Coastal Sediment Transport

CEPD03
Lecture 3
Prof. Dano Roelvink
Dr. Jan van de Graaff

Contents

Overview of problems
Bed shear stress by waves and current
Sediment transport by waves and current
Longshore sediment transport
Cross-shore sediment transport
Coastline changes
Dune erosion
Sedimentation in channels and trenches
Stability of channels and inlets

Exercise about lectures 1 and 2

V=0.7 m/s
H=1 m
h=2 m
T=7 s
D50=0.2 mm; D90=0.3 mm
r=0.05 m
Compute c , u0 , f w , w , cw , Sb , S s

Longshore transport
Simple method to estimate longshore
velocity
Use estimated wave height in surf zone
Derive radiation stress gradient from this
Balance radiation stress gradient with
bottom shear stress

Radiation stress

Longshore wave forces

S xy S yy
Fy

y
x

n cos sin E
x

Longshore wave forces

S xy

Cg
Fy
E cos sin
x
x C

sin

EC g cos
x C

sin
EC g cos

x C

sin

EC g cos

C x

Longshore wave forces

=0

sin
Fy ECg cos

x C

(Snels
Law)

sin

ECg cos

C x

Fy

Dw
sin( )
C

Assignment

Hs0=3m, T=8s, 0.7

Angle of incidence:
75,60,50,45,40,30,20,10 deg.
Compute conditions at breaker line
Compute longshore sediment transport
using coefficient B=0.04

Contents

Wave energy balance

Dispersion relation
Wave celerity and group velocity
Snels Law
Shoaling and refraction
Wave breaking
Dissipation
Solving 1D energy balance
Radiation stresses and wave forces

Wave energy balance

E

EC g cos EC g sin D
t x
y
1
1
2
2
2
E g ga gH rms
2
8
Wave energy

Group
velocity

Wave angle

Wave
dissipation

Dispersion relation
Relation between wave period T and wave
length L for given water depth
2 gk tanh(kh )
2

T
2
L
k
C
L
T k
1

d
kh
Cg
nC
C

dk
2 sinh(2kh )

Deep water
tanh( kh ) 1

gk k
2

sinh( kh )

2
g

T
2
L g gT
k
C
L
T k 2
d
1
Cg
nC C
dk
2

Shallow water
tanh( kh ) kh

sinh( kh ) kh

gk (kh ) / k gh
2

T
2
L
k
C gh
L
T k
1

d
kh
Cg
nC
C gh

dk
2 sinh(2kh )

Wave refraction
30

20

10

Wave rays
Wave crests

Depth
contours

Snels Law
Valid for straight contour lines
Relates local wave angle to deep water
wave angle

sin sin 0

c
c0

Wave breaking
Complex process
Various approximations, e.g.
Battjes and Janssen, 1978
Thornton and Guza, 1983
Roelvink, 1993
Baldock, 1998

Baldock model
1
Dw g f p e
4
Coefficient
~1

H max

H max

H ms

2
max

Coefficient
~0.6-0.8

0.88
kh

tanh(
)
k
0.88

2
rms

1D Wave energy balance

E

ECg cos ECg sin Dw

t x
y

Wave energy

Group
velocity

Wave angle

Wave
dissipation

Solving 1D wave energy balance

Outside surf zone:
Wave energy flux is constant
Group velocity follows from dispersion relation
Wave angle follows from Snels Law

ECg cos 0

x
ECg cos E0Cg 0 cos 0

Shoaling and refraction

Shoaling is change in wave height due to
change in group velocity
Mostly increasing towards shore
Refraction is bending of wave rays
towards shore, leads to decrease of wave
height because energy is spread over
wider area

Wave refraction
30

20

10

Wave rays
Wave crests

Depth
contours

Solving 1D wave energy balance

Inside surf zone:
Group velocity follows from dispersion relation
Wave angle follows from Snels Law
Dissipation follows from e.g. Baldock, relating wave
dissipation to wave energy and water depth
Solve E numerically, starting from known value
outside breaker zone

ECg cos Dw ( E , h)

Solving 1D wave energy balance

Very simple numerical scheme:

Ei 1Cg ,i 1 cos i 1 EiCg ,i cos i

x
Ei 1

Dw ( Ei , hi )

EiCg ,i cos i Dw ( Ei , hi ) x
Cg ,i 1 cos i 1

Radiation stresses
S yy
S yx

S xy
S yx

S xx

S xx

S yy

S xy

Wave forces

S xx S xy
Fx

x
y
S xy S yy
Fy

x
y

Radiation stresses
1

2
S xx n cos n E
2

S xy S yx n cos sin E
1

2
S yy n sin n E
2

Cg
C

Wave forces
Follow from radiation stress gradients
Radiation stresses are function of wave
energy, wave direction and ratio wave
celerity to group velocity
In 1D case we can compute all these
easily