BUILDING CONSTRUCTION

DESIGN

DEVADIGA SHREYA
CODE - 4514
KADRI SAMIUL
CODE - 0714

A Power Point presentation on :FALSE CEILING

WHAT IS A FALSE CEILING

?
A FALSE CEILING is a secondary ceiling,
hung below the main (structural) ceiling. It
may also be referred to as a drop ceiling,
T-bar ceiling, dropped ceiling, suspended
ceiling, grid ceiling, drop in ceiling, drop
out ceiling, or ceiling tiles and is a staple
of modern construction and architecture in
both residential and commercial
applications.

What are the main design

objectives?
Effective building design requires
balancing multiple objectives:
aesthetics, acoustics, environmental
factors, and integration with the
building's infrastructurenot to
mention cost of construction as well
as long-term operation costs.

Aesthetics
Modern dropped ceilings were initially
created to hide the building infrastructure,
including piping, wiring, and/or ductwork, by
creating a plenum space above the dropped
ceiling, while allowing access for repairs and
inspections. Drop ceilings may also be used
to hide problems, such as structural
damage. Further, drop out ceilings can also
conceal the sprinkler systems while still
providing full fire suppression functionality.

For many years, dropped ceilings were

made of basic white tiles, but modern
innovations now offer a plethora of options
in sizes, colours, materials (including retro
designs and faux leather, wood, or metal),
visual effects and shapes, patterns, and
textures as well as support systems and
ways to access the plenum. Custom runs of
specialty ceiling tiles can be done at
relatively low cost compared with the past.

Acoustics
Acoustic balance and control was
another early objective of dropped
ceilings. A noisy room can over
stimulate occupants, while a too
quiet interior may seem dull and
uninviting.

The acoustic performance of

suspended ceilings has improved
dramatically over the years, with
enhanced sound absorption and
attenuation. This is sometimes
achieved by adding insulation known
as Sound Attenuation Batts (SABs),
more commonly referred to as
"sound batts", above the panels to
help deaden sounds and keep
adjacent rooms quieter.


Indoor environmental quality

Indoor environmental quality

includes ventilation, VOC emissions,
lighting and thermal system control,
thermal comfort, use of daylight for
natural illumination, acoustics, and
optimization of outdoor view
availability.

Fitting a false ceiling

A false ceiling has a number of

advantages. You can make a room
or hall more attractive, or you can
use it to hide roofing beams or an
unfinished ceiling. You can fit
recessed spotlights in the ceiling,
and conceal power cables and
pipes. Also important: a false
ceiling can give you big savings in
your heating costs.

Option 1:
Fixing the framework
DIRECTLY to the beams or
plastered ceiling

Start by fixing a wooden framework

to act as supporting structure directly
to the existing ceiling or roofing
beams. Make sure you use the right
plugs. Note that the roofing beams
may be of different heights. Fix the
wooden supports with a spacing of 40
cm. The ceiling panels are then
screwed to the wooden framework.

Option 2:
Fixing a SUSPENDED framework
to a plastered ceiling

As in step 1, fix the supports to

the ceiling with equal spacings of
40 cm. Screw the supports to the
existing ceiling using screws and
plugs. Make sure you fit all the
supports at the same height.

Fixing vertical struts to the supports

The next step is to decide on the height of

the new ceiling. Measure the desired
height from the floor and mark it off at the
4 corners. You can then use struts of the
right length to fix the false ceiling panels.
Fix the struts to the supports on the
ceiling. The insulation panels are usually
60 cm wide. So if you also fix the struts
with a 60 cm spacing, the insulation
panels will fit exactly between them. That
means you wont need to cut the panels to
size.

Fixing the wall supports

and framework members


Use a cord and a spirit level to mark off
the positions of the wall supports on the
wall. A laser level is a good solution if
you have one. The underside of the
framework will then be horizontal. Fix
the wall supports to the wall along the
marked lines with plugs and screws, and
then fix the framework members all at
the same height to the bottoms of the
struts.

Apply the insulation

The insulation panels are then fitted

over the framework members. If you
have fitted the struts with spacings of
60cm you will be able to fix the
insulation panels without the need to
cut them to size. Don't forget to apply
insulation between the vertical struts to
create an uninterrupted insulation
layer. Always wear gloves, safety
glasses, a dust mask and protective
clothing when working with insulating
materials.

Fix the first row of ceiling panels

Screw the first ceiling panel to the left

side against the wall, using 25 mm
plasterboard screws with a spacing
between screws of 20 cm. Allow an 8
mm expansion gap between the panel
and the wall. This gap is later covered
with a finishing strip. Fit the next ceiling
panel with the short side against the
short side of the first panel, followed by
the long side.

Cutting panels to length

At the end of the row, measure the

required length and mark this of on a
new panel. Use the remaining part of
the panel to start the next row. If start
each row with a panel of the same
length you will have a regular
appearance of the finished ceiling. To
cut a panel to length, score it on the
visible surface with a hobby knife and
the break it off using a wooden strip or
plank for support. You can then cut
through the cardboard backing.

Finishing the joints

If you want to finish the joints

between the ceiling panels, make
sure they are clean and dust free.
Then fill the gaps with grouting
paste and a putty knife. After drying
for 24 hours, apply a second layer if
necessary and sand smooth after
drying. To prevent later cracking of
the joints, you can use flexible mesh
fixed in place with the grouting
paste.

Edging profile

To finish the outer edges of the false

ceiling neatly, fix the finishing strips in
place with construction adhesive. Put a
few spots of adhesive on the finishing
strip, press it into place, remove it
again immediately, and after waiting
for 5 minutes tap it firmly into place.
For a neat finish in the corners you can
cut the ends of the finishing strips at
45.

How to Change a Drop Ceiling

to a Regular Ceiling :-

Remove the Drop

Ceiling
1) Lift up a tile and tilt it slightly to lower
it from the drop ceiling grid. Climb up the
ladder until you can see over the drop
ceiling. Quickly inspect the condition of
the drop ceiling and the ceiling above it.
Older drop ceilings may be coated with
dust, rodent droppings or nests, or old
electrical wiring, so be careful when
removing dirty tiles. At this time you must
determine if you can repair the original
ceiling or need to install new drywall.

2) Remove the other ceiling

tiles. Leave the ceiling lights
in place until all the tiles are
removed.


3) Turn off the power to the room
at the circuit breaker service panel
by switching the breaker toggle to
the "off" position.

4) Untwist the wire nuts to one of the

ceiling lights, taking care not to touch the
bare wires with your hands. Place the ends
of the voltage tester on the black and white
wires that protrude from the ceiling to test
for electricity. The voltage tester light should
remain off. If the light shines, the electricity
is on in the room. Go to the circuit breaker
service panel and determine the correct
breaker for the room by turning off breakers
one at a time and retesting the voltage.
Consult with a licensed professional if you
cannot locate the correct circuit.

5) Unscrew the light from the ceiling.

Remove all other light fixtures from the
ceiling. Gently tuck the electrical wires
into the ceiling cavity for use later
when you install new lighting.

6) Remove the metal framing of the

drop ceiling system. Depending on the
system, you may need to snip or twist
off wires suspended from the ceiling
and unscrew the angle pieces from the
perimeter walls of the room.

Repair the Original Ceiling

1) Repair the damaged ceiling, if

possible. If the original drywall or
plaster sags, screw plaster washers
or replace sections of drywall.

2) Scrape any debris from the nail and

screw holes that held the drop ceiling
system. Scrape to smooth the surround
area so that no bulges or loose debris
hangs from the holes.

3) Patch the holes with joint compound.

For large holes, secure a section of
drywall mesh tape over the hole before
applying joint compound. Allow the
compound to dry.

4) Sand the compound smooth. Apply

another layer of joint compound with
your drywall knife, feathering out the
edges around the area. Allow to dry,
then sand smooth.

Rebuild the New Ceiling

1) Place a board of drywall on the

drywall lift and spin the lift's wheel to
raise the board to a corner in the
ceiling. Make sure that one end of the
panel abuts the corner of the room and
the other breaks over the center of the
ceiling joist. If it does not, lower the
drywall board, measure the length to
the center of the nearest joist and cut
the board. Raise the board into position.

2) Screw the board to the ceiling joists

with one drywall screw every 8 to 12
inches. When you drill in the screw,
drive it so that the head presses just
below the surface of the paper, creating
a dimple. If you drive too hard, the
screw head will pop the paper's surface
and you must insert another screw next
to it.

3) Measure, cut and lift your next board.

To cut drywall, score the measuring line
several times with the utility knife to
break the surface of the paper. Press
down the drywall section on the line and
the section will snap, leaving a clean
cut. Ensure that the long ends of the
drywall board rest on joists. Screw them
into place.

4) Continue installing additional

boards. Stagger the drywall board
seams so that the ends of the next row
of drywall do not line up with the ends
of the first row, and so on. This creates
a more seamless look on the ceiling
and prevent a bumpy, jagged
appearance.

5) Cut away round portions of the

drywall to accommodate the lighting
boxes. Measure the distance from the
lighting fixture and transfer the
measurement onto the drywall. Cut a
hole with a drywall saw or drywall
cutout tool. Insert the extension box
into the electrical light box and screw it
into place. Pull out the electrical wiring
so that the wires are suspended into
the room for later lighting installation.

6)
Cover the seams between the
boards with mesh tape. Apply a layer
of joint compound over the seams and
all screws with the 4-inch drywall knife.
Allow to dry.

7)
Apply another layer of joint
compound to the seams and screws,
feathering out the edges. Allow to dry.
Sand smooth with the sanding sponge.

8)
Apply a third layer of joint
compound with the 6-inch knife,
further
feathering out the edges. Allow to dry.
Sand smooth.

FALSE CEILING RATES

SOME BEAUTIFUL FALSE CEILING

DESIGNS

THANK YOU