Surfer

The midweek crowd at Ala Moana Bowls on the south shore of Oahu was light despite the dreamy shoulder-high left-handers consistently peeling along the reef. But even with plenty of waves to go around, the small local crew fell into an exclusive rotat

The public perception of surfers has come a long way since their portrayal in 1982’s “Fast Times at Ridgemont High,” but surfers still battle stereotypes, especially around school campuses. Just ask any surfer who’s come to class with eyes tinged red

For the highly anticipated third season of “Planet Earth,” set for release this fall on BBC, Sir David Attenborough and his film crew went to Southern California for a look at some truly unique creatures. “Lower Trestles was an obvious choice for us

“The love of surfing is universal. Everybody loves to get shacked. It doesn’t matter what language you speak, what religion you believe in or what your skin color is.” Surfing keeps kids off the streets. It gives them something to think about that’s

I was in a bar the other night when somebody played the Pearl Jam song “Corduroy” from “Vitalogy” on the jukebox. The rollicking guitar and raspy vocals instantly catapulted me back to high school in Morro Bay, California, when I listened to that son

For the most part, big-wave guns have looked much the same for the last few decades. Sure, shapers have made incremental changes to volume, fin placement, rocker, bottom contours, etc., but the general shape of a big-wave surfboard looks about the sa

According to esteemed historian, author and former SURFER editor Matt Warshaw, it’s an uphill battle getting surfers to click on links with terms like “history” and “encyclopedia” in the headline. “People hear those two words and in their mind it’s l

On a warm June day, under Indonesia’s harsh midday sun, a row of soft turquoise peaks is stacking up and bending into a wide cove tucked neatly behind a headland overrun by tropical greenery. A pack of 10 or so local surfers scraps for the frontrunne

Frenchman William Aliotti wasn’t sure what to expect when he flew into a country often portrayed as a haven for terrorism and violence in the press. What he found in Tarkwa, however, told a much different story. Second from left, Emanuel Aladin is pa

On the 14th floor of the towering Central Civil West Courthouse in Los Angeles, the clock on the wall of a small, oak-paneled courtroom ticked past 10:15 a.m. as judge Carolyn Kuhl emerged from her chambers. Kuhl, a 65-year-old woman sporting a blond

No one knows exactly how or when the Canary Islands were first settled, but the indigenous Guanches people existed on them, 60 miles off the southern coast of Morocco, for centuries before the Spanish conquest in the 1400s. The volcanic isles of Tene

78 “San Simeon, CA,” 2014 79 “British Columbia,” 2016 80 “Derrick Disney, San Francisco, CA,” 2017 81 “January Storm,” 2017 82 “Samoa Beach, Humboldt, CA,” 2016 83 “Maui,” 2014 84 “Topanga Canyon, CA” 2015 Few young artists avoid the anxiety of influ