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ijil;
Cr
w4llachian Embroidery
Published By
7
THEPRI5CILLAPUBLISniN6(?
pi;
UbHARlrofOJ^t,^ES3
MAV
14
1908
JWSU
1
XXO, ..
OOPY
8.
xA^
^'^
1^
S''
I30J
LESSONS IN
81aUacf)ian Cmijroibcrp
WITH
DESIGNS
AND DETAILS OF
STITCHES
THE
demand for Wallachian emprompted us in compiling this lesson book on the subject. The simplicity
increasing
broider}' has
and effectiveness of the work, together with its inexpensiveness and the ease with which it may be learned and
accomplished even by amateur needleworkers, are the greatest factors in its [3 o p u 1 a r i t y
Wallachian embroidery,
centre and work the buttonhole-stitch from the centre out as illustrated. The hole may be large enough to show when the figure is complete, or it may fill up, but in either case it prevents the overlapping of the stitches. The leaves are done with a slanting- stitch from the vein outward, always keeping the purl on the edge. In the oval leaves where the ends round, it is
takes
its
its
wh ch name
i
chia,
was
Wallaorigi-
with heavy thread of various colors, the designs being stiffly conterial
punch a small hole at the end of the vein so that the threads will not overlap. It is not always necessary to have both sides of a figure buttonholed,
safer to
as
is
illustrated in
ventional.
present
The adaptain
tions of this
show
it
work any
designs.
oVer- a n d - o V e r covers are made stitch), or in chainDetails of Wallachian Stitches to the sheer fabstitch, and if a rics for infants' narrow band too wear, and, of course, the thread employed must wide for outlining comes into the design it may correspond with the material on which the embroidbe effectively carried out in the dovetail buttonery is done. Often the work is padded and raised holing, which is shown in the lower right corner and many new and graceful molifs introduced. of the cut. The stitches of this detail are purThe keynote of Wallachian embroidery, its prin- posely made far apart so as to show the principle cipal characterizing feature, is the simple buttonclearly, but in the real work they should lie close hole-stitch. This and one or two other simple together and fill the space completely. To do stitches are all that is necessary for one to know buttonhole down one side, taking stitches it, to be able to do the embroidery, and by studying nearly across the space and go back on the oppothe details of stitches on this page the principles site side, taking stitches the same length and of the work are easily understood. letting them interlace with the first. This solid In making the circles, first punch a hole in the effect is shown on page 13.
Copyright, 190S, by
The
Priscilla Publishing
S. Patent Oftice
Dress Accessories
WALLACHIAN
the opposite page.
embroidery
is
particularly
is
harmonize
is
may
green
not the
at liberty to
as
if
worked
may
As
for
the
work
itself,
now when
stitches, as
described on the
Every one who embroiders knows of the enduring qualities of the best grades of embroidery
silk,
entirely
flat
or padded
if
desired,
and how that even the best must be laundered carefully, just as any delicate colored fabrics must
be treated b
o d e
r
if
but
knows
of the
The
is
cottons
which are
equ ally
as
silk,
collar
put
on a straight
band, and to
as
satisfactory
not only in their
do
a
this
cut
strip
of
working
qualities, but
in
and
inches
two
wide,
the dura-
bility of their
hold
the
colors.
cotton
If
the stranded
is
emthe
of
is
the
ployed,
next
threads
may
sev-
the
worker,
let it
be used
and
bit
be
eral together
or singly, ac-
fuller
cording
be
filled
to
Cotton.
I
the space to In
3=
3346
Silk.
1302 - 311
1
than
;
the
Take
not
312; 3
312i'2
band.
a
seam
is
filo floss,
and any
obtained
of
may be
complete.
on this page, which is almost full size, not only shows the stitchery very distinctly, but by the numbering the color scheme is indicated This particular section is taken from the coat set, and the colors suggested are three
detail of the mntif
The
blond or maline, letting the shirrings coincide with the wires of the frame, line the crown and put in a
shades of green
stood, this
bandeau
if
desired.
it
will
fit
As
is
readily under-
and
belts also,
scheme may be carried out in the hat and the linen may be either white
embroidered crown
and
bow
of ribbon or net.
An
edging of lace
may
finish
An
advantage
in
Two
Wallachian Waists
EVEN Wallachian
suitable size to
shirt-waists
worlv,
medium-weight
done in the popular and these may be on the linen which is commonly
are
cuffs fastened
The
collar
is
a straight turn-
down affair, to be lined, mounted on a foundation like our brothers' collars, and worn with a bow or tie. As is seen from the illustration, this pattern may
be used on a waist that opens in the back by simply stamping the two parts close enough together in the
front, or
The motif
stitches used
and the method of working the flowers. done as described on the first page, with a slanting buttonhole-stitch from the middle outward, taking care that the stitches are even and
by introducing a
strip of insertion
down
The
petals are
is
to carry
in
white or
as for
In the rounding
hole with the
shadow
petals
it
is
better to
make
a small
they
stiletto at the
end
of the
mid-vein where so
many
As
book
the
inside
there was no
room
at the
beginning of the
while
petals
in
the
for a description of
pointed
is
the vein
suit
shown on
cover,
the
per-
carried
practically to
front
a
the
end,
and
this
obvi-
haps
The stems
outline,
are in
over-
satin
the
discussed.
andover
stitch,
and the
in the
This
usual
is
quite
an
un-
rings which
come
design
for
Walit
lachian embroidery, as
made
page which
first
as
I.
described
on
and
tendrils.
The grapes
and
way,
arranged
in clusters
worked
Detail of Waists on page 4
turned
effect.
in the usual
The
other to
simulate
is
the
to
is
be made up
to fasten in the
few yoke depth tucks may be added at each side next the sleeves, and thus give the desired fulness. The back may be tucked to suit the fancy of the
of such a width that a
and stems are in outline, and at each place where these branch out a series of dots appear and these are worked in the flat satin-stitch. The suit may be of white, blue, tan, pink, or green linen, embroidered in the same color or white, or any one
tendrils
color
may be
cuffs,
finis
suit is the
em-
ished with
the
band
curved stock
to fasten at the
pins.
bit of
ruching
may be basted
in the neck, or a
to the waist
more work, the difference in beauty more than compensates for all the extra
it,
collar
both
after
a
time consumed.
intended to be
style,
made
shadow
the regulation
shirt-waist
closing
under
box
plait in front,
and
allows for
The
sleeves
most satisfying
results.
Infants'
Wear
Lesson on
Infants'
Wear
at the
ALTHOUGH
lachian
we have come to think of Walwork as being a bold embroidery on heavy materials, and to associate it
less with houseliold linens, this beautiful
is
sewed up
in
more or
made
rolled
form of needlework
class of articles.
rials are used,
it
one of several ways. The edges may be and then joined with the lattice-stitch, or
If
practically the
same
effect
may be obtained
as
is
here shown, by
seaming
dainty apparel as
ery and
quickly accomplished.
which comes for such purposes; or again, there may be a French seam, or the rough edges bound
with a bias
strip.
The design on
little
The
to the
the ends
and
page of
narrowly
hemmed on
The
latter are
buttonholing or purling on
baby
is
pins.
The
latter plan
one side only, and all the edges of the garments are
buttonholed
cut out.
in
scallops,
be laundered more
A
its
around the
to
The
page
baby's
unit given
on
this
cap
adds
it
greatly
is
taken
pillow
from the
and shows
makes
more becoming
in the infant's
in detail exactly
how
the
stitches run
No article
wardrobe
ing and
is
purl
is
indi-
more appeal, more suggestive of babyhood than the tiny shoes, and they are very simple and easy to make.
After
finishing
the
is
em-
the
broidery, which
similar
to that
siioe
is
-3326;
= 335
Silk.
=542;
= 543
sewed up
in the to
back
sole
and joined
the
bottom are
wrong side out, then turned, and the shoe is complete. As in the case of the cap, there are several ways of joining the seams.
Some workers
and
sole,
all
around, top
page.
slits
soft
shade of tan
is
scalloped edge.
The
and whip together, some hem the edges and whip together, while others make French seams, and still others cover the seams with narrow strips of linen. Any one of these methods is good provided the shape of the shoe is retained and there is no hard seam to hurt the baby's foot. The bib hardly needs a word of explanation as it
cut out
is
so simple in construction,
it is
.\fter
embroidering
The
is
pillow
is
the design
hemmed by
riage or cart,
As may be seen
are suitable for
As
the cap,
after
it
is
Pillow and
Towel Ends
L esson
A
site
obtained
of Wallachian work as shown on the pillow and towel ends on the oppo-
Care should be taken to have these points sharp and regular and to keep the stitches flat.
apex.
The stems
outline, but
are
in
shown
in
the
detail
as being
in
page.
being widely
desired,
this
it
is
and
and
stems wind
lines.
may be
satin-stitch, or,
around
unconventional graceful
as was suggested
on the
this
first
shows that the three petals next the stem are complete while those above are partially hidden, giving the effect of one row being behind
detail
The
may be used
with
excelin
and
the other.
To make
let
this
figure,
begin with
the
Among
shown,
the
have
at least
enough
to hide the
first
looseends of the
the
guest
chamber, and
that
now
so
per-
colors
are
much used
it is
fectly correct to
have
are worked in
ered
that
in
any color
call
The
stems
leaves
are
in
and two
green
itself
the scheme of
the
for.
room may
shades of
light
from
a
light
yellow to orange,
glowing,
effect
that the
niotif is
used
same and
sunshiny
which
is
yet
are
the
quite
treatments
different.
very pleas-
ing on a pillow-top.
1=3348;
1=
311;
= 3347; 2= 312;
2
= 743; = 647;
is
= 742;
= 741
4=648; 5=649
other
numbering,
these
end
shade of orange, which is not indicated on the detail, is used for the spots which are scattered here and there over the design.
The
pattern
is
worked as shown on page i, but the three oval forms which appear in each corner
circles are
The
truly
Instead of a
more appropriate
it
is a short line and the worked from this to the outer edge, keeping the stitches the same length throughout. While the leaves are of the same construction as those shown on the page of stitches at the begin-
In the
this is
first
design there
in
worked in the Wallachian stitch with the buttonholed edge on one side carrying the spirit of the embroidery through the
space for ah
initial
and
entire design.
10
FOR
light
ally
the edge.
towards the centre and shaded to dark next The scalloped edge is not indicated on
it is
true needleworker
everything had to be white; but now every is glad that color has returned
it
worked
in
a soft light
to favor, for
is
much more
is
interesting than
all-
shade of tan which blends beautifully with the same color of linen and with the pinks and greens,
greater
and individuality in the handling of the beautiful wash silks and cottons that are now on the market, and which are
being used in
all
and also looks well on white. The centrepiece, besides being appropriate to use on the dining-table, is especially suitable for a stand, or
if
in
colored linen
it
makes
kinds of needlework.
The round
trepiece
cen-
on
page
the
is
way
opposite
18
72
inches long,
may
be used as a table
runner, for a side-
ery
all
in
white
as illustrated, or
in the colors sug-
board
scarf, or
on
the ciiiffonier or
gested
tail
in
the de-
bureau
in
the
the
on
this page.
is
The
design
sim-
chamber. Although
colors
suggested
are the
same as
one
scribed
first
on
the
page,
the
may
out
exercise her
circles
and round-
taste in carrying
the
design,
col-
centre
out,
with
the
The
color
1=3348; 2=3347; 3 = 3346; 4 = 3326; 5 = 335; 6 = 309 = 311; 2=312; 3 = 312V2: 4=542; 5 = 543; 6 = 544
1
pinks,
heavy Cluny
for the work.
lace,
The
figures
2,
and
4, 5,
indicate
indi-
This
lace,
is
is
and 6
instance,
is
to be
medium
shades, so
will
after
is
finished
piece
one
is
use each
shade.
As
is
is
seen,
the
4,
circle
which
numbered
the lightest
edge is rolled and the lace whipped on. This leaves a margin of linen between the scallops
lops, the
circles
shown
if
linen,
Scarf and
Lunch Cloth
BECAUSE
embroider}',
as
much
in
place on hem-
knows the wearing qualities of hemstitched edges as compared with buttonlioling. The hemstitched scarf, No. 1317, is in three sizes, 18 inches wide, and 45, 54, and 72 inches The hemstitching is all finished before the long. pattern is stamped on the linen, or else how could
one ever be certain that the threads would run just right for the
design
?
and the bands in the darkest. All the figures are worked like the one illustrated, so the worker can readily place her colors on the pattern by studying Of course, in these directions and the diagram. place of these blues, any other four shades of
color
mav be
substituted, putting
the
different
tiie
pink, or
The
lunch-cloth No. 13 18
in
is
and comes
tlivee
sizes,
24,
and 36 inches
This, like the
square.
scarf,
must be hembefore
is
The
detail
on
this
stitched
the
pattern
stamped,
size
worked with
are
described on the
page.
stamped, ready
embroider.
to
The
cir-
As
is
this
sin-
cles
hemstitching
gle,
an additional
of
ures
are
made
the
with
touch
piece
hand-work
to the
the
slanting
button-
may be added
stitching,
hole-stitch,
ends
the
band
is
in
few more
thus widen
stitched
threads
the hem-
dovetail buttonholing
ing
The
pletely.
As has been
Detail of Scarf
Cotton.
Silk.
and
so
add
to
the
1=3325;
1
290; 2
second row
and
letting
effective
of stitches the same length as the first, them alternate. This makes a regular, bit of work and adds to the stability of
Exactly the same methods are used in working the lunch-cloth as are suggested above for the scarf, and the same color scheme is recommended, so by careful study of the diagram the
placing of colors liecomes a simple matter,
the design.
The
is
pattern of
tlie
smallest cloth
is
suitable for
This piece
shown
of
as
worked
in
white, but
it
a pillow top,
detail tells
how
is
to be
conservative
the
choice
of
colors
for
table
Copenhagen
blue, wliich
one
article,
in
when
it
comes
to pillows to be
is
used
perhaps
sible.
a wider choice
The groups
of circles
which
fill
and almost any combination is permisEven in this conventional design, quiteanumber of different effects may be obtained by varying the treatment of the stitches and the color scheme.
of colors,
Novelties in Wallachian
Work
14
Lesson on Novelties
FOR
it is
ornamenting little fancy novelties such as shown on page 14, Wallachian embroidery is eminently suitable, not only because
are
effective
also
because
and appropriate for such things, but may be so quickly done and is it
Besides the embroidery, a bit of net inexpensive. has been introduced into these designs which partially changes the character of the work and adds
to its daintiness.
collars which are being worn by women as well as men, almost universally the collar-bag No. 1320 is perhaps as simple and serviceable a model as has ever been invented.
For the
stiff
tailored
The
It is
detail,
which
at regular intervals,
in
and
this
embroidery may be
color as the linen.
is
method
the
of the
basted over
inches
high
circle
pattern, and, as
the design
A
cut
circle
of
size
cardboard
this
side with
linen.
is
basted
in
When
this is
finished, use
then
the
upper part
sharp scissors and carefully cut the net from around the
JV**'' *".?
^ ft'* ^ O " -^ %*
embroidery
the figure.
and
the
linen
bag is held with the wrong side out and sewed to the bottom around the
edge, joining the ends with
a narrow felled
seam when
is
The
leaf-like
forms
in the
the circumference
made.
with
a lining
detail are
Cover
the
bottom
slanting buttonhole-stitch, as
circle of linen or
some
described on page
and the
hem
the
top
and
insert
ribbon
the
outer
The
detail illustration
and
Detail of Pincushion No. 1321
Cotton.
Silk.
is
worked
in
the
same
it is
made
2 in-
way.
Any one
color
may be
and
3348; 2
31]
;
= 3347;
edge.
3326
542
2=
312; 3
and
light
pink.
is
The
in
buttonholed edge
with white.
After
the
after
embroidery
the
is
finished,
the
run are
made
bag
is
made
it
order
of
the
of
collar-bag,
except that
is
is
gathered instead
plain
being put
which are sewed together with a narrow French seam. The work is accomplished after the
itself
must be lined
the net.
is
consists of two
ornamented as shown and lined with white. A color may be used under the net and the ribbon
must match
IS
this.
durability
it
is
necessary
the
MAY 14 1908
Collarette
and Cuffs
in
Wallachian Cut
Work
For
16
AND MATERIALS
Cover I>csigu. Centrepiece. Perforated pntteru, 'JO X 'io inches, 33 ceuts. tftaiiipei on white, hlue, or tan linen, nit cents. Colored cotton lor working, t>6 cents; colWhite cotton for working, oreil silk for Working, $I.(KJ. 60 cents; white &ilk for working, 90 cents.
Perforated pattern, 65 cents. Stani])eii onSyartls wliitr, blue, pink, Uin, or green linen, or on white Hnoii lawn, $2.HJ; on 3 yards white cotton lawn, $1.75. Coloiecl (r wliite cotton for working, 45 cents. Colored or white silk for working, 7.5 cents.
pattern, 2*4 inches wide Colored orwhite cotton for working, 15 cents; colored or white silk for working, 25 cents. pattern, IS
x IS inches,
JVo.
I301.
Waist.
Stumped on linen, 45 cents. Colored cotton lor working, 45 cents; colored silk for working. 75 cents. White cotton I\)r working. u6ccnl.-^ white silk for working, (io cents.
I'crtorated pattern <t ccnircpiece. 22x22 inches, to match lihove, -10 cents, stamped <n linen, 60 cents. Coloreti cot ton for working, 50 cents; colored silk for working, IH) cents. White cotton for working, 45 cents; white silk for working. "Scents. Perforated pattern of centrepiece. 3<> x 30 inches. to match above. 65 cents. Stamju'd on linen, HO cents. Colored cotton for working, 60 cents; colored silk for working. $1.1.5. White cotton for working, 50 cents; white silk
for
Kkont
I'ANKL. Perforated pattern, 60 cents. Colored orwhite cuttou \"V working,20 cents. Coloi-ed orwhite silk forworking AO ciiuts.
SIDE PANEf..
Perforated pattern, 26 cents. Colored or white cotton ft)r working one panel^lO cents. Colored or white silk for working one panel, 20 cents.
working
$1.00.
No.
iiesigu, 40 cents.
."Vo.
pattern, 40 cents.
St:ninu-<1
cents.
40 ceuls; r-olorcd .silk for working, 7U cents. White cott-.n for working, 35 cents; white .silk for working, 60 cents.
Xo. 1343.
Hat. Perforated pattern. 40 cents. Stampi-d on linen or lini-n lawn, TO'.cents on cotton lawn, 50 cents. ColColored or ored or white cotton for working, 25 cents. white silk for working, 50 tents.
;
Perforated pattern, 18 x 45 inches, *2 Stamped on linen, ^5 cents. Colored cotworking, 65 cents; coloreti silk for working, $1.25. ton for White cotton for working, 50 cents; white silk for workPerforated pattern, 18 .x 54 inches, i, design, ing, $1.15. Stamped on linen, $1.10. Colored cotton lor 45 cents. working, G5cents; colored silk for working, $1.25. White cotton for working, ."JO cents; white silk for working, :51.15. Perforated pattern, Is x 72 inches, X design. :>() cents. Stamped on linen, $1.50. ( olored cotton for work White cotton ing, 0.') cents; colored silk for working, $1.90. for wi>rking, OUcents; white silk for working, $1.75.
l.tlO.
Scarf.
Wo. i;t04.
Belt.
l*erforated pattern,
*J0
cents.
Stamped on
l;neh, 25 cents; on cotton lawn, 15 cents. Colored orwhite Colored or white silk for cotton for working, 15 cents. working, 25 cents.
^^ design, 50 cents.
scarf,
18x45 inches.
No.
l:tO,'%.
'<;5
linen,
cotton
Belt. Perforated pattern, 20 cents. Stamped on cents; on cotton lawn, 15 rents. Colored or while Colore<i or white silk for
.Shirt-tvaist.
TVo.
1300.
Colored cotton for working. fH) cents; coloreti silk for working. $1.20. White cotton forwork ing, 50 cents; white silk for woiking, $1.10. Stamped on white linen hemstitched scarf, 18 X 54 in<Mies, $1.25. Colored cotton for working, 65 White cotton for cents; colored silk for working, $1.25. working, 50 cents; white silk for working. 81.15, Stamped on white linen hemstitched scarf, 18x72 inches, $1..'>0. Colored cotton for working, 70 cents; colored silk for working, $1.40, White cotton for working, 60 cents; white silk for working. $1.25.
No. 131S.
Wo, 1307.
cents.
whiii.-
linen lawn. $2..^o'; on 2V^ yards of white cotton lawu, $1.60. Colored or white cotton for working, 35 cents. Perforated pattern of one skirt t>anel to match waiet, 60 cents. Cotton for working, 20 cents.
No. 1308.
Baby*s Cap. 12, 14, and 16 inch face measure. Perforated pattern, 25 cents. Stamped on linen or linen lawn, .35 cents; on cotton lawn, 26 cents. White cotton for working, 10 cents; white silk for working, 25 cents.
Perforated pattern, 16 cents. Stampcil on linen. 25 cents; on silk-warp Ilannel, 35 cents. White cotton for working. 5 cents; white silk for working.
15 cents.
Centrepiece, Perforated pattern. IS x ISfncbes, Stamped on white linen hemstitched square. Coloreti colion for working. -10 imdies, 85 cents. 24x24 cents; cohiretl silk for working, 70 ccnt. White cotton for Perwovkin'j;, 25 cents; white silk for working, 60 ceuls. forated pattern, 24 X 24 inches, 45 cents. Stamped on while linen hemstitched square. 30x30 inches, $1.00. Colored cotton for working, 60 cents; colored silk for working, 90 cents. White cotton for working, 4<' cents; white silk lor working, 75 cents. Perforated pattern. 30 x :10 inches. 60 cents. Stamped on white linen hemstitched square. .36 x 36 inches, $1.25. Colored cotton for working, 65 cents; cohreil White cotton for working, 45 silk for working, 95 cents. cents; white silk for working. 85 cents.
35 cents.
No,13lO.
No, l.tOO.
Baby's Shoe.
Hand Bag. Perforated pattern, 15 cents. Stamped on white or colored linen, with net, 35 cents. Colored or white cotton for working, 10 cents colored or white silk for
;
working, 20 cents.
IVo. 1310. Bib. Perforated pattern, 15 cents; linen lawn, 20 cents; on cotton lawn, 15 cents. working, 5 cents; silk for working, 15 cents.
Stamped on
Cotton for
on linen, 30 cenls. Colored or white cotton for working. 5 cents; colored or white silk for working, 10 cents.
:%o*
26 cents.
No. inil.
Perforateil pattern, 40 cents. Slantped on linen, 75 cents; on cotton lawn, 50 cents, (..'olored cottvm !"(r working, .35 cents; colored silk for working. GO cents. White cotton for working, 25 cents; white silk for working, 50 cents.
BabyN
Pillow.
1331. PInciisbion. Perforated pattern, 53^ xl4 inches. Stamped on linen, with net, S6 cents. Colored
cotton for working, 25 cents; colored silk for working, 50 cents. White cotton for working, 20 cents; white silk for working, 40 cents.
Perforated pattern, ISx 18 inches. Stamped on white or hlue linen, 75 cents on brown cents. Colored cotton for working, 50 cents; col for working. 90 cents. While cotton for working. white silk for working, 70 cents.
;
No, 1323.
nandkerchief Case. Perforated pattern, 10 cents. Stam]>ed on linen, 15 cents, Colored or white cotton for working, 5 cts. colored or white silk for working, 10 cts.
j
;
No. 1324. Bresi) Oarnitare. Perforated pattern, 50 cents. Stamped on linen, 60 cents. Colored or while cotton for
working, 60 cents; colored or white silk for working,
$1.20.
The
LIBRftRY OF CONGRtSS
Work
THE
needed.
above illustration of a detail of the cut- work collarette on shows plainly how the embroidery and lace stitches are executed.
As
next the space to be cut, and the lace stitches put in place by carrying t^e
threads across from side to side, twisting back, and weaving wheels where
Next the Wallachian work is done with mercerized cotton, covering and forming the buttonholed edge next the cut space, and after this is finished the linen under the lace stitches and around
the ends of the lace stitches
stil