 Wool is the fiber derived from the hair of

animals of the Caprinae family, principally

Sheep, but the hair of certain species of
other mammals such as goats, llamas and
rabbits may also be called wool.
 Wool has two qualities that distinguish it
from hair or fur: it has scales which overlap
like shingles on a roof and it is crimped; in
some fleeces the wool fibers have more
than 20 bends per inch.
 In the thirteenth century, the wool trade was the
economic engine of the Low Countries and of Central
Italy; by the end of the following century Italy
predominated.
 Due to decreasing demand with increased use of
synthetic fibers, wool production is much less than what
it was in the past.
 The collapse in the price of wool began in late 1966 with
a 40% drop; with occasional interruptions, the price has
tended down.
• Sheep were one of the first animals domesticated by
humans. These sheep looked very different from
modern animals. They had a long hair-like outer guard
layer with a more downy insulation layer underneath
resembling what we think of as wool. They shed this
coat in the spring. Primitive people collected the fiber
finding it to be of great use, learned to spin. Thus the
wool industry was born.
• The first sheep were brought to the North American
continent in 1493 on the second voyage of Columbus
• New England was the first area to establish a
spinning and weaving industry. Initially begun in
homes, later in small factories, it continued to
grow. Eventually the first water powered textile
factories were established in 1788.
• The industry was greatly boosted during the Civil
War by a great demand for wool to make
soldier's uniforms. Breeders use imported
Merino sheep to improve native stock to help
meet the demand
Today
• Wool is 5% of the world's textile
industry.
• Most of our domestic breeds produce 4-
5 times more wool than sheep initially
brought to the United States greatly due
to the influence of the Merino.
• All domestic wool produced finds use in
a variety of products. However,
because of defects, contamination, and
other quality problems, it is of lower
value than some imported wool.
• Mills rely on imported wool to maintain
operation (about 76%).

• The mills require higher quality fiber to

maximize production due to modern
methods and equipment.
 Other Wool Producing
Countries

Australia, Argentina, New Zealand,

Russia, Republic of South Africa, Great
Britain, China, and U.S.A.
The quality of wool is determined by the breeding, Climate,
food, general care and health of the sheep.

• Cold weather produced a hard and heavy fiber

• Poor or insufficient food retards growth.
• It has soft resiliency power and it is also used to make rugs
and blankets.
• The chief wool producing countries are Australia, U.S.S.R.,
New Zealand, Argentina, South-Africa and the United States
(U.S.A.).
• The chief constituent of wool fiber is a protein substance
called ‘Keratin’ and it is the only fiber which contains
‘Sulphur’.
 CLASSIFICATIONS FOR WOOL

• Wool may be classified by two types: 1. Classification by sheep

2. Classification by fleece
 Classification by Sheep:-

 There are over 200 grades of wool producing sheep.

– Merino Wool:- Produced from Merino Sheep and the

fibres are very fine, strong and elastic.

– Class two Wools:- Originated in Scotland, Ireland and

Wales.

– Class three Wools:- Originated in the UK, generally are

less elastic and resilient.

– Class four Wools:- Obtained from Mongrel Sheep, are

coarse and hairlike.
 Classification by Fleece (Based on the shearing of the
fleece):-
– Lamb’s Wool: About 6-8 to months.

– Hogget Wool: About 12-14 months.

– Wether Wool: Any fleece clipped after the first shearing of

sheep.

– Pulled Wool: The shearing done by a chemical depilatory

like lime before it is slaughtered for meet.

– Dead Wool: The shearing is done over the dead sheep

– Cotty Wool: The wool obtained from any sheep of severe

weather condition.
 1. CLASSIFICATION BY SHEEP

• 1. CLASS I WOOL (OR) MERINO

WOOL

• Merino sheep of Spain produce

the best quality wool which is
strong, fine elastic and has good
working properties.

• It has the greatest amount of

crimp of all wool fibers and has a
maximum number of scales to
give maximum warmth and
spinning qualities.

Spain is the only country which

produced fine wool known as
‘merino wool’.
 2. CLASS II WOOL

• It is obtained from the sheep from England, Scotland, Ireland and Wales.

• It is 2 to 8 inches in length, has a large number of scales per inch and has
good crimp.

• The fibers are strong, fine , elastic and have good working properties.

• It is not as good as merino wool, but nevertheless it is very good quality

wool.
 3. CLASS III WOOL

• This class of sheep originated in United Kingdom.

• The fibers are 4 to 8 inches long, are coarser and have fewer scales and
less crimp than Merino Wool and
class II wool.

• They are smoother and have more luster.

•
• They are less elastic and resilient.

• They are nevertheless of good enough quality to be used for clothing.

 4. CLASS IV WOOL

• This class is actually a group of Mongrel sheep sometimes referred to as

half-breeds.

• The fibers are 1 to 16 inches long are coarse and hair like, have relatively
few scales and little crimp and therefore smoother and more lustrous.

• It has least elasticity and strength and used mainly for carpets, rugs and
inexpensive low-grade clothing.
 STRUCTURE OF WOOL
 The Cortex of the wool fibre is composed of two
distinct sections, Ortho cortex and Para cortex.

 The Microscopic structure of wool has following parts:

Cuticle
Macro Fibril
Micro Fibril
Proto Fibril
Wool Polymer
 Structure
• Epicuticle- thin outer membrane covering
the cuticle
• Cuticle- protective layer of overlapping
flattened cells called scales
• Cortex- major component of wool fiber,
inner layer
• Medulla- the central core found primarily in
medium and coarse wool
 PHYSICAL PROPOERTIES
• The physical properties of the wool refers to the strength,
thermal nature, etc.
• The various physical properties are:
Tenacity
Elastic and Plastic Nature
Hydroscopic Nature
Heat of Wetting
Thermal Properties
•TENACITY
Wool is comparatively a weak fiber.
The low Tensile strength of wool is due to the relatively few
Hydrogen Bonds that are formed.
When Wool absorbs moisture, the water molecules gradually
force enough polymers apart cause a significant no. of
hydrogen molecules to break.
Breakage and Hydrolysis of these Inter
Polymer forces of attraction are apparent as swelling of fiber
and result in further loss of tenacity, when wool is wet.
• Elastic and Plastic Nature
Wool has very good Elastic recovery and excellent
Resiliency (ability to withstand elastic force).
This is because of Helical structure of arrangement
of monomer or due to the helical polymeric
configuration of wool.
• HYDROSCOPIC NATURE
Wool is a very Absorbent fiber due to the
Amorphous nature of polymer system. In relatively
dry weather, wool develops static electricity. This is
because there are not enough water molecules in
the polymeric system to dissipate any static
electricity which is being developed.
• HEAT OF WETTING
Wool is renowned for its ability to give off small but steady
amount of heat while absorbing moisture. This is known as
Heat of Wetting.
It is considered to be due to energy given off by the
collision between water molecules and the groups in the
wool polymer system. This friction is severe and thereby
liberates energy.
Thus, wearer feels slightly warm when the wool fabric
absorbs moisture.
• Crimp
• Caused by the unique chemical and physical
properties of wool. The fiber tends to bend and turn
in to a resilient 3 dimensional structure. It holds in air
to insulate the wearer. This property make wool
naturally elastic and resilient causing rapid wrinkle
recovery, durability, bulk, loft, warmth, and resistance
to abrasion.
• Water Absorbency
• Wool can absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture
without feeling damp or clammy. This makes wool
good for all climates since it aids in the body's cooling
mechanisms to keep moisture away from the skin.
• Resistance to Fire
• Wool contains moisture in every fiber allowing
it to resist flame without any additional
chemical treatment. The wool will just char
and self extinguish.
• Dyeability
• Wool absorbs many dyes deeply, uniformly,
and directly without the use of chemicals.
This characteristic allows wool to achieve
very beautiful and rich colors when dyed.
• Durability
• The flexibility of wool makes it very durable. A single
wool fiber can be bent back on itself more than 20,000
times without breaking. Compare this to the only
3,000 times of cotton and 2,000 times of silk. Its
elasticity makes it very resistant to tearing. Wool also
has an outer film making it resistant to abrasion.
• Resilience
• Wool fiber can be stretched up to 50% of its length
when dry and up to 30% of its length when wet without
breaking It will return to its original length when
released.
 CHEMICAL PROPERTIES
• EFFECT OF ACIDS AND ALKALIS
Wool is resistant to Acids than to Alkalis because
alkalis hydrolysis the Peptide group( -[CONH]- )
Wool is not at all resistant to alkalis.
Wool, when submerged into high quantity of high
concentrations of acids, gets weakened.
• EFFECT OF BLEACHES
 Wool is treated with Reducing Bleaches such as
 Sodium sulphide  Sodium Bisulphide
which converts the color producing component of the fabric to
colorless compound.
 After this, Oxidizing bleach such as Hydrogen Peroxide is applied
which converts compounds into water soluble compounds.
 After this, the wool fibre is rinsed off and a permanent bleach is
obtained.
The dyes used in wool are : Acid dyes, Mordant dyes, Reactive
dyes, etc.
 The hair of the sheep is trimmed first.

 The raw wool or newly sheared wool

called grease wool because it contains
the natural oil of the sheep.
 Sorting & Grinding:-

– Wool sorting is done by skilled

workers who are experts in
distinguishing by touch and sight.

– Determined by type, length,

fineness, elasticity and strength.
 Garnetting:-

– Separating the used and unused

materials to a fibrous mass by
picking and shredding.
– Fibres are then put into a dilute
solution of Sulphuric Acid to
remove vegetable fibres is called
Carbonizing.
 Scouring:-

– Raw wool is scoured by

washing it in a solution
of soap, warm water
and soda ash or any
other alkali.
– This removes the
grease and oil in wool
and makes it absorbent
to dye.
 Drying:-

– Wool is not allowed to dry

completely, 12-16% of
moisture is left over.
 Oiling:-

– Wool is treated with oil to

lubricate it and to keep it from
becoming brittle.
 Blending:-

– Wool of different grades may

be blended in this stage.
 Carding:-

– Fibres are passed through rollers covered with

thousands of wire teeth to orient the fibres parallel.
– This separates the woolen yarns and worsted yarns.
 Gilling and Combing:-

– The gilling process removes the short staple and

straightens the fibres.
– Combing operation removes the shorter fibres and
places long fibres parallel to each other.
CARDING
PROCESS
 Drawing:-

– Makes the sliver

compact and thin
by doubling and
redoubling the
wool fibre.
 Roving:-
– It is a process to hold the thin
slubbers intact.

– The fiber passes between the

rollers, over the coarse wire teeth of
the first card clothing, and over
progressively finer toothed card
clothing.

– the fiber that leaves the machine

are in the form of untwisted ropes
known as ‘ROVINGS’.

WOOL- After ROVING

 Spinning:-
– Roved wool is drawn out and
twisted into yarn.

– Woolen yarns are spun on mule

spinning machine.

– Worsted yarns are spun on any

kind of spinning machines.
SPUN WOOL YARNS
MACHINE SPINNING SPINNING WHEEL
 FINISHES USED
• Fulling
• Crabbing
• Decating: It includes two processes
4. Dry Decating
5. Wet Decating
• London shrinking
 Wool Blends
Wool is blended with a wide variety of fibres.
Wool and Cotton
Wool is blended with cotton in various ratios. The
properties of the yarns and fabrics will be affected by the
proportions of the fibres blended. Wool contributes
warmth, resilience, abrasion resistance, and drapability.
Cotton adds strength and reduces the cost of yarn and
fabric. Both fibres are absorbent and can be blended to
make a comfortable, durable fabric with a nice hand.
• Wool and Linen
Wool is sometimes blended with linen. Linen may be
used in such a blend which is stronger than a pure wool
fabric, but is more resilient and drapable than a pure
linen fabric.
 GRADES OF WOOL
In order for wool to be sold in International Trade, methods of
expressing grades for raw wool have been devised. On the World
Market, grade is expressed by a Number System.
The Finer the wool, the Higher the number.

Comparative Grading Systems

• Fine 80s,70s, 64s
• Half-blood 62s, 60s, 58s
• Three-eighths blood 56s
• Quarter-blood 50s, 48s
• Low-quarter blood 46s
• Common 44s
• Braid 40s, 36s
 SOURCES OF WOOL
 Large wool producing and exporting nations are:
• Australia ( 50s- 80s)
• New Zealand ( 40s – 60s and carpet grade)
• South Africa ( 60s – 70s and carpet grade)
• Argentina ( 40s – 60s, 64s and carpet grade)

 Countries contributing to greatest amount of carpet wool

to world market are:
Argentina, India, Pakistan, New Zealand, Syria, Iraq and
Iran.
 BENEFITS OF WOOL

• Resists Wrinkles
• Retains Shape
• Resists Soiling
• Resists Flames
• Wool is Durable
• Wool is comfortable in all seasons
• Repels Moisture
 APPLICATIONS OF WOOL
Wool is used in the manufacture of various
Products like:
• Boots
• Carpet
• Blankets
• Sweaters
• Coats
• Seat covers
• Bed sheets
• Cushion covers
• Curtains
 MANUFACTURING PROCESS OF WOOL
(in detail)

• 1. Preparation
• 2. Sorting and Grading
• 3. Garneting
• 4. Scouring
• 5. Carbonizing
• 6. Drying
• 7. Oiling
• 8. Dyeing
• 9. Blending
• 10.Carding
• 11.Gilling and Combing
• 12.Drawing
• 13.Roving
• 14.Spinning
 1. PREPARATION

• Fleeces vary from 6 to 18 pounds

(3-8Kg) in weight and provides 3
lbs (1.5Kg) of scoured wool.

• Wool is sorted and graded

according to the quality, then
trimmed, rolled up, tied and
packed in sacks weighing about
225-350 lbs (100-160Kg).

• Superior wool comes from the

sides and shoulders of sheep
where it is longer, finer and softer
and it is treated as one fleece.

• Wool from the head, chest, belly

and shanks is treated as a second
fleece.
• Then wool reaches the mill in bags.

• The raw wool or newly sheared wool is called grease wool as it contains the
natural oil of the sheep.
 2. SORTING AND GRADING

• Wool sorting is done by expert

skilled workers who distinguish the
different qualities by touch and
sight.

• Twenty different grades are

obtained from one fleece.

• Each grade is determined by type,

strength, length, fineness,
elasticity and strength.
•
• The grading system on the world
market is based upon the British
numbering system which relates
the fineness or diameter of wool,
etc.
 3. GARNETING

• Recycled wool fibers are obtained

by separately reducing the unused
and used materials to a fibrous
mass by a picking and shredding
process called garneting.

• The fibers are then put through a

dilute solution of sulphuric acid or
hydrochloric acid which destroys
any vegetable fiber that may be
contained in the raw stock. This
process is known as ‘Carbonizing’
and the resultant wool fibers are
called “extracts”.

• The new staple ranges from ¼ to

11/2 inch in length.
 4. SCOURING

• “A thorough washing of raw wool

in an alkaline solution is called
scouring.”
• The scouring machine contains
warm water, soap and a mild
solution of soda-ash or other alkali
and is equipped with automatic
rakes which stir the wool.
Rollers between the vats squeeze
out the water.
Valuable by products are obtained
from the spent liquors in the
scouring of wool.

The most important by product is

lanolin which is largely used in
manufacture of cosmetics, adhesive
plasters, disinfectants, ointments,etc.
 5. CARBONIZING

• Fibers are put in Hydrosulphuric

acid or Hydrochloric acid solution
to destroy vegetable substance.

•If the wool still contains and

vegetable substance after scouring, it
is put through carbonizing process
which burns out the foreign matter.
 6. DRYING

• Wool is not allowed to become

absolutely dry. Usually about 12-
16% of the moisture is left in the
wool for further handling.
 7. OILING

• Wool becomes unmanageable

after scouring, the fiber is usually
treated with various oils, including
animal, vegetable and mineral or a
blend of these to keep it from
becoming brittle and to
lubricate(oil) it for
the spinning operation.
 8. DYEING

• If wool is to be dyed in the raw

stock, it is dyed at this stage
whereas wool fabrics are piece-
dyed, yarn
skin dyed and some are top-dyed.
 9. BLENDING

• Wool of different grades may be blended or mixed at this stage.

• Inferior grade of wool mixed with better grades of wool or a small amount of
cotton is blended with a raw wool and a greater amount of twist is increase
the strength in the fabric.
•
• Manmade fibers such as nylon, polyester or acrylic may be blended with
wool and the wool helps in contribution of warmth, absorbency, drape and
handling.
 10. CARDING

• The carding process introduces

the classification of woolen yarns
and worsted yarns.

• At this point, of manufacturing

process, it should be decided
weather wool fiber is to be made
into a woolen or a worsted
product, because manufacturing of
woolen and worsted is different.
 11. GILLING AND COMBING

• The carded wool which is to be

made into worsted yarn is put
through gilling and combing
operations.

• The gilling process removes the

shorter fibers (called as combing
noils and of 1-4 inches in length)
and places
the longer fibers (tops) as parallel
as possible and further cleans the
fibers by removing any remaining
loose impurities.
•Combing noils (shorter fibers) are used for ordinary and less expensive fabrics
and tops (longer fibers) for manufacturing worsted fabrics as gabardine,
whipcord, serge and convert and produce fabrics with good colour, feel and
strength,
 12. DRAWING

• It is done only to worsted yarns. It

is an advanced operation which
doubles and redoubles slivers of
wool fibers. The process draws
and twists the fibers and makes
the slivers more compact and thin.
 13. ROVING

• It is the final stage before

spinning. It is a slight twisting
operation to hold the thin slubbers
(fibers) intact.
 14.SPINNING

• Here the wool roving is drawn out

and twisted into yarn.

• Woolen yarns are spun on mule

spinning machine. Worsted yarns
are spun on mule, ring, cap or
flyer kind of spinning.

• Two different systems to spin

worsted yarns – is English System
and French System:
 Difference between Woolen and Worsted Yarns
WOOLENS
1.Fibers are short (2”length)
2. Woolen yarns are only carded, less
twisted and hence weak in strength.
3. Woolen fabrics are woven with plain
weave and sometimes twill weave.
Weaving is not compact and fabric is
not durable or strong.
4.Woolen fabrics are soft, fuzzy, thick and
warm but not durable.
5. Woolen can be easily adulterated and
napping finish is given to produce
soft surface.
6. Less expensive than worsted.
8. -These fibers are more warmer than
worsted. -It has no luster and
is less durable. -The
napped surface tends to catch and
hold dirt but stains can be
easily removed.
WORSTED
1. Fibers are long (2-8 inches)
2. Worsted yarns are carded and combed,
highly twisted and more
strong.
3. Worsted fabrics are woven chiefly with
twill weave and weaving
construction is close and compact
and as such more strong fabric.
4. Worsted fabrics are flat, rough, harsh
when worn next to the skin, but more
durable.
5. Worsted can not be easily adulterated
as it has a hard finish on the surface.
6. More costlier or expensive than
woolens.
7. -It wrinkles less than woolen, holds
creases and shape, and become
shiny with use
-They re amore durable and more
resistant to
 CUSHION COVERS

SWEATERS
 SHAWLS

CURTAINS
 SOCKS

BED SHEETS
CARPETS