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Classification of Dyestuffs
Dyestuffs can be classified by many methods
as follows:
1. by their ionic (e.g. cationic, anionic and
non-ionic)
2. by their fiber dyeabilities (e.g. on
cellulosic, protein, polyester, polyamide etc.)
3. by their names (e.g. acid, direct, disperse,
reactive, basic etc.)
4. by their chemical structures (e.g. azo,
anthraquinone, stilbene etc.)
5. by their origins (e.g. natural, synthetic)
6. by their colors (e.g. red, green, black etc.) 4
2. Continuous Process
This method is designed by putting different
machinery into a sequence so that it can
produce the dyed fabric in one pass.
Advantage: very fast process (10-100
m/min), small amount of water in the
process.
Disadvantage: very expensive, need to train
the worker to look after and run them
properly.
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6. Garment Dyeing
This method is the last process of the
dyeing of goods. However, the penetration
of the dye solution may not be completely
passed to the fibers such as between the
seams, buttons, zippers etc. Normally, it is
used for lingerie, socks, sweater dyeing etc.
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Name of Dyestuffs
Acid
Basic
Direct
Disperse
Reactive
Vat
Sulphur
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Textile Auxiliaries
1. Salt - reduce negative charges on the
fibers
2. Water - dyeing media
3. Fixing Agent - enhance wet fastness but
usually reduce light fastness
Dyeing Conditions (Exhaustion)
dyeing 100oC x 30-90 min
fixing 60oC x 20 min
(Continuous)
pad --> dry --> steam --> wash --> soap -->
dry
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Dyeing Conditions
1. Continuous Process
1.1 Pad-dry-bake
This is very easy method for cotton or cotton
blends fibers.
1.2 Pad-dry-Pad (Chemical)-Steam
This will give brighter and more intense
color than method 1.1.
1.3 Pad-batch
This will put the goods into the dye solution
and squeeze with 2 rubber rollers to get rid of
excess water and then batch at room
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temperature for 1-2 days.
2. Exhaustion Process
This method will be used in small factory.
Dyeing conditions will be 40-80oC for 30-90
min depending to the types and structures of
the dyes.
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Textile Auxilaries
1. Salt - reduce negative charges on the
fibers
2. Water - dyeing media
3. Soda Ash - excite the dye to link with the
fibers with covalent bonding. Therefore, it
enhances wet fastness
4. Fixing Agent - enhance wet fastness for
heavy shade but usually reduce light fastness.
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Dyeing Process
1. Dissolve dye into water (insoluble dye)
2. Vatting process by reducing the insoluble
dye in alkali condition. (soluble dye)
3. Absorb into fibers (soluble dye)
4. After dyeing, oxidize the dye with
oxidizing agent (insoluble dye)
5. Wash and soap the goods
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Dyeing Conditions
1. Continuous Process
1.1 Pad-dry-Pad (Chemical)
The solution of the dye is prepared without
adding reducing agent to ensure leveling
dyeing. After that, the goods are passed to
chemical bath to reduce the dye into soluble
dye and fix within the goods. Oxidizing
agent is added to the goods and converted to
insoluble dyes.
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Textile Auxilaries
1. Salt - reduce the negative charges on the
fibers
2. Sodium hydroxide - adjust pH to the
dyeing bath and make the suitable conditions
for reducing agent.
3. Sodium hydrosulfite - reducing agent for
the vat dyes.
4. Water - dyeing media
5. Oxidizing agents - (Hydrogen peroxide or
Acetic acid or Air) oxidize the soluble to
insoluble dye
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Less water
soluble
Water insoluble
in polyester
fibers
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1. Exhaustion Process
1.1 At boil with carrier
This process is suitable for acetate fiber and
pale shade polyester fiber dyeing. Carrier is
an auxiliary for swollen fiber in order to
allow more dyes absorbing in. Now the use
of carrier is reduced because it may be a
carcinogen.
1.2 At 130oC without carrier
With the high temperature, the dyes will be
dissolved into smaller molecules and the void
in fiber structure will be opened. This will
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give heavy shade.
2. Continuous Process
Pad --> Pre-dry (100oC x 30 sec) -->
Thermofixation (180oC x 30 sec) -->
reduction clearing (RC) --> wash --> dry
Printing with Disperse Dyes
With the sublimation property, the dyes can
be printed on paper, place the fabric with a
printed paper and then using an iron with
high temperature pressed on the paper. The
dyes will transfer from paper to polyester
fiber. This is called Transfer Printing.
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Textile Auxilaries
1. Dispersing Agent - make the dye solution
stable and disperse in the dye bath.
2. Acid - adjust pH to the suitable condition
for the dye bath.
3. Carrier - swell the fiber and dissolve the
dye to make the dye getting into fiber.
4. Leveling agent - make more leveling
dyeing (some will have adverse effect on
slower dyeing)
5. Water - dyeing media
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Textile Auxiliaries
1. Leveling agent - for levelness dyeing
2. Retarding agent - for inhibiting the dye not
attach to fibers too fast
3. Acid - adjust the dyeing condition and
make the fibers to show positive charges
4. Water - dyeing media
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Textile Auxiliaries
1. Leveling agent - for levelness dyeing
2. Retarding agent - for inhibiting the dye not
attach to fibers too fast
3. Acid - adjust the dyeing condition and
make the fibers to show negative charges
4. Water - dyeing media
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Dyes
Acid (Wool)
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