Plain Weave

First basic weave
Basic Weave
3 basic weaves:
(a) Plain
(b) Satin &
(c) Twill.
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Plain weave
A weave obtained by lifting the even no. warps at one
pick & the odd no. of warps in the next pick.
And the repeat contains 2 ends & 2 picks. Both sides of
the weave is identical (1/1).
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Characteristics of plain weave

Both sides of the weave are identical
Threads interlacing in alternate order
The repeat contains two ends and two picks.
Each thread gives maximum amount of support to the
adjacent threads.
Texture is stronger and firmer than any other ordinary
cloth.
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Characteristics of plain weave contd

The weave can be made from all kind of textile raw
materials i.e. cotton yarn, linen, jute & man-made

fibers, both spun and continuous filament yarns.
It comprise a high production of the total output of
woven fabrics.
Two heald shafts are sufficient to produce plain weave;
when the EPI is large four or six heald shafts are used
with skip draft.
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Derivatives of plain weave

Derivatives of plain weave
Rib weave
Warp rib
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Matt/ Basket/ Hopsack weave
Weft rib
Regular matt
Regular warp rib
Rgular weft rib
Irregular warp rib
Irregular weft rib
Irregular matt
Stitch matt
Fancy matt
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Classification of plain cloth

Plain cloth
Warp face cloth
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Weft face cloth
Approximately squared cloth
Approximately squared cloth

Sheeting fabric
68 68
57 58
30 30
Calico fabric
60 60
57 58
16 16
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Warp faced fabric

Canvas fabric
100 50
57 58
20 16
Poplin fabric
133 72
57 58
40 40
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Weft faced fabric
32 148
57 58
7 60
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Trade name
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
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Poplin
Voile
Calico
Muslin
Alpaca
Linen
Sheeting
Tabby
Taffeta.
Canvas
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Warp rib
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
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It Produces a rib or cord effect on weft way direction.

Two or more weft yarn passes over/under a single
warp yarn.
Ends per unit length > Picks per unit length.
Single yarn is used for warp & bundle yarn for weft
yarn.
Finer yarn is used for warp & coarser for weft is used.
Low twisted yarn is used for weft.
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Weft rib
1. Produces a cord or rib effect at warp way
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
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direction.
Two or more warp yarn passes over or under a
weft.
Picks per unit length > ends per unit length.
Single yarn is used for weft & bundle yarn for
warp.
Finer yarn is used for weft & coarser for warp.
Low twisted yarn is used for warp.
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Weft rib weave
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Applications of rib
Warp rib: Production of various grosgrain cloths &
mate less fabric.

Weft rib: Blankets, hair cords etc.
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Features of matt:
Produced by extending the plain weave on both warp
& weft way direction.

Combination of warp rib & weft rib.
Loose structure of the fabric.
Smooth surface of the fabric & more flexible.
Application of matt weaves: Shirtings, Sail cloth,
Duck cloth etc.
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These weaves are also variously known as hopsack or
basket weaves. The matt rib structures result from

extending the plain weave in both directions.
In case of regular matt weave, the plain weaves are
extended equally in the warp and weft directions,
where as in case of irregular matt weaves, the plain
weave is extended unevenly or irregularly in the warp
and weft directions.
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Matt weave
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Ornamentation of plain cloth

The threads in both warp and weft vary in color,
raw material, Types of construction and in
thickness.
Threads of different colors are combined in check
form.
By using fancy slub yarn
By combining different orders of denting
By using two warp beams, which are differently
tensioned. E.g: Seersucker stripe production
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By using different twisted yarn, such as hard

twisted weft yarn for producing crepe effect.
By using different textile materials , such as wool
and cotton produce union fabric.
By using a specially shaped reed, which rises and
falls the threads are caused to form zigzag lines in
the cloth.
By using extremely fine or coarse yarn.
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Plain Weave

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Plain Weave

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First basic weave

pick & the odd no. of warps in the next pick.

And the repeat contains 2 ends & 2 picks. Both sides of

the weave is identical (1/1).

Characteristics of plain weave

Characteristics of plain weave contd

materials i.e. cotton yarn, linen, jute & man-made

Derivatives of plain weave

Matt/ Basket/ Hopsack weave

Regular warp rib

Rgular weft rib

Irregular warp rib

Irregular weft rib

Classification of plain cloth

Warp face cloth

Weft face cloth

Approximately squared cloth

Approximately squared cloth

Warp faced fabric

Weft faced fabric

It Produces a rib or cord effect on weft way direction.

Weft rib weave

mate less fabric.

& weft way direction.

These weaves are also variously known as hopsack or

basket weaves. The matt rib structures result from

Ornamentation of plain cloth

By using different twisted yarn, such as hard

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