Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Amurskaya E/F-2 Admirala Vladimirskogo E/F-3 Admirala Azarova E-4/5 Avdeyeva E-5 Antonenko E-5 Admirala Fadeyeva A/B-4 Admirala Yumasheva A/B-4-5 Aleksakisa F/G-3 Admirala Oktyabrskogo F-4 Bolshaya Morskaya F-3/4 Belinskogo E-5 Balkanskaya E-5 Borisova A-5 Budennogo F-5 Batumskaya F-3/4 Chernomorskaya E-4 Chapayeva F-5 Chastnika F-3/4 Chertsova D/E-4 Dalnaya E-5 Demidova F-2 Demitrove per. C-4 Drevnyaya D-3 Dmitriya Ulyanova D-3/4 Dekabristov D/C-4 Yefremova C-4/5 Frunze F-3 Feodosiyskaya E-5 Glukhova C/D4 Geroyev Bresta A-5 Geroyev Stalingrada A-4/5 Generala Kreyzera E/F-3 Guseva E/F-3 Generala Petrova F-3 Gromova F-1 Godlevskogo F-4 Gogolya F-4/5 Geroyev Sevastopolya G-3/4 Ivana Golubtsa E-4/5,F-5 Kapitanskaya F-2 Kirpichnaya F-2 Kerchenskaya F-3/4 Kostomarovskaya F-4 Kozhanova F-5 Kotovskogo F/C-5 Korobkova F/G-5 Krasniy Spusk G-3 Khersonskaya E/F-3 Katernaya E-3 Korsunskaya E-3 Karantinnaya E-3 Kommunisticheskaya E-3-F-5 Kievskaya E-4/5 Kovpaka E/F-5 Kozlova C-3/4 Kharkovskaya E-4/5 Kiyachenka E/F-3 Krupskoi C/D-4 Krasnodarskaya D/E-4 Lunacharskogo F/G-3 Lenina G-2/4 Lazarevskaya G-4 Lva Tolstogo E-5 Lomonosova F-2 Lizy Chayikinoy C-4/5 Matroskiy per. F-2 Mayakovskogo F-3 Minnaya G-3 Mechnikova E/F-4 Matyushenko E-4/5 Moskovskaya E-5 Matrosova C-4 Novorossiyskaya F-3/4 Nabereznaya Kornilova F-2 Nakhimova prosp. F-2/3 Nikolaya Muzyki F-5 Niny Onilovoy F/G-5 Novikova-Priboya E-3 Ochakovtsev F-3/4 Odesskaya F-3 Oktyabrskoy Revolutsii prosp. A/B-5 Pavla Dybenka C-3/4 Pontonnaya E-3/4 Pionerskaya E-3 Pozharova E-3/4 Pugacheva E-4 Popova F-4 Plastunskaya G-4 Pushkina G-3/4 Revyakina G-4 Revolutsii 1905 E-4/5 Radishcheva E-5 Rybatskiy prichal D/C-4-B-5 Ryabova F-4 Repina D-4/5 Samoylenko B-3/4 Sladkova C-5 Stepanyana B-5 Shchitovaya B-3/4 Shchelkunova C-4 Shostaka D-3/4 Safronova E-4/5 Simferopolskaya E-5 Sukhumskaya E-5 Shcherbaka F-2/3 Shchorsa F-3 Suvorova F-3 Shestakova spusk F-3 Sovetskaya F-3/4,G-3 Shmidta F-4 Shvartsa F-4 Supruna F-5 Stepanenko F-5 Trolleybusniy spusk G-4 Tereshenko G-3 Uralskaya C/D-4 Vakulenchuka C/D-5,D-4 Voronina F-3 Volodarskogo F-3 Vostavshykh E/F-4 Vokzalnaya G-4/5 Vasiliya Kuchera G-3 Vatutina F/G-5 Yeroshenko D-3/4 Yuriya Gagarina C/D-4 Yana Gamarnika F-5 Zoyi Kosmodemyanskoy C/D-4 Zagorodnaya Balka E-3/4 Zheleznyakova E-3 4-ya Bastionnaya F-4/5 5-ya Bastionnaya F-4 6-ya Bastionnaya E/F-3 9-go Yanvarya G-4
WhAt to see
Great Mitridat Stairs C-4, near the Lenina pl. The stairs were built in the 1930s with plans from the Italian architect Alexander Digby. To save you the bother we have already counted them; there are 432 steps in all meandering from the Kerch central square to the hill top. Beautiful vases, stone griffins which are the symbols of Kerch, decorate the stairs. From here one has an amazing view of the city. Come the day before Victory Day (May 9th) and you might see a grandiose torch procession up the stairs to the top of Mitridat hill. Every year children from all the city schools gather to commemorate the heroic deeds of Kerchs WWII defenders. You will also see an open-air theatrical event depicting some of the most tragic and moving moments of the citys wartime history.
golden treasures, at least the most significant, found in Kerch and surrounding areas are now in St. Petersburgs Hermitage Museum, and in the Museum of Historical Valuables in Kyiv. Luckily there are still some interesting pieces in Kerch to see. The Treasury exhibits gold and silver coins from the Bosporus Kingdom times and coins of the great rulers Alexander the Great and Mitridat the VI of Eupator. There are also coins with a picture of a griffin, which became a symbol of modern Kerch. Among the gems exhibited are several treasures. One is a hoard of electrum coins minted in the Asia Minor city of Cyzicus. The other hoard was found in 2003 in the ancient settlement Myrmekion near one of the citys beaches. This contained ninety-nine coins decorated with images of gods, heroes, mythical, and real animals. The collection also contains antique jewellery of the first century. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00. Admission 40Hr, children 20Hr. Admission with a translator 60Hr.
Passengers and transport check-in closes 35 min before departure. Current schedule can be checked at www.pereprava.com.ua or by tel. (+380) 6561 6 95 07/(+380) 50 393 42 02. QTickets 37Hr, children 18.50Hr. For a car be ready to pay from 245Hr to 380Hr depends on the length of the car.
By Train
Regular trains connect Kerch with Kyiv, Dnipropetrovsk, Moscow and Mykolaiv, although the direct train from Kyiv is something of a nightmare on wheels, as it stops for five hours at Dzhankoy. The fastest way to get to Kerch by train is fact through Simferopol. From the train station in Simferopol head for the Kurortnaya bus station and take a bus to Kerch: these depart almost every hour and cost around 70Hr. Getting to town Kerch train station is located some distance from the city centre. Take a trolleybus or marshrutkas Nos. 24 or 35 to the bus station and then follow the instructions above.
By Sea
There is a regular ferry connection between Ukraine and Russia (which is only four kilometres away from Kerchenska bay). The ferry ride takes just 20-25 minutes, but all the customs controls mean the journey is a lot longer. Ferries arrive and depart from Krym, which is in 14 km from the centre of Kerch. To get to the city centre, take bus No. 1, which will drop you off near the bus station.
Bus schedule
City CHORNOMORSKE DZHANKOY FEODOSIA YEVPATORIA KHERSON KRASNODAR MYKOLAIV NOVOROSSIYSK ODESA SEVASTOPOL SCHOLKINE SIMFEROPOL YALTA Dep. 15:15 05:40, 11:10, 12:40, 14:50, 16:50 08:15 08:50, 14:20 07:30 08:40, 11:20, 21:00, 23:40 18:40 23:45 19:05 05:00, 06:20, 16:05, 06:45, 10:00, 12:15, 15:50 from 05:30 every 30-40 minutes 06:55, 17:00
The Roman Catholic Church of the Assumption of Virgin Mary Teatralnaya 32. The Church of the Assumption was built in Kerch between 1831-1840 with funds from the Italian community. The building has a classic style with massive pillars. In Soviet times, the Roman Catholic Church, like many other religious sites in Crimea, were converted into gyms. In the 1990s, the building stood without doors and windows and had a broken roof. The relict was returned to the Catholic community and instantly the renovation works started. Now it is an active church.
Golden Treasury C-5, Sverdlova 22, tel. (+380) 6561 2 18 60. Most of
Essential Sights
Demeters Crypt C-4, 1-ya Prodolnaya 23.
Demeters crypt is famous for its mural paintings and architecture. It is underground with its walls and ceiling covered with illustrations of the mythical Demeter, the goddess of the harvest and fertility. Worship for Demeter was very popular in the Bosporus Kingdom and priestesses were buried in this crypt. In the times of war it was used as a bomb shelter. The crypt had been damaged by underground waters, and in 2001 renewal works were carried out. At the moment the crypt is closed to visitors, but a replica is exhibited at the bottom of Mitridat mount.
Train schedule
From Kerch Dep. Arr. 21:30 11:50 13:40 06:33 06:05 11:30 14:40 21:57 City DNIPROPETROVSK KYIV MOSCOW MYKOLAIV To Kerch Dep. Arr. 21:30 11:50 13:09 06:10 16:21 18:51 06:05 14:05
Panticapeum
Basically Panticapeum is Kerch itself. Its the name it was known under in ancient times when it was the capital of the powerful Bosporus Kingdom. It is one of the oldest cities in Crimea, founded by Greeks from Miletus. The western borders of the Bosporus Kingdom were near the modern town of Feodosia and sometimes it even included the entire Crimean peninsula. To the East, the state extended its limits to the Caucasus mountains, reaching the neighbourhood of the modern cities of Anapa and Novorossiysk. The extreme northern outpost of the kingdom was located at the mouth of the Don river. Unlike many other ancient cities in Greece, Asia Minor or Sicily, where remains of Greek civilization are still well preserved, the Bosporus capitals ancient buildings were totally wiped out. The last remnants were pulled down in the first half of 19th century and there is hardly a trace of any ruins left. Most of the settlement and its necropolis was built on what is now modern Kerch. The power of the Bosporus Kingdom lasted 900 years, living through periods of prosperity and decline, being an important trade centre for both the nomadic and sedentary tribes that inhabited the Black and Azov Seas. According to ancient writers, the economic potential of the country in the 4th century BC allowed Panticapeum to supply grain to Athens, one of the largest and most powerful Greek cities. The city was conquered by the Sarmatians, then the Romans and was finally destroyed by the Huns in 375. However even after the destruction, the small town of Bosporus still existed. Being a part of the Byzantine Empire, it was taken by the Khazars in the 7th century, who gave the city a new name Karsha (the market). In the 10th-12th centuries, under the name Korchev, it was a part of the Tmutarakan principality of Kyivan Rus. In 1475 under the name Cherkio it became a Genoese colony, and later served as one of the Turkish strongholds in Crimea. Today tourists can see only small part of the excavations of ancient Panticapeum, walking along the ancient pavements, entering temples, and taking pictures at the famous Greek columns. These columns were saved by a miracle, as the hill was a place of fierce fights during World War II. The remains of the city are located on the slopes of Mitridat Mount. The ancient towns of Nymphaion, Myrmekion, and others are now only marked with signs. The ruins of the small port of Acre, where according to legend Achilles was born, were found in the waters of the Kerch Strait.
Kul-Oba Barrow A-5. The most famous barrow in the Kerch region, Kul-Oba is
kerch.inyourpocket.com
During the high season - from the beginning of June until the end of September -- there are additional trains to and from Kerch.
located on the territory of the Pantikapeum necropolis, in the hills around Mitridat mount. In September 1830, a stone crypt was found here with three bodies surrounded by horse bones, and rich burial items. The tomb was plundered by gold diggers before the excavation was completed. Among the stolen goods was a golden plaque in the form of a deer. Eventually it was purchased by Count Stroganov and today the treasure is in the Hermitage museum.
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50 61. The Melek Chesmenskiy burial ground is located in the central part of Kerch on the territory of the bus station. This burial ground is believed to have the most perfect structure ever found among Bosporus burials. It is named after the Melek-Chesme River which passes the burial site, in Turkish it means Tsars River. Excavations started in 1857 and it was hoped that grave would be untouched. Sadly, as with many other barrows in the area, Melek-Chesmenskiy had been plundered long ago. The site consists of a burial chamber and corridor. The height of the sepulchre is 4meters. QOpen 9:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5Hr, children 2Hr.
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Obelisc of Glory C-4, Mitridat mount. The Obelisk of Glory was built in honour of Coastal Army warriors and Azov Fleet sailors, who were killedin 1943-1944 during WW II. It is located on the Mitridat mount and can be seen from 20km away. There are three cannons standing on the pedestal as if they are guarding the obelisk. Totlben Fort (Kerch Fortress) (+380) 6561 2 50 61. This is one of the most mysterious and interesting sights of Kerch. Totlben Fort is a system of underground tunnels and fortifications. It is considered to be a masterpiece of fortification architecture of the 19th century and is of great interest to many scientists. The manning of the Fort began in 1857 after Russias defeat in the Crimean War. It was the Emperor Alexander II himself who initiated the construction. The building of the fortress took place under the authority of the Adjutant General Edward Totleben whom the fort was named after. The uniqueness of this fortress is in the special design of the building, which makes in invisible both from the sea and from the land. It was very difficult to find if one did not know its exact location. What set Totlben Fort apart from other military fortifications was that it had its own pigeon station, which allowed communication with the troops through specially-trained pigeons. Admission to the Fort is possible only with a tour and children under the age of 7 are not permitted in the fortress. There are 2 routes of guided tours. To get there take bus #6 from the bus station and get off at the Derevoobrabatyvayuschiy Filial stop or just ask for Totlben Fort, because pronouncing this stops name is difficult, even in Russian. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50Hr (children 20Hr) for the 1st rout and 60Hr (30Hr for children) for the 2nd rout. Admission with a translator for a group 75Hr.
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Tsars Barrow G-1, Skifskaya, tel. (+380) 6561 5 47 13/(+380) 6561 2 50 61. The majestic Tsars Barrow is a masterpiece of world architecture. It was built in the 4th century B.C. for the Bosporus King of the Spartakid dynasty. The Barrow was completely plundered in ancient times. The only thing that was preserved was the remains of a wooden sarcophagus. However, some articles were found there in 1830 which triggered a gold rush in Southern Russia. Today these articles are in the Hermitages Gold Treasury in St. Petersburg Russia. The height of the Barrow is 17meters. The burial chamber is 4.39 4.35 meters. There is a 36 meter tunnel which leads to it. Everything was built from the local limestone. Tsars Barrow is located 5km from the centre of Kerch in Adzhymushkay village. To get there take bus #4 from the bus station and get off on Yagunova stop.Q Open 9:00 - 18:00. Admission 15Hr, children 5Hr.
the new fortress in Tatar, is located 10km from Kerch. At the end of the 15th century, under pressure from the Ottoman Empire, the Genoeses left their Crimean fortresses and cities. In 1699 Peter I demonstrated his newly built Russian Fleet, which influenced the armistice between Russia and the Ottoman Empire. In spite of the armistice, in 1701 the Turks laid the foundation of the fortress that would prevent invasion by the Russian Fleet. The headquarters of the Turkish defence of the Black Sea cost was here. The site was chosen over the Kafas command centre at Feodosia and the old fortress of Kerch. Yeni-Kale was built by an Italian architect and looks incredibly beautiful. In 1768 the Sultan of Turkey declared a war on Russia. Under the command of Prince Dolgorukiy, the Russian forces won this war and Yeni-Kale along with Kerch became a part of the Russian Empire. Ten years later Yeni-Kale became a centre of trade fairs, where merchants from Crimea, Russia and the Caucasus sold their goods. At the beginning of the 19th century the fortress became a military hospital and a small village appeared around it.
Nymphaion
17 km south of Kerch, near the village of Eltilgen (Geroevskoe), are the ruins of the ancient Greek city of Nymphaion. The settlement was located on a plateau on the bank of the Kerch Strait (the ancient Cimmerian Bosporus). According to ancient sources Nymphaion was founded by Greek colonists in the first half of the 4th century BC. The fertile land and the harbour made Nymphaion an important trade centre and one of the leading exporters of grain in the Bosporus. The city joined the Bosporus Kingdom in the first half of 4th century BC, during the period of Panticapeum military expansion against Kafa (modern Feodosia). Fortifications and temples were built forming the city blocks of Nymphaion. In the 3rd 2nd centuries BC, the importance of Nymphaion as a trade centre decreased, but it remained a large and populous city until the first century AD. During excavation works in 1866 some marvellous jewellery was found gold earrings with pendants representing Artemis, torch in hand while riding a deer. There is also a cornelian depicting scenes of a struggle between Heracles and Apollo, a golden rosette decorated with blue enamel filigree, and many other lovely pieces. In 1900 the Hermitage Museum purchased a collection of antique items from the Nymphaion excavations. A large part of the Nymphaion artefacts, were extracted by pirate archaeologists and is now stored in European museums and private collections.
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Museums
Art Gallery C-5, Sverdlova 36, tel. (+380) 6561 2 20 86. The main part of the gallery is dedicated to a Photograph exhibition. There are 29 pictures of the Adzhymushkay stone quarrie taken during the WW II. It is dedicated to the heroic deeds of the citys defenders. In addition to the Adzhymushkay history exhibit, there is an art exhibit of Kerch culture dating from ancient times and to the present. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 20Hr, children 10Hr.
tel. (+380) 6561 2 18 60. The Museum is considered to be one of the oldest in Ukraine. It opened in 1826 and displays a unique collection of ancient tombstones, sculptures, painted ceramics, and items made of wood and bones. There are coins, terra cotta, and plaster decorations of the tombs with painting samples from the burial crypts, as well as monuments of Byzantine and early Christian epochs. The museum is divided in two exhibitions: The history of the Bosporus Kingdom and Kerch region in Medieval times. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20Hr, children 10Hr. mushkay village, tel. (+380) 6561 5 49 01. At the eastern edge of Kerch is the village of Adzhymushkay. Since ancient times Kerch limestone has been mined here. A visit here is one of the most breathtaking things you can do in Kerch. The underground galleries and tunnels stretch for miles and form a complex maze. During WW II they gave shelter for many months to about 10 000 of the citys defenders and civilians. Despite an extreme lack of water, provision and medicines they resisted the German occupiers and even conducted a series of resistance attacks. In 1966 the museum was founded here, where one can see a well, a gas-proof shelter, hospital, and other possessions of people who lived here. To get there take bus #4 from the bus station. Photography is prohibited. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50Hr, children 25Hr. Tour with interpreter - 75Hr. Individual tour - 400Hr.
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Myrmekion
The small Bosporus town of Myrmekion is one of the most important archaeological sites of Eastern Crimea. The ancient settlement was founded in the middle of the 4th century BC and was an industrial suburb of Panticapeum. After becoming a part of the Bosporus Kingdom, Myrmekion was fortified with defensive walls to strengthen the approaches to Pantikapion. In the 3rd 2nd centuries a unique ash hill more than 3 meters in height appeared. Numerous terracotta and coins have been found there. At the beginning of the first century AD, Myrmekion fell into decay after the death of Mithridates VI. The town ceased to exist around the 4th century. Foundations of defensive walls, masonry of citys buildings, and remains of the wineries have survived. The ruins of the settlement are located 4 km from Kerch on the north shore of the Kerch bay.
KERCH
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LEGEND:
Sea terminal Beach Hospital Hotel Post o ce Bus station
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Sevastopol
Simferopol
Pryvokzalna sq. 1, tel. (+380) 66 628 84 88 simturservice@mail.ru. Pryvokzalna sq. 1 (service centre) tel. (+380) 652 54 58 87 / (+380) 95 609 91 04. Simferopol International Airport tel. (+380) 652 54 58 87 / (+380) 95 609 91 04.
Sudak
Chornomorske
Bakhchisaray
Yevpatoria
Tuchina 1/2, tel. (+380) 6569 2 79 79, info-tic@meta.ua. Zaozerne village, Druzhby alley 70 tel. (+380) 6569 9 00 20 zaozerkakp-otdix@yandex.ru.
Scholkine
Bus station area, tel. (+380) 6557 5 26 69 / (+380) 50 238 08 62, Schelkinotur@mail.ru.
Kachik lake Chornomorske
www.inyourpocket.com
introducing Kerch
BAsics Electricity
Ukraine supplies its residents and visitors alike with electrical current of 220 volts AC, 50Hz. All sockets require two round pins, but not always of the same size. Many thinner Russian sockets are being replaced by their European cousins. Those with Russian sockets can buy a cheap adapter for their European appliances. Adapters for more foreign electrical societies are not easy to find in Kerch, so bring your own.
Where to stAy
Grafskaya Pristan C-4, Dimitrova prov. 4, tel. (+380) 6561 2 27 48,
http://grafskaya.allhotels.crimea.ua/. The lodging facilities arent extensive, with 8 standards and 2 suites. The interior is rendered not in standard utilitarian hotel style, but is cosy in its way. In summer the place gets quite noisy because of the action out on the summer terrace. The suites arent super upscale, but there is one unbeatable detail about the place: one of the suites has a Jacuzzi installed right on the balcony, facing the sea. A bubble bath with a glass of champagne, with sea views, right in the center of the city? Sounds like a good thing to try when its warm out. Q standards 450Hr, suites 700Hr. PAKW
Where to eAt
French cuisine with a whole list of classic pastries and Russian pirozhkis (all made in the in-house pastry shop), desserts, teas, great breakfasts and European bistro classics. We had our share of morning treats at Grande Veranda, since our hotel breakfast was far from good, but the place is pleasant throughout the day, so it can be your lunch destination or else your restaurant of choice for a romantic dinner with wine. In the summer Grande Veranda will feature an actual veranda (a summer terrace with live jazz at night). Personnel speak English. Average check - 100-120Hr. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PAVEGBXS
KERCH
In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks. The New York Times
There are some cities on the Earth which are known as eternal. Life in these cities has never stopped, and they have always been at the centre of historical events. Athens, Rome and Naples are three which spring to mind, and we are proud to add to this honoured list a rather small but incredibly important city which has seem some serious history over the past 26 centuries. During that time it has been called by more than dozen different names, but is today very much the modern Ukrainian city of Kerch. The first known settlement here was founded by the Cimmerians. Centuries later, the modern Strait of Kerch was named after this prominent tribe - the Cimmerian Bosporus. The Scythians, who arrived after the Cimmerians, considered the area a holy place. A lot of researchers think that the surrounding area of modern Kerch is the legendary Scythian land, Gerros - a place where their kings were buried. Nowhere else will you find so many tombs. The total number of them goes beyond 1500. One of them - the Kings Tomb - is a true masterpiece of world architecture. The modern city is gradually shifting from its communist-era industrial self into a more recreational kind of place. Its centre is pretty and well-kept, a fact which locals say is thanks to the mayor, a man big on order. The majority of the cafes and hotels are concentrated on a single pedestrian street, around the park, and the waterfront. The rest of the city, meanwhile, consists largely of post-Soviet residential projects that tourists will probably not consider worth seeing. The hotels that have been geared for purely recreational purposes are located on the citys outskirts, near the coast and away from the ports (20 min by bus). Natural attractions include the steppe, both the Azov and Black Seas, and nearby spots featuring the areas allegedly super-therapeutic mud. While Kerch has been a remote and mostly industrial area of Crimea for many years, its 2600 years of existence have given this eastern tip of Crimea numerous treasures; from the ancient Byzantine-style cathedral to Greek heritage straight out of Homer. And now recent evidence has been recovered of heroic deeds done during WWII that are as epic as anything the classical era has produced. All these artefacts of the citys life can be seen during your stay there. In this guide we have tried to gather together all the best places in Kerch and around the city. As happens with seaside resorts, a few more may as summer approaches, and we apologise in advance for missing them. If you do spot somewhere we have missed, let us know: we can be sure to include it next time. Enjoy Kerch.
Language
The countrys official language is Ukrainian. Since independence in 1991, it has become much more popular and widespread. Still, Russian is heavily used in Crimea and Eastern Ukraine, and only in western regions is Ukrainian truly predominant.
Kerch C-4, Kirova 11, tel. (+380) 6561 602 82/(+380) 6561 212 04,
Money
The national currency is the hryvnia (Hr), which replaced the transitional karbovanets on September 2, 1996. Dont be confused if your amount is given in roubles. You havent been transported to Russia or taken back in time to the USSR - some people just have trouble letting go of the past! Paper bills carry denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 50, 100, 200 and 500 hryvnias. Another word to the wise: two versions exist of the 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 hryvnia bills, and both are accepted everywhere. There are 100 kopecks in a hryvnia, with 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50 kopeck and 1Hr coins. Youll have no problem finding currency exchange points, but rates are better from central street kiosks. If its travellers checks you need to cash, look for a big respectable-looking bank. You can find a number of ATMs around Kerch and some hotels and restaurants now take Visa and MasterCard - American Express is not very popular. There have been scattered reports of credit card fraud in upscale restaurants, though, so you may want to think twice before charging it.
kerchhotel@mail.ru, kerch.resorts-crimea.com. This hotel is right in the center of the city and is considered by many to be the best in town. In the off-season its the preferred place of stay for sea captains, foreigners and businessmen. It carries the citys name with pride and incorporates elements of the citys Greek heritage into the design elements on the walls; the corridors, meanwhile, look rather like a Minotaurs labyrinth. Griffin images (the symbol of Kerch) also abound. The rooms are classically elegant, if not too big. Breakfast is nothing to write home about, but there are plenty of places to eat right around the corner. This establishment represents a great stay for anyone who needs to spend time in the actual city. If you come here to chill on the beach, look for lodging thats closer to it, as its a bit of a trip from Kerch hotel. English-speaking personnel. Q Standard 400Hr, Superior 500Hr, Junior suite 800Hr, Suite 1000Hr. PbJHLGXW
Meridian B-5, Marata 9, tel. (+380) 6561 615 07/(+380) 6561 647 55,
Kiev G-4, Moskovskaya 18, tel. (+380) 6561 665 75, otdoxni@ukr.net, kiev.
meridianhotel@ukr.net, www.meridianhotel.com.ua. The hotel was built in the Soviet era and looks it: its exterior implies that its all about utility rather than style. Meridian operates on the same principles. The clean and decent rooms wont spoil you with loads of room or perks services, but youll get a decent night of rest and an unpretentious breakfast (optional) in the in-house Provence caf, and for a bill that wont break the bank. The location is slightly removed from the city centre: 5-10 minutes on the bus will get you there, or to the beach, depending on your plans. The hotel is certified as a Ukrainian 3-star lodging: the rooms are simpler than those in an equivalent western hotel, but you get exactly what you pay for. Q106 rooms (Standard 140 - 370Hr, Suite 280 - 560Hr, Apartment 1000Hr). PHLW hhh
INKI Grill Bar C-4, Kooperativnyi 3, tel. (+380) 6561 215 22. A warm and cosy palette, old-style photos and artifacts on the walls and tables: this place is certainly a pleasant place to wait while youre waiting for your steak or sausages with home-made sauces. Inki is beloved by office workers during the day for its great and filling lunch offers, while at night it turns into a hang-out place for everyone, usually an over-25 crowd that loves the taste of slightly charred tomatoes or a good chunk of grilled meat. The cooks here can cook a good steak and the staff can pour you a decent glass of wine to go with it. Alternatively, the sushi menu is one of the best in town. Average check is 80-100Hr. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PV Velur Karaoke Bar C-4, Kirova 1, tel. (+380) 50 191 91 95. Velur offers a glamourous interior with golden draping and white furniture: its a great place for a girls nights out (the glamourous version). Maybe singing along to some 90s classics on the karaoke machine and some local sparkling wine or a heated game of Mafia (played here on the regular basis) will spark up the mood and get the girls to cultivate their wilder sides. Alternatively, this is a good place for a first date: you can impress her, or him, with your tenor, or soprano, whatever the case may be. The place serves decent food (mixed cuisine, mostly European) and hosts themed parties on a regular basis. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. P Zimniy Sad C-4, Kozlova 4, tel. (+380) 6561 285 41. The interior here
is designed to impress: pure white interior, razzle-dazzle everywhere, drapes and fake flowers - it all looks like a fairy garden in the imagination of a little girl. For that matter, certain sensitive girls might get ecstatic just thinking about a romantic date in this place. We dont mind the ambiance, but coming here in casual outfit might create an uncomfortable cognitive dissonance. For that matter, we prefer the summer terrace: shady, quiet, surrounded by flowers and away from the citys bustle, this is a very pleasant place to spend a summer night. The menu is the usual for the city: anything you can think of is listed. We went for a seasonal local fish (pan-fried) with garnish and a glass of white Riesling. The fish was done properly and served fast and without any bad surprises. The wine, on the other hand, was warm - ask them to chill it for you or order the red. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PEGB
Safety
They say that Ukrainians can spot a foreigner from a kilometre away. This fact alone will not automatically make you the target of crime. As in most cities, flashing large amounts of cash can cause trouble. Wallets are known to disappear in public transport crowds, so guard your pockets at all times. Being very drunk and/or loud on the street is always a good way to attract unwanted attention, especially from the police. By the way, its a good idea for foreigners to carry at least a copy of their passport and visa with them at all times.
crimea.ua. Kiev keeps the Soviet sanatorium tradition alive, but in a modern and much-improved way. Russian investors have laid on sufficient funds to modernise and equip the rooms, repair the indoor pool, maintain the park and the private beach and the 24-hour security, and preserve the therapeutic elements (respiratory procedures, mud treatments for joints and spine maladies and much more). The result is pretty great. Come here either alone or with your kids (there are great childrens facilities, including a yacht club for kids) - either way this represents one of the best choices for a holiday stay in Kerch. The place is mainly targeted to locals and Russian guests, given that its close to the ferry that runs between Kerch and Southern Russia, so you probably wont find much English spoken. 15 minutes by bus will get you to the city centre. Q Superior 155 - 300Hr, Suite 345 - 520Hr. 4 meals a day included. PTHUFC
More C-5, Sverdlova 5A, tel. (+380) 6561 612 45, morekerch@mail.ru.
The owner mustve paid big money for this location - the hotel is right in the park stretching along the waterfront. In the winter businessmen love to stay here because of the quiet central location, while by summer there arrives a set of loyal customers who love this little place for its hospitality, its proximity to the sea, its park attractions, and its cafes and bars. In fact, one of them, Vesta, is right in the back of the hotel (the hotel serves guests breakfast in it). Turkish bath and billiards are also part of the hotel complex. The rooms are decent (although smoking is allowed everywhere) and pricier options are equipped with Jacuzzis. Personnel will meet your needs with that friendliness and openness that small private hotels can excel at. Q9 rooms (standard 360Hr, standard 410Hr, junior suite 510Hr, suite 610Hr). PA6LDXW
Lazurnaya B-3, Miroshnika 1V, tel. (+380) 656 520 04/(+380) 656 538
Smoking
Youre never too far away from a lit cigarette in Ukraine, and in some bars and clubs the term second-hand smoke just doesnt seem to matter. Smokers enjoy a ridiculously cheap selection of cigarettes hawked by one of the many babushkas and corner kiosks that are located throughout the city. Just recently Ukraine outlawed smoking in most public places and the workplace, except in specially designated areas. It is the responsibility of each company to provide a designated area for all smoking patrons or personnel. These special places can not exceed 50% of the total allotted area of the business. Since this law is relatively new in Ukraine, not every business has begun to enforce it.
57. The place strikes a visitor right from the start: the receptionist is sitting in a sort of metal cage, an old TV is buzzing in the dingy lobby, and a gigantic parrot is flying around and squeaking, landing on whatever he finds suitable. Lazurnaya hotel should be your place to stay in only two cases: youre on an exotic tour seeking local undiluted colour, or in case of emergency. For all that, the rooms are actually not so bad: theyre clean and the appliances work. The corridors, on the other hand, are currently undergoing renovation, so there might be dust and noise. Theres no English spoken and no discernible extra services. This place offers one-night transitional lodging for low-budget business travellers, but managements is helpful and friendly and the place is a 3 minute walk from the bus station and 15 min away from Lenina Street, citys major strolling and shopping area. AC, TC, fridge (in the more expensive rooms), WiFi in the lobby and on the 2nd floor, no breakfast, rooms are non-smoking; theres a blinnaya (inexpensive pancake cafe) 5 minutes away from the hotel. Q PGW
Viktoria Geroevskoe, Galiny Petrovoy 11, tel. (+380) 6561 72810/(+380) 50 612 35 51, vivaladiva@mail.ru, www.hotel-victoria.com.ua. Vacation where youre loved - thats the motto of the Viktoria private sanatorium, and the owner certainly take it seriously, bathing guests and every single detail here in love. The rooms are a bit overdesigned for our taste but they are big enough and clean. Overall, the place targets families with little kids: there are home-cooked meals, entertainers, a fountain, and all sort of games to occupy a kid if you need some time off to relax in the sauna or just to read or go for a swim. The beach is just 200 m away. In the off-season Victoria resort readily hosts corporate events. The place is located in Geroevskoe village, 20 minutes from the centre on the bus. Q 26 rooms (15 Standard 60 - 240Hr, 11 Suite 400 - 700Hr). PTHLD
Restaurants
Banzai Sushi Bar C-4, Lenina pl. 19, tel. (+380) 66 890 65 62/(+380) 50 631 33 43. The owners are proud of their innovative sushi (in some cases the ingredients are wrapped in cheese and not in seaweed), their imported Japanese wines and their interior (dark wood, Japanese screens). And thats about it in terms of the Japanese angle. Other things are pretty typical of Crimean eateries. The menu is eclectic: besides sushi there is a range of Ukrainian dishes, as well as local Crimean (mainly local fish) and European ones (fried baby octopus). The area is divided for smokers and non-smokers and theres a summer terrace. This is a good place to come for a drink or a cup of Illy coffee on the terrace, but the place is on the pricier side (average check- 200Hr), especially when it comes to the sushi, which in Crimea is still considered a super luxurious product. But if you fill like indulging yourself, why not? QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PTAVGBX Celentano C-3, Gaidara 9, tel. (+380) 6561 5 27 57. Once youve been in one Celentano, youve been in all of them, so theres no need to go into too much detail about this outpost of the regional pizza chain. The main benefit here, except for the low prices and the decent quality of the fast food, is its proximity to the bus station. So, if you feel like relaxing after the long bus ride from Simferopol and looking at the city map before hitting the road again, then Celentano is your place. Beer, tea, or milk-shakes will kill your thirst, while pizza and salads will replenish lost calories. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PA Grande Veranda C-4, Lenina 43, tel. (+380) 50 534 03 40. Girly, smelling of pastry and with French pop playing inside, this place is the best you can get in Kerch when it comes to a European-style caf. The veranda features Russian-
Tipping
Kerch tipping culture is developing slowly. While no general rule exists yet, most restaurant-goers leave around 10% of their bill. But your waitstaff will expect more from you as a foreigner. Some places include a service charge of five to 10 per cent, so read the fine print or ask.
Published by Neolitas-KIS Ltd. Neolitas-KIS, 2012 Comments and enquiries send to kyiv@inyourpocket.com, tel. (+ 380) 44 467 78 20. Cover photo: Vladimir Nikulin Photos: Kerch In Your Pocket Maps: Neolitas-KIS, 2012 Writers: Viktoriya Barchenko, Natasha Martisova Text and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS, 2012. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu g. 9-4, LT-01124, Vilnius, Lithuania). All editorial content of In Your Pocket mini-guides is free from paid-for advertising. In Your Pocket has made every effort to ensure accuracy of information at the time of going to print and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. (Spring 2012)
MINI-GUIDE
Help!
Ambulance C-2, Komarova 26, tel. 102/(+380) 6561 2 21 48. Fire (MChS) C-2, Komarova 1, tel. 101/(+380) 6561 2 25 57. Police tel. 102/(+380) 6561 2 04 11. Municipal Hospital #1 A-4, Zheni Dudnik 1, tel. (+380) 6561 2 08 08. Municipal Dental Clinic B-4, Pirogova 2A, tel. (+380) 6561 2 20 55.
Clubs
Moloko Club C-4, Kooperativnyi 26, tel. (+380) 66 235 90 19/(+380) 95 491 01 51. In the daytime, come for lunch and a decent local take on Japanese and European cuisine; at night the place turns into a club, and a pretty good one, which the locals flock to. The dark interior, good cocktail list, decent prices, theme parties and great DJ music (top DJs from the country come here regularly to play trance, electronic, and more) get the right atmosphere going. In the summer open-air premises are also available. Average check - 150Hr. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PVBS
Kerch peninsulA
Kerch peninsulA
abandoned after the Chernobyl disaster (the first power unit was 80% ready, the second - 18%). In 1987 the works over the project were suspended, and in 1989 it was finally decided to give up running the station. By this time, the construction of nuclear power plants has already been allocated 500 million rubles in the Soviet equivalent of 1984. There were a further 250 million rubles in materials stored in warehouses. The plant has begun to be stolen little by little. The black and non-ferrous metals have been taken out of there by whoever might. There is no radiation in and around the nuclear plant, because the fuel wasnt delivered there. As there is no official tour there to get inside pay about 50Hr to security on a place and youll be allowed to go inside. Some tips on visiting the plant: - Its best to go around with some local, who can guide you around - Take a good lighter - Watch out and be very careful, because there are numbers of uncovered holes To get there by public transport, take a regional train from Kerch to Sem kolodtsev station in Lenino town, then take a bus to Scholkine. Buses go frequently. If you travel by car, from Kerch follow M-17 road to Lenino, then turn right and go another 18km to Scholkine.
Mysove Scholkine
Kerch
-17
Gornostaivka
Kazantip Cape The Cape with its unusual natural landscapes, whimsical
the town Scholkine, on the shore of a salty Aktashskoe reservoir, though not an official tourist attraction, but a visit can be rather interesting. Why? Here are some facts: 1. This is the only nuclear power plant, which can be freely explored not only outside but also inside 2. For those who like to see industrial-style buildings and plant constructions (unfortunately most of the machinery has been dismantled) 3. From 1995 to 1999 nearby the NPP took place the best-known Ukrainian music festival KaZantip 4. Crimean NPP got in the Guinness Book of Records as the most expensive construction.
Crimean Nuclear Power Plant Unfinished nuclear power plant is located near
cliffs, sandy beaches in between, clean sea and climatic conditions is a unique place for sea recreation. In summer months, even in the hottest July and August the average temperature is about +25 C. The most frequent winds here are north-east, north-western and western. But even during the heavy storms the degree of roughness doesnt exceed 4-5 points, which makes Kazantip an ideal for windsurfing and kite surfing. The Cape and its surroundings were inhabited since the ancient times. In the 4-3rd centuries BC the first settlement Kazantip Western appeared here. At the Eastern part of the Cape the remnants of another ancient settlement of 3-2 centuries BC were found. On the map of Europe published in Strasbourg in 1513, Kazantip was marked as Heraclium. But nowadays in Europe the name Kazantip is most known for the music festival, which was held here in 1995-1999 and then moved to the area nearby Yevpatoria, keeping its original name. Since 1998 Kazantip is a Natural Reserve of National importance.
Prymorskyi
Yuzhne
Black Sea
Is it good or bad that theres no nuclear power plant in Crimea, it is difficult to say, Ukraine still remembers Chernobyl disaster and its consequences. So it is probably better that Scholkine didnt become another ghost town. Due to its location near the sea, crowds of tourists every summer come here to see the remains of the great Soviet construction. Almost finished nuclear power plant was