Warm Up 2/27/08

Which of the following is a tidal current?

a. spring tide
c. neap tide
b. flood tide
d. both a and c
2) The smallest daily tidal range occurs during
which type of tide?
a. spring tide
c. neap tide
b. flood tide
d. ebb tide
3) Which tidal pattern has two high tides and two
low tides each day?
a. semidiurnal c. mixed
b. bidiurnal
d. diurnal
Answers: 1) d. 2) c. 3) a.
1)

Shoreline Features and

Processes
Chapter 16, Section 3

Forces Acting on the Shoreline

Waves along the shoreline are constantly
eroding, transporting, and depositing
sediment. Many types of shoreline
features can result from this activity
The impact of large, high-energy waves
against the shore can be very violent
Cracks and crevices quickly open in the
cliffs, and water is forced through
Abrasion is the sawing and grinding action
of rock fragments in the water
Waves are also very effective at breaking
down rock material and supplying sand to
beaches

Impact and Abrasion

 Wave

Wave Refraction

Refraction the bending of

waves
Most waves move towards the shore
at an angle
When the waves get closer, they are
refracted, bent, so that they come
into the shore parallel
Because of refraction, wave energy is
concentrated against the sides and
ends of headlands that project into
the water, whereas wave action is
weakened in bays

Wave Refraction

Concept Check
What

is wave refraction?
The bending of waves

Longshore Transport
Longshore Current flow parallel to
shore and move large quantities of
sediment along the shore
Turbulence allows long shore currents to
easily move fine suspended sand and to
roll larger sand and gravel particles along
the bottom
Longshore currents can change directions
because the direction that waves approach
the beach changes with the seasons
Longshore currents generally flow
southwards along the Western coast of
North America

Longshore Currents

Concept Check
What

causes longshore currents?

The angling of waves in the surf zone

Erosional Features

Shoreline features that originate primarily from the

work of erosion are called erosional features
Wave erosion is steadily wearing away the California
coast
The cliffs along our coast are created when tectonic
processes push the land up at the same time the ocean
waves crash against them, eroding them away
Wave-cut cliffs result from the cutting action of the surf
against the base of coastal land
As erosion continues, it will reduce the cliffs into a
bench-like feature, called a platform
The surf can erode headlands, creating sea caves, when
two sea caves meet, a sea arch will form
Arches all eventually collapse into sea stacks

Wave-Cut Cliffs

Sea Arches

Concept Check
How

does a sea arch form?

Sea arches form when two caves
(eroded by surf) on opposite sides of
a headland unite.

Depositional Features

Sediment that is transported along the shore and

deposited in areas where energy is low produce
depositional features
Where longshore currents and other surf zone
currents are active, several features related to the
movement of sediment along the shore may develop
A spit is an elongated ridge of sand that projects
from the land into the mouth of an adjacent bay
The term baymouth bar is used when a sandbar
completely crosses a bay, cutting it off from the
ocean
A tombolo is a ridge of sand that connects an island
to the mainland or another island
Barrier Islands narrow sandbars parallel to, but
separated from the coast

Spit, Bars, and Tombolos

Barrier Islands

Concept Check
What

is a barrier island?
A barrier island is a narrow sandbar
parallel to, but separate from, the
coast at distances from 3 to 30 km
offshore.

Evolution of Shoreline Features

Stabilizing the Shore

Shorelines are among Earths most dynamic

places and are changing constantly
Erosion along the coast causes significant
property damage every year
Groins, breakwaters, and seawalls are some
structures built to protect a coast from erosion or
to prevent the movement of sand along a beach
A groin is a barrier on the beach to trap sand that
is moving parallel to the shore
A breakwater protects ships from the force of
large breaking waves as they pull out of harbor
A seawall is built parallel to shore and protects
the shore from waves
Beach nourishment is the addition of large
quantities of sand to the beach system

Protective Structures

Assignment (Due 2/28/08)

Read Chapter 16 (pg. 448-467)
Do Chapter 16 Assessment #1-30 (pg. 471472)
Study for the UNIT TEST!!!

Cool Down
1)

2)

3)

What structures can be built to

protect a shoreline?
Groins, breakwaters, and seawalls
How can beach nourishment be
helpful? How can it be harmful?
Beach quality and storm protection
are improved. The process is
expensive and can harm local
marine life.
What is one thing new you learned
today? Explain.