Topic

Fabrication

Fibers to Fabrics


By
Imran Ashraf
Fibers are the basic unit of all textiles

Yarn is a continuous strand of fibers

Fabric is a textile product made by
knitting or weaving yarns together


Fibers are
combined to
make yarns

Yarns are
combined to
make fabrics
Fibers
Each fiber has its own characteristics

Fiber source (natural or manufactured)
determines characteristics

Fibers may be short, long, curly or
straight
Natural Fibers
The most common natural fibers are
cotton, linen, wool and silk

The two categories of natural fibers are:
Cellulosic fibers fibers from plant
sources like cotton, flax, ramie, hemp, and
jute

Protein fibers fibers from animal sources
like wool, silk, mohair, cashmere, camels
hair, alpaca, and angora
Manufactured fibers
More widely used than natural fibers

Used in clothes, accessories, furniture,
and cars

Wide variety of fiber characteristics

Rayon was the first commercially
produced fiber in 1924. It was marketed
as artificial silk.
Manufactured Fibers
The two categories of manufactured
fibers are:

Cellulosic fibers make from wood chips
dissolved in chemicals. Examples are rayon,
acetate, triacetate and lyocell.

Noncellulosic or Synthetic fibers made
from combining the chemicals like nitrogen,
oxygen, hydrogen and carbon. Examples are
nylon, polyester, olefin, acrylic, and spandex.
1. Yarn Manufacturing
(Spinning)

The process of yarn manufacturing of continuous
length from different types of fibres (e.g: Cotton,
Wool, Lyocell, Polyester, Viscose etc.) is known as
Textile Spinning.

The separate fibres are spun together to make
stronger and continuous yarn.
Spinning

2. Fabric Manufacturing

I. Weaving
II. Knitting
I. Weaving
Weaving is a method of fabric
production in which two distinct sets
of yarns or threads are interlaced at
right angles to form a fabric or cloth.

Woven fabric is formed by interlacing
two mutually perpendicular sets of
yarns
II. Knitting


Knitting is a process of making fabric by
intermeshing of the loops, instead of two
sets of yarns crossing each other in
weaving.

Knitting Fundamentals
Knitting Classification


Warp Knitting
Weft Knitting
In weft knitting the loops of yarn are linked
across the width of the fabric.



In warp knitting the loops are linked in a
vertical direction.
Warp Knitting
In this process yarn sheet is developed
(warp sheet) and then with the help of
needles stitches are formed by insertion new
loop into old loop.

Warp Knitting Machine
Warp Knitted Fabrics
In warp knitting the yarn loops vertically up the fabric and the
process uses many yarns rather than one. The fabric does not
unravel or ladder. It is an industrial process only.
Characteristics of warp knits:
The production system is fast so the fabrics are quick to
make.
The fabric is elastic but it can keep its shape.
It can be cut and sewn easily as it lies flat when cut.
It is mainly used with synthetic filament yarns.
Weft Knitting

In weft knitting single yarn is fed to
knitting needles. Needle with the help of
cams, sinker make a new loop and passed
it into previously held loops.

Weft Knitting

Characteristics of weft knits:
The fabric has high elasticity and stretch.
The loops of yarn trap air which retains body heat to
keep us warm.
The right and wrong sides of the fabric look different.
the fabrics can lose shape easily.
Creases fall out easily.
The fabric can unravel and ladder easily.
Weft knitted fabrics curl up at the edges when they are
cut.
Types of Weft Knitting

Circular Knitting
Flat Knitting

Circular Knitting Machines
In circular knitting machines needles are fixed on
a cylinder or dial in a circular shape.
There are more than one feeders to feed yarn to
needles at different places.
In most of the cases needle bed (cylinder or dial)
moves while feeders remain stationary.
Diameter of cylinder and dial is fixed but in case
of sock knitting machines it is changeable due to
structure of socks

Circular Knitting Machine
Flat Knitting Machines
In flat knitting machines needles are fixed
on a straight plate. On this machine
needle bed remains stationary while yarn
feeding system called carriage moves
from one end to other end
This machine is used to knit collars, arm
bands and sweaters
Flat Knitting
Types of Circular Knitting
Machines
Single Knitting
Double Knitting
Single Knit Machine
In these machines needles are fixed on
cylinder and sinker are fixed on sinker
ring. Needles knit with the help of sinkers.
Single Knit Fabrics
Single Jersey
Fleece
Single Pique
Double Pique
Pique Honey Com (single and double)

Double Knit Machine
In double knit machine needles are fixed
on dial as well as on cylinders. There is no
sinkers on this machine.
This machine is used to knit interlock, rib
and double jerseys
Double Knit Fabric
Interlock--- Two sides are fully knitted, highly
flexible used for under garments. Front and back
wales are exactly at same point

Rib--- two sides are fully knitted. Less flexible
but have strong grip, used for neck, cuff opening
and waist band. Front and back wales are not at
same point

Double Jersey
Double side knitted, can have different designs
on both sides
Uses of Knitted Fabrics
Weft Knits
T-shirts
Jumpers
Cardigans
Sweatshirt fabrics
Warp Knits
Net curtains
Swimwear
Terry towelling fabrics
Patterned tights
Lace fabrics
3. Dyeing/Printing/Finishing
Dyeing

Dyeing is a process in which textile raw
material is completely immersed in dye
liquor. In simple words dye is a process in
which colors are shifted into textile raw
material. Produce (cloth etc.) with coloring
matter .


Preparation of fabrics
Singeing
WHAT IS IT?
Singeing machines burn off short
fibres protruding from cotton
fabrics.

WHY IS IT DONE?
To make fabric smoother and reduce
pilling

Preparation

This means getting the fabric ready for
dying, printing or finishing.

You need to have a basic
understanding of these 5 techniques:

Singeing
Scouring
Shrinking
Bleaching
Mercerising

These treatments are done on large
machines in textile factories worldwide,
many of them in the Far East.

Preparation of fabrics
Shrinking
WHAT IS IT?
Natural fabrics are washed and allowed to
relax on a vibrating table so they can
shrink in both width and length.

WHY IS IT DONE?
So the fabric will not shrink during later
processing or in use.

Scouring
WHAT IS IT?
A washing treatment to remove fats and
waxes which occur naturally (i.e. in wool)
or have been applied during spinning,
weaving or knitting.

WHY IS IT DONE?
To clean and relax the fabric and
make it take up dye easier.
Preparation of fabrics
Mercerising
WHAT IS IT?
A chemical process used for cotton yarn or
fabric which is held under tension in a
solution of caustic soda. This causes the
fibres to swell and become rounder.

WHY IS IT DONE?
To make cotton textiles stronger, more
lustrous and take up dye more easily.

Bleaching
WHAT IS IT?
Chemical process using hydrogen peroxide
to destroy natural colour and make the
fabric white.

WHY IS IT DONE?
Easier to produce pastel shades when dyed
(or enhances whiteness if being left white)
Dyeing fabrics
Types of Dye
Natural dyes used for 1000s of years,
hardly ever used commercially today.
Synthetic dyes since 19
th
C, used
almost exclusively today.
Chemical dyes can pollute rivers
when wastewater is released.

WHEN ARE TEXTILES DYED?
Fibre stage
Yarn stage
Fabric stage (piece, batch, continuous,
over-dyeing)
Product stage (garment dying piece or
batch)
Piece/Batch/Contin
uous Dyeing
HOW IS IT DONE?
The open width of fabric in a greige
state (un-dyed) is passed through a
bath of dyestuff.
It is then squeezed between rollers to
ensure even and consistent dyeing
Continuous fixation machinery fixes the
dye in the fabric.
WHY IS IT DONE?
To produce rolls of plain coloured fabric
in any length to any colour shade.
Cheaper than setting up machines to
produce woven fabrics from different
coloured yarns.
Dyeing fabrics
Garment Dyeing
WHAT IS IT?
Garments are made-up before they are
dyed. Can be one-off items, small batches
or large batches e.g. socks.

WHY IS IT DONE?
Enables colours to be chosen late in the
manufacturing cycle. This is cost effective
for manufacturers as colour decisions can
be made close to the selling season. For
this reason this method is often used for
fashion garments.

Over-dying
WHAT IS IT?
A dyeing process used on fabrics made from
yarns of different fibres. Some fibres take up
dyes more easily, so it is possible to produce a
different colour effect. Different dyes are
suitable for different fibres.

e.g: A fabric made with cotton warp threads
and a blend of cotton/acrylic weft threads will
produce a speckled effect when dyed.
Dyeing fabrics
Tie Dye
HOW IS IT DONE?
A resist method of dying where fabric of finished
garments are either twisted, knotted,
gathered or crumpled and then bound with
string or elastic bands before dyeing.

Produces a variety of patterns. Garments made
using tie dye come in and out of fashion.

Colourfastness
WHAT IS IT?
Resistance to colour loss during
manufacturing and use. Varies with:
Different fibres and blends
Different dyestuffs
Different conditions, e.g rubbing, washing,
ironing, perspiration, light, weather,
seawater.
ISO 105 evaluates colourfastness.
Printing fabrics
Block Printing
HOW IS IT DONE?
Uses engraved wooden blocks
Ancient method dating back to 2000BC
Rarely used today.


Printing
WHAT IS IT?
The controlled placement of defined areas
of colour onto a fabric.

Direct Printing methods:
Block printing (ancient method)
Rotary screen-printing (2/3 of todays
textiles)
Flat screen-printing (1/3 of todays textiles)

Transfer Printing (4% of todays textiles)
Discharge printing
Resist (Batik) Printing
Digital Printing


Printing fabrics
Flat screen-printing
HOW IS IT DONE?
Detailed patterns for top of the range
fabrics printed onto engraved flat screens
Screens lowered onto fabric and
squeegees force the printing paste through
the screens.
The fabric is then moved along the
printing table on a conveyor blanket.


Rotary screen-printing
HOW IS IT DONE?
The dye is applied to the fabric from
within a roller.
The printing paste is pumped from
reservoirs to the inside of the rollers and
squeezed onto the moving fabric.
Modern rollers are engraved by lasers.

Finishing

Finishing section is designed to give the final
finish of the fabric look and other
specifications.

Finishing fabrics
Raising
HOW IS IT DONE?
The fabric is passed over rollers covered
with fine flexible wire brushes which lift
the fibres from the fabric to forma soft
fibrous surface called a nap

WHY IS IT DONE?
To produce a fabric with a soft fleecy
handle, e.g pyjamas, dusters.
Physical Finishing
Raising
Calendering
Embossing
Heat setting

Chemical finishing (coating)
Easy-care
Flame resistant
Stain resistant
Water repellent
Permanent pleating (resin)

Aesthetic/functional
finishing
Pressing
Embroidery
Self-finishing



Finishing fabrics
Easy-Care
HOW IS IT DONE?
A resin finish is applied and cured by heat
to cotton and viscose.

WHY IS IT DONE?
To make fabrics dry fast and need minimal
ironing. However, it reduces strength and
abrasion resistance

Calendering
HOW IS IT DONE?
Fabric is passed under heavy heated rollers
under pressure. (The industrial equivalent
to ironing)

WHY IS IT DONE?
To smooth the surface,
to improve lustre,
for moir patterns (engraved rollers)
for embossed fabrics (embossed rollers)
These are fixed with resin for cotton fabrics
or heat setting for thermosetting synthetic
fabrics.
Finishing fabrics
Stain Resist
HOW IS IT DONE?
Fluorochemical resin is applied. Can be
applied to all fibres.

WHY IS IT DONE?
To improve stain resistance. e.g. ties,
upholstery. However, biodegrades slowly.

Flame Resist
HOW IS IT DONE?
A chlorine/phosphorous finish is applied and
fixed. Can be applied to all fibres.

WHY IS IT DONE?
To reduce flammability of the product,
However, it increases stiffness, reduces
strength, adds cost and degrades when
washed. Used for childrens pyjamas and
upholstery.


Finishing fabrics
Permanent Pleating
HOW IS IT DONE?
Synthetic fabrics and blends can be heat
set, Cotton and viscose requires a resin
coating, followed by pressing and heat
curing in oven.

WHY IS IT DONE?
To create permanent pleated garments
that stay pleated when washed.

Water Repellent
HOW IS IT DONE?
Fluorochemical resin is applied to face or
back of fabrics. Can be applied to all fibres.

WHY IS IT DONE?
To make them waterproof and windproof.
Suitable for all-weather wear, tents, shoes.


Finishing fabrics
Pressing
HOW IS IT DONE?
Manual pressing using steam iron
connected to a holding device and a
pressing area provided with suction.
Steam dollies are used for whole
garments. The form is inflated by blowing
with steam
Tunnel Finishers are used to finish whole
garments on hangers which pass on a
conveyor through a steam chamber.

Thank You