R ew ork M inim ization

Presented by:
C hinky G hilothia
Saptarshi B agchi
Subhodip B asu
 O bjective


T o m inim ize the w aste of rew orking on the
m anufactured product in A B C A pparel
M anufacturing unit prim arily by instilling in them
the concept of “ R ight First T im e” quality

 Background
Source : Cost of Quality: Characteristics of the Organizations with Low, Medium and H

 Demand for higher value at lower price

 To survive, apparel manufacturers need to
improve their operations through-
1.Producing right first time quality and
2.Waste reduction
1 % defective for an organization is

100 % defective for the customer who

buys that defective product .

 Methodology
followed
1. Review of the existing quality system in the company
2. Identification of defects in the various departments by
collecting data from old records
3. Analysis of data collected in order to identify majorly
occurring defects
4. Categorization of defects
5. Development of a model Quality Inspection System
6. Implementation of check sheets to capture defects in
different departments
7. Training on concepts of quality, importance of maintaining
correct data, usage of the collected data to analyze and
solve quality issues through the tools of quality
8. Introduction of Inline Inspection on Sewing floor through
a pilot run in one line
9. Training on the Sewing floor to QC’s, supervisors and
checkers on filling in the format and on making Cause &
Effect Diagrams
10.Analysis of defects occurring in the check sheets
implemented in various departments and devising
suggestions to improve upon them
11.Spreading of Inline inspection to other lines
12.Tracking of improvements and comparing them with previous
 Review of existing
Fabric store
Shipping
Quality System
Not OK Buyer’s AQL inspection
Not OK
Fabric checking
Alter
OK Packing
OK
Laying & maker making
Not OK Final checking
Alter
Not OK
Visual inspection
Re-pressing
OK
OK
Cutting Alter Not OK Measurement check

Bundling
Not OK Pressing
Cut component check Mending OK
Not OK Finishing Initial Inspection
Spotting
OK
Ticketing Touching
Not OK Washing/ D.C.
Cutting Audit
Thread cutting
OK
OK
Stitching End-line checking

Not OK
 Identification of Defects
The reports of quality
inspections in various
departments were studied for the
period of July - December 2007.
Cutting Department
Sewing Department
 Categorisation of Defects

Sewing Defects
 These defects are usually caused by errors
arising from dysfunctioning of sewing machines.
Seaming Defects

 These defects are usually caused by errors

arising from the interaction of the operator and
machine in the handling of garment.
Placement Defects

 These defects are usually caused by errors

arising in marking and cutting as well as sewing
operations in the sewing room or a combination of
these

Sewing Department
Total pieces inspected- 30030
Defects encountered-11778
D.H.U.- 39.22
Where,
Sewing defects- 4204
Seaming defects- 6224
Placement defects-1012
Fabric defects-307
Embroidery defects-31
Stages of Development
Stage 1
Stage 2
 Reasons for selecting the
tools
Defect Frequency based

Check sheets for capturing
Rating System over Inline of end line defects
p- chart Detailed data recording
• Easy to decipher Indicative of the
• No calculations required performance
• Applicable to short  Cause & Effect Diagrams
order quantities over 5 Whys and Drill
• Instantaneous analysis down
and charts
Pareto action over
possible It provides a structured
• Histograms way to help you think
Majorly occurring defects through all possible
can be easily identified causes of a problem.
Graphical display of This helps to carry out a
defects thorough analysis of a
 situation

Development of Model
 Formats introduced in
various depts.
Cutting Audit Format
Cutting Pattern Check Format
Sewing In-line Inspection Format
Sewing End-line Inspection Format
Sewing End-line Pareto Chart Format
Sewing Cause & Effect Analysis Format
Finishing Initial Inspection Format
 Inline control system

Sample size Defective pieces State

7 greater than or equal to 4 Alert

7 3 Q1

7 2 Q2

7 1 Q3
 Style Tracking Ticket

After op. 1
1 2 3 4
After op. 2
1 2 3 4
After op. 3
1 2 3 4
After op. 4
1 2 3 4
 Styles studied –Style 1

FRONT BACK
DATE Threa Slip Brok Ropi Pucker Pinch Unev Unev Expos
Sewing Data
Label Measu Othe Total Total Total D . H . U . Percent
d stit en ng ing ing en en ed Attac remen rs Check Defec defec age
Tensi ch stit Top Raw Raw hment t out ed tive ts Defecti
on ch Stit Marg stitc Piece Piece ve
1 - Mar       4      ch  in  h   56   56
s 56
s 60 107 100
3 - Mar       6     10       4 8 42 22 28 67 52
4 - Mar             13       9 11 77 22 33 43 29
5 - Mar             2   2     4 42 5 8 19 12
6 - Mar       2           9   8 78 12 19 24 15
7 - Mar   1   6           9   6 67 16 22 33 24
8 - Mar       10           7   8 75 17 25 33 23
10 - Mar 1     1   5       4   3 70 10 14 20 14
11 - Mar   4   3 1 3 2     3   15 139 23 31 22 17
12 - Mar   9     4   2     3   5 97 17 23 24 18
13 - Mar     2 3   4           5 55 11 14 25 20
14 - Mar   5     2 1   3   3   4 116 12 18 16 10
15 - Mar   2   1 2 5 1 2   3   7 203 18 23 11 9
17 - Mar   5   1   3       3   9 151 14 21 14 9
18 - Mar       11           1   11 139 17 23 17 12
19 - Mar       20   2       3   12 207 29 37 18 14
20 - Mar       4           2   12 135 14 18 13 10
21 - Mar   4       2         1 3 87 8 10 11 9
24 - Mar   2     3         3   2 70 8 10 14 11
25 - Mar   3     2 2       2   1 94 8 10 11 9
TOTAL 1 35 2 72 14 27 30 5 2 55 70 134 2000 339 447 22 17
Cause & Effect diagram for major
occurring defects
and their implemented solutions
 Measurement out of
tolerance
COMMUNICATION MAN MACHINE

How to Puckering due to machine

Carelessness
measure is
of operator
not clear

MEASUREMENT OUT OF TOLER

Improper sweep shape after Notches not proper
panel attachment
Wrong size Wrong pattern
label attached Wrong type of
Allowance not fusing used
Puckering followed
(handling) Incompatible thread used

METHOD MATERIAL

Cause
Notches improper at pleats
Improper sweep shape after panel
attachment
Solutions Provided
Solution
Cutting Department was informed about the cause and
the reason identified was misalignment of plies during
Bottom
cutting. trimming
This beingwas done defect
a major to make the sweep
causing activity was
uniform.
asked to be checked 100% in the audit before sending
the bundles to sewing. A template was provided
against which the pieces were checked and in case of
any deviation, white pencil was used to mark pleat
positions. The template introduced is as given below.
 Puckering at waistband
MAN MACHINE
High S.P.I. causing
structural jamming
Carelessness
High pressure from
presser foot Wrong presser foot which holds
the top ply whereas bottom ply is
Unskilled fed at a faster pace
operator
Tension too tight

PUCKERING AT WAISTBAND
Top ply is pushed and
Improper pre-setting of bottom ply is held back
waistband through
thumb pressing

Different composition of
Plies in the seam not
bobbin and needle
being aligned properly
thread

METHOD MATERIAL
 Solutions Provided

Causes Solution
Improper pre- setting of Pressing was done by steam iron
waistband after thumb with a spray of starch over it. This
pressing made the handling of the waistband
easier while stitching and thus
reduced puckering at the waistband.
 Roping

MAN MACHINE

Folder not set in

Unskilled
the machine
operator

ROPING

Garment component
Improper handling
cut in bias

METHOD MATERIAL
 Solutions Provided

Causes Solution
Improper folder setting on machine The folder guide was adjusted by
shifting it 1/16th inch inside.
 Waistband extension
uneven
MAN MACHINE

Waistband edge
Unskilled operator point shape not
proper

WAISTBAND EXTENSION UNEVE

Margin not followed
while attaching
waistband
Zipper not attached
properly which led
to mismatch in left
Waistband edge not and right front of the
finished properly garment.

METHOD MATERIAL
 Solutions Provided

Causes Solution
Margin not followed while attaching The operator was instructed to be
waistband and waistband edge not careful while feeding and following
finished properly the margins strictly.
Trend chart showing reduction in
defect levels as a result
Trend chart showing reduction
in defect levels as a result
Performance of Style 1 on the
Sewing floor
 Style 2 Ellen

FRONT BACK
Cause & Effect diagram for major
occurring defects
and their implemented solutions
 Improper fly shape

MAN INSTRUCTION

Top stitch is being

Unskilled inhibited by zipper
operator lock underneath

IMPROPER FLY SHAPE

Slippery fabric

Template not given

METHOD MATERIAL
 Solutions Provided

Causes Solution
Top stitch is being inhibited by A template was provided to the
zipper lock underneath operator and the stitch was
shifted a little below, altering the
fly shape within tolerance level
 Fusing shining marks

MAN MACHINE

Wrong fusing Inappropriate

issued by pressure setting
Accessories Inappropriate
Deptt. temperature setting Fusing machine
wheel shining
marks

FUSING SHINING MARKS

Poor quality fusing

METHOD MATERIAL
 Solutions Provided

Causes Solution
Poor quality fusing used Fusing was changed.
 Trend chart showing
reduction in defect levels as
a result
Performance of Style 2 on
the Sewing floor
 Defects analysis in Finishing
dept.
Analysis of stains
 Suggestions implemented to
reduce no. of stains

Oil spots


 Application of a scrap paper under the

presser feet of sewing machines after the
day’s work so that the machines which are
leaking oil can be tracked
 Proper oiling level to be maintained in
order to prevent leakage of extra oil
 Operator to take responsibility of cleaning
the machine after lubrication
 Immediate reporting of oil leakage
 Suggestions implemented to
reduce no. of stains

Ink / chalk marks



 Usage of good quality markers, the marks of

which are easily washable
 Avoid using pencils for marking
 Usage of chalks on white and light colored
fabrics
 Suggestions implemented to
reduce no. of stains

Soil and dust



 Usage of plastic bags for storing and

transportation of pieces
 Cleaning of checking tables and machines
before the start of day’s work
 Avoid keeping garments on the floor, using
trolleys for storage
 Creating a polyethene sheet partition
between sewing and finishing departments
so that fabric dust doesn’t come over to
the finishing unit and settle down on the
washed fabric
 Suggestions implemented to
reduce no. of uncut & loose
thread

 Thread cutting operation to be carried out

after washing in order to counteract
unraveling of threads after washing
 Use of thread sucking machine to prevent
any loose threads to reach the checkpoint

Week wise summary of
occurrence of defects in
Finishing
Week wise summary of
occurrence of defects in
Finishing
 Visual communication of
performance
Cutting Display chart

Cause & Effect Diagram in Cutting

 Visual communication of
performance

Sewing trend chart

Line wise performance display chart

 Visual communication of
performance

Cause & Effect Diagram in Sewing

Visual display of styles on the shop floor

 Department wise results
Sewing, Finishing and Cutting department
Sewing Department
Finishing Department
Cutting Department
Reduction in Labor cost in
Sewing Dept.
 Quality Management
Information System developed

SEWING CUTTING
DEPARTMENT DEPARTMENT
 Conclusion

• Cutting lot failure rate reduced to zero

percent generally.
 Sewing D.H.U. reduced to approximately 14%
and percent defective to approximately
10% in the mid April from approximately
40% before commencing the project.
 In finishing, stitching D.H.U. came down to
approximately 8% from 16% as earlier,
hard stains D.H.U. reduced to approximately
8% from 16% as against earlier scenario
and uncut thread D.H.U. came down to
approximately 10% from 22% as earlier.
THANK YOU