Professional Documents
Culture Documents
India
Made by
Ritwik Trivedi
Dhotis
Dhotis are produced
on handlooms in
different widths and
lengths, and using
different counts of
cotton yarns in wrap
and weft.
In Northern India,
these sashes are
almost always made
of wool and are of
different degrees of
fineness.
Floor Covering
The woolen pile carpet,
began in India in the
16th century. Though its
origin may have been
Persian, once the Indian
weavers picked up the
craft, they made it their
own.
A definite feature of the
Indian carpet is its
specified border that is,
framing the borderline
with different patterns to
match similar patterns
to have a symmetry and
balance in the middle of
Lungis
Lungi is a traditional
handloom item exported
mainly to markets like
Singapore, Malaysia and
Middle East Countries.
Lungis and other similar
varieties like kailis,
sarongs, and comboys
are generally woven in 4
yards long pieces,
which are joined to make
a length of 18 yards.
Lungis
The principal handloom production
centers for lungi production are
Bhuvangiri, Naduveerapatti,
Kurinchipadi, kadayanallur,
Anakaputher, Gudiyatham in Tamil
Nadu and Ammavari kuppam,
Yemminaganur, Visakapatnam
Vizianagaram, Nedunur in Andhra
Pradesh and few handloom centres
in Uttar Pradesh.
Saris
The birth of the art of weaving was first in India. In
ancient times the Indian fabrics were famous all over
the world.
The cloth was studded with pearls and jewels raising
the value of these fabrics to million pieces of silver.
For many centuries it has been the custom for Hindu
women to wear saris with border and pallavs on
auspicious occasions. The border and pallav have
been specific and main attraction of saris.
Balarampuram saris
Dhacai Saris
The fabric is generally grey cotton
embellished with bluish back
designs and sometimes in
brilliantly coloured cottons or gold
and silver threads when the fabric
is intended for a sari, ends may
have large bold motifs in the
corners mostly variations of
corner patterns.
The field of sari will have small
sprays of flowers either all over or
arranged in a diagonal patterns.
In the scattered patterns the sari
is called Butidar but fercha if
the sprays from a regular net
work, the Jamdani is known as
Kanjeewaram Saris
Kanjeewaram saris are always
woven with full bright colours and
shot effects with an effective
display of zari thread in borders
and pallavs, and are nowadays
very popular throughout India. A
special feature of this
Kanjeewaram sari is the contrast
pallav. The expression
kanjjeewaram saris indicates a
particulars level of excellence in
the pattern texture and colour of
saris.
Patola Saris
Patolas from Gujarat considered to be one of the most amazingly beautiful
saris that have been produced anywhere in the world. It was this cloth which
was taken by Indian merchants of Java and Bali in the middle where it was
honoured as a special bridal garment on account of its exquisite floral
designs and beauty. Patola is seen in its best in the silk wedding sari of the
women of Kathiawad. The fabric is woven with warp and weft that have been
separately dyed by a special colouring process known as "Bandhana" or knot
tying and dyeing. After silk warp has been dyed in the lightest colour, the dye
keeping in mind the designs to be produced, draws across it some lines in
pencil at measured distances.
The marked spaces are tied tightly with waxed cotton thread through which
the dye does not penetrate. The design is already pre-planned and
accordingly the design is further dyed with the second colour. This process is
repeated and continued till the darkest shade is reached.
The weft is also treated in the same manner. Then the threads are stretched
and arranged on the loom by the weaver and woven into artistic patterns of
elephants, peacock, parrots, flowering shrubs in red, white or yellow on a
Santipur Saris
Assam is famous for silk and is noted for silk
sari production. Santipur, Rajbalkat,
Autpur, Vishnipur and Tangoil are important
handloom sari production
centres in West Bengal. Santipur saris are
mostly of above 80s cotton count and are
with coloured strips, checks or spots on a grey
or white (bleached) background.
Sometimes a coloured weft is also used with a
grey warp. Silk yarn and gold and silver
threads are used for dobby and jacquard
borders in the finer types of saris.
The borders extend from 2" to 6" in width.
Tangail Saris
Tangail saris are usually
made from cotton yarns of
80s to 120s count and in the
olden days even up to 200s.
The borders are about 3 to
4 in width, for which
artificial silk and gold and
silver laces are used. Saris
with coloured wrap and
coloured weft are not
uncommon.
Baluchari Saris
Baluchar is a silk weaving centre
in Murshidabad, West Bengal.
Baluchar was famous for its silk
brocade saris. The designs in the
pallav are outstanding. Motifs
include Indian courtiers and
European officials of the 17th and
18th centuries shown smoking
hookah, riding on horse back etc.
These saris are woven in Charka
silk. No gold is use. The colours
are deep maroon, madder purple
and turmeric yellow.
Chanderi Saris
In these saris gold ornaments enamelled in soft muted tones are
woven into the pallav, border, and body of the sari. The designs forms
are linear and bear close resemblance to the marble jewel inlay work
found in Mughul architecture and artefacts. This chanderi has for long
been the reputed production centre of superfine saris, whose border,
pallav and traditional buttis have won admiration of fashionable
women all over the country.
Most chanderi saris are of silk warp and sometimes woven with fine
raw warp and cotton weft. The special feature of these saris is broad
cross border or pallav which is woven in cotton, silk, zari with floral
and other stylized ornamentation which require special traditional
harness known as Nakshas.
A cascade of chanderi border and pallavs contains small mango motifs
which occur in concert with Bugadi motif or earring in the body of
the sari. In some borders a fine use has been made of the fish scales
or khavali as motifs. The chanderi sari is one of the finest products
of the handloom weavers.
Kancheepuram Saris
Kancheepuram, the golden city of thousand temples, was
successively the capital of the Pallavas, Chholas and Rajas of
Vijaynagar. The tradition of weaving in this city is difficult to
trace but in the Pallav period there were weavers in the
capital city specially employed to weave the cotton fabrics
for the royal family. Today Kancheepuram is almost a
weaver' city and its name has been made famous all over
India because of saris. These saris have broad pallavas
having all religions motifs and temple designs and are worn
on festive occasion.
The weavers came from Saurashtra or Mudaliar community
weaving their traditional art. The main raw materials used
are silk and gold thread. The gold thread comes from Surat.
Silver thread is coated with gold and the price of the thread
depends upon the price of gold and silver. The raw silk that
comes from Mysore, is pale and dull in colour being
contaminated with a yellowish gum. The yellow impurity has
to be removed before the silk is dyed and this process is
called de-gumming.
Pathani Saris
Paithani saris of Maharashtra are
highly stylized patterns of swans,
parrots, peacocks with a golden
tissue of pallav. The sari that is
renowned and famous for its
workmanship and wonderful creation
well known from generations is the
Paithan sari from Maharashtra. This
has been famous from Dwapar era.
These saris are done in hand process
through out and are not woven on
looms. The pallav and border are
woven with gold and silver either
mixed or individually. The main
feature of these saris is different
borders with an elaborate pallav.
Poona Saris
Handloom woven saris of Poona are
quite famous for their superior quality
of fabric construction, constant inflow
of new designs and for their
reasonable ranges. Today the industry
of weaving is flowing. Workshops are
found in Gunjpeth, Bhawanipeth and
the other areas of the old city of
Poona. Among the master craftsmen
M/s Kunden, M/s Methapelli and
Vilasagar of Padmashali caste are
there. Padma means lotus and Shali
means weaver. New poolrooms are
fast replacing handloom and the
industry is flourishing. Almost every
instrument is mechanised.
Tanchoi Saris
This saris is famous for delicate and
tiny weaving patterns all over. This is
the only sari which has the spots all
over and is warn with double colour
warp. It is said that three Paru
brothers had learnt this art from Choi
from China. As these saris had some
Chinese influence in designs and
patterns they were known as Tanchoi
as these three brothers had claimed
this art from Choi from China. The
main Character of these Tanchoi saris
having their background in satin
finish and the speciality of these
saris, the patterns being small flying
birds, small arcs of flowers, pairs of
peacocks and parrots in swing. The
Tanchoi from Gujarat has a Chinese
Varanasi Saris
Varanasi or Kashi has an ancient history of textile designing. The
most exquisite brocades in silk and gold are woven by the
weavers on silk pit loom. The weavers of Varanasi are best
known for their skill in brocade weaving and known as Kinkhabs.
There are many exquisite designs in this variety and it is even
impossible to copy or imitate the saris as the loom is very
intricate in construction.
The designs are translated by "Naksha Bandas" on to frames or
Kakshas. The Naksha is tied to the loom. At times, more than six
shuttles are used to get multi-colours in 'buttas' ornaments used
in the body of sari. There are some famous brocade saris
showing the cowherd god Krishna and his cow and another
playing on flute. Varanasi weavers have re-oriented this to bring
out a fine cutwork pattern.
In Ajanta frescoes similar designs are shown and contain all over
buttas woven with gold thread. In some saris designs human
figures land animals motifs are used. This delicate work of
Kinkhab saris is famous all over the world. Some of the patterns
like peacocks, parrots, decorative leaves and flowers are used as
corner designs.
Applique Work
Brocade
There are two kinds of brocade, cotton
brocade and zari brocade. In brocade, the
warp and the weft are supplemented by
special threads in gold, silver or silk.
These form the pattern when weaving and
also determine the nature of the brocade.
Cotton fabric is brocaded with cotton and
zari threads to create one of the most
delicate products of the loom. Another
form of brocading is created by the inlay
of white threads over an organza jail to
give an appearance of delicate filigree
patterns cut out on a sheer almost
transparent background.
In zari brocades gold and silver are used
alongwith silk threads, either as the
special warp or weft, to create glittering
raised ornamentation. The main centres of
brocading are located in Varanasi, Surat,
Chanderi, Bangalore, Kanchipuram,
Chennai, Bengal and Venkatagiri.
Phulkari
Phulkari contd..
The social-ritual significance
attached to the Phulkari art
added new dimensions to it
and elevated a mere artform to a philosophy. This
accounts for its pursuance
with great devotion,
perseverance and passion.
Embroidery thus was
perpetuated and formed a
part of social rituals and no
ceremony was perfect unless
the auspicious Phulkari,
embroidered shawls were
worn by the women.
Shawls
Towels
The towel-manufacturing sector of the
handloom industry in India has been one
of the main employers of handloom
weavers, catering to the needs of
consumers both in and outside the
country.
Handloom towels are manufactured in
different weaves; plain, honeycomb,
huck-a-back, terry pile; dosuti and
dedsuti, etc. Basically, terry towel,
which comes under the category of
made-ups, is used as a fabric for bath
towels, bathmats, car seat covers,
interlining material, base for coated
fabrics, kitchen gowns, pot holders etc.
Dobby and jacquard terry towels are
exported in substantial qualities.
Turbans
The Turbans chief
function is the
protection of the head
from the heat of the
sun.
It is usually of a fine
muslin-like texture
which when folded is
at once light, bulky
and porous thus
admirably fulfilling its
main purpose.
Turbans