DYEING OF BLENDS

Submitted ToSubmitted ByMrs.

Mehakdeep Duggal
BSC F.D. 2

INTRODUCTION
BLENDING:

Blending is the combining of different fibres together intimately to achieve a

desired product characteristic. Blends can influence colouring, strength,
softness, absorbency, ease of washing, resistance to wrinkling, ease of
spinning, cost, etc.

Advantages of Blending:

When two different types of fibres are blended, the properties of these two
different fibres are synergised. For instance, in the blend of cotton and
polyester, cotton provides the absorbency and polyester provides the strength.

Blending is done to produce a fabric, which is economical by combining

the aesthetic comfort properties of the natural fibres with the easy care and
strength properties of synthetic fibers.

Blending also helps to provide the fabrics light weight with all desirable
characteristics.Improving spinning, weaving and finishing efficiency and the
uniformity of product.

THERE ARE DIFFERENT TYPES OF DYES FOR DYEING TEXTILE GOODS.

THESE DYES HAVE DIFFERENT NATURE IN FIBER. IT DEPENDS ON
FIBER CHARACTERISTICS. APPLICATION OF DYES IN DIFFERENT
FIBERS ARE
BELOW: Application
Name ofGIVEN
Dyes

Acid dye

Man made fiber (Nylon),

Natural fiber (Silk, Wool)

Direct Dye

Man made fiber (Viscose),

Natural fiber (Cotton)

Vat dye

Man made fiber (Viscose),

Natural fiber (Cotton, Silk, Wool)

Disperse dye

Nylon, Polyester, Acrylic, Tri-acetate, Di-acetate

Basic dye

Jute, Acrylic

Reactive dye

Cotton, Wool, Silk, Viscose, Nylon

Sulfur dye

Cotton, Viscose

Mordant dye

Cotton, Wool, Silk

Pigment

Cotton, Man made fiber

Mineral

Cotton, Wool, Silk

Azoic dye

Cotton, Viscose

Aniline Black

Cotton

Rapid and Rapidson dye

Cotton

Onium dye

Cotton, Jute

Fibers are mixed together to generate a fabric with improved

properties or to blend a less expensive fiber with a more expensive
one to obtain a compromise between price and performance.
When more than two or more different fibers are mixed intimately
in a yarn and that yarn is used to make a fabric, the resulting
mixture is referred to as a blend.
Blends of polyester and cotton fibres have become very important
to the textile industry.

 When fabrics are made from mixtures of fibers, four different types of
dyeing effects may be achieved :1. Solid dyeing - both fibers are dyed the same hue and to the same
depth.
2. Reservation - one fiber remains undyed.
3. Tone-on-tone - one fiber is dyed a deeper shade than the other.
4. Cross dyeing - each fiber is dyed a different and contrasting hue.
. Cotton gives the aesthetic and comfort properties demanded by
consumers, while the polyester component adds to performance
properties.
. Each fiber may be dyed the same colour, or they may be dyed different
hues. Polyester has no affinity for most of the classes of dyes used to
colour cotton, the cellulose being only stained by disperse dyes.

SOME REASONS FOR BLENDING OF FIBERS

A. TO FACILITATE PROCESSING
B. TO IMPROVE PROPERTIES
1. ABRASIVE RESISTANCE
2. STRENGTH
3. ABSQRBENCY - COMFORT
4. ADD BULK AND WARMTH
5. HAND
6. DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
7. RESISTANCE TO WRINKLING
8. PERMANENT PLEATS OR CREASES
C . TO PRODUCE MULT I -COLORED FABR I CS
D. TO REDUCE COST I TO INCREASE COST

TYPES OF BLENDS

FIBER BLENDS

DIFFERENT FIBER TYPES BLENDED INTO A SINGLE YARN

COMBINATION FIBER BLENDS

A. YARNS OF DIFFERENT FIBER TYPES WOVEN, KNITTED, OR BONDED INTO FABRIC
B. SINGLE YARNS COMPOSED OF

BLENDED FIBERS PLIED TOGETHER

WAYS TO BLEND FIBERS:

o

OPENING - CARDING - DRAWING

COMBING SLIVER

RING SPINNING

PLYING YARNS

CORE-SPUN YARNS

FIBER MATS (NON-WOVENS)

Filament Yarns

vs.

Staple Yarns

DYEING OF BLENDS

CROSS-DYEING

YARN DYED FABRICS

UNION DYEING
A. DIFFERENT FIBER TYPES
B. DIFFERENT BRAND NAME FIBERS

RESERVE DYEING
A. ONE BATH DYEINGS
B. MULTIPLE BATH DYEINGS

TONE ON TONE DYEING

MULTI-LEVEL DYEING

STAINING

IMPORTANT FACTORS IN DYEING BLENDS

DYE SELECTIVITY

DYEBATH CONDITIONS
A. DYE AUXILLARIES
B. DYEBATH TEMPERATURE
C. STRESS ON FABRIC

DYESTUFF BLOCKAGE
A. RETARDING AGENTS
B. DYE'- MOLECULE BLOCKAGE

DETERMINATION OF DYEING ON VARIOUS FIBERS %

A. LEACH OUTS
B. RIDERS

IMPORTANT CONSIDERATIONS IN DYEING

BLENDS

PREPARATION
-EFFECT EACH OPERATION COULD HAVE ON THE

DIFFERENT FIBERS IN THE BLEND.

A.

SINGEING - NATURAL FIBERS vs, SYNTHETICS

B.

DESIZING - SIZES NORMALLY USED CAN'DIFFER

C.

SCOURING - EFFECTS OF DETERGENT AND ALKALI

D.

BLEACHING - CHOICE OF BLEACH ADVERSE EFFECTS OF

BLEACHING

E.

MERCERIZATION CAUSTIZATION EFFECTS OF SODIUM

HYDROXIDE

F.

HEAT SETTING - EFFECTS OF HIGH TEMPERATURE DRY OR WET HEAT

CLASSIFICATION OF THE METHODS FOR DYEING

OF P/C BLEND

Exhaust dyeing method or batch dyeing methodThis is again classified in the following three groupsa. Two bath dyeing
b. One bath one step dyeing
c. One bath two step dyeing method

Thermosol Dyeing method It is again classified in to two groupsa. Continuous dyeingb. Pad batch process (semi-continuous)

DYEING OF POLYESTER BLENDS

Limited manufacture in India

Most popular blend :55/45 PET/Wool
Other blend ratios : 70/30 , 20/80

55:45 blend warp and weft blended yarn

Polyester Rich Blend: 70/30 (textured 100% PET warp & 55:45 blended weft)
Wool Rich Blend : 20/80 (with 55:45 blended weft and 100% wool weft)

PRETREATMENT:

Typical process sequence:

1)

Grey inspection

2)

Stain removal

3)

Scouring

4)

Wool presetting(crabbing)

6)

Heat set

5)

Dry

8)

Brushing, Cropping

7)

Dye

10)

Steam or Damp

9)

Singeing

11)

Decatising and Pressing

DYEING METHODS

One bath method :

* simultaneous dyeing of PET and wool with disperse and

wool dyes
* common method for pale and medium depths of shade
* economical,
* minimum tendering of wool

Two bath method:

* mainly for navy and black shades

* no particular advantage over one-bath method

DYEING OF A COTTON/POLYESTER BLEND WITH

REACTIVE AND DISPERSE
DYES:The Thermosol process for dyeing polyester was developed by the DuPont company
for the continuous dyeing of polyester fabrics. This single development allowed the rapid
growth of polyester fabrics in the early to mid-fifties. The process involves padding on
the disperse dye together with auxiliaries that minimize migration, drying, then fixing the
dye in the polyester by dry heating to a high temperatures about 190 205C. During
this process the fibre molecular chains open up at these elevated temperatures and the
dispersed dyes vaporize and diffuse into the polymer. On cooling, the dyes are trapped
within the fibre yielding coloured fibres that have good fastness properties.
Proper preparation of the fabric is important in a continuous dyeing operation. For
cotton/polyester, the fabric must be absolutely clean, since residual oils or dirt will be set
into the fabric during the Thermosol treatment. The fabric must also wet out
instantaneously and uniformly to insure adequate absorption during the padding
operation.

DYES FOR PET AND WOOL

Disperse dyes (DD):
High temperature not suitable
Low energy DDs-low sublimation fastness
Medium energy dyes pale shades or dyeing at
1060C
High energy dyes- not suitable but can be used for
max. colour yield and fastness is required applied to
1300C prior to PET/wool blending pH : 4.5 5.5.

WOOL DYES:

Acid and premetallised dyes most suitable

No staining on PET
Build up ~40 - 500C
Complete exhaustion at boil in 30 min.
Dye selection is not critical
Wet fastness is important : 1:2 metal complex
preferred
Dyeing pH: 4.5 5.5

MIXTURE DYES:
Disperse/wool dye mixture- available since 1985, suitable for 55:45
PET/wool
Advantages:
*simplified selection, reduced weighing/handling of dyes
* good reproducibility (from batch to batch or lab.to bulk scale)
* tone and tone dyeings as a result of good compatibility of
acid and disperse dyes within each mixture
*suitable for computer colour matching
Single dye class: e.g. reactive disperse dyes
Developed dyes show poor light fastness, not commercially suitable

MINIMISATION OF DAMAGE TO
WOOL
The advantages of high temperature dyeing above
1100C are

Fast deep shades

Shorter leveling time
Better levelling
Less staining of wool

Disadvantages
Wool degradation reduction in strength, elongation,
abrasion resistance, yellowing

 Therefore, to protect the wool component

during high temperature dyeing,
Most common agent HCHO (5% owf) allows
dyeing at
1050C for 4 hrs
1100C for 3 hrs
1150C for2 hrs
1200C for 1 hr
pH: 3.5-4.5

DYEING PROCEDURE

Set bath with auxuliaries

Preheat 10 20 min at 50 -70 0C
Add disperse and dissolved acid dye
Treat for 10 min
Raise temperature to boil or 103-106 0C 30-45 min
Dye for 1-2hrs depending on depth of shade
Cool, cold and hot rinse shading 80 -100 0C

ONE-BATH DYEING

Improve dye exhaustion

Minimise wool staining
Wool protecting agent is necessary
Recipe:
X% disperse dye
Y% acid / metal complex dye
3-5% HCHO (30%)
1-2% dispersing agent , pH : 5 -6 with HAC

Pretreat with auxiliary at 50-60 0C

Add disperse and acid dyes
Treat for 10 min
Raise temperature to 110 0C/1200C in 45 min
Dye for 30 60 min

AFTER TREATMENT
Staining of wool with disperse dyes cannot be
avoided even if the process is carried out with most
siutable dyes under the most favourable conditions
Disperse staining on wool poor fastness must be
removed completely
One-bath method reduction clear is not possible
After wash: 1-2 gpl non-ionic detergent, pH 5-6 with
HAC, 20-30 min at 600C, good rinse
With deep shades, repeat the above process

TWO BATH PROCESS

Used for deep shades -particularly navy and black
Dye polyester component with
X % disperse dye
Y% carrier
1 2% dispersing agent
pH 5-6 with HAC
Maximum temperature :103 -106 0C or boil
Cold rinse

REDUCTION CLEARING:
3 gpl hydrose
0.5- 1 ml/l ammonia(25%)
0.5-1 gpl non-ionic emulsifying agent
For 30 min at 45 -500C
Good rinse, acidify with HAC
Dyeing of wool component

THERMOSOL DYEING

Not common
Can be used for coloration of PET component only
Wool component is dyed seperately ( detail sin page 256-257)
Dry heat treatment:
190 -2000C for 45 60 secs
Not harmful to wool except slight yellowing
Less wool staining

CORRECTION OF FAULTY DYEINGS

Faulty shades can be levelled or partially stripped with
X gpl carrier
2-4% levelling agent for wool
1 2% emulsifying agent
pH 5-6% with HAC
Treatment at boil for 1 2 hrs or 103 -106 0C for 1 1 hrs
If only shade on wool is to be corrected, carrier is not
necessary

CONCLUSIONS
One bath dyeing of Polyester/cotton blend fabrics with
reactive disperse dyes in successful with SC-CO2 .The
optimum dyeing temperature and pressure are about 393 K
and 20 Mpa respectively . The dyeing behavior of
Polyester/cotton blends is strongly affected by the dyeing
characteristics of the cotton side.The colour fastness of dyed
fabric is almost satisfactory ,but colour fastness become weak
with a decrease in the dyeing temperature. In addition ,the
colour fastness of fabric dyed in SC-CO2 is better than that
with that the thermosol dyeing.
Treatment with chitin pretreatment give the good dry rubbing
and washing fastness . The alkaline pretreatment affects the
greater adhesion of chitin to the surface of polyester fibres,
which is manifested by the greater colour strength
.Pretreatment in an alkaline solution containing 10 g/l NAOH is
permitted .The greater amount of chitin used ,the worse
affects are observed .

The same effect is observed in case of

azeeotropic mixture on the dyeing behaviour of
80/20 cotton blends .As the pretreatment time
increased dye uptake was found increase . The
slight improvement in fastness properties was
also found

Dyeing of PET/COTTON blend with disperse dye

containing the fluorosulfonyl group under high
temp. dyeing conditions are feasible .Its
decrease our labour cost, chemicals, energy.