Professional Documents
Culture Documents
ABT SAFETY
(2014)
SHOP
CONTENTS:
TITLE
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IRON WORKER
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DRILL PRESS
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9.
Do not run extension cords through personnel doors. Do not allow extension cords to lie in
puddles of water. Do not plug extension cords in series. Fully retract cord reels before
using.
10. Do not place items on the floor in front of fire extinguishers, fire alarm pull stations, or
circuit breaker panels.
11. Never use compressed air guns to clean clothing and hair.
12. Never indulge in horseplay in the shop areas.
13. Never eat or drink in the shop.
14. Do not operate power tools unless at least two people are in the shop area and can see and
hear each other.
15. Keep fingers clear of the point of operation of machines by using special tools or devices,
such as, push sticks, hooks, pliers, etc. Never use a rag near moving machinery.
16. In case of any injury, no matter how slight, report it.
17. If you have not worked with a particular material before, check the materials safety data
sheet (MSDS) for any specific precautions to be taken while working with the material. Also,
ask before cutting any unusual material.
18. Check the condition of power cords and plugs on portable tools before using them. Do not
use a tool that has a worn or damaged power cord/plug. Report it.
19. When you are done with your work, turn off your machine, return your tools, and put
everything in right order and condition for the next user.
20. At the end, clean up your machine, work table, and surrounding area. A dirty shop leads to
accidents. Someone can slip on debris and electrode stubs or can trip over extension cords,
when left lying around.
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Follow the general shop safety rules when operating any of the power tools.
2.
Place the stock to be cut in the clamp in a way to minimize length of cut, and push the clamp all the way forward until it
contacts the metal.
3.
Set the blade upper guide so that it is about 1/4 above the stock to be cut.
4.
With the hand turning wheel to the right of the saw, run the blade up to the piece to be cut.
5.
Measure from the outer face of the blade to the end of the metal and adjust to the desired dimension. This will take the
saw-curf into account.
6.
Turn the clamping screw handle in until it tightens and secures the stock.
7.
Adjust the force on the auto feed mechanism, and the blade speed, based on the material type and thickness, and also
the coolant flow (if available).
8.
Make sure the blade is not in contact with stock. Then, turn the saw on. Run the blade up until it contacts the metal and
start cutting it with manual feed.
9.
10. Never place hands or fingers directly in line with the blade.
11. When the saw has cut through the metal, turn the saw off and return it to the starting position.
12. To cut in an angle, release the locking device and tip the body until the desired angle is reached. Then, re-lock the lever.
The saw body is heavy. If you do not think you can support the body on your own, ask for help.
13. Clean up the table and area around the saw when you are done and return the band saw body to the upright position, if
you have moved it to an angle.
Follow the general shop safety rules when operating any of the power tools.
2.
The nature of the machine requires that some pinch points do not have a guard around them, be very careful
around this machine!
3.
Adjust the gap between the front rollers for the thickness of material.
4.
Decide on the diameter you want to roll the piece. If it is not a full circle, draw the radius on the shop floor
or a piece of butcher paper to check if you have reached the proper dimension.
5.
Adjust the rollers by pulling the rear roller chain so that the moving roller drops.
6.
7.
Place the end of your work piece between the upper and lower rollers and check for straight angle between
the rollers and edge of the piece.
8.
9.
Press and hold the foot pedal, the machine will grab the piece and starts to curl it.
10. The first curve is rarely, if ever, right. Adjust the machine for more curvature and run your work piece
through again. Repeat the process until the desired diameter is achieved.
11. Make sure to turn to machine off at the end of the job.
12. Clean up around the machine when you are done
Never grind aluminum. It will clog the wheel. A clogged wheel becomes a heat generator and could explode!
3.
Never grind while wearing gloves. They can get caught and pulled into the spinning wheel.
4.
Avoid using pliers to hold your work piece while grinding. They do not allow you to hold the work piece flat
against the tool rest.
5.
6.
Before turning the grinder on, inspect the wheel for cracks, chips, uneven or glazed surfaces. Dress the wheel
as required for removing irregularities. Check that the tool rest is positioned horizontally and is adjusted to
1/8 maximum distance from the face of the wheel.
7.
Stand to the side of the grinder when turning on the machine to keep oneself out of harms way, in case the
wheel disintegrates.
8.
Grind only on the front surface (top) of the wheel (in most instances).
9.
Place your work piece flat on the tool rest and apply even pressure with your work piece against the spinning
wheel. Move the work piece uniformly across the wheel face, so you do not grind a groove into the wheel face.
10. The work piece will get hot! Have a can of water near by to cool it down.
11. When you are done, clean up the area around the grinder.
Never grind while wearing gloves! They can get caught and pulled into the moving belt.
3. Avoid using pliers to hold your work piece while grinding, they do not allow you to hold the
work piece flat against the tool rest.
4.
5. Do not sand pieces that are 3/4 or less wide, unless a push shoe or some other means of
supporting the piece is used.
6. For disk sanders, use only the half of the disc that is rotating toward the work table
(downstroke side).
7.
Ensure that the distance between a circular sander and the edge of the table is not greater
than inch
8.
To operate, turn the sander on. Place your work piece flat on the tool rest and apply even
pressure with your work piece against the moving belt. Move the work piece across the belt
so you do not cut it or wear out one section.
9. The work piece will get hot! Have a can of water near by to cool the work piece.
10. Clean up the area around the sander, when you are done.
3. The shear will only cut one piece of metal at a time. Do not stack pieces to save time.
4. Lay out your metal and mark it with a scribe.
5. Slide the metal under the clamp and look between the clamp and the cutting edge. Sight
down the cutting edge and line up the mark with it. You can also adjust the cutting length
by using the sliding fence properly on the carrying rods.
Follow the general shop safety rules when operating any of the power tools.
2.
The thinner the material, the more likely the bit will grab it, do not drill larger than a half inch hole in sheet metal! Thin
materials should be punched or use Step Drill for safer operation.
3.
Measure your work and mark where you want the hole. Center punch the mark.
4.
Select the proper drill size and properly tighten it into the drill chuck.
5.
6.
Clamp the work so the center of the drill bit lands on the center punch mark.
7.
Adjust the drill to the proper RPM for the size of drill bit and the type of material you are using. See the chart next to the
drill press for proper speed.
8.
Adjust the vertical distance between the tip of drill bit and work piece. You should maintain a clearance between the tip and
highest point of the work piece or vise.
9.
Turn on the drill and intermittently apply an even pressure to the arbor until the hole is drilled. In this case, chips should
break in small pieces.
10. When you are done, turn off the drill press. Wait until the chuck comes to a complete stop on its own, before removing the
bit. Do not slow the chuck with your hand!
11. Put your bit back in its proper location.
12. Clean up the table and floor around the drill press.
13. If you are using a free moving vise, the handle should locate in the left side to prevent possible hazard. This is true for a
long piece as well.
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When using arc-welding equipment, always wear a welding hood with safety
glasses, fire-resistant gauntlet gloves, rubber-soled shoes, leather apron, and
appropriate protective clothing (non-synthetic fiber). Eye protection requires at
least a No.10 lens shade for arc welding. Use hearing protection during noisy
welding tasks. A rule of thumb: If you can see skin from the neck down then you
Before starting the arc-welding warn the people around you for protecting cover
3.
Never use wet arc-welding equipment or perform arc welding in wet or damp locations.
4.
Do not look at the arc! Looking at an arc for an extended period of time without a welding
helmet may result in flash burn.
5.
While the output from the welder is limited by code to reduce the chances of a fatal electric
shock, you can still get an unpleasant jolt, if you are not careful. Consider the following
precautions:
6.
Always conduct arc welding in well ventilated areas. Avoid breathing welding fumes.
7.
Do not arc weld on coated metals (galvanized, lead, or cadmium plated steel) unless the coating is
completely removed from the area to be welded and the welding area is well ventilated.
8.
Do not arc weld where flying sparks can reach flammable materials. Keep flammable materials at
least 35 feet from arc welding operations.
9.
Remove combustible items, such as matches or a lighter, from your pockets and leave them in
your backpack before beginning to arc weld. Make sure a fire blanket and extinguisher are present
in the arc-welding work area.
10.
When stick welding, always take the electrode out of the electrode holder before putting the holder
on the table so it does not arc to the table.
11.
Do not hand a classmate or the TAs your work until it has been cooled off in one of the water
buckets.
12.
Do not switch the polarity of the machine while it is under operating load, it can lead to machine
damage and can burn the person that moved the switch.
13.
14.
Always keep compressed gas cylinders away from arc-welding work areas. Never arc weld on a
compressed gas cylinder!
Never dip hot electrode holders in water.
15.
Avoid having electrode cables wrap around your body when arc welding.
16.
When possible, use vises or clamps to secure work pieces while arc welding.
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Do not move any compressed gas cylinders unless they have the safety cap on them. If they
happen to fall over without the protective cap, the valve could break off turning the tank into
a projectile.
2.
Always securely strap compressed gas cylinders to the wall or cart, where they will be used.
3.
Do not use oil, grease, or pipe fitting compounds on compressed oxygen equipment. These
materials may readily ignite and burn in the presence of oxygen.
4.
Do not force connections that do not fit. Oxygen fittings are usually a right handed thread
while fuel fittings are usually a left handed thread.
5.
6.
Pressure gauges contain a small brass tube which fills with the compressed gas when the
cylinder valve is turned on. These brass tubes have been known to fatigue and break. When
they do, they send pieces of shrapnel out the front of the gauge. Therefore, it is important
that you always stand to the side of any cylinder when opening the valve.
7.
The valve on an acetylene cylinder must never be opened more than 1 turn to facilitate quick
closing in case of an emergency.
8.
Never use acetylene at a gauge pressure of over 15 psi. Above this pressure, the acetylene
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could spontaneously explode without an ignition source.
12. Keep cylinders away from open fire or extreme heat (i.e., lighted torch).
13. Keep the area between your work and the cylinder regulators open, such that you may reach the regulators
quickly in an emergency.
14. If not using the apparatus within one-half hour, shut down the apparatus and release all pressure in the
hoses.
OXYACETYLENE WELDING/CUTTING
OPERATIONAL PROCEDURE
I. PREPARATION:
1. Assemble all of the materials needed to make the weld. This
includes parts, oxyacetylene welding and cutting apparatus, clamps,
safety mask, gloves, outfits, and filler rod.
2. Clean the parts to be welded to remove any oil, rust, or other
contaminants. Use a wire brush if needed to remove any rust.
3. Assemble and fix the parts in place. The pieces need to be stable for
a good weld line.
4. Use the related chart to select the nozzle size for the thickness of
material you plan to use for welding.
Nozzles come in a variety of sizes, from 000 (for a very small flame,
typically used for thin materials) to upwards of 3 (for a large flame
needed for thick materials).
Larger nozzles produce larger flames and in general, are more
appropriate for thicker material.
Choosing the right size nozzle becomes easier with more experience.
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5.
Use it to scrape any deposits from the flat face of the tip.
Use the wire-like files to clean the interior of the nozzle.
Pick the largest wire which will fit inside the nozzle and the scrape the
edges of the hole to remove any carbon buildup.
6.
Attach the nozzle to the gas feed line by hand. Don't over-torque the nozzle and hose fitting are both made of brass which doesn't
stand up well to abuse. A snug, finger tight fit is the sufficient.
7.
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Use the chart to select the recommended amount of acetylene and oxygen pressure for the
thickness of material you are going to weld.
2.
Open the main valve on the acetylene tank <1/2 turn. This charges the pressure regulator at
the top of the tank.
3.
Open the pressure regulator valve on the acetylene tank (turn clockwise to open) and adjust
the pressure in the acetylene line to the right pressure (normally, 5 PSI). Do not pressurize
the acetylene over 15 PSI. It will explode.
4.
Open the acetylene pin valve on the handle of the welding tool, letting acetylene
escape. Tweak the pressure regulator valve until the regulator pressure is constant at 5
PSI. Close the acetylene pin valve.
5.
Stay aside and open the main valve on the oxygen tank. Turn the valve until it is fully open
(until it stops turning).
6.
Open the pressure regulator valve on the oxygen tank (turn clockwise to open) and adjust the
pressure in the oxygen line to the right pressure (normally, 10 PSI).
7.
Open the oxygen pin valve on the handle of the welding tool, letting oxygen escape. Tweak the
pressure regulator valve until the regulator pressure is constant at 10 PSI. Close the oxygen
pin valve.
8.
Slightly open the acetylene valve (~1/8 turn), until you can just barely hear acetylene
escaping.
9.
Make sure there is no body or anything flammable in the path of the nozzle. Use the striker to
ignite the acetylene. The flame should be yellow and will give off a lot of soot.
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acetylene until the flame is just about to separate from the tip. (The flame will
separate from the tip of the nozzle if you add too much acetylene.) If so, reduce the
flow until the flame reattaches to the tip, and then open the valve again to the nearseparation point.
2. Slightly open the oxygen pin valve. If the flame goes out, turn off both gases and try
again. DO NOT try and ignite the flame with both oxygen and acetylene pin valves
open. As the oxygen is added the flame will turn bluish in color.
3. The blue flame will be divided into 3 different color regions: A long yellowish tip, a
blue middle section, and a whitish-blue intense inner section. There are three types
of flames as described below:
Neutral flame- This type of flame is the one you will use most often in the shop. It is called
neutral because it has no chemical effect upon the metal during welding. It is achieved by mixing
equal parts oxygen and acetylene and is witnessed in the flame by adjusting the oxygen flow until
the middle blue section and inner whitish-blue parts merge into a single region.
Reducing or carburizing flame- If there is excess acetylene, the whitish-blue flame will be larger
than the blue flame. This flame contains white hot carbon particles which may be dissolved during
welding. This reducing flame will remove oxygen from iron oxides in steel.
Oxidizing flame- If there is excess oxygen, the whitish-blue flame will be smaller than the blue
flame. This flame burns hotter. A slightly oxidizing flame is used in brazing, and a more strongly
oxidizing flame is used in welding certain brasses and bronzes.
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IV. WELDING:
1. Put on a dark face shield or goggle (minimum, #4 lenses) to protect your eyes from the
light of the flame. Make sure you have on long sleeves and all natural fibers. You can
wear a leather welding jacket and/or gloves if it makes you feel more comfortable.
2. Apply the flame to the assembled parts to begin heating. Pieces should be first tack
welded together at the both ends. Use the region of the flame near the tip of the bluish
inner region.
3. The metal will begin to glow. Continue heating both parts being welded until a small pool
of welded metal appears near the edge of each of the parts. You must get molten pools on
both parts simultaneously to create the weld. It may require adding more heat to one side
than the other, and takes some practice.
4. After the molten pools have formed on both sides of the weld, use the flame to gently stir
the two pools together to form the tack weld. This takes a little practice.
5. After the two pools have joined at the ends, start from one end (normally, right side), form
a new molten pool, and slowly move the flame along the weld line, lengthening the pool by
using metal from both parts. A gentle, circular, swirling motion will help mix the molten
metal from both sides as the puddle is lengthened. This process is highly dependent on
the materials and part geometries being welded. Practice, long enough to get better
control.
6. Continue this process until the entire weld line is complete.
7. Once you're done, turn off the flame. Close the oxygen valve first, and then the acetylene
valve. Notice that welded parts can remain hot for a long time.
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V. BACKFIRING:
Improper operation of the torch may cause the flame to
go out with a loud snap or pop. This is called backfire.
Backfiring can be caused by:
Touching the tip against your work piece
VI. CUTTING:
1.
Use the chart to select the recommended amount of acetylene and oxygen
pressure, and also the right size of cutting tip for the thickness of material
you are going to cut.
2.
3.
Draw a cutting line on the piece you want to cut with a soap stone and clamp
it securely and appropriately to a table.
4.
5.
6.
Open the oxygen valve at the base of the torch body completely. Turn the
acetylene valve on about a quarter turn, and use your striker to light the
flame. Make sure the torch is pointing away from you and any burnable
material.
7.
Add fuel by opening the acetylene fuel valve until the flame jumps off the tip
and then close it until it jumps back.
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8.
Open the mixing valve on the top of the torch until you here a
slight hissing sound. The blue cones shouldnt jump when you
use the cutting valve. If it does you will open the mixing valve a
little more.
If you are right handed you will start at the left side of the material or if you
are left handed you will start at the right side of the material.
9.
Hold the tip of the torch so that the blue cones are about 1/8
inch from the metal. Hold the torch there until a puddle begins
to form and then use your thumb to open the cutting valve so
that it blows the molten metal out of the cutting path.
10.
Move slowly across the metal following your soap stone line and
making sure to go slow enough to keep the cut going, but fast
enough that your cut doesnt weld itself back together.
11.
After making your cut, release the cutting valve, close the
acetylene valve, and then close the oxygen mixing valve in order
to extinguish the flame.
12.
When you are completely finished with the torch you will need to
shut down the rigs.
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1. With the flame extinguished and the pin valves closed, close the main valve on
the oxygen tank. It should be firmly seated at the bottom.
2. Open the oxygen pin valve to bleed off all of the oxygen in the regulator and
feed line. Close the pin valve once the feed line pressure has gone to zero.
3. Fully back out the oxygen regulator valve so there is no pressure in the line. DO
NOT close the valve, as this will pressurize the line once the tank is open again.
In the case of the acetylene, if it is pressurized over15 PSI it may explode! If
you are not sure about doing this properly, ask for help.
4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 for the acetylene line.
5. Return all of the tools to their proper storage places and coil the feed lines
around the handle on the gas cylinder cart. Do not remove the nozzle from the
feed line. The feed lines should always have a nozzle attached to prevent
accidental damage to the threads used to attach the nozzle.
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III. APPENDIX
COMPREHENSIVE HAIR,
EYE AND BODY
PROTECTION RULES
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I. EYE PROTECTION:
1)
All instructors, staff, shop users, and visitors must wear eye protection that meets the
ANSI Z-87.1-1989 standard while in the different shop areas, except for office and
break room areas. Standard safety glasses are posted at each entrance door for
users and visitors.
2)
For people who wear corrective glasses, eye protection must be of the type that can be
worn over glasses. Prescription-ground safety lenses may be substituted if they
provide equivalent protection and if side shields are attached to the glasses frame.
3) All shop staff, users, and visitors who are welding or viewing these activities must wear
proper eye and face protection from the radiation produced by welding. Standard
welding goggles or helmets will be provided at the related areas.
a. ARC WELDING OR ARC CUTTING OPERATIONS REQUIRE THE USE OF WELDING HELMETS
WITH AN APPROPRIATE FILTER LENS.
b. GOGGLES WITH FILTER PLATES OR TINTED GLASS ARE REQUIRED FOR GAS WELDING OR
CUTTING OPERATIONS.
4)
Safety glasses are essential for portable hand grinding/cutting operations and
stationary grinding machines. Depending on your specific activity, you may also
require full face shield protection.
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4)
5)
SHOP COAT: Appropriate type and size of shop coat is required for welding
and is not needed otherwise. It should be pointed out that UNTUCKED/UNZIPPED shop coats, jackets, and shirts present risk in the shop,
especially when you lean over or into a lathe, mill, drill press, pedestal wire
wheel, and so forth. Unzipped coats can swing into rotating or moving
machine parts, especially if you lean into the machine or if an air fan is
running or compressed air is blown in the vicinity. Snug fitting t-shirts and
tighter button down shirts and blouses are ok. Dresses or other loose
clothing cannot be worn while operating machinery.
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13) EARRINGS: Stud earrings around machinery are fine, but any
earrings around welding probably are not fine. Very small
hoop earrings are fine around machinery, but anything
dangling more than one inch or so is not fine.
14) RESPIRATORY PROTECTION: Welding operations must be
conducted with good ventilation. The movable welding fume
hoods must be used whenever welding is occurring inside the
shop areas.
15) MACHINE GAURDS: Machine guards provided for the operator
safety must be in place whenever the machine is operated.
Guards or shields removed for maintenance must be replaced
before the machine is used again.
16) BACK PROTECTION: Shop staff and users must not attempt to
lift more than 50 pounds unassisted, and should ask others
to help in lifting any heavy tool, material, attachment, or
equipment. Use appropriate lifting techniques, hoist, fork
trucks, and other lifting devices as needed to protect back
injuries.
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