switch equipment Safety Bathrooms Wiring Heaters C o n n e c t i o n units I m m e r s i o n heaters Tools and s k i l l s Plumbing Reference Artificial ventilation Glossary Index

44 44 45 46 46 49 49 50 50 52 52 53 53 54 55 57 58 59 60 66 68 68 69 68 71 71 72 73 74 74 80 80 81 82

Cross-references Since there are few DIY projects that do not require a combination of skills, you might have to refer to more than one section of the book. The list of cross-references at the bottom of each page will help you locate relevant sections or specific information related to the job in hand.

Plumbing systems
T h e u n p r e c e d e n t e d s u p p l y o f t o o l s a n d e a s y - t o - u s e h a r d w a r e has encouraged D I Y enthusiasts to tackle their o w n p l u m b i n g repairs a n d i m p r o v e m e n t s . A l m o s t every a s p e c t is n o w c a t e r e d for w i t h a w i d e range o f m e t a l a n d p l a s t i c p i p e w o r k a n d a t t r a c t i v e f i t t i n g s and appliances, both for new installations and for rcfurbishmcnts.

WATER REGULATIONS
Water bylaws govern the way you can . connect your p l u m b i n g system to the p u b l i c water supply. These laws are intended t o prevent the misuse, waste and c o n t a m i n a t i o n o f water. Y o u r local water supplier w i l l provide you w i t h the relevant i n f o r m a t i o n about inspection requirements and possible certification for new work and for
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The advantages of DIY plumbing


H a v i n g the wherewithal to tackle your o w n p l u m b i n g installations and repairs can save you the cost o f hiring professionals - and that can a m o u n t to a substantial sum o f money Ir also avoids the distress and inconvenience o f ruined decorations, and the expense of replacing rotted household timbers where a slow leak has gone undetected. T h e n there's the saving in water. A d r i p p i n g tap wastes gallons of water a day - and if it's hot water, there's the a d d i t i o n a l expense o f heating it. A little o f your time and a few pence spent on a washer can save you pounds.

major alterations.

Before undertaking work


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Water systems
Generally, domestic p l u m b i n g incorporates t w o systems. O n e is the supply of fresh water from the ' m a i n s ' , and the other is the waste o r drainage system that disposes o f d i r t y water. B o t h o f the systems c a n be installed in different ways (see opposite). Stored-water system (Indirect) T h e majority o f homes are p l u m b e d w i t h a stored-water supply system. T h e storage tank in the loft and the cold-water tap in the kitchen arc fed directly f r o m the mains; so possibly are your w a s h i n g machine, electric shower(s) and outside tap. B u t water for baths, washbasins, flushing W G s and some types o f shower is d r a w n from the storage t a n k , w h i c h s h o u l d be covered w i t h a purpose-made l i d to protect the water from c o n t a m i n a t i o n . D r i n k i n g water s h o u l d only be taken f r o m the cold-water tap in the kitchen. C o l d water from the storage tank is fed t o a hot-water cylinder, where it is heated by a boiler, indirectly, o r by an i m m e r s i o n heater t o s u p p l y the hot taps. The water pressure at the various taps in the house depends on the height (or 'drop') f r o m the tank t o the tap. A slored-watcr system provides several advantages. There is adequate water to flush sanitary ware d u r i n g

T h e B u i l d i n g Regulations on drainage arc designed to protect health and safety. Before u n d e r t a k i n g work on your soil and waste pipes o r drains (except for emergency unblocking) you need t o contact the b u i l d i n g - c o n t r o l department o f your local authority. Y o u are required t o give five days notice t o your local water supplier a t e m p o r a r y m a i n s failure; rhe major before altering o r i n s t a l l i n g a lavatory part o f the supply is under relativelycistern, bidet, shower p u m p , hosepipe low pressure, so the system is reasonsupply, or any i n s t a l l a t i o n , such as a ably quiet; a n d because there arc fewer garden tap or shower, that c o u l d cause m a i n s outlets, there is less l i k e l i h o o d o f d i r t y water t o be siphoned back into impure water being siphoned back i n t o the supply o f d r i n k i n g water. the mains supply. a , ^

Wiring Regulations When making tepairs or improvements to your plumbing, make sure you don't contravene the electrical Wiring Regulations. All metal plumbing has In be bonded to earth. It you replace e section o! metal plumbing with plastic, it is important to reinstate the earth link. (See far right)

M a i n s - f e d system (Direct) M a n y properties now take a l i their water directly from the mains all the taps are under high pressure, and all o f them provide water that's suitable for d r i n k i n g . T h i s development has c o m e about as a result o f l i m i t e d loft space that precludes a storage tank and the i n t r o d u c t i o n o f n o n - r e t u r n check valves, which prevent d r i n k i n g water being c o n t a m i n a t e d . 1 l o t water is s u p p l i e d by a c o m b i n a t i o n boiler o r a m u l t i p o i n t heater; these i n s t a n t a n eous heaters are unable t o m a i n t a i n a constant flow o f hot water i f too manytaps are r u n n i n g at once. Some systems incorporate a n unvented cylinder, w h i c h stores hot water but is fed from the m a i n s . A mains-fed system is cheaper to install than an indirect one. A n o t h e r advantage is mains pressure at all laps; and you c a n d r i n k from any c o l d tap in the house. W i t h a mains-fed system there's no p l u m b i n g in the loft to freeze.

Reinstate the link If you replace a section o metal plumbing with plastic, you may break the path to earth - so make sure you reinstate the link. Bridge a plastic joint in a metal pipe with an earth wire and two clamps. It ynu are in any doubt, consult a qualified electrician.

MAINS-FED SYSTEM (opposite)


0 Wale t-sii pp I ie r' s stop c oc k May include water meter. Q Service pipe QlWain stopcock Q Rising main Supplies water directly to cold-water taps and WCsetc. Q W a t e r healat or combination boiler (JUnvented si a rage cylinder (Not required for instantaneous heatets)

Drainage
Waste water is drained in one o f t w o ways. In houses built before the late 1950s, water is d r a i n e d from baths, sinks and basins into a waste pipe that feeds into a trapped gully at g r o u n d level. Toilet waste feeds separately into a large-diameter vertical s o i l pipe that runs directly t o the u n d e r g r o u n d m a i n drainage network. W i t h a single-stack waste system, which is installed in later buildings, all waste water drains into a single soil pipe - the one possible exception being the kitchen sink, which may drain into a gully. R a i n w a t e r usually feeds into a separate d r a i n , so that the house's drainage system w i l l not be flooded in the event of a s t o r m .

QSingle-stack soil pipe WC, handbasin, bath and shower drain into the stack. The stack may befitted with an air-admittance valve terminating inside Ihe house. Q S i n k waste Water from the sink drains into a trapped gully. Trapped gully

* ~ SEE ALSO: Draining rainwater 7, Garden tap 48, Earthing 68-70, Supplementary bonding 69-70,01

Direct and indirect systems


STORED-WATER SYSTEM Stored-water system
Central heating omitted fur clarity. ^ Water company stopcock The water company uses this stopcock to turn off the supply to the house. Make sure it can be located quickly in an emergency-

PLUMBING SYSTEMS

@ Service pipe From the water company stopcock onwards, the plumbing becomes the responsibility of the householder. (Sj) Household stopcock The water supply to the house itself is shut off at this point. Q Oraincock A draincock here allows you to drain water from the rising main. Q Rising main Mains-pressure water passes to the cold-water storage tank via therisingmain. Q Drinking watet Drinking water is drawn off the rising main to the kitchen sink. Garden tap The water company allows a garden tap to be supplied with mains pressure, provided it is fitted with a check valve. Water meters Instead of paying a II at-rate water charge based upon the size of your home, you can opt to have your water consumption metered so you pay for what you use. For two people living in a large house, the savings can be considerable. Water meters are fitted to the incoming mains, usually outside at the supplier's stopcock, whete they can be read more easily.

Q Float valve This ualve shuts off the supply (rem the rising main when the cistern is full. Q Cold-water storage tank Stores from 230 to 360 litres {50 tn SO gallons) of water. Positioned in Ihe roof, the tank provides sufficient 'head', or pressure, to feed the whole house. Q) Overflow pipe Also known as a warning pipe, it prevents an overflow by draining water to the outside. flj Cold-feed pipes Water is drawn off to the bathroom and to the hot-waler cylinder from the storage tank. ^ Cold-feed valves Valves at these points allow you to drain the cold water in Ihe feed pipe without having to drain the whole tank as well.

Mains-fed system

Central healing omitted lor clarity.

() HDt-water cylinder Water is heated and stored in this cylinder ij) Hot-feed pipe All hot water is fed from this point Vent pipe Allows for expansion cf heated water and enables air to be vented ftom the system. (Q Waste pipe Surmounted by a hopper head, it collects water from basin and bath. jfjrj Soil pipe Separate pipe takes toilet waste to main drains. Kitchen waste pipe Kitchen sink drains into same gully as waste pipe from upstairs. (JJ Trapped gully

SEE ALSO: Wet central heating 53

Draining the system


Y o n w i l l have t o d r a i n at least p a r t o f a n y p l u m b i n g s y s t e m before y o u c a n w o r k o n it; a n d i f y o u detect a l e a k , y o u w i l l have t o d r a i n the r e l e v a n t s e c t i o n q u i c k l y . S o f i n d o u t w h e r e the valves, s t o p c o c k a n d d r a i n c o c k s are s i t u a t e d , b e f o r e y o u ' r e faced w i t h a n emergency.

ADDING EXTRA VALVES


Unless y o u divide u p the system into relatively short pipe runs w i t h valves, y o u w i l l have t o drain off a substantial part of a typical p l u m b i n g installation even for a simple washer replacement. Install a gate valve o n b o t h the cold feed pipes r u n n i n g from the cold-water storage tank. T h i s w i l l eliminate the necessity for d r a i n i n g off gallons of water in order t o isolate pipes and appliances o n the low-pressure coldand hot-water supply. W h e n you are fitting new taps and appliances, take the o p p o r t u n i t y to fit m i n i a t u t e valves o n the supply pipes. In future, when y o u have t o repair an i n d i v i d u a l tap or appliance, you will he able to isolate it in moments.

Draining cold-water taps and pipes


T u r n off the m a i n stopcock o n the rising m a i n to cut off the supply to the kitchen tap (and to all the other c o l d taps o n a direct System). O p e n the tap until the flow ceases. To isolate the hath room taps, close the valve o n the appropriate cold-feed pipe from the storage tank and open all taps on that section. If you can't find a valve, rest a wooden batten across the tank and tie the a r m o f the float valve t o it. T h i s w i l l shut off the supply t o the tank, so you can empty it by r u n n i n g all the c o l d taps in the b a t h r o o m . If you can't get into the loft, m m off the m a i n stopcock, then r u n the c o l d taps.

Draining hot-water taps and pipes


Saving hot watei If your gate valve won't close off and you don't want to drain all the hoi water, you can siphon the water nut ot the cold tank with a garden hosepipe. While the tank is empty, replace the old gate valve T u r n off i m m e r s i o n heater o r boiler. C l o s e the valve o n the cold-feed pipe to the c y l i n d e r arid r u n the hot taps. Even when the water stops f l o w i n g , the cylinder w i l l still be full. If there's no valve o n the cold-feed pipe, tie up the float-valve a r m , then turn on the c o l d taps i n the b a t h r o o m to empty the storage tank, flf you r u n the hot taps first, the water stored in the tank w i l l flush out all your hot water from the cylinder.) W h e n the c o l d taps r u n dry, o p e n the hot taps. In an emergency, r u n the hot and c o l d taps together in order to clear the pipes as q u i c k l y as possible.

Draining a WG cistern
T o merely empty the W C cistern itself, tie u p its float-valve a r m a n d flush the W C . T o empty the pipe that supplies the cistern, either turn off the m a i n stopcock o n a direct system or, o n an indirect system, close the valve o n the c o l d feed f r o m the storage tank. Alternatively, shut off the supply t o the storage t a n k and empty it t h r o u g h the c o l d taps. Flush the W C until no more water enters its cistern.

Draining the cold-water storage tank


T o d r a i n the storage tank i n the roof space, close the main stopcock o n the rising m a i n , then open all the c o l d taps in the b a t h r o o m (hot taps o n a direct system.) B a i l out the residue o f water at the b o t t o m o f the tank.

Gate valve Frta gate valve to the cold-feed pipes from the storage tank

Miniature valve Fita miniature valve to the supply pipes below a sink or basin.

Draining the hot-water cylinder


Sealed centralheating systems A sealed system (see StALED CENTRAL-KEATING SYSIEMSI does not have a teed-and-expansion tank-the radlatots are filled Item the mains via a flexible hose known as a filling loop. The indirect coil in the hot-water cylinder is drained as described right though you might have to open a vent pipe that is fitted to the cylinder before the water will flow. if the hot-water cylinder springs a leak (or you wish t o replace it), first turn off the i m m e r s i o n heater and boiler, then shut off the c o l d feed to the cylinder from the storage tank (or drain the coldwater storage tank - see above). Run hot water from the taps. Locate a draincock from which you can dram the water remaining in the cylinder, it is probably located near the base o f the cylinder, where the c o l d feed from the storage tank enters. A t t a c h a hose and r u n it t o a drain o r sink that is lower than the cylinder. T u r n the squareheaded spindle o n the draincock till you hear water flowing. Water can't be drained if the washer is baked o n t o the d r a i n c o c k seating, so disconnect the vent pipe and insert a hosepipe to s i p h o n the cylinder. S h o u l d y o u want t o replace the h o t water c y l i n d e r , d o n ' t d i s c o n n e c t a l l its p i p e w o r k until you have d r a i n e d the c y l i n d e r completely. If the water is heated i n d i r e c t l y by a heat-exchanger, there w i l l be a c o i l o f p i p e w o r k inside the h o t - w a t e r c y l i n d e r that is s t i l l full of water. T h i s c o i l c a n be d r a i n e d via the s t o p c o c k o n the b o i l e r after yoit have shut o f f the m a i n s s u p p l y t o the small fced-and-expansion tank, which is l o c a t e d i n t h e roof space. S w i t c h o f f the e l e c t r i c a l s u p p l y t o the c e n t r a l h e a t i n g system.

Closing .1 i i u . i i valve Cut oil the supply nf water to a storage tank hy lying the Hoal arm to a batten

* - SEE ALSO: Cylinders 50-1, Radiators 55, Consumer unit 88

Emergency repairs
Partially drain the p l u m b i n g system if you intend t o leave the house u n occupied for a few days d u r i n g w i n t e r - if possible, leave the central heating on a low setting. F o r longer periods of absence at any time o f the year, you may want to take the precaution of draining the system completely.

It pays t o m a s t e r the s i m p l e t e c h n i q u e s f o r c o p i n g w i t h

emergency

r e p a i r s - i n o r d e r t o a v o i d the i n e v i t a b l e d a m a g e t o y o u r h o m e a n d p r o p e r t y , as w e l l as the h i g h c o s t o f c a l l i n g o u t a p l u m b e r at s h o r t n o t i c e . A l l y o u need is a s i m p l e t o o l k i t a n d a few spare p a r t s .

Thawing frozen pipes


If water won't flow f r o m a tap d u r i n g c o l d weather, o r a tank refuses t o fill, a plug o f ice may have formed in one o f the supply pipes. T h e p l u g cannot be in a pipe s u p p l y i n g taps o r float valves that are w o r k i n g normally, so you should be able t o trace the blockage q u i c k l y In fact, freezing usually occurs first in the roof space. A s copper pipework transmits heat quickly, use a hairdryer ro gently w a r m the suspect pipe, starting as close its possible t o the affected tap o r valve and w o r k i n g a l o n g it. Leave the tap o p e n , so water can flow n o r m a l l y as soon as the ice thaws. If you can't heat the pipe w i t h a hairdryer, w r a p it in a hot towel o r hang a hot-water bottle over it, I'reventative measures Insulate pipework and fittings to stop t h e m freezing, particularly those in the loft o r under the floor. If you're going to leave the house unhealed for a long time d u r i n g the winter, d r a i n the system (see left). C u r e any d r i p p i n g taps, so leaking water doesn't freeze in your drainage system Overnight, Thawing a froien pipe Play a hairdryer gently along a frozen pipe, working away from the blocked lap or valve.

Partial drain-down
Add special antifreeze to the centralheating feed-and-ex pan si on t a n k and set the heating to come o n for a short period twice a day. Turn off the m a i n stopcock. Open all the taps t o d r a i n the house's inter system.

Dealing with a punctured pipe


Attach hosepipe to rfraincock Unless you are absolutely sure where your pipes r u n , it is all too easy to nail through one o f them when fixing a loose floorboard. You may be able to detect a hissing sound as water escapes under pressure, but more than likely yon won't notice your mistake until a wet patch appears on the ceiling below, o r some problem associated wtth d a m p occurs at a later date. W h i l e the nail is in place, water w i l l leak relatively slowly, so don't pull it out until you have drained the pipework and can repair the leak. If you pull out the nail by lifting a floorboard, replace the nail immediately. If y o u p l a n t o lay fitted carpet, you can paint pipe runs o n the floorboards to avoid such accidents in future.

Full drain-down
Switch off and extinguish the water heater and/or boiler. Turn off the m a i n stopcock a n d , if possible, the water c o m p a n y stopcock outside, Open all taps in the house to d r a i n the pipework. Open the d r a i n c o c k at the base of the hot-water cylinder. If there are draincocks in the r i s i n g m a i n and in any other low pipework, d r a i n the water from these too. Flush the W C s . Drain the boiler and r a d i a t o r circuits at the lowest points on the pipe runs. Add salt to the W C pan to prevent the trap water freezing.

Patching a leak
D u r i n g freezing conditions, water w i t h i n a pipe turns to ice, which expands until it eventually splits the walls of the pipe o r forces a joint apart. C o p p e r pipework is more likely to split than lead, which can stretch to accommodate the expansion and thus survive a tew bard winters before reaching breaking point. T e m p o r a r i l y patch copper o r lead pipes as described right but close up a split in lead beforehand by tapping the pipe gently w i t h a hammer. Arrange to replace the o l d lead w i t h copper pipeas soon as you have contained the leak. T h e o n l y other reason for l e a k i n g p l u m b i n g is mechanical failure - eithet t h r o u g h deterioration o f the materials o r because a joint has failed and is no longer completely waterproof. If possible, make a permanent repair, by inserting a new section o f pipe o r replacing a l e a k i n g joint. (If it is a compression joint that has failed, try tightening it first.) F o r the time being, however, you may have t o make an emcrgctv.v repair. D r a i n the pipe first unless it is frozen, in w h i c h case make the repair before it thaws. B i n d i n g a l e a k i n g pipe Fot a t e m p o r a r y repair, cut a length of garden hose t o cover the leak a n d slit it lengthwise, so you can slip it over the pipe. B i n d the hose w i t h t w o o r three hose c l i p s ; or, using pliers, twist wire loops a r o u n d the hose. Alternatively, use a m a l g a m a t i n g tape made for b i n d i n g damaged pipes. 1'atching w i t h epoxy putty E p o x y putty adheres t o most metals and h a r d plastic and w i l l produce a fairly long-term repair, a l t h o u g h it is better to insert a new length o f pipe. T h e putty is s u p p l i e d in t w o parts w h i c h begin to harden as soon as they are m i x e d together, g i v i n g about 20 minutes t o complete the repair. First clean a 25 t o 5 0 m m (] t o 2in) length o f pipe on each side o f the leak, using w i r e w o o l . M i x the putty and press it i n t o the hole o r a r o u n d a joint, b u i l d i n g it t o a thickness o f . t o 6 m m {V t o Win). It w i l l cure t o full strength w i t h i n 24 hours, but you c a n run lowpressure water immediately i f you bind the putty w i t h self-adhesive tape.

Closing a split pipe In an emergency, close a split by tapping Ihe pipe with a hammer before you bind it. This works particularly well with lead pipe.

Refilling the system


Close all taps and d r a i n c o c k s . Turn tin the m a i n stopcock. Turn on taps and allow water and air to escape. A s the system fills, dieck that float valves are o p e r a t i n g smoothly.

Binding a split pipe Bind a length of hosepipe around a damaged pipe, using hose clips or wire. Alternatively, use an amalgamating tape

Curing an airlock
Ait trapped i n the system c a n cause a tap to splutter. T h e answer is to force the air out by using mains pressure. Attach a length of hose between the affected tap and any mams-fed c o l d tvatcr tap. Leave both taps open for a short while, and then try the airlocked tap again. Repeat i f necessary, until the water runs freely.

Smoothing epoxy putty When patching a hole with epoxy pulty, smooth it with a damp soapy cloth lo give a neat finish.

* SEE ALSO: Compression joints 20, Joining pipes 20-4

REPAIRS

Repairing a leaking tap


A tap may leak f o r a n u m b e r o f reasons none o f them difficult t o d e a l w i t h . W h e n w a t e r d r i p s f r o m a s p o u t , f o r e x a m p l e , i t is u s u a l l y the r e s u l t o f a f a u l t y w a s h e r ; a n d i f the t a p is o l d , the seat a g a i n s t w h i c h the w a s h e r is c o m p r e s s e d m a y b e w o r n , t o o . If w a t e r leaks f r o m b e n e a t h the h e a d o f the t a p w h e n it's i n use, the g l a n d p a c k i n g o r O - r i n g needs r e p l a c i n g . W h e n y o u a r c w o r k i n g o n a t a p , i n s e r t t h e p l u g a n d l a y a t o w e l i n t h e b o t t o m o f the w a s h b a s i n , bath o r sink t o catch s m a l l objects.
Traditional pillar tap The components of a pillar tap 1 Capstan hca 2 Metal shroud 3 Gland nut (Spindle 5 Headgear nut 6 Jumpet 7 Washer 8 Tap body 9 Seat 10 Tail

Replacing a washer
To replace the washer in a t r a d i t i o n a l bib o r p i l l a r rap, first d r a i n the supply pipe, then open the valve as far as possible before you begin d i s m a n t l i n g either k i n d o f tap. Removing, a shrouded head from a Tap On most modern taps the head and cover is in one piece. Vou will have to remove it to expose the headgear nut. Often a retaining screw is hidden beneath the coloured hot/cold disc in the centre of the head. Prise out the disc with the point of a knife (1). If there's no retaining screw, simplv pull the head off (2). If the tap is shrouded w i t h a metal cover, unscrew it by h a n d o r use a w r e n c h , t a p i n g the jaws t o protect the chrome finish. L i f t up the cover t o reveal the headgear nut just above the body o f the tap. Slip a n a r r o w spanner o n r o the nut a n d unscrew it (1) until you can lift out the entire headgear assembly. T h e jumper t o which the washer is fixed fits into the b o t t o m of the headgear. In some taps the jumper is removed along w i t h the headgear (2), but in other types it w i l l be lying inside the tap body. T h e washer itself may be pressed over a small button in the centre of the lumper (3) m which case, p r i s t it off with a screwdriver. If the washer is held in place by a nut, it can be difficult to remove. A l l o w penetrating oil to soften any c o r r o s i o n ; then, h o l d i n g the jtimpet stem w i t h pliers, unscrew the nut w i t h a snug-fitting spanner (4), (If the nut won't budge, replace the whole jumper and washer.) Fit a new washer and retaining nut, then reassemble the tap.

SERVICING REVERSEPRESSURE TAPS


Y o u can replace the washer in a reversepressure tap without t u r n i n g off the water supply. Loosen the l o c k i n g nut with a spanner (1); it has a left-hand thread, so you need to turn it clockwise (when viewed from above). To release the tap body into your hand (2), turn the tap o n the initial jet of water w i l l stop automatically. Gently tap the body on a wooden surface to eject the finned nozzle from inside. Prise off the combined jumper and washer, and replace it (3).

1 Loosen headgear nut

2 Lift out headgear

3 Prise off washer

1 Or undo fixing nut

Curing a dripping ceramic-disc tap


1 Prise out the disc In theory ceramic-disc taps are m a i n tenance free, but faults can still occur. Since there's no washer t o replace, you have to replace the whole inner cartridge when the tap leaks. However, before y o u proceed, check that the lower seal is not d a m a g e d , as this can cause the tap to drip. T u r n off the water and remove the headgear from the lap body by t u r n i n g it a n t i c l o c k w i s e w i t h a spanner (1). Remove the cartridge and e x a m i n e it for wear o r damage (2). C l e a n i n g any debris off the ceramic discs might be all that is required; but i f a disc is cracked, then you w i l l need a new cartridge. C a r t r i d g e s arc handed left (hot) and right (cold) - so be sure t o order the correct one. A t the same time, examine the rubber seal on the bottom o f the cartridge. If rhis is w o r n o r damaged, it w i l l cause the tap t o drip. If need be, replace the seal w i t h a new one (3).

Reverse-pressure tap

i Loosen looking nut

1 Pull the head off

10

1 Utisctew the cartridge

2 Lift out and examine

3 Replace a worn rubber seal

2 Remove tap hnily

3 Prise off Jumper

;*r SEE ALSO: Bib lap 2G, Tap mechanisms 32, Spanners and wrenches 77-8

Repairing seats and glands


Regrinding the seat
If a tap continues to drip after you have replaced the washer, the seat is probably worn, allowing water to leak past the washer. One way to cure this is t o grind the seat flat with a special reseating tool available from plumber's suppliers. Remove the headgear and jumper, so you can screw the reseating tool into the body of the tap. Adjust the cutter until it is in contact w i t h the seat, then turn the handle ro smooth the metal (1). Alternatively, you can cover the o l d seat w i t h a n y l o n liner that is sold w i t h a m a t c h i n g jumper and washer (2). D r o p the liner over the o l d seat, replace rhe jumper a n d assemble the tap. Finally, close the tap t o force the liner into p o s i t i o n . O n a mixer tap each valve is usually fitted w i t h a washer, as on couventiona taps, but i n most mixers the gland p a c k i n g (see left) has been replaced by a rubber O - r i n g . H a v i n g removed the s h r o u d e d head, take out the c i r c l i p h o l d i n g the spindlt in place (1). Remove the spindle and slip the O - r i n g out o f its groove (2). Replace the o l d ring w i t h a new one, u s i n g silicone grease as a l u b r i c a n t , then reassemble the tap.

Gland packing Older-style laps are sealed with watertight packing around the spindle.

I Revolve Ihe loci te smooth the seat

2 Repair a worn seat with a nylon liner I Remove circlip 2 Roll ring from groove O-ring seal Modern taps are sealed with rubber rings, in place cf gland packing. T h e base o f a mixer's swivel spout is also sealed w i t h a washer o r O - r i n g . If water seeps f r o m that j u n c t i o n , turn off b o t h valves and unscrew the spout, or remove the retaining screw (3) o n one side. N o t e the type o f seal and buy a m a t c h i n g replacement.

ing a leaking gland


The head of a tap is fixed t o a shaft o r spindle, which is screwed up or down to control the flow o f water. The spindle passes through a gland - also k n o w n as a stuffing box - on top of the headgear assembly. A watertight packing is forced into the gland by a nut to prevent water leaking past the spindle when the tap is turned on. If water drips from under the head of the tap, the gland packing has failed and needs replacing. Some taps incorporate a rubber O-ringtbat slips over the spindle to perform the same function as the packing (see fight). Replacing the gland p a c k i n g There is no need to t u r n off the supply of water to replace g l a n d p a c k i n g : just make sure the tap is turned off fully. To remove a cross o r capstan head, expose a fixing screw by p i c k i n g out the plastic p l u g in the centre o f the head, o r l o o k for a screw h o l d i n g it at the side. L i f t off the head by r o c k i n g it from side to side, o r tap it gently f r o m below w i t h a hammer. If the head is stuck firmly, open the tap as far as possible, unscrew the cover, and wedge wooden p a c k i n g between it and the headgear (1), C l o s i n g the tap w i l l then jack the head off the spindle. O n c e you have removed the head and cover, try t o seal the leak by tightening the gland nut. If that fails, remove the nut and pick out the o l d p a c k i n g w i t h a s m a l l screwdriver. To replace the p a c k i n g , either use the special fibre s t r i n g available f r o m p l u m b e r s ' merchants o r t w i s t a thread f r o m P T F E (polyretrafluorethylene) tape. W i n d the s t r i n g a r o u n d the spindle, and pack it i n t o the g l a n d w i t h the screwdriver (2).

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3 Remove the screw to release the mixer spool. You can use a cranked screwdriver (below) if the retaining screw is locered behind ihe swivel spout.

Stopcocks and valves


Stopcocks and gate valves are used so rarely that they often fail to w o r k just when they are needed. M a k e sure that rhey are operating s m o o t h l y by c l o s i n g a n d o p e n i n g them from time to time. If their spindles move stiffly, lubricate t h e m w i t h a little penetrating o i l . A stopcock is fitted w i t h a standard washer, but as it is hardly ever under pressure ir is unlikely to wear. However, the gland p a c k i n g {see left) o n b o t h stopcocks and gate valves may need attention.

1 Jack [he head off a lap with wooden packing

2 Stuff string or a thread of PTFE tape into the gland

ALSO: Tap mechanisms 32, Gate value 8,20, PTFE tape 22, 81, Reseating tool 79, Stopcock 81

REPAIRS
CISTERNS A N D

Maintaining cisterns and storage tanks


T h e m e c h a n i s m s used i n W C c i s t e r n s a n d s t o r a g e t a n k s are probably the most overworked o f a l l p l u m b i n g c o m p o n e n t s , so s e r v i c i n g is r e q u i r e d f r o m t i m e to time to keep them o p e r a t i n g p r o p e r l y . Y o u c a n get the spare parts y o u need f r o m p l u m b e r s ' m e r c h a n t s a n d D I Y stores. L o w - l e v e l W C c i s t e r n s are p a r t i c u l a r l y easy to s e r v i c e , b u t even a n o l d - s t y l e w a l l - m o u n t e d W C cistern can be reached w i t h a stepladder.
Direct-action cistarn The components of a typical direct-action WC cistern, 1 Baal valve 2 Float 3 Float arm 4 Flushing lever 5 Wire link 6 Perforated plate 7 One-piece siphon 8 Flap valve 9 Overflow 10 Sealing washer 11 Retaining nut 12 Flush-pipe connector

Miniature float valve This type ot float valve is designed for installing in WC cisterns only.

T h e s t o r a g e t a n k i n the l o f t is s i m p l y a c o n t a i n e r f o r c o l d water. O t h e r t h a n a l e a k , w h i c h is u n l i k e l y w i t h m o d e r n t a n k s , the o n l y p r o b l e m s t h a t a r i s e are caused by float-valve failure. The v a l v e i n a s t o r a g e t a n k is s i m i l a r to those used f o r W C c i s t e r n s , h u t y o u s h o u l d never replace o n e w i t h a m i n i a t u r e float valve.

Three-pan siphon This type of siphon can be dismantled for replacement of the flap valve without having to shut off the water or drain the cistern

Direct-action WC cisterns
M o s t modern W C s are washed d o w n by means of direct-action cisterns. Water enters the cistern through a valve, which is opened and closed by the action of a hollow float attached to one end of a rigid a r m . A s the water rises in the cistern, it lifts the float until the other end of the a r m closes the valve and shuts off the supply. F l u s h i n g is carried out by depressing a lever, which is linked by wire to a r o d attached t o a perforated plastic o r metal plate at the b o t t o m o f an inverted l l - b c n d tube (siphon). A s the plate rises, the perforations arc scaled by a flexible plastic d i a p h r a g m [flap valve), so the plate can displace a body o f water over the U - b c n d t o promote a s i p h o n i n g a c t i o n . T h e water pressure behind the d i a p h r a g m lifts it, so that the contents o f the cistern flow up t h r o u g h the perforations in the plate, over the U-bend and d o w n the flush pipe. A s the water level in the eistetn drops, so does the float - thus opening the float valve to refill the cistern. Servicing cisterns T h e tew problems associated w i t h this type of cistern are easy to solve. A faulty float valve or poorly adjusted float arm w i l l allow water to leak into the cistern until it drips from the overflow pipe that runs t o the outside o f the house. Slow o r noisy filling can often be rectified by replacing the float valve. If the cistern w i l l not flush until the lever is operated several times, the flap valve probably needs replacing (see left). If the flushing lever feels slack, check that the wire link at the end o f the flushing arm is intact. W h e n water runs continuously into the pan, check the condition o f the washer at the base of the s i p h o n .

t REPLACING A FLAP VALVE


If a W C cistern w i l l not flush first time, take off the lid and check that the lever is actually operating the flushing mechanism. If that appears to he w o r k i n g normally, then try replacing the flap valve in the s i p h o n . Before you service a one-piece siphon, shut off the water by t y i n g the float a r m to a batten placed across the cistern (1). H u s h the cistern. Use a large wrench t o unscrew the nut that holds the flush pipe t o the underside o f the cistern (2|. M o v e the pipe t o one side. Release the retaining nut that clamps the s i p h o n t o the base o f the cistern (3). A little water w i l l run out as you loosen the nut - so have a bucket handy. (You may find that the s i p h o n is bolted t o the base o f the cistern, instead o f being clamped by a smgle retaining nut.) Disconnect the flushing a r m , then ease the s i p h o n out of the cistern. Lift the d i a p h r a g m off the metal plate (4) and replace it w i t h one o f the same size. Reassemble the entire flushing mechanism in the reverse order and reconnect the flush pipe t o the cistern.

2 Release flush pipe

3 Loosen retaining nut

Making a new wire link


It is impossible t o flush a W C cistern if the flushing lever has come adrift. Y o u may find rhe o l d link is l y i n g at the b o t t o m o f the cistern but i l n o t . you can bend one f r o m a piece of thick wire. If yoti have thin wire only, twist the ends together w i t h pliers to make a temporary repair.

4 Liftoff flap valve

Curing continuous running water


If you notice that water is r u n n i n g into the pan continuously, turn off the supply and let the cistern d r a i n . T h e n check to see whether the siphon has split. If not, try changing the sealing washer. Alternatively, the water may be flowing from the float valve so q u i c k l y that the s i p h o n i n g action is not interrupted. T h e solution is ro fit a float-valve seat w i t h a smaller water inlet (see opposite).

SEE ALSO: Adjusting the float arm 14, Spanners and wrenches 77-8

DIAPHRAGM VALVES I
The pivoting e n d o f the float a r m o n a diaphragm valve ( k n o w n i n the trade as a Part 2 valve) presses against the end of a small plastic p i s t o n , w h i c h moves the large rubber d i a p h r a g m to ical the water inlet.

Renovating float valves


A f a u l t y float v a l v e is r e s p o n s i b l e f o r m o s t o f t h e d i f f i c u l t i e s t h a t arise w i t h W C cisterns a n d water-storage tanks. T h e water inlet i n s i d e the v a l v e u s e d t o b e s e a l e d w i t h a w a s h e r , w h e r e a s modern v a l v e s a r c f i t t e d w i t h a l a r g e d i a p h r a g m i n s t e a d , d e s i g n e d to p r o t e c t the m e c h a n i s m f r o m scale deposits. Y o u c a n still o b t a i n the earlier v a l v e s , b u t fit a d i a p h r a g m v a l v e i n a n e w i n s t a l l a t i o n . If the i n l e t i s n ' t s e a l e d p r o p e r l y , w a t e r c o n t i n u e s t o feed i n t o the c i s t e r n a n d e s c a p e s v i a the o v e r f l o w . S o m e o v e r f l o w p i p e s a r e n ' t able to c o p e w i t h a f u l l flow o f m a i n s w a t e r , so r e p a i r a d r i p p i n g float

VALVE SEAT

1 Diaphragm valve; retaining cap to the front


RETAINING WATER OUTLET

v a l v e before the flow b e c o m e s a t o r r e n t .

Servicing Portsmouth-pattern valves


In a Portsmouth-pattern valve, a piston moves horizontally inside the hollow metal body. T h e float a r m , pivoting o n a split p i n , moves the piston back a n d forth to control the flow o f water. A washer trapped in the end o f the piston finally seals the inlet by pressing against the valve seat. If you have to force the valve closed to stop water d r i p p i n g , it's time to replace the washer. R e p l a c i n g the washer Cut off the supply of water to the cistern or tank a n d flush the water out, in case you d r o p a component. R a m o w the split p i n from beneath the valve and detach the float a r m . II there is a screw cap o n the end o f the valve body, remove it (1), using a pair o f slip-joint pliers (yon may have to apply a little penetrating o i l to ease the threads), insert the tip o f a screwdriver in the slot beneath the valve body a n d slide the p i s t o n out (2). T o remove the washer, unscrew the end cap o f the piston w i t h pliers. Steady the piston by holding a screwdriver i n its slot (3). Pick the o l d washer o u t o f the cap (4) - but before replacing the washer.
PISTON SCREWCAP W A T E R INLET

VALVE SEAT

2 Diaphragm valve: retaining nut to the rear

WASHER W A T E R OUTLET FLOAT ARM

SEAT

Replacing the diaphragm


Turn off the water supply, then unscrew the large retaining cap. Depending o n the model, the nut may be screwed onto the end o f the valve (1) o r behind it (2). With the latter type of valve, slide out the cartridge inside the body (3) to find the d i a p h r a g m behind it. W i t h the former, you w i l l find a s i m i l a r piston and d i a p h r a g m immediately behind the retaining cap |4). Wash the valve, before assembling it along w i t h the new d i a p h r a g m .

Ports mouth, patte m valve


FLOAT ARM

clean the piston with fine wire w o o l . Some pistons d o n ' t have a removableend cap, a n d so the washer has to be d u g o u t w i t h a p o i n t e d k n i f e . Since it's a tight fit w i t h i n a groove in the p i s t o n , make sure you don't damage this type o f washer when replacing it. Use wet-and-dry paper wrapped a r o u n d a dowel rod to clean inside the valve body, but take care not to damage the valve scat at the far e n d . Reassemble the p i s t o n a n d smear it lightly w i t h silicone grease. Assemble the valve, then connect the float a r m . Restore the supply o f water a n d adjust the a r m to regulate the water level i n the cistern.

Croydnn-pattem valve Only old-fashioned tanks will be lilted with this valve. The piston travels vertically to close againsl the seat. Replace the washer as described left.

3 Slide out the canritfge to release the diaphragm

Interchangeable valve seats The plastic seat against which the washer or diaphragm closes has a large inlet for lowpressure water or a small inlet lor mains or high pressure. Seats that are damaged or worn should be replaced.

1 Take screw cap from the end of Ihe valve

2 Slide ihe piston out with a screwdriver

4 Undo the cap arid pull float aim to find the valve

3 Split the piston into two parts

4 Pick out ihe washer Willi a screwdriver

SEE ALSO: Turning off the wafer 6-9, Adjusting a float arm 14, Slip-joint pliers 79

REPAIRS FLOAT VALVES

Renovating valves and floa


Adjusting the float arm
A d j u s t the float so as t o m a i n t a i n the o p t i m u m level o f water, w h i c h is about 2 5 m m ( l i n ) b e l o w the outlet o f the overflow pipe. T he a r m o n a P o r t s m o u t h - p a t t e r n valve is usually a solid-metal r o d . Y o u bend it d o w n w a r d slightly t o reduce the water level, o r straighten it in order to a d m i t m o r e water (1). T h e a r m o n a d i a p h r a g m valve has an adjusting screw, w h i c h presses o n the end o f the p i s t o n . Release the lock nut and turn the screw towards the valve to lower the water level, o r away from it to a l l o w the water t o rise (2).

Curing noisy cisterns


C i s t e r n s that fill noisily can be very a n n o y i n g , p a r t i c u l a r l y if the W C is situated right next to a b e d r o o m . It was once permitted t o screw a pipe i n t o the outlet o f a valve so that it h u n g vertically below the level o f the water. T h i s solved the problem o f water s p l a s h i n g i n t o the cistern, but water c o m p a n i e s were concerned about the possibility o f water 'backs i p h o n i n g ' t h r o u g h the silencer tube into the m a i n s supply A l t h o u g h rigid tubes arc banned nowadays, you arc permitted to fit a valve w i t h a flexible plastic silencer tube (see far left}, because it w i l l seal itself by c o l l a p s i n g s h o u l d b a c k - s i p h o n i n g occur. A silencer tube c a n also prevent water h a m m e r - a r h y t h m i c t h u d d i n g that reverberates a l o n g the pipework. T h i s is often the result o f ripples o n rhe surface o f the water in a cistern, caused by a heavy S o w f r o m the float valve. A s the water rises, the float a r m b o u n c i n g on the ripples ' h a m m e r s ' the valve, a n d the sound is amplified and transmitted a l o n g the pipes. A flexible plastic tube w i l l eliminate ripples by i n t r o d u c i n g water b e l o w the surface.

Renewing a float valve


T u r n off the supply of water to the cistern o r tank and flush the pipework, then use a spanner t o loosen the tap connector j o i n i n g the supply pipe to the float-valve stem. Remove the float a r m , then unscrew the f i x i n g nut o n the outside o f rhe cistern and pull our the valve. Fit the replacement valve a n d , i f possible, use rhe same tap connector to j o i n it to the supply pipe. A d j u s t and tighten the f i x i n g nuts to clamp the new valve ro the cistern, then turn the water supply back o n a n d adjust the float a r m .

Renewing a float valve Clamp the velve to the cistern with fixing nuts

Thumb-screw adjustment Some float arms are cranked, and the float is attached with a thumb-screw Clamp To adjust the water level in the cistern, slide the float up ot down the rod.

2 Diaphragm valve Adjust the screw to regulate the water level

Replacing the float


M o d e r n plastic floats rarely leak, but old-style metal floats eventually corrode and allow water t o seep i n t o the ball. T h e float gradually sinks, until it won't ride high enough to close the valve. Float valve with flexible silencer tube U n s c r e w the float and shake it, t o find o u t whether there is water inside. If you won't be able t o o b t a i n a new float for several days, lay the b a l l o n a bench, enlarge the l e a k i n g hole w i t h a screwdriver and p o u r out the water. Cover the ball w i t h a plastic bag, tying the neck tightly a r o u n d the floar a r m , a n d then replace the float.

If the water pressure t h r o u g h the valve is too h i g h , the a r m oscillates as it tries t o close the valve - another cause o f water hammer. T h i s c a n be cured by fitting a n e q u i l i b r i u m valve. A s water flows through the valve, some of it is i n t r o d u c e d behind the p i s t o n Float valves are made to suit different or d i a p h r a g m to equalize the pressure water pressures: low, m e d i u m and high on each side, so that the valve closes (LP, M P and H P ) . It is i m p o r t a n t to s m o o t h l y a n d silently. choose a valve o f the correct pressure, Before s w a p p i n g your present valve, o r the cistern may take a l o n g time check that the pipework is c l i p p e d t o fill. Conversely, if the water pressure securely - as the noise c o u l d be caused _ is too high for rhe valve, it may leak by v i b r a t i n g pipes. continuously. T h o s e fed direct from the mains s h o u l d be H P valves, whereas most domestic W C cisterns require an DIAPHRAGM . L P valve. If the head (the height o f the tank above the float valve) is greater t h a n 13.5m (45ft), fit an M P valve. In those rare cases where the head exceeds . 30m (100ft), fit a n H P valve. In an

: CHOOSING THE :CORRECT PRESSURE


B

apartment w i t h a packaged p l u m b i n g system (a storage tank built on top of the hot-water c y l i n d e r ) , the pressure may be so l o w that y o n w i l l have t o fit
s

EQUILIBRIUM

CHAMBER

iaphragm-lype equilibrium valve EQUILIBRIUM CAP


CHAMBER

a full-way valve ro the W C cistern in order to get it to fill reasonably quickly, If you live in an area where water
9

pressure fluctuates a great deal, fit an e q u i l i b r i u m valve (see left). To alter the pressure of a m o d e m , valve, s i m p l y replace the seat inside it. If the valve is a very o l d pattern, you w i l l have t o swap it for another one of a different pressure.

HOLLOW PISTON FLOAT A R M

Piston-type equilibrium valve

SEE ALSO: Float values 8,13, 81, Supporting pipes 23

Drainage systems
A drainage system is d e s i g n e d t o c a r r y d i r t y w a t e r a n d W C waste from the a p p l i a n c e s i n y o u r h o m e t o u n d e r g r o u n d d r a i n s l e a d i n g to the m a i n sewer. T h e v a r i o u s b r a n c h e s o f the w a s t e s y s t e m are protected b y U - b e n d traps f u l l o f w a t e r , t o s t o p d r a i n s m e l l s f o u l i n g the h o u s e . D e p e n d i n g o n the a g e o f y o u r h o u s e , i t w i l l have a t w o pipe system o r a single s t a c k . B e c a u s e the t w o - p i p e s y s t e m has been in use f o r very m u c h l o n g e r , it is s t i l l the m o r e c o m m o n o f the t w o . Use s i m i l a r m e t h o d s t o m a i n t a i n either s y s t e m .

RESPONSIBILITY FOR DRAINS


If a house is drained i n d i v i d u a l l y , the w h o l e system up to the p o i n t where it joins the sewer is the responsibility of the householder. H o w e v e r , where a house is connected t o a c o m m u n a l drainage system l i n k i n g several houses, the arrangement f o r maintenance, i n c l u d i n g the clearance o f blockages, is not so straightforward. If the drains were constructed p r i o r t o 1937, the l o c a l c o u n c i l is responsible for cleansing but can reclaim the cost of r e p a i r i n g any part o f the c o m m u n a l system from the householders. After r h a i date, all responsibility falls upon the householders collectively, so that they are required ro share the cosr o f the repair a n d cleansing o f the drains up to the sewer, no matter where the p r o b l e m occurs. C o n t a c t the Technical Services D e p a r t m e n t o f your l o c a l c o u n c i l to f i n d out w h o is responsible for y o u r drains.

DRAINAGE SYSTEMS

Two-pipe system
The waste pipes of older houses are divided into t w o separate systems. W C waste is fed into a large-diameter vertical soil pipe that leads directly to the underground drains. T o discharge drain gases at a safe height a n d make sure that b a c k - s i p h o n i n g cannot empty the W C traps, the soil pipe is vented to the open air above the guttering. Individual branch pipes leading from upstairs washbasins and baths d r a i n into an open hopper that funnels the water into another vertical waste pipe. Instead o f feeding directly into the underground drains, this pipe t e r m i n ates over a yard gully - another trap covered by a grid. A separate waste pipe from the kitchen sink n o r m a l l y drains into the same gully. The yard gully and soil pipe both discharge into an underground inspection chamber, or manhole. These chambers provide access t o the main drains for clearing blockages, and there w i l l be one wherever your main d r a m changes direction o n its way to the sewer. At the last inspection chamber, just before the drain enters the sewer, there is an interceptor trap, die final barrier to drain gases and sewer rats.

Single-stack system
Since the late 1950s, most houses have been drained using a singlc-srack system. Waste f r o m basins, baths and W C s is fed into the same vertical s o i l pipe o r stack - w h i c h , unlike the t w o pipe system, is often built inside the house. A single-stack system must be designed carefully to prevent a heavy discharge of waste f r o m one appliance s i p h o n i n g the trap of another, a n d t o avoid the possibility o f W C waste b l o c k i n g othet branch pipes. T h e vent pipe o f the stack terminates above the roof a n d is capped w i t h an open cage; or inside the house and is fitted w i t h an air-admittance valve (see far right). T h e kitchen sink can be drained through the same stack, but it is still c o m m o n practice to d r a i n sink waste into a yard gully. N o w a d a y s waste pipes must pass through the g r i d , stopping short o f the water in the gully trap so that even i f blocked w i t h leaves, the waste can discharge unobstructed into the gully. Alternatively, it can be a backinlet gully, w i t h the waste pipe entering below g r o u n d level. A downstairs W C is sometimes drained t h r o u g h its o w n b r a n c h d r a i n to an inspection chamber.

Ventilating pipes and stacks An air-admittance valve seals off the vent pipe, but allows air into the system to prevent watet being siphoned from Ihe trap seals. This type of valve can only be used if the drainage scheme has been approved by the local authority.

Prefabricated chamber On a modern drainage system, ihe inspection chambers may take the form of cylindrical prefabricated units. There may not be an interceptor trap in the last chamber before the sewer.

Turn-pipe system 1 Seil pipe ZHopper 3 Waste pipe 4 Yard gully 5 Inspection chamber

Single-stack system 11nterior soil pipe 2 All branch pipes run to stack 3 Inspection chamber

A chainhet with interceptor trap

SEE ALSO: Plumbing systems 6-8, Blocked soil pipe 17, Yard gully 17, Blocked drains 18

15

MAINTENANCE

Clearing blocked sinks and basins


D o n ' t i g n o r e the e a r i y signs o f an i m m i n e n t b l o c k a g e i n the waste p i p e f r o m a s i n k , b a t h o r b a s i n . If the w a t e r d r a i n s a w a y s l o w l y , use a c h e m i c a l c l e a n e r t o r e m o v e a p a r t i a l b l o c k a g e before y o u are faced w i t h c l e a r i n g a serious o b s t r u c t i o n . I f a w a s t e pipe b l o c k s w i t h o u t w a r n i n g , t r y a series o f m e a s u r e s t o l o c a t e a n d c l e a r the o b s t r u c t i o n .
If one basin fails t o empty while others arc functioning normally, the blockage must be somewhere along its i n d i v i d u a l branch pipe. Before you attempt t o locate the blockage, try forcing it out of the pipe w i t h a sink plunger. Smear the rim o f the rubber cup w i t h petroleum jelly, then lower it into the blocked basin to cover the waste outlet. M a k e sure that there's enough water in the basin to cover the cup. H o l d a wet cloth in the overflow w i t h one hand while you pump the handle o f the plunger up and down a few times. T h e waste may not clear immediately if the blockage is merely forced further along rhc pipe, so repeat the process until the water drains away If it w i l l not clear after several attempts, try clearing the trap, o r use a p u m p to clear the pipe (sec left).

Using a plunger

Clearing the trap


T h e trap situated immediately below the waste outlet of a sink o r basin is basically a bent tube designed to h o l d water t o seal out d r a i n odours. Traps become blocked when debris collects ar the lowest p o i n t o f the bend. Place a bucket under the basin to catch the water, then use a wrench to release the c l e a n i n g eye at the base o f a standard trap; o n a bottle trap, remove the large access cap by h a n d . If there is no p r o v i s i o n for g a i n i n g access to the trap, unscrew the connecting nuts and remove the entire trap. Let the contents o f the trap drain into the bucket, then bend a hook o n the end of a length o f wire and use it to probe the section of waste pipe beyond the trap. (Ir is also w o r t h checking outside, to see if the other end of the pipe is blocked w i t h leaves.) If you have had to remove the trap, take the opportunity to scrub it out w i t h detergent before replacing it.

Cleansin g the waste pine


Grease, h a i r and particles o f kitchen debris b u i l d up g r a d u a l l y w i t h i n the traps and waste pipes. Regular c l e a n i n g w i t h a proprietary chemical d r a i n cleaner w i l l keep the waste system clear and sweet-smelling. If water drains away sluggishly, use a cleaner immediately. F o l l o w the m a n u facturer's instructions carefully, w i t h p a r t i c u l a r regard to safety. A l w a y s wear protective gloves and goggles when h a n d l i n g c h e m i c a l cleaners, and keep them out o f the reach o f c h i l d r e n . If unpleasant o d o u r s linger after you've cleaned the waste, pour a little disinfectant into the basin overflow.

Cleaning the branch pipe


Q u i t e often, a verrical pipe from the trap joins a v i r t u a l l y h o r i z o n t a l section of the waste p i p e . There s h o u l d be an access p l u g built into the joint, so that y o u can clear the h o r i z o n t a l pipe. Have a b o w l ready to collect any trapped water, then unscrew the p l u g by h a n d . Use a length o l h o o k e d wire t o probe the branch pipe. If you locate a blockage that seems very firmly lodged, rent a drain auger from a tool-hire company to clear the pipework. If there's no access p l u g , remove the trap and probe the waste pipe w i t h an auget. If the pipe is constructed with push-fit joints, you can dismantle it.

Unscrew the access cap on a bottle trap Usee ptungettoforce out a blockage Using a pump Block the sink overflow with a wet cloth. Fill the pump wifh water irom the tap, then hold its nozzle over the nutlet, pressing down firmly. Pump up and down until the obstruction is cleared. Tubular trap If the access cap to the cleaning eye is stiff, use: wrench to remove rt.

USING A PUMP TO CLEAR A BLOCKAGE


If a plunger is ineffective in clearing a blocked waste outlet, use a simple h a n d operated hydraulic p u m p . A d o w n w a r d stroke o n the t o o l forces a powerful jet of water a l o n g the pipe to disperse the blockage. If the blockage is lodged firmly, an u p w a r d stroke crearcs enough suction t o pull it free.

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Bottle trap This type of ttapcan be cleared easily because the whole base ol the trap unscrews by hand.

Use hooked wire to probe a branch pipe

16

SEE ALSO: Frozen pipes 9, Plungers 16, 74, Drain auger 17,

Blocked stacks or gullies


If several fittings are d r a i n i n g p o o r l y , the v e r t i c a l stack is p r o b a b l y obstructed. In a u t u m n , the h o p p e r , d o w n p i p e a n d y a r d g u l l y m a y be blocked w i t h leaves. T h e b l o c k a g e m a y n o t be o b v i o u s w h e n y o u empty a b a s i n , b u t the c o n t e n t s o f a h a t h w i l l a l m o s t c e r t a i n l y cause an overflow. C l e a r t h e b l o c k a g e u r g e n t l y t o a v o i d p e n e t r a t i n g d a m p .

UNBLOCKING A WC
If the w ater in a W C pan rises w h e n y o u flush it, there's a blockage in the v i c i n i t y o f the trap. A p a r t i a l blockage allows the water level t o fall slowly. H i r e a larger version o f the sink plunger to force the obstruction into the soil pipe. Position the rubber cup of the plunger well d o w n into the U-bend, and p u m p the handle. W h e n the blockage clears, the water level w i l l drop suddenly, accompanied by an audible gurgling. If the trap is blocked solidly, hire a special W C auger. Pass the flexible clearing r o d as far as possible into the trap, then crank the handle t o dislodge the blockage. Wash the auger in hot water and disinfect ir, before returning it to the hire company.

DRAIN/ I JAG
MAI NT ENA*NCI NCI

Cleaning out the hopper and drainpipe


Wearing protective gloves, scoop o u t the debris from the hopper, then gently probe the d r a i n p i p e w i t h a cane t o check d i a t it is free. C l e a r the b o t t o m end o f the pipe w ith a piece o f bent wire. If an o l d east-iroil waste pipe has been replaced w i t h a m o d e m plastic pipe, yon may find there are c l e a n i n g eyes o r access plugs at strategic points for c l e a r i n g a blockage. W h i l e you're o n the ladder, scrub the inside o f the hopper and disinfect ir to prevent stale o d o u r s entering a nearby bathroom.

Unblocking a yard gully


Unless you decide to hire an auger, you have little option but t o clear a blocked gully by h a n d , i lowever, by the time it overflows the water i n the gully w i l l bequite deep, so try b a i l i n g some o f it out w i t h a small disposable container. Wearing rubber gloves, scoop out the debris from the trap until the r e m a i n i n g water disperses. Rinse the gully w i t h a hose a n d cleanse it w i t h disinfectant. S c r u b the grid as clean as possible, o r b u r n off accumulated grime from a metal grid with a gas torch. If a flooded gully appears t o be clear and yet the water w i l l not d r a i n away, try to locate the blockage at the nearest inspection chamber.

Clearing a blockage Use a Cooper's plunger (left) to pomp a blocked WC Alternatively, clear it with e special WC auger (below left).

Bail out the water, then clear a gully by hand

Unblocking a soil pipe


Unblocking a soil pipe is an unpleasant job and it's w o r t h hiring a professional cleaning company - especially if rhe pipe is made of cast i r o n , as it w i l l almost certainly have t o lie cleared via the vent above the roof. You can clean a modern plastic stack yourself, since there s h o u l d be a large hinged cleaning eye, o r other access plugs, wherever branch pipes join the stack. If the stack is inside the house, lay polythene sheets o n the floor and be prepared to m o p up trapped sewage when it spills from the pipe. Unscrew and open rhe cleaning eyeto insert a hired d r a i n auger. Pass the auger i n t o the stack until you locate the o b s t r u c t i o n , then crank the handle to engage it. Push o r pull the auger until you c a n dislodge the o b s t r u c t i o n to clear the trapped water, then hose out the stack. Wash a n d disinfect the s u r r o u n d i n g area.

Clearing a blockage with a hydraulic pump Shift a really stubborn blockage with a hired pump, similar to the one used for clearing a blocked sink (see opposite I

Use a hired auger to eleata soil stack

SEE ALSO: Inspection chambers 15, Gas torch 21,77, Drain auger 74, WC auger 74

DRAINAGE
MAINTENANCE

Rodding the drains


T h e first s i g n o f a b l o c k e d d r a i n c o u l d be a n u n p l e a s a n t s m e l l f r o m an inspection chamber, b u t a severe b l o c k a g e m a y c a u s e sewage to overflow f r o m a gully o r f r o m b e n e a t h the c o v e r o f an inspection chamber. Before you resort to professional services, hire a set o f d r a i n r o d s s h o r t flexible rods made o f plastic o r w i r e , screwed e n d t o end - to c l e a r the b l o c k a g e .

Rodding the drainpipe


Screw two o r three rods together and attach a corkscrew fitting to the end. Insert the rods into the d r a i n at the b o t t o m o f the inspection chamber, in the d i r e c t i o n o f the suspected blockage. If the c h a m b e r is full o f water, use the cud o f a rod to locate the open channel r u n n i n g across the floor, leading t o the m o u t h o f the d r a i n . A s y o u pass the rods a l o n g the pipe, attach further lengths till you reach the o b s t r u c t i o n , then twist the rods clockwise to engage the screw. (Never twist the rods a n t i c l o c k w i s e , o r they w i l l become detached.) P u l l and push the o b s t r u c t i o n until it breaks up, a l l o w i n g the water ro flow away. E x t r a c t the rods, flush the c h a m b e r w i t h clean water from a hose, and rhen replace the l i d .

Clearing interceptor traps


Screw a rubber plunger to the end of a s h o r t length o f rods and locate the channel that leads to the base of the trap. Push the plunger into the opening of the trap, then p u m p the rods a few times to expel the blockage. (This is also a useful technique for clearing blocked yard gullies,) If the water level does not drop aftet several attempts, try clearing the drain leading to the sewer. Access to this drain is through a cleaning eye above the trap. It w i l l be sealed w i t h a stopper, which you w i l l have to dislodge w i t h a drain rod, unless it is attached to a chain stapled to the chamber w a l l . D o n ' t let the stopper fall into the channel and block the trap. R o d the drain to the sewer, then hose out the chamber before replacing the stopper and cover.

Locating the blockage


Lift the cover from the inspection c h a m b e r nearest to the house. If it's stuck o r the handles have rusted away, scrape the dirt from a r o u n d its edges and prise it up w i t h a garden spade. If the c h a m b e r contains water, check the one nearer the road o r boundary. If that c h a m b e r is dry, the blockage is between the two chambers. Rodding paints A modern drainage system is often fitted with tod ding points to provide access to the drain. They are sealed with small oval or circular covers. If the chamber nearest the road is full, the blockage w ill be in the interceptor trap o r in the pipe beyond, leading to the sewer. If both chambers are dry and yet either a y a r d gully or d o w n s t a i r s W C w i l l not empty, check for blockages in the branch drains that run t o the first inspection chamber.

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'

Use a corkscrew fitting to clear a dtain

To rod an Interceptor trap, fit a rubber plonger

Cesspools and septic tanks


Houses built in the c o u n t r y o r o n the outskirts o f a t o w n are nor always connected to a p u b l i c sewer. Instead, waste is drained i n t o a cesspool o r septic tank, A cesspool simply acts as a collection point for sewage until it can be p u m p e d out by the local council - whereas a septic tank is a complete waste-disposal system, in which sewage is broken d o w n by bacterial action before the water is finally discharged into a local waterway or distributed u n d e r g r o u n d . Cesspools T h e B u i l d i n g Regulations stipulate that cesspools must have a m i n i m u m capacity o f IScu m (4000 gallons), but many existing cesspools a c c o m m o d a t e far less and require e m p t y i n g perhaps once every t w o weeks. Before b u y i n g a c o u n t r y h o m e w i t h a cesspool, it is w o r t h c h e c k i n g that it w i l l cope w i t h your needs. Water aurhoritics estimate the disposal o f approximately 115 litres (25 gallons) per person per day. M o s t cesspools are c y l i n d r i c a l pits lined w i t h brick o r concrete. M o d e r n ones are sometimes prefabricated in glass-reinforced plastic. Access is via a m a n h o l e cover. Septic tanks T h e sewage in a septic tank separates slowly: heavy sludge falls to the bottom to leave relatively clear water, w i t h a layer o f scum floating o n the surface. A dip-pipe discharges waste below the surface, so that i n c o m i n g water does not stir up the sewage. Bacterial action takes a m i n i m u m o f 24 hours, so the tank is divided into chambers by baffles to slow d o w n the movement o f sewage through the tank. T h e partly treated waste passes out of the tank, through another dip-pipe, i n t o some form o f filtration system that allows further bacterial action to take place. T h i s may consist o f another chamber, c o n t a i n i n g a deep filter bed; or the waste may flow underground through a n e t w o r k of drains, which disperses the water over a wide area to filter t h r o u g h rhc soil.

A typical cesspool 11nspection chamber 2 Dip-pipe 3 Manhole cover 1 Ventilator S Sludge

A septic tank 1 Inspection chamber 2 Dip-pipe 3 Manhole cover 4 Baffle 5 Filter chamber K Outlet

18

SEE ALSO: Inspection chambers IS, Drain rods 74

Metal pipes
The a b i l i t y t o i n s t a l l a r u n o f pipework, make watertight joints a n d c o n n e c t u p t o f i t t i n g s constitutes the b a s i s o f m o s t p l u m b i n g . W i t h o u t these s k i l l s , a. h o u s e h o l d e r is r e s t r i c t e d t o simple m a i n t e n a n c e . M o d e r n materials a n d t e c h n o l o g y have made i t p o s s i b l e f o r a n y b o d y who is p r e p a r e d t o m a s t e r a few t e c h n i q u e s t o u p g r a d e a n d extend p l u m b i n g w i t h o u t having t o h i r e a p r o f e s s i o n a l .

Metal supply pipes


O v e r the years, most household p l u m b i n g systems w i l l have undergone some form of improvement o r alteration. A s a result, you may find any o f a number o f metals used, perhaps in c o m b i n a t i o n , depending o n the availability o f materials at the time of installation o r the preference o f an i n d i v i d u a l plumber. Cast-iron waste pipes All old soil pipes are OfOde from cast iron, which is prone to rusting. I lit weren't for their relatively thick walls, pipes of this kind would have rusted away long ago.

Copper
H a l f - h a r d - t e m p e r e d copper t u b i n g is by far the most w i d e l y used material l o r p i p e w o r k . T h i s is because tr's lightweight, solders w e l l , and can be bent easily (even by h a n d , w i t h the aid o f a b e n d i n g spring). It is employed for b o t h hot-water and cold-water pipes, as well as for central-heating systems. T h e r e arc three sizes o f pipe that are invariably used for general d o m e s t i c p l u m b i n g : I 5 m m ( t i i n ) , 2 2 m m (?Sil}, and 2 8 m m ( l i n ) .

Stainless steel
Stainless-steel t u b i n g is not its c o m m o n as copper, but is available in the same sizes. You may have to order it f r o m a plumbers' merchant. It's harder rhan copper, so cannot be bent as easily, and is difficult to solder. It pays t o use c o m pression joints ro connect stainless-steel pipes, but tighten them slightly more t h a n y o u w o u l d when j o i n i n g copper. Stainless steel does not react w i t h galvanized steel (iron) - see ELECTROCHEMICAL ACTION (bottom left). Plastic waste pipes Should you need to replece a cast-iron pipe, ask for one of the plastic alternatives.

Metric and imperial pipes


Copper and stainless-steel pipes are now made in metric sizes, whereas pipework already installed in older house w i l l have been made ro i m p e r i a l measurements. If you compare the equivalent dimensions (15mm - I4in, 22mm - -Jdin, 2 8 m m - l i n ) , the difference seems obvious, but metric pipe is measured externally while i m p e r i a l pipe is measured internally ! n fact, the difference is very s m a l l - but enough to cause some problems when j o i n i n g one type o f pipe t o the other. When m a k i n g soldered joints, an exact fit is essential. Imperial to metric adaptors are necessary when joining 22mm pipe to its imperial equivalent; and, although not essential, adaptors are convenient when you are w o r k i n g with 28mm pipes or w i t h thick-walled Vim pipes. A d a p t o r s are not required when using compression fittings, but when you are connecting 2 2 m m t o 3iin plumbing slip an imperial olive onto the K i n pipe. Typically, 15mm ffiah) pipe is used tor the supply to basins, kitchen sinks washing machines, some showers, and radiator flow and returns. However, 22mm (Mm) pipes are used to supply baths, hlgh-OBtpUt showers, hot-water cylinders and m a i n central-heating circuits; and 2 8 m m ( l i n ) pipe for larger heating installations.

Lead
L e a d is never used for any f o r m o f new p l u m b i n g but there are thousands of houses that still have a lead r i s i n g m a i n connected t o a m o d e r n i z e d system. Lead p l u m b i n g that's still in use must be ueariug the end of its life, so replace it as soon as an o p p o r t u n i t y arises. When d r i n k i n g water lies in a lead pipe for some time, it absorbs toxins from the metal, i f you have a lead pipe s u p p l y i n g your d r i n k i n g water, always run off a little water before you use any.

Galvanized steel (iron)


G a l v a n i z e d steel was once c o m m o n l y used for s u p p l y pipes, both below and above g r o u n d , h a v i n g raken over from lead. It was then superseded by copper. There are two p r o b l e m s w i t h this type o f pipe. It rusts f r o m the inside a n d resists water flow as it deteriorates. A l s o , when it is joined t o copper, the g a l v a n i z i n g breaks d o w n rapidly because o f an electrolytic action between the copper and zinc c o a t i n g (see b o t t o m left).

Electrochemical action
Joining pipes made from different metals can accelerate corrosion as a result of electrolytic action. If you live in a soft-water area, where this problem tends to be pronounced, use plastic pipe and connectors when you're joining to o!u pipework - but make sine that the metal pipes are still bonded t o earth, as required by the W i r i n g Regulations. Stainless steel Due lo its superior appearance and strength, stainless steel rs sometimes used where pipe runs are exposed. It does not cause electrolytic action with galvanisedsteel pipes. lead This is still foond in older houses. It can introduce toxins into the drinking-water supply, so should be teplaced.

Copper pipes The economic choice for modern, plumbing systems

Iron Iron pipes are used for mains watct supply in some older systems. Iron is susceptible to furring-up and decay, which can result in low water pressure and leaks. Cast iron Is used iorwaste pipes in older buildings.

SEE ALSO: Soldered joints 21, Bending springs 23, Push-fit joints 25-G, Plastic waste pipes 26, Soft water 48, Main switch equipment 68, Supplementary bonding G9-70

19

Metal joints and fittings


Joints arc made to connect p i p e s at different angles a n d i n various combinations. There arc adaptors for j o i n i n g metric a n d imperial pipes, a n d for connecting one kind of material to another. Y o u need t o consult manufacturers' catalogues to see every v a r i a t i o n , b u t t h e examples o n this page illustrate a t y p i c a l range o f j o i n t s . P l u m b i n g fittings s u c h as valves are m a d e w i t h d e m o u n t able c o m p r e s s i o n j o i n t s , s o t h a t they c a n b e r e m o v e d e a s i l y f o r servicing or replacement.
Straight connectors To join two pipes end to end in a straight line. 1 For pipes of equal diameter - compression joint 2 Reducer to conned a 22mm (Kin) pips toa 15mm |Hlft| pipe - capillary joint. Bends or elbows To join two pipes ai an angle. 3 Elbow 90*compression ioint Tees (T-joints) To join three pipes. 4 Equal tee, for joining three pipes of the same diameter - capillary joint 5 Un ego a I tee. fot reducing size of pipe run when connecting a branch pipe - compression joint Adaptors To join dissimilar pipes I Straight coupling for joining 22mm and KM pipes - compression joint I Connector for joining copper to galvanized steel - compression joinl for copper, threaded lemele couplingtoi Steel. Fittings Identical jointing systems are used to connect filings. 8 End cap. to seal pipes - compression joint 9 Tap connector, with threaded nut for connecting supply pipe to tap - capillary joint 10 Tank connector, joins pipes to cisterns - compression joint II Bib-tap wall plate, for fixing tap on outside wall - compression join! far supply pipe, threaped female connector for tap 12 Bib tap has threaded tail to fit wall plate. 13 Gate valve to fit in straight pipe run - compression joint. 14 Draincock for emptying a pipe run - compression joint. 15 Straight service valve for isolating a lap or float valve compression joint. IE Double-check non-return valve, used for outside taps and other outlets where contamination of water supply is possible - compression joint.

Corrosion resistance Corrosion can take place between brass fittings and copper pipes. Look for Ihe symbol that denotes corrosion-resistant brass fittings. Soldering capillary joints Solder is introduced to each mouth of the assembled end-feed joint Ifar right) and flows by capillary action into the fitting. The rings pressed into the sleeves of an integral-ring fitting (right) contain the exact amount of solder to make perfect joints

Pipe joints
It w o u l d he impossible t o make strong, watertight joints by simply soldering two lengths o f copper pipe end to end. Instead, plumbers use c a p i l l a r y or compression joints.

5 Unequal tee
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I.I.I.. JtlJ

Capillary joints Capillary joints are made to fit snugly over Ihe ends of a pipe.Theverysmallspace between the pipe and joint sleeve is filled with molten solder. When it solidifies on cooling, the solder holds the joint together and makes it watertight. Capillary joints are neat and inexpensive - but because you need to host the metal with a gas torch, there is a slight risk of fire when working in confined spaces under floors CUT PIPE SQUARE PRIOR TO ASSEMBLY S End cap 9 Tap connector

CAP-NUT

IS Straight service valve

OLIVE

OLIVE

Compression joints Compression joints are very easy to use, but are more expensive then capillary joints. They are also mote obtrusive, and you will find it impossible to manoeuvre a wrench where space is restricted. The end ot each pipe is cut square before the joint is assembled. When ihe cap-nut is tightened with a wrench it compresses a ring of soft metal, known as an olive, to fill the joint between fitting and pipe. 11 Bib-tap wall plate

15 Double-check non-return valve

CUTTING METAL PIPE


Calculate the length o f pipe you need, allowing enough to fit i n t o the sleeve of the joint at each end. Whatever type of joint y o u use, it's essential to cut the end o f every length o f pipe square.

Making soldered joints


S o l d e r i n g p i p e joints is easy o n c e y o u have h a d a little practice. T h e fittings are c h e a p , s o y o u c a n afford t o try o u t the t e c h n i q u e s before y o u b e g i n t o install p i p e w o r k . Y o u need a gas t o r c h t o a p p l y heat, s o m e flux t o c l e a n the m e t a l , a n d s o l d e r t o m a k e the j o i n t . M a k e sure the p i p e is perfectly d r y before y o u a t t e m p t t o solder a joint.

PIPEWORK METAL

A setecti on of tube cutters and hacksaws

Gas torches
To heat the metal sufficiently for a soldered joint, most plumbers use a gas torch. G a s , liquefied under pressure, is contained in a disposable metal canister. When the control valve o f the torch is opened, gas is vaporized to combine with air, m a k i n g a highly combustible mixture. O n c e ignited, the flame is adjusted until it burns steadily w i t h a clear blue colour. M a n y professional plumbers use a propane torch, which is connected by a hose to a metal gas bottle. T h e average householder doesn't need such expensive equipment, but if you happen to own a propane torch, perhaps for car repairs, you can use the same tool for soldering p l u m b i n g joints.

Solder and flux


Solder is a soft alloy manufactured w i t h a m e l t i n g p o i n t lower than that of the metal it is j o i n i n g . P l u m b e r s ' solder is sold as w o u n d wire. C o p p e r must be spotlessly clean and grease-free if it is to produce a properly soldered joint. Even when you have cleaned it mechanically w i t h wire w o o l , copper begins to oxidize immediately; a chemical cleaner k n o w n as flux is therefore painted onto the metal to provide a barrier against o x i d a t i o n until the solder is applied. A non-corrosive flux in the form of a paste is the best one to use. O n stainless-steel pipework use a highly efficient active flux - but wash it off w i t h w a r m water after the joint is made, or the metal w i l l corrode.

o Joining stai ill ess-steel pipes The techniques lor joining copper and stainless-steel are Similar- but because the sleel is harder, you will find that it's easier to cut it with a hacksaw. Use an active flu>when soldering stainless steel Isee left).

To ensure a perfectly square cut each time, use a tube cutter. A l i g n the cutting wheel w i t h yout m a r k , and adjust the handle o f the tool to c l a m p the tollers against the pipe (1)- Rotate the t o o l around the pipe, adjusting the handle after each revolution 10 make the cutter bite deeper into the metal. A tube cutter makes a clean cut o n the outside o f the pipe, but use the pointed reamer o n the t o o l t o clean the burr from inside the cut end (2). If you use a hacksaw, make sure the cut is square by w r a p p i n g a piece of paper w i t h a straight edge a r o u n d the pipe. A l i g n the wrapped edge a n d use it to guide the saw blade |3). Remove the burr, inside and out, w i t h a file.

Using integral-ring joints


C l e a n the ends o f each pipe and the inside of the joint sleeves w i t h wire wool or abrasive paper until the metal is shiny. Rrush flux onto the cleaned metal and push the pipes into the joint, twisting them to spread the flux evenly. Push each pipe up against the stop in the joint. If you are using elbows or tees, mark the pipe and joint w i t h a pencil, to make sure they d o not get misaligned d u r i n g the soldering. Slip a ceramic tile o r a plumber's fibreglass mat behind the joint t o protect flammable materials, then apply the flame o f a gas torch to the area o f the joint t o heat it evenly W h e n a bright ring o f solder appears at each end of the joint, remove the flame and allow the metal t o c o o l for a couple o f minutes before d i s t u r b i n g it. Repairing a weeping joint W h e n you fill a new installation w i t h water for the first time, check every joint to make sure it's watertight. If you notice water 'weeping' f r o m a soldered joint, d r a i n the pipe and allow it t o dry. Heat the joint and apply some fresh solder t o the edge o f each m o u t h . If it leaks a second time, heat the joint until you can p u l l it apart w i t h gloved hands. Either use a new joint o r clean and flux all surfaces and reuse the same joint, adding solder as if you were w o r k i n g with an end-feed fitting (see right}.

Using end-feed joints


H a v i n g cleaned and assembled an endfeed joint, heat the area o f the joint evenly. W h e n the flux begins to bubble remove the flame and touch the solder wire to two o r three points a r o u n d the m o u t h o f each sleeve - the joint is full of solder when a bright ring appears a r o u n d each sleeve. A l l o w it to c o o l .

Gas torches A gas torch is used for heating soldered joints. A simple torch (above) is available from any DIY outlet. The propane torch [below] is used by professional plumbers.

1 clamp the tube cutter onto the pipe

Heat the joint to melt the captive solder Lead-free solder Use lead-free solder when joining pipes that will supply d tin king water.

3 Wrap paper around the pipe to guide a saw

Introduce solder to a heated end-feed joint

* * SEE ALSO: Pipe fittings 19, 24, 26, Plumbing tools 74-9

21

PIPEWORK METAL

Compression joints
U s i n g c o m p r e s s i o n f i t t i n g s is s o s t r a i g h t f o r w a r d that y o u w i l l b e able t o m a k e w a t e r t i g h t j o i n t s w i t h o u t a n y p r e v i o u s e x p e r i e n c e .

STEEL-TO-PLASTIC CONNECTIONS
Calvani/cd-steel pipe is connected by threaded joints, so if you plan to extend o l d p i p e w o r k using the same material you w i l l need a pipe die to cut the threads o n the end of each length o f new pipe. Y o u can hire a pipe die, but a simpler s o l u t i o n is t o continue the run in plastic, using a n adaptor t o connect one system t o another. O n e end of the adaptor has a push-fit sleeve for the plastic pipework; the other end has a male o r female threaded connector for the galvanized steel.

Assembling a joint
C u t the ends o f each pipe square and clean t h e m , a l o n g w i t h the olives, using w i r e w o o l . D i s m a n t l e a new joint and slip a eap-nut over the end o f one pipe, followed by a n olive (1). L o o k carefully to see if the s l o p i n g sides o f the olive ate equal in length. If one is longer than the other, that side s h o u l d face away from the nut. Push the pipe firmly into the joint body (2). t w i s t i n g it slightly t o ensure it is firmly against the integral stop. Slide the olive u p against the joint body, then tighten the nut by h a n d . T h e olive must be compressed by just the right a m o u n t to ensure a watertight joint. A s a guide, make a pencil mark o n one face o f the nut and o n the o p p o s i n g face o n the joint body (3); then, h o l d i n g the joint body steady w i t h a spanner, use another spanner to turn the nut one complete revolution (4). Assemble the other half of the joint in exactly the same manner. Some plumbers like t o wrap a single turn o f P T F E tape over the olive before tightening the nut, t o make absolutely sure the joinr is watertight. However, a properly tightened compression joint should be watertight w i t h o u t it.

Fitting an adaptor
Use t w o Stillson wrenches to unscrew the joint o n the o l d pipework where you intend to connect up to plastic. Grip the joint w i t h one wrench and the pipe w i t h the other, pushing and pulling in the direction the jaws face (1), If the joint is stiff, use penetrating o i l or play the flame o f a gas torch along it. Threaded connections leak unless they're made watertight w i t h plumbers' P T E E tape. W r a p the tape clockwise two o r three times around the pipe to cover the threads (2), then engage and tighten the adaptor.

Slraighl connector Compression joint to join two pipes ot equal diameter, end to end, in a straight line. 1 Slip an olive onto the pipe after the cap-nul 2 Clamp the joint to the pipe with the nut

Elbow joint A90-degree elbow compression joint connects two pipes at an angle

3 Mark the nut and ioim with a pencil

4 Tighten the joint with two spanners

Repairing a weeping joint


H a v i n g filled the pipe w i t h water, check each joint for leaks. M a k e one further quarter t u r n o n any nut that appears t o be weeping. Notching floor joists When running pipes under floorboards, notch eachioist to receive the pipe. Cut the notch to align with the centre of a floorboard end drive a nail on each side when replacing the board. C r u s h i n g an olive by overtightening a compression joint w i l l cause it t o leak. D r a i n the pipe and d i s m a n t l e the joint. C u t t h r o u g h the d a m a g e d olive w i t h a j u n i o r hacksaw, t a k i n g care not to damage the pipe. Remake the joint w i t h a new olive, restore the s u p p l y of water, and check for leaks once more.

? Wrap plenty of PTFE tape over the threads Saw through a damaged olive

SEE ALSO: Metal joints and fittings 20, Adaptors 20, Wrenches 78

COPPER-TO-LEAD CONNECTIONS
When replacing a i d lead p l u m b i n g w i t h copper, plumbers used t o make the COBDGCfion to the lead rising main w i t h solder and a b l o w l a m p . It is illegal to make such joints nowadays - and it is also much simpler to use a special leadto-copper compression joint. There are joints for c o n n e c t i n g lead pipes to 15 and 2 2 m m [Vi and Nin) copper pipes. Y o u can use s i m i l a r joints for plastic p l u m b i n g , provided you reinforce the plastic pipe w i t h metal inserts. A l t h o u g h the connector* arc specified a c c o r d i n g to the bore of lead p i p e w o r k , measure the outside diameter o f your r i s i n g m a i n and ask a p l u m b e r s ' merchant to provide a sttirablc compression joint.

Bending pipes
Y o u c a n c h a n g e the d i r e c t i o n o f a p i p e r u n by u s i n g a n e l b o w j o i n t , but there are o c c a s i o n s w h e n b e n d i n g the p i p e itself w i l l p r o d u c e a neater o r m o r e a c c u r a t e result. If y o u w a n t t o c a r r y a p i p e over a s m a l l o b s t r u c t i o n (another p i p e , for e x a m p l e ) , a slight k i n k i n the p i p e w i l l be less o f an o b s t r u c t i o n t o the f l o w o f w a t e r a n d w i l l therefore create less noise t h a n t w o e l b o w s w i t h i n a few centimetres o f each other. It is a l s o cheaper. P e r h a p s y o u w a n t t o r u n p i p e s i n t o a w i n d o w a l c o v e w h e r e the w a l l s m e e t a t a n u n u s u a l angle? B e n d i n g the p i p e s a c c u r a t e l y w i l l a l l o w y o u t o fit the p i p e s n e a t l y a g a i n s t the a l c o v e w a l l s .

PIPEWOF
METAL

Annealing pipe When you are working with large-diameter capper pipe, play the llame of a gaslotch around the area of the intended bend until the metal is cherry red, then allow it to cool. The pipe will bend with minimal effort, using a bending spring

Using a bending spring


A b e n d i n g s p r i n g is the cheapest and easiest tool for m a k i n g bends in small pipe runs. It is a hardened-steel c o i l spring that supports the walls o f c o p p e r tube t o stop it k i n k i n g . M o s t b e n d i n g springs arc made t o fit inside the pipe, but some slide over it. Slide the s p r i n g into the tube, SO it s u p p o r t s the area you want to bend. H o l d the tube against your padded knee and bend it to the required angle. T h e bent tube w i l l grip the s p r i n g , but s l i p p i n g a screwdriver i n t o the r i n g at one end a n d t u r n i n g it a n t i c l o c k w i s e w i l l reduce the diameter o f the s p r i n g so that y o u can p u l l it o u t . If you make a bend some distance f r o m the end o f a tube, you won't be able to w i t h d r a w the b e n d i n g s p r i n g in the n o r m a l way. E i t h e r use an external spring o r tie a length o f t w i n e to the ring a n d lightly grease the s p r i n g w i t h petroleum jelly before y o u insert it. Slightly ovcrbend the tube and open it out t o the correct angle t o release the s p r i n g , then p u l l it out w i t h the twine. Plumbers' bending springs

Making the connection


Select a straight length o f lead pipe that is as round as possible. It must also be in good condition, as the O - r i n g inside the fitting won't make a watertight seal if the lead is dented o r scored. Turn off the water supply. Have a bucket ready to catch the water, then cut the lead pipe w i t h a hacksaw. C h a m f e r the outside edge of the pipe, and remove the burr from the inside. Dismantle the compression joint and check that the large thrust nut makes a good sliding fit on the lead pipe. You can scrape back a slightly oversize pipe to fit, keeping it as round as possible. Slide the thrust nut onto the pipe, then the two metal rings and the rubber O - n n g ( l ) . Slide the threaded c o u p l i n g body onto the end of the pipe and push it against the internal end stop. T i g h t e n the coupling (2) until you feel resistance, but don't use excessive force. The other end of the coupling body carries a conventional compression joint for the copper pipe. LOCKING RING
T H R U S T NUT

Using the spring Bend the pipe against your padded knee. If you anneal the pipe pipe, (see above I be sore to allow it to cool befote bending it.

Using a pipe bender


A l t h o u g h you c a n hire b e n d i n g springs to fit the larger pipes, it isn't easy t o bend 22 o r 2 8 m m (H o r l i n ) tube over your knee - so it is well w o r t h h i r i n g a pipe bendef to do the job. H o l d the pipe against the radiused former and insert the straight former to s u p p o r t it. Pull the levers towards each other to make the b e n d , and then open up the bender ro remove the pipe. ADI..1S!: FORMER Use a pipe bender for larger tubing

FRICTION RING

Supporting pipe runs Place a plastic or metal clip at lm(3ft) intervals along a horizontal tun of 15mm ISiin) pipe. Increase the spacing to every l.5m (4ft Gin] on a vertical run, In the case of larger pipes, increase the spacing a little more.

COUPLING BODY Copper-lo-lead compression joint

OLIVE

Getting the bends in the right place


1 Fit tun and rings 2 Tighten the coupling Ir is difficult to p o s i t i o n t w o o r m o r e bends accurately a l o n g a single length of pipe. If you want to fit an alcove, for e x a m p l e , it's easier t o bend i n d i v i d u a l lengths o f pipe t o fit each corner, then cut the tubes where they overlap and insert joints. PLASTIC
METAL

Bend separate lengths of pipe to fit an alcove CUT HERE

F" SEE ALSO: Connecting plastic to metal plumbing 25, External spring 76, Tube bender 76

'IPEWORK 'LSTIG

Plastic plumbing
P l a s t i c p l u m b i n g is l i g h t w e i g h t a n d e x t r e m e l y s i m p l e t o a s s e m b l e , ft d o e s n ' t b u r s t w h e n f r o z e n , c o r r o d e , o r a d v e r s e l y affect o t h e r m a t e r i a l s ; a n d , d e p e n d i n g o n the type o f p l a s t i c , it c a n b e used b o t h for cold water and hot, i n c l u d i n g central-heating p i p e w o r k . M o s t p l a s t i c s y s t e m s c a n be c o n n e c t e d t o e x i s t i n g m e t a l p i p e s . P l a s t i c j o i n t s a n d fittings are s i m i l a r t o the ones used f o r m e t a l p l u m b i n g , b u t are t y p i c a l l y l a r g e r i n size. J o i n t s a n d p i p e s are f o r the m o s t p a r t m a n u f a c t u r e d f r o m t h e s a m e m a t e r i a l , b u t there are several s p e c i a l i z e d c o n n e c t o r s a v a i l a b l e f o r j o i n i n g p l a s t i c p l u m b i n g t o taps, t a n k s a n d e x i s t i n g m e t a l p l u m b i n g . T o sec the h u g e v a r i e t y o f p l a s t i c joints, y o u need to browse t h r o u g h m a n u f a c t u r e r s ' catalogues, but the s e l e c t i o n b e l o w s h o w s the m a i n c a t e g o r i e s o f j o i n t a n d e x a m p l e s o f the different types o f c o u p l i n g . Straight connectors For joining two pipes end to end. 1 For pipes of equal diameter- push- fit Tees For joining three pipes. 5 Unequal tee for joining 15mm (Kin) btanoh pipe to main pipe run - push-ft Plastic supply pipes are made to the same standard sizes as metal pipework, but there may be a slight variation i n w a l l thickness from one manufacturer's stock to another.

Elbows For joining two pipes at an angle. 2 El bow 45


- solvent weld.

mijii

Chlorinated polyvinyl chloride (cPVC)


A versatile plastic suitable for hot and c o l d supply. It c a n even withstand the temperatures that are required for central-hearing systems.

3 Elbow 90'
- push-tit

Polybutylene (P8)
A tough, flexible plastic pipe used for hor and c o l d supply, and central heating. Available i n standard lengths or c o n t i n u o u s coils, PB resists bursting when frozen. It w i l l sag i f unsupported.

Adaptors To join dissimilar pipes. 4 Plastic-to-cop per connector - push-fit


and compression joint

Cross-linked polyethylene (PEX)


Although it expands considerably when it is heated, P E X is used to make pipes that supply hot and cold water and for underfloor heating systems. However, it rends to sag, so is unsuitable for surface running. A P E X pipe resists bursting when subjected to frost. Twin-wall P E X , w i t h an oxygen-diffusion barrier in the form o f an a l u m i n i u m layer sandwiched between the walls, is semi-rigid.

Fittings Manufacturers supply pipe connectors and valves that can be attached to plastic pipes.

6 Tap connectot with threaded nut for connecting supply pipe to tail of tappush-ft

7 Tank connector joins pipes to storage tanks and cisterns push-fit

SStopcock-push-rS

Bending plastic pipes


Oxygen-diffusion barriers There's some concern that a small amount of oxygen drawn through the walls of plastic central-heating pipes contributes to the corrosion of the system. To prevent this happening, an oxygendiffusion barrier is built into fhe walls of 1 he pipe. Flexible pipes can be bent cold to a m i n i m u m radius o f eight times the pipe diameter. Use a pipe clip at each side of the bend to h o l d the curve, o r use a special corner clamp. It is easy to thread flexible pipe around obstacles o r r u n it under floorboards. It's possible to bend a rigid plastic pipe by heating it gently. Pass the flame of a gas torch over the area that y o u want to bend. Keep the flame m o v i n g and revolve the pipe. W h e n the pipe is soft e n o u g h , bend it by h a n d o n a flat surface. H o l d it still till the plastic hardens again. Wear thick leather gloves when h a n d l i n g hot plasrie.

Medium-density polyethylene (MDPE)


T h i s plastic is widely used for underg r o u n d domestic supply pipes. T h e pipes, n o r m a l l y c o l o u r e d blue, can be laid i n c o n t i n u o u s lengths and are resistant to pressure and corrosion.

cPVC MDPE Hook flexible pipe into a metal corner clamp

it*- SEE ALSO:

Push-lit joints 2 5 - 6 , Solvent-weld joints

26

CONNECTING METAL Joining plastic supply pipes !TO PLASTIC PLUMBING


Some p l a s t i c s u p p l y p i p e s c a n b e c o n n e c t e d u s i n g s o l v e n t - w e l d joints (as d e s c r i b e d f o r w a s t e s y s t e m s ) , b u t i t is easier a n d m o r e convenient t o use the p u s h - f i t c o n n e c t o r s s h o w n b e l o w .
Special adaptor couplings ate needed in order t o connect most types o f plasticpipe to copper or galvanized-steel p l u m b i n g . To join polyburylcne pipe t o copper, insert a metal support sleeve, then use a standard brass compression joint; o r use a push-fit connector to join copper pipes to a polybutyleue run. Cut and deburr the copper pipe carefully before p u s h i n g it into the joint. # CAP-NUT
V

Push-fit joints
When the pipe is inserted, an O - r i n g seals in the water in the n o r m a l way and (depending on the model) a special plastic grab ring, o r a collet w i t h stainless-steel teeth, grips the tube securely to prevent water under mains pressure forcing the joint apart. J o i n t s fitted w i t h collets can be disconnected easily, but to d i s m a n t l e the
l

other type o f push-fit joint, it's necessary t o remove the retaining Lap and prise open the grab r i n g , using a special t o o l . Push-fit joints are more obtrusive than their solvent-welded equivalents - but the speed a n d s i m p l i c i t y w i t h w h i c h you can assemble them more than compensates.

Grab-ring push-fit joint A grab ring holds the pips, to resist water underpressure.

PLASTIC PIPE Joining plastic pipe with a compression lilting Insert support sleeve before tightening the joint.

Collet-type joints
Coltel-lype push-fit joint A different type of joint incorporates a collet that grips the pipe. Push-fir joints that i n c o r p o r a t e collets are p a r t i c u l a r l y easy to assemble. C u t the end o f the pipe square, push it intu the socket until it comes up against the internal stop, then p u l l on the pipe to check that the j o i n t is secure. If you need to dismantle a joint, hold the collet in w i t h your fingertips (1) and pull the pipe out o f the socket. J o i n metal pipes the same way, but remove burrs and sharp edges to prevent tearing the O - r i n g . Provide extra grip by slipping a collet clip into the grooved collar (2).

Using grab-ring joints


( in p o l y h u t y l t n e pipe to length w i t h the special shears that are s u p p l i e d by the manufacturer (1) - o r alternatively use a s h a r p craft k n i f e . P r o v i d e d that you make the cut reasonably square, the joint w i l l be w a t e r t i g h t . Push a metal s u p p o r t sleeve into the pipe (2). a n d , i f necessary, smear a little silicone lubricant a r o u n d the end o f the pipe and inside the socket (3). Push the prepared pipe f i r m l y a full 2 5 m m ( l i n ) into the socket (4). A s the joint can revolve freely a r o u n d the pipe after c o n n e c t i o n w i t h o u t b r e a k i n g the seal, there is no p r o b l e m when a l i g n i n g tees and e l b o w s w i t h other pipe runs.

Supporting pipe runs Plastic pipework should be supported with clips or saddles similar to those used for metal pipe, but because it is more flexible you will have lo space Ihe clips closer together Check with ihe manufacturers' literature to establish the exact dimensions. If you plan to surfacerun flexible pipes, consider ducting or boxing-in because it's dilficull to make I really neat installation

1 Cut pipe to length

2 Insert metal sleeve

Dismantling a joint If you need to dismantle a joint to alter a system, unscrew the cap and p u l l out the pipe. Slide off the rubber O ring, then prise off the grab ring, using a special d e m o u n t i n g t o o l (see fight). Never try to reuse a grab ring. To reassemble the j o i n t , insert the O-ring i n t o the f i t t i n g , followed by the grab r i n g - w i t h its slots f a c i n g outwards. Replace the r e t a i n i n g cap tnd h a n d - i i g h t e n it, ready t o insert he pipe. Push the pipe into the joint, using he technique described above. Never ry to assemble the fitting like a oinpression joint, o r it w i l l b l o w out inder pressure. Prise open the grab ring, using a special tool R e p a i r i n g a weeping joint A push-fit joint o n a s u p p l y pipe may leak i f the pipe is not pushed h o m e fully, o r if the O - r i n g is d a m a g e d . Cutting plastic pipe Polybutylene pipe is easy to cut, using special shears.

2 Slip collet clip into grooved collai

PIPEWORK PLASTIC

Plastic waste pipes


Plastics are c o m p l e x m a t e r i a l s , each h a v i n g its o w n properties. Consequently, a technique or m a t e r i a l t h a t is s u i t a b l e f o r j o i n i n g o n e p l a s t i c m a y n o t be suitable for another. To make watertight joints, it's v i t a l t o f o l l o w t h e m a n u facturer's i n s t r u c t i o n s carefully, a n d t o use t h e p a r t i c u l a r solvents a n d l u b r i c a n t s that are recommended. T h e examples o n the right illustrate c o m m o n methods for connecting plastic waste pipes a n d joints. Fittings 1 Bottle trap for sink or basin compression joint

WASTE-PIPE JOINTS
Solvent-weld joints
Lengths o f pipe arc linked by simple socketed connectors. A s they are assembled, solvent is introduced which dissolves the surfaces of the m a t i n g components. A s the solvent evaporates, the joints and pipes ate literally fused together into one piece of plastic. Solvent-weld joints are sometimes used for supply pipes, but the technique is more c o m m o n l y employed for waste systems. Solvent-weld joint Solvent cement fuses the joint and pipe into a solid component

Joints and fittings As well as the usual types of joint, waste systems also include easy-flow swept bends and lees for efficient drainage.

Tees (T-jointsl 2 Swept tee with access plug push fit 3 Branch 48solvent- weld

Compression joints
So that they c a n be d i s m a n t l e d easily, sink, bath a n d washbasin traps are often connected to the pipework by means o f compression joints that incorporate a rubber ring or washer to make the joint watertight. Compression joint A threaded joint pulls the pipe and fitting together.

Types of plastic
P l u m b i n g manufacturers nave a w i d e variety of plasties to d r a w u p o n , each w i t h its o w n special characteristics. M o d i f i e d i m p last ici zed p o l y v i n y l chloride ( M n P V Q A h a r d plastic, used for solvent-weld waste pipe a n d fittings. It is resistant to most domestic chemicals, a n d is n o t affected by ultra-violet light w h e n used o u t d o o r s . It is slightly more flexible than u P V C , w h i c h is used for soil pipes w i t h push-fit a n d solvent-weld joints. Polypropylene (PP) A slightly flexible plastic w i t h a somewhat waxy feel, used for waste systems. It's impossible to glue PP, so it is assembled w i t h push-fit joints. A c r y l o n i t r i l e butadiene styrene (ABS) A very t o u g h plastic that is equally suited t o h o t a n d c o l d waste. It c a n be either sol vent-welded o r compression-jointed. Bends and elbows Elbow 90oustt-tH

Push-fit joints
Because a waste system is never under pressure, a pipe r u n can be constructed by s i m p l y p u s h i n g p l a i n pipes into the sockets of the joints. A captive rubber seal in each socket holds the pipe in place and makes rhe joint watertight.

5 Bend 90solvent-wetd.

PLASTIC WASTE-PIPE SIZES Overflow pipes Washbasin waste pipes Bath/shower and sink waste pipes Soil pipe
2 2 m m (%in) 3 2 m m (l!4in) 4 0 m m l'/n) 1 1 0 m m (4in)

Push-fit joint A rubber ring inside rhe sleevi rips the end of the pipe.

26

* - S E E ALSO: Plastic supply pipes 24

Joining plastic waste pipes


It's i m p o r t a n t t o f o l l o w t h e instructions supplied w i t h any particular brand of pipe o r fitting, but the m e t h o d s g i v e n below a n d o n the f a c i n g p a g e describe the b a s i c t e c h n i q u e s for c o n n e c t i n g p l a s t i c p i p e s . K e e p solvents a w a y from children. D o n ' t inhale solvent fumes, a n d never s m o k e w h e n w e l d i n g j o i n t s fumes f r o m some s o l v e n t s b e c o m e t o x i c i f inhaled t h r o u g h a cigarette. W o r k carefully and avoid spilling solvent cement it w i l l etch the s u r f a c e o f the p i p e work a n d d a m a g e some other plastics, as w e l l .
W e l d i n g the joint Push the pipe into the socket t o test the fit, then m a r k the end o f the joint o n the pipe v, itil a pencil (3|, f h i s w i l l act as a guide for a p p l y i n g the solvent. Y o u need t o key b o t h the outside o f the pipe and the inside of the socket w i t h fine abrasive paper before u s i n g some solvents (check the manufacturer's instructions). Before d i s m a n t l i n g e l b o w s and tees, scratch the pipe a n d joint w i t h a knife (4), t o help you align them correctly when you reassemble the components. Use a clean rag to wipe the surface of the pipe a n d fitting w ith the r e c o m mended spirit cleaner. Paint solvent evenly o n t o b o t h c o m p o n e n t s (S), then immediately push home the socket. (Some manufacturers r e c o m m e n d that you twist the joint t o spread the solvent.) A l i g n the joint properly a n d leave it for 15 seconds. T h e pipe is ready for use w i t h c o l d water after an hour, liut d o n ' t pass hot water t h r o u g h the system until at least four hours have elapsed (depending o n the manufacturer's recommendations) or, preferably, longer. A l l o w i n g for e x p a n s i o n Plastic pipes e x p a n d w h e n subjected to hot water. G e n e r a l l y this is o n l y a p r o b l e m over a straight r u n m o r e t h a n 3 m (10ft) i n length - but check the m a n u f a c t u r e r ' s r e c o m m e n d a t i o n s . Incorporate an e x p a n s i o n c o u p l i n g w i t h a push-fit rubber seal at one end that allows the pipe t o slide in a n d out w i t h o u t p u t t i n g other joints under load. L u b r i c a t e the end o f the pipe w i t h silicone grease before you insert it into the c o u p l i n g . R e p a i r i n g a weeping joint If a joint leaks, leave it to dry out naturally. T h e n apply a little more of the solvent cement to the m o u t h o f the socket, a l l o w i n g it to flow into the joint by c a p i l l a r y a c t i o n . ? Withdraw the pipe about 9mm t'iin) Y o u w o u l d have t o d r a i n a s u p p l y pipe before you c o u l d make this repair. 5 Paint soi vent up to the pencil mark 3 Assemble the joint and mark the socket

Making solvent-weld joints


W h i l e the sequence of illustrations o n the right shows large-diameter waste pipe, the method-, described are equally valid for j o i n i n g plastic supply pipe. C u t the pipe to length w i t h a finetooth saw, a l l o w i n g for the depth of the joint socket. T o make sure your cut is square, w i n d a piece o f notepaper r o u n d the tube, a l i g n i n g the w r a p p e d edge as a guide (1). Revolve the pipe away f r o m you as you cut it. S m o o t h the end w i t h a file (2),

Making push-fit joints


Cut the pipe t o length and chamfer the end, as for solvent-weld joints. Wipe the inside o f the socket w i t h the recommended cleaner, a n d l u b r i c a t e the pipe w i t h a little o f the s i l i c o n e lubricant s u p p l i e d w i t h it. Push the pipe into the joint right up to the stop, and m a r k the edge of the socket on the pipe w i t h a p e n c i l (1). Withdraw the pipe about 9 m m (Van) (2), to allow the pipe to e x p a n d when subjected to hot water.

2 Smooth the end with 3 tile

Making compression joints to traps Traps with compression joints are made lor connecting directlytoa plain waste pipe (see opposite I Just slip the threaded nut onto the waste pipe, tallowed by the washer and then the rubber ring. Push the pipe into the socket of the trap end tighten the compression nut.

Repairing a weeping push-fit joint A push-fit joint will leak if the rubber seal has been pushed out of position. Dismantle the joint and check the condition oftho seal.

SEE ALSO: Hacksaws 74-5, Files 78

Replacing a WC suite
R e p l a c i n g a n o l d W C w i t h a m o d e r n s u i t e is a r e l a t i v e l y s t r a i g h t f o r w a r d p r o c e d u r e , p r o v i d e d y o u c a n c o n n e c t i t t o the e x i s t i n g b r a n c h o f the s o i l p i p e . H o w e v e r , i f y o u a r e g o i n g t o m o v e a W C , or perhaps install a second one i n another part of your home, you w i l l have to c o n n e c t to the m a i n s o i l p i p e i t s e l f o r r u n the w a s t e d i r e c t l y i n t o the u n d e r g r o u n d d r a i n a g e s y s t e m . In e i t h e r case, i t is w o r t h h i r i n g a p r o f e s s i o n a l p l u m b e r to m a k e these c o n n e c t i o n s .

CHOOSING A WC CISTERN
High-level cislern Antique-style cisterns are popular for authentically restored period homes.

Cisterns
F r o m .unique-style; high-level cisterns to discreet close-coupled o r concealed models, the choice is so wide that you're b o u n d to find one t o suit your requirements. Before buying, make sure the equipment carries the British Standard ' K i t e m a r k ' o r complies w i t h equivalent E C standards. 600mm 600mm I ligb-levcl cistern If you simply want to replace an o l d fashioned high-level cistern w i t h o u t having t o modify the p i p e w o r k , comparable cisterns are still available from p l u m b e r s ' merchants. Standard low-level cistern M a n y people prefer a cistern mounted on the w a l l just above the W C p a n . A short flush pipe f r o m the base of the cistern connects t o the flushing h o r n o n the rear o f the p a n , while inlet and overflow pipes can be fined to either side o f the cistern. M o s t low-level cisterns are manufacrured from the same virreous china as the W C pan. C o m p a c t low-level cistern W h e r e space is l i m i t e d , use a plastic cistern, w h i c h is only I I 4 m m (4'/;in| from front to back. C o n c e a l e d cistern A low-level cistern can be completely concealed behind panelling. T h e supply and overflow connections are identical to those o f other types of cistern, but the flushing lever is mounted o n the face o f the panel. These plastic cisterns are utilitarian in characrer, w i t h no concession t o fashion or style, and are therefore relatively inexpensive. D o n ' t forget that you w i l l need to provide access for servicing. C l o s e - c o u p l e d cisterns A close-coupled cistern is bolted directly to the p a n , forming an integral unit. Both the inlet and overflow connections are made at the base o f the cistern. A n internal standpipe rises vertically from the overflow connection w i t h the pan to protrude above the level o f the water. Low-level cistern This type of cistern is very common. It is made in plastic or glazed ceramic.

Compact cistern Very slim plastic cistern, for use where space is limited.

600mm Space for a WC Vau will need [a allow a space at leasl 600mm (2ftl square in from ot the pan

WC pans
W h e n v i s i t i n g a s h o w r o o m , you are confronted w i t h many apparently different W C pans t o choose f r o m , but in fact there arc t w o basic patterns a w a s h d o w n pan and a s i p h o n i c pan. S i p h o n i c pans S i p h o n i c pans need no heavy fall o f water t o cleanse t h e m , and are m u c h quieter as a result. A single-trap p a n has a narrow outlet immediately after the bend, t o slow d o w n the flow o f water f r o m the p a n . T h e body o f water expels air from the outlet to p r o m o t e rhe s i p h o n i c a c t i o n . A double-trap pan is more sophisticated and exceptionally quiet. A vent pipe connects the space between t w o traps t o the inlet that runs between the cistern and p a n . A s water flows a l o n g the inlet, it sucks air from the trap system t h r o u g h the vent pipe. A v a c u u m is formed between the traps, and a t m o s p h e r i c pressure forces the water in the pan into the soil pipe. W a s h d o w n pans W a s h d o w n pans w o r k by simple displacement o f waste by fresh water falling from the cistern. T h e y are inherently more reliable than siphonic pans, but make considerably more noise when flushed. F l o o r o r w a l l exit? W h e n r e p l a c i n g a W C p a n , check t o see whether the new- one needs t o have a floor-exit o r wall-exit trap. Concealed cistern Plastic cistern for hiding behind panelling. Close-coupled cislern This type of cistern is designed as pert ol the WCpan

Flo Dr-ex it trap S-traps are connected to a soil pipe that is then passed through the floor

Wall-exit trap The outlet from a P-trap connects to e soil-pipe branch located behind the pan

W- SEE ALSO: WC cisterns 12-14, Installing a WC suite 30, Bathroom planning 70

CHOOSING A WC PAN

Removing an old WC
C u t off the w a t e r supply, then flush the c i s t e r n t o e m p t y it. If y o n are m e r e l y r e n e w i n g a c i s t e r n , y o u w i l l have to d i s c o n n e c t the s u p p l y a n d o v e r f l o w pipes w i t h a w r e n c h a n d l o o s e n the large nut c o n n e c t i n g the flush p i p e to the base o f the c i s t e r n . T h e s e c o n n e c t i o n s arc often c o r r o d e d a n d p a i n t e d - s o it is easier t o h a c k s a w t h r o u g h the pipes close to the c o n n e c t i o n s i f y o u i n t e n d t o replace the entire suite.

WATER CLOSETS REPLACE

Waslidowu pan The most common WC pan, with a simple trap tilled with water.

Removing the old pan and cistern


Remove the f i x i n g screws t h r o u g h the back o f the c i s t e r n , o r lift it off its support brackets and remove t h e m . Lever the brackets off the w a l l w i t h a c r o w b a r if necessary. C u t the overflow pipe f r o m the w a l l w i t h a c o l d chisel. R e p a i r the plaster when you decorate the b a t h r o o m . Single-nap siphonic pan Tile narrow oullet behind the trap slows down the How ol water 0 produce Die siphonic action. If the pan is screwed to a w o o d e n floor, it w i l l probably have a P-trap connected to .1 nearly h o r i z o n t a l branch soil pipe. Remove the pan's floor-fixing screws and scrape out the o l d putty a r o u n d the pipe joint. A t t e m p t t o free the pan by p u l l i n g it towards you while r o c k i n g it slightly f r o m side t o side. if the joint is fixed firmly, smash the pan outlet just in front o f the soil pipe w i t h a club h a m m e r (1). Protect your eyes w ith goggles. Stuff rags into the soil pipe t o prevent debris f a l l i n g i n t o it, then c h i p out the remains o f the pan outlet w i t h a c o l d chisel (2). Work carefully, to preserve the soil pijic. Smash an S-tr.tp in the same way and i f the pan is cemented t o a s o l i d floor, drive a c o l d chisel under its base to break the seal. C h o p out the broken fragments as before, and clean up the floor w i t h a c o l d chisel.

Cutting a soil pipe Use a chain-link cuttet to cute hroken soil pipe square.

Double-trap siphonic pan Air is sucked out from between the two traps to create a vacuum.

1 Break Hie outlet of the pan with a hammer

2 Use a cold chisel to cul out the remnants

Cutting the soil pipe


If you break the soil pipe while c h i p p i n g out the pan outlet, cut the pipe square w i t h a chain-link pipe cutter. T o sever the pipe, c l a m p the c h a i n o f cutters a r o u n d it, and w o r k the tool's shaft back and f o r t h . W h e n you buy a pushfit pan connector (see below), make sure it is l o n g e n o u g h to reach the severed pipe.

Wall-huug pan A waif-mounted pan, connectedlo a concealed cistern, leaves the floor clear tor cleaning. Unless it is built intolhe masonry, the pan is supported by a metal bra cketf stand.

Pan to soil-pipe connection


Before you install the new suite, choose a push-fit flexible connector t o join the pan to the soil pipe. There arc connectors to suit most situations, even when the t w o elements are slightly misaligned. You may need an angled connector to join a modern horizontal-outlet pan to an o l d P-trap branch pipe (see opposite). W h e n selecting a connector, make a note o f the f o l l o w i n g d i m e n s i o n s : the external diameter o f the p a n outlet, the internal diameter o f the soil pipe, and the distance between the outlet and the pipe when the p a n is installed.

CUT HERE Removing an appliance If linings are corroded, remove the appliance by cutting through the Hush pipe, overflow and pan outlet Lubricating connecters When installing plastic soil-pipe connectots, smear the surfaces lightly with a silicone lubricant OFF-SET ANGLED

Push-lit flexible pan connectors

SEE ALSO: Turning off the water 6-9, WC cisterns 28, Chain-link cutter 75

WATER CLOSETS
INSTALLING

Installing a new WC suite


C l e a n the floor a n d m a k e g o o d a n y d a m a g e before y o u b e g i n t o install a n e w W C suite.

SMALL-BORE WASTE SYSTEMS


T h e siting o f a W C is n o r m a l l y limited by the need t o use a conventional 110mm (4in) s o i l pipe and to provide sufficient fall to discharge the waste i n t o the s o i l stack. B y using an electrically driven p u m p and shredder unit, y o u can discharge W C waste through a 2 2 m m ('/Sin) pipe up t o 50m (55yd) away from the stack. T h e shredder will even p u m p vertically, to a m a x i m u m height o f about 4m (12ft). Y o n c a n r u n the s m a l l - b o r e pipework t h r o u g h the n a r r o w space between a floor and c e i l i n g . Consequently, a W C can be i n s t a l l e d as part o f an en-suite b a t h r o o m , i n a basement, even u n d e r the s t a i r s , p r o v i d e d that the space is adequately ventilated. The unit is designed to accept any conventional P-trap W C p a n . It is activated by flushing the cistern, and switches off about 18 seconds later. It must be w i r e d to a fused connection u n i t - via a suitable flex outlet if it is installed in a b a t h r o o m . T h e waste pipe can be connected to the soil stack using any standard 32mm (lMin) pipe boss, provided the manufacturer supplies a 22 to 32mm (}A to lMin) adaptor. A W C waste pipe must be connected to the soil stack at least 200nun (Sin) above o r below any other waste connections. Before you install a small-bore waste system, check that these systems are approved by your local water supplier.

Fitting and plumbing the suite


Push rhe plastic connector o n t o the pan outlet. C h e c k that the inside of the soil pipe is clean and s m o o t h , then slide the pan into place, p u s h i n g the connectot firmly into the pipe. D o n ' t f i x the pan yet. In a concrete floor, d r i l l f i x i n g holes a n d p l u g them. Level the pan o n a bed o f silicone sealant, using scraps o f veneer o r v i n y l floorcovering as p a c k i n g . T r i m the p a c k i n g flush when the job's complete. C o n n e c t the flush pipe, then h o l d the cistern against the w a l l so you can m a r k f i x i n g holes. F i x the cistern w i t h n o n - c o r r o d i n g screws and washers, m a k i n g sure it is level. You may have to use tap washers as p a c k i n g behind the cistern to provide a clearance for rhe lid. T i g h t e n the flush-pipe c o n n e c t i o n under rhe cistern. Fit special protective sleeves into the p a n - f i x i n g holes and screw the pan to Plumbing a WC 1 Overflow-pipe connector 2 22mm (Kin) overflow 3 Cistern 4 Float valve 5 Tap connector G 15mm (14in) supply pipe 7 Flush-pipe connector 8 Flush pipe 9 Push-fit flexible connector 10 WC-pan outlet 11 Flexible outlet connector 12 Soil pipe the floor, tightening the screws carefully in rotation t o avoid c r a c k i n g the pan. Y o u can buy kits that provide all the necessary fixings for fitting W C s . R u n the new 15mm (Siri) supply pipe to the float valve, fit a tap connector and tighten it w i t h a wrench. A t t a c h a 2 2 m m (Kin) overflow pipe, using the connector that's p r o v i d e d . D r i l l a hole through the nearest outside w a l l where an overflow is likely to be detected promptly. Slope the pipe a few degrees d o w n w a r d s , and let ir project from the outer face o f the w a l l at least 1.50mm (6in). If there isn't an external w a l l nearby, run the pipe t o a combined waste a n d overflow unit o n the b a t h . Alternatively, fit a t u n d i s h (see left) and r u n the overflow to the flush pipe o r via a trap t o a d r a i n . T u r n on the water supply and adjust the float valve.

Tun dish A special funnel known as atundish allows you 10 detect an overflow from a cistern.

Fixing a new WC pan to ttle floor All manufacturers advise against the old-fashioned method of cementing a WC panto a concrete floot. In fact, guarantees are usually invalidated if cement or a strong adhesive is used, ffytiti can't screw The pan in place {see right), just rely on the bed of silicone sealant to bond the pan to the floor.

Installing a new highlevel cistern A three-piece adjustable flush pipe allows you to hang a high-level cistern to one side of the pan. Fit a flow restrictor in the pan inlet if splashing water is a problem.

Small-bore waste system for a WC The shredding unit fits neatly behind a P-trap WC pan. When situated ins bathroom, the unit must be wired to a flex outlet. Othetwise, il can be connected directly to a fused connection unit

30

: ~ SEE ALSO: Adjusting float values 8, Connecting pipes 19-27, Concealing pipework 31, Overflow Tank connector 49, Fused connection units 72, Float values 81

47,

81,

Choosing a washbasin
Whether y o u ' r e m o d i f y i n g e x i s t i n g p l u m b i n g o r r u n n i n g p i p e w o r k to a n e w l o c a t i o n , f i t t i n g a w a s h b a s i n i n a b a t h r o o m o r guest r o o m is likely t o present f e w d i f f i c u l t i e s p r o v i d e d y o u give s o m e t h o u g h t to h o w y o u w i l l r u n the w a s t e t o the v e r t i c a l s t a c k . T h e w a s t e p i p e must have a m i n i m u m fall o r s l o p e o f 6 m m (!4in) f o r every 3 0 0 m m (1ft) o f p i p e r u n a n d s h o u l d not be m o r e t h a n 3 m (10ft) l o n g .

a

CONCEALING PIPEWORK
W i t h carefully designed pipe runs, it s h o u l d be possible to p l u m b your house w i t h o u t a single pipe being visible. In practice, however, there are always situations where y o u have no o p t i o n but to surface-run some pipes.

Y o u can m i n i m i z e the effect by t a k i n g , care to g r o u p pipes together neatly and keeping runs b o t h straight and p a r a l l e l . W h e n painted to match the skirtings o r walls, such pipes are barely visible. Alternatively, using softwood battens and p l y w o o d , you can make your own accessible ducting to bridge the corner o f a r o o m ; o r construct a false skirting , that is deep enough to c o n t a i n the pipes, F o r total accessibility, you can use propnerary d u c t i n g made from P V O T h i s is manufactured in a range of sizes, to contain grouped o r individual pipes.

Selecting a washbasin
Wall-hung and pedestal washbasins are invariably made f r o m vitreous c h i n a , hut basins that are s u p p o r t e d all r o u n d by a counter top are also available in pressed steel and plastic. Select the taps at the same time, to ensure that the basin o f your choice has holes at the required spacing to receive the taps - or no holes at all if the taps are to be w a l l - m o u n t e d .

Space lor a basin Allow extra elbow room lor washing hair-a space 1100mm I3fi Sin) x 700mm (2tt 4in) should be sufficient. To suit most people, positioo the rim of a basin 800mm 12ft 8ln| from the floor.

Pedestal basins
The hollow pedestal provides some support for the basin and it conceals the unsightly supply a n d waste pipes.

Wall-hung basins
Older w a l l - h u n g basins are supported on large screw-fixed brackets, but a modern concealed m o u n t i n g is just as strong provided the w a l l fixings are secure. Check that you c a n screw into the studs of a timber-frame w a l l or hack off the lath-and-plaster and install a m o u n t i n g b o a r d . If you want to hide pipes, consider some form of panelling. Wall-liung, basin '1..i w

J!

Corner basins
Handbasius that fit i n t o the corner o f a room arc space-saving, a n d the pipework can be run conveniently t h r o u g h adjacent walls o r concealed by b o x i n g rliem m across the corner.

Recessed basins
In a c l o a k r o o m o r W C where space is very l i m i t e d , a small h a n d b a s i n can be recessed into one o f the walls. A l s o , you can recess a standard basin to conceal the- p l u m b i n g .

Corner basin

Recessed basin

H/i

IfiS^I

Counter-top basins
In a large bathroom or bedroom, you can fit a washbasin or p a i r o f basins into a counter top as part o f a built-in vanity unit. Cupboards below provide ample storage for towels and toiletries, while also hiding the plumbing. Counter-lop basin

SEE ALSO: Fitting a washbasin 33, Bathroom planning 70

WASHBASINS
TAPS

Selecting taps
T a p s w h i c h are n o w very m u c h a f a s h i o n i t e m c o m e i n different styles a n d c o l o u r s . N o t a l l taps are b u i l t t o last, s o c h e c k the q u a l i t y if y o u are b u y i n g f o r the l o n g t e r m . C h r o m i u m - p l a t e d brass taps are the m o s t d u r a b l e . C h e c k t h a t the taps y o u are c o n s i d e r i n g w i l l fit the l a y o u t o f h o l e s i n the b a s i n f o r w h i c h they're i n t e n d e d .
Rising-spindle tap Traditional taps are Tiadewith a rising spindle.
RISING

Types of tap
The majority o f washbasins are fitted with individual taps for hot and c o l d water. W h i l e capstan-head taps are still manufactured for use in period-style bathrooms, most modern taps have a shrouded head made of metal o r plastic. A lever-head tap turns the water from off to full o n w i t h one quarter turn only. This type is convenient for the elderly or disabled, who may have difficulty in manipulating other taps. In a mixer tap, hot and water c o l d are directed t o a c o m m o n spout. Water is supplied at the desired temperature by adjustment of the two valves. W i t h a single-lever m i x e r tap, flow rate and temperature are controlled by adjusting the one lever. W a s h b a s i n m i x e r taps sometimes incorporate a p o p - u p waste p l u g . A series of interlinked.rods, operated hy a button o r s m a l l k n o b o n the centre of the mixer, open a n d close the waste p l u g in the b a s i n . Single-lever mixer tap Moving the lever up and down turns the water on and off. Swinging it from one side to the other gradually increases the temperature, by mixing more hof water with the cold. N o r m a l l y , the body o f the tap (which connects the valves and spout) rests on the upper surface o f the washbasin. But it is also possible t o m o u n t it in its entirety o n the w a l l above the basin. A n o t h e r alternative is for the valves to be mounted o n the basin and divert hot and c o l d water t o a spout mounted o n the w a l l above.

Tap mechanisms
O v e r recent years there have been some revolutionary changes in the design of taps that have made them easier t o operate and simpler to m a i n t a i n . R i s i n g - s p i n d l e taps This t r a d i t i o n a l tap design has a washet on the end o f a spindle that rises as the tap is turned o n . It is a simple, rugged mechanism that lasts for years. N o n - r i s i n g - s p i n d l e taps Theoretically, these taps s h o u l d e x h i b i t fewer problems rhan rising-spindle taps, because the m e c h a n i s m imposes less wear o n the washer. In p r a c t i c e , however, the spindle's fine thread is prone t o wear, and there is p o t e n t i a l for m i s a l i g n m e n t caused by the circlip that holds the mechanism in place. C e r a m i c - d i s c taps W i t h these taps, precision-ground ceramic discs are used in place o f the t r a d i t i o n a l rubber washer. O n e disc is fixed and the other rotates until the waterways t h r o u g h them align and water flows. There is m i n i m a l wear, as hard-water scale o r other debris is unlikely t o interfere w i t h the close fit of the discs. However, if a p r o b l e m docs develop, the entire inner cartridge and the lower seal can be replaced.

SPINDLE

The right pressure Some taps imported from the Continent have relatively small inlets and are intended for use with mainspressure supply only. Thesetaps will not work efficiently if they are connected to a low-pressure tank-fed supply.

Non-rising-head tap A spindle that doesn't revolve reduces west on the washer. WASHER

Ceramic-disc tap The rubber washer is replaced with rotating ceramic discs. CERAMIC
DISCS

Basin and bath taps


(tog tow - left to right)

Single capstan-head pillattaps Single-lever Taps One-hole basin mixer


(bottom row-left to right!

Two - h of e bath mixer Three-hole basin mixer Shower-mixer deck

SEE ALSO: Repairing taps 33

REMOVING OLD TAPS


When replacing taps, you w i l l want to use the existing p l u m b i n g if possible, but disconnecting o l d , c o r r o d e d fittings can be difficult. Apply some penetrating o i l to the tap connectors a n d to the back-nuts that clamp the tap to the basin. W h i l e the oil takes effect, shut off the c o l d and hot water supply t o the taps. If necessary, apply heat w i t h a gas torch to break d o w n the c o r r o s i o n hut wrap a wet cloth a r o u n d nearby soldered joints, o r y o u may melt the solder. Take care that you do not damage plasric fittings a n d pipes, a n d protect flammable surfaces w i t h a ceramic tile. T r y not t o play the flame onto a ceramic basin.

Fitting a washbasin
T u r n o f f the s u p p l y o f w a t e r t o an o l d b a s i n before y o u d i s c o n n e c t it.

Removing an old basin


If you want t o use e x i s t i n g p l u m b i n g , loosen the c o m p r e s s i o n nuts o n the tap tails (see left) and trap. O t h e r w i s e , cut t h r o u g h the waste and supply pipes at the p o i n t where you can most easily connect new p l u m b i n g (1). Remove any fixings h o l d i n g the basin to its support brackets o r pedestal, and lift it f r o m the w a l l . A p p l y penetrating o i l to the brackets' w a l l fixings, in the hope that y o u ' l l be able to remove rhem without damaging the plaster - but as a last resort, lever the brackers off the w a l l . Take care not to break cast-iron fittings, as they can be quite valuable.

1 Cut through old supply pipes wifh a hacksaw

A cranked spanner fits basin and bath taps

Fitting new taps


Fit new taps to the basin before you fix it to the w a l l . Slip the plastic washer supplied with the tap onto its tail, then pass the tail through the hole in the basin. (If no washer is supplied, spread some silicone sealant around the top o f the tail and beneath the base of the tap.) W i t h the basm resting on its r i m , slip a second washer o n t o the tail then hand-tighten the back-nut t o clamp the tap o n t o the basin (2). C h e c k that the spout faces into the b a s i n , then tighten the back-nut carefully w i t h a cranked spanner (see left).

Cranked spanners
It is not always possible t o engage the nuts with a standard w r e n c h . Instead, hire a special cranked spanner designed to teach into the confined spaces below a basin o r bath. Y o u can apply extra leverage to the spanner by slipping a stout metal bar or wrench handle into the other end.

Removing a stuck tap


Even when you have disconnected the pipework and back-nut, you may find that the taps are stuck in place w i t h putty Break the seal by s t r i k i n g the tap tails lightly w i t h a w o o d e n mallet. Clean the remnants of putty f r o m around the holes m the basin, then fit new taps. If the tap tails arc shorter than the o r i g i n a l s , buy special adaptors designed to take up the gaps.

2 Slip the bach-nut onto the tail of the tap

Fixing the basin to the wall


G e t an assistant t o h o l d a w a l l - h u n g basin against the w a l l at the required height while you use a spirit level to check that it is h o r i z o n t a l . M a r k the f i x i n g holes for the w a l l bracket (3). For a pedestal basin (see right), place the pedestal in p o s i t i o n , then sit the basin o n it and mark the f i x i n g holes. Lay the basin (and pedestal) t o one side while you drill and p l u g the holes (4).

Releasing a lap connector Use a special cranked spanner to release the fixing nut of a tap connector.

3 Mark the fixing holes on the wall

4 Diill and plug the holes

SEE ALSO: Turning off the water G, Connecting pipes 19-27, Gas torch 21, 77, Hacksaws 74-5, Spanners and wrenches 77-8

^ | Connecting a basin
O n c e y o u have f i t t e d the n e w taps a n d m o u n t e d the b a s i n securely t o the w a l l , c o m p l e t e the i n s t a l l a t i o n b y c o n n e c t i n g the t r a p a n d waste p i p e , f o l l o w e d by the s u p p l y p i p e s for h o t a n d c o l d water. F i t i s o l a t i n g valves t o the s u p p l y p i p e s , t o m a k e s e r v i c i n g e a s i e r i n the f u t u r e . If y o u arc i n s t a l l i n g a p e d e s t a l b a s i n , fit the t r a p before f i x i n g the b a s i n t o the w a l l .

CONNECTING WASTE PIPE TO SOIL PIPE

A proprietary pipe boss is used to connect a basin waste pipe to a singlestack plastic soil pipe. There arc various ways o f connecting the boss, one of the simplest being t o c l a m p it w i t h a strap. M a r k where the basin waste meets the soil pipe, and use a hole saw to cut a hole o f the recommended diameter (1). S m o o t h the edge o f the hole with abrasive paper. W i p e b o t h c o n t a c t i n g surfaces with the manufacturer's cleaner, then apply g a p - f i l l i n g solvent cement a r o u n d the hole. Strap the boss over the hole and tighten the bolt |2). Insert the rubber l i n i n g in the boss, in preparation for the waste pipe (3). L u b r i c a t e the end of the pipe and push it f i r m l y into the boss (4), C l i p the pipe t o the w a l l .

Plumbing a washbasin 1 Tap beck-nut andwashar 2 Flexible copper pipe 3 15mm f>4in} supply pipe 4 Isolating valves 5 Waste outlet (slot faces overflow! 6 Waste back-nui and washet 7 Bottle trap B32mmiminl waste pipe

Pressed-mela I basin When you fit taps to a pressed-metal basin, slip built-up 'top-hat washers OHIO the tails to cover the shanks. The basin itself maybe supplied with a rubber strip to seal the joint with the counter top. 1 will need a combined 1 waste and overflow, like a bath. Counter-lop basin Manufacturers supply a template for cutting the hole in the counter top to receive the basin Run mastic around the edge to seel a ceramic basin, and Clamp it with the filings supplied.

Typical pipe runs Red: Hoi water Blue: Cold water

1 Cut a hole in the pipe with a hole saw

Fitting trap and waste


Fit the waste outlet into the b o t t o m of the basin as described for taps, using washers o r a silicone sealant to form a watertight seal. T h e basin w i l l probably have an integral overflow r u n n i n g t o the waste, in which case ensure that the slot m the waste outlet aligns w i t h the overflow, l ighten the back-nut under the basin, while h o l d i n g the outlet still by g r i p p i n g its grille w i t h pliers. If you can use the existing waste pipe, connect the trap to the waste outlet and to the end of the pipe. A two-part trap provides some adjustment for a l i g n i n g w i t h the o l d waste pipe. T o r u n a new 3 2 m m (IWin) waste pipe, cut a hole through the w a l l w i t h a masonry core d r i l l . R i m the pipe, w i t h sufficient fall - 6 m m (!4in) per 300mm (1ft) run - to terminate over the hopper on top of the outside downpipe o r feed into a soil pipe (sec far right). Fix the waste pipe to the w a l l w i t h saddle clips.

Connecting the taps


Y o u can r u n standard 15mm (i^in) copper o r plastic pipes l o the taps a n d join them w i t h tap connectors, but it is easier t o use s h o r t lengths o f flexible corrugated copper pipe designed specially for tap c o n n e c t i o n . They c a n be bent by h a n d t o allow for any slight m i s a l i g n m e n t between the s u p p l y pipes and tap tails, and they arc easy t o fit behind a pedestal. Each pipe has a tap c o n n e c t o r at one end and a c a p i l l a r y o r c o m p r e s s i o n joint at the other. Connect the corrugated pipes to the tap tails, leaving them hand-tight only. T h e n run new branch pipework to meet the corrugated pipes, o r connect them to the existing p l u m b i n g . M a k e soldered o r compression joints t o connect the pipes. Use a cranked spanner to tighten ihe tap connectors. T u r n o n the water supply and check the pipes for leaks; i f you need to repair a weeping soldered joint, drain the system.

3 Insenthe rubber lining

Bottle trap it is easy T remove a O blockage from a bottle ttap, because the entire base of the Irap can be unscrewed by hend.

4 Push the waste pipe into the boss

34

* SEE ALSO: Draining the system 8, Connecting pipes 19-27, Cutting soil pipes 29, Fitting taps 33, Mounting a basin 33, Cranked spanner 77

Choosing a new bath


A n antique c a s t - i r o n b a t h c a n b e w o r t h a great deal o f m o n e y , s o get a q u o t a t i o n f r o m a dealer i f y o u decide t o replace it. B e a r i n m i n d that there arc c o m p a n i e s t h a t r e - e n a m e l o l d b a t h s , a n d s o m e w i l l even spray t h e m i n y o u r b a t h r o o m . H o w e v e r , i f y o u r o l d b a t h has deteriorated badly, i t m a y prove m o r e e c o n o m i c a l t o r e p l a c e it - a n d a cracked b a t h w i l l be c o m p l e t e l y b e y o n d repair.

RENOVATING BATH ENAMEL


Y o u can buy t w o - p a r t paints prepared specifically for restoring the enamel surface o f an o l d b a t h , sink o r b a s i n . T o achieve a first-class result, the bath must be s c r u p u l o u s l y clean and dry so tape plastic bags over the taps to prevent water d r i p p i n g i n t o the bath, and w o r k in a w a r m atmosphere where c o n d e n s a t i o n w i l l not occur. T o remove any grease, w i p e the surface w i t h a cloth d a m p e n e d w i t h white s p i r i t ; then p a i n t the bath from the b o t t o m upwards, i n a c i r c u l a r d i r e c t i o n . T h i s type o f p a i n t is selflevelling, so d o n ' t brush it out t o o m u c h . Pick up runs immediately, a n d w o r k q u i c k l y to keep wet edges fresh. F o r a professional f i n i s h , hire a c o m p a n y that w i l l send an o p e r a t o r to spray the bath in situ. The process s h o u l d n ' t take longer t h a n t w o o r three h o u r s . F i r s t , the b a t h is cleaned c h e m i c a l l y ; then a g r i n d e r is used to key the surface and remove heavy stains. A t the same time, c h i p p e d e n a m e l can be repaired. F i n a l l y , s u r r o u n d i n g areas are masked before the b a t h is sprayed.

r-88-, D

Access to a bath Allowa1100x7a0mm (3ft Bin x2ft4inl space beside a bath so that it's possible to climb in and out safely, and For bathing younger members of the family.

Selecting a bath
You can purchase reproduction o r even restored V i c t o r i a n baths in cast iron from specialist suppliers, but they are likely to be expensive, i n practical terms, a cast-iron bath is far too heavy for one person t o handle - even t w o people w o u l d have difficulty c a r r y i n g one to an upstairs b a t h r o o m . A l s o , while a cast-iron bath c a n look splendid when left freestanding in a r o o m , it may be virtually impossible t o clean behind it, and panelling-iii the curved and often tapering shape is rarely successful. Nowadays, the majority of baths are made from enamelled pressed steel, acrylic or glass-reinforced plastic. T w o people can handle a steel bath w i t h ease, and you could carry a plastic bath on your o w n . A l t h o u g h m o d e m plastic baths are strong and durable, some are harmed by abrasive cleaners, bleach and especially heat. It is not advisable to use a gas torch near a plastic bath. So far as style and c o l o u r are c o n cerned, there's n o lack o f choice in any material, although the more unusual baths are likely to be made o f plastic. Nearly every bath comes w i t h m a t c h i n g panels, and o p t i o n a l features such as hand grips and dropped sides to make it easier to step in and out. Taps d o not have to be mounted at the foot o f the bath. M a n y manufacturers offer alternative corner- o r s i d e - i n o i u l t i n g facilities, and some w i l l even cut tap holes to your specification. Y o u can order bath tubs that double as a jacuzzi - but the p l u m b i n g is somewhat complicated, so you w i l l need t o have them professionally installed. Rectangular bath A standard rectangular bath is still the most p o p u l a r and economical design. Baths vary in size from 1.5 t o 1.8m (5 to 6ft} in length, w i t h a choice of widths f r o m 700 to 8 0 0 m m (2ft 4 i n to 2ft Sin]. C o r n e r bath A corner bath actually occupies more floor area than a rectangular bath o f the same capacity, but because the tub is turned at an angle to the r o o m it may take up less w a l l space. By virtue o f its design, a corner bath usually provides some shelf space for essential toiletries. R o u n d bath A r o u n d bath is likely to be i m p r a c t i c a l in most b a t h r o o m s - but i f you are converting a spare b e d r o o m , y o u may decide t o make the bath a feature o f the interior design as well as a practical appliance. Restoring an enamel surface Use a two-part paint system to restore the enamel surface of an old bath. 4

Supporting a plastic bath


A frame w i t h adjustable feet is supplied to cradle a flexible plastic bath. T h e parts need t o be assembled before the bath is fitted into place. Selecting taps for a bath In design and style, bath taps are identical to basin taps, but they ate proportionally larger, with 22mm t'iini tails. Some bath mixers are designed to supply water to a sprayhead, either mounted telephonestyle on the mixer itself or hung from a bracket mounted Dn a wall above the bath.

Assembling the ciadle Turn a bath onto its rim to fit the cradh

SEE ALSO: Selecting taps 32, Plumbing a bath 36, Shower mixers 38

35

ATHS INSTALLING

Plumbing a ba
O n c e a b a t h is Fitted close to the w a l l , it c a n be difficult t o m a k e the joints a n d c o n n e c t i o n s - so fit the taps, overflow a n d t r a p before y o u p u s h the n e w b a t h i n t o p o s i t i o n {see b o t t o m r i g h t ) . Set the adjustable feet t o raise the r i m o f the b a t h t o the r e q u i r e d h e i g h t , a n d c h e c k it for level a l o n g its length a n d w i d t h . If the b a t h has s m a l l feet, cut t w o b o a r d s to g o u n d e r t h e m to spread the p o i n t l o a d over a w i d e r area.

REMOVING AND INSTALLING A BATH


T u r n off the water supply before you d r a i n the system.

Removing an old bath


Have a s h a l l o w b o w l ready to catch any trapped water, then use a hacksaw to cut through the o l d pipes. The overflow pipe from an o l d bath w i l l almost certainly exit t h r o u g h the w a l l , so saw t h r o u g h the overflow at the same time. If the bath has adjustable feet, lowet them and then push d o w n on the bath to break the mastic seal between the b a t h r o o m walls and the r i m . Pull the bath away from the walls. If a cast-iron bath is beyond restoration and therefore worthless, it is easier to break it up i n the bathroom and carry it o u i in pieces. Drape a dust sheet over the b a t h ; then, wearing gloves, goggles and ear protectors, smash it w i t h a heavy hammer. Flack the o l d overflow from the wall with a c o l d chisel, then fill the hole with m o r t a r and repair the plastcrwork.

Fitting the taps


Waste/overflow units A flexible lube lakes any overflow water in Ihe trap. Fit i n d i v i d u a l hot and c o l d taps as for a washbasin. F i t t i n g a m i x e r tap is a s i m i l a r procedure, but most m i x e r s arc supplied w i t h a l o n g sealing gasket that slips over b o t h tails. L o w e r the tails t h r o u g h the holes in the r i m , then slip top-hat washers o n t o t h e m and tighten b o t h back-nuts to c l a m p the m i x e r securely to t' Fit a flexible 2 2 m m pipe (similar to tho for washbasin taps) onto each tail These flexible pipes allow for the easy adjustment that w i l l be necessary if the joints are slightly misaligned. Alternatively, attach short lengths of standard 2 2 m m (Jim) copper or plastic pipe w i t h tap connectors, in preparation for jointing to the pipe ran.

Compression unii Runs lo the cleaning Bye on the trap.

Installing a new bath


Either run new 2 2 m m pirn) supply pipes or attach spurs to the existing ones, ready for connection ro the flexible pipes already fitted on the bath taps. Slide your new bath into position a n d adjusl the height o f the feel with a spanner. Use a spirit level to check that the rim is h o r i z o n t a l . Adjust the flexible tap pipes and join them to the supply pipes. Connect a 40mm (1 hiii) waste pipe to the trap and run it to the external hopper or soil stack, as for a washbasin. Before fixing the bath panels, restore the water supply and check for leaks.

Banjo unit Slips over the tail of the waste outlet.

Plumbing a bath 1 Mixer tap 2 Mixer-tap gasket 3 Mixer hack-nut and washer 4 Flexible copper pipe 5 Overflow unit 6 Waste outlet 7 Waste back-nut and washer I Deep-seal trap to 40mm II Kin I waste pipe 9 Supply pipes 22mm (Wnl

WCand bath overflow Overflow from a W C joins the hath unit.

Fitting waste and overflow


F i l a c o m b i n e d waste and overflow unit to the bath. A flexible plastic hose takes water f r o m the overflow outlet at the foot o f the bath to the waste outlet o r trap. If y o u use a ' b a n j o ' u n i t , you m u s l fit the overflow before the trap; but the flexible pipe o f a compression-fitting unit connects to the trap itself (see left). Spread a layer o f silicone sealant under the r i m of the waste outlet, or f i l a circular rubber seal. Before inserting its tail into the hole in the b o t t o m of the bath, seal the thread w i t h P T F E tape. O n the underside, add a plastic washer; then tighten the large back-nut, bedding the outlet d o w n onto the sealant or the rubber seal. Wipe off excess sealant. Connect the bath trap (see left) to the tail of the waste outlet w i t h its o w n compression nut. (Fir a banjo overflow unit at the same time.) Pass the threaded boss o f the overflow hose through the hole at the foot of the b a t h . Slip a washer seal over the boss, then use a p a i r o f pliers to screw the overflow outlet grille o n . If you're using a compression-fitting overflow, connect the nut located on the other end o f the hose to the cleaning eye of the trap. Typical lank-led bathroom pipe runs Red: Hot water Blue Cold water.

Shallow-seal trap Use this type of trap when space is limited It musl discharge to ayard gully or hopper, not loa soil stack.

* ~ SEE ALSO: Draining the system S, Connecting pipes 19-27, Fitting taps 33, Stack connection 34

Choosing a shower
A l l s h o w e r s , e x c e p t f o r the m o s t p o w e r f u l , use less w a t e r t h a n required f o r f i l l i n g a b a t h . A n d because s h o w e r i n g is g e n e r a l l y quicker than t a k i n g a b a t h , it helps t o a l l e v i a t e the m o r n i n g queue f o r the b a t h r o o m . F o r even greater c o n v e n i e n c e , i n s t a l l a second shower somewhere else i n the h o u s e - this is one o f those i m p r o v e m e n t s t h a t r e a l l y does a d d value t o y o u r h o m e . Improvements in technology have m a d e a v a i l a b l e a v a r i e t y o f powerful, controllable showers. H o w e v e r , m a n y a p p l i a n c e s are superficially similar in appearance, s o it's i m p o r t a n t t o r e a d the m a n u f a c t u r e r s ' l i t e r a t u r e carefully before y o u o p t f o r a particular model.
Pressure and flow When c h o o s i n g a shower, it s h o u l d he borne in m i n d that pressure and flow are not the same thing. F o r example, an instantaneous electric shower delivers water at high mains pressure, hut a relatively low flow rate is necessary to allow the water t o heat up as it passes through die shower unit. A conventional gravity-fed supply system delivers hot water from a storage cylinder under comparatively low pressure, but often has a fairly high flow rate when measured in litres per minute. A d d i n g a p u m p to this type of system can increase the pressure and flow rare. It is then possible to alter the flow and pressure ratio by fitting an adjustable showerhe.td rhat provides a choice o f spray patterns, from needle jets to a gentle cascade (often called 'champagne'].

Gravity-fed showers
In many homes c o l d water is stored in a t a n k , f r o m which it is fed t o a hotwater c y l i n d e r situated at a lower level. B o t h the hot-water a n d c o l d water pressures are d e t e r m i n e d by the height ( k n o w n as the 'head'] o f this c o l d - w a t e r storage tank above the shower. Provided there is at least one metre- (.Jft) between the b o t t o m o f the tank and the showerhead, y o u s h o u l d have reasonable flow rate and pressure. If flow a n d pressure are insufficient for a satisfactory shower, it may be possible t o improve the s i t u a t i o n either by r a i s i n g the tank o r by i n s t a l l i n g a p u m p in the system.

Mains-pressure showers
Y o u c a n supply some types o f shower directly f r o m the mains. In fact, one of the simplest t o install is an instantaneous electric shower, which is designed for use w i t h mains pressure. A n o t h e r alternative is to install a thermal-store cylinder. Mains-pressure water passes through a rapid heat exchanger inside the cylinder {see right]. Yet another o p t i o n is t o store hot water in an unveiucd cylinder - w h i c h w i l l supply high-pressure water to a shower w i t h o u t the need for a booster pump. Nowadays showers are often supplied Iroin c o m b i n a t i o n boilers, though these often need to run at full flow to keep the boiler firing properly. Before buying a shower, check w i t h the manufacturer o f your boiler to ascertain whether there's likely to be a problem. The tma I-store cylinder Mains-fed water pauses through a rapid heat exchanger on its way to the shower. 1 Mains feed 2 To shower 3 Other outlets 4 Boiler connections

Ii
1 1
1

] aF

Shower enclosures If space permits, choose en enclosed shower cubicle (far leftl. However, there are are a number of screens and plumbing options, which make an over-the-bath showct almost as officiant.

Running trap

Drainage
D r a i n i n g the used water away f r o m a shower can be more o f a p r o b l e m than r u n n i n g the supply. If it is not possible t o run the waste pipe between the floor joists or along a w a l l , then you may have t o consider relocating the shower. In some situations it may be necessary t o raise the shower tray on a plinth in order t o gain enough height for the waste pipe to fall (slope) towards the d r a i n . A n o t h e r way to overcome the problem is to install a special p u m p to take the waste water away from the shower. S h o w e r traps W h e n r u n n i n g the waste pipe t o an outside hopper, you c a n fit a convent i o n a l trap - but these are relatively large, which can make for difficulties w h e n i n s t a l l i n g the shower tray. Y o u c o u l d cut a hole in the floor, o r substitute either a smaller, shallow-seal trap or a c o m p a c t trap that includes a removable grid and d i p tube for easy cleaning. A n o t h e r possibility is t o fit a r u n n i n g trap in the waste pipe at .i coo venient l o c a t i o n , or install a self-sealing valve in the pipe. A shower trap that is connected t o a soil stack must have a water seal not less than 5 0 m m (2in) deep. T h e easiest s o l u t i o n is t o fit a c o m p a c t trap, which is s h a l l o w enough to fit under most m o d e r n shower trays, bur is designed to provide the necessary water seal. O r you c o u l d fit either a r u n n i n g trap o r a self-scaling valve, as mentioned above. Section through a compact shower trap

Thisshowerhead provides a choice of spray panerns

Cleaning compact traps Compact traps for showers have a lift-out dip tube for easy cleaning.

*~ SEE ALSO: Thermal-store cylinders 37, 51, Boostet pumps 39,42, Unuented cylinders 51

Shower mixers
Installing an independent s h o w e r c u b i c l e w i t h its o w n supply and waste systems requires some p r i o r experience o f p l u m b i n g b u t i f y o u use a n e x i s t i n g b a t h as a s h o w e r tray, t h e n f i t t i n g a s h o w e r u n i t can involve little more than r e p l a c i n g the taps.

INSTANTANEOUS SHOWERS
A n i n s t a n t a n e o u s electric shower is designed s p e c i f i c a l l y f o r connection to the m a i n s w a t e r supply, u s i n g a single 1 5 m m (/tin) b r a n c h pipe from the r i s i n g m a i n . A n o n - r e t u r n valve must be fitted close t o the unit. Y o u c a n i n s t a l l a n instantaneous shower p r a c t i c a l l y a n y w h e r e , so long as drainage is feasible. I n c o m i n g water is heated w i t h i n the unit, so there is no separate hot-watet supply to balance. T h e shower is thermostatically c o n t r o l l e d to prevent fluctuations i n pressure affecting the water rcmpcratiire - i n fact, it switches off completely i f there is a serious failure o f pressure. Y o u can even buy an instantaneous shower w i t h a shutd o w n facility: when you switch off, the water continues to flow for a little while t o flush any h o t water out o f the pipework. T h i s ensures that someone stepping i n t o the cubicle immediately after another user isn't subjected to an unexpectedly h o i start to their shower.

Thermostatic mixers
A thermostatic shower m i x e r is s i m i l a r in design to a m a n u a l m i x e r but it has an extra control incorporated, to preset the water temperature. If the flow rate d r o p s o n either the hot o r c o l d supply, a thermostatic valve rapidly compensares by reducing the flow o n the other side. This is p r i m a r i l y a safety measure, to prevent the shower user being scalded s h o u l d someone run a c o l d tap elsewhere i n the house. Consequently, you c a n supply a thermostatic shower by means o f branch pipes from the bathr o o m p l u m b i n g but try to join them as near as possible t o the cold tank and hot cylinder. T h e m i x e r can't raise the pressure o f the supply, so you still need a booster p u m p if the pressure is low. T h e r m o s t a t i c m i x e r mechanisms are usually based o n wax-filled cartridges or bimetallic strips. Brand-new thermostatic valves respond extremely q u i c k l y to changes o f temperature, but you can expect the rate to slow d o w n as scale gradually builds up inside the mixer. Even when new, reaction time w i l l be slower if the m i x e r is expected t o cope with exceptionally hot water (above 65C/149' F). A t such high temperatures the hot-water ports arc almost fully closed and the cold-water ones almost w i d e o p e n , so there is very little margin for further adjustment.
J

Bath/shower mixers
T h i s type o f shower is rhe simplest to install. It is connected to the existing 2 2 m m (Mitt) hot and eold pipes i n the same way as a standard bath mixer, and the bath's waste system takes care of the drainage. O n c e y o u have obtained the right temperature ar the spout by adjusting the h o t and eold valves, yon lift a button o n the m i x e r to divert the water to the spray head v i a a flexible hose. T h e sprayhead c a n be h u n g f r o m a w a l l - m o u n t e d bracket to provide a conventional shower, o r hand-held for w a s h i n g hair. T h e m a i n disadvantage w i t h this type o f shower is that the controls are u n c o m f o r t a b l y low to reach. Since the s u p p l y pipes are already part o f the b a t h r o o m ' s p l u m b i n g netw o r k , it's i m p o s s i b l e t o g u a r d against f l u c t u a t i n g pressure unless the m i x e r is fitted w i t h a t h e r m o s t a t i c valve o r y o u install a p r e s s u r e - e q u a l i z i n g valve in the p i p e w o r k . If the pressure is insufficient, fit a booster p u m p . D o n ' t f i t a bath/shower m i x e r unless b o t h the h o t a n d c o l d water is under the same pressure, cither high o r low.

The electrical circuit


A n instantaneous shower requires its o w n circuit from the consumer unit. A ceiling-mounted double-pole switch is connected t o the circuit to turn rhe appliance o n and off.

Surface-mounted or concealed
W i t h most instantaneous showers, all p l u m b i n g and electrical connections are c o n t a i n e d i n a single mixer cabinet that is m o u n t e d in the shower cubicle o r over the b a t h . However, you can buy showers w i t h a slim flush-fitting c o n t r o l panel that is connected to a power pack installed o u t o f sight - for e x a m p l e , under the bath behind a screw-fixed panel. Eir a stopcock o r miniature isolating valve i n the supply pipe to allow the shower to be serviced.

T h e majority of thermostatic mixers can be used w i t h the e x i s t i n g gravityfed h o t and c o l d supply, but it may be necessary t o fir a booster p u m p . C h e c k the manufacturer's literature carefully since some showers perform well at l o w pressures, while others w i l l be less than satisfactory

Manual shower mixers


A m a n u a l shower m i x e r c a n be fixed to the w a l l above a bath o r situated in a separate shower cubicle. M a n u a l m i x e r s require their o w n independent hot and c o l d supply. Simple versions are available w i t h i n d i v i d u a l h o t and c o l d valves, but most m a n u a l shower mixers have a single c o n t r o l that regulates the flow and temperature o f the water. Singlelever ceramic-disc m i x e r s operate exceptionally s m o o t h l y a n d , h a v i n g few m o v i n g parts, are n o t so prone to hard-water scaling. Y o u can choose a surface-mounted unit o r a nearly flush m i x e r w i t h the p i p e w o r k , connections and shower mechanism all concealed in the w a l l . Single-lever mixer With this type of mixer, a single control is used to regulate flow and temperature.

, - SEE ALSO: Wiring a shower 71

SPRAYHEADS
High-performance showers have propagated a new generation o f sprayheads, which offer a variety o f spray patterns. If you're t h i n k i n g o f upgrading an existing shower by installing an electric pump, it's worth finding out whether you can also substitute an adjustable spray he ad. In addition to the standard shower spray, a simple adjustment is all that is needed to produce an invigorating jet to wake you up in the m o r n i n g o r a soft bubbly stream that is ideal for small children. Some sprayheads can also be adjusted to deliver a very light spray while you soap yourself or apply shampoo.

ump-assistetl showers
Power showers
T h e pump-assisted 'power' shower is perhaps most people's concept o f the ideal shower. T h e p u m p delivers water at a constant pressure and flow rate, eliminating the need for the m i n i m u m pressure n o r m a l l y required for a gravityfed shower. M o s t power showers need a head o f about 75 to 2 2 5 m m (3 to 9in) to activate the p u m p when the mixer control is turned o n . A p u m p can be used to boost the pressure and flow rate of stored hot and cold water, but not mains-fed water. Ideally, the c o l d supply should be taken directly from the storage tank not from branch pipes that feed other taps and appliances. T h e hot-water supply can be connected to the cylinder by means o f a Surrey o r Essex flange; this helps eliminate the tendency for the p u m p to suck in air from the vent pipe. If the water is heated by an electric i m m e r s i o n heater, make sure the c y l i n d e r is fed by a dedicated c o l d feed and that the cold-feed gate valve is fully o p e n . T h i s is to prevent the top o f the cylinder r u n n i n g dry and perhaps b u r n i n g out the heater. If the c y l i n d e r is heated f r o m a boiler, make sure the water temperature is c o n t r o l l e d by a thermostat. If the water is t o o hot, the shower c o u l d splutter. Power showers are frequently m a n u factured w i t h an electrically driven p u m p built i n t o the m i x e r cabinet that is m o u n t e d in the shower cubicle. However, some p u m p s are designed for remote installation, w i t h hot and c o l d pipes r u n n i n g to the p u m p then out again to the shower mixer. These freestanding p u m p s can also be used to improve the performance of an existing installation. T h e usual location for this type o f p u m p is next t o the hot-water cylinder in an a i r i n g c u p b o a r d - as low as possible, so that the p u m p remains full o f water. However, there are also pumps that are designed to perform satisfactorily when mounted at a high level - even in the loft, if that is the only o p t i o n available. In such situations, a single-impeller p u m p is best.

Cleaning a sprayhead
Gradually a c c u m u l a t i o n o f lime scaleblocks the holes in the sprayhead, a n d eventually this affects the performance of yottr shower. It's therefore essential to clean the sprayhead, the frequency of cleaning depending on the hardness of the water in the area where y o u live. Remove the entire sprayhead f r o m its hose o r unscrew the perforated plate from the showerhead. Leave the sprayhead o r plate to soak in a p r o p r i e t a r y descalant until the scale has dissolved, then rinse t h o r o u g h l y under r u n n i n g cold water. Before you reattach the sprayhead o r plate, turn o n the shower to flush any loose scale deposits f r o m the p i p e w o r k .

Water Regulations It the shower is mounted in such a way that the sprayhead could dangle below the rim of the both or shower tray, you have to fit double-seal no/i-return valves tn the supply pipes to prevent dirty water being siphoned back into the system

All-in-one power shower The cold supply comes from the storage cistern, and the hot supply from the hot-water cylinder.

A separate booster pump A typical installation with hot and cold supplies being fed through a twin-impeller pump.

High- level pump If this is yout only option, it is best to fit a single-impeller pump between the miner and the sprayhead.

Computer-controlled showers
Electrical installations
Llectrical installations in a b a t h r o o m are potentially dangerous - w h i c h is why they must c o n f o r m to the current Wiring Regulations c o m p i l e d by the Institution o f I dec tri cal Engineers. Before you undertake the w o r k , read the electrical section in this book and check the manufacturers' instructions carefully to make sure y o u understand the requirements for w i r i n g in a bathroom. If you are in any doubt as to the procedure, o r have not had previous experience, hire a qualified electrician. C o m p u t e r i z e d showers a l l o w for the precise selection o f temperature and flow rates, using a touch-sensitive c o n t r o l panel. M u s t panels also include a m e m o r y p r o g r a m , so that each member o f a family c a n select their o w n p r e p r o g r a m m e d ideal shower. Far f r o m being simply a g i m m i c k y sales device, a c o m p u t e r i z e d shower has real advantages for the disabled and for elderly people. These showers are exceptionally easy to operate - and the c o n t r o l panel c a n even be m o u n t e d outside the cubicle, so that it's possible to operate the shower on behalf o f someone else.

SEE ALSO: Cylinder flanges 42, Electricity 69, Electric shock treatment 80

Building a shower cubicle


W i t h o u t d o u b t , t h e s i m p l e s t w a y to a c q u i r e a s h o w e r c u b i c l e is t o i n s t a l l a f a c t o r y - a s s e m b l e d c a b i n e t , c o m p l e t e w i t h tray a n d m i x e r , t o g e t h e r w i t h w a t e r p r o o f d o o r s o r a c u r t a i n to c o n t a i n t h e spray f r o m the s p r a y h e a d . O n c e y o u have r u n s u p p l y p i p e s a n d d r a i n a g e , the i n s t a l l a t i o n is c o m p l e t e . H o w e v e r , f a c t o r y - b u i l t c a b i n e t s arc e x p e n s i v e a n d there is a n a l t e r n a t i v e t o c o n s t r u c t a p u r p o s e - m a d e s h o w e r c u b i c l e t o fit t h e a l l o c a t e d space.

SHOWER TRAYS
Shower trays arc made from a variety of materials, but plastic trays arc the most c o m m o n . T h e relatively cheap lightweight trays tend t o flex slightly in use, so it's p a r t i c u l a r l y important to sea! the edges carefully, using a flexible mastic (don't rely on grout). Thicker cast plastic trays are more substantial and r i g i d , as are ceramic trays. T h e majority o f shower rrays are between 750 and 900mm (2ft 6in and 3ft) square. Y o u can also buy trays that have a cut-off or rounded corner to save floor space. Larger rectangular trays provide more e l b o w r o o m . M o s t trays are designed to stand on the floor and have a surround that is about 150mm (6tn) in height. Some have adjustable feet for levelling the tray; or even a metal underframe to raise it off the g r o u n d , providing a fall for the waste pipe; A plinth screwed across the front of the tray hides the underframe and p l u m b i n g , and provides access to the trap for servicing. Some shower trays are intended to be sunk, so that they arc flush w i t h the floor.

Choosing the site


W h e n d e c i d i n g u p o n the l o c a t i o n o f your shower, consider whether you can use the e x i s t i n g walls - o r do you need new p a r t i t i o n s to enclose the cubicle? Freestand iug Y o u can place the shower tray against a flat w a l l and either construct a stud p a r t i t i o n o n each side o r s u r r o u n d the tray w i t h a proprietary enclosure. C o r n e r site [f you position the tray in a corner o f a r o o m , then t w o sides o f the cubicle are ready-made. R u n a currahi a r o u n d the tray o r install a corner-entry enclosure with s l i d i n g doors. Alternatively, build a fixed side w a l l yourself and put cither a d o o r o r a c u r t a i n across the entrance. Built-in cupboards To i n c o r p o r a t e a shower cubicle tinobtrusively i n a b e d r o o m , place it in a corner, as described above, then c o n struct a b u i l t - i n wardrobe between the shower and the opposite w a l l .

Freestanding unit Two new partitions.

Freestanding unit Proprietary enclosure-

Corner site Enclosed by a curtain

Corner site Partition and curtain.

Corner site Built-in cupboards.

Concealing the plumbing


O n e s o l u t i o n for c o n c e a l i n g the pipes is t o install a p r o p r i e t a r y shower cubicle that has a plastic p i l l a r i n the corner, w h i c h is designed t o h i d e the p l u m b i n g and house the m i x e r and adjustable sprayhead (see left). If y o u erecr a stud p a r t i t i o n , then you can run the pipework between the studs. Screw exrerior-grade p l y w o o d o r cement-based w a l l b o a r d o n the inside of the frame for a tiled finish. A l t e r n atively, use prefinished b a t h r o o m wall panelling. M o u n t the shower m i x e r and sprayhead. Finish the inside w i t h ceramic riles, as required, then seal the shower tray joints w i t h mastic. Y o u w i l l find it easier i f y o u connect the p l u m b i n g t o the shower m i x e r before you enclose rhe outside o f the p a r t i t i o n . If you've decided to fit decorative wall panelling, cut it to size and fix the panels, using screws and the plastic corner profiles supplied. Finally, seal all joints, i n c l u d i n g those a r o u n d the edges of the tray, w i t h waterproof mastic. Shapes and sizes Showoi trays ate hetween 750 and 900mm (2ft in and 3ft) square, usually with a surround that is about 150mm IBin) high, though this does vary, Shaped trays and ones with cut-off corners are useful where space is limited. Large rectangular trays are available to fill roomy shower cubicles.

Running plumbing through a partition Conceal pipework in a simple timber partition covered with ceramic tiles or panelling.

<W SEE ALSO: Enclosing a shower 41, Bathroom planning 70

ravity-fed showers
Use the procedure b e l o w as a g u i d e t o the stage-by-stage i n s t a l l a t i o n of a cubicle and c o n v e n t i o n a l gravity-fed shower. Ideally, y o u s h o u l d run an independent c o l d s u p p l y f r o m the storage t a n k ; a n d f o r the hoi supply, take a b r a n c h p i p e d i r e c t l y f r o m the vent p i p e a b o v e the hot-water cylinder. F i t i s o l a t i n g gate valves i n b o t h s u p p l i e s . U s e the methods described earlier i n this c h a p t e r for f i t t i n g p l a s t i c o r c o p p e r supply pipes a n d d r a i n a g e , i n c o n j u n c t i o n w i t h the m a n u f a c t u r e r ' s recommendations for the s h o w e r y o u are i n s t a l l i n g .
Plumbing n shower 1 Supply pipe 15mm i -: , 2 Connector (push-tit joints ere (airly common! 3 Shower miser fl Waste outlet 5 Back-nut and washer 6 Shallow-seel trap Mora single-stack waste system, use a deep-seal or compact trap or a waste valvel 7 Waste pipe flOmm(lKtn) S Shower tray
n

INSTALLING AN ELECTRIC SHOWER


If you've decided to install an instantaneous shower in the cubicle, r u n b o t h the electrical s u p p l y cable and a single 15mm (V;in) pipe f r o m the r i s i n g m a i n t h r o u g h the stud p a r t i t i o n . Fit a n o n - r e t u r n valve and an isolating valve in the pipe. D r i l l two holes in the w a l l just behind the shower unit for the pipe and cable. J o i n a threaded o r compression connector t o the supplypipe, whichever is appropriate for the water inlet built into the shower unit. Read the section in this b o o k about w i r i n g a shower; then when you make the electrical connections, follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully

H STALLING

Self-sealing waste valve The flexible seal opens under wastewater pressure and then closes to form an airtight seal.

Typical pipe runs Red: Hot water Blue: Cold water Plumbing an instantaneous shower 115mm |t;in| pipe 1 Isolating valve 3 No n-re turn valve 4 Tap connector from rising main 5 Hose to sprayhead

Enclosing a shower
A shower in a cubicle o r over a bath needs t o be provided w i t h some means o f preventing water s p r a y i n g out o n t o the floor. H a n g i n g a plastic or n y l o n fabric c u r t a i n across the entrance is the simplest and cheapest m e t h o d , but it is not really suitable for a power shower. F i t a c e i l i n g - m o u n r e d c u r t a i n track o r a t u b u l a r shower r a i l . Even when a c u r t a i n is tucked i n t o the show'er tray, water always seems to escape a r o u n d the sides of the c u r t a i n , or at least drips o n t o the floor when it is d r a w n aside. F o r a more satisfactory enclosure, use a metal-framed glass o r plastic panelled unit. H i n g e d , s l i d i n g o r c o n c e r t i n a d o o r s operate w i t h i n an adjustable frame fixed to the top edge of (he fray .fiW ihrt/de waits, fifd rhe lower track o n t o mastic to make a w a t e r p r o o f joint w i t h the tray a n d , once you have completed the enclosure, r u n a bead o f masric berween the framework and the tiled walls o f the shower cubicle?

fit tire waste outlet in rhe shower tray ami connect a shallow-seal trap, as for a bath. Alternatively, fir a compact trap that has a removable grill for easy cleaning. Install the tray and run a 4l)mm (lV:in) waste pipe ro an outside hopper. Where the trap is ro connect directly to a soil stack, rather than a hopper, you must use a conventional (deep-seal) trap or a sui'r.titArcwfffWfi/Mp A l t e r n atively, you can fit a r u n n i n g trap or a waste valve (see far right). C h e c k w i t h your B u i l d i n g C o n t r o l Officer. To enclose a shower situated in a c o m e r (sec opposite), construct a stud p a r t i t t c t r u i n mc^nii-.a wd, J', the. i n n e r surface w i t h p l y w o o d or w a l l b o a r d .

C u t a hole in the b o a r d for a flushfittiug shower m i x e r ; o r d r i l l holes for the s u p p l y pipes to a s u r f a c e - m o u n t e d m o d e l . T i l e the inside o f the c u b i c l e w i t h c e r a m i c tiles, u s i n g w a t e r p r o o f adhesive a n d grout. Fit the shower m i x e r and sprayhead to the tiled surface. C o n n e c t the pipework and run it back to the p o i n t o f c o n n e c t i o n w i t h the water supplies. Fit an isolating valve t o each of the supply pipes, then turn off the water a n d make the connections. Once the shower has been tested for leaks, cover the outside o f the partition with plasterboard. Seal around the edges of the tray w i t h a flexible silicone mastic. Finally, fit and seal die shower door.

Proprietary shower enclosure

41

SHOWERS INSTALLING

Installing power showers


If y o u ' r e i n s t a l l i n g a b r a n d - n e w p o w e r shower, it p r o b a b l y pays to o p t f o r a n a l l - i n - o n e m o d e l with an integral p u m p . If y o u are m e r e l y u n h a p p y w i t h the p e r f o r m a n c e o f y o u r e x i s t i n g s h o w e r , t h e n it's m u c h cheaper and more convenient to p l u m b i n a s e p a r a t e p u m p .
Whichever system you choose, check that your cold-water storage capacity is t y p i c a l l y a m i n i m u m o f 115 litres 25 gallons). Some manufacturers also recommend a hor-water c y l i n d e r w i t h a m i n i m u m 161 litres (35 gallons) capacity. D o n ' t connect a power shower ro the m a i n s water supply. B o t h types o f shower need an elect r i c a l s u p p l y t o drive the pump. T h e p u m p is wired t o a r i n g m a m by means of a fused c o n n e c t i o n unit installed outside the b a t h r o o m . A s a means o f i s o l a t i n g the p u m p , use a switched fused c o n n e c t i o n unit; or, i f you prefer, fit a separate c e i l i n g - m o u n t e d d o u b l e pole switch inside the b a t h r o o m . O n c e connected, the shower p u m p switches o n a u t o m a t i c a l l y as soon as the shower valve is operated.

Fitting an all-in-one shower


To p l u m b a shower w i t h an integral p u m p , you can r u n dedicated hot and c o l d supplies to the shower, as when fitting a gravity-fed shower. Alternatively, you can connect the hot-water supply directly to the cylinder by using a cylinder flange. A n Essex flange is connected to the side of the cylinder (1): but t o avoid cutting into the cylinder w a l l , fit a Surrey flange that screws into the vent-pipe connection on top o f the cylinder (2), F i t gate valves in the hot and c o l d supplies, so you're able to isolate the shower for servicing. T h e one appreciable drawback w i t h an all-in-one shower is v i b r a t i o n . If you are m o u n t i n g a m i x e r unit on a timberframe w a l l , it's w o r r h c u s h i o n i n g the unit o n rubber rap washers slid over the f i x i n g screws. A l l t i l i n g and g r o u t i n g needs t o be completed before m o u n t i n g rhe shower on the w a l l . Installing the shower D r a i n the cold-water tank and d r i l l a hole for a t a n k - c o n n e c t o r fitting. Fit a gate valve close t o the tank and r u n the pipe t o the shower unit. T u r n off the c o l d s u p p l y to the hotwater cylinder, and then open the hot raps in the b a t h r o o m to d r a i n a small a m o u n t o f water from the cylinder. Unscrew the vent-pipe connector (3) and catch any residue of water w i t h an o l d towel. W r a p P T F E tape a r o u n d the threads of the Surrey flange, then screw it into rhe cylinder. C o n n e c t the o r i g i n a l vent pipe to the top o f the flange and run the hot s u p p l y for the shower from rhe side c o n n e c t i o n (4). A r r a n g e the p i p e w o r k at the shower end to receive connectors, m a k i n g sure y o u have the hot and c o l d pipes orientated correctly for the particular unit. O p e n the gate valves momentarily to flush the pipes. F o l l o w i n g the shower manufacturer's instructions carefully, run rhe electrical cable t o the shower, ready for connecti o n . Unless you've had some experience of electrical w i r i n g , have the unit wired by a qualified electrician. M o u n t the shower u n i t , using the screws provided and t a k i n g care not ro bore into pipes o r cable. C o n n e c t the pipes to the unit (this is often achieved by means o f simple push-fit connectors}, and connect up the electrical cable t o the t e r m i n a l block iijside the unit. M e t a l pipes must be b o n d e d t o earth. Before you turn on the electricity to the p u m p , attach the shower hose (without the sprayhead) and use the mixer controls to run the shower fully hot then fully c o l d to prime both supplies. Seal a r o u n d the pipes w i t h mastic to prevent water entering the w a l l cavity. Fit the cover on the unit and mount the sprayhead rail o n the w a i l .

Power shower with integral pump

Typical pipe runs Red: Hot water Blue: Cold water

1 Side-entry Fssex Mange

2 Top-entry Sutrey ftange

3 Unscrew vent-pipe connector

4 Attach hot supply for shower

Installing a booster pump


F i t t i n g an electric p u m p can improve the performance of an existing shower. If you have access to the pipe r u n n i n g from the m i x e r to the sprayhead, you can install a single-impeller p u m p that boosts ready-mixed hot and c o l d water (1). If the pipework is embedded behind tiling, install a twin-impeller p u m p in the supply pipes before the mixer. You c a n use the same twin-impeller p u m p to boost the s u p p l y to other outlets in the b a t h r o o m , too (2). 1 Single-impeller pump Boosts ready-mixed water. 2 Twin-impeller pump Can boost other outlets as well as a shower. I'ositioning the p u m p Place the p u m p somewhere convenient for servicing, perhaps on the floor under rhe bath, behind a screw-fixed panel but not where it w i l l be splashed w i t h water. Stand it on a resilient mat o r pads to reduce the noise from vibration, and d o not screw it to the floor. If possible, use flexible connectors to join pipes t o the p u m p to prevent vibration being transmitted to rigid pipework. C o n n e c t u p the p u m p to a switched fused connection unit (see top left). O n c e connected, the p u m p is activated a u t o m a t i c a l l y by flow switches. T he basic p l u m b i n g is identical to that described for i n s t a l l i n g an a l l - i n one shower. Flush the pipes before you switch o n the pump.

42

** SEE ALSO: Turning off the water G, Connecting pipes 20-5,25-7, Storage tanks 49, Electricity 69, Supplementary bonding 69-70, Fused connection units 72, Electric shock treatment 80

Plumbing a bidet
A l t h o u g h a b i d e t is p r i m a r i l y f o r w a s h i n g the g e n i t a l s a n d l o w e r p a r t s o f the b o d y , i t c a n d o u b l e as a f o o t b a t h f o r the e l d e r l y a n d for s m a i l c h i l d r e n . B e c a u s e o f the s t r i n g e n t r e q u i r e m e n t s o f the Water Regulations, installing a b i d e t c a n be a n e x p e n s i v e a n d time-consuming procedure. However, if you're content w i t h the s i m p l e r v e r s i o n , i t is just l i k e plumbing a washbasin.
W h e n p l u m b i n g an over-rim-supply bidet, use exactly the same procedures, pipes a n d connectors described for p l u m b i n g a w a s h b a s i n . F i t the taps, waste outlet and trap, then use a spirit level t o p o s i t i o n the bidet before f i x i n g it t o the floor w i t h non-corrosive screws a n d rubber washers. S u p p l y the hot and c o l d taps w i t h branch pipes f r o m the e x i s t i n g b a t h r o o m p l u m b i n g , and take the waste pipe to the h o p p e r o r stack. W h e n attaching the bidet set and trap t o a r i m - s u p p l y appliance, follow the manufacturer's instructions. Screw the bidet t o the floor before r u n n i n g l . i i n m (Vim) s u p p l y pipes and a 3 2 m m (l'/tin) waste a c c o r d i n g to the Water Regulations (see left). C o n n e c t the c o l d supply t o the tank at the same level as the existing supply pipe.

Installing a bidet

Over-rim-supply bidet
This type o f bidet is simply a low-level basin. It is fitted w i t h i n d i v i d u a l h o t and c o l d taps o r a basin mixer, and has a built-in overflow r u n n i n g to the waste outlet in the b a s i n . There's one disadvantage w i t h an over-rim bidet: the r i m is c o l d when you sit astride it.

Plumbing an over-rim-supply hi del 1 Tap 2 Tap back-nut and washer 3 Tap connector 4 Supply pipe Emm C^in) 5 Waste outlet 6 Waste back-nut and washer 7 Trap SWaste pipe 32mm (1KI)

Rim-supply bidet
A more sophisticated bidet delivers w a r m water to the basin via a h o l l o w rim. Consequently, the r i m is preheated and comfortable t o sit o n , A special mixer set w i t h a douche spray is fitted to this type o f bidet, lr incorporates the normal hot and c o l d valves, but a control in the centre of the m i x e r diverts water from the r i m to the sprayhead mounted in the b o t t o m of the b a s i n . Because the sprayhead is submerged when the basin is full, the Water Regulations stipulate that a rim-supply bidet must take its c o l d water directly from the storage tank and there must be no other connections to this cold-supply pipe. Similarly, the hot-water supply must be completely independent and connected to the vent pipe immediately above the cylinder. C h e c k w i t h your water supplier before installing a bider, ro make sure you comply w i t h the regulations.

Over-rim-supply bidet Typical pipe runs. Red: Hot water Blue: Cold water

Rim-supply bidet Typical pipe tuns. Red: Hot water Blue: Cold watet

OveI-rini-supply bidet Inghtl This type of bidet is simple to install. Follow the same ptocedure as fot a washbasin. Rim-supply bidet {tat right! The installation of this type of bidet is complicated by the submerged douche spray. Independent plumbing is essential, and you will need a special miier set to comply with the Water Regulations.

* ~ SEE ALSO: Connecting pipes 19-27, Washbasins 31, Taps 32, Bathroom planning 70

SINKS
SELECTING

Kitchen sinks
If y o u r a m b i t i o n is t o re-create a p e r i o d - S t y l e k i t c h e n , y o u m a y w a n t a r e p r o d u c t i o n B u t l e r o r B e l f a s t f i r e - c l a y s i n k w i t h a separate teak d r a i n i n g b o a r d . Alternatively, by way o f complete contrast, y o u c o u l d choose a stainless-steel sink t o p i n c o r p o r a t i n g a b o w l a n d d r a i n e r i n a s i n g l e p r e s s i n g . If the ' h i g h - t e c h ' l o o k is n o t t o y o u r l i k i n g a n d it's c o l o u r t h a t y o u ' r e after, there arc g o o d - q u a l i t y resin (plastic), enamelled and ceramic sinks available in a variety o f d e s i g n s a n d sizes.

SINK UNITS, TAPS AND ACCESSORIES


There's a wide range o f kitchen sinks, taps and accessories available for the domestic market. Steel, enamel, resin, ceramic, double, single, p l a i n , coloured - a bewildering choice confronts you when you are p l a n n i n g your kitchen. A cross section of p o p u l a r sinks, accessories and taps is shown below to assist you in making your decision. 1 appropriate size (see opposite). Some sink units have a s m a l l b o w l intended specifically for waste d i s p o s a l . A d o u b l e drainer is another useful feature; but i f there isn't enough r o o m , allow at least some space to the side of the b o w l , t o avoid p i l i n g soiled and clean crockery o n a single drainer. One-piece sink tops are generally made t o m o d u l a r sizes to fir standard k i t c h e n base units. However, m a n y sinks are designed to be set into a c o n tinuous w o r k t o p - which offers greater flexibility in size, shape a n d , above a l l . positioning.
-

Choosing a kitchen sink


C h o o s e the sink to make the best use of available space and to suit the style of your k i t c h e n . If you d o n ' t have a n a u t o m a t i c dishwasher, the kitchen sink must be large e n o u g h to cope w i t h a considerable volume o f washing-up (don't forget t o allow for larger items, such as b a k i n g trays, oven racks and freezer baskets). In a d d i t i o n , check that the b o w l is deep e n o u g h to a l l o w you to fill a bucket f r o m the k i t c h e n tap. If space a l l o w s , select a u n i t w i t h two bowls. If you p l a n t o install a waste-disposal unit. One o f the bowls w i l l need t o have a waste outlet o f the

i A

Double bowl with left-hand drainer

Single howl with right-hand drainer

Inset double-bowl unit

Inset unit with waste-disposaI bowl

Kitchen taps
F.xccpt for being somewhat taller, kitchen taps are comparable in style to those used for washbasins. T h e y also incorporare similar mechanisms and are f i n e d using the same methods. A kitchen m i x e r , however, has an a d d i t i o n a l feature: d r i n k i n g water is s u p p l i e d to it from the r i s i n g m a i n , whereas the hot water usually comes f r o m the same storage c y l i n d e r that supplies a l l the other hot taps in the house. A sink m i x e r s h o u l d have separare waterways t o isolate the one supply f r o m the other until the water emerges from the s p o u t ; o t h e r w i s e , you must have special check valves to prevent possible c o n t a m i n a t i o n o f your d r i n k i n g water. If you are fitting a d o u b l e - b o w l sink, choose a m i x e r w i t h a swivelling spour. Some sink mixers have a hot-rinse spray attachment for removing food scraps from crockery and saucepans. C o n t i n e n t a l m i x e r taps are s u p p l i e d w i t h small-bore malleable copper tail pipes that are screwed i n t o the base of the taps and joined t o the supply pipes by a compression-joint reducer. Pillar tap fever-operated spray Swivel mixers

TRAP

Anti-siphon trap if your trap gurgles as the sink empties, you could replace it with an anti-siphon trap. This type of trap draws in air to break the vacuum in the waste pipe.

Accessories for a kitchen sink


You c a n buy a variety o f accessories to fit most kitchen sinks, i n c l u d i n g a hardw o o d o r laminated-plastic c h o p p i n g board that drops neatly into the r i m of the b o w l or drainer, and a selection of plastic-dipped w i r e baskets for r i n s i n g vegetables o r d r a i n i n g crockery P u m p - a c t i o n dispensers for soap and washing-up l i q u i d r i d rhe sink o f plasric bottles and soap dishes.

Chopping boards

Wire baskets

44

SEE ALSO: Installing a sink 45

Installing a sink
Installing a k i t c h e n s i n k is m u c h t h e s a m e as f i t t i n g a w a s h b a s i n or v a n i t y u n i t . A l l e x c e p t c e r a m i c s i n k s w i l l r e q u i r e a c o m b i n e d overflow/waste o u t l e t , l i k e a b a t h . It p a y s t o f i t a t u b u l a r t r a p t o a s i n k , because a b o t t l e t r a p b l o c k s t o o easily.

WASTE-DISPOSAL UNITS
A waste-disposal unit provides a hygienic method o f dealing w i t h soft food scraps reserving the kitchen wastebin for dry refuse and bones. T h e unit houses an electric m o t o r that drives steel cutters, which g r i n d up the food scraps into a fine slurry to be washed into the yard gully o r soil stack. A continuous-feed m o d e l is opcrarcd by a m a n u a l switch: scraps are then fed into it while the c o l d tap is r u n n i n g . To prevent the unit being switched on accidentally, a batch-feed m o d e l cannot be operated until a removable p l u g is inserted in the sink waste outlet. Waste-disposal units are generally designed to fit an 8 9 m m (3!^in) outlet in the base o f rhe sink b o w l . A special cutter c a n be hired t o adapt a standard stainless-steel o r plastic sink. W i t h a sink waste outlet and seal in p o s i t i o n , clamp a retaining c o l l a r to the outlet from under the sink. Bolt or clip the unit h o u s i n g to the collar: every unit is s u p p l i e d w i t h i n d i v i d u a l instructions. T h e waste outlet f r o m the unit itself fits a standard sink trap (not a bottle trap] and waste pipe. If the waste pipe runs t o a yard gully, make sure it passes t h r o u g h the covering grid (see left). W i r e the unit t o a switched fused c o n n e c t i o n unit m o u n t e d above the w o r k t o p , p o s i t i o n i n g it so that it is out of the reach o f c h i l d r e n . Identify the switch t o avoid accidental o p e r a t i o n .

SINKS INSTALLING

Cutting a hole for a waste-disposal unit The supplier of the waste-disposal unit Inr possibly a tool-hire company! will rent you a special cutter to convert an existing sink. The cutlet can't be used on a ceramic or enamel sink.

Plumbing the sink


Fit the taps and the overflow/waste outlet to the new sink before you place the sink in p o s i t i o n . T u r n off the water supply to the raps, their remove the o l d sink by d i s m a n t l i n g the plumbing. Remove the o l d pipework unless you p l a n to adapt it. C l a m p the new sink t o its base unit ot worktop, using the fittings provided; then, if needed, seal the rim of the sink. Run a 15mm (/?in) cold-water supply pipe from the rising m a i n , and a branch pipe of the same size f r o m the nearest hot-water pipe. Fit miniature isolating valves in both o f the supply pipes and connect them to the taps w i t h flexible copper-tap connectors. Fit the trap and r u n a 4 0 m m (ll^in) waste pipe t h r o u g h the w a l l behind the base unit to the yard gully. A c c o r d i n g to current Water Regulations, the pipe has to pass t h r o u g h the g r i d covering the gully but must stop short o f the water i n the gully trap. Y o u c a n adapt an e x i s t i n g g r i d quite easily by c u t t i n g out one c o r n e r w i t h a sharp hacksaw.

Waste-disposal unit Units differ in detail, but the illustration shuws the components typically used to clamp a waste-disposal unit to a sink. 1 Sink waste outlet 2 Basket 3 Back-up ting 1 Collar 5 Snap ring G Unit housing 7 Cutlets Waste outlet

A fast and hygienic way to dispose of sott food scraps

'W SEE ALSO: Wiring Regulations 6, 81, Connecting pines 19-27, Tap connectors 24, Washbasins 31, Fused connection units 72, Overflow pipe 81

PPLIANCES
INSTALLING

Dishwashers and washing machines


N o w a d a y s d i s h w a s h e r s a n d w a s h i n g m a c h i n e s are r o be f o u n d i n m o s t k i t c h e n s o r u t i l i t y r o o m s . M a d e t o s t a n d a r d sizes t o c o n f o r m w i t h k i t c h e n f i t m e n t s , t h e y fit n e a t l y u n d e r a w o r k s u r f a c e a n d are a t t a c h e d by flexible hoses to a dedicated waste pipe o r to the W h e n 1.5mm (v4in) c o l d a n d hot pipes run conveniently behind o r alongside the machine, use a valve that w i l l bore a hole i n the pipe w i t h o u t your having to turn off the water and d r a i n the system. F.ach valve is colour-coded fot hot o r c o l d , and has a threaded ourlet for the standard machine hose. Selfbore valves are not approved by a l l water suppliers because the small disc of metal they cut from the pipe may restrict the flow o f water. In practice, this hardly ever happens. To fit a valve, screw the hackplate to the w a l l behind the pipe. Place the saddle w i t h its rubber seal over the pipe. Before screwing the saddle to the backplate (1), ensure that the seal in the saddle is p o s i t i o n e d correctly. M a k e sure the valve is turned off, then screw it into the saddle (2). As you insert the valve, the integral cutter bores a hole in the pipe. W i t h the valve in the vertical position, tighten the adjusting nut w i t h a spanner (3); then connect the hose to the valve outlet (4).

Self-bore valves

w a s t e f r o m the k i t c h e n o r u t i l i t y - r o o m s i n k . A u t o m a t i c m a c h i n e s s h o u l d have p e r m a n e n t s u p p l y a n d w a s t e systems. D i s h w a s h e r s need a c o l d supply only, whereas w a s h i n g m a c h i n e s m a y be h o t - a n d - c o l d f i l l . W a s h i n g m a c h i n e s t h a t are s u p p l i e d w i t h h o t w a t e r p r o v i d e a faster w a s h i n g c y c l e ; a n d t h e y m a y b e m o r e e c o n o m i c a l t o r u n , d e p e n d i n g o n h o w y o u heat y o u r w a t e r . A n y r e t a i l e r w i l l be h a p p y t o a d v i s e y o u .
1

Water pressure
Appliance valves Typical valves used to connect dishwashers and washing machines to the water supply T h e instructions a c c o m p a n y i n g the machine should indicate what water pressure is required. If the machine is installed upstairs, make sure the d r o p from the storage tank t o the machine is big enough t o provide the required pressure. In a downstairs kitchen o r utility room there is rarely any p r o b l e m w i t h pressure, especially if you can take the cold water from the mains supply at the sink. However, check w i t h your water supplier i f you want t o connect more than one machine.

In-line valve

Right-angle valve

T-piece valve Plumbing a washing machine 1 Supply pipe15mm Kin) 2 Appliance valve 3PVC inlet hoses 4 Machine inlets 5 Outlet hose 6 Standpipe 7 Trap 8 Waste pipe - 40mm (tHin) - to gully

Running branch pipes


If you have t o extend the p l u m b i n g to reach the machine, take branch pipes from the hot and c o l d pipes supplying the kitchen taps. Terminate the branch pipes ar a convenient position close to the machine, and fit a small appliance valve (sec far left) that has a standard compression joint for connecting to the pipework a n d a threaded outlet for the machine hose. Before fitting this type o f valve, turn off the water and drain the system in the n o r m a l way. When you have restored the supply, open the valve by t u r n i n g rhe control level ro align w i t h the outlet.

Running the supply


W a s h i n g machines and dishwashers are supplied w i t h P V C hoses t o link the water inlets at the back of the appliance to special miniature valves connected to the h o u s e h o l d p l u m b i n g . U s i n g these valves, you can turn off the water when you need to service a machine, w i t h o u t having t o disrupt the supply t o the rest of the house. There are a number of valves t o choose from. Select the type that provides the mosr practical method of c o n n e c t i n g to the p l u m b i n g , dependi n g o n the location of the machine in relation t o existing pipework.

46

SEE ALSO: Draining the system 8, Connecting pipes 19-27, Storage tanks 49

SUPPLYING DRAINAGE
The outlet hose from a dishwasher o r washing machine must be connected t o a waste system that wit! discharge the dirty water into either a yard gully o r a single waste stack not into a surfacewater drain, where detergents c o u l d pollute rivers.

Preventing a floo
Overflowing dishwashers and w a s h i n g m a c h i n e s can cause a great d e a l o f d a m a g e i n just a few m i n u t e s p a r t i c u l a r l y i f the a p p l i a n c e is p l u m b e d i n t o a n u p s t a i r s flat a n d the w a t e r is able t o f i n d its w a y t h r o u g h a multi-storey building.
FLOAT VALVE AIRHOLE RUBBER SEAL VALVE BODY

\PPLIANCES INSTALLING

Standpipe and trap


The standard method, approved by all water suppliers, employs a vertical 40mm ( l n t n ) plastic standpipe attached to a deep-seai trap (see opposite). M o s t p l u m b i n g suppliers stock the standpipe, trap and w a l l fixings as a k i t . The machine hose fits loosely into the open-ended pipe, so that dirty water won't be siphoned back i n t o the machine. T h e machine manufacturer's instructions should tell you how to position the standpipe; in rhe absence of advice, ensure that the open end is at least 600mm (2ft) above the floor. Cut a hole through the w a l l and run the waste pipe t o a gully; or use a pipe boss t o connect the waste t o a drainage stack. A l l o w a m i n i m u m fall of 6 m m (Win) for every 3 0 0 m m (1ft) o f pipe r u n .

Air-inlet valves
M o s t overflows o c c u r s i m p l y because the water backs u p the waste pipe and spills out over the standpipe o r sink. A sealed waste system succeeds in o v e r c o m i n g this p r o b l e m - since it does away w i t h the air gap that allows the water to overflow. 1'he a n t i - v a c u u m function is formed, instead, by a fitting that incorporates a small air-inlet valve, which stops the waste pipe s i p h o n i n g the machine. T h e discharge hose from the machine is connected to the nozzle of the vent fitting, and a length o f 4 0 m m ( l h i n ) waste pipe is inserted between the fitting and the washing machine trap under the sink.

Preventing an overflow from a standpipe Fit a special vent with an integral air-inlet valve.

Draining to a sink trap


You can d r a i n a w a s h i n g machine to a sink trap that has a built in zpigDt (1), but you s h o u l d insert an in-line antisiphon return valve in the machine's outlet hose. T h i s is a small plastic device w i t h a hose connector at each end (2). In order to d r a i n a w a s h i n g machine and dishwasher together, you will need a dual-spigot trap.

Anti-siphon devices
T he standpipe-and-trap m e t h o d o l d r a i n i n g domestic appliances prevents back-siphonage by venting the pipe to the air, but there are other ways t o deal w i t h the p r o b l e m . If an e x i s t i n g 32 o r 4 0 m m ( l ! 4 o r V/iin) waste pipe runs behind the machine, for e x a m p l e , you c a n attach a hose connector that incorporates a n o n - r e t u r n valve t o eliminate reverse flow. C o n n e c t o r s are available w i t h short spigots (1), o r can be attached t o a standpipe. C o n n e c t i n g to the waste pipe C l a m p the saddle over the waste pipe (2), then use the cutter s u p p l i e d w i t h the fitting t o bore a hole in the pipe, w i t h the saddle acting as a guide (3). 1 Short-spigot ami-siphon connector This type of connector is clamped to a waste pipe that runs behind the machine.

1 Sink trap with drainage spigot

2 In line anti-siphon hose valve

3 Boie a hole with the special cutter

SEE ALSO: Connecting pipes 19-27

APPLIANCES INSTALLING

Water softeners
H a r m f u l i m p u r i t i e s are r e m o v e d f r o m w a t e r b e f o r e i t is s u p p l i e d to o u r homes, but minerals a b s o r b e d f r o m the g r o u n d are s t i l l present a n d it's the c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f these t h a t d e t e r m i n e s w h e t h e r o u r w a t e r is h a r d o r soft. R o c k y t e r r a i n gives rise t o s u r f a c e - r u n water, w h i c h is n a t u r a l l y soft w h e r e a s i n areas o f the c o u n t r y w h e r e w a t e r r u n s t h r o u g h the g r o u n d , r a t h e r t h a n o v e r it, the h i g h e r m i n e r a l c o n t e n t p r o d u c e s h a r d water.
Installing a water softener may appear to be fairly c o m p l i c a t e d since it involves a great deal of joint m a k i n g - b o t h to fit the valves and branch pipes that supply and bypass the softener and to include the fittings that are necessary to comply w i t h the Water Regulations. T h e bypass assembly allows for the unit t o be isolated for servicing while maintaining the supply of water to the rest o f the house. In a d d i t i o n , you must install a branch pipe before the assembly, in order ro supply unsoftened d r i n k i n g water t o the kitchen sink. Supply your garden tap (see top tight) from the same pipe - there's no need to waste softened water on the garden. Install a n o n - r e t u r n valve in the system, t o prevent the reverse flow o f salty water. A pressure-reducing valve may also be required (check w i t h your warcr supplier). Y o u w i l l need a d r a i n cock, in order to empty the r i s i n g m a i n . Some manufacturers supply an installation kit that includes all the necessary equipment. Y o u w i l l have to provide drainage m the f o r m of a standpipe and trap, as for a w a s h i n g machine. Wire the water softener t o a switched fused connection unit that contains a 3 a nip fuse.

FITTING A GARDEN TAP


A b i b tap situated on an outside wall is convenient for attaching a hose for a l a w n s p r i n k l e r o r for washing the car. To c o m p l y w i t h the Water Regulations, a double-seal non-return (check) valve must be incorporated in the plumbing, to prevent contaminated water being drawn back into the system. Provide a means o f shutting off the water and d r a i n i n g the pipework d u r i n g winter, and keep the outside pipe run as short as possible.

Installing a water softener

Water softener A damestlc unit, which firs neatly beneath the worktop, requires lopping up with salt.

Hard-water scale
M i n e r a l salts are deposited in the form of hard scale on the inside o f pipes, tanks and, especially, hot-water cylinders. If the concentration o f minerals is very high, scale w i l l eventually block pipework and can insulate heating elements to such an extent that their efficiency is reduced by anything from 15 to 70 per cent. T h e more obvious-consequences o f hard water are the d i s c o l o r a t i o n o f baths and basins, blocked sprayheads, blemished srainless-sreel surfaces and furred-up kettles. M o s t people resign themselves to l i v i n g w i t h these effects - but they c a n be reduced, o r even e l i m i n a t e d altogether, by i n s t a l l i n g a water softener.

Pipes and fittings to supply a garden tap

Domestic water softeners


Water softeners w o r k o n the p r i n c i p l e of i o n exchange. T h e i n c o m i n g water flows through a c o m p a r t m e n t c o n t a i n i n g a synthetic resin that absorbs scalef o r m i n g c a l c i u m and magnesium ions and releases s o d i u m ions in their place. After a p e r i o d o f about three o r four days, the resin is unable to a b s o r b any more m i n e r a l salts a n d the softener a u t o m a t i c a l l y flushes the c o m p a r t m e n t w i t h a saline s o l u t i o n t o regenerate the resin. T o p p i n g up w i t h salt is required at intervals of perhaps t w o to three m o n t h s . T h e softener is fitted w i t h a timer so that y o u can p r o g r a m regeneration when water c o n s u m p t i o n is at its lowest, usually d u r i n g the early hours o f the m o r n i n g . T h e unit must be connected to the rising main at the p o i n t where the water supply enters the house. For this reason, domestic softeners are usually designed to fit under a kitchen worktop. Plumbing a water softener Drain rising main and insert the following installation. Use 15mm Kin} pipes and joints, f Main stopcock 2 Drinking-water pip 3 Supply to garden tap ihlon-relum valve 5 Draincock G Softener inlet valve 7 Bypass valve (open this valve and close the others to service the softener). 8 Soften et teturn valve 9 Rising main

T u r n off and d r a i n the mains supply. Fit a T - j o i n r (1) to r u n the supply to the tap. R u n a s h o r t length o f pipe to a convenient p o s i t i o n f o r another stopcock (2) o r m i n i a t u r e valve, and for the n o n - r e t u r n valve (3) if the tap doesn't include one, m a k i n g sure that the arrows m a r k e d o n b o t h fittings p o i n t in the d i r e c t i o n o f flow. F i t a d r a i n c o c k (4) after this p o i n t . Run a pipe t h r o u g h the w a l l inside a length of plastic overflow (5), so that any leaks w i l l be detected q u i c k l y and will n o r s o a k the masonry. W r a p P T F E tape a r o u n d the bib-tap thread, then screw it i n t o a w a l l plate attached to the m a s o n r y outside (8).

Typicat pipe runs A domestic system incorpotating a softener. Red: Hot water Blue: Cold water

A suitably robust bib tap for use outdoors

48

i * - SEE ALSO: Draining the system 8, Connecting pipes 19-27, Washing machines 46-7, Fused connection units 72, PTFE tape HI

Storage tanks
The c o l d - w a t e r storage t a n k , o r cistern, n o r m a l l y situated i n the r o o f space, supplies the h o t water c y l i n d e r a n d a l l the c o l d taps i n the h o u s e , other t h a n the one i n the k i t c h e n that is used for d r i n k i n g water. A n o l d h o u s e may still have a galvanized-steel tank that has been i n service since the h o u s e was b u i l t . B u t eventually this w i l l c o r r o d e a n d , although it's possible t o p a t c h it up t e m p o r a r i l y , it m a k e s sense to replace i t before a serious leak develops. A c i r c u l a r 227 litre (50 gallon) p o l y t h e n e t a n k is a popular replacement, because it can be folded t o pass t h r o u g h a narrow h a t c h t o the loft.
O n c e the new t a n k is in place, you c a n set a b o u t c o n n e c t i n g the numerous pipes and fittings that are required. Fitting the float valve A float valve shuts off the flow o f water f r o m the r i s i n g m a i n when the tank is full. C u t a hole for the float valve 75nitu (3in) below the top o l the tank. S l i p a plastic washer onto the tail of the valve and pass it through the hole. Slide the reinforcing plate o n t o the t a i l , followed by another washer and a f i x i n g nut, then tighten the fitting w i t h the aid of two spanners. Screw a tap connector o n t o the float valve, ready for connecting t o the l . i m n i (H>in) rising m a i n . C o n n e c t i n g the d i s t r i b u t i o n pipes T h e 2 2 m m l?Mn) pipes r u n n i n g t o the c y l i n d e r a n d c o l d taps arc attached by means o f tank connectors - threaded inlets w i t h a c o m p r e s s i o n fitting for the p i p e w o r k . D r i l l a hole for each tank connector, about 5 0 m m (2in) above the b o t t o m o f the t a n k . Push the fittings t h r o u g h each hole, w i t h one polythene washer o n the inside. W r a p a couple o f turns of P T F E tape a r o u n d the threads, then fit the other washer. Screw rhe nut o n , h o l d i n g the tank connector t o stop it t u r n i n g . D o n ' t overtighten the nut o r y o u w i l l damage the washer, c a u s i n g it to leak. Take the o p p o r t u n i t y t o fit a gate valve t o each d i s t r i b u t i o n pipe, so you c a n cut off the s u p p l y o f water w i t h o u t having t o empty the tank. C o n n e c t i n g the overflow D r i l l a hole 2 5 m m (1 in) below the level of the float-valve inlet for ihc threaded connector o f the overflow-pipe assembly Pass the connector through the bole, fit a washer, and tighten its f i x i n g nut on the inside of the tank. Fit the dip pipe and insect filter. A t t a c h a 2 2 m m (Win) plastic overflow pipe to the assembly. R u n the pipe to the floor, then to the outside of the house, m a i n t a i n i n g a c o n t i n u o u s fall. T h e pipe must emerge in a c o n s p i c u o u s p o s i t i o n , so that an overflow can be detected immediately. C l i p the pipe t o the roof timbers. .Modifying existing plumbing M o d i f y the r i s i n g m a i n and d i s t r i b u t i o n pipes to align w i t h their fittings, then connect them w i t h compression fittings. (Don't use soldered joints near a plastic tank.) C l i p all the pipework securely to the joists. O p e n the m a i n stopcock and check for leaks as the tank fills. A d j u s t the float a r m t o m a i n t a i n a water level 2 5 m m ( l i n ) below the overflow outlet. A d a p t the vent pipe f r o m the hotwater c y l i n d e r to pass t h r o u g h the hole in the l i d . F i n a l l y , insulate the tank and p i p e w o r k - but make sure there is no loft i n s u l a t i o n under the c i s t e r n , as this w i l l prevent w a r m t h r i s i n g f r o m below.

ORAGE

Plumbing a new tank

Tank cutlers Hire a lank cutler to bore holes in the tank for pipework. Some cutters are adjustable, so you can dtiil holes of different diameters. An alternative isto use a hole saw clamped to a dtill bit

Bylaw 30 kits
Make sure your new l a n k is s u p p l i e d with a Bylaw 30 k i t , to keep the water clean. T h i s is a ret] u item en r o f all water suppliers. T h e kit includes a close-fitting, l i d that excludes light and insects, and is fitted w i t h a screened breather and a sleeved inlet for the vent pipe. In a d d i t i o n , there should be a n overflow-pipe assembly that is screened to prevent insects c r a w l i n g i n t o the tank, 3 reinforcing plate to stiffen the cistern w a l l a r o u n d the float valve, and an insulating jacket.

Hole saw

Adjustable cutter

Removing an old tank


Switch off all water-heating appliances, then close the stopcock o n the rising main. D r a i n the storage tank by opening the cold taps in the b a t h r o o m . Bail out the remaining water in the bottom o f the tank, then use a spanner to dismantle the fittings connecting the float valve, distribution pipes and overflow to the tank. Use a little penetrating oil if the fittings are stiff w i t h c o r r o s i o n . The tank may have been built into the house before the roof was completed, in which case it's unlikely to pass through the hatch. Just pull it to one side. If you need the space, it is possible to cut the tank up, using an angle grinder. Wear a mask, gloves, goggles and ear defenders while you w o r k . Prepare a f i r m base for the new tank by nailing stout planks across the joists, or lay a platform made from p l y w o o d IStnm (%n) t h i c k .

Plumbing a lank. 1 Roatvalve 2 Reinforcing plate 3 Tap connector fl Rising main 5 Tank connector 6 Gale valve 7 Distribution pipe 22mm (Mint B Pipe clip 9 Overflow-pipe assembly 10 Overflow pipe 11 Vent pipe

SEE ALSO: Bate value 8, Adjusting a float arm 14, Compression joints 20, Tap connectors 24, Hot-water cylinders 5D-1, Float values 81

^^1 ^^

Vented hot-water cylinders! HOT-WATER CYLINDERS


In m o s t houses, the h o t w a t e r is h e a t e d a n d s t o r e d i n a l a r g e c o p p e r c y l i n d e r s i t u a t e d i n the a i r i n g c u p b o a r d . C o l d w a t e r is fed t o the base o f the c y l i n d e r f r o m the c o l d - w a t e r storage t a n k h o u s e d i n the loft. A s the w a t e r is h e a t e d , it rises t o the t o p o f the c y l i n d e r , w h e r e it is d r a w n off v i a a b r a n c h f r o m the vent p i p e t o the h o t taps. W h e n the h o t w a t e r is r u n off, i t is r e p l a c e d b y c o l d w a t e r at the base o f the c y l i n d e r , r e a d y for h e a t i n g . T h e vent p i p e itself r u n s b a c k t o the l o f t , w h e r e i t passes t h r o u g h the l i d o f the c o l d - w a t e r storage t a n k , w i t h its o p e n e n d just a b o v e the level o f the water. T h e vent p i p e p r o v i d e s a safe escape r o u t e f o r a i r b u b b l e s a n d s t e a m , s h o u l d the s y s t e m o v e r h e a t . W h e n w a t e r is h e a t e d , it e x p a n d s . The vent p i p e a c c o m m o d a t e s s o m e o f this e x p a n s i o n , b u t m u c h o f the excess w a t e r is forced b a c k u p the c o l d - f e e d p i p e i n t o the c o l d - w a t e r storage t a n k .
T h e capacity of domestic cylinders n o r m a l l y ranges from about 114 litres (25 gallons) to 227 litres (50 gallons), although it is possible to obtain biggct cylinders ro meet the requirements of a large family; A cylinder w i t h a capacity of between 182 and 227 litres (40 and 50 gallons) w i l l store enough hot water to satisfy the needs o f an average family for a whole day. Some cylinders arc made from thin, uninsulated copper and need to have a thick lagging jacket ro reduce heat loss. However, for better performance use a K i t e - m a r k e d factory-insulated cylinder that is prccovered w i t h a thick layer of foamed polyurethane. A l t h o u g h more expensive, they are a good investment.

Typical pipe funs Red: Hotwater Blue: Cold water

Methods of heating water


There art: t w o different methods of heating the water in a vented hot-water cylinder: either directly - usually by means of electric i m m e r s i o n heaters - or indirectly by a heat exchanger connected to the central-heating system. Direct h e a l i n g Water heating can be a c c o m p l i s h e d solely by means o f electric i m m e r s i o n heaters - c i t h e r a single-element o r double-element heater is fitted in the top o f the c y l i n d e r or there may be t w o i n d i v i d u a l side-entry heaters. A n alternative is for the water t o be heated in a boiler, the sole purpose o f which is t o provide hot water for the cylinder. A cold-water pipe runs from the base o f the c y l i n d e r t o the boiler, where the water is heated; and it then returns t o the top half o f the cylinder. B o t h methods arc k n o w n as direct systems. In practice, a boiler-heated c y l i n d e r is generally fitted w i t h a n i m m e r s i o n heater as w e l l , so that hot water can be s u p p l i e d independently d u r i n g the summer, when using the boiler w o u l d make the r o o m where it is situated u n c o m f o r t a b l y w a r m . Direct cylinder 1 Vent pipe 2 Hot-water branch pipe 3 Lower immersion hoeter Iprovides hot water using cheaper nightrate electricity) 4 Opper immersion healer (used fordaytima top-op heating onlyl 5 Cold-feed pipe 6 Draincock Indirect heating W h e n a house is centrally heated w i t h radiators fed by a boiler, the water in the c y l i n d e r is usually heated indirectly hy a heat exchanger. H o t water from the boiler passes t h r o u g h the exchanger (a c o i l e d tube w ithin the c y l i n d e r ) , where the heat is transmitted t o the stored water. T h e heat exchanger is part o f a completely self-contained system, w h i c h has its o w n feed-and-expansion tank (a s m a l l storage tank in the loft) t o top up the system. A n open-ended vent pipe terminates over the same s m a l l tank. T h e whole system is k n o w n as the p r i m a r y c i r c u i t , and the pipes r u n n i n g f r o m and back to the boiler are k n o w n as the p r i m a r y flow and r e t u r n . A n indirect system is often supplemented w i t h an i m m e r s i o n hearer, t o provide hot water d u r i n g the s u m m e r m o n t h s . Indirect cylinder 1 Vent pipe 2 Back-up Immersion heatet 3Flowtrom boiler 4 Heal exchanger 5 Return to boiler 6 Oraincock 7 Cold feed from tank

Changing a cylinder
You may w i s h to replace an existing cylinder because it has s p r u n g a leak, or because a larger one w i l l allow yon to take full advantage of cheap nighttime electricity by storing more hot water, A simple replacement can sometimes be achieved without m o d i f y i n g the p l u m b i n g , but y o u ' l l have t o adapt the pipework to fit a larger cylinder. If you p l a n to install central heating at some point in the future, you can p l u m b in an indirect cylinder fined w ith a double-element immersion heater and simply leave the heat-exchanging coil unconnected for the time being. First switch off and disconnect any i m m e r s i o n heaters from the electrical supply, then drain the cylinder and pipew o r k . U s i n g a special spanner (available from a tool-hire outlet), unscrew the i m m e r s i o n heaters. Disconnect all the pipework, springing it out o f the way while you remove the cylinder. Place the new cylinder in position and check the existing pipework for alignment. M o d i f y the pipes as need be, then make the connections, using P T F E tape to ensure that the threaded joints ace watertight. Fit a draincock ro the feed pipe f r o m the tank, if there isn't one already installed. With the fibre sealing washer in place, wrap P T F E tape a r o u n d the thread of the immersion heater and screw it into the cylinder. Connect the immersion heater t o the electrical supply, then fill the system and check for leaks before you attempt t o heat the water. Check for leaks again when the water is up ro temperature.

Direct water heating by means of a boiler

Indirect water beating employs The centralhealing tioiler

50

~ S E E A L S O : Draining the system 8, Connecting pipes 19-27, Compression joints 20, Wiring side-entry heaters 73,

Wiring immersion heaters 73, Electric shock treatment 80, PTFE tape 81

THERMAL-STORE CYLINDERS
A thermal-Store cylinder reverses the indirect p r i n c i p l e . Water heated by a central-heating boiler passes through the cylinder a n d transfers heat, via a highly efficient c o i l e d heat exchanger, to mains-fed water s u p p l y i n g hot taps t o d showers. A n integral feed-and cxpansion tank is n o r m a l l y built on top of the cylinder. When the system is w o r k i n g at m a x i mum capacity, the mains-fed water is delivered at such a high temperature that c o l d water must be added via a thermostatic m i x i n g valve p l u m b e d into the outlet s u p p l y i n g taps a n d showers. A s the cylinder is exhausted, less c o l d water is added. The t h e r m a l store system provides mains-pressure hot water t h r o u g h o u t the house, dispenses w i t h the need for a cold-water storage tank in the loft, a n d increases the efficiency o f the boiler. A valve is needed to prevent the beat from the cylinder 'rhermo-siphoning' (gravity circulating) around rhe centralheating system. T h i s can be a motorized valve o r a simple mechanical gravitycheck (non-return) valve that is opened by the force o f the central-heating pump. A s w i t h all open-vented systems, the feed-and-expansion tank determines the head o f water, and radiators must be lower than the tank i n order t o be filled with water. When the tank is c o m b i n e d with the cylinder, it needs to be situated on the top floor of the house i n order to provide central heating throughout the building. If that is impossible, install a tankless thermal-store cylinder and fit a conventional feed-and-expansion tank in the loft. Thermal-store cylinder 1 Integral feed-andexpansion tank 2 Heal-exchanger 1 Supply pipe lo hot taps/shower 4 Thermostatic mixing value

Invented cylinders
A n unvented cylinder supplies mains-pressure hot water througho u t the h o u s e . T h i s is a c h i e v e d b y c o n n e c t i n g t h e c y l i n d e r d i r e c t l y to the r i s i n g m a i n . M o s t m a n u f a c t u r e r s r e c o m m e n d a 2 2 m m (%in) i n c o m i n g p i p e , b u t i n p r a c t i c e a 1 5 m m (|/:in) m a i n at h i g h pressure is n o r m a l l y a d e q u a t e . A n u n v e n t e d c y l i n d e r c a n be h e a t e d d i r e c t l y , using i m m e r s i o n heaters; o r indirectly, p r o v i d e d y o u are n o t using a solid-fuel boiler.
T h e r e are n o storage tanks, feed-ande x p a n s i o n tanks o r open-vent pipes associated w i t h unvented cylinders. Instead, a d i a p h r a g m inside a pressure vessel m o u n t e d o n t o p o f the c y l i n d e r flexes to a c c o m m o d a t e e x p a n d i n g water. If the vessel fails, an e x p a n s i o n relief valve protects the system by releasing water via a discharge pipe. There are several other safety devices associated w i t h unvented cylinders. A n o r m a l thermostat s h o u l d keep the temperature o f the water i n the cylinder below 65C (150 F). If it reaches 90C (195F), then a second thermostat w i l l either switch off the i m m e r s i o n heaters or shut off the water supply from the boiler. Finally, i f it s h o u l d get as hot as 95C (20S 'F), a temperature-relief valve opens a n d discharges water outside.
D 1

B y l a w s a n d regulations T h e installation o f an unvented hotwater cylinder needs to c o m p l y w i t h both the Water Regulations a n d the B u i l d i n g Regulations. It has t o include all the necessary safety devices a n d be installed by a competent fitter, such as those registered w i t h the Institute of P l u m b i n g , the C o n s t r u c t i o n Industry T r a i n i n g B o a r d , o r the A s s o c i a t i o n of Installers o f Unvented H o t Water Systems (Scotland a n d N o r t h e r n Ireland). Have the i n s t a l l a t i o n serviced regularly by a s i m i l a r l y qualified firter, to make sure a l l the equipment remains in g o o d w o r k i n g order. Y o u must notify the water c o m p a n y and your local B u i l d i n g C o n t r o l Office of your i n t e n t i o n to install an unvented hot-water cylinder.

5 Expansion vessel 6 Mains feed 7 Space-heating flow 8 Space-heating return 9 Boiler flow 10 Boiler return

-DJ I -h i
I "

l<JXy
ft 10

c1 -J

Unvented hot-water cylinder 1 Incoming mains watot 2 Stopcock 3 Line strainer 4 Cold water to laps 5 Non-return checkl valve 6 Pressure Iimiter 7 Pressure vessel B Expension-relief valve 9 Cold-water inlet 10 Immersion heater 11 Hot-water outlet 12 Temperature-relief valve 13 Tun dish 14 Discharge pipe

SEE ALSO: Storage tanks 49, Wet central heating 53

Solar heatin
S a v i n g e n e r g y is a p r i o r i t y for a l l o f us i f w e are t o p r e v e n t f u r t h e r d a m a g e t o o u r e n v i r o n m e n t f r o m the effects o f c a r b o n d i o x i d e . P o i n t - o f - u s e w a t e r heaters h e l p i n a s m a l l way, as t h e y c o n s u m e e n e r g y f o r s h o r t p e r i o d s o n l y . H o w e v e r , the systems t h a t have b e e n d e v e l o p e d t o h a r n e s s s o l a r e n e r g y offer a m o r e effective a l t e r n a t i v e for h e a t i n g d o m e s t i c water. In c o n t r a s t t o the d e m a n d f o r s p a c e h e a t i n g , w h i c h v a r i e s a c c o r d i n g t o the s e a s o n , h o t w a t e r is r e q u i r e d c o n s t a n t l y t h r o u g h o u t t h e year a n d is therefore w e l l s u i t e d to h e a t i n g w i t h s o l a r energy.

:P0INT-0F-USE WATER HEATERS


Small instantaneous water hearers are used to provide hot water at the point where it is required, usually beside a sink o r basin. A 3 k W model, suitable for m o u n t i n g above a sink, is wited to a fused connection unit c o n t a i n i n g a 13atnp fuse. T h e unit must be out of reach o f water splashes f r o m the sink, so if necessary fit a flex outlet near the heater and run a cable from there to the connection unit. A 7 k W heater needs a 45amp radial circuit, s i m i l a r to the one for a shower, though in a kitchen you can use a wallmounted double-pole switch to connect it, instead of a ceiling-mounted switch. Electric point-of-use water heaters are often designed t o fit inside a cupboard o r vanity u n i t beneath a sink or basin. Y o u can install one of these heaters yourself, provided rhar it has a capacity o f less than 9 litres (16 pints). Follow the manufacturer's instrucrions precisely, and fit a pressure-limiting valve and a filter (both of these are supplied as a kit). A l s o , make sure that the safety vent pipe discharges hot water to a place outside where it won't endanger anyone. Electric water heaters are supplied directly from the mains by means o f a l i m m (hin) pipe. Connecting s 3kW water heater 1 Flex outlet 2 Supply pipe 5mm (!iin

Using solar energy to heat water


T h e idea o f u s i n g die sun t o p r o v i d e free, n o n - p o l l u t i n g energy for heating water has always appealed to energyconservationists but has yet t o become widely accepted. H o w e v e r , w i t h the development o f the new generation o f evacuated-heat-pipe s o l a r c o l l e c t o r s , ir is n o w possible to heat d o m e s t i c h o t water effectively and economically. F r o m the late s p r i n g t h r o u g h to early a u t u m n , this type o f system can p r o d u c e sufficient hot w a t e r for the average house - even when the sky is overcast. D u r i n g the w i n t e r , the s o l a r collectors provide useful ' p r e h e a t ' that reduces the time it-takes a boiler to heat water, thereby saving energy T h e r e are a n u m b e r o f c o m p a n i e s that s u p p l y solar collectors for heating water, plus all the controls and pipew o r k required to complete the job. If you carry out the p l u m b i n g yourself, the payback o n the investment w i l l be that m u c h greater. A basic system M o s t systems for s u p p l y i n g d o m e s t i c hot water w i l l require solar collectors that cover about 4sq m (4sq yd) o f roof
SOLAR

space. In order t o trap m a x i m u m heat from the s u n , the collectors s h o u l d be m o u n t e d o n a pitched roof and face in a southerly d i r e c t i o n . Solar collectors can be fitted, w i t h m i n i m a l structural alterations, t o almost any b u i l d i n g ; and p l a n n i n g approval is rarely required. T h e most c o m m o n way o f u t i l i z i n g solar energy to boost an existing waterheating system is to feed the hot watet from the collectors t o a second heat exchanger fitted inside your hot-water cylinder. T h i s usually means replacing the c y l i n d e r w i t h a d u a l - c o i l m o d e l . A n alternative technique is to p l u m b in a second well-insulated cylinder, which w i l l 'preheat' the water before it is passed o n t o the m a i n storage cylinder. T h i s may involve raising the cold-water storage t a n k in order to feed the new preheat cylinder. Controls A p u m p is needed to circulate the water from the collectors to the cylinder c o i l and back t o the collectors. A programmable thermostat, which operates the p u m p , senses when the panels are hotter than ihc water in the cylinder. COLO-WATER STORAGE TANK PREHEAT CYLINDER*

CGtLECTOF

SAFETY VALVE

SOLAR COLLECTOR SAFETY VALVE

EXPANSION VESSEL

HEADER TANK

HOT-WATER CYLINDER Dual-coil installation Two -cylinderinstallation

Cupboard-mounted water healer 1 Isolating valve 2 Cold supply to tap 3 Cold leed to healer 4 Hot supply Irom heater

ft
SEE ALSO: Wiring Regulations B, 39, 69, 81, Connecting pipes 19-27, Hot-water cylinders 50-1

Wet central heating


Open-vented systems
T h e most p o p u l a r form o f wet central heating is the two-pipe open-vented system - in which water is heated by a boiler and p u m p e d through s m a l l bore pipes t o radiators o r convcctor heaters, where the heat from the water is released into the rooms. T h e water then circulates back to the boiler for reheating, using n a t u r a l gas, bottled gas (propane), o i l , electricity, o r a s o l i d fuel such as anthracite. T h e control of such systems can be extremely flexible. Thermostats and valves allow the output o f the i n d i v i d u a l heat emitters to be adjusted automatically, and parts o f the system can be shut down when rooms are not used. T h i s type of system can be used t o heat tire domestic hot-water supply, as well as the house itself. Some older systems employ gravity c i r c u l a t i o n to heat the hot-water storage c y l i n d e r hut incorporate a m e c h a n i c a l p u m p to force the water a r o u n d the radiators. In most m o d e r n systems, a s i m i l a r p u m p propels the water to the cylinder and radiators via diverter valves. pen-vented system The water heated by the boiler 1 1 is driven 1 by a pump (2) through a two-pipe system to the radiators 131 or special con vector heaters, which give off heat as the hot water flows through them, gradually warming the rooms lo the requited temperature; the water then returns to the boiler to be reheated. A cistern known as a teed-and-expansion tank (4), situated in the loft, keeps the system lopped up and takes the excess of water created by the system over heating. The hol-watet cylindet(51 is heated by gravity circulation. In the diagram, red indicates the flow of walet from the pump and blue Shows the return flow.

Sealed systems
A sealed system is an alternative to the traditional open-vented method. Water is fed into the system via a filling loop, which is temporarily connected t o the mains. The loop incorporates a n o n return valve to prevent contamination of mains d r i n k i n g water. In place o f a feed-and-expansion tank (sec top right,, a pressure vessel containing a flexible diaphragm accommodates the expansion of the water as the temperature rises. Should the system become overpressurized, a safety valve discharges some of the water. A sealed central-heatmg system offers certain advantages over an openvented system. There is less l i k e l i h o o d of corrosion a n d , since the system runs at a relatively high temperature, the radiators can be smaller. A l s o , because the system is supplied w i t h water under mains pressure, there is no necessity for radiators to be below a feed-andexpansion tank installed in the l o f t - s o radiators can be placed anywhere in the house, i n c l u d i n g in the loft itself. O n the negative side, sealed systems must be completely watertight - since there is no automatic top up - and they have to be made w i t h costly highquality components to prevent pressure loss. A boiler w i t h a high-temperature cutout is required, in case the ordinary thermostat fails. A l s o , radiators get very hot.

Sealed he a tiny system 1 Cold mains supply 2 Filling loop with non-return valve 3 Boiler 4 Safety velve 5 Expansion vesse (sometimes within boiler 6 Pressure gauge J Pump 8 Air-retease poini 9 Jnvented hot-waiei cylinder 10 Hot-water expansion vessel 11 Heating flow to radiators 12 Heating return lo boiler 13 Radiators 14 Draincock

One -pipe systems In an outdated onepipe system, heated water is pumped around the perimeter ol the house through a single large-bore pipe thatfotms a loop. Flow and return pipes diven hot water to each radiator by moans of gravily circulation. Larget radiators may be required at the end of the loop in order to compensate for heal loss. A one-pipe system incorporates a feed-and-expansion tank and a hat-water circuit similar to those used for conventional two-pipe systems

SEE ALSO: Hot-water cyclinders 50-1, Off-peak electricity 73


5 3

ANTRAL HEATir OILERS

Central-heating boilers
Technological improvements

VENTILATING A BOILER
A boiler that takes its combustion air from w i t h i n the house and expels fumes through a conventional open flue (see far left) must have access to a permanent ventilator fitted in an outside wall. T h e ventilator has to be of the correct size as recommended by the boiler manufacturer - and must not contain a fly-screen mesh, which could become blocked. Refer t o B u i l d i n g Regulations F l - 1.8 for specific guidance. A boiler that is starved o f air w i l l ereare carbon m o n o x i d e - a lethal invisible gas that has no smell. A c u p b o a r d that houses a balancedflue room-sealed boiler must be fitted w i t h ventilators at the top and bottom, to prevent the boiler overheating. COWL

Gas-fired boilers
M a n y gas-fired boilers have pilot lights that burn constantly, in order t o ignite O K burners whenever heat is required. T h e burners may be operated m a n u a l l y o r by a timer set t o switch the beating o u a n d off at selected times. It is also possible to link the boiler t o a r o o m thermostat, so that the heating is switched o n and off to keep temperatures at the required level throughout the house. A n o t h e r thermostat, w i t h i n the boiler itself, prevents the water f r o m overheating. A n increasing number o f boilers have electronic i g n i t i o n . W i t h this system, the pilot is not ignited until the r o o m thermostat demands heat - then, once the boiler reaches the required temperature, valves to the burner and pilot light close, shutting off the fuel supply until heat is next called for.

have m a d e i t p o s s i b l e t o p r o d u c e central-heating boilers m u c h smaller than their predecessors, t h o u g h n o less efficient. T o d a y , gas a n d o i l are s t i l l the m o s t p o p u l a r fuels b e c a u s e , despite advances i n s o l i d - f u e l t e c h n o logy, the d i r t a n d i n c o n v e n i e n c e a s s o c i a t e d w i t h s o l i d fuels c a n ' t be i g n o r e d o r o v e r c o m e . W o o d Gas installers Gas boilers must be in stalled by cam fie tern litters registered with CORGI {Council for Registered Gas Installers). Check, also, ihat your installer has the relevant publicliability insurance for working with gas.

b u r n i n g b o i l e r s were p o p u l a r for a w h i l e - b u t , r e a l i s t i c a l l y , w o o d is best s u i t e d t o r o o m h e a t i n g stoves, p e r h a p s w i t h a small back boiler to provide hot water, rather t h a n as a fuel for c e n t r a l h e a t i n g .

Boiler flues All boilers need some means of expelling the combustion gases that result from burning fuel Frequently this is effected by connecting I he boiler to a conuenlionalflueor chimney that takes the gases directly to the outside, Alter natively, some boilers, known as room sealed balanced-flue boilers, are mounted on an external wall and the Hue gases are passed to the outside through a short horizontal duct. Balanced-Hue ducts are divided into two passages-one for the ou(going floe gases, and the other for the incoming air needed for efficient combustion. All boilers can be connected to a conventional flue, but gas and oil-fired boilers are also made for balanced-flue systems. If the boiler is Ian-assisted, it can be mounted at a distance o!upto3m|9ft9in) from the balanced-flue outlet

Heating requirements
T h e capacity- (heat output) o f the boiler needed to satisfy your requirements c a n be calculated by adding up the manufacturer's specified heat output o f all the radiators, plus a 3 k W allowance for a hot-water cylinder. Ten percent is added to allow for exceptionally c o l d weather. T h e overall calculation is affected by the heat lost through the walls and ceiling, and also by the number o f air changes caused by ventilation. Some p l u m b e r s ' merchants w i l l make rhe relevant calculations for you, i f you provide them w i t h the dimensions o f each r o o m . Alternatively, you can calculate your requirements yourself, using a software package produced for use with a home computer. There are also purpose-made calculators k n o w n as M e a r s wheels, which can be hired, c o m plete w i t h instructions, from a supplier of central-heating equipment. Ideal r o o m temperarures A central-heating designer and installer n o r m a l l y aims at providing a system that w i l l heat rooms to the tern pe rat tires shown below, assuming an o u t d o o r temperature o f 1C (30F).

lil-fired boilers
Pressure-jet oil-fired boilers are fitted w i t h controls s i m i l a r t o the ones for g.i. boilers described above, t M boilercan be floor-standing o r w a l l - m o u n t e d . To run oil-fired central heating, you need a large oil-storage tank outside, with easy access for delivery tankers.

Solid-fuel boilers
Solid-fuel boilers are invariably floors t a n d i n g and require a conventional flue. Back boilers are small enough to be built i n t o a fireplace. Instant c o n t r o l o f heat isn't possible w i t h a solid-fuel boiler - the rate at which the fuel is burnt is usually c o n trolled by a thermostatic d a m p e r and sometimes by a fan. T h e system must have some means for the heat to escape in the event o f the circulation p u m p failing (otherwise, the water c o u l d b o i l in the appliance and damage it). T h i s is usually arranged by means of a natural-convection circuit (pipe) that leads from the boiler and the heat exchanger in the domestic hotwater cylinder to a radiator situated in the b a t h r o o m , where the excess hear can be used to dry wet towels. If a solid-fuel boiler is to continue b u r n i n g , it has to be kept stoked - so some models are made w i t h a hopper feed that tops them up automatically. Y o u need a suitable place to store fuel for the b o i l e r ; and the residual ash has to be removed regularly.

ROOM TEMPERATURE Living room Dining room Kitchen Hall/landing Bedroom Bathroom 21 C{70F)
D

2T C(70F)
,

16C (60"F) 18C (65F) 16"C (60F) 23C (72-F)

Solid-fuel back boiler

SEE ALSO: Condensing boilers 55, Room heaters 56, 71, Thermostats 57,81

Radiators
Condensing boilers
Condensing boilers extract more hear from rile fuel than other types o f boiler. This is achieved either by passing the water through a highly efficient heat exchanger o r by having a secondary heat exchanger that uses heat from the flue to 'preheat' c o o l water returning from the radiators. W i t h a c o n v e n t i o n a l b o i l e r , the moisture w i t h i n the exhaust gases passes t h r o u g h the flue as s t e a m . Since a c o n d e n s i n g b o i l e r extracts more heat f r o m the gases, m u c h o f the moisture they c o n t a i n condenses w i t h i n the boiler. T h e water thus produced is collected at the b o t t o m of the c o m b u s t i o n c h a m b e r a n d drained t h r o u g h a s m a l l pipe. A n o t h e r by-product o n a cold d a m p day is a light cloud o f water vapour at the flue outlet, where the relatively c o o l exhaust gases meet the outside air. T h i s could be a nuisance if the flue is sited close to a neighbour's window. There are regulations governing d i e siting o f balanced flues - check the requirements with your B u i l d i n g C o n t r o l Officer. HEATING RETURN HEATING PLOW T h e h o t w a t e r f r o m a c e n t r a l - h e a t i n g b o i l e r is p u m p e d a l o n g s m a l l b o r e p i p e s c o n n e c t e d t o r a d i a t o r s (or c o n v e c t o r s ) , m o u n t e d at strategic p o i n t s to heat i n d i v i d u a l r o o m s a n d h a l l w a y s . T h e s t a n d a r d r a d i a t o r is a d o u b l e - s k i n n e d p r e s s c d - m e t a l p a n e l , w h i c h is heated by the h o t w a t e r that flows t h r o u g h it. D e s p i t e its n a m e , a r a d i a t o r e m i t s o n l y a f r a c t i o n o f its o u t p u t as r a d i a n t heat - the rest b e i n g delivered b y n a t u r a l c o n v e c t i o n as t h e s u r r o u n d i n g a i r c o m e s i n t o c o n t a c t w i t h the h o t surfaces o f the r a d i a t o r . A s the w a r m e d a i r rises t o w a r d s the c e i l i n g , c o o l e r a i r flows i n a r o u n d the r a d i a t o r , a n d t h i s a i r i n t u r n is w a r m e d a n d m o v e s u p w a r d s . A s a r e s u l t , a v e r y gentle c i r c u l a t i o n o f a i r t a k e s p l a c e i n the r o o m , a n d the t e m p e r a t u r e g r a d u a l l y rises to the o p t i m u m set o n the r o o m thermostat.

CENTRAL H BOILERS/RAD I ATO 1RS

Panel radiators
R a d i a t o r s are available i n a w i d e range of sizes. T h e larger they are, the greater their heat o u t p u t . O u t p u t for a given size c a n be increased further by using 'double r a d i a t o r s ' , w h i c h are made by j o i n i n g t w o panels o n e b e h i n d the other. M o s t types of r a d i a t o r have fins attached to their rear faces to induce convected heat. T h e bandwheel valve at one end o f the radiator turns the flow o f water o n or off; the lockshield valve at the other end is set to balance the system, then left alone. A n ordinary handwheel valvecan be fitted at cither end o f a radiator, regardless of the direction o f flow. H o w ever, thermostatic valves, which regulate the temperature of i n d i v i d u a l radiators, are marked w i t h arrows to indicate rbc direction o f flow a n d must be fitted accordingly. A bleed valve, fitted at one of the t o p corners, is used to release a i r that has g r a d u a l l y built up inside the radiator. A i r trapped inside a radiator prevents the panel from heating properly

Oecorative radiators As a rule, flat-panel radiators are designed to be as innocuous as passible. I you prefer F something more conspicuous, choose from One of the more colourful ranges Some radiators arc chromed.

COMBUSTION CHAMBER PRIMARY HEAT EXCHANGER

Condensing boiler

Combination bailers
C o m b i n a t i o n boilers provide both hot water to a sealed heating system and a separate supply of instant hot water directly to taps and showers. T h e advantages are ease of installation (thereare no tanks o r pipes in the loft), spacesaving (there's n o hot-water storage cylinder) and economy (you heat only the water you use). T h e m a i n drawback is a fairly slow flow rate - so it takes longer to fill a b a t h , and it's not usually possible to use t w o hot taps at the same time. C o m b i n a t i o n boilers are therefore best suited to s m a l l households o r flats. However, to overcome these problems, the newer generation o f c o m b i n a t i o n boilers incorporate a s m a l l built-in hot-water storage tank.

Panel radiator 1 A manual handwheel valve turns the flow on or off. 2 A lockshield valve is set to balance the system. 3 A bleed valve disperses airlocks.

a in"
IINIIHHH

BMW

Heat emission As it's heated bv the radiator, convected air Hows upwards and is replaced by cooler air near the base of the radiator. In addition, heat radiates from the surface of the panel

V SEE ALSO: Thermostatic values 57, Bleeding radiators 61

Radiators and convectors


Convectors
C o n v e c t o r heaters can be used as p a n of a wet central-heating system. Some models are designed for i n c o n s p i c u o u s fixing at s k i r t i n g level. Convectors emit none o f their heat in the form o f direct r a d i a t i o n . T h e hot water f r o m the boiler passes t h r o u g h a finned pipe inside the heater, and the fins absorb rhe hear and transfer it to the air a r o u n d them. T h e w a r m e d air passes t h r o u g h a d a m p e r - c o n t r o l l e d vent at the top o f the heater, and at the same time c o o l air is d r a w n in rhrough the open b o t t o m t o be w a r m e d in t u r n . W i t h a fan-assisted convector heater, the airflow is accelerated over the fins in order t o speed up r o o m heating.

Positioning radiators and convectors


A t one time central-beating radiators and convector units were nearly always placed under w i n d o w s , because the area a r o u n d a w i n d o w tends t o be the coldest p a r t o f a r o o m . However, i f you've fitted d o u b l e glazing to reduce heat loss and draughts, then it w o u l d be m o r e efficient t o place your heaters elsewhere especially if your w i n d o w s are h u n g w i t h l o n g c u r t a i n s . F i n n e d radiators which accelerate convection considerably - afford a greater degree of flexibility in the siting of heaters a n d , size p e r m i t t i n g , still keep the whole r o o m at a comfortable tern pe rat u re. T h e shape o f a r o o m c a n also affect the siting o f heaters and perhaps their number. F o r e x a m p l e , it is difficult to heat a large I.-shaped r o o m w i t h just a single radiator at one end. In situations like this it's probably best t o consult a heating installer beforehand, to help you decide u p o n rhe o p t i m u m number of heaters and their siting. Wherever possible, avoid hanging curtains o r s t a n d i n g furniture in front of a r a d i a t o r o r convector beater. Both curtains and furniture absorb radiated heat - and c u r t a i n s also tend t o trap convected heal behind them. T h e w a r m air rising f r o m a radiator w i l l eventually d i s c o l o u r the paint or wallcovering above it F i t t i n g a narrow shelf abour 5 0 m m (2iu) above a radiator avoids s t a i n i n g , w i t h o u t inhibiting convection. Alternatively, enclose the r a d i a t o r in a narrow cabinet - heat output is barely reduced, provided air is able to pass through the enclosure freely, especially at rhe top and bottom (see below).

Radiator cabinets
Whereas a standard panel r a d i a t o r may suit a m o d e r n interior, it can l o o k out of place in a period-style r o o m . O n e s o l u t i o n is t o enclose the r a d i a t o r in a cabinet that's more in keeping w i t h the character of the interior. T h e cabinet must be ventilated to a l l o w air i n t o the b o t t o m and for the convected w a r m air to exit f r o m the top. A perforated panel is usually fitted across the front to dissipate the heat and add to the unit's appearance. Cabinets are available in k i t form to fit standard-size radiators. Alternatively, you can cut custom-made panels from M D F board. M a k i n g y o u r o w n cabinet A radiator cabinet can be designed to stand o n the floor o r t o be h u n g o n the wall at s k i r t i n g height. A floor-standing version is described here. C u t the shelf member (1) and t w o end panels (2) from 18mm (%in) M D F . M a k e these components large enough to enclose the radiator and both valves. C u t a notch near the base of each end panel to fit the profile o f the skirtings. G l u e the panels to the shelf w i t h dowels joints, and dowel a 50 x 25mm (2 x fin) tie tail (3) between the sides at s k i r t i n g level. C u t a new skirting m o u l d i n g (4) to fit a l o n g the base of the cabinet, but first cut away the bottom edge of the m o u l d i n g o n the front to form a large vent. C o m p l e t e the box by a p p l y i n g a decorative m o u l d i n g (5) iiround the edge o f the shelf. C u t a f r o m panel (6) from either perforated h a r d b o a r d , M D F , a l u m i n i u m sheet o r b a m b o o lattice, and mount it in a rebated M D F frame (7). M a k e the frame fit the box, leaving a vent along the t o p edge. H o l d the frame in place with magnetic catches. Paint rhe cabinet a n d , when it is dry, attach it to the w a l l w i t h metal corner brackets o r m i r r o r plates. Floor.standing radiator cabinet 1 Shelf Z End panel 3 Tie rail (Skirting S Moulding G Perforated panel 7 Frame

Rising warm air draws in cool air below

Skirting radiators
A s k i r t i n g r a d i a t o r is a space-saving alternative t o a c o n v e n t i o n a l panel r a d i a t o r a n d is designed for i n s t a l l a t i o n i n place o f a w o o d e n s k i r t i n g b o a r d . T h e t w i n c o p p e r - l i n e d waterways a n d the outer c a s i n g are f o r m e d f r o m a single a l u m i n i u m e x t r u s i o n . M a d e i n 6 m (19ft Sin) lengths and available i n v a r i o u s finishes, s k i r t i n g r a d i a t o r s arc cut to length then joined at the corners o f the r o o m , u s i n g c o n ventional soldered pipe joints. T h e p i p e w o r k a n d valves are hidden from view, but are readily accessible. A n e l e c t r i c a l l y heated version is a l s o available-,

I s
( -"Ira

*W SEE ALSO: Radiators 55

Controls for central heating


The various automatic control systems a n d d e v i c e s a v a i l a b l e for w e t c e n t r a l h e a t i n g c a n , i f used p r o p e r l y , p r o v i d e s a v i n g s in r u n n i n g c o s t s b y r e d u c i n g wastage o f heat t o a m i n i m u m .
Three basic devices Automatic controllers can be divided into three basic types: temperature controllers (thermostats), automatic on-off switches (programmers and timers), and heating-circuit controllers (zone valves). These devices can be used, individually or in c o m b i n a t i o n , to provide a very high level of c o n t r o l . It must be added that they are really effective w i t h gas o r oil-fired boilers only, since these c a n be switched o n and off at w i l l . W h e n they're linked t o solidfuel boilers, which take time to react to controls, automatic control systems are much less effective. A l l boilers incorporare thermostats t o prevent overheating. A n oil-fired o r gas boiler w i l l have one that c a n be set to vary heat output by s w i t c h i n g the unit o n and off; and some models are also fitted w i t h m o d u l a t i n g burners, which adjust flame height t o suit heating requirements. O n a solid-fuel boiler, the thermostat opens and closes a d a m p e r that admits more o r less air to the firebed to increase o r reduce the rate o f b u r n i n g , as required. A r o o m thermostat - ' r o o m s t a t ' for short - is often the only form o f centralheating control fitted. It is placed in a r o o m where the temperature usually remains fairly stable, and w o r k s on the assumption that any rise o r d r o p in the temperature w i l l be matched by similar variations throughout the house. [ioouistars control the temperature by means of simple on-off s w i t c h i n g of the boiler - o r the p u m p , if the boiler has t o run constantly in order to provide hot water. T h e main draw back of a roomstat is that it makes n o allowance for local temperature changes in other rooms - caused, for example, by the sun s h i n i n g through a w i n d o w o r a separate heater being switched o n . M o r e sophisticated temperature c o n t r o l is provided by a t h e r m o s t a t i c valve, w h i c h c a n be fitted t o a r a d i a t o r instead o f the s t a n d a r d manually operated valve. A temperature sensor opens and closes the valve, v a r y i n g the heat o u t p u t t o m a i n t a i n the desired temperature i n the i n d i v i d u a l r o o m . T h e r m o s t a t i c r a d i a t o r valves need not be fitted i n every r o o m . Y o u can use one t o reduce the heat in a k i t c h e n o r s m a l l b a t h r o o m , for e x a m p l e , while a roomstat regulates the temperature t h r o u g h o u t the rest o f the house. T h e most sophisticated thermostatic controller is a boiler-energy manager or 'optimizer'. T h i s device collects data from sensors inside and outside the building in order to deduce the o p t i m u m r u n n i n g period for the central-heating system, so the boiler is not wastcfully switched on a m i off in rapid cycles.

Thermostats

Bo 1er-energy manager

Room thermostat

ZONE-CONTROL VALVES

There's very little point in heating rooms that aren't being used. I n m o s t * 1 IITierS 3 0 0 p r O g r a i T l l T i e i S households, for example, the bedrooms are unoccupied for the greater part o f You c a n cut fuel bills substantially by the day and to heat them continuously ensuring that the heating is not o n while would be wasteful. you arc out o r asleep. A timer can be set so that the system is switched on to w a r m the house before you get up and One way o f avoiding such waste is t o goes off just before you leave for w o r k , divide your central-heating system i n t o then comes on again shortly before you circuits o r '/ones' (the usual ones being return home and goes off at bedtime. upstairs and downstairs) and t o heat T h e simpler timers provide t w o ' o n ' and the whole house only when necessary. However, i f you divide your house into zones, make sure the tmheated areas are adequately ventilated, in order t o prevent condensation. C o n t r o l is provided by motorized valves linked to a timer o r programmer that directs the heated water through selected pipes at predetermined times of day. Alternatively, zone valves linked to individual thermostats can be used to provide separate temperature control for each zone.

two 'off' settings, which are n o r m a l l y repeated every day. A manual override enables you t o alter the times for weekends and other changes in routine. M o r e sophisticated devices, k n o w n as p r o g r a m m e r s , offer a larger number of on-off programs - even a different one for each day of the week - as well as c o n t r o l o f domestic hot water.

Programmer or timer

Thermostatic radiator valve

Keating controls There area number ot ways to control heating 1 A wiring centre connects the controls in the system. Z A programmer/timer is used in conjunction with a none valve to switch the boiler on or oil at ore-set limes, and run the heaUng and hotwater systems. 3 Optional boiler-energy manager controls the efficiency of the heating system. 4 Room thetmostats are used to conltol the pump or zone valves to regulate the overall temperature. 5 A non-electrical thermostatic radiator valve controls the temperature ol an individual heater.

A motorised ione-control valve

Diagnosing heating problems


W h e n h e a t i n g s y s t e m s fail t o w o r k p r o p e r l y , they c a n e x h i b i t a l l sorts o f s y m p t o m s , s o m e o f w h i c h c a n be d i f f i c u l t t o d i a g n o s e w i t h o u t s p e c i a l i z e d k n o w l e d g e a n d e x p e r i e n c e . H o w e v e r , it pays t o check o u t the m o r e c o m m o n s f a u l t s , s u m m a r i z e d b e l o w , b e f o r e c a l l i n g o u t a h e a t i n g engineer.

Hissing or banging sounds from boiler or heating pipes


T h i s is caused by overheating due to: Blocked chimney (if you have a solid-fuel boiler). Sweep chimney to clear heavy soot. B u i l d - u p o f scale due to hard water. Shut down boiler and pump. Treat system with a descaler, then drain, flush and refill system. Faulty boiler thermostat. Shu! down boiler. Leave pump working to circulate water, to cool system quickly. When it's cool, operate boiler thermostat control. If you don't hear a clicking sound, call in an engineer. Lack of water in system. Shut down boiler. Check feed-andexpansion tank in loft. If empty, the value may be stuck. Move float-valve arm up and down to restore flow and fill system, if this has no effect, check lo see if mains water has been turned off by accident or (in winter) if supply pipe is frozen. P u m p not w o r k i n g (with a solid-fuel boiler). Shut down boiler, then check that pump is switched on. If pump is not running, turn off power and check wired connections to it. if pump seems to be running but outlet pipe is cool, check for airlock by opening pump bleed screw. If pump is still not working, shut it down, drain system, remove pump and check for blockage. Clean pump or, if need be, replace it.

| All radiators remain cool, though i boiler is operating normally


! P u m p not w o r k i n g . Check pump by listening or feeling for motor vibration. If pump is running, check for airlock by opening bleed valve. If this hits no effect, the pump \ outlet may he blocked. Switch off \ boiler and pump, remove pump and clean or replace as necessary. If pump is not running, switch off and try to free spindle. Look for a large i screw in the middle removing or I I turning it will reveal the slotted end of the spindle. Turn this until the spindle feels free, then switch pump on again.

Boiler not working


T h e r m o s t a t set t o o low. Check that roomstat and boiler thermostats are set correctly. T i m e r o r p r o g r a m m e r not w o r k i n g . Check that timer or programmer is switched on and set correctly. Have it replaced if fault persists. G a s boiler's pilot light goes out. Relight pilot following instructions supplied with the boiler (these are usually printed on the back of the front panel). If pilot fails to ignite, have it replaced.

P u m p thermostat or timer is set incorrectly o r is faulty. \ j I Adjust thermostat or timer setting. If that has no effect, switch off power and check wiring connections. If they are in good order, call in an engineer.

Continuous drip from overflow pipe of feed-and-expansion tank in loft


Faulty float valve o r l e a k i n g float, causing valve t o stay open. 5/ji off mains water supply to feed-and-expansion tank and bale it out to below level of float valve. Remove valve and fit new washer. Alternatively, unscrew leaking float from arm and fit new one. L e a k i n g heat-exchanger coil in hot-water cylinder. In this case, dripping from the overflow will occur only if the feed-andexpansion tank is positioned below the cold-water storage tank. Turn off boiler and mains water. Let system cool, then take dip-slick measurement in both tanks. Don't use water overnight - then check again in morning. If the water level has risen in the feed-and-expansion tank and dropped in the cold-water storage tank, have the coil tested.

\ Single radiator doesn't warm up


I H a u d w h e e l valve is closed. Open the valve. | T h e r m o s t a t i c radiator valve I ts set too low o r is faulty. ; Adjust valve setting. If this has no effect, drain the system and replace the valve. i L o c k s h i e l d valve not set properly. ; Remove lockshield cover and adjust valve setting until radiator seems as i warm as those in other rooms. Have I lockshield valve properly balanced when the system is next serviced. I R a d i a t o r valves blocked by corrosion. ! Close both radiator valves, remove radiator and flush out.

Radiators in one part ot the house do not warm up


T i m e r o r thermostat that controls relevant /one valve is not set properly or is faulty. Check timer or thermostat setting and reset if need be. If this has no effect, switch off power supply and check wired connections, if that makes no difference, call in an engineer. Z o n e valve itself is faulty. Drain system and replace or repair the valve. P u m p not w o r k i n g . See above.

Water leaking from system \ Area at top of radiator stays cool, j though bottom is warm
! A i r l o c k at top o f radiator is preventing water circulating fully. Bleed radiator to release trapped air. Loose pipe unions at joints, p u m p connections, b o i l e r connections, etc. Turn off boiler (or close down solidfuel appliance, raking out coals) and switch off pump, then tighten leaking joints. If this has no effect, drain the system and remake joints completely. Split o r punctured pipe. Wrap rags around the damaged pipe temporarily, then switch off boiler and pump and make a temporary repair with hose or commercial leak sealant. Drain the system and fit new pipe.

\ Cool patch in centre of radiator, I though top and ends are warm
i Deposits of rust at bottom o f radiator i are restricting circulation of water. ! Close both radiator valves, remove i radiator and flush out.

SEE ALSO: Draining the system 8, Repairing leaks 9, Float values 13, Pipework 19-27, Plumbing joints 21-5, Bleed ualve 61, Removing/replacing radiators 61, 63

raining and refilling


A l t h o u g h it's i n a d v i s a b l e t o d o so u n n e c e s s a r i l y , there m a y be t i m e s when y o u have t o d r a i n y o u r w e t c e n t r a l - h e a t i n g s y s t e m c o m p l e t e l y and refill it. T h i s c o u l d be for r o u t i n e m a i n t e n a n c e , w h e n d e a l i n g with a f a u l t , o r because y o u have d e c i d e d t o e x t e n d t h e system o r upgrade t h e b o i l e r . T h e j o b c a n be d o n e f a i r l y e a s i l y i f y o u f o l l o w the p r o c e d u r e s o u t l i n e d here.

REFILLING THE SYSTEM


J Before refilling the system, check that y o u have closed all the d r a i n c o c k s and r a d i a t o r bleed valves. Restore the water supply to the feeda n d - e x p a n s i o n tank in the loft. A s the system fills up, air w i l l be trapped i n the tops of the radiators - so when the water stops r u n n i n g , bleed all the r a d i a t o r s , starting at the b o t t o m o f the house. Y o u may also have t o bleed rhe c i r c u l a t i n g pump. 1'inally, check all the d r a i n c o c k s and bleed valves for leaks, and tighten rliem if necessary.

CENTR, HEATING AL ORAINI DRAINING/FILLING

Draining the system


Before d r a i n i n g your central-hearing system, c o o l the water by shutting off the boiler and leaving the c i r c u l a t i o n pump running. T h e water in the system will cool quite quickly: S w i t c h o f f the p u m p a m i t u r n off the mains water s u p p l y t o the feedand-expansion t a n k in the loft either by closing the stopcock i n the feed pipe or by l a y i n g a batten across the tank and t y i n g the float a r m t o it. The main draincock for the system will n o r m a l l y be in the return pipe near the boiler. Push one end of a garden hose o n t o its outlet and lead the other end of the hose to a gully o r soakaway in the garden, then open the d r a i n c o c k . If you have no key for its square shank, use an adjustable spanner. M o s t o f the water w i l l d r a i n from the system, but some w ill be held i n the radiators, l b release the trapped water, start at the t o p o f the house and carefully o p e n the radiator bleed valves. A i r w i l l flow into the tops o f the r a d i ators, b r e a k i n g the v a c u u m , and the water w i l l d r a i n out. Lasr o f a l l , d r a i n inverted pipe loops (see below).

Draincuck key A special tool, similar in principle to a radiator-valve key, is available for operating draincocks.

Tightening a leaking draincuck

Cleaning the system


Draining procedure Turn oK the mains supply to the tank at the feed-pipe stopcock (1). If there's no stopcock, tielhe float-valve arm to a batten laid across the lank |2I. With a hose pushed onto the main draincock 131 and its other end at a gully or soakaway outside, open the draincock and lei the system em ply Release any water trapped in the tad i a tots (4) by opening their bleed valves (5), starting at the top of the house. Be sure lo close all draincocks before you refill the system. After i n s t a l l i n g o r m o d i f y i n g a centralheating system, flush the pipework w i t h water t o get rid of swarf and flux, which can induce c o r r o s i o n o r damage valves or the pump. To protect the p u m p d u r i n g cleaning, it's best t o remove it, b r i d g i n g the gap w i t h a short length o f pipe. But it is much easier t o rurn the p u m p impeller w i t h a screwdriver before r u n n i n g the system after flushing, in order to make sure it's clear. If you can feel resistance, drain the system and remove the motor, then clean and refit the impeller. Descaling If your system is o l d or badly corroded, a harsh cleaner o r descaler may expose m i n o r leaks sealed by corrosion so use a m i l d cleanser, introduced into the system via the feed-and-expansion tank or inject it into a radiator via the bleed valve. Manufacturers' instructions vary, but in principle run the cleanser through the system for a week, w i t h the boiler ser ro a fairly high temperature. Afterwards, turn off and d r a m the system, then refill and d r a m it several rimes - if possible, using a hose t o run ma ins-pressure water through the system while d r a i n i n g it. Some cleansers must be neutralized before you can add a corrosion inhibitor. If your boiler is m a k i n g l o u d banging noises, treat it and the immediate pipew o r k w i t h a fairly powerful descaler, r u n n i n g the hot-water program only.

Power-llusbing the system After upgrading an older system, perhaps with a new boiler or radiators, you could flush the system yourself I see left), but it's advisable to have it cleansed thoroughly by a heating engineer, using a power-flushing unit When it is connected, the unit pumps chemicallytreated water through the system to flush out impurities.

Inverted pipe loops


Often when fitting a central-heating system in a house that has a solid ground floor, installers r u n the heating pipes from the boiler into the c e i l i n g mid and d r o p t h e m d o w n the walls :n the i n d i v i d u a l radiators, bach ot these 'inverted pipe l o o p s ' has its own d r a i n c o c k . W h e n you're d r a i n i n g the system, they must be drained separately after the m a i n system has been emptied. An inverted pipe loop has its own draincock

SEE ALSO: Turning off the water G-9, Gully 17, Rleeding radiators 61, Bleeding a pump 64

59

CENTRAL HEATING MAINTENANCE

Maintaining your boiler


T h e efficiency o f m o d e r n o i l - f i r e d a n d gas b o i l e r s d e p e n d s o n t h e i r b e i n g c h e c k e d a n d s e r v i c e d a n n u a l l y . Because the m e c h a n i s m s i n v o l v e d are s o c o m p l e x , the w o r k m u s t be d o n e b y a q u a l i f i e d engineer. W i t h e i t h e r type o f b o i l e r , y o u c a n enter i n t o a c o n t r a c t f o r r e g u l a r m a i n t e n a n c e w i t h y o u r fuel s u p p l i e r o r the o r i g i n a l installer.

SERVICING SCHEMES
Tt pays to have your central-heating system serviced regularly. C h e c k the Y e l l o w Pages for a suitable engineer, or ask the o r i g i n a l installer o f the system if he o r she is w i l l i n g to undertake the necessary servicing.

Servicing gas boilers Any maintenance that involves dismantling any part of a gas boiler must be carried out by aCORGI-registered engineer, who should undertake all the necessary gas-safety checks as part of the service. Ihete'sno aoint in attempting to service the boiler yourself if you are not qualified and equipped to do so - it can also be dangerous, and you wilibe breaking the law

Corrosion in the system


M o d e r n boilers and radiators are made from fairly thin materials, and if yon fail to take basic anti-corrosion measures, the life o f the system can be reduced to 10 years o r less. C o r r o s i o n may result either from hard-water deposits or from a chemical reaction between the water and the system's metal components. L i m e scale Scale builds up q u i c k l y in hard-Water areas o f the country. Even a t h i n layer of lime scale o n the inner w a l l o f a boiler's heat exchanger reduces its efficiency and may cause b a n g i n g and dog-like h o w l i n g w i t h i n the system. In fact, the scale can insulate sections of the heat exchanger to such an extent that it produces 'hot spots', leading to premature failure o f the c o m p o n e n t . Rust Rust corrodes steel components, most notably radiators. M o s t rusting occurs w i t h i n weeks of filling the system; but if air is being sucked in constantly, then rusting is progressive. H a v i n g to bleed radiators regularly is a sure sign that air is being drawn into the system. Sludge M a g n e t i t e (black sludge) clogs the p u m p and builds up in the b o t t o m o f radiators, r e d u c i n g their beat output, E l e c t r o l y t i c action D i s s i m i l a r metals, such as copper and a l u m i n i u m , act like a battery in the acidic water that is present in some central-heating systems. T h i s results in corrosion.

Gas installations
C a s suppliers offer a choice o f servicing schemes for boilers. These are primarily provided t o cover the suppliers' own installations, but they w i l l also service systems put in by other installers if a satisfactory inspection of the installation by the supplier is carried out first. T h e simplest o f the schemes provides for an annual check and adjustment of the boiler. If any repairs are found to he necessary', either at the time of the regular check or at other times d u r i n g the year, then the labour and necessary parts are charged separately. Hut for an extra fee it is possible to have both free labour and free parts for boiler repairs at any time of year. T h e gas supplier w i l l also extend the arrangement to include inspection of the whole heating system when rhe boiler is being checked, plus free parts and labour for repairs to the system. Y o u may find that your installer or a local f i r m o f C O R G I heating engineers offers a s i m i l a r choice of servicing and maintenance contracts. T h e best course is t o compare the schemes and decide which gives greatest value for money.

Reducing corrosion
D r a i n about half a litre (I pint) o f water from the boiler o r a radiator. O r a n g e water denotes rusting, and black the presence o f sludge. In either case, treat immediately w i t h corrosion inhibitor. If there are no obvious signs o f c o r r o s i o n , c o m p a r e the sample w i t h tap water. D r o p t w o p l a i n sreel nails into a screw-top glass jar c o n t a i n i n g some o f the sample water, and place t w o s i m i l a r nails in a jar o f clean tap water. A f t e r a couple o f days the nails in the tap water s h o u l d rust; but if your heating system contains sufficient c o r r o s i o n inhibitor, the nails in the sample jar w i l l remain bright. If they show signs o f c o r r o s i o n , your system needs t o p p i n g up w i t h inhibitor. It is i m p o r t a n t to use the same product that is already present in the system i f you don't k n o w what that is, d r a i n and flush the system, then refill w i t h fresh water and inhibitor. If the test proves inconclusive, check the sample jar after a m o n t h o r so: if the nails have begun to rust, then the i n h i b i t o r needs t o p p i n g up. Adding corrosion inhibitor Y o u can slow d o w n corrosion by adding a proprietary corrosion inhibitor t o the water. T h i s is best done when the system is first installed but the inhibitor can be introduced into rhe system at any time, provided the boiler is descaled before d o i n g so. If the system has been r u n n i n g for some time, it is better t o flush tt out firsr bv d r a i n i n g and refilling it repeatedly until the water runs clean. Otherwise, drain off about 20 litres (4 gallons) o f water enough ro empty the feed-and-expansion tank and a small amount of pipework - then pour the inhibitor into the tank and restore the water supply, which w i l l carry the inhibitor into the pipes. A b o u t .5 litres (1 gallon) w i l l be enough for most systems, but check the manufacturer's instructions. Finally, switch on the p u m p to distribute the inhibitor throughout the system.

Oil-fired installations
Both installers o f oil-fired centralheating systems and suppliers o f fuel o i l offer servicing and maintenance contracts s i m i l a r t o those outlined above for gas-fired systems. T h e choice of schemes available ranges from a simple annual check-up to complete cover for parts and l a b o u r whenever repairs are necessary. A s w i t h the schemes for gas, it pays to shop a r o u n d and make a comparison of the various services on offer and the charges that apply

f Dealing gas boilers Modern boilers fit snugly into standard kitchen cupboards

R e d u c i n g scale Y o u can buy low-voltage coils t o create a magnetic Held that w i l l prevent the hear exchanger o f your boiler becoming coated w i t h scale. However, unless you have soft water in your area, rhe only way ro actually avoid hard water in the system is ro install a water softener. Phosphate balls are sometimes used to prevent the f o r m a t i o n o f scale i n an instantaneous boiler. But unless the dispenser is regulated to release just the right a m o u n t , there's a danger of overdosing the system w i t h phosphates. Before fitting any device to reduce scale, it is essential t o seek the b o i l e r manufacturer's advice.

Solid-fuel systems
If y o u have a solid-fuel system, it is i m p o r t a n t to keep the chimney and the flueway swept. T h e job, which should be done twice a year, is very s i m i l a r to sweeping an open-fire chimney, access being either through the front of a r o o m heater that has a back boiler or through a soot d o o r in the flue pipe or chimney breast. W h e n you have swept the chimney, clean out the boiler w i t h a stiff brush and remove the dust and soot w i t h a v a c u u m cleaner. L i f t out any broken fire bars and d r o p new ones in place.

60

SEE ALSO: Water softeners 48, Switching off electricity 68

REMOVING A RADIATOR
There are a n u m b e r o f reasons w h y 1 may be necessary t o remove a radiator - for example, t o make decorating the wall behind it easier. Y o u can remove individual radiators w i t h o u t having to drain the w h o l e system. Make sure you have plenty o f rag t o hand for m o p p i n g up spilled water, plus a jug and a large b o w l . T h e water in the radiator w i l l be very d i r t y - so, if possible, roll back the floorcovering before you start. Shut off both valves, t u r n i n g the shank o f the i o c k s h i e l d valve clockwise with a key o r an adjustable spanner (1). Note the number of turns needed t o close it, so that later you can reopen it by the same amount. Unscrew the cap-nut that keeps the handwheel valve o r Iockshield valve attached to the adaptor in the end of the radiator (2). H o l d the jug under the joint and open the bleed valve slowly to let the water d r a i n out. Transfer the water from the jug to the b o w l , and continue d o i n g this until no more water can be drained off. Unscrew the cap-nut that keeps the other valve attached to the radiator, lift the radiator free f r o m its w a l l brackets, and drain any r e m a i n i n g water i n t o the bowl (3). If you're going to decorate the w a l l , unscrew the brackets. To replace the radiator, screw the brackets back in place, then rehang the radiator and tighten the cap-nuts o n both valves. C l o s e the bleed valve and reopen both radiator valves (open the Iockshield valve by the same n u m b e r of turns y o u used when closing it). Last of a l l , bleed the air f r o m the radiator.

Bleeding the system


T r a p p e d a i r p r e v e n t s r a d i a t o r s h e a t i n g u p fully, a n d r e g u l a r i n t a k e o f a i r c a n c a u s e c o r r o s i o n . I f a r a d i a t o r feels c o o l e r a t t h e t o p t h a n at t h e b o t t o m , it's l i k e l y t h a t a p o c k e t o f a i r has f o r m e d i n s i d e i t a n d is i m p e d i n g f u l l c i r c u l a t i o n o f the water. G e t t i n g the a i r o u t o f a r a d i a t o r ' b l e e d i n g ' i t is a s i m p l e p r o c e d u r e .

Bleeding a radiator
F i r s t switch off the c i r c u l a t i o n p u m p and preferably turn off the boiler too, a l t h o u g h that is not v i t a l . E a c h radiator has a bleed valve at one o f its top corners, identifiable by a square-section shank in the centre of the round b l a n k i n g plug. Y o u s h o u l d have been given a key to fir these shanks by the installer; but if not, o r if you have inherited an o l d system, you c a n buy a key for bleeding radiators at any D 1 Y shop o r ironmonger's. Use the key t o turn the valve's shank a n t i c l o c k w i s e about a quarter of a t u r n . It s h o u l d n ' t be necessary to turn it further - but have a small container handy t o catch s p u r t i n g water, in case you open the valve too far. Y o u w i l l probably also need some rags to m o p up water that dribbles f r o m the valve. D o n ' t try t o speed up the process by o p e n i n g the valve further than necessary t o let the air out - that is likely ro produce a deluge o f water. Y o u w i l l hear a hissing sound as the air escapes. Keep the key o n the shank of the valve; then when the hissing stops and the first dribble of water appears, close the valve tightly. B l o c k e d bleetl valve If no water o r air comes out when you attempt to bleed a radiator, check whether the feed-and-expansion tank i n rhe loft is empty. If the t a n k is full o f water, then the bleed valve is probably blocked w i t h paint. C l o s e the inlet and outlet valve at each end o f the radiator, then remove the screw f r o m the centre of the bleed valve. C l e a r the hole w i t h a piece o f wire, and reopen one o f the radiator valves slightly to eject some water f r o m the hole. C l o s e the radiator valve again and refit the screw in the bleed valve. O p e n b o t h r a d i a t o r valves and test the bleed valve again.

Dispersing an air pocket in a radiator

Fitting an air separator


If you f i n d you are having to bleed a r a d i a t o r o r radiators frequently, a large quantity o f air is entering the system. T h i s s i t u a t i o n s h o u l d be remedied before it leads t o serious c o r r o s i o n . C h e c k that the feed-and-expansion tank in the l o i r is not a c t i n g like a r a d i a t o r and w a r m i n g up when you r u n the central heating o r h o t water. T h i s w o u l d indicate that hot water is being p u m p e d through the vent pipe into the tank and t a k i n g air w i t h it back i n t o the system. T o cure the p r o b l e m , fit an air separator in the vent pipe and link it t o the c o l d feed that runs from rhe feed-and-expansion tank. 3 Final Draining lift radiator from brackets and drain off any remaining water. If the p u m p is fitted o n the return pipe t o the boiler, it may be s u c k i n g in air t h r o u g h the unions o r even through l e a k i n g spindles o n r a d i a t o r valves.

1 Close the valve

2 Unsctew cap-net

SEE ALSO: Draining the system 59, Filling the system 59

CENTRAL HEATING MAINTENANCE

Replacing radiator valves


L i k e t a p s , r a d i a t o r valves c a n d e v e l o p l e a k s - w h i c h are u s u a l l y relatively easy t o c u r e . O c c a s i o n a l l y , h o w e v e r , it's necessary t o r e p l a c e a f a u l t y valve.

REPLACING 0-RINGS IN A BELMONT VALVE


T h e spindle o f a Belmont valve is sealed w i t h O-rings - w h i c h you can replace w i t h o u t having to drain the radiator. To find out w h i c h O - r i n g s you need, take the plastic head o f the valve to a p l u m b e r s ' merchant before you begin w o r k . O n very o l d valves the rings are green, whereas the newer rings are red. W r a p an o l d towel a r o u n d the valve body and u n d o the spindle (which has a left-hand thread). A small a m o u n t of water w i l l leak out at first bur as you continue to remove the spindle, water pressure seals the valve automatically; T w o O-rings are housed in grooves in the spindle. Prise off the rings, using the tip o f a small screwdriver, and then lubricate the spindle w i t h a smear of silicone grease. Slide the new rings into p o s i t i o n and replace the spindle.

Curing a leaking radiator valve


Water l e a k i n g f r o m a r a d i a t o r valve is probably seeping f r o m a r o u n d the spindle (see left). However, when the water runs r o u n d and drips f r o m the valve's cap-nut, it's the nut that often appears t o be the source o f the leak. D r y the valve, then h o l d a paper tissue against the various parts o f the valve to ascertain exactly where rhe moisture is c o m i n g f r o m . If the nut is leaking, tighten it gently; if that's unsuccessful, u n d o and reseal it (see left).

VALVE HEAD

Grip leaky value with wrench and tighten cap-nut

Replacing a worn or damaged valve


To replace a radiator valve, first drain the system, then lay rags under the valve to catch the dregs. H o l d i n g the body o f the valve w i t h a wrench (or water-pump pliers), use an adjustable spanner to unscrew the cap-nuts that hold the valve to the pipe (1) and also to the adaptor in the end of the radiator. Lift the valve from the end o f the pipe (2); if you're replacing a locksbield valve, be sure ro close it first - c o u n t i n g the turns, so you can open the new valve by the same number to balance the radiator. Unscrew- the valve a d a p t o r from the r a d i a t o r (3). Y o u may be able to use an adjustable spanner, d e p e n d i n g on the type o f adaptor, o r may find you need a hexagonal radiator spanner. Reseating a cap-nut Drain the system and undo the leaking nut. Smear the olive with silicone sealant and retighten the cap-nut. Don't overtighten the nut or you may damage the olive. As an alternative to sealant, wind two turns of PTFE tape around the olive loot around the threads). Fitting the new valve Ensure that the threads in the end of the radiator are clean. D r a g the teeth of a hacksaw across the threads of rhe new adaptor to roughen them slightly, then w i n d P T F E tape four or five times r o u n d them. Screw the adaptor into the end of the radiator and tighten with a spanner. Slide the valve cap-nut and a new olive over the end o f the pipe and fit the valve (4| - but don't tighten the cap-nut yet. First, h o l d i n g the valve body w i t h a w r e n c h , align it w i t h the adaptor a n d tighten the cap-nut that holds t h e m together (5). T h e n tighten the cap-nut that holds the valve t o the water pipe (6). Refill the system and check for leaks.

Leaking spindle To stop a leek from a radiator-valve spindle, lighten the gland nut with a spanner. If the leak persists, undo the nut and wind a few turns of PTFE tape down into the spindle.

4 Fit new adaptor, then fil the new valve on the pipe

5 Connect valve to adaptor and tighten cap-nut

6 Tighten cap-nut that holds the valve to the pipe

62

SEE ALSO: Draining the system 59, Adjustable spanner 77, Pipe wrench 78, PTFE tape 81

Replacing a radiator
Try to o b t a i n a new r a d i a t o r exactly the s a m e size as the o n e you're p l a n n i n g t o replace. T h i s makes the j o b r e l a t i v e l y easy.

CENTRAL HEATING MAINTENANCE

Installing a different-pattern radiator


M o r e w o r k is involved in replacing a r a d i a t o r if y o u can't get another one o f the same p a t t e r n . Y o u w i l l probably have t o fit new w a l l brackets a n d alter the pipe runs. D r a i n your central-hearing system, then take the o l d brackets off the w a l l . Lay the new r a d i a t o r face d o w n on the floor and slide one o f its brackets onto the hangers welded to the back o f the radiator. M e a s u r e the p o s i t i o n o f the brackets a n d transfer these measurements t o the w a l l (1). Y o u need to a l l o w a clearance o f 100 to 125mm (4 to 5in) below the radiator. L i n e u p the new r a d i a t o r brackets w i t h the p e n c i l marks o n the w a l l , and mark the fixmg-screw holes for them. D r i l l and p l u g the holes, then screw the brackets in place (2). Take up the floorboards below the radiator and sever the vertical portions of the feed and return pipes (either cap the o l d T-joints o r replace them w i t h straight joints). C o n n e c t the valves to the b o t t o m o f the radiator and hang it on its brackets. Slip a new vertical pipe i n t o each of the valves a n d , using either c a p i l l a r y or compression fittings, connect these pipes to the o r i g i n a l p i p e w o r k r u n n i n g under the floor (3). T i g h t e n the nuts connecting the new pipes to the valves. Finally, refill the system w i t h water, and check all the new connections and joints for leaks.

Simple replacement
D r a i n the o l d r a d i a t o r and remove it from the w a l l . T h e n unscrew the t w o valve adaptors at the b o t t o m o f the radiator, u s i n g an adjustable spanner or a hexagonal r a d i a t o r spanner. Next, use a bleed key to unscrew the bleed valve; then remove b o t h o f the b l a n k i n g plugs f r o m the top o f the radiator, using a r a d i a t o r s p a n n e r (1). C l e a n any c o r r o s i o n f r o m the threads o f the a d a p t o r s a n d b l a n k i n g plugs w i t h w i r e w o o l (2), then w i n d four o r five turns o f P T F E tape r o u n d the threads (3), Screw the plugs and adaptors into the new r a d i a t o r ; and then screw the bleed valve i n t o its blanking plug. H a n g the new r a d i a t o r o n the w a l l brackets and connect the valves to their adaptors. O p e n the valves, then fill and bleed the radiator. 1 Removing the plugs Use a radiator spanner to unscrew the two blanking plugsatthe top of the radiator.

I Tianstetting the measurements Measure the positions ol the radiator brackets and transfer these dimensions to the wall.

1 Cleaning the threads Use wire wool to clean any corrosion from the threads of the blanking plugs and valve adaptors.

3 Taping the threads Make the threaded joints watertight by wrapping four r five turns of PTFE tape round the plugs and adaptors before you screw them into the new radiator. Use a hacksaw blade to roughen the threads, in order to encourage the tape to grip.

"

if m
3 Connecting the new pipework. Make sure the vertical section ol pipe aligns with the radiator valve. 2 Securing the brackets Screw the mounting brackets to the wall

SEE ALSO: Connecting pipes 20-3, 25-7, Draining the system 59, Bleeding radiators 61, Removing radiators 61, Adjustable spanner 77, Radiator spanner 77, PTFE tape 81

CENTRAL HEATING MAINTENANCE

Servicing a pump
W e t c e n t r a l h e a t i n g d e p e n d s o n a steady cycle o f h o t w a t e r p u m p e d f r o m the b o i l e r t o t h e r a d i a t o r s t h e n b a c k t o the b o i l e r f o r r e h e a t i n g . If the p u m p is n o t w o r k i n g properly, t h e result is p o o r c i r c u l a t i o n o r n o n e at a l l . A d j u s t i n g o r b l e e d i n g the p u m p m a y be the answer; o t h e r w i s e , i t m a y need r e p l a c i n g .

Bleeding the pump


If an a i r l o c k forms in the c i r c u l a t i o n p u m p , the i m p e l l e r spins ineffectually and your r a d i a t o r s fail t o w a r m u p properly. T h e cure is t o bleed the a i r f r o m rhe p u m p , a p r o c e d u r e s i m i l a r to b l e e d i n g a r a d i a t o r . Have a jar h a n d y to catch any s p i l l e d water. L o o k for a s c r e w - i n bleed valve i n the p u m p ' s outer casing. T h e n s w i t c h o f f the p u m p and o p e n the bleed valve slightly w i t h a screwdriver o r vent key until y o u hear a i r h i s s i n g o u t . W h e n the h i s s i n g stops and a d r o p o f water appears, close rhe bleed valve.

Adjusting the pump


Using an [nfra-red thermometer This is a relatively sophisticated - and costly-thetmo meter for measuring the temperature drop across a radiator. To obtain an instant reading, simply aim the sensor atthe pipe just below the radiator valve Basically, there are t w o types o f centralheating p u m p : fixed-head and variablehead. Fixed-head pumps r u n at a single speed, forcing the heated water r o u n d the system ar a fixed rate. T h e speed o f variable-head p u m p s is adjustable. W h e n fitting a variable-head p u m p , the installer balances the radiators, then adjusts the p u m p ' s speed to achieve an o p t i m u m temperature for every r o o m . If y o u can't boost a room's temperature by o p e n i n g rhe radiator's handwheel valve, try adjusting the p u m p speed. However, before adjusting the p u m p , you s h o u l d check that all your radiators show the same temperature d r o p between their inlets a n d outlets. T o test your r a d i a t o r s , you can o b t a i n a p a i r o f c l i p - o n thermometers from a p l u m b e r s ' merchant. C l i p one o f the thermometers t o the feed pipe just below the radiator valve; and the other one t o the return pipe, also below its valve (1). T h e difference between the temperatures registered by the thermometers s h o u l d be about 11C ( 2 0 F ) . If it's not, close the lockshield valve slightly t o increase the difference in temperature; o r open the valve to reduce it.
o

1 Clip thermometers to the radiator pipes

Bridging the gap Modern pumps are sometimes smaller than equivalent older models. If this proves to be the case, buy a converter designed to bridge the gap in the existing pipework.

H a v i n g balanced all the radiators, you can now adjust the p u m p ' s speed by one increment at a rime (2) until the radiators are giving the overall temperatures you require. D e p e n d i n g on the make and m o d e l o f p u m p , you may need t o use a special t o o l , such as an A l l e n key, to make the adjustments. S w i t c h o f f the p u m p before m a k i n g each adjustment.

2 Adjust pump speed to alter the temperature

Replacing a worn pump


If y o u have ro replace a faulty p u m p , make sure y o u buy a new one that is equivalent in performance. If in d o u b t , consult a professional installer. First, turn off the boiler and close the isolating valves situated on each side of the pump. If the p u m p lacks isolating valves, you w i l l have to drain d o w n the whole system. A t your consumer unit, identify the electrical c i r c u i t that supplies the p u m p a n d remove the relevant c i r c u i t fuse o r M C B . T h e n take the coverplatc o f f the p u m p {!) and disconnect its w i r i n g . With a bowl o r bucket ready to catch the water from the p u m p , u n d o the nuts that h o l d the p u m p to the valves ot pipework (2). H a v i n g removed the o l d p u m p , install the n e w one (3), t a k i n g care t o fit correctly any sealing washers that are provided. T i g h t e n the connecting nuts. Remove the coverplate from the new p u m p and feed in the flex. C o n n e c t the wires t o the pump's terminals (4), then replace the coverplate. If the p u m p is of the variable-head type (see above), ser the speed control to match the speed indicated o n the o l d pump. O p e n b o t h i s o l a t i n g valves - o r refill the system, if you had t o d r a i n it - then check the p u m p connections for leaks. O p e n the pump's bleed valve to release any trapped air. Finally, replace the fuse o r M C B in the c o n s u m e r unit and test the pump.

1 Remove coverplate

2 Undo connecting nuts

3 Attach new pump

4 Connect power flex

SEE ALSO: Draining the system 59, Filling the system 59, Removing a fuse 72

REPLACING THE ELECTRIC MOTOR

Replacing a control valve


C o n t r o l valves are t h e m e a n s b y w h i c h t i m e r s a n d t h e r m o s t a t s a d j u s t t h e level o f h e a t i n g . W o r n o r f a u l t y c o n t r o l valves c a n s e r i o u s l y i m p a i r t h e r e l i a b i l i t y o f the s y s t e m , a n d s h o u l d t h e r e f o r e be r e p a i r e d o r r e p l a c e d p r o m p t l y .

CENTRAL HE ATI NC MAINTENANC

If a motorised valve ceases t o open, its electric motor may have failed, Before replacing the motor, use a mains resrer to check whether it's receiving power. If it is, fit a new motor. There is no need to d r a i n the system. Switch off the electricity supply to the central-heating system {see right) don't merely turn off the programmer, as motorized valves have a permanent live feed. O n c e the power is off, remove the cover and u n d o the single screw that holds the m o t o r in place (1). O p e n the valve, u s i n g the m a n u a l lever, a n d lift out the m o t o r |2). D i s c o n n e c t t h e two m o t o r wires by c u t t i n g off the connectors. Insert a new m o t o r - available from a plumbers' merchant - then let the lever s p r i n g back t o the closed p o s i t i o n . Fit and tighten the retaining screw. Strip the ends and connect the wires, using the new connectors supplied (3). Replace the valve cover, and test the operation by t u r n i n g on the power and tunning the system.

Replacing a faulty valve


W h e n you buy a new valve, make sure it is o f exactly the same pattern as the one you are replacing. D r a i n the system. T h e n , at your c o n sumer unit, remove the fuse o r M C B for the circuit to w h i c h the central-heating controls are connected. T h e flex from the valve w i l l be w i r e d to an adjacent j u n c t i o n box, which is also connected to the heating system's other controls. Take the cover off the box and disconnect the w i r i n g for the valve - m a k i n g a note o f the terminals used, to make reconnection easier. T o remove the o l d valve, simply cut through the pipe o n each side (1). When fitting the new valve, bridge the gap w i t h short sections o f pipe, complete w i t h joints at each end (2). S p r i n g the assembly into place and connect the joints t o the o l d pipe, then tighten the valve cap-nuts (3). C o n n e c t the valve's flex to the junction box, then insert the circuit fuse o r M C B .

Two-port control valve A two-port valve seals off a section of pipework when the water has reached the reqoired temperature.

1 Removing the valve If you're unable to disconnect the valve, use a hacksaw to cut through the pipe on each side.

Three-port control valve This type of valve can isolate the central heating from the hotwater circuit.

1 Releasing the motor-retaining screw Remove the cover and then the retaining screw.

2 Fining ihe new valve With the new valve connected to short sections of pipe, spring the assembly into the pipe tun.

Soldered coupling 2 Removing the motor Push the lever to open the valve, then lift out motor. 3 Tightening Ihe nuts Having connected the pipes, tighten The valve cap-nuts on each side, using a pan of spanners. Refill the heating system and check that the valve is working properly. Slip couplings It can sometimes be difficult to replace a valve using two con jentional z nts I' you can't spring the new assembly into place (see left), use a slip coupling atone end. This coupling is free to slide along the pipe to btidge the gap.

3 Tilting the new molar Join the wires, using the two connectors supplied

SEE ALSO: Making pipe joints 20, Heating controls 57, Draining the system 59, Removing a fuse 72

Underflow heating
W i t h the a v a i l a b i l i t y o f f l e x i b l e plastic p l u m b i n g , sophisticated c o n t r o l s a n d efficient i n s u l a t i o n , u n d e r f l o o r h e a t i n g has b e c o m e a viable and affordable f o r m o f central heating. Specialist m a n u facturers have d e v e l o p e d a range o f w a r m - w a t e r h e a t i n g systems to suit v i r t u a l l y any s i t u a t i o n . T h e s a m e c o m p a n i e s generally offer a d e s i g n service a i m e d at p r o v i d i n g a heating system that satisfies the c u s t o m e r ' s specific requirements. A n installation m a n u a l is delivered a l o n g w i t h the necessary m a t e r i a l s a n d equipment.
Underfloor heating can be incorporated in any type o f floor construction, including sol id-concrete floors, boarded floating floors and suspended timber floors (see below}. T h e hear emanates from a c o n t i n u o u s length o f plastic rube that snakes across the floor, f o r m i n g parallel loops and covering an area o f one o r more rooms. T h e entire floor area is divided into separate /ones t o provide the most efficient layout. E a c h zone is c o n t r o l l e d by a roomstat and is connected t o a t h e r m o s t a t i c a l l y c o n t r o l l e d multi-valve m a n i f o l d that forms the heart o f the system. T h e m a n i f o l d controls the temperature o f the water and the flow rate t o the various zones. O n c e a room or zone reaches its required temperature, a valve a u t o m a t i c a l l y shuts off that part o f the circuit, A flow meter for each o f the zones allows the circuits to be balanced when setting up the system and subsequently m o n i t o r s its performance. T h e manifold, which is installed abtne floor level, is connected to the boiler via a conventional circulation pump.

Underfloor-heating systems

BENEFITS OF UNDERFLOOR HEATING


Combining systems You can have radiators upstairs and underfloor heating downstairs. A mining manifold will allow you to combine the two systems, using the same boiler Any type of boiler is suitable for underfloor heating, but a condensing bailer is the most economic. A l t h o u g h it's easier t o i n c o r p o r a t e u n d e r f l o o r h e a t i n g while a house is being b u i l t , i n s t a l l i n g it i n an e x i s t i n g b u i l d i n g is by n o means i m p o s s i b l e . A n d there's n o reason why u n d e r f l o o r heating can't be made t o w o r k a l o n g side a p a n e l - r a d i a t o r system it c o u l d provide the ideal s o l u t i o n for heating a new e x t e n s i o n o r conservatory, for example. C o m p a r e d w i t h panel radiators, an underfloor-heating system radiates heat more evenly and over a w i d e r area. T h i s has die effect o f reducing hot and c o l d spots w i t h i n the r o o m and produces a more comfortable environment, where the air is warmest at floor level and cools as it rises towards the ceiling. Underfloor heating is also energyefficient, because it operates at a lower temperature than other central-heating systems - and because there's a more even temperature throughout a r o o m , the roomstat can be set a degree o r two lower, yet the house still feels w a r m and cosy. T h e net result is a saving on fuel costs a n d , w i t h relatively c o o l water in the return cycle, a modern condensing boiler works even more efficiently Because there are no radiators o r conveetors to accommodate, you have greater freedom when p l a n n i n g the layout of furnishings. T h e floors c a n be finished w i t h any conventional covering, but the thermal resistance of the floori n g needs to be taken into account when the system is designed.

Methods for installing underfloor heating


W h e n underfloor heating is installed in a new b u i l d i n g , the plastic tubes are usually set i n t o 3 so I id-concrete floor (1). M o o r i n g i n s u l a t i o n is l a i d over the base concrete, and rows o f special pipe clips .ire fixed to tin- i n s u l a t i o n ; some times a metal mesh is used instead o f the clips. T h e flexible heating tubes are then clipped into place at the required spacings (see opposite}, and a concrete screed is p o u r e d o n top. W i t h a hoarded floating floor (2), a layer of grooved insulation is laid over the concrete base, and the pipes are set in a l u m i n i u m 'diffusion' plates inserted in the grooves. T h e entire Boor area is then covered w i t h an edge-bonded chipboard o r a similar decking material. T h e heating pipes c a n be fastened w i t h spacer clips to the underside of a suspended w o o d e n floor (3). In this situation, clearance holes are d r i l l e d through the foists at strategic points to permit a c o n t i n u o u s run of pipework. Reflective foil a n d thick blanket insulation are then fixed below the pipes. It is possible t o lay the pipes o n t o p of a suspended floor, but this method raises the floor level by the thickness o f the pipe assembly and the new- d e c k i n g .

Maintaining unde til oor heating The heating elements are virtu ally maintenance free. It the flow through the pipework becomes restricted, then the circuit can be flushed through with ma ins-pressure water by attaching a hose to the manifold

66

SEE AI SO: Panel radiators 55, Thermostats 57

Installing underfloor heating


A d d e d t o .in e x i s t i n g r a d i a t o r system, underfloor heating makes a g o o d choice for heating a new conservatory extension. T h e large areas o f glass i n a c o n s e r v a t o r y present very f e w options for placing radiators, a n d the concrete s l a b t h a t is t y p i c a l l y used f o r c o n s e r v a t o r y floors p r o v i d e s a n i d e a l base f o r this f o r m o f h e a t i n g .

The basic plumbing system


Your supplier w i l l suggesi the best point to connect your new p l u m b i n g to the existing central-heating circuit. It c a n be at any convenient point, provided that the performance o f your radiators w i l l not be affected. T h e pipework c o n n e c t i n g the m a n i fold for the u n d e r f l o o r heating t o the radiator circuit can be metal o r plastic. and it can be the same size as but not larger t h a n the existing pipes. A g a i n your supplier w i l l advise what t o use. T h e flow and return pipes f r o m the m a n i f o l d to the conservarory circuit (illustrated here, as an example) are connected t o i n d i v i d u a l zone d i s t r i b utors, w h i c h in t u r n arc connected to the flexible underfloor-heating tubes, 4

Basic system 1 Flow and return pipes from existing centra I-heating circuit. 2 Water-temperature mixing value. 3 Pump 4 Manifold with zone valves. 5Zone distributors. 6 Underfloor-heating lube,

WHERETO START
Send the details o f your proposed extension to the underfloor-healing supplier. The company w i l l also need a sealed plan of your house and the basic details of your present central-heating system in order to be able to supply you w i t h a well-planned scheme and q u o t a t i o n . You can expect to receive a complete package, i n c l u d i n g all the components and an installation m a n u a l .

Constructing the floor


You w i l l need to excavate the site and lay a concrete base as recommended by the conservatory manufacturer, a surveyor, o r your local B u i l d i n g C o n t r o l Officer ( B C O ) , T h e base must include a d a m p - p r o o f membrane (DP.M). A l l o w for a covering layer o f floor insulation a m i n i m u m o f 5 0 m m (2in) flooringgrade expanded polystyrene o r 3 0 m m ( 1 Win) extruded polyurethane (check w i t h your B C O ] . T h e floor should be finished w i t h a 6.5mm (2!^in) sand-audcemcnt screed, plus the preferred floorcovering. W h e n laying the floor i n s u l a t i o n slabs, you s h o u l d install a strip o f i n s u l a t i o n , 2 5 m m (Iin) t h i c k , all r o u n d the edges. T h i s is t o prevent c o l d b r i d g i n g the m a s o n r y walls a n d the floor screed. C u t a hole t h r o u g h the house w a l l , ready for the new p l u m b i n g .

' 4- ...

I ; Vi

Floor construction 1 Blinded hardcore 2 0PM 3 Concrete base 4 Insulation 5 Edge insulation fi Pipe clips and pipe 7 Screed 8 Floor tiles

Your options
T h e simplest type o f system w i l l be c o n nected t o the pipework of your existing radiator circuit. Heat for the extension will only be available when the existing central heating is running, although the temperature in the conservatory can be controlled independently by a roomstat connected to I motorised /one valve and the underfloor-heating pump. bbr full control, the flow and return pipework to the underfloor system must be connected directly to the boiler, and the roomstat must be wired up t o switch the boiler on and off and to control the tcmperamre of the conservatory. If it proves impossible to utilize the existing heating system, o r the boiler has insufficient capacity and cannot he upgraded, then you w o u l d need to have a n independent boiler and p u m p system to heat the conservatory.

Installing the system


M o u n t the m a n i f o l d in a convenient place and connect the t w o d i s t r i b u t o r blocks below it - one for the flow, and the other for the return. R u n the flow and return pipes back into the house, ready for c o n n e c t i n g to the existing central-heating circuit. Install your new p u m p and a m i x i n g valve in the flow and return pipes. h o l l o w i n g the layout s u p p l i e d by the system's manufacturer, press the spikes of the pipe clips i n t o the i n s u l a t i o n at the prescribed s p a c i n g (1). L a y out the heating tubes for b o t h coils, a n d clip them i n t o place. Push the end o f one of the coils into the flow distributor, and the other end of the same c o i l into the return distributor (2). Connect the other coil similarly. C o n n e c t the flow and return pipes to the house's central-heating system - it pays t o insert a p a i r o f isolating valves at this p o i n t , so that you can shut off the new circuit for servicing. F i l l , flush out and check the new system for leaks. A p p l y the screed composed o f 4 parts sharp s a n d : I part cement, w i t h a plasticizer additive. Leave it to dry tor at least three weeks before laying your Boorcovering - don't use heat to accelerate the drying. Fit the roomstat at head height, out of direct sunlight. M a k e the electrical connections, then set the roomstat t o control the circuit p u m p and zone valve, f o l l o w i n g the instructions supplied.

1 Press the pipe clips into place

2 Push tuning into the distributors

SEE ALSO: Pipe joints 20, Heating controls 57, Draining the system 59

'" NTJ
E

Main switch equipment


Electricity flows because o f a difference i n ' p r e s s u r e ' b e t w e e n the live w i r e a n d the n e u t r a l o n e , a n d this difference i n pressure is m e a s u r e d i n v o l t s . D o m e s t i c e l e c t r i c i t y i n this c o u n t r y is s u p p l i e d as a l t e r nating current, at 230 volts, b y w a y o f the e l e c t r i c i t y c o m p a n y ' s m a i n service c a b l e . T h i s n o r m a l l y enters y o u r house underground, although i n s o m e areas e l e c t r i c i t y is distributed by overhead cables.
Main switch eguipment Typical fuse-board layout 1 Meter 2 Consumer unit 3 Main isolating switch I Powet and lighting-circuit cables 5 Meter leads 6 Eanh cable 7 Consumerseanh terminal Cross-bonding cables to gas and water pipes 9 Service head (also known as Ihe cutout} ID Bonding clamps II Main service cable

The service head


Cross-bonding coble sizes Single-care cables are osed to cross-bond gas end water pipes to earth. An electrician can calculate the minimum size for these cables, but lor any single house or flat, it is safe to use I0mm cable. (See also PME opposite!
!

T h e main cable terminates at the service head, o r 'cutout', w h i c h contains the service fuse. T h i s fuse prevents the neighbourhood's supply being affected if there s h o u l d be a serious fault in the circuitry of your house. Cables connect the cutout t o the meter, which registers how m u c h electricity you consume. Both the meter and cutout belong to the electricity c o m p a n y and must not be tampered w i t h . T h e meter is sealed in order to disclose interference. If you use cheap night-time power for storage heaters and hot water, a time switch w i l l be mounted between the cutout and the meter.

The main isolating switch Not all main isolating switches operate the same way. Belore you need In use it, check to see whether the main switch on your consumer unit has to be in the up or down position for 'off.

Consumer unit
Electricity is fed t o and f r o m the consumer unit by 'meter leads', thick single-core insutated-and-shcathed cables made up o f several wires twisted together. T h e c o n s u m e r u n i t is a box that contains the fuseways that protect the i n d i v i d u a l circuits in the house. It also incorporates the main i s o l a t i n g switch, which you operate when you need t o cut o f f the supply of power to the whole bouse. In a house where several new circuits have been installed over the years, the number o f circuits may exceed rhe number o f fuseways in the c o n s u m e r unit. If so, a n i n d i v i d u a l switchfuse unit o r more than one - may have been m o u n t e d alongside the m a i n unir. Switchfuse units comprise a single fuseway and an i s o l a t i n g s w i t c h ; they, too, are connected to the meter by means o f meter leads. If your home is heated by off-peak storage heaters, then you w i l l have an E c o n o m y 7 meter and a separate consumer unit for the heater circuits.

: SWITCHING : OFF THE POWER


In an emergency, s w i t c h o f f the supply of electricity t o the entire house by operating the m a i n i s o l a t i n g s w i t c h o n the c o n s u m e r unit. Before w o r k i n g o n any part o f the electrical system o f y o u r h o m e , always operate the m a i n i s o l a t i n g s w i t c h , then remove the i n d i v i d u a l circuit fuse o r miniature circuit breaker ( M C B ) that w i l l cut o f f the power t o the relevant c i r c u i t . T h a t circuit w i l l then be safe t o w o r k o n , even i f you restore the power to the rest o f the house by operating the main switch again.

68

SEE ALSO: Switchfuse unit 72, Cheaper electricity 73, Electric shock treatment 80, Circuit breakers 81

Bathroom safety
Because water is s u c h a h i g h l y efficient c o n d u c t o r o f electric current, water a n d electricity f o r m a very d a n g e r o u s c o m b i n a t i o n . F o r this r e a s o n , i n terms o f electricity b a t h r o o m s are p o t e n t i a l l y the m o s t d a n g e r o u s areas i n y o u r h o m e . W h e r e there are s o m a n y e x p o s e d m e t a l pipes and fittings, c o m b i n e d w i t h wet conditions, regulations must be s t r i n g e n t l y o b s e r v e d i f fatal accidents are t o be a v o i d e d .

Supplementary bonding
* ** ******************

In any b a t h r o o m there are many n o n electrical metallic c o m p o n e n t s , such as metal baths and basins, supply pipes to bath and basin taps, metal waste pipes, radiators, central-heating p i p e w o r k and so on all o f w h i c h c o u l d cause an accident d u r i n g the time ir w o u l d take for a n electrical fault t o b l o w a fuse or operate a m i n i a t u r e circuit breaker ( M C B ) . T o ensure that n o dangerous voltages are created between metal parts, the W i r i n g Regulations stipulate that all these metal c o m p o n e n t s must be connected one t o another by a c o n d u c t o r which is itself connected to a t e r m i n a l on the e a r t h i n g block in the c o n s u m e r unit. T h i s is k n o w n as supplementary b o n d i n g and is required for all b a t h r o o m s - even when there is no electrical e q u i p m e n t installed i n the r o o m , and even though the water and gas pipes are b o n d e d to the consumer's earth t e r m i n a l near the c o n s u m e r unit. W h e n electrical equipment such as a hearer o r shower is fitred in a b a t h r o o m , rhat t o o must be supplementary-bonded by connecting its metalwork - such as the casing to the nonelectrical metal pipework, even though the appliance is connected t o the earthing c o n d u c t o r in the supply cable.

C o n n e c t i n g to p i p e w o r k A n earth c l a m p (1) is used for m a k i n g connections t o p i p e w o r k . Cleat) the pipe l o c a l l y w i t h wire w o o l to make a g o o d c o n n e c t i o n between the pipe and clamp, a n d scrape o r strip an area of p a i n t w o r k if the pipe has been painted.

Wiling regulations exist to ensure that bathrooms are safe places. However, you should familiarize yourself with what to do if someone does receive an electric shock. See p. SB for further details.

1 Fit an earth ciamp to pipework C o n n e c t i n g t o a bath o r basin M e t a l baths o r basins are made w i t h an earth tag. C o n n e c t the earth cable by trapping the bared end o f the c o n d u c t o r under a nut and bolt w i t h metal washers (2). M a k e sure the tag has not been painted o r enamelled. If an o l d metal bath o r basin has not been provided w i t h an earth tag, drill a hole through the foot o f the bath o r through the rim at the back o f the basin; and connect the cable w i t h a similar nut and bolt, w i t h metal washers.

GENERAL SAFETY
Sockets in L i s t not be fitted in 3 bathroom - except for special shaver sockets that c o n f o r m to BS E N 60742 C h a p t e r 2, Section 1. T h e IEE W i r i n g Regulations stipulate that light switches in bathrooms must be outside zones 0 to 3 (see opposite). T h e best way to c o m p l y w i t h this requirement is to fit only ceilingmounted pull-cord switches. A n y b a t h r o o m heater must c o m p l y with the IEE W i r i n g Regulations. If you have a shower in a b e d r o o m , it must be not less than 3 m (9ft 11 in) f r o m any socket otulet, which must be protected by a 30 m i l l i a m p R C D . Light fittings must be well out of reach and shielded - so fit a close-mounted ceiling light, properly enclosed, raiher than a pendant fitting. Never use a portable fire o r other electrical appliance, such as a hairdryer, in a bathroom even i f it is plugged into a socket outside the r o o m . 2 Connect to hath or basin earth tag C o n n e c t i n g to an appliance S i m p l y connect the earth cable to the terminal provided in the electrical appliance (3) and r u n it t o a c l a m p on a metal supply pipe nearby Supplementary bonding in a bathroom

Making the connections


T h e W i r i n g Regulations specify the m i n i m u m si/.e of earthing c o n d u c t o r that can be used for supplementary b o n d i n g in different situations, so that large-scale electrical installations can 3 Fix to the earth terminal in an appliance The appliance's own earth connection may share be costed economically. In a domestic the same terminal. environment, use 6 m m - single-core cable insulated w i t h green-and-yellow P V C for supplementary bonding. T h i s is large enough to be safe in any domestic situation. For a neat appearance, plan the route of the b o n d i n g cable to run H a v e supplementary b o n d i n g tested by f r o m p o i n r ro point behind the bath a qualified electrician. If you have not panel, under floorboards, and through had any previous experience o f w i r i n g basin pedestals. If necessary, run rhe and m a k i n g electrical connections, cable through a hollow w a l l o r under have supplementary b o n d i n g installed plaster, like any other electrical cable. by a professional.
a

WARNING

SEE ALSO: Bonding to earth G, Electric shower 38, 41, Switches 70, Batfiroom heaters 71, Shaver sockets 71, Electric shock treatment 80, PME 81

69

Zones for bathrooms i UNDER THE BATH


W i t h i n a r o o m c o n t a i n i n g a b a t h o r s h o w e r , the I E E W i r i n g R e g u l a t i o n s define areas, o r zones, w h e r e specific safety precautions apply. T h e r e g u l a t i o n s also describe w h a t type o f
T h e space under a bathtub is designated

as zone 1 i f it is accessible without

The four zones

having to use a tool - that is, if there is no bath panel or if the panel is attached e l e c t r i c a l a p p l i a n c e s c a n be i n s t a l l e d i n e a c h z o n e , a n d t h e r o u t e s with magnetic catches o r similar devices c a b l e s m u s t t a k e i n o r d e r t o serve t h o s e a p p l i a n c e s . T h e r e a r e that allow the panel to be detached without using a tool o f some k i n d . If, special considerations for extra-low-voltage equipment w i t h however, the panel is screw-fixed - so s e p a r a t e d e a r t h ; t h i s is best left t o a q u a l i f i e d e l e c t r i c i a n . that it can only be removed w i t h the aid of a screwdriver - then the enclosed space beneath the hath is considered to be outside all zones.

A n y r o o m containing a bathtub o r shower is d i v i d e d i n t o four zones. Z o n e 0 is the i n t e r i o r o f the b a t h t u b or shower tray - not i n c l u d i n g the space beneath the t u b , w h i c h is covered by o t h e r r e g u l a t i o n s (see top right). Z o n e s 1 t o 3 are specific areas

above a n d a l l r o u n d the b a t h o r shower, where o n l y specified e l e c t r i c a l a p p l i a n c e s a n d their cables may be i n s t a l l e d . W i r i n g o u t s i d e these areas must c o n f o r m t o the I E E W i r i n g R e g u l a t i o n s , but n o specific ' z o n e ' r e g u l a t i o n s apply.

Supplementary bonding
In bathrooms, n on-electrical metallic c o m p o n e n t s must be bonded to earth (see opposite). In zones 1, 2 and 3, this supplementary b o n d i n g is required to all pipes, any electrical appliances and any exposed metallic structural c o m ponents of the b u i l d i n g . T h i s does not include w i n d o w frames, unless they are themselves connected t o metallic structural components. Supplementary b o n d i n g is not required outside the zones. A n d in the special case of a bedroom c o n t a i n i n g a shower cubicle, supplementary b o n d i n g can also be omitted from zone 3. Cable runs You are not permitted to run electrical cables that are feeding a zone through anothatzone designated with a lower number. This includes cables buried in the plaster or concealed behind other wallcoverings

ZONE Zone a Zone 1

LOCATION Interior of the bathtub or shower tray. Directly above the bathtub or showettray, up to a height of 2.25m (7ft 5in| from the floor. (See also top right.1 Area within D.Bm (2lt) horizontally from the bathtub or shower tray in any direction, up to a height of 2.25m (7ft 5m) from Ihe go or. The area above zone l , up to a height of 3m (9ft 1'in] from the floor.

PERMITTED No electrical installation. Instantaneous water heater. Instantaneous shower. All-in-one power shower, with a soitably waterproofed integral pump. The wiring that serves appliances within the zone. Appliances permitted in zone 1. Light fittings. Extractor fan. Space heater. Whirlpool unit lor Ihe bathtub. Shaver socket to BS EN 60742 Chapter 2, Section 1, The wiring that serves appliances within the zone and any appliances in zone t. Appliances permitted in zones 1 and 2. Any filed electrical appliance (a heated towel rail, for example) that is protected by a 30 milliamp P.CD The wiring that serves appliances within the zone and any appliances in zones 1 and 2.

Zone 2

Switches
Electrical switches, i n c l u d i n g ceilingm o u n t e d switches operated by a pull c o r d , must be situated outside the zones. T h e only exceptions are those switches a n d controls i n c o r p o r a t e d i n appliances suitable for use in the zones. If the b a t h r o o m c e i l i n g is higher than 3m (9ft 1 [in), ceiling-mounted p u l l - c o r d switches can be mounted anywhere. However, i f the ceiling height is between 2.25 and 3 m (7ft 5in and 9ft 1 l i n ) , pul I-cord Switches must be mounted at least 0.6m (2ft) - measured horizontally - from the bathtub o r shower cubicle. If the c e i l i n g is lower than 2.25m (7ft 5in), switches can only be mounted outside the r o o m . 13amp sockets In the special case of a bedroom containing a shower cubicle, socket outlets are permitted in the room, but only outside the zones, and the circuit that feeds the sockets must be protected by a 30 milliamp BCD

Zone 3

Up to 2 4m (7ft llinl outside zone 2. up to a height of 3.25m (7ft 5inl from the floor. The area above zone 2 neit to the bathtub or shower, up to a height of 3m 19ft U in) ftom the floor.

IP coding
225m Electrical appliances installed in zones 1 and 2 must be manufactured w i t h suitable protection against splashed water. T h i s is designated by the code I P X 4 (the letter X is sometimes replaced with a single digit). A n y number larger than four is also acceptable as this indicates a higher degree of waterproofing, [f in d o u b t , check w i t h your supplier that the appliance is suitable for its intended l o c a t i o n .

IP coding Suitable equipment may be marked with the symbol shown above

D.6m Zones will: i a room containing a bath or shower

70

SEE ALSO: Wiring heaters 71, Wiring a shower unit 71, Electric shock treatment 80

WIRING A SHOWER UNIT


A n electrically heated shower unit is p l u m b e d i n t o the mains water supply. T h e flow o f water operates a switch to energize a n element that heats the water on its way t o the shower sprayhead. Because there's so little time to heat the flowing water, instantaneous showers use a heavy l o a d - f r o m 6 to 10.8kW. Consequently, an electrically heated shower unit has to have a separate radial c i r c u i t , w h i c h must be protected by a 30 m i l l i a m p R C D . T h e circuit cable needs to be 1 0 m m two-core-and-earth. F o r showers up to 10.3kW, the circuit should be protected by a 45amp M C B o r fuse, either in a spare fuseway at the consumer unit or in a separate single-way consumer unit fitted w i t h a 30 m i l l i a m p R C D . A 10.8k W shower needs a 50amp M C B . The cable runs directly to the shower unit, where it must be wired according to the manufacturer's instructions.
1

Wiring heaters
W h e n you're i n s t a l l i n g a s k i r t i n g heater o r w a l l - m o u n t e d heater o r an oil-filled radiator, wire the a p p l i ance t o a fused c o n n e c t i o n unit m o u n t e d nearby, at a height o f about 150 t o 3 0 0 m m (6in to 1 ft) from the floor. W h e t h e r the connection to the unit is by flex o r cable w i l l depend o n the type o f appliance. F o l l o w the manufacturer's i n s t r u c t i o n s for w i r i n g , a n d fit the a p p r o p r i a t e fuse i n the c o n n e c t i o n unit. In a b a t h r o o m , a fused connection unit must be mounted outside zones 0 t o 3. A n y heater that is m o u n t e d near the floor of a b a t h r o o m must therefore be wired to a connection unit installed outside the r o o m . If the appliance is fitted w i t h flex, mount a flexible-cord outlet {!) next to the appliance - and then run a cable from the outlet t o the fused connection unit outside the b a t h r o o m and connect it t o the ' L o a d ' terminals in the unit. T h e flexible-cord outlet is m o u n t e d either o n a standard surface-mounted box o r flush o n a metal box. A t the back o f the faceplate are three pairs o f terminals t o take the c o n d u c t o r s f r o m the flex and the cable |2). FLEX

WIRII

HEATE

Radiant wall heaters


R a d i a n t w a l l heaters for use in barhrooms must be fixed high o n the w a l l , outside zones 0 to 2. A fused connection unit fitted w i t h a D a m p fuse (or 5amp fuse for a heater o f t k W o r less) must be mounted at a high level outside the zones, and the heater must be controlled by a doublepole p u l l - c o r d switch (with this type of switch, both live and neutral contacts are broken when it is off). M a n y heaters have a built-in double-pole switch; otherwise, you must fit a ceilingmounted LSamp double-pole switch between the fused connection unit and the heater. Switch terminals marked ' M a i n s ' are for the cable on the circuit side o f rhe switch; those marked ' L o a d ' are for the heater side. T h e earth wires are connected t o a c o m m o n terminal o n the switch box. If it is n o t possible t o r u n a spur t o the fused connection unit from a socket outside the b a t h r o o m , r u n a separate radial circuit f r o m the connection unit ro a LSamp fuseway in the consumer unit, using 2.5mm~ cable. In either case, the circuit s h o u l d be protected by a 30 milliamp R C D .

T h e shower unit itself has its o w n on/off switch, but there must also be a separate isolating switch in the circuit. T h i s must not be accessible t o anyone using the shower, so you need to install a ceiling-mounted 45amp double-pole pull-switch (a 50amp switch is required for a l O . S k W shower). T h e switch has to be fitted w i t h an indicator that tells you when the switch is ' o n ' . F i x the backplate o f the switch to the ceiling a n d , having sheathed the earth wires with a grccn-and-ycllow sleeve, connect them to the F. terminal o n the switch. C o n n e c t the conductors f r o m the consumer unit t o the switch's ' M a i n s ' t e r m i n a l , and those o f the cable to the shower to the ' L o a d ' terminals T h e shower unit and all metal pipes and fittings must be bonded to earth.

T Flexible-cord outlet Wall-heater ciicuil 1 Heater 2 Connection unit 3 Spur cable 4 Socket 5 Power circuit 6Consumer unit with t 30mA RCD CIRCUIT CABLE2 Wiring a flexible-cord outlet

Shower circuit
Include an RCD

Shaver sockets
Special shaver socket outlets are the o n l y k i n d o f electrical socket allowed in b a t h r o o m s . T h e y c o n t a i n a transformer that isolates the user side o f the unit from the mains, r e d u c i n g the risk of an electric shock. T h i s type of socket has to c o n f o r m to the exacting British Standard BS E N 60742. However, there are shaver sockets that d o not have an isolating transformer and therefore don't c o n f o r m t o this standard. These are quite safe to install and use in a b e d r o o m but this type of socket must not be fitted in a bathroom. You can wire a shaver socket f r o m a j u n c t i o n box on an earthed l i g h t i n g circuit o r f r o m a fused c o n n e c t i o n unit, fitted w i t h a 3 a m p fuse, o n a tingcircuit spur. If you're i n s t a l l i n g the shaver socket in a b a t h r o o m , then rhe fused c o n n e c t i o n unit must be p o s i t i o n e d outside the r o o m . R u n 1 m m - two-core-and-earth cable f r o m the connection unit t o the shaver socket; then connect the c o n d u c t o r s ; red to L a n d black to N (1). Sheath the earth w i r e w i t h a green-and-yellow sleeve a n d connect it to E . 1 Wiring a shaver unii

1 Shower 2 Ceiling switch Radiai circuit 4 Consumer unit

RADIAL-CIRCUIT CABLE

SHOWER CABLE

1 Wiring a ceiling switch

* SEE ALSO: Switching off power E8, Bathroom safety 69, Zones for bathrooms 70, Switches 70, Electric shock treatment 80

71

WiRII CONNECTION UNITS

Fused connection units


A fused c o n n e c t i o n u n i t is a d e v i c e for j o i n i n g the flex ( o r cable) o f a n a p p l i a n c e t o c i r c u i t wiring. T h e connection unit i n c o r p o r a t e s the a d d e d p r o t e c t i o n o f a c a r t r i d g e fuse.

HOT WATER
T h e water in a storage cylinder can be heated by an electric i m m e r s i o n heater, p r o v i d i n g a central supply o f hot water for the w hole house. The heating element is rather like a larger version of the one that heals an electric kettle. It is n o r m a l l y sheathed in copper, but more expensive sheathings of incoloy or t i t a n i u m w i l l increase the life o f the clement in hard-water areas. A d j u s t i n g the water temperature T h e thermostat that controls the maxi m u m temperature of the water is set by adjusting a screw inside the plastic cap covering the t e r m i n a l box (1).

Changing a (use With the else trie hy turned oft, re mo HE the retaining screw in the face of the fuse holder. Take the holder from the connection unit; prise out the old fuse and fits new one;then teplace the holder and the retaining screw.

If the appliance is connected by a flex, choose a unit that has a c o r d outlet in the faceplate. Some fused c o n n e c t i o n units arc fitted w i t h a s w i t c h , and some o f these have a neon i n d i c a t o r that shows at a glance whether they are switched o n . A switched connection unit allows you to isolate the appliance f r o m the mains. A l l fused c o n n e c t i o n units ate single (there are no d o u b l e versions available) w i t h square faceplates that fit metal boxes for flush m o u n t i n g o r standard surface-mounted plastic boxes. Fused connection units 1 U"switched connection unit 2 Switched unit with cord outlet and indicator 3 Connection unit and socket outlet in a dual mounting box.

Types o f i m m e r s i o n heater A n i m m e r s i o n heater can be installed either from the top of the cylinder o r from the side, and top-entry units can have single o r d o u b l e elements. W i t h the single-element top-entry type, the element extends d o w n almost to the b o t t o m o f the cylinder, so that all o f the water is heated whenever the heater is switched on (2). For economy, one o f the elements in the double-element type is a short one for daytime top-up heating, while the other is a full-length element that heats the entire contents o f the cylinder, using the cheaper night-rate electricity (3). A double-element heater that has a single thermostat is called a t w i n element heater; one w i t h a thermostat for each element is k n o w n as a d u a l element heater. Side-entry elements are o f identical length. O n e is positioned near t o the b o t t o m o f the cylinder, and the other a little above h a l f way (4).

Wiring a fused connection unit


Fused c o n n e c t i o n units can be s u p p l i e d by a r i n g c i r c u i t , a radial circuit o r a spur. Some appliances are connected to the unit w i t h flex, others w i t h cable. Either way, the w i r i n g arrangement inside the unit is the same. U n i t s w i t h c o r d outlets have clamps to secure the connecting flex. A n unswitched c o n n e c t i o n unit has two live (L) terminals - one m a r k e d ' L o a d ' for the b r o w n wire o f the flex, a n d the other m a r k e d ' M a i n s ' for the red w i r e f r o m the circuit cable. T h e blue wire f r o m the flex and the black w i r e f r o m the circuit cable go t o s i m i l a r neutral (N) t e r m i n a l s ; and b o t h earth wires are connected t o the unit's earth (E) t e r m i n a l o r terminals (1), S w i t c h e d connection unit A fused connection unit w i t h a switch also has t w o sets of terminals. T h o s e marked ' M a i n s ' are for the spur o r r i n g cable that supplies the power: the terminals marked ' L o a d ' are for the flex o r cable f r o m the appliance. Wire up the flex side first, connecti n g the b r o w n wire t o the L t e r m i n a l , and the blue one t o the N t e r m i n a l , both on the ' L o a d ' side. C o n n e c t the grecn-aud-yellow wire t o the F. terminal (2) and tighten the c o r d clamp. A t t a c h the circuit c o n d u c t o r s t o the ' M a i n s ' terminals - red to L , and black i n X ; then sleeve the earth wire and take it ro the F. t e r m i n a l (2). If rhe fused connection unit is on a ring circuit, you must fit two circuit conductors into each ' M a i n s ' terminal and into the earth terminal. Before securing the unit in irs box w i t h the fixing screws, make sure the wires are held firmly in the terminals and can fold away neatly

ELEMENT TERMINAL BOX

THERMOSTAT

FLEX CIRCUIT CABLE 1 Wiring a fused connection unit

CIRCUIT CABLE

2 Wiring a switched fused connection unil

4 Side-entry elements

72

* SEE ALSO: Switching off power B8, Circuits 79, Electric shock treatment 8D

HEATING WATER ON THE NIGHT RATE


If y o u agree t o their i n s t a l l i n g a special meter, your electricity c o m p a n y w i l l supply you w i t h cheap-rate power for seven hours sometime between m i d night and S.00 a.m., the exact p e r i o d being at the discretion o f the company. This scheme is called E c o n o m y 7. Provided you have a cylinder that is large enough to store hot water for a day's requirements, you can benefit by heating all your water d u r i n g the E c o n o m y 7 hours. Even i f you heat your water electrically o n l y in summer, the scheme may be w o r t h w h i l e . F o r the water to retain its heat all day, you must have an efficient i n s u l a t i n g jacket fitted to the c y l i n d e r o r a c y l i n d e r already factory-insulated w i t h a layer of heat-retaining foam. If your cylinder is already fitted w i t h an immersion heater, you can use the existing w i r i n g by fitting an E c o n o m y 7 programmer, a device that w i l l switch your immersion heater on automatically at night and heat up the whole cylinder. Then if you occasionally run out o f hot water d u r i n g the day, you can always adjust the programmer's controls to boost the temperature briefly, using the more expensive day rime rate. You can make even greater savings if you have t w o side-entry i m m e r s i o n heaters o r a dual-element one. T h e programmer w i l l switch o n the longer clement, o r the borrom one, at night; but i f the water needs heating d u r i n g the day, then the upper o r shorter element is used.

Wiring immersion heaters


The circuit
T h e majority of immersion heaters are rated at 3 k W ; but although you can wire most 3 k W appliances to a ring circuit, an immersion heater is regarded as using 3 k W continuously, even though rarely switched on all the time. A continuous 3 k W load w o u l d seriously reduce a r i n g circuit's capacity, so immersion heaters must have their o w n radial circuits. T h e circuit needs to be r u n in 2 . 5 m m two-core-and-earth cable protected by a 15amp fuse. Each element must have a double-pole isolating switch mounted near the cylinder; the switch should be marked ' W A T E R H E A T E R ' and have a neon indicator (1). A 2.51111^ heat-resistant flexible cord runs from the switch to the immersion heater. If the c y l i n d e r is s i t u a t e d i n a b a r h r o o m , the switch must be outside zones 0 t o 2. If this precludes an o r d i n a r y water-heater s w i t c h , fit a 20amp ceiling-mounted pull-switch w i t h a m e c h a n i c a l ON/OFF i n d i c a t o r . Heater circuit 1 Heater 2 Flex 3 Switch 4 Radial circuit 5 Consumer unit

CIRCUIT CABLE . RCD prelection When instilling any electrical appliance in a bathroom, the circuit should be protected by a 30 milliamp BCD.

0 .

1 A20amp switch for sn immersion heater

Wiring side-entry heaters


For s i m p l i c i t y use t w o switches, one for each hearer and m a r k e d accordingly: W i r i n g the switches F i x the t w o m o u n t i n g boxes t o the w a l l , feed a circuit cable t o each, and w i r e them in the same way. Strip and prepare the wires, then connect them to the ' M a i n s ' terminals red to L , black t o N . Sheath the earth w i r e in a green-and-yellow sleeve and f i x it t o the c o m m o n earth t e r m i n a l (2). Prepare a heat-resistant flex for each switch. A t each one, connect the greenand-yellow earth w i r e t o the c o m m o n e a r t h t e r m i n a l and the other wires t o the ' L o a d ' t e r m i n a l s - b r o w n t o L , and blue to N (2). T h e n tighten the flex clamps and screw on the faceplates. W i r i n g the heaters The flex from the upper switch goes to the top heater, and the flex f r o m the lower switch to the b o t t o m one. A t each heater, feed the flex through the hole m the cap and prepare the wires. C o n n e c t the b r o w n wire to one of the terminals on the thermostat (the other one is already connected t o the wire r u n n i n g to an L t e r m i n a l on the heating element). Connect the blue wire to the N t e r m i n a l , and the green-and-yellow wire to the E t e r m i n a l (3). Then replace the caps o n the terminal boxes. 3 Wiring the heater

Economy 7 without a programmer


You can have a similar arrangement without a programmer if you wire t w o separate circuits for the elements. T h e upper element is wired to the daytime supply, while the lower one is wired t o its own switchfuse unit and operated by the E c o n o m y 7 time switch d u r i n g the hours of the night-time tariff only. A setting of 75C (167F) is recommended for the lower element, and 60C (14uE) for the upper one. If your water is soft or your heater elements are sheathed in titanium o r incoloy, you can raise the temperatures to S O X (175F) and 65C (150^') respectively w i t h o u t reducing the life of the elements. To ensure that you never run short of hot water, leave the upper unit switched o n permanently. It w i l l only start heating up if the thermostat detects a temperature o f 60C (140 F) or less, w h i c h s h o u l d happen very rarely i f you have a large cylinder that is properly insulated.
D

R u n n i n g the cable R u n the circuit cables from the cylinder cupboard to the fuse board; then, w i t h the power switched off, connect the cable from the upper hearer ro a spare luseway in the consumer unit. A l t h o u g h the consumer unit is switched off, the cable between the main switch and the meter w i l l remain live so take special care. Wire the other cable to its own switchfuse unit or to your storageheater consumer unit, if you have one ready for connection to the E c o n o m y 7 time switch. M a k e the connections as described for a cooker circuit.

LIVE

Dual-element heaters
Wire the immersion-heater circuit as described above, but feed the flex from both switches into the cap on the heater. Connect the brown wire f r o m the upper switch to the L 2 terminal on the one thermostat, and the other brown wire to the L I terminal on the second thermostat (4). C o n n e c t the blue wires to their respective neutral terminals (4). Connect both earth wires to the E terminal.

1 Make sure your heater is fitted with two thermostats, as shown.

Switching off power 68, Consumer units G8, Zones for bathrooms 70, Circuit lengths 79

73

Plumbing tools
PLUMBER'S AND METALWORKER'S TOOL KIT
Although plastics have been used for drainage for some time, the advent of ones suitable for ma ins-press II rc and hot water has affected tile plumbing trade more radically. However, brass fittings and pipework made from copper and other meials are still extensively used for domestic plumbing, so the plumbers tool kit is still basically for working metal. Spring dividers Spring dividers are similar to a pencil compass, but both legs have steel points. These are adjusted to the required spacing by a knurled nut on a threaded rod thai links the legs. Using spring dividers Use dividers to step-off divisions (i/oHg a line {1} or to scribe circles {2f. liv running one pohn against the edge of a warkpiece you cin scribe a imr parallel with the
t

I ,i

.1 ' . ' v . ' ' ' J ' ) '

'

EQUIPMENT FOR REMOVING BLOCKAGES


You don't have to get a plumber to clear blocked appliances, pipes or even main drains. A l l the necessary equipment can he bought or hired.

Drain auger A flexible coiled-wirc drain auger will pass through smalldi a meter waste pipes to clear blockages. Pass the corkscrewlike head into the waste pipe till it reaches the blockage, clamp the cranked handle onto the other end, and then turn it to rotate the head and engage the blockage. Push and pull the auger till the pipe is clear.

Steel rule You will need a long tape measure for estimating pipe runs and positioning appliances, but use a 300 or 600mm (1 or 2ft) steel rule for marking out components when absolute accuracy is required.

?Aw (31. Try square You can use a woodworker's try square to mark out or check right angles; however, an allmetal engineer's try square is precis ion-made for metalwork. The small notch between blade and stock allows the tool to fir properly against a right-angled workpicce even when the cornet is burred by filing. For generalpurpose work, choose a 1 flhn 'in try square.

JE) Sink plunger This is a simple but effective tool for clearing a blockage from a sink, washbasin or bath trap. A pumping action on the rubber cup forces air and water along the pipe to disperse the blockage When you buy a plunger, make sure the cup is large enough ro cover the waste outlet. It is possible to hire larger plungers for clearing blockages from W C traps. PLUNGER CORKSCREW SCRAPER Drain rods You can hire a complete set of rods and fittings tor clearing main drains and inspection chambers. The cods come in 1 m (3ft 3in) lengths of polypropylene with threaded brass connectors. The clearing heads comprise a double-worm corkscrew fitting, a 100mm (4in) rubber plunger and a hinged scraper for clearing the open channels in inspection chambers. 1 Stepping-otf

METAL-GUTTING TOOLS You can cut solid bar, sheet and tubular metal with an ordinary hacksaw, but there are toots specifically designed for cutting sheet metal and pipes.

MEASURING AND MARKING TOOLS I .-. - for measuring and marking metal are very similar to those used for wood, but ihc> arc made and calibrated for greater accuracy because metal parr* must fit wich precision. Centre punch A centre punch is an inexpensive tool for marking the centres of holes to be drilled. Using a centre punch Willi lis point on dead centre, strike the punch with a hammer. If the mark is not accurate, angle the punch towards the true centre, tap it to extend the mark m that direction, and then murk the centre again.

Essential tools Sink plunger Scribe/ Centre punch Steel rule Try square General-purpose hacksaw

Hydraulic pump A blocked waste pipe can be cleared with a hand-operared hydraulic pump. A downward stroke creates i powerful jet of water that should push the obstruction cleat. If, however, the blockage is lodged firmly, an upward stroke may create enough suction to pull the obstruction out of place.

Genera I-pur pose hacksaw A modern hacksaw has a tubular-steel frame with a light cast-metal handle. The frame is adjustable to accommodate replaceable blades of different lengths, which are tensioned by tightening a wing nut.

W C auger The short coiled-wire W C auger designed for clearing W C and gully traps is rotated by a handle in a rigid, hollow shaft. The auger has a vinyl guard to prevent the W C pan getiing scratched.

Scriber Exjr precise work, use a pointed hardened-steel scriber to mark lines and hole centres on metal. Use a pencil to mark the centre of a bend, as a scored line made with a scriber may open up when the metal is stretched nn [he fnttsicle of the bend.

Correcting a misplaced centre mark

SEE ALSO: Clearing a WC 17, Clearing drains 18

Plumbing tools
CHOOSING HACKSAW BLADES * * * * * * * * You can buy 200, 250 and 300mm (8, 10 and 12in) hacksaw blades. Try the different lengths till you find ibt one that suits you best. Choose the hardness and size of teeth according to the type of metal yon are planning tu cut. Junior hacksaw Use a junior hacksaw tor cutting small-bore tubing and thin metal rod. The simplest ones hare a solid spring-steel frame that holds the blade under tension. 1 Turn fitst kerf away iiom you Sawing metal bar Hold the work in an engineer's vice, with the marked cutting line as close to the iaws as possible. Start the cut on the waste side of the line with short strokes until the kerf is about I mm (Htinldeep; then turn the bar 90 degrees in the vice, so that the kerf faces awa\ from vou, and cut a similar kerf in the new face IV. Continue in this way until the kerf runs right round the bar, then cut through the bar leitb long steady strokes. Steady the end of the saiv with your free hand, and put a little light oil on the blade if necessary

TOOLS & SKI


PLUti

Using linsnips As WW cut along the marked line, let the waste curl away below the sheet. To cut thick sheet metal, clamp one handle of the snips in a vice, so you can apply vour full iveight to the other one. Try not to close the jaws completely every time, as that can cause a jagged edge on the metal. Wear thick gloves when cutting sheet metal.

2 Wavy set S i l t and set of teeth A coarse hacksaw.' blade has 14 to IS teeth per 25mm (Ihl); a fine one has 24 to .52. The teeth axe set (bent sideways) to make a cut wider than the blade's thickness, lo prevent it jamming in the work. Coarse teeth are 'raker set' (1) - with pairs of teeth hem 10 opposite sides and separated by a tooth left in line with the blade to clear metal waste from the kerf (cut). Fine teeth are too small to be raker set, and the whole row is "wavy set' (2|. Use a coarse blade for tuning soft metals like brass and aluminium, which would clog fine teeth; and a fine blade for thin sheet and the harder metals. Hardness A hacksaw blade must be harder than the metal it is cutting, or its teeth will quickly blunt. A flexible blade with hardened teeth will cut most metals, but there are fullv hardened blades that stay sharp longer and are less prone to losing teeth. However, being rigid and brittle, they break easily. Blades of high-speed steel are expensive and even more hrirtle than the fully hardened ones, but they will em very hard alloys. Fitting a hacksaw blade With t u teeth pointing auay from the handle, slip a new blade onto the puis ill each end of the hacksaw frame. Apply tension with the wing nut. If the new blade lends to wander off line as you cut. lighten the wing nut.

Essential tools Junior hacksaw Cold chisel Tinsnips Tube cutter

Fitting a new blade To fit a blade, locate it in the slot at the front of the frame and bow the frame against a workbench until the blade fits in the rear slot.

SHARPENING SNIPS
('lamp one handle in a vice and sharpen the cutting edge with a smooth file. File the other edge and finish by removing the burrs from the backs of the blades on an oiled slipstonc.

Sawing rod or pipe As you cut a cylindrical rod or tube, rotate it away from you till the kerf runs right round the rod or tube be fare you sever it.

Kngititer's vice A large engineer's or metalworker's vice has IO be bolted to the M irk hen eh, but smaller ones can be clamped on. Slip soft fibre liners over the jaws of a vice to protect work pieces held in it.

Cold chisel Plumbers use cold chisels for hacking old pipes oui of masonry. They are also useful for chopping the heads off rivets and cutting metal rod. Sharpen the np of the chisel cm a bench grinder.

Sheet-metal cutter Finsnips tend to distort a narrow strip cut from the edge of a metal sheet. However, the strip remains perfectly flat when removed with a sheetmetal cutter. The same tool is also suited to cutting rigid plastic sheet, which cracks if it is distorted by tinsnips. lube cutrer A tube cutter slices the ends off pipe*, at exactly 90 degrees to their length. The pipe is clamped between the cutting wheel and an adjustable slide with two rollers, and is cut as the tool is moved round it. The adjusting screw is tightened between each revolution. A pipe slice, which works like a tube cutrer, can be operated in eon fined spaces. Chain-link cutter Cut large-diameter pipes w u h a chain-link cutter. Wrap the chain round the pipe, locate the end link in the clamp, and tighten rhe adjuster until the cutter on each link bites into the metal. Work the handle back and forth lo score rhe pipe, and continue tightening the adjuster intermittently until the pipe is severed.

Tube cutter

Sawing sheet metal To saw a small piece of sheet metal, sandwich it between two strips of wood clamped in a vice. Adjust the metal to place the cutting line close to the strips, then saw down the waste side with steady strokes and the blade angled to the work. To cut a thin sheet of metal, clamp it between two pieces of plywood and cut through all three layers simultaneously. Sawing a groove To cut a slot or groove wider than a standard hacksaw blade, fit two or more identical blades in the frame at the same time.

Straight snips

Univetsnl snips Finsnips Tins nips are used for cutting sheet metal. Straight snips have wide blades for cutting srraight edges, [f you try to cut curves with them, the waste usually gets caught against the blades; but it is possible to cut a convex curve by progressively removing small straight pieces of waste down to rhe marked line. Universal snips have thick narrow blades that cut a curve in one pass and will also make straight curs.

l urning blade Sometimes its easier to work with the blade at right angles to the frame. To do so. rotate the square-section spigots a quarter turn liefore fitting the blade.

Chain-link cuncr

SEE ALSO: Cutting pipe 21

TOOLS & SKILLS

'LUMBING

Plumbing tools
DRILLS AND PUNCHES Special-quality Red bits are made for drilling holes in metal. Cut 12 to 25mm ('/: to I in) holes in sheet metal with a hole punch. METAL BENDERS Thick or hard metal must be heated before it t a n be bent successfully, but soft copper piping and sheet metal tan he bent while told. PIPE-FHEEZING EQUIPMENT To work on plumbing without having to drain the system, vou tan form temporary ite plugs in me pipework. T he water lias IO be told and not (lowing. Using freezing equipment You can buy a kit containing an aerosol of liquid freezing gas, plus two plastic-foam 'jackets' to wrap round the pipework at the points where ran want the warer to freeze. Pierce a small hole through the wall of each lacker and bind il securely lo the pipe then insert rhe extension tube through the hole (2) and inject the recommended amount of gas. It takes about five minutes for the ice plug n form in a metal pipe, and up to 15 minutes in a plastic one. If the |ob takes more than hall an hour to Complete, vou wilt need to inject more gas.

! FLUX
* * * ^
# v

Twist drills Metal-cutting twist drills are similar ro the ones used for wood but rhey arc made from high-speed steel and their tips are ground to a shallower angle. Use them in a power drill at a slow speed. Mark the metal with a centre punch to locate the drill point, and clamp rhe work in a vice or to the bed of a vertical drill stand. Drill slowly and steadily, and keep the bit oiled. To drill a large hole, make a small pilot hole first to guide the larger drill bit. When drilling sheet metal, the hit can jam and produce a ragged hole as it exits on the far side of the workpiece. As a precaution, clamp the work between pieces of plywood and drill through all three layers.

Internal spring

External spring Bending springs You can bend small-diameter pipes over your knee, but theit walls must be supported with a coiled spring to prevent them buckling. Push an internal spring inside the pipe, or slide an external one over it. Either type of spring must fit the pipe exactly. CURVED FORMERS

*
#

9 t * ^
m

Masonry core drills These are heavy-duty versions of the woodworking hole saw. Masonry care drills cut hales up to 150mm lEin) diameter in brick Or stone walls for running new waste pipes to the outside.

STRAIGHT FORMERS Hole punch Use a hole punch to make large holes in sheet metal. Having first marked out the circumference of the hole on the metal with spring dividers, lay the work on a piece of scrap softwood or plywood. Dace the punch on the marked circle and tap it with a hammer, then cheek the alignment of the punched ring with the scribed circle. Reposition the punch and, wirh one sharp hammer blow, cut through the metal. If the wood etushes and the metal is slightly distorted, tap it Hat again with ihe hammer. Tube bender Willi a tube bender, a pipe is bent over one of two fixed curved formers that are designed lo give the optimum radii for plumbing and support the svalls of the pipe during bending. Hach has a matching straight former, which is placed between the pipe and a steel roller on a movable lever. Operating this lever bends rhe pipe over the curved former.

4 # Alternatively, hire jackets with * '.yhnders ; f carbon i l t w d l or * an electric freezer connected to two blocks that you elamp over * the pipework. An elcctrit freezer will keep the water frozen until m n finish rhe job and switch off. t
^ m

To be soldered successfully, ft joint must be perfectly clean and free of oxides. Even after the metal has been cleaned with wire wool or emery, oxides form immediately, making a positive bond between the solder and metal impossible. Flux is iherefore used to form a chemical barrier against ^ l d a i c m , Corrosive or 'active flux, applied with a brush, dissolves oxides but must be washed from the surface with water as soon as the solder solidifies, or it will go on corroding the mernh A 'passive' flux, in paste form, is used where it is impossible to wash the joint thoroughly. Although it docs not dissolve oxides, it excludes them adequately for soldering topper plumbing joints and electrical connections. Another alternative is to use wire solder containing flux in a hollow core. The flux flows just before the solder melts. To flush flux from a tcntraiheating system, fill it with water and let it heat up, then switch off and drain the system. This should be repeated a couple of times1

1 Wrap a jacket around the pipe

Soldering irons For suctessful soldering, the work hits to become hot enough for the solder to melt and flow otherwise it solidifies before it can completely penetrate the joint. A soldering iron is used to apply the necessary heat.

Pencif-point.fon 2 Inject freezing gas inside Ihe jacket Soft mallet Soft mallets have a head made of toiled rawhide, hard rubber or plastic. They are used in bending strip or sheet metal, which would be damaged by a metal hammer. Ta pared-Tip iron TOOLS FOR JOINING METAL ********** You can make permanent water tight | units with colder, a molten i l b v that acts like a glue when n tools and solidifies. Mechanical fixings such as compression joints, rivets, and nuts and bolts are also useo" Tor joining metah Use ft low-powered pencil-point iron for soldering electrical connections. To bring sheeT ineul up ru working temperature, use a larger iron with a tapered tip.

Essential tools High-speed twist drills Power drill Bending springs Soft mallet Soldering iron Gas torch

lank tuttor Use a tank cutter to make holes for pipework in plasiie or mcral cold-water storage tanks.

To bend sheet metal at a nglu angle, elamp it between stout battens along the bending line. Start at one end and bend the metal over one of the battens by tapping it with the mallet. Don't attempt the full bend at once, hui work along the sheer, increasing ; SOLDERS the angle graduallv and keeping it constant along the length until 9 Solders are designed lo melt at the metal lies Hat on the batten. relatively low tempera Hires, but Tap out any kinks. * they will not work in rhe presence * of water. When working on hotwater and cold-water plumbing, i use a lead-free solder, it has a * slightlv higher melting point than the old lead snider and makes stronger joints.
9

L inning a soldering iron The rip of a soldering iron has to be 'tinned' to keep it oxide free* Ctean the cool tip with a file; then heat it to working temperature, dip it in flux, and apply a stick of solder to coat it evenly.

E ALSO:

Soldering pipes 21, Bending pipes 23, Storage tanks 49, Spring

Plumbing tools
the parts together. Place the assembly on a fireproof mat or surround it with firebricks. Bring the joint to red heat with the torch, then dip a stick of the appropriate alloy in flux and apply it to the jointWhen the joint is cool, chip off hardened flux, wash the metal thoroughly in hot water, and finish the joint with a file. Fireproof mat Buy a fireproof mat from a plumber's merchant to pronect flammable surfaces from the heat of a gas torchPush the rivet through a hole in the workpiece and while pressing the loot hard against the metal, squeeze the handles to compress the rivet head on the far side (2). When the rivet is fully expanded, the shank will snap off in the tool.
s

TOOLS & SKILL

PLUMBIN

Square nut

hexagnnal nut

Using a soldering iron Clean the mating surfaces of the joint to a bright finish and coat them with flux, then clamp the joint tightly between two wooden battens. Apply the hot iron along the joint to beat, the metal thoroughly; and then run its tip along the edge of the joint, following closely with a Hick of solder. The solder flows immediately into a properly heated joint.

SPANNERS AND WRENCHES * * * * * * * * A professional plumber uses a great variety of spanners and wrenches on a wide range of fittings and fixings. However, there is no need to buy them all, since you can hire ones that you oeed only occasionally.

Choosing a ring spanner Choose a 12-point spanner. It is fast to use and will fit both square and hexagonal nuts. You can buy combination spanners with a ring a! one end and an open jaw at the other.

Gas torch Even a large soldering iron can't hear, thick meral fast enough to compensate for heat loss from the joint, and this is very much rhe siruation when you solder pipework. Although rhe copper unions have very thin walls, the pipe on each side dissipates so much heat that a soldering iron cannot get the joint itself hot enough to form a watertight soldered seal. You thercforeneed to use a gas torch with an intensely hot flame to hear, rhe work quickly. The torch runs on liquid gas contained under pressure in a disposable metal canister that screws onto the ga* inlet. Open the control valve and light rhe gas released from the nozzle, then adjust the valve until the flame roars and is bright blue. Use the hottest part of the flame - abour the middle of its length - to hear the joint.

Hot-air gun Some hot-air guns designed for stripping old paintwork can also be used for soft soldering. You can vary the temperature of an electronic gun from about 100 to 600C. A heat shield on the nozzle reflects the heat back onto the work.

Open-ended spanner A set of open-ended spanners is essential for a plumber or metalworker. Pipes generally run inro a fitting or accessory, and the only rool you can use is a spanner wirh open jaws. The spanners are usually double-ended (perhaps in a combination of merric and imperial sizes), and the sizes are duplicated within a set to enable you to manipulate rwo identical nuts simultaneously - on a compression joint, for example.

Box spanner A box spanner is a steel tube with hexagonal ends. The turning force is applied wirh a tommy bat slipped through holes drilled in the tube. Don'i use a very long bar: roo much leverage may strip the thread of the fitting or distort the walls of the spanner.

RiVET Blind riveter Join thin sheet metal with a blind riveter, a hand-operated tool with plier-like handles. It uses special rivets with long shanks that break off, leaving slightly raised heads on both sides of the work.

Adjustable spanner Having a movable jaw, an adjustable spanner is not as strong as an open-ended or ring spanner, hot is often the only rool thai will fit a large nut or one that's coated wirh painr. Make sure the spanner fits the nut snugly by rocking it slightly as you tighten the jaws; and grip rhe nut with rhe roots of the jaws. If yoti use just the rips, they can spring apart slightly under force and the spanner will slip.

Achieving a tight fit A spanner must be a good fit, or it will round the corners of the nut. You can pack out the jaws with a thin 'shim' of metal if a snug fit is otherwise not possible. Basin wrench

11nsert the rivet

2 Squeeze the handles Using a riveter Clamp the two sheets together and drdl holes right through the metal, matching the diameter of the rivets and spaced regularly along the joint. Open the handles of the riveter and insert the rivet shank in the head II).

Ring spanner Being a closed eirele, rhe head of a ring spanner is stronger and fits better than that of an openended one. It is specially handy for loosening a corroded nur, provided you are able to slip rhe spanner over it.

Cranked spanner and basin wrench A cranked spannet is a special double-ended wrench fot use on tap connectors. A basin wrench (for the same job) has a pivoting jaw that can be set for either tightening or loosening a fitting.

Essential teals Blind tiveter Set of open-ended spanners Small and large adjustable spanners

Hard soldering and h razing Use a gas f o r c ^ for brazing and hard soldering. Clean and flux the work if possible with an active flux - then wire or clamp

Radiator spannet Use this simple spanner, made from hexagonal-secrion sreel rod, to remove radiaror blanking plugs. One end is ground to fit plugs rhat have square sockets.

~ SEE ALSO: Tap connectors 24

ST I Plumbing tools
LS
FILES Files are used for shaping and smoothing metal components and removing sharp edges. Still son wrench The adjustable toothed jaws of a Still son wrench are for gripping pipework. As force is applied, the jaws tighten on the work.

CLASSIFYING FILES
The working faces of a file are composed of parallel ridges, or teerh, sec ar about 70 degrees t o it; 'jdges. A fill 10 tlaj-iFicd according to the size and spacing o f its Teeth and whether it has one or two sets of teeth.

Smooth-jaw adjustable wren Eh This older-style wrench is ideal for gripping and manipulating chromed fittings because its large smooth jaws will nut damage the surface of [he metal.

Chain wrench A chain wrench does the same job as a Stillson wrench, but can be used on pipework and fittings with a very large diameter. Wrap the chain tightly round the work and engage it with the hook at the end of the wrench, then lever the handle towards the toothed jaw to apply turning force.

Single-cut tile

Dnuble-eut file A single-cut file has one set of teeth virtual Iv covering each of its faces. A double-cut file has a second set of identical teeth crossing the first at a 45-degree angle. Some files are single-cur on one side and double-cut on the other. The spacing of teeth relates directly to their size: the finer the teeth, the more closelv packed they arc. Degrees of coarseness are expressed as number of teeth per 25nun (1 in) - Use progressively finer files to remove marks left by coarser ones. Hie classification: Bastard file - Coarse grade (26 teeth per 25mm), used for initial shaping. Second-cut file - Medium grade [36 teeth per 25mm), used for preliminary smoothing. Smooth file - Fine grade (47 teeth per 25mm), used for final smoothing.

Strap wrench With a strap wrench you can disconnect chromed pipework without damaging its surface. Wrap the smooth leather or canvas strap round the pipe, pass its end through the slot in the head of the tool, and pull it tight. Levering on the handle rotates the pipe.

Flat file M II A flat file tapers from irs pointed tang to its tip, in both width and thickness. Both faces and both edges are toothed. Hand file Hand files are parallel-sided bur tapered in their thickness. Most of them have one smooth edge for filing up to a corner wirhour damaging it. Half-round file /^~'~'"~~**N\ i'his tool has one rounded faee for shaping inside curves. Round file o A round file is for shaping tight curves and enlarging holes. Square file Square files arc used for cutting narrow slots and smoothing the edges of small rectangular holes. Triangular file A Triangular files are designed for accurately shaping and smoothing undercut apertures of less than 90 degrees. Needle files A These are miniature versions of standard files and are all made in eyrra-fine grades. Needle files are used for precise work and to sharpen brace hits.

FILE SAFETY
Always fit a wooden or plastic handle oo the rang of a file before vou use it.

Plier wrench A plier wrench locks onto the work. It grips round stock or damaged nuts, and is often used as a small cramp.

CLEANING A FILE
Soft metal tends to clog file teeth. When a file stops cutting efficiently, brush along the teeth with a fine wire brush, then rub chalk on the file to help reduce clogging in future.

1 Adjusting the wrench

Z Releasing the wrench Using a plier wrench To close the jaws, squeeze the handles whde slowly turning the adjusting screw clockwise (t). Eventually the jaws will snap together, gripping the work securely. To release the tool's grip on the work, pull the release lever {2}.

2 Knock a handle tram the tang If an unprotected file catches on the work, then the tang could he driven inro rhe palm of your hand. Having fitted a handle, tap its end on a bench to tighten its grip (1). To remove a handle, hold rhe blade of the file in one hand and strike the ferrule away from you wirh a block of wood {2}.

Essential tools Plier wrench Second-cut and smooth flat files Second-cut and smooth hall-round files

78

i W SEE ALSO: Pipework 13-

Plumbing tools
FINISHING METAL Before painting or soldering metal, always make sure it is clean and rust-free. Buffing mop Metals can be brought lo a shine by hand, using a liquid metal polish and a soft cloth; but for a really high gloss, use a buffing mop in a bench-mounted power drill or gnndcr.

PLUMBIN

Using a file When using any file, keep il flat on the work and avoid rocking it during forward strokes. Hold it steady, with the fingers of one hand resting on its tip, and make slow firm strokes with the full length of the file. To avoid vibration, hold the work low in the jaws of a vice or clamp it between two battens.

Wire brush Use a steel-wire hand brush to clean rusty or corroded metal.

Reseating tool If the seat of a tap has become so worn that even fitting a new washer won't produce a perfect seal, use a reseating tool to grind the seat fiat. Using a buffing mop After applying a stick of buffing compound (a fine abrasive wilh wax) to the revolving mop, move the work from side to side against I he lower half, keeping any edges facing downwards. Remove the lap's headgear and jumper, then screw the cone of the reseating tool into the body of the tap. Turn rhe knuHcd adjuster to lower the cutter onto the worn scat, and then turn the tommy bar to rcgrind the metal.

Draw Tiling yon can give metal a smooth finish by draw filing. Wlh both hands, hold a smooth file al right angles to the work and slide the tool backwards and forwards along the surface. Finally, polish the workpiece with emery cloth wrapped round the file.

Wire wool Wire woo! is a mass of vety thin steel filaments. It is used 10 remove file marks and lo clean oxides and d i n from metals.

F.mery cloth and paper * A plumber needs a set of basic woodworking lools in order to lift Emery is a natural black gfit which, when backed with paper floorboards, notch joists for pipe runs, and attach pipe clips. or cloth, is ideal for polishing metals- There is a range of grades from coarse to fine. For the best finish, use pn>grcssivcly finer abrasives as the work proceeds.
v

WOODWORKING TOOLS

Essential 1 DO Is and materials Engineer's pliers Wire brush Wire wool Emery cloth and emeiy paper

PLIERS Pliers are for improving your grip on small component and for bending and shaping nieial rod and wire.

MAXIMUM LENGTHS FOR DOMESTIC CIRCUITS Engineer's pliers For genera I-pur pose work, bu> a sturdy pair of engineer's pliers. The toothed jaws have a curved section for gripping round stock and also have side cutters for cropping wire. TYPE OF CIRCUIT RING CIRCUIT RADIAL CIRCUIT Slip-joint or water pump pliers The spci.nl feature of dlp-i-lnt pliers is a movable pivot for enlarging the jaw spacing, t he extra-long handles give a good grip on pipes and other fittings. Use smooth-jaw pliers to grip chromed fittings. COOKER up to 13.5kW COOKER from13.Stol8kW Using emery cloth and paper To avoid rounding the crisp edges of a flat component, glue a sheet of emery paper lo a board and rub the metal mi the abrasive {If. To finish round stock or pipes, loop a strip of emery cloth over the tvark and pull alternately on each end (Zf. IMMERSION HEATER up to 3kW SHOWER tip ta 10.3kW SHOWER ftoml0.3 to lO.okW STORAGE HEATER up to 3.375kW STORAGE FAN HEATER up to GkW FIXED LIGHTING excluding switch drops 100 20 S O 2 Clean a pipe with an emery strip 2.5 2.5 4 4 6 2.5 10 10 2.5 4 1 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 2.5 1.5 4 4 1.5 1.5 1 1 15amp 30a mp 5amp 5amp 34m 32m 83m
126-11

t i

/*

to.

1 USING FUSES 30amp 20a mp 30a rep 30a m p 15amp 45a m p

I s a

/If t l u 1 Ii If J'Il
/ ss g o, 1 1 USING MCBs
32B m p

c C / 5 s O S

6Bm 37m 19m 19m 33m 46 m

68m 34m 21m 21m 27m 39m 46m 44m 34m 32m B3m 126m

-lili 32amp 32 amp 40a mp 16amp 45amp 50a m p IGamp 32a mp 6am p Samp

SEE ALSO: Replacing washers 10, Dismantling taps 33

79

Artificial ventilation
Severe e l e c t r i c s h o c k c a n m a k e a p e r s o n s t o p b r e a t h i n g . O n c e y o u have freed t h e m f r o m the e l e c t r i c i t y s u p p l y ( w i t h o u t g r a s p i n g the v i c t i m ' s b o d y d i r e c t l y see r i g h t ) , revive t h e m by m e a n s o f artificial ventilation.

DEALING WITH ELECTRIC SHOCK


If someone receives an electric shock and is still in contact w i t h irs source, t u r n off the current either by p u l l i n g out the p l u g or by switching off at the socket o r consumer unit. If this is not possible, don't take h o l d o f the person as the current may pass through you too. Pull the v i c t i m free w i t h a scarf or dry towel, o r k n o c k their hand free w i t h a piece of w o o d . A s a last resort, free the victim by t a k i n g hold o f their loose clothing - but without touching the body. D o n ' t attempt t o move anyone who has fallen as a result o f electric shock - except t o place them in the recovery position. Wrap them in a blanket o r coat to keep them w a r m until they can move. Once the person can move, treat their electrical b u m s by reducing the heat of the injury under slowly running c o l d water. T h e n apply a dry dressing and seek medical advice.

Clear the airway


First, clear the victim's airway. T o do this, loosen the clothing round the neck, chest and waist, make sure that the m o u t h is free o f food, and remove loose dentures.

Mouth-to-nose
If injuries ro the face make mouth-tomouth ventilation impossible, follow a similar procedure but keep the victim's m o u t h covered w i t h one hand a m i blow firmly into the nose (2).

2 The mouth-toll ose procedure Clear the mouth of tood or loose dentures. Lay the person on his o r her back anil carefully tilt the head back by raising the chin. This prevents the victim's tongue blocking the airway and may in itself be enough t o restart the person's breathing. If it doesn't succeed in d o i n g so quickly, fry more direct methods o f artificial ventilation.

Reviving a baby
If the victim is a baby o r small child, cover both the nose and the mouth at the same time with your o w n mouth and proceed as for moiith-to-moiith ventilation (see below, left), but breathe every three seconds.

Tip the head back to open the airway.

To give artificial ventilation lo a small chilli, cover the nose and mouth.

Isolating the victim If a person sustains an electric shock, turn off the supply of electricity immediately, either at the consumsr unit or at a socket (1). If this is not possible, pull the victim fiee with a dry towel, or knock their hand Iree ol the electrical equipment [21 with a piece ol wood or a broom.

Mouth-to-mouth
Keeping the victim's nostrils closed by p i n c h i n g t h e m between t h u m b a n d forefinger, cover the m o u t h with your o w n , m a k i n g a seal all a r o u n d (1). B l o w firmly and l o o k for signs o f the chest rising. Remove your lips and allow the chest to fall. Repeat this procedure, breathing r h y t h m i c a l l y i n t o the m o u t h every six seconds. After ten breaths, phone the emergency services. T h e n continue w i t h the a r t i f i c i a l ventilation till normal breathing resumes or expert help arrives t o take over.

Recovery position
O n c e breathing has started again, put the victim in the recovery position. Turn him o r her face down with the head turned sideways and tilted tip slightly. T h i s keeps the airway open and w i l l also prevent vomit being inhaled if the person is sick. Lift one leg out from the body and support the head by placing the person's left hand, palm d o w n , under his o r her cheek. Keep rhc casualty w a r m with blankets until help arrives.

Place the victim on his or Her side with the bead turned sideways and one teg out from the body.

* ~ SEE ALSO: Bathmom safety 69

Glossary
Adaptor A device that LS used to connect more than one appliance to a socket outlet. Airlock A blockage in a pipe caused by a trapped bubble of air. Appliance A functional piece o f e q u i p m e n t connected to the p l u m b i n g - a basin, sink, bath ere. Back-si p h i mage T h e s i p h o n i n g of part of a p l u m b i n g system caused by the failure of mains pressure. Balanced flue A d u c t i n g system which a l l o w s a heating appliance, such as a boiler, to draw' fresh air f r o m , and discharge gases t o , the outside of a b u i l d i n g . Bore 1 lollow p.ii t of a pipe in-11JJ>,_-_ Burr Rough raised edge left o n a metal workpiece after c u t t i n g or filing. Cap-nut T h e nut used to tighten a fitting onto pipework. Cesspool A covered or buried t a n k for the c o l l e c t i o n and storage of seage. Chase T h e groove cut in masonry to accept a pipe o r cable. Or To cut such grooves. C i r c u i t breaker A special switch installed in a c o n s u m e r unit to protect an i n d i v i d u a l circuit. Should a fault occur, the circuit breaker w i l l switch off automatically. Consumer unit A box, situated near the meter, which contains the fuses of M C B s protecting all the circuits. It also houses the m a i n i s o l a t i n g switch that cuts the power to the whole b u i l d i n g . Fuse A protective device c o n t a i n i n g a thin wire that is designed to melt at a given temperature caused by an excess flow of current o n a circuit. Gully T h e o p e n end of a drainagesystem at g r o u n d level, c o n t a i n i n g a water-filled trap. Head T h e height of the surface of water above a specific p o i n t - used as a measurement of pressure; for e x a m p l e , a head of 2 m . H o p p e r head T h e funnel-shaped end of a drainage pipe that receives the discharge f r o m other waste pi pes. I m m e r s i o n beater A n electrical element designed to heat water in a storage cylinder. O v e r f l o w pipe A drainage pipe designed to discharge water w h i c h has risen above its intended level w i t h i n a cistern. Cistern A water-storage t a n k such as found in the roof of a house. D r a i n cock T a p f r o m which a p l u m b i n g system o r single appliance is d r a i n e d . Economy 7 A n Electricity C o m p a n y Scheme which a l l o w s you to charge storage heaters and heat water at less than h a l f the generalpurpose rate. bloat valve A water inlet which is closed by the action of a floatoperated a r m when the water in a cistern reaches the required level. Earth A c o n n e c t i o n between an electrical c i r c u i t a n d the earth (ground). ITFE Polytetrafluorethylenc - used to make tape for sealing threaded p l u m b i n g fittings. Rising main T h e pipe w h i c h supplies water under m a i n s pressure, usually to a storage cistern in the roof. Septic t a n k A sewage-storage t a n k , s i m i l a r to a cesspool, but the waste is treated to render it harmless before it is discharged u n d e r g r o u n d o r into a local waterway. Shoe T h e c o m p o n e n t f o r m i n g the lower end of a vertical drainage pipe and w h i c h t h r o w s water clear of the w a l l i n t o an o p e n gully. Stopcock Valve w h i c h closes a pipe to present the passage of water. Storage heater A space-heating device that stores heat generated by cheap nightrate electricity, then releases it d u r i n g the f o l l o w i n g day. Supplementary bonding T h e c o n n e c t i n g to earth of exposed metal appliances and pipework within a bathroom or kitchen. T h c r mostat A device w h i c h m a i n t a i n s a heating system at a constant temperature. Trap A bent section of p i p e w o r k , c o n t a i n i n g s t a n d i n g water CO prevent the passage of n o x i o u s sewer gases. Water closet - W C A lavatory flushed by water. Water h a m m e r V i b r a t i o n caused by fluctuating water pressure w i t h i n a p l u m b i n g system. W i r i n g Regulations A code of professional practice laid d o w n by the I n s t i t u t i o n of Electrical F.nginners.

Index
Page numbers in italics refer to photographs and illustrations. buffing mop 79; 79 burr 81 Bylaw 30 kit 49 replacement 13; 3 direct-fired water heaters 52 direct systems (plumbing) 67 dishwasher drainage 47; 47 installing 46; 46 drainage systems 6, 7 drain-cleaning equipment 74; 74 drain cock 20 draining plumbing system S drain rods 18,74; IS, 74 drains responsibility 15 rodding 18.74; IK. 74 drills 76
c 0

gas-fired boilers 54; 4 maintenance 60 servicing schemes 60 gate valve S, 20 maintenance 11 gland nut 62; 62 gland packing II; II gravity-fed shower 41 gully IS, 17,81; 17

ABS (plastic) 26 adaptors metal pipe 20; 20 plastic pipe 24; 24 adjustable cutler 49; 49 air luck caring 9 air separator 61 anti-siphon devices 47 appliance 81 artificial ventilation 80 auger drain 74; 74 use of 17 W C 74; 17, 74 capillary joints 20; 20 cap-nut 20, 81 east-iron pipes 19 central heating boilers see boilers control valves 65; 65 controls 57; 57 corrosion inhibitor 59 draioing and filling 59; one-pipe systems 53 problems 58 pumps 64; 64 system fault finder 58 wet 53 centre punch 74; 74 ceramic-disc tap .12; 2 cesspool 18; 18 chain-link cutter 75; 75 chase 81 circuits 79 circuit breaker 81 circulating pump 64 cisterns 81

H
hacksaw 74-5; 74, 75 head (water) 81 heaters bathroom 71 fan-assisted 56 I oca tiog 56 storage 81 wiring 71 hole saw 49 hopper head 17, 81 hose clips 8 hot-air gun 77; 77 ho I-water cylinder draining 8 replacing 50 hot-water systems 50-3; 51, 53 hydraulic pump 16.74; (6, 7j

B
back-siphonage 47 balanced Sue 81 basin fixing 33-4 removing 33 types 31 bathroom heaters 71 bathrooms, safety in 6 baths access to 35 fittings 36 installing 36 plumbing 16; 36 removing 36 renovating enamel 35 supporting plastic 35 types 3J bath/shower mixer 38; 3fi Belmoot valve 62 bending spring 23, 76; 23 bend' metal 20; 20 plastic 24; 24 bib tap 20 replacing washer 10 bidet installing 43; 43 types 4.1; 43 bleed valve 61 blind riveier 77; 77 boilers maintenance (50 servicing schemes 60 types 54 ventilating 54 bonding, supplementary 69-70 bore 81 bottle trap 16 branch pipe clearing 16 installing 46 bra zing 77

earth bonding 6 Economy 7 scheme 73 elbows metal 20; 20 plastic 24; 24 Electrical Regulations 6 electric-shock treatment 80; no electric shower 41 electro chemical action 19 emergency repairs 9 emery cloth 79 emery paper 79 end-feed joints 21; 21 cpoxy puny (for repairs) 9 expansion, allowing for 27

cold-water srorage 8, 49 installing 49; 49 WC28 cold chisel 75; 75 cold-water cistern, draining 8 compression joints making 22; 22 metal 20; 20 plastic 25; 25 connections, making copper to lead 23; 23 copper to steel 21 plastic to metal Z5; 25 steel to plastic 22; 22 waste to soil pipe 34; 14 connecrors metal 20; 20 plastic 24; 24 consumer unit 68, 81 control valve 65; 6* convectors 56 copper pipes 19 corner basin .11 corrosion inhibitor 59-60 counter-top basio 31; U c l ' V C (plastic) 24 Croydon-parrem valve II cylinder, hot water 50-1; 50, 51

I
IEF. Regulations see Wiring Regulations immersion heater 72-3,81; 72,73 indirect systems (plumbingl 6: 7 inspection chamber 15; 15 integral-ring joints 21; 21 interceptor trap 15 clearing 18; 18 inverted pipe loop 59; 59 iron pipes 19; 19

fault finder, heating system 58 files 78; 78 fittings metal 20; 20 plastic 24; 24 flanges side entry 42; 42 Surrey 42; 42 flap valve, replacing 12; 12 float-arm adjustment 14; 14 float replacement 14 float valve 81; 13 changing 14 closing 8 renovating 13, 14 types 13 flood prevention 47 flux soldering 76 fro7.cn pipes, thawing 9; 9 fuse 81 fused connection units 72; 72

joints

capillary 20; 20 compression 20, 22, 6; 20, 22, 26 dismantling 25 metal 20; 20 plastic 24-6; 24 push-fit 25-6; 25,26 soldered 21; 21

kitchen laps 44; 44

desealiog 59-60 diaphragm valves 13 adjustment 14

galvanized steel pipes 19; 19 garden tap 48; 4ft gas torch 21,77; 21, 77

lead pipes 19, 23; 19 lever, patching 9; 9 lever-head lap 32; 32

M
main switch equipment marking tools 74 measuring tools 74 metal bender) 76 metal-eutiing tools 74, 75 miniature valve 8: X miser laps 11,32; 32 M u P V C (plastic) 26

programmers 57; 57 pump-assisted shower 39 pump servicing 64 push-fit joints 25-7; 26, 27

small-bore waste system 30; 30 snips 75; 75 soil pipe cutting 29; 29 unblocking 17; 17 soil waste 34 solar heating 52; 52 soldering 76-7; 76, 77 joints 21 solid-fuel boilers 54; 54 maintenance 60 tOrrent-weld joints 27; 27 spanners 77; 77 split pipes 9 spraybeads 39 spring dividers 74; 74 stainless-steel pipes 19; l y stopcock 11, 81; 24 storage heaters 68, 81 storage tanks 49 Switched coooection unit 72; 72

V
valves adding extra 8 appliance 46 bleed 61 leaking 62 radiaror 62 self-bore 46 types 8 zone control 57; 57 vented hot-water cylinder 50; SO vice, engineers' 75; 75

R
radiators 55; 55 bleeding filj 61 mounting 63; 63 positioning 56 removing 61; 61 replacing 63 radiator valve 62; 62 recessed basin 31; 31 recovery position 80 repairs, emergency 9 reseating tool 79; 79 re verse-pressure tap 10 rim-supply bidet 43; 43 rising main 81 rising-spindle tap 32; 32 riveter 77; 77 rodding points IS room heaters 56 roomstats see room thermostats room thermostats 57; 57 round baths 35 rule, steel 74; 74

N
nailed pipes 9 noisy cistern, curing 14 non-rising spindle tap 32; 32

w
W C see water closet wall-hung hasin 31; 31 wash basin see basin washdowo pan 28, 79; 79 washer, replacing 10, 13; 10, 13 washing machines 46-7; 46,47 waste-disposal units 45; 45 waste pipes, cleansing 16; 16 plastic 26 waste system 6 small-bore 30; 30 water closet 81 water-closet auger 17, 74; 17, 74 water-closet cistero 8, 12-14; 12, 13,14 water-closet pan 28; 28 unblocking 17; 17 water-closet, replacing 28 water-closet suile 28-30; 2*, 30 installing 30; 30 water hammer 6,14, 81 water heater, instantaneous 52; 52 water heating, night rate 73 Water Regulations 6 water softeners 48 weeping joints, repairing 21, 22, 25, 27; 25,27 sver ceniraI-heating system 53; 53 svire brush 79; 79 wire wool 79 Wiring Regulations 6, 39, 69, 81 woodworking tools 79 wrenches 78; 78

0
oil-fired boilers maintenance 60 servicing schemes 6U types 54 olive 20; 22 O-ring seal 11; U overflow' pipe 81 overflow, preventing 47; 47 over-rim supply bidet 43; 43

T
tanks 49 storage 49 plumbing 49 laok cutter 49; 49 lapconoector 24 taps draining 8 fitting basin 33 fittiog bath 36 kitchen 44; 44 mechanisms 32; 32 repairing 10 replacing 33 types 10, 32; 32 tees metal 20; 20 plastic 24; 24 thawing frozen pipes 9; 9 thermal-norc cylinder 37,51; 37,51 thermostatic mixer 38 thermostatic radiator valve 57; 57 thermostats 57, 81 timer 57 tins nips 77 tool kit 74 traps 81 clearing 16 compression joints 26; 26 shallow 37; 37 types 16; 16 try square 74; 74 tube benders 76; 76 tube cutter 21, 75; 21, 75 tubular trap 16; 16 two-pipe drainage system 15; 15

P
PB (plastic) 24 PP (plastic) 26 PTFE tape 11, 22, 81 PVC (plastic) 21 pan connector 29; 29 pedestal basin 31; 31 pillar tap 10; 10 pipe bender 23, 76; 23 pipe cutting 21; 21 pipe ioints 20; 20 pipe runs concealing 31; 51 pipes bending 23; 23 draining 8 metal 19; 19 plastic 24, 26; 24, 26 sizes 19 plastic pipes bending 24 joining 25, 27 joints and fittings 25-7 plastics, types of 24, 26 pliers 79; 79 plumbing, concealing 31, 40 Plumbing Regulations 6 plumbiog system draining 9 refilling 9 plunger 16, 74; 16, 74 Ports mouth-pat tern valve 13; 13 power showers 39 installing 42; 42

s
safety, bathroom 69 saws 74-7; 74, 75 .scriber 74; 74 septic tank 18,81; 18 service pipe 81 shaver socket 71; 71 sheet-metal cutter 75; 75 shower computer-coo trolled 39; 39 drainage 37 enclosing 40-1; 40, 41 installing 41-2; 41,42 instantaneous 38, 41; 38, 41 selecting 37 types 37 water requirements 37 wiring 71; 71 shower cubicle 40, 41 shower miser decks 32 shower mixers 38; 38 shower trays 40; 41 shrouded-head tap 10; 0 single-stack drainage system 15; /5 sink accessories 44; 44 clearing 16 installing 45; 45 types 44; 44 sink trap 26 siphonic pan 28 skirting coovector 56; 56 slip coupling 65; 65

Y
yard gully 17; 17

u
undcrlluor heating 66 installing 67 unvemed cylinders 51; 5/

tone control valve 57; 57 (ones, bathroom 70

omplete Plumbing & Central Heating

contains the most detailed, comprehensive and up-to-date advice available on home plumbing and central heating.
on has been extensively rewritten to include information on all new products, techniques and regulations.
in

Whether you're fixing a leaking tap or installing an entire central heating system, this book contains all the information you need to get the job done safely and with the minimum of fuss.

Contents include: >AIRS TAPS, SINKS AND KITCHEN APPLIANCES TOILETS, BATHS AND SHOWERS BOILERS AND RADIATORS IDENTIFYING FAULTS AND MAINTENANCE SAFETY TIPS TOOLS FOR THE JOB
With over 400 illustrations and photographs, and clear
step-by-step instructions, Collins Complete Plumbing

& Central Heating will help turn your good intentions into a job well done.

UK 8.99"

ISBN

0-00-7161.41-6

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