YARN UNEVENNESS & ITS IMPACT ON QUALITY

By Engr. Shan Imtiaz Lecturer (TUF) +92 3006600484

Yarn Unevenness
Yarn unevenness deals with the variation in yarn fineness. This is the property, commonly measured as the variation in mass per unit length along the yarn. In other words, it refers to the variation in yarn count along its length. It is the evenness of staple spun yarn that is of concern here. It is a basic and important one, since it can influence so many other properties of the yarn and of fabric made from it.

Perfectly Even Yarn

For a spun yarn to be perfect even, we need two conditions: The constituent fibres are uniform in thickness The yarn has the same number of fibres in all cross sections along its length

Methods to express Unevenness

For a complete analysis of quality we use two methods to express irregularity or unevenness.

1. The Irregularity U% 2. The Coefficient of Variation CV%

The Irregularity U%
It is the % mass deviations of unit length of material and caused by uneven fibre distribution along length of strand. The irregularity U% is proportional to the intensity of the mass variations around the mean value. The U% is independent of the evaluating time or tested material length with homogeneously distributed mass variation.

Coefficient of Variation CV%

The coefficient of variation CV is a well known value for the determination of the evenness of slivers, rovings and yarns. The Coefficient of Variation (CV) is the standard Deviation (SD) expressed as a percentage of the mean CV % = (SD mean) x 100 Each process in a spinning mill contributes a part to the evenness.

Comparison of two Fabrics with different CV%

The lower the CV-value, the more even is the material and the more even it will look in the end-product. Fig shows a comparison between two fabrics with a low (CV = 11.48%) and a high coefficient of variation (CV = 17.76%).

Classification of Variation
Random Variation Variation occurring without definite pattern of repetition or definite sequence of Thick and Thin Places. Periodic Variation Variation show definite sequence of thick and thin places in strand of material.
1. 2. 3. Short Term Variations Wave length 1-10 times of fibre length. Medium Term Variations Wave length 10-100 times the fibre length Long Term Variations Wave length 100-1000 times the fibre length

Imperfections

Imperfections referred to as frequently occurring yarn faults. They can be subdivided into three groups

Causes of Unevenness
The reason for yarn irregularity is based on the fact that it is not possible for staple fiber yarns to keep a constant number of fibers in the cross-section. Unevenness is unavoidable but we can minimize unevenness.

1. Variations in Raw material 2. Variation in Process

Reason (Spinning Process)

In order to achieve an even yarn quality, the spinning process must be controlled at every stage. This underlines the fact that an even yarn is the result of a controlled preparation process. Up to that point, the origin of faults can often be found in: Incorrect draft distributions in drawing, roving and spinning Incorrect settings of the auto-leveling system at the finisher drawframe Worn-out machine parts at any production stage

Unevenness Testing
The evenness of each preparatory product before spinning must be monitored and machine settings adjusted according to the raw material parameters, the machinery used and the required yarn quality level, as defined in the yarn quality profile agreed between the spinner and the retailer.
1. Visual Examination 2. Gravimetric Method (Cut and weigh method) 3. Capacitive Method 4) Mechanical method of sliver/roving evenness measurement 5) Optical method 6) Pneumatic Method 7) Acoustic Method

Visual Examination
Yarn to be examined is wrapped onto a matt black surface in equally spaced turns. The black boards are then examined under good lightening conditions using uniform non-directional light.

Uster Tester
Measuring device (Uster Tester) is a parallel plate air capacitor. The effect of introducing a nonconducting material such as sliver, roving or yarn into the space between the plates is to change the capacity of the capacitor.

 The change in mass per unit length is proportional to the change in capacitance. These changes in capacitance are detected, amplified and processed to obtain results in different forms.

Impact of Unevenness on Quality

Irregularity is the most important quality characteristic of yarn. In quality monitoring it plays a crucial role nowadays. Importance of irregularity arises from the following factors Strength of Yarn Better strength realisation from fibre can be achieved if regularity of yarn is improved. The uneven one should have more thin regions than the even one as the result of irregularity, since the average linear density is the same. Thus an irregular yarn will tend to break more easily during spinning, winding, weaving, knitting or any other process.

Impact of Unevenness on Quality

Fabric Appearance Irregularity has a profound influence on appearance of yarn and fabric. More regular the yarn, better will be the appearance and aesthetic value of the product. As a result, better sale value can be achieved. Neps can influence the appearance of woven or knitted fabrics quite considerably.

When the yarn evenness exceeds certain limits, it will result in a cloudy fabric appearance.

Impact of Unevenness on Quality

Fabric Defects and Rejections Fabric defects and rejections are critically influenced by irregularity of yarns. Defects such as streaks, stripes, barre, or other visual groupings develop in the cloth. Such defects clearly apparent to eye and are usually compounded when the fabric is dyed or finished, as a result of the twist variation accompanying them. Periodic irregularities in yarn result in warp way streaks and weft bars in woven fabrics leading to fabric rejections.

 Image of Fabric with Strippes

Impact of Unevenness on Quality

Fabric Feel Regularity contributes to a smoother feel. In apparel and most of other textiles, smoothness is most desired characteristic. Sale value of fabric is dependent, among other things, on smoothness. Luster Effect Other fabric properties such as abrasion or pillresistance, soil retention, drape, absorbency, reflectance, or luster may also be directly influenced by yarn evenness.

Impact of Unevenness on Quality

Productivity During winding even yarns give more production efficiency. Uster cuttings less. Because of the lower incidence of weak places, fewer end breaks are encountered with regular yarns in weaving preparatory, weaving and knitting. Efficiency in these processes is improved leading to higher productivity.