Tel:3353

20002

1-1

1-2

1-3


1.

1)

1-31-4

200

1400320050KM

1-4

454005000

1000

3)
32.7%

2.
1
2 10-3
3

3.
1

1000
3.2~3.7%3.5%.
0.328533kg

2
4

2
3

Cl , SO , HCO3 , CO , OH , F , Na , Ca , Mg , K

COCO2H 2

Ph>7

485104 km

41
3991013132
44

1
560km300km

7.8 104 km

870km570km
41.2 104 km 5

192km
8.2 104 km
33 104 km

1300km,740km
77 104 km

3330km1670km

360 104 km,3

2078
40

80

349

2719

1140

5420

3000M

0023"

0121"

150
160m

2000m

3~ 4

789


66

8k
30k

75%

10-3

(1)1950

(2)19602512

1.94
11
(3)197075

4530
3.916517.04

(4) 19724.7281971
8.99

(5)1975228
1950673.4

(6)1985
35


1 1950~1966
21966~1980
1978

--

31980~
160010%

13-1

1.

2.
3.

1.

2.
3.

1-5

1-6

10

20
M

30

----

----
5 mb2.5 mb
(1mb=3/4 mmHg)

2
1


1
1

P2

P2
v
f

fc
P1

P1

2-1

2-2

L
2-3

2-4

--710.8~
17.1m/s
---8-1117.2~
32.6m/s
--12
32.6m/s


200~300km
R100km

5~30km,
0

3-8

P,V

Vmax

S
R

P0
(3)

(2)

(1)

2-5

P P

P0

r0

Pmb (1mb=3/4mmHg)

(mb)

P0Pc(mb)

r0 km
r0

P0

1
P P

rdp
U r sin r sin
dr
2

7.292 10 5 /

rkm

1.26 10 3 g / cm3

dp
dr r
rdp
U
R 2r0
dr

U m ax

2P0

U max 5.7 P0


P0=1005mb;Pc=970mb
P0 35 mb ;

1005

P=1002.6
A

1002.5

r =214km

1000

r0

214

14.2km

1002.6

970
35

2. 4

R 2r0 20.1km

U m ax 5.7 P 5.7 35 31.3m / s

5
NNNE
NEENEEESESESSESSSWSWWSW
WWNWNWNNE

20m/s,4m/s
2m/s

Beanfort


1
1

Vn ln z n ln z0 K 0
V1
ln z1 ln z0
100m
K0

Z00.001~ 0.15m.

Z m
Vz
(
)
V10
10

VzZ
Z

100m
m1/15-1/4m=1/7

2
1
p
Vg
2 sin n

Vs 0.01T 0.70 Vg

V10 m in
0.056 ln t 0.64
Vt

V10min

1.0

V5min

1.05

Vm

1.16

V3s

1.37

Vt kV10 m in

3s gust wind velocitv

F Fxi Fyj Fzk p.n.ds

s

F pcA

1
2

2
g

Fd 1 V 2Cd Ap

2
1
Fl
V 2Cl Ap
2

AP
C d
Cl


1API[American Petroleum Institute]

F 0.00256V 2Cs A

English Units

F 0.00473V 2Cs A

Metric Units

F Ib or N
Cs,
A S..m or S.ft
v, m/h or km/h API

Cs=1.5

Cs=1.5

Cs=0.5
API
m=1/13 m=1/8

2ABS[American Bureau of Shipping]

F 0.00623V ChCs A

English Units

F 0.00338V ChCs A

Metric Units

F kg or Ib
Cs,
Ch, ;

A S..m or S.ft ;
v m/s or knotm

BSHeight (feet)

Ch

0-50

1.00

50-100

1.10

100-150

1.20

150-200

1.30

200-250

1.37

250-300

1.43

300-350

1.48

350-400

1.52

400-450

1.56

450-500

1.60

500-550

1.63

BS

ABS,LR
0.5

ZC

NV

0.5

BV
0.6

1.0

1.0

1.0

1.5

1.0

1.0

1.0

1.5

1.0

1.3

1.3

1.5

1.0

1.5
1.25

1.5
1.25

2.0

1.0

ABS ZC
LR NV
BV

3Zc[]
1
F
ChCsV 2 A
16

fi

i 1

fi r

i 1

H
SWL

d
L

d
d/

H 1 H 1 H 1
P
3
10

F% H F %
4 1
H F % H ln
F
H max 0.707H 1

1
2

ln N
3

d/L
d/L1/21/2 ~ 1/10
1/10 ~ 1/251/25 ~

1
Airy

tokes

0 : RotV 0
t

u:
v:
w
x
y
z


u z u y u x u z u y u x
i
k
RotV V

j
y z z x x y
u x u y u z
V

x y z

i j k
x y
z

u i
j k
x
y
z

( V ) 0
t

dV 1
F P
dt

uler
P Pat
agrange 1 2 2
2
(u v w )
gz 0
t 2

at

1 2
(u v 2 w 2 ) g 0
t 2

w z

z d

z
t x x y y

z 0

z 0
t
z
2

g
z 0 0
2
t
z

H
k=2/L, 2 2 cos(kx t )
( z , x, t ) A( z ) sin(kx t )
A(z)

gH
( z , x, t )
sin(kx t )
2
2 kg : L0 gT 2 / 2

L0
C0

gL0
gT

2
2

gH chk ( d z )
( z , x, t )
sin(kx t )
2
chkd
gT 2
2
kgthkd : L
thkd
2
gL0
L
gT
C

thkd
thkd
T
2
2

kgH chk ( d z )
u

cos(kx t )
x
2
chkd

kgH shk ( d z )
w

sin(kx t )
z
2
chkd
u kgH chk ( d z )
ax

sin(kx t )
t
2
chkd
w
kgH shk ( d z )
az

cos(kx t )
t
2
chkd


x0,z0)

( x x0 ) 2
( z z0 ) 2

1
2
2
A
B
H chk ( d z 0 )
A
2
shk d
H shk ( d z 0 )
B
2
shk d

1ABz0=0
B=H/2z0=-dB=0
2dAB=Hexp(kz0)/2
3Z0=-L,exp(-2)=1/535,ci Z0=-L/2
,exp(-)=1/23d>L/2

Wave Profile
SWL

2
u

t
2

t
2

ax

az

2
t

1/20<d/L<1/2
d/L>1/2
d/L<1/20
H 2 c os(k x t ) H 2 c os

Cg

L gT

ax
az

th(kd)

H ch(k ( z d ))
cos
T
sh (kd)
H sh (k ( z d ))
w
sin
T
sh (kd)
Hg ch(k ( z d ))
ax
sin
L
ch(kd)
Hg sh (k ( z d ))
az
cos
L
sh (kd)
ch(k ( z d ))
P g
gz
ch(kd)
HC ch(k ( z d ))

sin
2
sh (kd)
u

th(kd)

gT
L

H kz
u
e cos
T
H kz
w
e sin
T
C

a x 2 H e kz sin
T
2

C gd
L T gd
H g
cos
2 d
H
z
w
(1 ) sin
T
d
H
ax
gd sin
T

z
kz
a z 2 H e cos a z 2 H 1 cos
T d
T
P g z
P g e kz gz
2

HC kz
e sin
2

Hg
sin
2

D/L0.2

Drag force ,

Lateral force

2
Drag force ,

Inertial force
Lateral force


D/L0.2

Diffraction


Morrison
D/L<0.2x,z)

f ( x, z, t ) f I ( x, z, t ) f D ( x, z, t )

D 2
4

CM

u ( x, z, t ) 1
CD D u ( x, z, t ) u ( x, z, t )
t
2

CM-- Inertia Coefficient)

Cd--Drag Coefficient)
u(x,z,t)
D

D 2 u

f I 1 ( x, z , t )

pds
s

f I 2 ( x, z , t )

D 2
4

Cm

4
u
t

C M 1 Cm
CmAdded mass coefficient)
2 CD

F f ( x, z , t ) dz
d

f ( x, z , t ) ( d z ) dz


1 CD CM
CD CM

CD

CM

1.0

2.0

2.0

2.19

1.41D

1.55

1.0

2.01

0.75D*D

1.2

0.75D*D

0.5

1.50

1.05

1.67

D*D


1
u

H chk ( d z )

cos(kx t )

T
shkd
u
2 2 H chk ( d z )

sin(kx t )
2
t
T
shkd

2
f ( x, z , t )

D 2
4

CM

u 1
C D D u u
t 2

X
dz

f
d
z

FH

f ( x, z , t ) dz

M O'

f ( x, z , t ) (d z ) dz

FH

D 2
4

CM

2 2 H chkz
sin dz
2
T
shkd

1
H chkz 2
CD D(
) cos cosdz
2
T shkd

FH FD max cos cos FImax sin


FD m ax C D

H 2 K1

90

D 2
FIm ax C M
HK 2
D/L
8
2k ( d ) sh 2k ( d )
K1
8sh 2k d
shk ( d )
K2
chk d

M H M D m ax cos cos M Imax sin

kx t

M HD m ax C D
M H Imax CM

D
k

H 2 K3

D 2
8k

HK 4

1
{2[k ( d )]2 2k ( d ) sh 2k ( d ) ch2k ( d ) 1}
32sh 2kd
1
K4
{k ( d ) shk ( d ) chk ( d ) 1}
chkd
K3

FH ( FD max cos cos FImax sin )

2FD max cos sin FImax cos

0

cos 0
cos

FImax
b
sin

FD m ax 0.5FImax
cos
2 FD m ax
FD max 0.5 FIm ax FH max

cos 0 x=0 kx t

2
4

FI FImax , FD max 0 FH max FImax

 FD max 0.5FImax , sin sin(t ) 1, (a)(b)

FH max FImax
FD max 0.5FImaxFH max sin

FH m ax FD m axco s FIm ax
2

FIm ax 2
FD m ax[1 (
) ]
2 FD m ax

FIm ax
2 FD m ax

cos
cos

1,

o
u

u
t

FI
FD

u x
u x
t

CD C M

61m 4.88m

H 1 3 =5.76 H m ax 2.0 H1 310.7s

H m ax FH
1

gT 2
L0
178 .6(m)
2

2
2

gT
L
thkd L=174.29(m)
2

3 D/L=4.88/174.29=0.03<0.2
Morrison
4 FIm ax FD m ax, FH

D 2 2kd sh (2kd )

H
2
8sh (2kd )
1.025 4.88
1 .0
(11.52) 2
2
2 61

sh (4.39)

174.3

8 sh (4.39)

45.3(t )

FD m ax C D

FImax Cm

D 2
8

ch(kd )
H
sh (kd )

1.025 4.882 11.52 ch2.2

2 .0

8
sh 2.2
210.15(t )

FImaxFD max, FH max

T
t
4
FH max FImax 210.5(t )

gH chkz i ( kxt )
I i
e
2 chkd

I
D

n
n

3
I
D
4
5

p ( x, z , t )

F p( x, z, t )nds
s

2 gH shk (d )
FH

f A cos(t a)
2
k
chkd

2 gH
fA
k ( d ) shk ( d ) chk ( d ) 1
MH

3
k
chkd
cos(t a)
f AaD / L

Longuet-Higgins

N=1
N=2
N=3
N=4

(t )

a
n 1

cos( n t n )

 n ~ n

1
2
an S ( n )
2

S
P-M

S ( ) 8.110 g
3

g 4
exp[0.74(
) ]
V

S()

S(p)

1
2