FASHION PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT ELEMENT 2

Tayba Imran 12085402

MY TARGET MARKET
My target market was a young British Muslim girl who studies at university. I thought this would be the perfect diverse consumer as looking around the university there aren't many Muslim girls that cover themselves up as they are instructed to. This is why I have decided to make two similar A-line dresses as they would be loose and modest which would fit in perfectly with my theme. The aim is to make it look as innovative as possible.

3D PRINTING

The results of 3D printing are beautiful. It is more art than anything else. Depending on the print, majority of the garments are not wearable as they extremely fine and fragile so it is commonly used in jewellery.

LASER CUTTING

Laser cutting is an increasingly popular form of production as it is a very unique and innovative way of creating an exceptional range of clothes. It leaves the garments with intricate beautiful designs and is widely used amongst designers such as Alexander McQueen, Zac Posen and also been used for projects done by Victoria secrets.

BODY SCANNING

3d body scanning allows designers to tailor garments to specific measurements. This is a way to make garments for people with abnormal body shapes i.e. large hips and small waist, large bust and small hips, short etc. this is also developing within malls and certain designers and will defiantly earn a place in the market.

TECHNICAL DRAWINGS

PATTERN DEVELOPMENT

SIZING
I will be using this sizing chart in order to create my dresses. These are not my own measurements but I will use these as a guide.

DRESS FRONT

I started off with a normal dress hip block which was a size 12. I decided to tailor this dress to my friends size which was a size 10, for that I needed to grade the pattern. The book I decided to use was Grading for the Fashion Industry Third Edition by Martin M. Shoben.

I went to grade, create/edit rules and edit date.

A box then came up where I could start grading from. I then plotted the numbers instructed in the x and y axis and started to grade the pattern. In the x axis I plotted 0.7 and in y 0.1.

Middle of the arm hole X axis 0 Y axis 0.1

Bottom of the arm hole X axis 0 Y axis 0.8

Waist X axis -0.6 Y axis 0.8

Just below the waist X axis -0.6 Y axis 0.8

Hip hem X axis 0.6 Y axis .0.8

Hem X axis 0.6 Y axis 0.8

Hem X axis 0.6 Y axis -0.6

Lower neck line X axis -0.7 Y axis -0.5

Neck line X axis -0.5 Y axis -0.2

The front dress hip block graded from sizes 6-18

DRESS BACK

I again started off with a regular size 12 dress hip block for the back and graded it.

I went to grade, create/edit rules then edit grade.

Neck line X axis -0.6 Y axis 0.4

Centre back X axis 0 Y axis 0.4

Centre back X axis 0 Y axis 0.4

Centre back X axis 0 Y axis 0.3

Centre back X axis 0 Y axis 0.3

Centre back hem X axis 0.6 Y axis 0.3

Hem X axis 0.6 Y axis 0

Side Hem X axis 0.6 Y axis -0.8

Waist X axis 0 Y axis -0.8

Upper waist X axis 0 Y axis -0.8

Lower Arm hole X axis 0 Y axis -0.8

Middle of arm hole X axis 0 Y axis -0.2

Upper arm hole X axis 0 Y axis 0.2

Shoulder dart X axis -0.6 Y axis 0

Shoulder dart X axis -0.6 Y axis 0

Neck line X axis -0.6 Y axis -0.1

The back dress hip block graded from sizes 618

DRESS SLEEVE
I used a normal size 12 full sleeve to grade my pattern. I went to grade, create/edit rules, edit delta.

X axis 0 Y axis 0.8

X axis 0 Y axis 0.8

X axis 0.4 Y axis 0.8

X axis 0.4 Y axis 0.4

X axis 0.4 Y axis 0.4

X axis 0.4 Y axis 0.4

X axis 0.4 Y axis -1

X axis 0.4 Y axis -1

X axis 0 Y axis -1

X axis 0 Y axis -0.5

X axis -0.5 Y axis -0.2

X axis 0 Y axis 0.4

Sleeve block graded from sizes 6-18

CHANGING SIZE OF THE DRESS

To change the size of the dress I went to grade, edit size line then change base size

I decided to use size 10 as the my diverse consumer is a size 8, but being Muslim it is highly recommended to wear baggy clothes so that is why I have decided to go for a size bigger. You can grade and go from any size you like.

EXTENDING THE LENGTH OF THE DRESS

To extend the length of the dress I went to line, ,modify line and then move offset

I then dragged them hem line until I got the length I required.

ADDING SEAM ALLOWANCE

In order to add seam allowance to my patterns I went to piece, define/add seam.

I then added 1cm seam allowance to all my patterns. However on the hems I added 2cm seam allowance.

After I had finished with the adjustments to the dress I decided to print it off. The sleeve and front of the dress printed perfectly however there was an error occurred and wouldnt let me print of the back. I asked a member of staff for help but even they couldnt figure out where the error was. I then thought to do the patterns again manually. I printed of a size 10 dress hip block which was already made. I then manipulated the pattern until it was how I wanted. I extended the length and added seam allowance to the rest of the dress similarly the way I had done it on Gerber.

PATTERN CUTTING
Dress number 1
For my first garment I have decided to make a long dress. This is because it will be long and modest which is perfect for my diverse consumer. I have also decided to do this first one in calico. These garments are just prototypes, innovative ideas such as laser cutting will be added when making the actual thing.
cut on fold
front hip block size 10

back hip block size 10

cut on fold

sleeve hip block cut 1 pair size 10

Dress 2 I initially wanted to make a scarf matching the dress I made earlier so it would be like an abayah and hijab. However I thought that would be a little boring and decided to use the same dress pattern and make a different dress out of it. This dress would be in jersey. I decided to cut a little triangle out from the bottom of the dress from the centre front. I measured 40cm from the bottom up the centre front and 28 across the hem and drew a triangle. This was then cut out

front hip block size 12

cut on fold

sleeve hip block cut 1 pair size 10

FINISHED GARMENTS

GARMENT BREAKDOWN
Technical Specification/Garment Breakdown/Order of Construction
Season: A/W 20142015
Operation

Designer: Tayba Imran

Garment Description: A line long dress

Machine

Thread

Seam width

Trim off

Stitch per cm

Needle size

Comments

Fuse facing onto all appropriate pieces Sew the front shoulder darts Stitch the front and back shoulder seams together Sew on the sleeve head Stich the side of the arms and the side seams Pipe the neckline

n/a 301 lockstitch 301 lockstitch 301 lockstitch 301 lock stitch 301 lock stitch 301 lockstitch 504 over lock 301 lockstitch

n/a 120s 120s 120s 120s 120s

n/a n/a 1cm 1cm 1cm 1cm

n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a

n/a 12 12 12 12 12

n/a 70 70 70 70 70

This would include neckline and cuffs. Sew darts 5cm down this means to put the right sides together and sew the shoulder seams Match up the notches and sew the sleeve head onto the dress right sides together This should be done in one continuous stitch Sew Right sides together first then fold over once and stitch making sure no raw edges are visible Turn over cuffs 1cm and sew so no raw edges are visible This would include side seams, armhole, shoulders, and hem.

Turnover cuffs and stitch Over lock all stitches necessary Hem the bottom

120s 120s 120s

1cm n/a n/a

n/a 3mm n/a

24 12 12

70 70 70

My garment breakdown can be used for both my toiles as they are both A-line dresses. The design is similar just that in one of my dresses, it is a little shorter form the front.

FIT ANALYSIS
When analysing fit there are 4 important factors to consider, these are: grain, line, set and balance. -The grain relates to the draping of the fabric on the body. Ideally the warp should run straight down vertically or 45 degrees if on the bias. Both my garments hang straight and hang symmetrically on the body. -the line relates to the placement of seams and darts on the garment and how they are perceived. My darts are symmetrical on both on garments and sort of point to the area of greatest size which is the bust. My dart tips are also aligned equally.

-The set is how smooth the fabric lies on the body without creasing. The dress made
from the jersey material is a lot more smoother on the body than the dress made from calico. I think this is maybe due to the fabric characteristics, the calico also creases easily.

-Balance is when the garment hangs evenly on the body. Both my hemlines form smooth
continuous curves in the front and back of my garments and are parallel to the floor. Overall the garment is pleasing to the eyes.

EVALUATION
After I had constructed my garments, I realised that the neck holes were too small and that it would not fit over anyone's head. What I should have done was make the neck line bigger or put a fastening at the back such as a zip. This would have been more convenient to put the garment on. Also the garments were both size 10, and they fit on a size 12 mannequin, this is because I only sewed the shoulder darts, the rest of the darts were left open. I wanted to go for the baggy look as a Muslimah is not allowed to wear clothes which give a snug fit. These garments would fit perfectly on someone who is a size 8 or 10. Overall I was quite happy with both my garments and answered the brief of designing clothes for my particular diverse consumer even though they are quite basic garments.

Hope this was helpful, feedback would be very useful.

Happy dress making!