PERIODS DURING THE19TH CENTURY

1THE DICRECTOIRE PERIOD- 1790\ 1820

2- THE ROMANTIC PERIOD- 1820\1850

3- THE CRINOLINE,VICTORIAN 1850\1869

4- THE BUSTLE PERIOD -1870\ 1900

TIME LINE FOR 19th CENTURY WOMENS FASHION

(1825) The large puffed sleeves were fashionable from 1825-1840.

(1825-1850) The Romantic Era

(1840) Stiff horse-haired petticoats were sold. (1850-1870) Hoop Era.

(1856) The Hoop became popular for ladies to wear.

(1873) The First Bustle was born. (1887) The bustle grew very great in size.

(1890) Belle Epoque period

(1895) The bustle had all but disappeared and the fashion of puffed sleeves had returned from the 1830's. (1900) Gowns were not so tight. They were lighter and airy.

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD MEN COSTUMES-1790\1820

Drawers made of linen or cotton Full sleeve Shirts with high standing collars made of linen or cotton The front of the shirt was generally pleated or ruffled Men wore cravat around the neck (square piece of fabric wrapped several times around the neck & tied in the front or at the back sometimes buckled. A coat & a waist coat beneath the coat Breeches or trousers Colors were light or dark Coat front ended at the waist & curved at the back & ended just above the knee Collar generally notch collar where it joined the lapel Some had velvet facing at the collar Closing is single or double breasted Some pockets were located in the pleats of the tail coat or at the waist Some coats had false pocket Breeches ended till knee Trousers extended till ankle The full trousers were called as Cossacks(which was based on the dress of Russian soldiers For outdoor Spenser's (short jacket with sleeve or sleeveless but in contrast color)were worn by both men and women .but men preferred wearing coat with a suit

Hair & Headdress

Short hair & clean shaved,but side whiskers were long Top hats were the predominant hat style The bicorne hat was worn which was two pointed which face front & back or sometime on side to side.these hats were called as cha peau bras(hat for men) Hats were made of silk,wool Shoes or boots Gloves were short made of cotton or leather Hand carried accessory magnifying glasses & canes Men wore rings watch & decorative brooches worn on the shirt or neck cloth.

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD women COSTUMES-1790\1820

Corsets( commonly known as stays) Light weight Chemise as under clothing made of cotton or linen Gowns Set in sleeve with a gusset under the arm Low square neck Drawers which is easily open through crotch area Sometime petticoats over the chemise Skirts were narrow(fairly straight) & reached to the floor Pantalettes (drawers trimmed with rows of lace or tucks) were worn till 1809 Bustlelike padded rolls were placed at the back at the waistline to give a forward slant to the body which was known as Grecian bend. Generally dresses open in the front to show their elaborate & decorated petticoat but in the evening dresses it was closed. The outer bodice is closed in front by wrapping it across the bosom like a shawl or lacing it up the front over a short undershirt called habit shirt or sometime buttoning it down the front. Higher neckline had small ruffles or with a drawstring that tied around the neck The dresses had puffed or fitted sleeve Even long sleeves were either fitted or full, some long sleeves were tied into the sections of short puffs Light weight cotton & linnen muslins & soft silks were used The undecorated plain white gowns (Grecian Style) were also fashionable along with variety of delicate embroidered gowns

women COSTUMES-1790\1820
For outdoor over dresses shawls, stoles,cloaks & capes were worn. Shawls or stole were made in square shape The Spenser were worn The pelisse which is similar to a modern coat generally full length with empire silhoutte. Hair combed back from the face & gathered in coils at the back, while in the front it was arranged in soft curls Curly style called a la victime or a la tius Bonnets Lace caps called day caps(indoor) Shoes matching to dress or pelisses(a cloak, coat, or jacket lined or trimmed with fur) Shoes were made of leather ,velvet or satin with no heels Sometime boots & during bad weather women wore small platform of wood or steel that fastened over the shoes.

women COSTUMES-1790\1820
Accessesory - Long Gloves made of leather, silk,net Reticules or indispensibles were small handbags with drawstrings Fans & decorative handkerchiefs on other hand. Jewelry were necklaces,earings ,rings,small watches & brooches

THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD WOMEN COSTUMES-1790\1820

MEN COULD NO LONGER COMPETE WITH WOMEN IN IN THE ARENA OF FASHION, AS WOMENS CLOTHING WAS MORE COMPLICATED AND MORE SUBJECT TO CHANGE
DURING THE PERIOD MOST OF THE WOMEN WORE HEAVY GARMENTS,WHICH REQUIRED A FRAME INSIDE
EVEN A CORSET PLAYED A VERY IMPORTANT ROLE, WHICH THE LADIES WORE ON TOP OF THE CHEMISE IT WAS DESIGNED IN A WAY To GIVE SHAPE TO HIP

ANWAIST

PANTALETTES WERE THE UNDERMOST GARMENT A LADY WOULD WEAR, IT IS KNEE LENGTH, AND IS USUALLY DECORATED WITH TUCKS AND FLOUNCES AND WERE MADE OF SILK AND LINEN AND ANOTHER UNDERGARMENT WHICH WAS WORN BY THEM WAS A CHEMISE

CORSETS

DRESS- 1803

1810

RIDING SUIT- 1810

Court dress- mid 1820s

DAY DRESS- 1822

Children wear
For girls dresses were almost the same as the adult women Wore pantalettes under dresses For outdoors girls wore shawls & pelisses Bonnets were among the most popular hat styles Girls wore slippers or soft boots made of leather or fabrics

Children wear
For boys usually wore skirts &trousers under the skirts till the age of 4 or 5. After age they wear loose shirt with side frilled collar & ankle length trousers After age 11 or 12 the dresses were similar to the men During cold weather they wore overcoats Boys hair was either long or short They wore slippers or soft boots