Apparel Testing for the US Market

Regulated By US Government Flammability Care Labeling Content Labeling Discretionary Required by Retailers and Manufacturers Physical Testing Chemical Testing

U. S. Flammable Fabrics Act

Note Childrens sleepwear has special flammability regulations not in the scope of this work session.

16 CFR PART 1610 Flammability of Clothing Textiles

Does not apply to:

Hats

Gloves
Footwear Interlining Fabrics

TWO CATEGORIES OF FABRIC

A. Plain Surface Fabrics 1. Average burn time less than 3.5 seconds = CLASS 3 2. Average burn time more than 3.5 seconds = CLASS 1 Raised Surface Fabrics 1. Average burn time less than 4.0 seconds = CLASS 3 2. Average burn time between 4.0 - 7.0 seconds = CLASS 2 3. Average burn time more than 7.0 seconds = CLASS 1

B.

EXEMPTIONS
A. Plain Surface Fabrics - Any fabric greater than 2.6 oz/yd2 - Any fabric made entirely from any of the following fibers or combinations thereof: Acrylic, Mod Acrylic, Nylon, Olefin, Polyester, Wool B. Raised Surface Fabrics - Any fabric made entirely from any of the following fibers or combinations thereof: Acrylic, Mod Acrylic, Nylon, Olefin, Polyester, Wool

U. S. Flammable Fabrics Act

Very Dangerous Fabrics!

Raised Surface Fabrics Such As:
Flannelette Fleece Corduroy Velvet Velveteen Velour Terry Cloth Chenille Imitation Furs

THREE CLASSIFICATIONS
Class 1 - Normal Flammability Class 2 - Intermediate Flammability Class 3 - Rapid and Intense Burning

Class 1 and Class 2 can be sold in the USA.

STR does not recommend class II be entered into the

US Market

Soft Home Textiles Additional Flammability Tests

These are not regulated - but are industry standards. Bedding ASTM D4151 Curtains NFPA 701-89 Decorative Pillows Cal. Tech. Bulletin 117, Section E Towels N/A

CARE LABELING REGULATION

CARE LABELING REGULATION

Current rule established in 1984. Referred to as 16 CFR Part 423. Administrated by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC). Reasonable Basis : A manufacturer or importer MUST establish a Reasonable Basis for Care information on a label prior to sale.

CARE LABELING REGULATION

What must be stated on a Care Label? (assume washable) - How to launder? (Machine or Hand Wash) - At what temperature (Hot, Warm, or Cold) - Bleaching Instruction - How to dry the item? (Line, Tumble, Flat Dry) - At what temperature (Hot, Medium or Low) - Does the item need ironing? - At what temperature (Hot, Warm, Cool, Steam or Without Steam)

CARE LABELING REGULATION

In order to satisfy all of these questions, the following tests are recommend:

Shrinkage and appearance after laundering Colorfastness to laundering

Colorfastness to chlorine bleach

Colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach

Regulatory Care and Content

Dimensional Changes

3 launderings - garments
Dry Cleaning Dimensional Stability - fabric washes / 1 Dry Cleaning) Appearance Evaluation Steam (3

AATCC 150
AATCC 158 AATCC 135 STR TP 0095 ASTM D2724 10.4.1

machine wash
Garment Stage Fabric Stage Satisfactory

Colorfastness to:

Dry Cleaning
Laundering Accelerated Chlorine Bleach (Not for Silk or items with Lycra or rubber)

AATCC 132
AATCC 61

Drycleaning

STR-TP 80 / spot test

4.0 Min.

Non-Chlorine Bleach

STR-TP 130 / spot test

4.0 Min.

CARE LABELING REGULATION

Care and Content Label Example

LETS LOOK AT THE AMERICAN CARE SYMBOLS Care symbols are not required but if they are used they must be correct.

WASHING

BLEACHING

DRYING

IRONING

DRY CLEANING

FIBER IDENTIFICATION
Content Labeling Microscopic Method (100%) Chemical Separation Mechanical Separation Microscopic Analysis (Cashmere)

Physical and Chemical Testing

Physical Testing
Physical Testing

Weight (oz/yd)

ASTM D3776

or ASTM 3887

Construction

ASTM D3775

+/-5% from Specifications

Bursting Strength (lbs.) - knits

ASTM D3786 (Mullen)

40 lb. min

Tensile Strength (lbs.) - woven

ASTM D1682

Under 3.0 oz/yd - 20.0 Min oz/yd - 25.0 Min.

Over 3.0

Seam Strength (lbs.) - garments Yarn Slippage Spirality/Torque after Wash

ASTM D1683 ASTM D434 AATCC 179

15.0 Min.

+/- 5%

Physical Testing
Pilling

Knit - ICI Pilling

ISO 12945-1

Woven - Martindale

ASTM D4970

100 cycles

Random Tumble (bean bag)

ASTM D3512

Chemical Testing
Formaldehyde Content 75 ppm maximum

Qualitative

STR TP01346

spot test

Sealed Jar Method

AATCC 112

Acetylacetone Method

JIS L 1041-83

174

pH test (white fabric only)

AATCC81

water extract

Chemical Testing
Colorfastness to:

Crocking

AATCC 8

Wet - 3.0 Min. Min.

Dry - 4.0

Perspiration

AATCC 15

3-Apr

Light (20 hours)

AATCC 16E

Q & A Session
If you have further questions please contact Ben DeVito at:

Ben.DeVito@STRQuality.com
Or visit our website www.STRQuality.com and sign up for our newsletter the STR Monitor Thank You