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Chipman

Fabric
Fabric influences the design, feel, and functionality of clothes
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Fabrics begin as fibers Natural Fibers Cotton Linen Wool Silk Man-made Fibers Polyester Rayon Nylon Acetate Acrylic Blends are a combination of fibers

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Characteristics of fibers help determine clothing use & care. How should you care for the fibers listed above? Find out the fiber content of your fabric before you buy it. Fibers are spun into yarns Yarns are made into fabrics and are classified as either woven, knitted, or non-woven.

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Woven Fabrics
Woven fabrics are made by interlacing two sets of yarns on a loom
Weft Yarns

WARP yarns run lengthwise parallel to the selvage edge stronger, least stretch, more densely packed than weft under tension when on loom Pattern grainline arrow pinned on warp grain parallel to selvage
WEFT yarns run crosswise perpendicular to the selvage edge sometimes, these are called filling yarns weaker, some stretch, under less tension on loom The SELVAGE is the tightly woven edge that runs the length of the fabric.

Selvage
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Warp Yarns

BIAS is any diagonal direction TRUE BIAS is a 45 degree angle bisecting the lengthwise and crosswise grain lines this is the only direction that stretches well in woven fabrics

Looms
Loom Schematic

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Dr. Burnham

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TYPES OF WEAVES Plain Weave

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The plain weave is the simplest weave Each weft or filling yarn goes alternately over and under each warp yarn Sturdiness influenced by yarn strength and by weave tightness Some fabrics created with a plain weave are: muslin voile, challis, and percale, many printed fabrics

TYPES OF WEAVES
Rib Weave

warp_and_weft_01.jpg housekeepingchannel.com 93295802_L9Zfy-M.jpg Type of a plain weave guntastolzl.org Yarn thickness varies thin yarns are used alternated with thick, slub, or mutliple yarns laid side-by-side Yarn variations can be in parallel or perpendicular yarns Thickness variation produces a ribbed or corded appearance Not as durable because yarns are more exposed Fabric examples: ottoman, bengaline

TYPES OF WEAVES
Basket Weave

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Variation of the plain weave Two or more weft or filling yarn go alternately over and under two or more warp yarns The yarns sit side-by-side they are not twisted together More loose, less stable, less durable than a plain weave Fabric Examples: hopsack, oxford cloth

TYPES OF WEAVES
Twill Weave

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A weave in which the weft yarn pass over and 2-4 warp yarns The weft yarn moves one warp yarn to the right each row giving the fabric a diagonal ridge The steeper the ridge, the stronger the fabric Usually a twill weave is stronger that a plane weave Examples: denim, gabardine

TYPES OF WEAVES
Herringbone Weave Some classify the herringbone weave as a sub-type of twill weave The diagonal ridge created by the weave changes directions you will see arrows or a chevron pattern on the fabric surface The arrow design shows up more if the warp and weft yarns are different colors

TYPES OF WEAVES
Satin Weave

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Warp yarns pass over 4-8 weft yarns in a staggered pattern Floats long warp yarns on the surface give satin its sheen Sateen weave is a variation of the Satin weave where the floats are made with the weft yarns Fabrics: satin , crepe backed satin, sateen

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TYPES OF WEAVES
Pile Weaves
Three yarns one warp and two weft The extra filling yarn is added to a traditional plain or twill weave Wires are used to pull the extra yarn into loops on the fabric surface Loops can be left terry cloth Loops can be cut plush fabric Loops can be sheared velvet

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TYPES OF WEAVES
Swivel Weave
an extra filling yarn is added to form a circle or other figure on the surface of a basic weave. Each swivel yarn is carried on the wrong side of the fabric from one design to the next, then cut when the fabric is completed. Readers Digest
Complete Guide to Sewing

Gauze Weave
(also called leno weave): An open mesh structure produced by a leno attachment on the loom. The leno continuously changes the position of the warp yarns so that they become twisted in figure eight fashion around the filling yarns. Readers Digest Complete Guide to Sewing
Marquisett is an example.

Example: Dotted Swiss

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TYPES OF WEAVES
Dobby Weave
A patterned structure, usually geometric in form, produced by a special attachment (dobby) on a plain-weave loom. The dobby raises and lowers certain warp yarns so that warp and weft interlace in a constantly changing pattern. Most familiar is the diamond shape
Readers Digest Complete Guide to Sewing

Jacquard Weave
A patterned structure, more complex than the dobby. By means of a jacquard attachment, warp and weft yarns can be controlled individually to create an intricate design. usually expensive because of the elaborate loom
Readers Digest Complete Guide to Sewing

Damask, brocade, and tapestry are examples

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Characteristics of Woven Fabrics

Woven fabrics tend to fray Woven fabrics do not have a lot of stretch on the lengthwise or crosswise grain; fabrics without a lot of give are less comfortable to wear
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Woven fabrics wear best and hand best when the warp yarns (lengthwise grain) is perpendicular to the ground

KNITTED FABRICS
Made using one or more yarns which are continuously looped with themselves Made on a knitting machine not a loom Yarn goes up and down the length of fabric as to goes across the fabric Knits tend to shrink more that woven fabrics the first time they are washed
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1. RIBS the lengthwise grain parallel to fabric length 2. COURSES the crosswise grain perpendicular to ribs 3. BIAS greatest stretch

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KNITTED FABRICS
Knits can be made flat or in a cylindrical shape. You can cut along the length of a rib to open a circular knit
Circular Knitting Machine Flat Knitting Maching

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KNITTED FABRICS
Single warp knit
Tricot Fabric

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KNITTED FABRICS
Double warp knit
Polyester Double Knit

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KNITTED FABRICS
Weft Knit
Jersey Single Knit

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Derived from hand knitting technique Weft knit with all loops pulled to the back side of the fabric Right side is smooth Lengthwise wales on right side Wrong side looks like a purl knit stitch More width-wise stretch than lengthwise stretch

Right side

Wrong side

KNITTED FABRICS
Rib Knit

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Rib knit fabric lays flatter the edges do not roll

CHARACTERISTICS OF KNITTED FABRICS

Knitted fabrics stretch more than woven fabrics there are more yarns per inch Knits conform to conservation of matter if stretched across, they become shorter; and if stretched lengthwise, they become narrower The cut edge of most knits will roll Some knits will run Does not fray

Non Woven Fabrics

Made from fibers not yarns Fibers are combined with an adhesive/liquid mixture and pressed to a given thickness Largest classification of fabrics Not generally used in clothing

Characteristics May tear Dont drape or roll No grain line Tend to be less expensive to manufacture and purchase Dont behave like a woven or knit Sometimes described as paper like

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Non Woven Fabrics

Felting is a process in which moisture, heat, and pressure are applied to short fibers, interlocking them in a matted layer. Wool is the primary fiber in felt fabric because it tends naturally to mat. Felts do not ravel, can be cut or blocked to any shape. They do, however, shrink when dampened and tear easily.
Readers Digest Complete Guide to Sewing

Felt

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Non Woven Fabrics

Fusing Fusing is similar to felting except that it employs a bonding agent to hold the fibers (usually cotton or rayon) together. The product can be a nonwoven fabric of the type used for interfacing or a web, which is itself a fusible bonding agent.
Readers Digest Complete Guide to Sewing fused-fabrics.gif allaboutapplique.net